A Vegetable Garden in Plastic Bottles

7/27/2019 A Vegetable Garden in Plastic Bottles

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A VEGETABLE GARDEN IN PLASTIC

BOTTLES

October 4, 2009ByMatt Wilkie

My experiments on growing vegetables in plastic bottles have been very convincing up to now.Not only all the species showed a good development (except for the cauliflower which was

infected), but I am more and more convinced that this gardening method can be a significant

contribution to the combat of desertification, hunger and pollution of the environment (lessplastic in the household waste). It can efficiently be used for desert gardening.

In order to motivate a large number of people to set up similar trials with their choice ofvegetables (or other plants), I bring you some drawings and pictures. Wishing you a lot a

pleasure and interesting observations. Will you send me a small report (if possible with somephotos) ?

(1) Plastic bottle with stop on top and

perfor ated bottom (drainage); (2) Stop taken

off and conical part of the bottle cut away;

small sli t cut i n the cone; (3) Cone pushed to

the bottom in the bottle; (4) Bottle fi ll ed with

potting soil mixed with the water absorbing soil

conditioner TerraCottem, well compacted up to

5 cm from the bottle top; (5) Seed(s) or

seedling(s) in thesoaked potting

soil.

Prepared bottle

: Through the cone, air is penetrating in the potting soil via

the hole in the bottom of the bottle; it enables also the

evacuation of an excess of water (drainage).
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Bottles of different dimensions with vegetables.

2. GARDENING IN A BOTTLERACK

Being convinced there is a nice future for growing vegetables or other plants in plastic bottles,filled with a mix of potting soil and a soil conditioner like TerraCottem, I am continuously

thinking about variants to enlarge application possibilities.

As in the drylands extreme drought, and thus extreme evaporation, is one of the main problems

for agriculture and gardening, I suggest to limit this evaporation by using a plastic bottle toobtain a higher water use efficiency. Indeed, water can be stocked in a volume of potting soil,

wherein a water absorbing soil conditioner can play its supplementary water stocking role. Please

have a look at my former posting on this blog:

Mon potager dans des bouteilles en plastique / My vegetable garden in plastic bottlesMay

10, 2007

This message contains info on how to transform a normal plastic bottle into an efficient container

for growing all kinds of plants, even young trees (to be transplanted when reaching sufficientheight).

Today, Ipresent you an idea on a bottlerack, useful under different conditions :

1. In the drylands, where it can be interesting to fix the bottlerack against a shady wall(less

evaporation when limiting direct sunshine).

2. Fixing the bottlerack on a wall protected from the main wind direction (less evaporation whenless wind).

3. Fixing one or more bottleracks against a wall when not enough open space is available for

growing plants directly in the soil.


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Here are some drawings, made by my son Paul with the SketchUp program, to illustrate my ideas

about such a bottlerack (with bottles prepared according to my suggestions in the former posting

mentioned above).

Materials used for the bottlerack:

1. A (wooden) board

2. in which the chosen number ofscrew eyes, each with a

piece of rope (to fix the upper part of the bottle)

3. and the same number ofsquare screw hooks are drilled.

4. The necessary number ofprepared plastic bottles.

The way the bottles are fixed on the board:

1. The bottle will be put on the square screw hook (of which the hook points upwards), with the

drainage hole sliding over the hook.


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2. The small rope will be knotted around the upper part of the bottle and tightly fixed on the

screweye.

This way, the bottle is firmly sitting against the board and all bottles are in an upright position.

The board should be strongly fixed on the wall with 2-3 hooks. Take into account the weight ofthe bottles with their content of potting soil, water and plants.

3. CONTAINER GARDENING

Here are some general ideas on CONTAINER GARDENING, more and more successful forfood production in the drylands, for combating desertification and for growing plants in urban

areas.

Unlimited possibilities

When the ability to garden is limited by different factors, like available space or drought in thedrylands, then considercontainer gardening. The simple concept of growing plants in pots or

even in plastic bottles or plastic shopping bags, offers a variety of ways to enjoy gardening and

produce plants in the most difficult circumstances. All you are looking for is: some containers(see below), the right growing medium, the right choice of plants (seeds, seedlings or young

plants) and a window, a balcony, a porch or an open area, preferably with a sunny and a shady

part. In these mini-gardens one can easily control the type and condition of the soil and pestcontrol is easier since one can isolate the infected plants.

Container gardening in plastic bottles : (1) Top of bottle sits over hole in bottom of bottle, (2)

Bottle filled with growing medium and parsley seedling planted, (3) Lettuce and cauliflowergrowing on a bottle, (4) Vegetables growing on bottles of different sizes.

