AAPN Miami 2010

AAPN Meeting 20102 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida

© by bluesign technologies ag

Pure materials. Pure benefit.

American Apparel Producers' Network

Tuesday May 4, 2010

“Sustainability in the Textile Value Chain”



Agenda

• Introduction

• Current situation: Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems

• The bluesign® standard

» Creating transparency with input stream management

» Industry challenges – resource management

• The bluesign® tools

• End of life considerations



bluesign technologies ag

• Founded in 2000, based in St.Gallen, Switzerland (EMPA building)

• Emerged from a project with Schoeller Textil, Nike and Huntsman

• Development of “Supply Chain Tools” for the textile and related industry

• Recognized by leading chemical companies

• Supported by well-known brands/retailer

• SGS as shareholder since July 2008

The company




Vision

Textile manu-

facturers

Fibre manu-

facturers

ChemicalSuppliers

Brands & Retailers

• “One world – one standard”

• Bringing together the entire textile manufacturing chain to jointly reduce the environmental footprint of the textile and related industry

bluesign® standard



bluesign® member

» Patagonia, USA

» Mountain Equipment CO-OP, Canada

» The North Face, USA

» VAUDE Sports, Germany

» Helly Hansen, Norway

» Eileen Fisher, USA

» Haglöfs, Sweden

» Jako-O, Germany

» R.E.I., USA

» Deuter, Germany

» and others

Brands and retailers



Agenda

• Introduction









World resources

Mass flow

Glo

bal M

ass

Flo

ws

Past Present Future

unchangenddevelopment

freezing current state

corporate improvements and private economisation

factor 10

Source: „The Earth“; Prof. Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek, Factor 10 Institute, F 83660 Carnoules



What you cannot see at the end-product

Waste water treatment




Exhaust-air




Work place conditions




Waste management




Efficiency in processing




Cotton Mill

» 345 – 1050 g/kg textile

Synthetic Mill

» 110 – 820 g/kg textile

Use of chemicals




Chemicals found in the waste water after the textile finishing process

» Cotton Mill: approx. 65%

» Synthetic Mill: approx. 55%

Chemicals found in the exhaust air after the textile finishing process

» General: approx. 1 to 60%

End-of-pipe situation



Textile production chain

• Chemicals give textiles the colour and the performance that the consumer demands

• Chemicals are not “bad”, it is what you do with them that can be bad

• A “safe” chemical used badly can be many times more polluting than a classified chemical used correctly

Need for chemicals



Strict control mechanism in

the supply chain

Consumers assume that retailers are

managing allrisks (EHS, ethical)

on their behalf

Just one case of allergy or health issue in the public is enough to put the brand at risk

» Restoring a damaged reputation is extremely costly

Retailer/Brand situation

Brand

Customer loyalty• People wear it (often next to skin)• People identify with it•Emotional binding

Customer requirements•A safe product•An environmentally friendly product•A sustainable product

"Brand Protection"

Consequence



What happened in the last 20 years?



Current “ECO” approaches …

Eco labels

… the Solution?

Restricted Substance Lists (RSL)



Analyses show

» MAK-Amines

» PVC & Phthalates

» APEO

» Heavy Metals

» PFOA and PFOS

» Sensitizing dyes

» Toxic solvents

» Other toxic substances

Harmful substances in textile products!



Approach by brands and retailers

• Fact: Still a growing number of “problems”

• Sourcing in locations with unknown EHS standards

• Chemical industry can‘t handle more then 160 RSLs

• EHS data of chemical components are often not available

• In many cases, the decision maker at the manufacturing level does not possess the necessary chemical and toxicological know-how

• Uncertainty through “new” problem substances e.g. PFOA / PFOS

Unsatisfying implementation of RSLs



Material Safety Data Sheet l

Practical experience

Recent European ECLIPS study shows:

» Many MSDS are of generally poor quality

» Large amount of products and substances not classified correctly

» Much of important information not available

» Implementation of EU-Directive deficient in 69%



Material Safety Data Sheet ll


MSDS from company with high EHS-Standards:

» Written for environmental chemistry specialists and toxicologists

» Interpretation complicated

» Impossible to predict outcome for final fabric

» For decision maker in production difficult to implement



Material Safety Data Sheet lll


MSDS of insufficient quality:

» Data content does not allow prediction of impact on environment, workplace or consumer

» Often simply no data or inaccurate data available

» Critical substances listed in RSLs are often not mentioned

» Impossible to know if RSL requirements are met



Consequence


If You Don’t Know, You Don’t Care!



Agenda

• Introduction









The bluesign® standard

Environment, health & safety

• No dangerous emissions

• Consumer protection

• Workplace situation

Sustainability

• Resource productivity

• Ecological footprint

• Economic success

Worldwide industry standard



The bluesign® standard

• No compromise in functionality, quality or design!

