A supplement to Classic Toy Trains magazine

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learn about:• Locomotives• Track planning• Layout tips• Buying classics• Making scenery

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www.ClassicToyTrains.com October 2012O and S gauge for the operator and collector

Lionel in 1962: Great sets, dazzling variety p.58

The story behindLionel’s oil derrick p.38

Build a workingcoal ramp p.54

Visit a world-classtrain collection p.64

Relaxed realismon a scenic layout p.48

Building BNSF’s layout O gauge display helps a major railroad reach the public p.32

SHARKNOSE!We test Lionel’s

new diesel pair p.72

Warren Buffett and BNSF’s Matthew Rose – p.32

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Welcome to the enjoyable and exciting hobby of toy trains! Whether you have a train set and are wondering about the next step or you enjoyed O and S gauge trains as a child and are renewing your interest, you’ll find there’s never

been a better time to build your own railroad empire featuring big, powerful, and fun electric trains. Let’s roll up our sleeves and get started!

Full-throttle fun!Before going too far, we should talk

about what a toy train is. You likely know what one is by seeing or holding it. A toy train is a miniature representation of a locomotive, freight car, or passenger car found on an actual railroad.

Scale model railroaders expect that representation to be a precise model of an actual piece of railroad equipment.

By contrast, toy train enthusiasts don’t insist on having perfect replicas. They understand that a toy is supposed to provide joy and help kids (of all ages) escape the demands of everyday life. What could be better?

There are different ways to approach the hobby. You can set up a train on your living room floor, or you can build

a special train table. Add buildings, scenery, roads, vehicles, and figures, and you have a layout.

On the following pages you’ll find plenty of information to get you started. And don’t forget to check out Classic Toy Trains’ website for addi-tional information and helpful tips: www.ClassicToyTrains.com/Beginners.

Lionel’s O gauge trains, in particular the Santa Fe F3 diesels shown here, filled countless dreams of children growing up in the post-world war ii years. You can recapture the magic today, and this handy guide will help you get started.

© 2013, Kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations used in reviews. Published by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Printed in U.S.A.

ClassicToyTrains.com | 3

4 | Starting With Toy Trains

Some of the brightest minds in our hobby are gifted with the ability to put pencil to paper and whip up an original track plan. Even

though I’ve designed a fair number of plans for Classic Toy Trains magazine, I can assure you that I’m certainly not a person with this kind of raw talent. So don’t worry if your genius also falls short in this area – you’re not alone.

Like most of us looking to craft “The Perfect Plan,” my efforts at track plan-ning require a methodical approach. In fact, even before I sit down to render any track plan – large or small, simple or complex – I work through a number of preparatory steps that help me sketch a quality design.

Since many of you have the same goal, I’ll gladly share my six-step pre-

design ritual. Granted, my method and the resulting plans won’t suit every taste, so I encourage you to adapt my steps or develop your own process.

Even better, if you work through the steps and produce a plan you really like, submit a printout or photocopy (CTT Plans, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Wauke-sha, WI 53187-1612) for consideration in CTT’s Toy Train Track Plan series!

Design a layout you’ll love in 6 easy steps

For most of us, a successful track plan comes when preparation and opportunity intersect. By following the six easy steps outlined here, you’ll find a practical path to developing an enjoyable toy train layout that is tailor-made for you.

points to ponder before you draw your next track plan

By Kent Johnson • illustrations by kellie Jaeger

ClassicToyTrains.com | 5

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1study your space. It’s one thing to know that you’ve got a bit of real estate to erect a toy train layout. But in addition to know-

ing the precise dimensions of that space, you’ll want to consider any unique characteristics of your proposed layout area.

Observe and note the location and orienta-tion of doors, closets, windows, vents, and light switches. It’s rarely a good idea to obstruct these fixed features, so you’re better off design-ing around them from the onset. Also consider the height and construction of the ceiling to make sure you account for new lay-out lighting, backdrop installation, and even exceptionally tall framework.

3Draft a room sketch. While great layouts

have begun with something as simple as a sketch on a paper napkin, I prefer to have a more formal draw-ing of the space for my design.

Typically, I’ll start by drawing a pencil sketch of the room on graph paper. After defining the walls, I record each of the previously noted room features. When I’m satisfied with this sketch, I make at least a half-dozen photocopies I can use for doodling out various layout designs any time an idea strikes.

4take stock in your toy train inventory and hobby interests. Though it may seem like an inconse-

quential step, this is often the make-or-break point for many designs. In fact, this step was so significant to John Armstrong, the author of hundreds of track plans pub-lished in Kalmbach books and magazines, that he rarely began a sketch without completing his “Givens and Druthers” – a

list of layout design criteria.Case in point, when my father first con-

sidered building a new layout, I asked him to sur-vey his collection. That’s when he realized his latest acquisitions were

mostly command-controlled locomotives marked for the Chicago, Burl-ington, & Quincy RR. Hence, the basis of his new layout – a design that reflects the Burl-ington Route along the mighty Mississippi River (see “12-by-25 rec-room railroad” in the July 2006 issue of Classic Toy Trains).

