A Ride Through Cuba 2015 - Transport in Cuba from the Perspective of a US Transportation Planner
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Transcript of A Ride Through Cuba 2015 - Transport in Cuba from the Perspective of a US Transportation Planner
A Ride Through Cuba Transport in Cuba from the perspec7ve of a US transporta7on planner
By: Lewis Thorwaldson Photos: Brandy Davis & Lewis Thorwaldson
Originally presented to MTA NYC Transit Department of Opera7ons Planning
September 2015
Our Route
We visited Cuba for four weeks in April and May 2015 as part of a larger bicycle trip to South America. Our rough i7nerary was as follows: Fly to Havana -‐> Bus to Viñales -‐>
Bus to Baracoa -‐>Bicycle southern coast -‐> Truck to Bayamo -‐> Truck to Havana
The following presenta7on covers at a high level what I learned about transporta7on in Cuba based on personal observa7on and experience, and an interview with an official at the Ministry of Transport. Separate addenda include addi7onal photos of
various aspects of the transporta7on system.
There is a very strong street life in Havana because there are so few cars – people walk around all over the streets, with the excep7on of a few
arterials, and spend a lot of 7me hanging out in the street.
The dominant sound you hear from your window is the low hum of conversa7on rather than the whirrr and honking of cars.
There are a lot of interes7ng buildings in varying states of disrepair. These were along the malecon.
Note that there are a lot buildings in Havana that have been maintained or restored, but those are generally in the more touris7c areas.
Our casa owner pulled our bikes up to the third floor by hand. We had planned to put our bikes together at the airport and ride into town, but had a problem with one of them so we had to spend a fortune on a taxi.
One thing to understand about Cuba is that there is a major vehicle shortage. A\er the revolu7on, the US and our allies cut off 7es to the country and stopped shipping cars or parts. They were able to supplement the fleet with imports from the Soviet Union un7l that crumbled. The Reagan administra7on created a law that barred any foreign vessels from US ports for six months a\er landing in a Cuban port. This effec7vely means that barely anyone will trade with Cuba because the American plum is just too juicy to risk it. China does nowadays because they are kind of a big deal, but that seems to be more of a recent thing. No parts + no new cars = what we have now…
The Lada style is the most typical taxi used by the state taxi companies. The Lada is actually just one of several Soviet car brands, but I just
lump them all together because I like to say Lada.
For those who don’t know, Baracoa, home of Che Guevara chocolate factory!
We ate lots of cheap chocolate to supplement calories for cycling.
This is the coast road between San7ago and Niquero. It is a des7na7on for cyclists because of the beauty and lack of traffic.
Of course, it isn’t a very important road, so there have been few repairs of hurricane damage.
There was a detour through the dry riverbed. That hopper was placed to let traffic know that something just isn’t quite right.
If you think collectors are going to be running to Cuba once we open the borders, think again.
With no parts, it takes a lot of ingenuity and cra\smanship to keep these cars running – there isn’t much original on these cars.
Our Lada driver to the airport told us he fixes his engine belts using old shoe soles.
There are a LOT of different buses on the road, especially in the rural areas. These state-‐run buses generally ran fixed routes in rural areas
to/from ci7es.
Note that you won’t find so many of the old school buses like you do in most of La7n America because, well, they come from the US.
The school buses are all state run and transport the students and the teachers. I was told that they fill in on the regular transit lines a\er
taking the students in.
In fact, all state vehicles are required help fill in for the vehicle shortage. The woman I interviewed at the Ministry of Transporta7on told me that if she’s driving somewhere and has space, she must stop at pick up points to take passengers. They collect the fares just like the regular bus. Speaking of fares, they are quite cheap, between 20 centavos and 1 peso 75, which is about 1-‐7 cents.
I was told Omnibus Nacional is intercity, assuming I understood correctly, and they do say Havana (here on the other side of the
country), but they sure do look like urban fixed-‐route service, and I never saw one outside of town.
Here’s how we got to Baracoa and Viñales – the Viazul. This is the na7onal intercity tourist bus company. Cubans have only recently been
allowed on the Viazul. Prices for locals are lower than for tourists.