• Solution provider

• Bottom-up concept: Developed in close cooperation with the industry

• Best Available Technology (BAT)

Set-up



work place

EHS Aspects …

… in textile production

ground-water contamination

Soilcontamination

NO x

CO2

UFP‘s

CH4

SO2

water

raw material

energy waste water

waste

products

emission

noise



Blackbox

Conventional approach

Focus on end-product

End-product

Brands need more information

Textile production chain

STOP



Blackbox

bluesign® approach

bluesign® standard

Monitoring & Optimisation

Input Process / Technology

Focus on input streams

STOP

STOP

End-productTextile production chain



Input stream management

Over 850 restricted and banned substances are monitored within the bluesign® standard

The five pillars of the bluesign® standard



Various “Restricted Substance Lists”» The North Face, Nike, Levi’s, New Balance, R.E.I., Columbia, adidas,

PUMA, H&M, C&A, M&S, IKEA, Coats and others

REACH

» Concentration of „Substances of Very High Concern“ (SVHC) in bluesign® approved fabrics is smaller than 0.1%

No reporting requirement according to article 33 REACH

Notification according to article 2 REACH does not apply

» Current list of SVHC on ECHA websitehttp://echa.europa.eu/chem_data/candidate_list_table_en.asp

The bluesign® standard in summary

Manufacturers fulfill the following guidelines



Agenda

• Introduction









Environmental Impacts …

… of the textile industryChemicals

•25% of the chemicals produced worldwide are used directly or indirectly for textiles (Source: Greenpeace Germany)

» Environmental impact

Energy

•High energy consumption in production, transport, retail and use

» Contribution to global warming (CO2)

•Growing of cotton: 4,000 – 30,000 l / kg cotton•Finishing of textiles: up to 700 l freshwater / kg textile•Waste water in production: up to 600 l / kg textile•Use of water for a large brand – 1,200 small lakes or43,000 Olympic-size swimming pools per annum» Mostly drinking water quality

Water



Resource management

Resource inflation components (rici):• Electrical Energy ric1

• Water ric2

• Base Chemicals ric3

• Additives ric4

• Calorific Energy ric5

Resource inflation components:

Resource inflation factor: rif = 2.01

rici =

1.0 1.551.0 1.771.0 2.241.0 1.671.0 2.61

BAT current

Resource inflation



0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

Energy el. Water Chemicals Auxiliaries Energy cal.

eff. valueBAT internal

Resource management

Cost inflation

rif 2.01

Cost 0.07 €/kWh 2 €/m3 0.45 €/kg 1.1 €/kg 0.015 €/kWh

cif 2.09

Cost savings 897’000 €

BAT



Examples from manufacturing sites

Resource management

Manufacturer Cost inflation factor

Savings expected Savings realized ROI of bluesign in

Knitwear EU 1.05 587.460.-€ ca. 250.000.-€ < 2 Weeks

Woven’s EU 1.06 242.587.-€ ca. 170.000.-€ < 2 Months

Woven’s Asia 1.07 354.270.-€ ca. 240.000.-€ < 1 Month

Knitwear Asia 1.07 106.260.-€ ca. 80.000.-€ < 4 Months

Knitwear Asia 1.56 565.000.-€ ca. 340.000.-€ < 2 Weeks

Woven’s Asia 1.22 486.000.-€ ca. 400.000.-€ <3 Weeks

Woven’s EU 1.09 238.000.-€ ca. 190.000.-€ 3 Months

Knitwear Asia 1.32 268.670.-€ ca. 220.000.-€ 2 Months

Woven’s EU 1.10 532.070.-€ ca. 356.000.-€ < 1 Month

Woven’s Asia 1.48 4.245.980.-€ ca.2.450.000.-€ <1 Week

Knitwear EU 1.23 328.900.-€ ca. 100.000.-€ < 2 Month



Example from manufacturing site

• Last year, bluesign technologies was able to save a total of 3120 tons of solvents thanks to various bluesign® screenings and the subsequent implementation of the bluesign® standard

» This is equivalent to a cargo train with 78 wagons

Resource savings



Everest Textile Co., Ltd.

In 2007, Everest partnered with bluesign technologies ag to meet the highest environmental, health and safety requirements for our customers and the environment. Beside the environmental aspects, also the resource analysis, which led to resource and cost saving potentials, proved to be very useful. As a result, we reduced 40% of wastewater emission and 20% of energy consumption in 2007 compared to the previous year. Our customers are impressed by our efforts and glad to have "bluesign® approved fabrics". The bluesign® standard combines eco-friendliness and economic benefits.

