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Transcript of A REPORT ON PROBLEMS AND PROSPECTS OF PRODUCTION OF OPERATION MANAGEMENT OF GARMENT SECTOR IN...
NORTHERN UNIVERSITY BANGLADESH
A REPORT
ON
PROBLEMS AND PROSPECTS OF
PRODUCTIONS OF OPERATION MANAGEMENT OF
GARMENTS SECTOR IN BANGLADESH.
Date of Submission: July 11, 2012
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NORTHERN UNIVERSITY BANGLADESH
A REPORT
ON
PROBLEMS AND PROSPECTS OF
PRODUCTIONS OF OPERATION MANAGEMENT OF
GARMENTS SECTOR IN BANGLADESH.
SUBMITTED BY:
Name ID Program
Abu Bakar
siddique
100261155 BBA,7A
SUBMITTED TO:
Tamanna Jarin
Department of Business Administration
Northern University Bangladesh.
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NORTHERN UNIVERSITY BANGLADESH
STUDENT DECLARATION
I do hereby declare that report “problems and prospects of production of operation
management of garments sector of Bangladesh” submitted by me to Tamanna Jarin,
lecturer in DBA, Northern University Bangladesh, Khulna campus, Khulna for the
degree of Bachelor of Business Administration is an original work.
All the related information of the report will be strongly maintained confidentially
and only will be used for educational purpose.
I tried to my best to prepare this report as early as possible.
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NORTHERN UNIVERSITY BANGLADESH
LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL
Date: July11, 2012
To
Tamanna Jarin,
Department of Business Administration.
Northern University Bangladesh.
Khulna Campus, Khulna.
Subject: Submission of the report on “ problems and prospects of production of
operation management of garments sector of Bangladesh”
Dear Mam,
With due respect, it is stated that we are submitting our report on “problems and
prospects of production of operation management of garments sector of Bangladesh”
This is the requirement for obtaining the course of Operation management offered by
course teacher of Northern University Bangladesh, Khulna Campus.
It was pleasure experience on our part to go through the processes, which reiterate my
classroom knowledge. Despite my insufficient knowledge, I hope the report has attained
its purpose to a considerable extent.
Thanking you for your valuable advice and cooperation.
Yours Sincerely,----------------------------ABU BAKAR SIDDIQUEID: 100261155Bachelor of Business AdministrationNorthern University Bangladesh.Khulna,Kampus
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NORTHERN UNIVERSITY BANGLADESH
Acknowledgement
At first I desire to express our deepest sense of gratitude of almighty Allah.
With profound regard I gratefully acknowledge our respected course teacher
Tamanna Jarin, Lecturer, Department of Business Administration, Faculty of
Business, Northern University Bangladesh. Khulna Campus, Khulna help and day
to day suggestion during preparation of the report.
I like to give thanks especially to our friends and many individuals, for
their enthusiastic encouragements and helps during the preparation of this report
me by sharing ideas regarding this subject and for their assistance in
typing and proof reading this manuscript. Without helping it would not be
possible to prepare. So, Again I like to give thanks all of you for helping me to do it
perfectly.
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ABBREVIATION
RMG = Ready-Made Garments.
MFA = Multi Fiber Agreement.
ATC = Agreement on Textile and Clothing.
GoB = Government of Bangladesh.
HDI = Human Development Index.
U N D P = United Nations Development Project.
GDP = Gross Development Profit.
WTO = World Trade Organization.
EU = European Union.
