A REVIEW ON: HAIR CARE WITH SOME MEDICINAL PLANTS
Transcript of A REVIEW ON: HAIR CARE WITH SOME MEDICINAL PLANTS
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A REVIEW ON: HAIR CARE WITH SOME MEDICINAL PLANTS
Anju A. Varghese*
Associate Professor, Department of Pharmacognosy, Pushpagiri College of
Pharmacy, Thiruvalla.
ABSTRACT
Plants act as a source of food and medicine from long times. A wide
range of plant oils are used in cosmetics and toiletry preparations. Hair
is an important part of body, reflect personality of person. There are
many cosmetics available for hair care. From long time plant materials
are used for hair care. In this review, Indian medicinal plants having
hare care properties are summarized in terms of their biological source,
active constituents and biological activity.
KEYWORDS: Hair care, Medicinal plants, Phytochemistry,
Pharmacological activity.
INTRODUCTION
In traditional herbal medicine, plants have been used for many years. Therefore, plants have
attained status of natural source of new and potent therapeutic agents. Medicinal plants are
used as ethnomedicine in different countries around the world and are source of natural
products providing unlimited opportunity for new drugs because of readily available
medicinal diversity.[1,2,3]
Natural products have many uses and purposes, including those linked to pharmaceutics and
cosmetics. The parts used as well as the method of preparation and application of herbal
products to the hair and scalp. As can be seen, oils alone or oil mixtures are the most used
products and they are applied or rubbed directly onto the scalp. In addition, coconut oil,
almond oil, olive oil and castor oil were used in most herbal products, not only as a vehicle
but also because of its emollient effect and high nutritional value. This showed synergistic
effects in most of the listed treatments such as: hair endings, damaged hair and hair loss.
WORLD JOURNAL OF PHARMACY AND PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES
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Volume 10, Issue 11, 804-815 Review Article ISSN 2278 – 4357
*Corresponding Author
Prof. Anju A. Varghese
Associate Professor,
Department of
Pharmacognosy, Pushpagiri
College of Pharmacy,
Thiruvalla.
Article Received on
16 Sept. 2021,
Revised on 06 October 2021,
Accepted on 26 October 2021
DOI: 10.20959/wjpps202111-20544
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These oils showed synergistic effects in most of the reported treatments, especially in the
treatment of split hair endings, hair loss and the use of hair conditioners.
Regarding products obtained from mineral or animal sources, the most frequently used
methods in the use of these products were by mixing them with other natural products such
as: eggs, honey or olive oil. Olive oil was again used as a vehicle but to a lesser extent than in
herbal products. However, the egg was used about 50% of the animal and mineral products.
This may be explained due to its high lecithin content and nutritional value.
Cosmetic preparations used for the: colouring or lightening of hair, prevention of hair loss or
the treatment of scabies, have been included in our study. Most of the plant ingredients
(Anthemis cotula, Rosa canina, Simmondsia chinensis, Lavandula coronopifolia, and Prunus
dulcis) are also used today in modern Phyto-cosmetics, whilst a few ingredients (Citrullus
colocynthis, Abelmoschus esculentus and Aegle marmelos) are less known nowadays, for
cosmetic purposes. This usually involves the lightening or colouring to shade of blond hair,
which is considered a synonym of beauty. The use of chamomile pastes, apple vinegar, and
lemon juice indicates a new trend in the cultural concepts of aesthetics, which has been
emphasized in recent years. Nowadays, in fact, blond hair altered by cosmetic products, is
normally considered a sign of beauty in many countries. Therefore, many women are willing
to add and use any natural additives to enhance the performance of certain hair dyes such as
Henna and Chamomile.
Many reported formulations have been are still being used to enhance the appearance of hair:
lightening and colouring, prevention of hair loss and to combat scabies. Less is known about
the Phyto-pharmacology of the ingredients used in these preparations, they often had an
emollient rule and were thought to optimize and restore the functions of the scalp and
appendices, which are highly affected by a lifestyle characterized by hard daily activities.