Ching-Lai Yeh, President, Everest Textile Co., Ltd. Taiwan

Progress after screening



Resource management

Moving toward BAT R

esou

rce I

nfl

ati

on

Facto

r (r

if)

Cost Inflation Factor (cif)

Initial-Screening

Optimum

0

1

2

3

1

1. Re-Screening

2. Re-Screening

2.5 1.75



Comparison current practice – BAT

Cotton knits (batch)

591

325

30

60.3

27.2

1.64

Worst Average BAT

Water[l/kg]

Total Energy[kWh/kg]



Agenda

• Introduction









bluesign® screening

» Rating of all components in use

» Monitoring of processes

» Data acquisition and balancing of resources

» Screening report with recommendations considering the current local situation

» Indication of resources and cost saving potentials compared to “Best Available Technology”

Full factory analysis



bluesign® screening

» Transparency in the production

» Breaking down complex EHS-issues to a manageable level

» Solution oriented

» Compliance with all common RSLs and meeting SVHC requirements

» “Insurance” for manufacturers, retailers and brands

Outcome



bluesign® applications

• An extensive knowledge base is the basis of the bluesign® standard and the applications

• Criteria define the framework of the bluesign® standard

• Risk assessments and exposure scenarios yield EHS limits

• Homologation of chemical products

Behind the scenes



bluesign® bluetool – the science gateway

• Access to an independent, expert third party to evaluate and improve your chemical products

• bluesign® approved chemical products comply with global RSLs, eco labels and legislations

• Get your bluesign® approved chemical products published on the bluesign® bluefinder

Benefits



bluesign® bluefinder – the advanced search engine

• Optimise chemical sourcing regarding consumer safety using the bluesign® bluefinder

• The bluesign® bluefinder provides comprehensive information about sustainable production

• Get extensive access to manufacturers of bluesign® approved chemicals, dyestuffs and auxiliaries

Benefits



bluesign® blueguide – the comprehensive database

• Access to a comprehensive sourcing instrument for sustainable textiles, accessories and trims

• Get extensive information about environment, health and safety issues

• Access to manufacturers of bluesign® approved fabrics

Benefits



Agenda

• Introduction









End-of-Life

Amount of waste (Switzerland)

Source: NZZ Folio

Garbage 353 kgPaper 170 kgGarden Waste 118 kgGlass 41 kgElectronic Waste 13.1 kgTextiles 6.3 kgPET 4.3 kgMetals 1.6 kgAluminium 0.7 kgBateries 0.3 kg

709 kgper person and

year

Textiles correspond to0.9 % of total waste



End-of-Life

Options for textiles today

• Re-use, Re-pair, Re-purpose

» Charity

» Second Hand

» Re-design

• Recycle

» Industrial recycling

» Composting?

• Incineration and/or Landfill



End-of-Life

Example re-use



End-of-Life

• ECOLOG Recycling-Network (Vaude)

• GORE™ BALANCE PROJECT™ (Gore)

• Common Threads Recycling Program (Patagonia), ECOCIRCLE™ (Teijin)

• Composting?

Examples recycling



End-of-Life

• „As a basic principle a recycling system is only sensible if an ecological benefit results and if the collection and processing is economically bearable and assured from a long term perspective.“(Source: Marianne Stünzi, Associat General Manager Pusch [Swiss NGO])

• If we don‘t stop the streams of resources currently flowing into the production of goods, but instead force them into cycles that require additional transport, use up new resources and need even more energy, we will eventually experience a material „blockage“ of the economy – with non-assessable ecological consequences(Source: Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek, President Factor 10 Institute, F 83660 Carnoules)

Basic principles for recycling



Recycling

Limits for recycling



Composting

• Generally unfavorable composting conditions

• Dyes designed to be stable

It sounds green to say „this article can be composted“, but the reality is local facilities do not exist, old garments end up in incineration or landfill

Limits for composting



„End-of-Life“ thinking

• “End-of-Life” starts with the design

• Products must be „mono-material“

• Products must be designed for disassembly

• Recycling loops must be established (e.g. ECOCIRCLE™)

Consequence for design



Conclusion

• Input stream management

» Use resource efficient materials and processes

• Implementation of sustainability tools in the supply chain

» Easy manageable tools to reduce workload and complexity

• Main goal

» Improvement of resource productivity – optimization of MIPS (Material Input Per Service-unit)(Prof. Schmidt-Bleek, Factor 10 Institute, France)

Reducing the ecological footprint


EMPA Building

Lerchenfeldstrasse 5

CH-9014 St. Gallen

Fon +41 (0) 71 272 29 90

Fax +41 (0) 71 272 29 99

[email protected]

www.bluesign.com

Thank you

AAPN Miami 2010

Education

Transcript of AAPN Miami 2010