USA = United State of America.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Contents Page no
Title i
Student declaration iii
Letter of transmittal iv
Acknowledgement v
Abbreviation vi
Table of Contents vii
Executive Summary ix
CHAPTER 1:
INTRODUCTION 1-3
1.1. Purpose of the Report 1
1.2. origin of the report 1
1.3. Objectives of the Report 1
1.4. Sources of Data and Methodology 2
1.5. Scope of the Report 2
1.6. Limitations of the Report 3
CHAPTER 2:
OVERVIEW OF THE STUDY 4-11
2.1. Key concept of topic 4
2.2. Definition of production 4
2.3. Definition of operation 4
2.4. Importance of production 4
2.5. Importance of operation 5
2.6. The Bangladesh Garment Industry 6
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2.7. Contribution of the RMG Industry 7
2.8. Exporting Condition of Garments Industry 9
2.9. The Bangladesh Garment Industry: Challenges of the 21st century11
CHAPTER 3:
THE PROBLEMS AND PROEPECTS: 13-20
3.1. Problems 13
3.2. Prospects 16
CHAPTER 4:
ANALYSIS AND FINDINGS: 21-26
4.1. Strength 21
4.2. Weakness 22
4.3. Opportunity 23
4.4. Threats 25
CHAPTER 5:
RECOMMENDATIONS AND CONCLUSION: 27-29
5.1. Recommendations 27
5.2. Conclusion 28
REFERENCES 29-30
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
The phase-out of the quota is likely to have particular significance for the export
of Bangladesh apparels to the US market. MFA’s impacts are not much related to a question of
our $2 billion exports to the USA; or the $5 billion worth of exports made
by Bangladesh globally. Rather, it is a question of how Bangladesh’s entire economy
wills is affected by the issue of quota phase out. RMG exports constitute about 75% of
Bangladesh’s annual export and provide direct employment to 1.5 million females
and indirectly an additional 8 to 10 million people. The global clothing trade is
evolving on a continuous basis and that the phase out of quota restrictions and
forming of trade blocs has become a reality. Moreover Bangladesh is convulsed by
fierce class struggles, centered on the country’s garment industry. Many tens of
thousands of workers have gone on strike, blocked roads, attacked factories and other
buildings, demonstrated, fought the police and rioted in the streets. Every day comes
news of fresh strikes in a variety of industries —mainly the ready-made garment (RMG)
sector, but also mill workers, river transport workers, rail
workers, journalists, lecturers and teachers. The revolt began on 20 May2006 with
garment workers’ strikes in the Bangladeshi capital Dhaka — beginning in a small
number of factories over issues including the arrest of worker activists and non-
payment of wages. By23 May2006 this struggle had been generalized, with action at a much
larger number of factories and demonstrations across the city. A massive army and
police presence around garment factories, in some cases completely blockading and creating
check points for entry to Export Processing Zones, temporarily calmed things; but
strikes continued to take place at numerous factories, leading to solidarity strikes
from nearby workplaces.
\
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INTRODUCTION
The tremendous success of readymade garment exports from Bangladesh
over the last two decades has surpassed the most optimistic expectations. Today
the apparel export sector is a multi-billion-dollar manufacturing and export
industry in the country. The overall impact of the readymade garment exports
is certainly one of the most significant social and economic developments in
contemporary Bangladesh. With over one and a ha l f mi l l i on wom en
wor kers employed in s e mi - sk i l l e d and sk i l l e d jobs pro duc ing
clothing for exports, the development of the apparel export industry has had far-
reaching implications for the society and economy of Bangladesh.
1.1. Purpose of the Study:
The report is required course for the students who are studying BBA (Bachelor of
Business Administration) of Northern University Bangladesh under the course titled
Operation Management
1.2. Origin of the report:
F o r t h e a s s e s s m e n t , b o t h p r i m a r y a n d s e c o n d a r y d a t a w a s
c o l l e c t e d . F o r t h i s w e interviewed one garments company through
using a structured questionnaire. Personal interview technique was
applied while fill up the questionnaire on respondents. And I also
analysis some report of various garment industries.
1.3. Objectives of the Study:
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˃ Broad Objective: The main objective of this study is problems and prospects of
garments sector of Bangladesh.
˃ Specific Objective:
To present an overview of key concept relating problems.
To study the definition of various problems.
To study the classification of problems and prospects.
To study the prospects of Bangladesh.
To study the challenges of development of Bangladesh.
To study the effect of global in Bangladesh.
1.4. Sources of Data and Methodology:
The report was fully exploratory in nature. Data have been collected from
secondary sources.
Ms-Word and other required computer program were used to process
the Quantitative data on which final report was prepared.
The theoretical part of this report has been collected from text that I
studied in our program.
Most of the parts are collected from internet in different website.
1.5. Scope of the study:
This study has focused upon the various problems regarding with the garments
company and the prospect of these industries. We have taken 5 garments company
to gather data on the present situation of the garments industries as well as
problem regarding and the future of the industries
1.6. Limitations of the Report:
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Since our study is based on both primary and secondary data, there is a
possibility of ge t t ing fake in format ion . I f the su rveyed per sonne l
pro v id e us w i th any fabr i ca te d information about their
Opinion of their organization, then the report findings may be erroneous.
Above all, this study is weak in some points. The notable ones are an Opinion of
their organization, and then the report findings may be erroneous. Above
all, this study is weak in some points. The notable ones are as under:
The survey was conducted in a very short time so we were not able to collect more information.