This group of remedies comprises onions, honey, eggs, aloe, fish oil, mustard, rosemary,
pomegranate and even milk. A few of these species are in fact medicinal plants and it is well-
known in the modern evidence-based European and also Mediterranean and Arab
phytotherapy herbal treatise of the past five centuries.[4]
The methods used in the preparation of these herbal products consisted of the mixing of more
than one natural product together followed by the direct application of this mixed product to
the hair or scalp. This method, however, may result in low compliance as these products are
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often oily or have bad organoleptic properties, making them difficult to be clean without the
use of strong detergents, which may possible and have a detrimental effect on the hair and
scalp. The hair loss was the most common hair disorder treated with natural products
including herbal, mineral or/and plant remedies. This was then followed by hair ending
damage, dandruff, hair conditioners and lice whilst scabies was the least common disorder.
Finally, most of the reported natural products are edible herb, mineral or animal products
such as honey, eggs and milk derivatives.
This study is of great importance as it helps to preserve and improve the knowledge of herbal,
mineral and animal products used as cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals, for hair and scalp
disorders, by women.
Hibiscus rosasinensis, Aloe barbadensis, Lawsonia inermis, Olea europaea, Lawsonia
inermis, Ricinus communis, Allium sativum, Aloe vera, Cocos nucifera, Trigonella
arabica, Prunus dulcis, Citrus limon, Pimpinella anisum, Punica granatum and Sesamum
indicum are the most frequently used plants as home remedies for the treatments of the hair
and scalp.[5]
Hairs can be defined as -"improved epithelial structure formed as a result of keratinization of
germinative cells," hairs are the outgrowths from the follicles existing on the skin. Hair is
composed of keratin with chemical constituents such as Carbon(C), Nitrogen (N), Sulfur (S),
& Oxygen (O). Hair growth varies from person to person but on average hair grows about 15-
30 mm/ month.
Hairs are two types
1. Vellus hair.
2. Terminal hair
Vellus hairs are fine, light coloured and straight. Terminal hair are thicker dark and may be
curly and on the region of eyelashes and eyebrows. 70-100 hairs loss a day is very common
however, dropping over 100 hairs a day lasting longer than a couple of week indicates a
serious problem.
Herbal drug used internally as well as externally used hair growth to prevent premature
greyish or hair loss. The claim of better growth of hair and diminution in loss of hair.
Alopecia is one of the major problems amongst urban people to subjection to stress
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environmental problems etc. The various types of allopathic drugs are here to treat hair loss
but they have many side effects. Herbs are starting material for any medicinal research.
Approximately about 80% residents recommended herbal drugs for their beneficial effects
along with fewer side effects as compared synthetic drugs.
Alopecia, a dermatological disorder that has been recognized for more than 2000 years is a
common problem in cosmetic as well as primary health care practices. It is a common
throughout the world and has been estimated to affect between 0.2% and 2% of the world
population. Various synthetic medicines are available for hair loss which does not treat
permanently and also shows severe side effects. These problems could be solved by the use
of herbal medicines.
Ayurveda has described hair diseases in three words,
1. Indralupta means alopecia
2. Khalitya means loss of hair
3. Palitya means premature hair graying
The herbs used in the treatment of hair loss provide,
Nutritional support
Minerals such as calcium, copper, chromium, iodine, zinc, and magnesium are necessary to
maintain healthy hair growth. Mineral deficiency will reduce the chance to regulate the blood
circulation that promotes healthy hair growth and thyroid hormones that prevent dry hair and
hair loss as well as defects in hair colour. Too much iron is toxic to your body. Be sure to talk
to your doctor before taking any mineral supplement. B vitamins (especially B6, B3, B5 and
folic acid), biotin, anti-oxidant, sources of biotin are: whole grains, egg yolks, liver, rice and
milk. Vitamin A is important for over-all good health. It is also beneficial to hair follicles, as
it keeps the hair root lubricated. Vitamin E acts as an antioxidant that aids real circulation in
the scalp due to increased oxygen uptake in blood, therefore it plays an important role in
promoting hair growth and preventing hair loss. Coenzyme Q10 (CQ-10) is an essential
vitamin that provides our body with the nutrient needed to grow healthy hair. They also
promote overall vitality, and contribute to beautiful skin and strong nails. Yogurt, soya, dark
green vegetable, whole grain products, essential fatty acid, nuts and seedier fatty foods which
are typically the best sources of vitamin E, an immune enhancing antioxidant and nerve
protector. Carrots contain high amounts of vitamin A. It is an antioxidant that helps produce
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healthy sebum in the scalp. Having too much vitamin A can led to hair loss. There are many
other foods that help promote hair growth and prevent hair loss, such as fruits, egg, spinach,
and broccoli.[6]
Some herbs used for hair care are,
Hibiscus rosasinensis
The botanical name of hibiscus is Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. It is an evergreen shrub belonging
to the cotton family Malvaceae.