Containers will offer the joy of growing plants in an area where traditional gardening isimpossible, e.g. in desert-like areas. Even when space is limited, like in urban areas, one can

grow plants anywhere: on a windowsill, a doorstep, a balcony, a stair or a patio, even a rooftop,

in hanging baskets or in old buckets. They all can provide enough space for an attractive andeven productive (e.g. for vegetables) display.


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One can also grow different plant species in one single container in ecological relationships.

Container gardening makes observation easy and, whenever necessary, containers can easily be

moved around. They can be positioned as screens, serve as windbreaks, brighten a room or createshade.

A well-planned container garden can be attractive (ornamentals) as well as useful (vegetables,fruits, herbs), e.g. to produce fresh food in the drylands or to combat desertification.

Vegetable production in plastic bottles

Taking good care of it will result in a beautiful and functional display, but whenever deciding togive it a try: start small.

Smaller gardens result in lower costs. Initial costs for container gardening may be a bit higher,but once all the necessary materials are purchased, costs are extremely limited: less growing

medium, less fertilizer, fewer plants.

Container gardening is only limited by lack of imagination.

Who is who in container gardening?

Many people are directly interested in container gardening:

People in desert-like areas or in the drylands. People without garden space or with bad soil in their garden. Urban people living in apartments or studios. People with limited time for gardening. Elderly or disabled people with limited mobility. Flowers or herb lovers.

Choice of containers

Almost any type of container can be used for growing plants: flower pots, planter boxes, pails,

buckets, bushel baskets, wire baskets, bushel baskets, wooden boxes, drums, nursery flats, galloncans, window planters, washtubs, strawberry pots, tubs, plastic bottles and bags, large food cans,

an old discarded wheelbarrow with soil and drain holes in the bottom or any number of other

things.


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Containers can be purchased, built or recycled from all kinds of materials, even plastic bottles or

plastic bags. It is always important to choose containers that best accommodate the chosen plant

species. They come in a variety of sizes, shapes and materials. The choice will depend upon thetype of plant and the location. The size of the container will vary according to the crop selection

and space available. Keep in mind that the size, material and shape of the container should be

conducive to your plants health.

Consider the following guidelines when choosing your container:

Generally, avoid containers with narrow openings. Plastic containers are lighter weight, but can become brittle in lower temperatures or they

may deteriorate in UV of the sunlight. They are not porous and keep water over a longerperiod, but this may be an advantage in dry areas (see vegetable production in desert-like

regions or in the drylands).

Terracotta containers are porous, but heavy; they break easily and tend to dry out morerapidly.

Glazed ceramic pots require several drainage holes.

Wooden containers can be built to sizes and shapes suiting the location. However, manyare susceptible to rot. Redwood and cedar are relatively rot resistant.

Hanging baskets, often made of wood or wire, can drizzle onto furniture or the floor. Metal containers heat up rapidly which can cause root damage. Using a clay or plastic pot

as a liner can help.

Wrought-iron stands can minimize wood rot. Window boxes are usually made of wood or plastic. Stone containers create a natural effect, are often difficult to move and break easily. Sunken containers work well for plants that spread easily. One can either bury the whole

container or embed the rim to restrain the plant.

Use containers with sufficient capacity, according to the size and number of plants to begrown in them. Small pots restrict the root area and dry out very quickly. Deep-rooted

vegetables require deeper containers. For larger vegetables like tomatoes and eggplants,use a five-gallon container for each plant.

Generally, most plant species can be grown in containers, as long as enough space to develop

roots is provided. Shallow-rooted crops need a container at least 15 cm (6 inches) in diameter

with a 20 cm (8-inch) soil depth.

Match the dimensions of the plant to the pot. Consider how large the plant is likely to get at

maturity, and pick a pot that gives it plenty of room to grow.

Drainage is very important. Every container should have holes at the base or in the bottom to

permit drainage of excess water, to prevent waterlogged soil and rotting roots. Waterlogged

containers always end up with root rot. Line their base with a layer of coarse gravel, a piece ofnewspaper, a sheet of plastic etc. to prevent soil loss through the drainage hole. Any kind of feet

under the container allows water to drain out. Place it on brick feet or blocks to allow free

drainage or place a saucer under them to catch excess drainage and empty the saucer regularly.


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Dark colored containers absorb more heat, which can damage the plant roots and make it

difficult for them to thrive. Paint them a lighter color or shade the container. In hot climates, use

light-colored containers to lessen heat absorption and discourage uneven root growth.