This survey made on crisis situation of Bangladesh, so it was
difficult to collect more samples.
Only the big and the reputed Garments Company consider here as sample.
The questionnaire contains some questions that, if answered
properly, might damage the company’s image. In this type of
questions, the respondents might provide socially acceptable
answers. This risk was unavoidable.
Another limitation of this study is the person’s private
information were not disclosing some, data and information for
obvious reasons, which could be very much useful.
Lack of experience in this field.
Lack of proper authority to conduct the interview program.
And I also say that lack of proper time.
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OVERVIEW OF THE STUDY
2.1. Key concept of topic:
Problems and prospects of production of operation management of garments sector
of Bangladesh It is most vital part for business of a country. The major key concepts
are Problems and prospects
2.2. Definition of Production:
The processes and methods employed to transform tangible inputs (raw materials,
semi finished goods, or subassemblies) and intangible inputs (ideas, information,
knowledge) into goods or services.
2.3. Definition of Operation:
Operations means transform resource or data inputs into desired goods, services, or results, and create and deliver value to the customers.
2.4. Importance of production:
It needs no exaggeration to say that production makes significant contribution to
society well being. The standard of living of people depends on production of goods
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and services. The More production higher, the standard of living of the people is
better. Alexander Solzhenitsyn in hi novel August 1914 beautifully sums up the
importance of production. One of the characters in the work in Suyataslav
Iakintovich Obodovsky, a former anarchist, who maintains the following
position :As for industry, anyone who has created something with his owns hands
knows that production is neither capitalist nor socialists but one thing only, it is
what creates national wealth ,the common national basis without which no country
can exist. Production function can offer competitive advantage to a firm in the
following areas:
1. Shorter new-product lead time.
2. More inventory turns.
3. Shorter manufacturing lead time.
4. Higher quality.
5. Greater flexibility.
6. Better customer service.
7. Reduced wastage.
Many causes that deny competitive advantages to any firm can be attributed to
manufacturing function specifically to poor quality and reliability, delayed
deliveries, high production costs and lack of adequate inventory at the right
time.Economic prosperity and a greater standard of living of Japanese may be
attributed to high productivity. It may be stated that the production function offers
vast scope for achieving productivity with effective management of materials and
lead time, and with better control of cost, a firm will be able to bring out more
output from a given input at reasonable cost.
2.5. Importance of operation:
To be able produce professional managers capable of fulfilling
strategic roles within business and government enterprises the need
for the practice of operations management cannot be forgone.
Operations management is very important in business operations since
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NORTHERN UNIVERSITY BANGLADESH
it forms the heart of the orga nization by controlling the system of
operation. Operations management deals with the design, operation,
and improvement of the systems that create and deliver a
firm’s primary products and services. Like marketing and finance,
operations management is a functional field of business with clear
management responsibilities. Guinness Ghana limited is accompanying in
which produces alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages such as Guinness
and Malta Guinness respective. So, operation is one of the most important matters
in business.
2.6. The Bangladesh Garment Industry:
For Bangladesh, the readymade garment export industry has been the proverbial
goose that lays the golden eggs for over fifteen years now. Sector now
dominates the modern economy in export earnings, secondary impact and
employment generated. The events in1998 serve to highlight the vulnerability
of this industry to both internal and external shocks on the demand and
supply side. Given the dominance of the sector in the overall modern economy of
Bangladesh, this vulnerability should be a matter of some concern to the
policymakers in Bangladesh. Although in gross terms the sector’s contributions to
the country’s export earnings is around 74 percent, in net terms the share would be
much less pa r t ia l l y becaus e the backward l inka ges in t ex t i l e have
bee n s l ow to deve l op . The dependence on a single sector, no matter how
resilient or sturdy that sector is, is a matter of policy concern. We believe the
policymakers in Bangladesh should work to reduce this dependence by
moving quickly to develop the other export industries using the lessons
learned from the success of apparel exports. Support for the apparel sector should
not be reduced. In fact, another way to reduce the vulnerability is to diversify the
product and the market mix. It is heartening to observe that the knit products are
rapidly gaining share in overall garment exports as these products are sold
in quota-free markets and reflect the strength of Bangladeshi producers in the
fully competitive global apparel markets. Preliminary data and informal evidence
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indicate that this sector seems to have weathered the devastating floods relatively
well. The industry is one hundred percent export-oriented and therefore insulated
from domestic demand shocks; however, it remains vulnerable to domestic supply
shocks and the smooth functioning of the banking, transportation ano ther
forward and backward linkage sectors of the economy. The Dhaka-Citation road
remains the main transportation link connecting the production units, mostly
situated in and around Dhaka and the port in Citation, where the raw material and
the finished products are shipped in and out. Despair increased dependence on air
transportation, trucks remain the main vehicles. For transporting raw
materials and finished products for Bangladesh garment exports. The floods
disrupted the normal flow of traffic on this road. Eventually, this road link was
completely severed for several days when large
Sections of the road went under water for a few weeks during the latter
phase of the floods. This declining of the road connection between Dhaka 6
the port in Citation was as serious threat as one can imagine for the garment
exporters. The industry responded by calling upon the Bangladesh navy to help with
trawlers and renting a plane from Thai Air that was used to directly fly garment
consignments from the Dhaka airport to the Citation airport several times a day.