Fig. 1: Hibiscus rosasinensis.
The herb hibiscus is native to China. Many species of Hibiscus are grown for their showy
flowers. It is a shrub widely cultivated in the tropics as an ornamental plant and has several
forms with varying colours of flowers. Hibiscus has also medicinal properties and takes part
as a primary ingredient in many herbal teas. The red flowered variety is preferred in
medicine.
Phytochemistry
Phytochemical analysis documented that the main bioactive compounds responsible for its
medicinal effects are namely flavonoids, tannins, terpenoids, saponins, and alkaloids,
proanthocyanin. It has been also reported that it contains majorly anthocyanins and
flavonoids; cyanidin-3, 5-diglucoside, cyanidin-3-sophoroside-5-glucoside, quercetin-3,7-
diglucoside, quercetin-3-diglucoside. The other compounds are also present like
cyclopeptide alkaloid, cyanidin chloride, quercetin, hentriacontane and vitamins: riboflavin,
ascorbic acid and thiamine. The leaves and stems contain β-sitosterol, stigmasterol, taraxeryl
acetate and three cyclopropane compounds and their derivatives. The Hibiscus flowers
contain cyanidin diglucoside, flavonoids and vitamins, thiamine, riboflavin, niacin and
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ascorbic acid. H. rosa sinensis extract is a source of many potentially active antioxidants and
anticancer constituents such as quercetin, glycosides, riboflavin, niacin, carotene, malvalic
acid gentisic acid, margaric acid and lauric acid.[7]
Various parts of this plant, like leaves,
flowers and roots, have been known to possess medicinal properties like antigreying,
epilepsy, leprosy, bronchial catarrh and diabetes. Bacterial infection plays a vital role leading
to many of the pathological conditions where extracts of H. Rosa-sinensis extracts have been
used as a traditional medication. One such study of confirmed this antibacterial activity in
vitro as well as the wound-healing activity of the ethanol extracts of H. rosa-sinensis flowers
in vivo.[8]
Experiment from recent studies showed that various types of extracts from all H. rosa
sinensis parts exhibited a wide range of beneficial effects such as hypotensive, anti-pyritic,
anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, antioxidant, anti-bacterial, anti-diabetic, wound healing, and
abortifacient activities. The few studies on toxicity exhibited that most extracts from all parts
of this plant did not show any signs of toxicity at higher doses according to histological
analysis.[9]
Pharmacological activity
Its leaves, barks, roots and flowers have been used in the Indian traditional system as
medicine to treat various diseases. Various research studies proved that the different parts of
Hibiscus rosa sinensis plants possesses antioxidant, antimicrobial, antidiabetic, antiulcer,
hepatoprotective, antifertility, antigenotoxic and anti-inflammatory properties which help in
treatment of many diseases. Hibiscus rosa sinensis has been used in many herbal mix and
drinks. Many research studies conducted in animal modal evaluate Hibiscus rosa sinensis
flowers and leaves as antidiabetic and antioxidant compounds. This review attempt to
highlight the therapeutic application of Hibiscus rosa sinensis. The traditional healers
primarily use water as the solvent. Such identification and characterization of these
metabolites along with their antimicrobial activity exhibited is significant.[7]
Aloe barbadensis
The botanical name of aloe vera is Aloe barbadensis miller., belonging to the family
Liliaceae.
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Fig. 2: Aloe barbadensis.
It is a shrubby or arborescent, perennial, xerophytic, succulent, pea- green colour plant.[10]
The plant has triangular, fleshy leaves with serrated edges, yellow tubular flowers and fruits
that contain numerous seeds. Each leaf is composed of three layers:
1) An inner clear gel that contains 99% water and rest is made of glucomannans, amino
acids, lipids, sterols and vitamins.
2) The middle layer of latex which is the bitter yellow sap and contains anthraquinones and
glycosides.