Additionally, never discount the impor-tance of dreaming up a layout that reflects you – not your friends, family, or the latest trend in the hobby. As the chief operating engineer, you’ll be much hap-pier with the resulting layout.

6Pencil and paper … or PC and printer. Many lay-out builders still prefer

using a pencil, some paper, an eraser, and a few drafting tools and track templates to develop a sketch into a detailed track plan. My preference is to use my personal computer installed with RR-Track layout design software (www.rrtrack.com). Featuring multiple libraries of track, operating accessories, structures, and even scenery elements, this is the most robust design software available to toy train layout builders.

These features are ideal, but the real bonus is the provision that RR-Track includes for printing a full-scale (1 inch equals 1 inch) plan using a standard computer printer. These black-and-white printouts on 8½ x 11-inch paper can then be placed on a layout tabletop to test-fit a plan – all without the expense of purchasing track sections first.

2make room improvements. After surveying your proposed layout area, you’ll want to make any essential room improvements right away. Speaking

from experience, I can tell you that it’s much easier to install carpet, paint walls, hang a suspended ceiling, and add lights if you aren’t distracted by efforts to plan a layout or maneu-ver around sections of a layout you’ve already assembled.

Even if you never get around to building a layout, you’ll at least have made improvements that enhance the room for any use. More often than not, you’ll be so inspired by the fresh coat of paint or bright lights that you’ll immediately want to start designing a layout. But for now, hold on to that thought.

5Choose your track. The type of track you choose for your layout will influence your design. The cost of each brand is certainly an important consideration, but you’ll also find that the physical characteristics and

geometry of the various track types may dictate how it fits into a space.For example, consider the track plan for CTT’s Retro Railroad (see the

September 2009 issue of Classic Toy Trains). The builders of this 4 x 8-foot O gauge pike opted to use tight-radius O-27 track to accommodate a layout scheme that wasn’t feasible with broader curves. As you consider the many track options now available, be sure to reference Bob Keller’s tips for selecting the right track, also found in this special section.

6 | Starting With Toy Trains

Here at Classic Toy Trains magazine, just about every story we do on selecting track has one thing in common. It results in a surge in

calls and emails from folks asking, “Which track should I buy?”

We can’t tell you which is the best brand to buy because we don’t know what you want on your railroad. Adopt-ing a sort of Zen-like-Kung-Fu-sage-wis-dom approach to the hobby will help.

There are many paths to toy train enlightenment and happiness. Once

you realize that there are few rights or wrongs in the toy train world (well, except for stuff dealing with fire haz-ards and our friend, Mister Electricity), things become easier. Why?

It is all about you. Or at least it’s about your vision for your railroad. What you want for a layout. What you have room for. Which trains you want to run on your railroad. And since every-thing has a cost, what your budget can handle. Find the right mix, and you’ll be happy. Yin and yang, folks.

You can just run out, buy a big box of track, and start putting down straights and curves to see what happens. This is a fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants stage.

But think ahead and plan ahead, and you’ll have a better railroad, and you may even spend less money.

The big “why” of getting ahead of the game is that while buying track isn’t the most expensive thing you’ll ever do, you can easily drop $1,000 before you know it. Here are some questions to ask before you get going:

Consider your space, your trains, and the overall look you want to achieve before committing to a track brand. rear to front are tradi-tional postwar-style O gauge tubular track by Lionel and a postwar no. 2018 2-6-4 steam locomotive. in the center is a williams gP9 riding on Lionel Fastrack, and in front a Lionel LionMaster diesel poses on gargraves flextrack. Jim Forbes photo.

Hey, it is all about you • By Bob Keller

Select your track

ClassicToyTrains.com | 7

1. what “look” do you want your layout to have?

Traditional toy-like: The only less com-plex look would be to put the track down on the living room floor. The objective is to re-create the layout we had when we were 10 years old.

More often than not, the trains are vintage, perhaps augmented with some traditional toy-like locomotives and roll-ing stock from the modern era.

Track is basically screwed down on benchwork. Track may be placed on top of some cork roadbed, and perchance some ballast is added. Structures and accessories will be postwar-style prod-ucts by Lionel or Plasticville. The aim is nostalgia to the max.

Trackage you may want to consider as the best candidates for a traditional layout include tubular styles by Lionel, K-Line, and Williams. I’d also include track systems with a plastic roadbed base (Atlas O’s Industrial Rail brand, Lionel’s FasTrack, and MTH’s Real-Trax). All of these work if just dropped on the layout, without any attempt at scenery integration.

In the S gauge world, I’d include tra-ditional postwar Gilbert American Flyer track and S gauge track by GarGraves (flexible tubular with large wood ties). K-Line also offered traditional-style tubular track.

Toy-rail: Toy-like trains and struc-tures, but integrated into a realistic sce-nic setting.

Just as often as not, trains can be modern, scale-type models or vintage postwar outfits. The main difference between a toy-rail layout and a toy-like layout is the look of the scenery.