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Pic
ture: Garments products of Bangladesh
2.7. Contribution of the RMG Industry:
RMG business started in the late 70s as a negligible non-traditional sector with a
narrow export base and by the year 1983 i t emerged as a promis ing
expor t earn ing s ec tor ; pre sen t ly i t contributes around 75 percent of
the total export earnings. Over the past one and half decade, RMG export
earnings have increased by more than 8 times with an exceptional growth
rate of 16.5 percent per annum. In FY06, earnings reached about 8 billion
USD, which was only less than a billion USD in FY91. Excepting FY02, the
industry registered significant positive growth throughout this period
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In terms of GDP, RMG’s contribution is highly remarkable; it reaches 13 percent of GDP
which was only about 3 percent in FY91. This is a clear indication of
the industry’s contribution to the overall economy. It also plays a
pivotal role to promote the development of other key sectors of the
economy like banking, insurance, shipping, hotel, tourism, road
transportation, railway container services, etc. A 1999 study found the industry
supporting approximately USD 2.0 billion worth of economic activities
(Bhattacharya and Rahman), when the value of exports stood at a little
over USD 4.0 billion. One of the key advantages of the RMG industry is its cheap
labor force, which provides a compet i t i ve edge over i t s compet i tor s .
The s ec tor has crea ted jobs for about two million people of which 70
percent are women who mostly come from rural areas. The sector opened up
employment opportunities for many more individuals through direct and
indirect economic activities, which eventually helps the country’s
social development, woman empowerment and poverty alleviation.
2.8. Exporting Condition of Garments Industry
The Ready-Made Garments (RMG) industry occupies a
unique position in the Bangladesh economy. It is the largest
exporting industry in Bangladesh, which Experienced
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NORTHERN UNIVERSITY BANGLADESH
phenomenal growth during the last 20 years. By taking
advantage of an insulated market under the provision of Multi
Fiber Agreement (MFA) of GATT, it attained a high profile in
terms of foreign exchange earnings, exports, industrialization and
contribution to GDP within a short span of time. The industry
plays a key role unemployment generation and in the provision of
income to the poor. Nearly two million workers are directly and more
than ten million inhabitants are indirectly associated with the industry.
Over the past twenty years, the number of manufacturing units has
grown from 180 to over 3600. The sector has a lso played a
s igni f icant role in the socio- economic development of the country.
The Agreement on Textile and Clothing (ATC) introduced in 1994,
aimed at bringing textiles and clothing within the domain of WTO
rules by abolishing all quotas by the end of 2004. It provides an
adjustment period of 10 years, so that countries affected byte MFA
could take the necessary steps to adjust to the new
trading environment . Liberalization of trade following the
Uruguay Round agreement presents opportunities as well as challenges
for a developing country like Bangladesh in RMG sector. In the Post-
Uruguay Round period, traditional instruments of trade policy
such as tariffs, quotas, and subsidies will become less feasible and less
relevant. In a liberalized trade régime, competition among textiles and
clothing exporting countries is likely to become intense. The objective of
this paper is to identify the prospects of RMG industry after the MFA
phase out by analyzing the current scenario along with different policy
measures and the available options in order to be more competitive in
the new regime. The export made by Garments Industries of
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Bangladesh is improving year after year except some of the
year. Strike, layout, shutdown of company, political problem,
economic problem, inflation etc. are the prime cause of
decreasing export in this important sector. But above it,
Readymade Garments Industries is the leading sector inexpert sector.