Line hanging baskets with sphagnum moss for water retention. Keep baskets away from heavy

sun. When filled with moist soil, weight of the container can be a negative factor. Wheninstalling a large container, mount it on castors so that it can be moved easily.

Likewise, consider the shape of the container because some pots can pose problems. A round potin the form of a ball is fine for growing all kinds of plants, but at the end of the growing season,

when its time to remove the plant from the pot, that is often easier said than done. When the

plants roots grow into the wider portion of the pot, its difficult to get the plant out of the potwithout severing the roots,

Saucers

Except in cases where the containers are standing on normal soil, all types of containers need asaucer to collect the loose potting soil and dripping water that escapes from the bottom. Pour thecollected water into a reservoir for future waterings, because it contains nutrients.

Most plants prefer to be watered from the top down rather than wick the water up from belowthrough the drainage hole(s). When excess water drains out of the container, spaces open up in

the potting soil and air fills those spaces. It activates the microbiological activities in the soil,

which helps to make nutrients available to plant roots.

When the top of the container dries, the surface of the potting soil tries to pull moisture up from

the bottom of the pot, but rarely does it all the way up to the top. So if only watering from the

bottom, using a saucer full of water, it will never flush the soil. This can lead to accumulation ofsalt deposits on the container wall.

Growing media

A lightweight, well-draining, porous growing medium is needed, but it should also retainsufficient moisture because roots require both air and water. One can use successfully a soil

conditioning compound like TerraCottem (see www.terracottem.com).

The growing medium should contain sufficient organic matter (for microbiological activities).

Outside garden soilshould preferably not be used, because it is mostly too heavy, compactingwhen drying and then pulling away from the container wall. Heavy soils normally have high clay

content and a low permeability, which makes them slow to absorb water. Once wet, they drain

poorly. They are slow to dry out, insufficiently aerated and plants may not thrive in them (lack ofoxygen for root respiration).


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Peat-based mixes, containing peat and vermiculite, are excellent. They are relatively sterile and

pH adjusted. They also allow the plants to get enough air and water. Some gardeners do not

recommend peat, because it is getting overexploited.

Commercial potting mixes are relatively lightweight, but often slightly acidic; adding some lime

may help to grow certain plant species (soil test: pH around 6.5-7.0).

You can also mix your own: one part loamy garden soil, one part peat moss, one part coarse

(sharp) sand, and a slow-release fertilizer (14-14-14) in the right dosage per volume. Somegardeners do not recommend peat moss (environmental concern), but compost. I would certainly

recommend to use a small dosage of the TerraCottem soil conditioner to enhance the water

retaining capacity an the nutrient content of the growing medium. TerraCottem also contains rootstimulating agents, which make the plants growing better, even in very dry conditions.

Synthetic soil suits very well for vegetable container gardening. This mix may contain a

number of different materials: peat moss, sawdust, wood chips, coir (coconut fibers), bark

products, perlite, vermiculite,

According to many gardeners a soilless potting mix (from a garden center) works best for

container gardening. It drains quickly, is lightweight, designed specifically to deter insects andsoil-borne diseases and is free from weed seeds.

Filling the container

When filling a container, leave at least a 5 cm (2 inch) space between the top of the soil and thetop of the container for adding some mulch (container should be about four-fifths full). Make it

10 cm (4 inches) for plants that need a lot of watering. When watering the container, the growing

medium (substrate) will settle.

Seeds and germination

Seeds are fragile and their viability is sharply declining if not treated properly. Some seeds

survive many years under proper conditions; others lose their viability rather quickly. Keeping

seeds in a cool, dark location with low humidity, will maintain their dormancy. They should belabeled (name, source, year) and stored in a small re-closable container, e.g. a film canister.

When first sowing, test the viability of many, but not all, seeds by soaking them in water for a

few hours. Generally, living ones sink to the bottom, the dead ones float.

It is very rewarding to grow plants from seed, but it is not always an easy task. An overlooked

aspect of plant propagation is record keeping: where the seeds are purchased, their quality andreliability, when they are sown, the germination date and success rate, and when seedlings areready for transplanting. Such observations help to make adjustments for the following years.

Seeds can be germinated in any container filled with a good substrate. As they retain moisture

more consistently, plastic containers are preferable to clay ones. All containers should be clean

(free of pathogens, by soaking them in a 10 percent bleach solution for 15 minutes and letting

them air dry).


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Wide, shallow containers prevent both overcrowding of seedlings and too much moisture around

the young roots. Sow in small, individual containers when seedlings are resenting root

disturbance when transplanted. Commercial trays, but also recycled plastic containers, e.g.yoghurt or butter tubs, will do the job, after poking holes in the bottom for drainage.