Many toy-rail layouts we’ve seen use traditional tubular track, but include additional ties and extra ballasting to improve their appearance. Track brands for this type of layout include the better tubular track sections by GarGraves and Ross Custom Switches, which feature tubular rails mounted on more proto-typical ties. There are also the roadbed-mounted Atlas O Industrial Rail, Lionel FasTrack, and MTH RealTrax systems but with additional weathering or the integration into the scenery.

In the S gauge world, GarGraves offers flex sections of track with large wood ties. Other candidates are Ameri-can Models’ Universal system (solid-rail track mounted on plastic ties) and American S gauge brand track made by Classic Trains (solid rail mounted on plastic ties). MTH plans to offer the S-Trax system (solid rail mounted on a plastic base) originally developed by S-Helper Service.

Hi-rail: Scenery, track, and trains focus on realism (while, of course, ignoring that third rail!).

Candidates for this are tubular track by GarGraves, Ross, solid-rail track by Atlas O, and MTH’s ScaleTrax system.

In the S gauge world, the top three contenders are the solid-rail roadbed system by S-Helper Service and the solid rail mounted on ties systems by Ameri-can Models or Classic Trains. You may want to consider GarGraves.

2. Your diameter of curves Everyone wants O-72 or wider curves,

but many of us can squeeze in only O-27 or O-31.

Although O-36 seems to be the new

“entry diameter of choice,” you can still find ample supplies of tighter-diameter track on the market. Also, most brands offer a wide variety of track lengths and curve diameters. And don’t forget that several brands offer flextrack sections so you can customize your curves.

Don’t simply focus on the widest diameter you can squeeze in. I mean, if you plan on having two O-72 main lines side by side, recognize that this eats up a fair amount of real estate – not just in the curves, but also in the distance between the lines.

Maybe a single track of O-72 would be better. Or, depending on your track plan, you may be able to have more running fun with tighter curves.

Think about all aspects of operation before you buy that box of track!

3. how many switches do you plan? Because of their price, I’ve always

held the number of my switches to a minimum. A couple to shunt cars off to a station or a small yard, and that’s enough for me. But inside, aren’t we all really empire builders?

I incline toward picking the same brand of track and switches. You can make a case for spending either more, or less, and mixing up the brands.

The spending “more” involves buy-ing more exotic switch combinations. For example, if you need a double crossover, you may want to buy a Ross no. 8 double crossover. They look and work great and it’s just one of many switch designs available.

The spending “less” involves scrounging bargain bins and checking out used switches and blowouts of older

trAditiOnAL tOY-Like in O gAuge Steve garofalo’s O gauge layout (featured in the december 2008 Classic Toy Trains) flies the flag of a traditional toy train layout. decoration is minimal and evokes the layouts of the 1950s and ’60s. Steve Crise photo

tOY-rAiL in O gAuge rich turello’s O gauge layout (July 2008 Ctt) shows decoration and additional detail, but the placement of the Mth realtrax on the tabletop will still classify this as a toy-rail layout. william Zuback photo

8 | Starting With Toy Trains

Trackwo

rk for To

y Trains

Peter H

. Rid

dle

Peter H. Riddle

• Choosing the right track• Wiring your track• Customizing rail sections

• Choosing the right track

Toy TrainsToy Toy for

Essential guide to O gauge track

Toy TrainsTrainsTTRACKWORK

new stock. Used switches can save you some dough-re-mi, but I’d never walk out of a shop with one without having the dealer test it for me.

When you start laying down track, be sure you have an idea of how many switches you want in your track plan. If you get the track bolted and ballasted in place, it can be a mess to excavate the area for a new switch. So, if you want 16 switches, but can afford only six or eight today, make the sites for future installation less permanently finished.

If you just want storage, you can cre-ate a yard of “fake” switches. Trim each curved section at an angle to comple-ment a yard feeder track. Place it close enough to the feeder line, and nobody will notice that there isn’t really a switch there unless they look very closely.

4. Can you mix and match? Yes indeed, you can. Through buying

transition sections or transition pins, you can easily mate virtually any O gauge track brand to another. In S gauge it gets a bit trickier. S-Helper Service offered rail joiners to mate its track with American Flyer and GarGraves track. The joiners are currently out of produc-tion, but may still be available from your favorite hobby retailer. It’s possible to take no. 00660 rail joiners and distort them slightly to connect with track from American Models.

5. Can you do it on a budget?Is cost a factor? If so, be miserly. I

built one layout, roughly a 12 x 12-foot square with an open center, and tracked it with used (and I mean the low-down-and-dirty kind of used) postwar track. I

bought it in bundles of 10 sections for $4 from a dealer in Seattle. He was happy to get rid of it, and I was happy to buy it. At the time (the early 1990s) most guys building a new layout wanted freshly minted track.

The rails did require a lot of clean-ing, but in the end only one section was unusable. Given my tight budget for that layout, used track was worth the elbow grease to get that much usable track for such a low price.

You also may be able to find new or used 36-inch tubular straight sections for a good price. Buy those for the long runs in the distance, and transition them to a more visually appealing brand or style for segments running with a clear view from an audience.

I’ve never had an unlimited budget for building a layout, and I’ve made more than one mistake in track selec-tion. But you can do it successfully one small step at a time.