Year USA %
1991-92 624.16 32.49
1997 – 98 2547.13 14.1
2002 – 03 4859.83 11.7
003 – 04 4583.75 5.6
2004 – 05 4912.12 7.2
2005 – 06 5686.09 15.8
2006 - 07 6198. 53 17. 5
2007 – 08 5253. 36 13. 89
2008 – 09 7152. 26 19. 5
2009 – 10 7413. 01 21. 24
20010 – 11 7502. 11 23. 12
Figure: Year Export by the garments industries (in US $ million)
Position of Bangladesh is exporting product in USA is not very satisfactory but this situation is better than any other condition of the previous time. But if our Government take some essential law and break out the wall of biasness then the position of Bangladesh in Garments sector in would.
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From the survey we have found some tremendous information that help to build our practical knowledge about the garments industry of our country.
2.9. The Bangladesh Garment Industry: Challenges of the 21st century:
Readymade Garment (RMG) Industry occupies a dominant position in the export-
manufacturing sector of Bangladesh. The advent of the RMG sector happened
during the early 80s in Bangladesh. Since then, due to supportive policies of the
Government of Bangladesh (GoB), this industry has experienced a significant
growth. In 1988, the export-oriented RMG sector overtook the traditionally
dominant jute sector in terms of gross export accruals. And since then this sector
has continued to consolidate it predominant position in the export basket of
Bangladesh. According to data of 2003-2004 financial year, the export earnings of
the RMG sector was 5686.09 million US dollars, which constituted 74.79 percent of
total export earnings. The industry, which started with only a few factory units
during 1980s, now boasts 4094 factory units employing around 1.5 million workers.
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The garments products of Bangladesh include both knit and woven wear. Share of
knitwear in the total production of garment in Bangladesh is steadily increasing
over time. At present, knit wear accounts for about 33 percent of the total
production. Of the woven wears, high-value products are shirts, jackets, coats,
blouses, sportswear and many more casual and fashion apparels. Recent data shows
that production of these high value items either decreased over the years or
increased at a very nominal rate compared to other basic low value-added items
such as trousers or shorts. Thus, product diversification in the Bangladesh garment
industry has been rather slow and products are mainly low value-added or low-
fashion items. Of all the produced items in 2001-2, around 40 per cent were
exported to USA markets and 53 per cent were exported to the EU markets, with
Germany being the highest imported or Bangladeshi garments. However, data of
2003-4 shows that exports to EU has increased to 65 per cent.
2.9.1. Faces the Challenge of Globalization:
Bangladesh faces the challenge of achieving accelerated economic
growth and alleviating the massive poverty that afflicts nearly two-fifths of its
135 million people. To meet this challenge, market-oriented liberalizing policy
reforms were initiated in themid-1980s and were pursued much more
vigorously in the 1990s. These reforms were particularly aimed at moving
towards an open economic regime and integrating with the global economy.
During the 1990s, notable progress was made in economic performance.
Along with m a i n t a i n i n g e c o n o m i c s t a b i l i z a t i o n w i t h a
s i g n i f i c a n t l y r e d u c e d a n d d e c l i n i n g dependence on foreign aid, the
economy appeared to begin a transition from stabilization to growth. The average
annual growth in per capita income had steadily accelerated from about 1.6 per cent
per annum in the first half of the 1980s to 3.6 percent by the latter half of the 1990s.
This improved performance owed itself both to a slowdown in population growth
and a sustained increase in the rate of GDP growth, which averaged 5.2 percent
annually during the second half of the 1990s. During this time, progress
in the human development indicators was even more impressive.
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Bangladesh was in fact among the top performing countries in the 1990s, when
measured by its improvement in the Human Development Index (HDI) as
estimated by the United Nations Development Project ( U N D P ) . I n
t e r m s o f t h e i n c r e a s e i n t h e v a l u e o f H D I b e t w e e n 1 9 9 0 a n d
2 0 0 1 , Bangladesh is surpassed only by China and Cape Verde. While most low-income
countries depend largely on the export of primary commodities, Bangladesh has
made the transition from being primarily a jute-exporting country to
garm ent -exp or t ing one . Th i s t rans i t i o n has be en d i c ta ted by the
cou ntry ' s r e s our ce endowment, characterized by extreme land scarcity and a
very high population density, making economic growth dependent on the export of
labor-intensive manufactures. In the wake of the 2001 global recession,
Bangladesh's reliance on foreign countries as market for exports and as a source of
remittances has become obvious. If Bangladesh is to become less vulnerable to the
economic fortunes of others, it will need to strengthen its domestic economy,
creating jobs and markets at home. A strong domestic sector and an imp rov ed
ove ra l l inv es tme nt env i ro nment w i l l pro v id e a mor e s t ab l e source
o f income - like what the garment industry has provided so far - and will
rekindle and sustain Bangladesh's economic growth.