Once sown, the seeds should be evenly covered with a fine planting medium to the depth of twotimes the seed diameter, e.g. 0.51.5 cm (1/4 inch to 1/2 inch) for good germination. Very small

seeds and light requiring ones (like grass seeds) should lie on the surface. Each seed must be in

firm contact with the moist substrate to enable germination. Use any flat object or your fingers togently tamp down the surface of the substrate.

A plastic wrap over the container keeps its moisture level stable. Seeds are sensitive to over-watering or under-watering and heavy watering can disturb newly germinated seedlings. Should

additional watering of a container be necessary, place it in a basin with 5-8 cm (2 to 3 inches) of

warm water and allow the substrate to pick up moisture from the bottom. As soon as the seeds

germinate, the plastic wrap should be removed.

Seedling production should always be started in a warm room with sufficient sunlight. Most

seeds will germinate best with 12 to 16 hours of light each day. Place seed containers in a southfacing place and give the container a quarter turn each day to prevent seedlings from

overreaching toward the light.

Many seed species need rather high temperatures to germinate. If needed, install the seed

container(s) close to a heater or on a windowsill under which a radiator of central heating sits to

raise the ambient temperature.

Seedlings and transplantation

An embryo inside a seed relies on food stored in the endosperm. After germination, the shoot and

cotyledons (if a dicotyledon species) emerge. Later on, the true leaves develop andphotosynthesis starts. Mineral nutrients are absorbed from the substrate. Proper fertilizing of the

growing medium may be needed to keep seedlings growing strongly.

Fungal infection is usually caused by excessive moisture and poor air circulation around the

container or tray. Therefore, keep the surface of the soil around the young shoots dry and thereby

create a hostile environment for pathogens. You can place a small fan close to the seedlings and

let it blow at the soil level.

Seedlings may need to be hardened off or acclimated to direct sunlight and changingtemperatures by placing them in direct sunlight during the morning only of the first day, thenincreasing gradually their time outside. It may take 4 to 8 weeks before transplantation date into

the final container.

Easily transplantable vegetables are very suitable for container gardening. Seedlings are

available in local garden centers or nurseries, or they can be grown at home. Most vegetable


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seedlings should be transplanted after developing their first two to three leaves. Transplanting

must be carried out carefully to avoid injuring the young roots.

Planting in containers

Plant at the same time as in a regular garden. After planting, water the soil gently. Should stakesor other supports be needed, provide them when the plants are very small to avoid later root

damage.

Sunlight

Where to put a container, is governed by the growing requirements of the plants it contains. Most

vegetables grow better in full sunlight than in shade. Plants that normally grow in full sun may

well benefit from a bit of afternoon shade, especially in places where they can heat up very

quickly. However, it is possible to position each of the containers in places where they have thebest possible growing conditions. It is also better to foresee a source of water close to the

containers for easy watering.

The amount of light the container plants will need varies with the plant species. It will determine

which crops can be grown. Leafy vegetables (lettuce, parsley, spinach, cabbage,) tolerate shady

places, while root crops (radish, turnip, beetroot,) and fruiting vegetables (tomato, peppers,cucumber, eggplant,) need more sun. Most plants require a minimum of 5-6 hours of direct

sunlight per day. Some gardeners use reflective materials, like aluminum foil or white-painted

surfaces (even glass or marble chips) around containers to increase somewhat the available light.

Fertilizing the containers

Since potting mix drains water rapidly, nutrients will be washed out of the container (leaching)with frequent watering. Therefore, it is necessary to supplement growth of container plants with

fertilizer. Using a slow release or complete organic fertilizer at planting will keep yourvegetables fed for the whole growing season. This can also be done with a soil conditioner like

TerraCottem.

After the first month of growth, add a diluted organic fertilizer (manure tea or compost tea,

seaweed extract) when watering. One can apply such a diluted fertilizer every two weeks and

adjust fertilizer levels as necessary, but remember to provide the plants with a variety of nutrients(mineral and organic, also trace elements). Follow the recommended rate of any fertilizer to

avoid fertilizer burn by lack of soil volume.

It is advisable to leach all the unused fertilizer out of the soil mix by thoroughly watering all

containers with tap water to prevent buildup of injurious materials in the soil mix. This is already

avoided with TerraCottem in the growing medium, because TerraCottem absorbs the excess ofnutrients and keeps them available for plant roots.

Watering


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Container gardening is an excellent way of gardening to control and maximize water usage, but

pots and containers always require more frequent watering than plants in the ground.