It’s probably not as plush as the all-‐inclusives, but it was s7ll nice. $66 bucks to go about 700 miles across the country seems prejy reasonable, un7l
you consider that the typical doctor or lawyer makes about $200 a month and a blue-‐collar worker takes in much less.
When we’re out there throwing around monthly salaries on bus rides, it starts to be a lijle less wonder that so many Cubans are trying to get something out of you.
This is what you face geong off the Viazul – all the touts pushing casas on you.
So how do the locals get around?
The Astro is the other na7onal bus carrier. Astro is supposed to be for Cubans, but we’ve heard tourists can pay in
tourist money to ride it. We were turned away in Manzanillo. Like everything in Cuba, I think it depends on the 7me and place.
We probably would have been charged in tourist pesos, so even if we’d
been let on the bus, the savings wouldn’t have been huge.
A Note on Currency There are two currencies in Cuba. Conver7ble (tourist) pesos: 1 CUC = $1 USD Na7onal pesos: 1 MN = 24 CUC (buying) Imported goods and anything marketed to tourists (casas, hotels, buses, restaurants) are bought with CUC. Local goods are in MN. Price differences can be stunning. A tourist meal can cost 6-‐10 CUC. A meal at a local restaurant could be 30-‐100 MN. A tourist coffee is 1-‐3 CUC. A coffee at a local stand is 1-‐2 MN.
Cuba has quite a comprehensive train system.
We’ve been told by prejy much everyone we asked that it is “horrible” and slow. I wanted to ride it anyway.
Cuban Train Network
It’s cheap – that 32 peso price from Guantanamo to Havana is just over a buck for 575 miles. We tried to take the train, several 7mes, but got the runaround from people who didn’t know the schedule or were otherwise completely incompetent.
Schedules change frequently, as you can see from the chalk schedule. Again, maintenance is a huge issue and they are
always breaking down.
THE PARTICULAR!
Contrary to what many think, there IS private enterprise in Cuba, called “par7cular”. Lots of it.
In fact, most of the non-‐state cars on the road are par7culares and can be iden7fied by the P plates.
All you have to do is prove that you own the vehicle, it’s func7onal and you can drive and you’ll be given a license to operate anywhere in Cuba on an “oferta-‐demanda” basis, or fix-‐your-‐own-‐rate. You pay taxes and social security like a regular employee, but that’s it. I was actually a bit surprised to hear that there was so lijle restric7on on what is typically an overly restricted business elsewhere. Most of the old American cars you see on the roads, the ones that aren’t spruced up for tourists, are running as collec7vos on fixed routes.
They are cheap, cramped and busy. The short-‐haul intercity ones are usually covered, but the sea7ng is just four basic
metal benches along the back where hopefully you’ll get the window benches, unless it’s raining.
We rode one of these two hours from Manzanillo to Bayamo for a buck or two.
I can’t really explain why, but this photo really does a good job of encapsula7ng a lot of the essence of Cuba for us.
And we had to take a break for some minor repairs. Actually, I suspect it was rou7ne maintenance they fit in whenever
they’re passing home.
The White Whale
The “camel” is my white whale. I had to pull this photo off the internet because I never got one. I spojed one from the Viazul once, and
another 7me saw one pass by when I was bonking on a hill and didn’t get my camera in 7me.
Addenda See the following presenta7ons for addi7onal photos from the Cuban transporta7on system o hjp://www.slideshare.net/LewisThorwaldson/cuba-‐cars-‐2015
o hjp://www.slideshare.net/LewisThorwaldson/cuba-‐buses-‐stops-‐2015
o hjp://www.slideshare.net/LewisThorwaldson/cuba-‐trucks-‐2015
o hjp://www.slideshare.net/LewisThorwaldson/cuba-‐bikes-‐etc-‐2015
© 2015 by Lewis Thorwaldson Except otherwise noted, this work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. To view a copy of this license, visit: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. “Camel Bus in Havana” photo (Slide 81) is a derivative of a photo by Wikipedia user ‘Panther’ under CC BY-SA. “Camel Bus in Havana” is licensed under CC BY-SA by Wikipedia user ‘Vladsinger’. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Camel_bus_in_Havana.jpg All other photos are by Brandy Davis & Lewis Thorwaldson and licensed by CC BY-NC-ND: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. To request original photos or copyright exemptions email: [my last name] at gmail.com