6. what about Mister electricity?Broadly speaking, the track you’ll

find on the market delivers satisfactory electrical connectivity. Most brands, however, when connected, taken apart, re-connected, and taken apart in a con-tinual cycle start to lose some of their mojo as pins get bent or lost and the receptacles become enlarged. So for best connectivity, connect the track once and leave it alone.

But the larger the layout, and the lon-ger the distance from the power supply, the more the power level drops. The highest power level starts at the trans-former and then tends to diminish the farther it travels down the right-of-way.

Plan ahead by selecting the right power source for the main line and the right power source for accessories and the wiring. Install an adequate number of lockons, or you may want to consider installing a central bus line of heavy gauge wire with a network of feeder lines to the track. Never save money by opting for thin “doorbell-type” wiring. Performance will be lacking, you may run the risk of pushing too much power through inadequate wire, and, ulti-mately, you’ll just end up having to do it all over again with better wire.

Where you can, scrimp on track to get something running. But, and I can’t stress this enough, spend the cash and get the right wire for the job. You can swap out the track later if you want; the power grid will continue to serve the new track just as well as the old brand.

where does that leave us?Deciding on the sort of look you

want narrows the choice of track brands considerably. Knowing the diameter of curved track, the number of switches you want, the complexity of the track plan, and the extent of your budget will guide you to the right choice – for you and your vision!

After that, you can focus on buying and installing the track and doing the wiring. Before you know it, you’ll have your trains high-balling.

hi-rAiL in O gAuge extensive scenery and integration of the gargraves track with a meticulous roadbed mark dave Connolly’s O gauge layout (March 2008 Ctt) as a hi-rail layout. trains, track and structures are in harmony. Fred M. dole photo.

hi-rAiL in S gAuge Brad nelson’s S gauge line (March 2008 Ctt) combines classic and modern S gauge trains with superb scenery. he used solid-rail track with ballasting and detailing to make the track seem part of nature. Jim Forbes photo.

For more practical information on trackwork for your O gauge railroad, see Trackwork for Toy Trains by Peter H. Riddle. To order call 800-533-6644 or go to www.KalmbachBooks.com

ClassicToyTrains.com | 9

Move over plywood! A host of foam-based products is poised to take over as the preferred material for building toy train

layouts. While use of dimensional lum-ber will never cease, a variety of foam materials, ranging from thick insulation board to the fine foam foliage used for model trees, is becoming increasingly popular among layout builders.

So what’s the big advantage of using foam products for constructing frame-work and making scenery for a layout?

Versatility is the short answer. Unlike traditional lumber products, which are primarily used to frame a layout, many forms of foam construction material can be easily shaped into realistic land-forms, such as riverbeds, valleys, berms, hills, and mountains.

practical foam products for use in layout construction and scenery making

By Kent Johnson • photos by Jim forbes and kent Johnson

Buildfoam scenery

But that’s only half of the story. In addition to providing a versatile founda-tion for a layout, foam products make up a large share of the commercial materials used to add authentic scenery colors and textures.

The following pages feature an over-all photo of CTT’s Cascade & Timber Trail Railway. I detailed construction of this 4 x 8-foot O gauge railroad in the December 2008 through July 2009 issues of Classic Toy Trains magazine. Turn the page to learn about the many uses of contemporary foam products on a toy train layout. The materials used on the C&TT Ry. are equally effective on larger layouts, including my 14 x 48-foot O gauge basement empire.

There are even more foam products, clever techniques, and handy tools that just won’t fit in the space available for this special section. As always, you can find other instructional features in the pages of Classic Toy Trains.

If you have helpful suggestions that you think other readers will appreciate, be sure to submit them for consider-ation in CTT’s Tips, Tools, and Tech-niques column (see any issue for sub-mission guidelines).

kent shares the application for these and other foam-based products using a layout photo shown on the next page.

10 | Starting With Toy Trains

Making the grade. along with wiring a lay-out, creating a change in track elevation is a task builders have come to fear. such trepidation is one reason i built my home layout without a single grade change.

for builders with more courage than i have, the woodland

scenics subterrain incline and riser components offer an easy solution for adding grades as great as 4 percent. these flexible foam sections are the ideal width (2½ inches) and density to support o or s gauge track; they’re also handy for making steep and winding roads. i typically affix these flexi-ble foam sections to a flat surface using either hot glue or woodland scenics no. st1444 foam tack glue and then use no. st1432 foam nails to temporarily hold things in place.

Noise-reducing road-bed. one of the best ways i’ve found to reduce the noise gener-ated by metal wheels clanking over metal rails is to insert soft foam material between the track (ties) and layout surface. woodland scenics offers o scale track-bed foam in

2-foot strips or 24-foot rolls, but also consider using foam carpet padding or flooring underlayment for larger applications.

a few manufacturers, including scenic express (www.sceneryexpress.com) and mini Highways (www.walthers.com), produce a similar foam rubber material to simulate asphalt roads. typically, these roads feature self-adhesive backing and painted roadway markings.