THE PROBLEMS AND PROEPECTS
3.1. Problems:
The garment industry of Bangladesh has been the key export division
and a main source of foreign exchange for the last 25 years. National
labor laws do not apply in the EPZs, leaving BEPZA in full control
over work conditions, wages and benefits. Garment factories in
Bangladesh provide employment to 40 percent of industrial workers.
But without the proper laws the worker are demanding their various
wants and as a result conflict is began with the industry. Low working
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NORTHERN UNIVERSITY BANGLADESH
salary is another vital fact which makes the labor conflict. Worker
made strike, layout to capture their demand. Some time bonus and the
overtime salary are the important cause of crisis. Insufficient
government policy about this sector is a great problem in Garments
Company.There is some other problems which are associated with this
sector. Those are- lack of marketing tactics, absence of easily on-hand
middle management, a small number of manufacturing methods, lack
of training organizations for industrial workers, supervisors and
managers, autocratic approach of nearly all the investors, fewer
process units for textiles and garments, sluggish backward or forward
blending procedure, incompetent ports, entry/exit complicated and
loading/unloading takes much time, time-consuming custom clearance etc.
There are many types of reasons for which problems are created or raised in the
garments industry which is below:
Raw materials: Bangladesh imports raw materials for garments like cotton,
thread color etc. This dependence on raw materials hampers the development of
garments industry. Moreover, foreign suppliers often supply low quality
materials, which result in low quality products
1. Unskilled workers: Most of the illiterate women workers employed in
garments are unskilled and so their products often become lower in quality.
2. Improper working environment: Taking the advantages of workers'
poverty and ignorance the owners forced them to work in unsafe and
unhealthy work place overcrowded with workers beyond capacity of the factory
floor and improper ventilation. Morning to evening to earn our countries the
major portion of our foreign exchange. Anybody visiting the factory the first
impression he or she will have that these workers are in a roost. Improper
ventilation, stuffy situation, filthy rooms are the characteristics of the majority
of our factories. The owners profit are the first priority and this attitude has
gone to such an extent that they do not care about their lives.
3. Lack of managerial knowledge: There are some other problems which
are associated with this sector. Those are- lack of marketing tactics, absence of
easily on-hand middle management, a small number of manufacturing methods,
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NORTHERN UNIVERSITY BANGLADESH
lack of training organizations for industrial workers, supervisors and managers,
autocratic approach of nearly all the investors, fewer process units for textiles
and garments, sluggish backward or forward blending procedure, incompetent
ports, entry/exit complicated and loading/unloading takes much time, time-
consuming custom clearance etc.
4. Gendered division of labor: In the garment industry in Bangladesh, tasks
are allocated largely on the basis of gender. This determines many of the
working conditions of women workers. All the workers in the sewing section are
women, while almost all those in the cutting, ironing and finishing sections are
men. Women workers are absorbed in a variety of occupations from cutting,
sewing, inserting buttons, making button holes, checking, cleaning the threads,
ironing, folding, packing and training to supervising.
5. Wages: The government of Bangladesh sets minimum wages for various
categories of workers. According of Minimum Wage Ordinance 1994,
apprentices’ helpers are to receive Tk500 and Tk930 per month respectively.
Apprentices are helpers who have been working in the garment industry for less
than three months. After three months, Apprentices are appointed as helpers.
Often female helpers are discriminated against in terms of wages levels, and
these wages are also often fixed far below the minimum wage rate. A survey
conducted in 1998 showed that 73% of female helpers, as opposed to 15% of
their male counterparts, did not receive even the minimum wage.
6. Insufficient of loan: Insufficiency of loan in time, uncertainly of
electricity, delays in getting materials, lack of communication, and problem in
taxes etc. Often obstruct the industry. In the world market 115 to 120 items of
dress are in demand where as Bangladesh supplies only ten to twelve items of
garments. India, south Korea, Hong Kong, Singapore, Thailand, Taiwan etc,
have made remarkable progress in garments industries. Bangladesh is going to
challenge the garments of those countries in the world market.