3) The outer thick layer of 15–20 cells called as rind which has protective function and
synthesizes carbohydrates and proteins. Inside the rind are vascular bundles responsible
for transportation of substances such as water (xylem) and starch (phloem).[11]
Phytochemistry
Aloe vera contains more than 75 different compounds, including vitamins (vitamin A, C, E,
and B12), enzymes (i.e., amylase, catalase, and peroxidase), minerals (i.e., zinc, copper,
selenium, and calcium), sugars (monosaccharides such as mannose-6-phosphate and
polysaccharides such as glucomannans), anthraquinones (aloin and emodin), fatty acids (i.e.,
lupeol and campesterol), hormones (auxins and gibberellins), and others (i.e., salicylic acid,
lignin, and saponins).[13,14,15]
Aloe Vera contains an array of materials, including the following: Acids - antimicrobial, anti-
helminithic (anti-parasitic worms). Amino acids - required for repair and growth. Aloe Vera
contains around eighteen amino acids. Enzymes - catalysts enabling chemical reactions to
take place.
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Lectins - Anti-tumour effects. Lipids - principle structural components of living cells.
Minerals - Calcium, magnesium, potassium and sodium are all present in significant
quantities. Lactates and salicylates - analgesic properties. Phenolics - mild antiseptics and
antimicrobials. Polysaccharides –Stimulate skin growth and repair. Vitamins - contains 8 of
the 13 recognized vitamins. Aloe latex contains compounds known as anthraquinones that
stimulate the activity of the gastrointestinal tract.[16]
Pharmacological activity
The most investigated active compounds are aloe-emodin, aloin, aloesin, emodin. Likewise,
new actions have been investigated for Aloe vera and its active compounds. The colorless
mucilaginous gel from Aloe vera leaves has been extensively used with pharmacological and
cosmetic applications. Traditionally, this medicinal plant has been employed to treat skin
problems (burns, wounds, and anti-inflammatory processes). Moreover, Aloe vera has shown
other therapeutic properties including anticancer, antioxidant, antidiabetic, and
antihyperlipidemic. Aloe vera contains more than 75 different compounds, including vitamins
(vitamin A, C, E, and B12), enzymes (i.e., amylase, catalase, and peroxidase), minerals (i.e.,
zinc, copper, selenium, and calcium), sugars (monosaccharides such as mannose-6-phosphate
and polysaccharides such as glucomannans), anthraquinones (aloin and emodin), fatty acids
(i.e., lupeol and campesterol), hormones (auxins and gibberellins), and others (i.e., salicylic
acid, lignin, and saponins). [13,14,15]
Lawsonia inermis
The botanical name of henna is Lawsonia inermis, belonging to the family Lythraceae.
Fig. 3: Lawsonia inermis.
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It grows in wild and cultivated as garden plant throughout India. Henna leaves are the part of
plant that is used in hair formulations. Leaves mainly contain lawsone (quinone) dissolve in
basic pH to give dark intense orange colour. Henna leaves have been used from ancient time
as a hair colour due to the chemical interaction of lawsone (thiol group) to the keratin.[17]
Phytochemistry
Leaves: 2-Hydroxy-1, 4-napthoquinone (HNQ; Lawsone) is the principle natural dye
contained at 1.0 -1.4 % in the leaves of Henna. Other related compounds present in the leaves
are: 1, 4dihydro xynaphthalene.1,4-naphthoquinone, 1,2-dihydroxy glucoyloxy naphthalene
and 2-hydroxy-1,4-diglucosyloxy naphthalene. Flavonoids (luteolins, apigenin, and their
glycosides). Coumarins (esculetin, fraxetin, scopletin). Steroids (β-sitosterol). The leaves of
Lawsonia inermis also reported to contain soluble matter tannin, gallic acid, glucose,
mannitol, fat, resin and mucilage. Bark: Bark contains napthoquinone, isoplumbagin,
triterpenoids, Hennadiol, aliphatics (3-methyl nonacosan-1-ol). Flower: Flowers on steam
distillation gave an essential oil (0.02 %) rich in ionones (90 %) in which β-ionones
predominated. Root: Aqueous root extract of L. inermis contains alkaloids, saponins, steroids,
cardiac glycosides, flavonoids, tannins and reducing sugars.[18]
Pharmacological activity
The ethanolic extract of leaves of Lawsonia showed significant analgesic as well as
antipyretic activity. Methanol extract of Lawsonia inermis flowers showed a good anti-
inflammatory activity against 5-Lipoxygenase. It may be interpreted that the greatest anti-
inflammatory activity was due to the high amounts of total phenolic compounds.
Isoplumbagin and lawsaritol, isolated from stem bark and root of L. inermis screened for anti-
inflammatory activity against carrageenan induced paw edema in rats.