House made of foam. none of the three little pigs was wise to this idea, but there are plenty of hobbyists who use foam-core board to assemble large and sturdy, yet inexpensive layout struc-tures. this material is typically found at art sup-ply and crafts stores and comes in large sheets of various thicknesses and colors.

using a metal straightedge, a sharp hobby knife, and hot glue, i’ve cut and assembled sec-tions of the material to create industrial buildings as much as 3 feet high. when constructing a foam-core structure, be sure to add plenty of interior bracing to strengthen the design. if you decide to paint foam-core board, apply a very light coat to both the exterior and interior walls to minimize warping.

Ground foam. thanks to tiny colored bits of ground-up foam material, we’ve left the lichen behind and now create scenery with far superior color and texture. manufacturers such as scenic express and woodland scenics offer a compre-hensive spread of foam-based ground covering that ranges from extra fine to clumpy textures. it’s a real challenge to find a color in nature that you can’t match or blend to a match for your

model railroad.there are just as many ways

to apply ground foam as there are colors. for easy application, spread a thin layer of white glue over a layout surface and use a jar with a shaker lid to shower on the foam.

Pete

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. Rid

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Foam framework. even though a standard 4 x 8-foot sheet of 2- or 3-inch-thick pink or blue insulation board is much lighter than a compara-ble sheet of ½-inch plywood, this foam can easi-ly support the weight of a toy train layout. i’ve built layouts supported solely by insulation board and a pair of sawhorses, but it’s best to double the thickness or add wood framing to protect and support the foam.

for quick-assembly foam framework, check out the module kits in the woodland scenics (www.woodlandscenics.com) mod-u-rail sys-tem. also consider foam panels coated with

stone aggregate (www.styro.net) that represents an instant scenery base.

there are adhesives made spe-cifically for use with insulation board, but full-strength white glue

also bonds foam.

ClassicToyTrains.com | 11

Foam-compatible paint. when it comes to covering up stark white foam core or pretty pink foam-insulation board, be sure to use a paint that’s specifically compatible with the material. if you don’t read the labels carefully, you may find that the paint you just applied has initiated a nasty chemical reaction that’s begun to dissolve and pit the surface.

the same holds true for adhe-sives. when painting any kind of foam, i prefer to apply low-odor latex house paint. it’s even better (less mess and clean-up) if i can find the right color in a spray can.

Let it snow. while some builders opt for a full dose of artificial snow on their holiday layouts, others want only a subtle suggestion of the ground covering that comes with winter.

if you’re part of the latter group, you’ll be pleased to learn that genuine dow styrofoam (www.stryrofoamcrafts.com) craft foam sheets can be easily torn into shapes that resemble large patches of melting or drifted snow. look for this type of foam (not insulation or bead) at crafts supply outlets.

Gonna build a mountain. mention “foam mountains” and i immediately think of the postwar lionel no. 121 landscaped tunnel. these tiny forma-tions measure less than 12 inches high – hardly the dimensions of an impressive mountain. make a bigger impression on your layout by stacking woodland scenics no. st1419 profile boards into towering peaks. after interlocking and gluing the sections, i use an electric knife, hot knife, or hot wire cutter to carve a realistic slope.

Rock on! Hollywood movie set creators do it all the time, so why not make your version of a rocky mountain using a variety of lightweight foam products? on the c&tt ry. we used a combination of stacked foam risers, piled foam peanuts, and expanding foam sealant to give our

mountain its rugged terrain.in addition to keeping a layout fit and trim, these products are

far easier to shape and carve than traditional plaster materials. to give foam rocks a realistic texture and strata, you can use a hand-saw, steak knife, or stanley surform rasp. it’s hard to avoid creating lots of foam debris as you work with these tools, so keep a shop vacuum at the ready.

Foamy foliage. trees for your layout don’t need water, but they can use a thin covering of fine foam to enhance their appearance. some commercial trees, such as bachmann scenescapes (www.bachmanntrains.com) no. 32203 conifer trees, come with this detail already secured.

otherwise, i douse my trees with hair spray before showering a green shade of ground foam over the branches. shake off any excess before planting the trunks into a foam base.

12 | Starting With Toy Trains

tHe cHoice is yours, but tHink about a few points before you buy

By Bob Keller

Buy a new locomotive

It has happened to everyone, in every gauge. You see a new locomotive, the “I-gotta-have-it” gene kicks in, you break open the piggy bank, and the

rest is history. Usually this tale of love at first sight has a happy ending, but instances of “What was I thinking?” (also known as buyer’s remorse) have been known to crop up.

While I’m all behind the concept of “If you like it, buy it,” you may want to take an extra breath or two before you plunk down those ducats.

Will it fit in? Can your layout accommo-date your new locomotive? This isn’t particularly a factor of track diameter, but physical size and the overall design of the railroad, and what you model. I own an MTH Premier line Centipede A-A diesel set. It is a wonderful locomo-tive. But with 24 axles and 48 wheels, and measuring 46-plus inches in length, it could not have run on the first two layouts I built as an adult. On the first layout I didn’t even have a stretch of straight track long enough to power it up. So buying a Centipede would not have entered my mind until I had a large layout.

Similarly, if you desire a scale-sized model of a large modern locomotive that will operate fine on your railroad, consider that if you have a 7 x 7-foot layout with O-72 curves, you may find the locomotive chasing the caboose.