Small pots and porous containers, such as those made of clay, terracotta or wood, dry out very

quickly; they have to be watered more frequently or one has to create shade for them. Because

the volume of soil is relatively small, proper watering (generally once a day) is essential forsuccessful container gardening. In an exposed location, container plants loose moisture very

quickly by heating or wind. So do larger plants. Not all plants need to be watered at the same

frequency. Some prefer even drier conditions, like succulents and cacti, which may go severaldays or even weeks without watering. Water should reach air temperature before applying it to

temperature sensitive plants.

Plastic containers (bottles and bags) retain the water longer.

When plants mature, their root system expands and requires more and more water. Judge theneed for water of the containers every day

If the potting mix is getting dry every day (check the soil mix daily in warm temperatures; itshould be moist 2-3 cm or 1 inch deep), group the containers together so that all leaves create a

sort of canopy shading the soil and keeping it cooler. Mulching the containers with grass or

gravel pebbles and installing windbreaks helps to reduce moisture loss by evaporation.

If possible, water late in the day to reduce the hydric stress on the plants. Soak the potting soil

very well and water again a bit later. The first watering usually leaves dry cavities within thepotting mix, while the second watering fills them.

Wetting the leaves should be avoided since that can cause leaf diseases.

Plant species for container gardening

Varieties of different species have been developed specifically for container use (growing fresh,

nutritious vegetables is possible on a window sill, a doorstep or a balcony). Many container

plants are chosen because they are esthetically nice, but not necessarily edible. This is not thecase in the drylands or desert-like areas, where people can grow food crops in containers.

Some fruits, vegetables and herbs provide a remarkable aroma and taste. Consider planting

parsley and carrots together, since parsley repels carrot flies. Those who can grow rather well in

containers are unlimited and they can grow well together. However, it is better to start with only

a few favorite things.

Generally, small crops, which have a quick maturing period, are ideal, and compact varieties of

normally large plants perform better, but vertical climbers also adapt quite well to containerconditions, but they require more space because of their vining growth. Quick-growing small

herbs and leaf lettuces can be planted around larger fruiting vegetables.


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Many herbs can be grown easily from seed. Since their seedlings need dark, warm and moist

conditions, they thrive well in small container. They can later be transplanted or moved to the

outdoor garden. When needed, container plants can be sheltered during periods of hightemperatures.

Remarkable displays, like those shown in gardening magazines, are the result of planting closertogether than in a normal garden. This can be recommended for drought tolerant kitchen herbs.

Consider growing mint, since it grows quite easily in larger containers (30 cm or 1 foot). Unlike

parsley, mint cannot be propagated from seed, but from cuttings. Once mint grows, it can beharvested at any time, and cuttings can be taken for multiplication.

Many successful container flowers (annuals and perennials) are grown in containers. Annuals arevery easy. Perennials can grow larger over time and a combination with the right annuals might

look overwhelming. Bulbs behave like annuals. It is easy to save them year after year and to

collect bulbils for propagation.

One can also grow shrubs and trees in containers. Some will flower, others not. Fruit plants needmore attention. They need to be pruned and fertilized regularly. Permanent spots for larger plants

may be necessary. However, some fruiting plants like figs can be kept in container with constantpruning.

There will always be a need to build up the soil every year.

Diseases and Insects

Plants grown in containers can be attacked by various types of insects and infected with diseases

that are common to any other type of garden. Plants should be periodically inspected for the

presence of foliage and fruit-feeding insects, as well as for the occurrence of diseases.

Containers can be arranged so that plants can attract and repel insects or flies. Some plants emitspecial chemicals (allelochemicals) from their roots or leaves, which repel pests. See books or

Internet information for specific examples.

Benefits and advantages of container gardening

As container gardening can be practiced anywhere, benefits and advantages are extremely

diverse:

It helps saving irrigation water (water conservation).

It avoids a lot of hosing and weeding (time and labour saving). It enables gardening on all floors of apartment blocks and high buildings. It avoids competition with wildlife. Container gardens are close to the kitchen (fresh homegrown herbs). Possibility to intersperse containers with food crops and flowering plants (repelling

insects).

Easy to create good looking spaces (esthetics).


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I have the pleasure of announcing that we are starting up container gardening in plastic bottles

and plastic bags in the refugee camps of the Saharawi people in the Tindouf region (S.W.

Algeria), in particular in schools, where children will produce different vegetables and youngfruit trees during the school year. They will contribute to production of fresh food with vitamins

and mineral elements for the school cantina (kitchen), thus alleviating hunger and vitamin

deficiencies.

A Vegetable Garden in Plastic Bottles

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