Aqueous and ethanolic leaf extract demonstrated anti-arthritic activity, as reflected by a
reduction in paw oedema, paw diameter and body weight loss in both Freund's adjuvant-
induced and formaldehyde-induced arthritis mice models. Aqueous, ethanol and chloroform
leaf extracts showed a strong anti-ulcer activity in pylorus ligation- and aspirin-induced rats
when compared to ranitidine.
Ethanolic extract of Lawsonia leaves were investigated for antimicrobial property using Agar
well diffusion method. Antioxidant, antibacterial activities and phytotoxic potentials of
commonly commercialized henna’s dried leaves (HL) and processed powder (HP) were
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investigated and the antimicrobial potential evaluated. L. inermis is a potential antimalarial
drug, having high in vitro and in vivo antiplasmodial activity.
Antibacterial activity of aqueous, ethanol, methanol, ethyl acetate and chloroform extracts of
Lawsonia inermis leaves were tested against reference bacterial strains. The antitumour
activity of L. inermis leaf extract was studied on 7,12-dimethylbenzanthracene (DMBA)
induced 2-stage skin carcinogenesis and B16F10 melanoma tumour model using swiss albino
mice. The aqueous extract of Lawsonia inermis was administered orally to the rats with
hepatotoxicity induced by paracetamol. Aqueous and ethanolic extracts of Lawsonia inermis
leaves showed diuretic activity. Lawsone and its oxazine derivatives isolated from leaves of
L. inermis had proven to be potential anticoagulant agent.
Ethanolic extract of henna leaves and lawsone exhibited significant wound healing activity on
rat excision and incision wound models. Methanol extract of henna leaves at 1 mg/ml
concentration had displayed immunostimulant action as indicated by promotion of T-
lymphocyte proliferative responses. Ethanolic extract prepared from the powdered seeds of L.
inermis failed to show significant antifertility activity.
The tuberculostatic activity of henna was tested in-vitro and in-vivo using Lowenstein Jensen
medium, the growth of Tubercle bacilli. Methanolic extract of Lawsonia Inermis bark showed
cytotoxicity activity when exposed to lymphocyte cells. The chloroform extract of Lawsonia
inermis flowers exhibited a higher tannins content.
Methanol extract of roots of L. inermis was most effective in inducing abortion in mice, rats
and guinea pig. Ethanolic extract of the plant tissues was evaluated in-vitro for protein
glycation inhibitory activity using the model system of bovine serum albumin and glucose.
The effect of aqueous extract of Lawsonia inermis seeds was carried out to study the acute
and sub-chronic toxicological effects on rats.
Lawsonia inermis is not only a colouring agent, but a universal herbal medicine with diverse
pharmacological activity spectrum. This versatile medicinal plant is the unique source of
various types of chemical compounds, which are responsible of the various activities of the
plant. Although crude extracts from leaves of plant have medicinal applications from time
immemorial, modern drugs can be developed after extensive investigation of its bioactivity,
mechanism of action, pharmacotherapeutics and toxicity after proper standardization and
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clinical trials. At present the global scenario is changing towards the use of non-toxic plant
products having traditional medicinal use, development of modern drugs from L. inermis
should be emphasized for the control of various diseases.[18]
CONCLUSION
Different plant species are currently being used by herbalists and traditional practitioner
healers, for the treatment of various types of medical conditions. The first study that assesses
the usage of these natural products as cosmetics or cosmeceuticals for hair and scalp
disorders and afflictions. Moreover, this study is of great importance as it improves our
understanding of the folkloric use of these natural products. A combined scientific effort
between informants and the scientific community, working in this field, may help in the
discovery of new cosmetics, cosmeceutical and nutraceutical products. The various types of
allopathic drugs to treat hair loss but they have many side effects. Herbs are starting material
for any medication research. Approximately about 80% residents recommended herbal drugs
for their beneficial effects along with fewer side effects as compared synthetic drugs.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I thank Dr Santhosh M Mathews, Principal, Pushpagiri College of Pharmacy (Kerala
University of Health Sciences), Thiruvalla, Mrs. Preethu P John (Assistant Professor,
Department of Pharmacology, Pushpagiri College of Pharmacy, Thiruvalla) and all the other
faculties of Pushpagiri College of Pharmacy for their continuous support and encouragement.
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