If you want to run scale-sized loco-motives on a more traditionally sized pike, you may want to focus on scale models of smaller power, such as MP15s, SW1200s, and GP7s.

But jumbo locomotives don’t pose the only challenge. Locomotives of

smaller stature may have a quirk or two as well. If you have a layout with a yard that is heavy on switches, and you try using a locomotive such as the K-Line Porter steam switcher or the K-Line Plymouth diesel switcher (with fairly short distances between pickup rollers), you may need to attach a car, such as a transfer caboose with a power pickup, to supply extra juice to the motor for an assist rolling through dead spots.

Does the locomotive fit your rail-road’s historical era? This doesn’t mat-ter to me, but you may want to think about it before you buy the product.

I don’t have a problem running a 1940s-era British steam locomotive next to my modern SD90s. Similarly, if I run

an 1890s-style 4-6-0 pulling a train of Overton coaches, I don’t mind stopping at a station next to the 20th Century Limited. But you may find this a bit dis-tracting to the action on the layout.

Does the locomotive fit your rail-road’s road name era? The world of real railroading has a list of closed, abandoned, and merged away railroad names that would fill an encyclopedia. Over the past 50 years, real railroading has marched onward in a process of consolidation into fewer and fewer, but larger and larger railroads.

You may find railroad road names from the 1940s and 1950s just don’t seem appropriate for a layout based on the 1970s and 1980s.

today’s operators can find more locomotive types, in more road names, than ever before. the trick becomes matching them to your own model railroad.

One: A toy train is not a retirement fund.

Never buy a new locomotive as an investment. Don’t buy one thinking you can sell it for close to what you paid. You probably won’t. But if, at some point in the future you do get some of, most of, or all plus a little back, consider it a bonus. Never use the return-on-investment angle as a selling point to your spouse. two: Buy it because you like it.

’Nuff said. three: it’s your railroad and your world to create.

Do whatever you want. Just make sure that whatever you do physically works on your line and fits your idea of

what your layout should be. Then you have it made. And if that locomotive is too large, too small, too old, too mod-ern, or has the wrong paint scheme – well, that’s what display cases are for.

And a general given: Most modern locomotives operate fairly well, and gen-eral performance is comparable in like models from different manufacturers.

As in any aspect of life you can find a clunker. Still, the quality of assembly and out-of-the-box operation is good.

Some products on the lower end of the spectrum may leave something to be desired, but for every $100 dud, you can find a $100 model that is great.

So the odds are that any new loco-motive that you buy will be a “runner” not a “shelf queen.”

Does it mAtch my fleet?

bob’s three rules for buying A locomotive

ClassicToyTrains.com | 13

Does the locomotive have all the command-control bells and whistles? Do you need the bells and whistles?

The good news is that all brands of O and S gauge trains on the market oper-ate in conventional mode.

This provides an operator with basic directional and sound (if equipped) functions. You may not get crew-to-tower gabby-chatter, remote-coupler operation, or the ability to play your iPod through your F3, but you can make the engine go, stop, and toot.

Technology in the toy train world has marched forward over the past 15 years and delivers the problems and benefits of enhanced train operation. That being noted, it has taken quite a while for Lio-nel’s TrainMaster/Legacy systems and MTH’s Digital Command System (DCS), also known as ProtoSound 3.0, to pene-trate the marketplace.

Our most recent survey of command system use by CTT readers documented that most folks operate in conventional mode only.

A fair percentage use a combination of Lionel’s systems: TrainMaster-only, Legacy-only, or Legacy and TrainMaster systems simultaneously. And about the same number use a combination of MTH’s DCS only; DCS and TrainMaster only; or TrainMaster, Legacy, and DCS systems simultaneously.

Operators who have embraced all the bells and whistles seem to demand all the options from all their trains, regard-less of brand. That’s why they use multi-ple command systems.

Therefore, if you buy a command-equipped locomotive ask yourself the $64 question:

Do I have the needed command equipment to extract the maximum

potential from this model? If not, will I be satisfied knowing I can’t use all the features I paid for?

Do i have enough leg room? The size of the train and the track it runs on does matter, regarding both the physical dimensions of the model and its ability to go through tight curves.

Diameter of track curves: Some larger locomotives don’t like O-31 or tighter curves. Some moderately sized locomotives are now offered for O-36 or wider operation use only. If ignored, these restrictions may result in derail-ments or even damage to the model. At the very least, you won’t be happy with your purchase.

curves: Some locomotives marked for O-36, O-42, or even O-72 curves may run through curves tighter than recom-mended – but they usually look pretty weird doing so. Locomotives may hit trackside scenery if they hang over the inside of the curve. In the case of a

steam locomotive, the cab roof may whack trackside details on the outside of the curve. Tunnel portals are also tar-gets for damage if the track goes into a sharp curve immediately after entering.

Ignore the minimum radius at your peril – you don’t want your spiffy new locomotive leaping off a too-tight curve, hitting the floor, and making you say bad words.

Of course, it’s not just the wheels that cause the problem. In the case of some steam locomotives equipped with teth-ers, the tether may force the tender up in the air or off the track on a tight curve.

switches: Running through switches can present a problem for some loco-motives. Indeed, conversations with manufacturers over the years suggest that the main reason a locomotive that can run through, say, O-31 curves ends

up listed as an “O-42” locomotive is the issue of navigating the diverging route of a switch.

When taking the diverging route, the locomotive may hit the switch machine. More often than not, this happens when a diesel’s fuel tank hangs over the curve and bops the machine.

Locomotives with power pickup roll-ers set close together may stall when running through gaps in electrical cur-rent as they roll through a switch. Loco-motives that are longer and equipped with multiple pickup rollers can bridge the gaps that models having a tighter wheelbase can’t.

everything runs in conventional mode. Command control need worry you only if you plan to run in command mode.

Articulation works in the model world just as it does in the real world – except a full-size locomotive isn’t likely to hit nearby scenery or crossing gates!

two jumbo O gauge locomotives are the Lionel 4-8-8-4 Big Boy (front) and the Mth Centipede (rear). Beware of track diameter as well as scenery clearance on curves.

Will it run on my lAyout?

if the locomotive is equippeD With A commAnD system, cAn All its functions be useD on my lAyout?

14 | Starting With Toy Trains

Buy a vintage toy train

take your time and do your Homework

S ooner or later, you’ll be tempted to buy a vintage toy train. Maybe you want to duplicate the set given to you when you were young. Or

you want an engine or accessory from the past to impress visitors.

There are four steps to take when buying a prewar or a postwar locomo-tive, car, or accessory. Essential for me is to never act impulsively and hand over a fist full of cash just because I catch sight of something my heart desires. I take my time and do my homework.

Four basic steps to followFirst – I figure out what I want to add

to my collection before I ever set foot in a train show, make a telephone call to a seller, or peruse Internet auction sites. I study old catalogs as well as current toy train reference guides to get a good sense of what American manufacturers produced in the past.

I’ve compiled a short wish list of models from the post-World War II era that will make neat additions to my col-lection and at some point look good on the layout I dream of building. The locomotives are Lionel; the rolling stock is from the American Model Toys

and Kusan lines; accessories and struc-tures come from an array of O and S gauge manufacturers.

Second – I do as much research as I can about these models. The “Focus on Classics” and “Collectible Classics” arti-cles in Classic Toy Trains are great for learning how various items look and operate. It is very important to under-stand how the items I want were deco-rated so I can determine whether what I eventually see is original.

third – I investigate the values of the models on my list. I check the annual pocket price guides, plus final results at Internet and on-site auctions and listings from sellers advertising in newsletters published by toy train organizations.

Once I know what different models are selling for, I can make some deci-sions about the condition of the loco-motive or car that I will hunt for. And I can determine whether or not I want that item to come in its original box.

Now I’m sure of what I want and have an idea of how much I’ll pay.

Fourth – and most enjoyable – is the search. I call businesses that deal in vin-tage trains (advertisers in Classic Toy Trains) and have solid reputations. I go

to train shows, especially the semi-annual meet held in York, Pa., under the aus-pices of the Eastern Division of the Train Collectors Association.

I pay close attention to what the major auction houses are offering to see if they have what I’m looking for. I care-fully check Internet auction sites, always making sure that there are ample pic-tures. I send the seller questions about the item and ask about his or her policy on returning the item if I’m not satisfied.

getting what i wantYes, I do spend a lot of time doing

homework, but that usually pales when compared to how long the hunt takes. Months or even years can pass as I wait for the right example of the accessory or car I want to come along from a seller I trust. I’ve skipped on models because I refuse to compromise or take risks.

As a result of my prudent approach, my collection remains small. Yet I know how happy I am with every model in it and don’t regret any purchase. It’s too important, particularly when items can be misrepresented, to act foolishly or impatiently. Taking your time and con-ducting adequate research are basic.

if you buy a vintage toy train, such as this Lionel no. 2349 northern Pacific gP9 (cataloged in 1959 and ’60), research the model’s appearance, oper-ation, and current values so you get what you want.

By Roger Carp

Traditional trackplans for toy trains

I n f o r m at I o n S tat I o n

plans for toy trainsI N F O R M AT I O N S TAT I O N

Repair & maintenance of operating cars

I n f o r m at I o n S tat I o n

Details for toytrain scenery

P17091

Just click it, buy it, and use it!To learn more or to order, visit

www.ClassicToyTrains.com/Downloads

Don’t Wait!Plus, keep them handy for future projects!

Topics include:• Electricity, command control, and wiring • Postwar Lionel collecting, repair, and maintenance • Layout planning, construction, and scenery

Instantly download articles directly to your desktop.We’ve bundled some of the best articles from Classic Toy Trains into Information Station packages you can purchase, download, and print right at home.

Getting the information you need has never been so easy!

Lionel F3 diesels:3 of the best

NEW: Pennsylvania RR old-time steam from MTHOperating • Collec ting • Fun classictoytrains.com • SEPTEMBER 2005

MTH’s Mike Wolf on trains, technology, & the lawsuit

How do you say “Lie-oh-NELL?” page 71

Got LIONEL FasTrack? Plans & layout inside!

THE SCOOP on paint, details, & more

Lionel postwar no. 2355 diesel, page 38ke Wolf onke Wolf onke Wolf

rains, technology, & the law

oh-NELL?”

Lionel postwar no. 2355 diesel, page 38ke Wolf onke Wolf diesel, page 38

Layout advice from a train engineer

LIONEL FasTrack5x9 track plan page 44

Two-transfomer WIRING DIAGRAMS page 75

Breaking the LIONELsu� x code page 68

SPECIAL O GAUGE TRACK GUIDE10 pages of brands, types, cleaners and more

Layouts • News • Projects classictoytrains.com • OCTOBER 2006O GAUGE STEAM in theSmoky Mountains page 58

Visit an O gauge pike built by a real railroader page 36

◗◗QUICK & SIMPLE

How to build a TALL trestle

A Lionel Milwaukee Road F3 diesel crosses a trestle built from ready-made parts. Turn to page 36 to learn more.

Vol. 20 • Issue 5

3 walk-in layouts in O and S

Layouts • News • Projects classictoytrains.com • JULY 2007

DESERT DOGBONE5-by-15 O gauge track plan Page 58

ELECTRICAL TIPSTroubleshoot your layout with a multimeter Page 56

S & O GAUGE CROSSINGHow to build 1 crossing track for 2 sizes of trains Page 72

LIONEL’S HIAWATHA ON OUR TEST TRACK Page 78

TUNE UP A POSTWAR-STYLE LIONEL ‘J’ STEAMER Page 46

◗◗Use ready-made wooden

components Page 36

A Lionel Milwaukee Road F3 diesel crosses a trestle built from ready-made parts. Turn to page 36 to learn more.

Vol. 20 • Issue 5A POSTWAR-STYLE LIONELPage 46

trestle trestle

TUNE UPA POSTWAR-STYLE LIONEL ‘J’ STEAMER Page 46

TUNE UPA POSTWAR-STYLE LIONEL

Page 46

layout morerealisticWITH TIPS FROM TODAY’STOP BUILDERS• Visit three super-detailed layouts in O and S p.42, 52, 62

• Where to � nd the layout essentials you need p.66

• Why Lionel embraced realism – 60 years ago! p.72

PLUS!

HOW TO RUN LIKE A REAL RAILROAD p.60

Norm Charbonneau’s stunning O gauge vision of 1940s America. p.52

Layouts • News • Projects www.ClassicToyTrains.com • NOVEMBER 2008

HOT REVIEWSLIONEL’S LEGACY GP7MTH’S NEW 2100 p.78

Great looking track made EASY p.50

« HI-RAIL SPECIAL »

layout layout

NOVEMBER 2008

HOT REVIEWSLIONEL’S LEGACY GP7MTH’S NEW 2100 p.78NOVEMBER 2008

HOT REVIEWS

Layouts • News • Projects www.ClassicToyTrains.com • deCember 2009

REVIEWEDMP15AC switcher from MTH p.84

GREAT TRAINS

Great memories

Gordon Peterson crafted this winter scene on an O gauge diorama.

• Building Christmas layouts past & present p.56

• Removable winter scenery p.46

• Visit a 1950s Lionel department store layout p.72

• Photo Album: Trains of the season p.16

HOW TOPROJECTS READY trains for the holidays p.78

MAKE easy landscapes and roads p.40

BUILD a cardstock structure p.62

Plus

SPECIAL HOLIDAY HOW TO ISSUE

REVIEWEDMP15AC switcher from MTH p.84

Gordon Peterson crafted this winter scene on an O gauge diorama.

ember 2009

Layouts • News • Projects www.ClassicToyTrains.com • July 2010

Reviewed» New Haven set from Lionel Plus » Atlas Trainman passenger cars

Angelo Lautazi’s O gauge layout blends scenery, trains – and fun! p.34

BUILDER’S SPECIAL

POSTWARLIONELTUNE-UP!How to return a classic postwar diesel to peak condition p.48

LEARN FROM THEEXPERTS• Scenic a tall

timber trestle p.42

• Install hidden switch motors p.56 • Plan a logging layout p.40 • Improve a Plasticville

station p.54

LAYOUT VISITS 3 GREAT O & S GAUGERAILROADS p.32, 34, 60

LIONEL’S POSTWAR THUNDERBIRD SET p.64 FOCUS on CLASSICS

LIONELTUNE-UP!How to return a classic postwar diesel to peak condition p.48

www.ClassicToyTrains.com November 2011O and S gauge for the operator and collector

Guide to Lionel’s postwar quad hoppers p.62

P.50CHOO CHOO BARN MARKS 50 YEARS OFTOY TRAINFUN

O gauge Premier line Alco RS-11 by MTH reviewed p.74

TRACKSPECIAL• Detail your track p.33 • Compare today’s

hi-tech switches p.36

• 2 track plansdeliver maximumtrain action p.42

• PLUS: Design a complete scene p.40

4 HOWTO STORIES

Rare American Flyer trains from 1958 p.66

Visit two scenic O gauge layouts p.44, 56

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