7. Unit labor cost: Unit labor cost: Bangladesh has the cheapest unit labor
cost in South Asia. It costs only 11 cents to produce a shirt in Bangladesh,
whereas it costs 79 cents in Sri Lanka and 26 cents in India. Clearly,
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NORTHERN UNIVERSITY BANGLADESH
Bangladesh’s comparative advantage lies in having the cheapest unit labor
cost.
8. Working hours: Though the wages are low, the working hours are very long.
The RMG factories claim to operate one eight-hour shift six days a week. The
1965 factory Act allows women to work delivery deadlines; however, women are
virtually compelled to work after 8 o’clock. Sometimes they work until 3 o’clock
in the morning and report back to start work again five hours later are 8
o’clock. They are asked to work whole months at a time the Factory Act, which
stipulates that no employee should work more than ten days consecutively
without a break.
9. Poor accommodation facilities: As most of the garment workers come
from the poor family and comes from the remote areas and they have to
attend to the duties on time, these workers have to hire a room near the
factory where four to five huddle in a room and spend life in sub human
condition.
10.Safety Problems: Because of the carelessness of the factory management and
for their arrogance factory doors used to be kept locked for security reason
defying act Safety need for the worker is mandatory to maintain in all the
organization. But without the facility of this necessary product a lot of accident
is occur incurred every year in most of the company. Some important cause of
the accident are given below-
Routes are blocked by storage materials
Lack of signage for escape route
Doors, opening along escape routes, are not fire resistant
Doors are not self-closing and often do not open along the direction of
escape
Ire exit or emergency staircase lacks proper maintenance
13. Price competitiveness: China and some other competitors of
Bangladesh have implemented sharp price-cutting policies in exporting garment
products over the last few years, but Bangladesh has failed to respond effectively to
such policies. China was able to drop the export price of 29 garment categories by 46
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per cent on average in the United States within a year, from $6.23 per sq meter in
December 2001 to $3.37 per sq meter in December 2002. Bangladesh needs to respond
to such price-cutting policies of its rivals in order to remain competitive in the quota-
free global market.
3.2. Prospects:
Bangladeshi Garment Industry is the largest industrial sector of the country.
Though the history of Readymade Garment Industry is not older one but
Bangladeshi clothing business has a golden history. Probably it started from the
Munhall age in the Indian subcontinent through Dhaka Muslin. It had global
reputation as well as demandable market around the globe especially in the
European market.
After industrial revolution in the west they were busy with technological
advancement & started outsourcing of ready made garments to meet up their daily
demands. Many LDCs took that chance & started ready made garment export at
that markets. As an LDC Bangladesh took this chance enjoyed quota & other
facilities of them. Thus ready made garment industry started to contribute in our
economy from late eighties (1977).
The history of the garment industry dates back to 1977 when the first consignment was
exported to then West Germany by Jewel Garments. The number of units, however,
remained a meager 46 until the end of 1983. From a humble beginning the sector has
thus made phenomenal growth over the last two decades, the number of units growing
to around 4500. The RMG industry achievement is noteworthy,
particularly for a country plagued with poor resource endowments and adverse
conditions for industrialization. Exports increased from approximately 32 million US
dollars in 1983/84 to 1.4 billion dollars in 1992/93. In 1987/88, the RMG export share
surpassed that of raw jute and allied products. The figure further rose to 5.7 billion
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dollars in 2003/04, representing a contribution of about 75 percent of the country's total
export earnings in that year. The employment generated by the sector is estimated to be
around 1.5 million workers.
Several factors account for the outstanding successes of the RMG industry in
Bangladesh. At the same time this industry had faced & till facing many problems also.
These problems & prospects of RMG industry in Bangladesh is my topic to find out as
well as to make critical analysis on these. The importance of my study has been raised
up by recent labor unrest in RMG sector.
Despite many difficulties faced by the RMG industry over the past years, it continued to
show its robust performance and competitive strength. The resilience and bold trend in
this MFA phase-out period partly reflects the imposition of ‘safeguard quotas’ by US and similar
restrictions by EU administration on China up to 2008, which has been
the largest supplier of textiles and apparel to USA. Other factors like
price competitiveness, enhanced GSP facil ity, market and product
diversification, cheap labor, i n c r e a s e d backward integration, high level of
investment, and government support are among the key factors that helped the country
to continue the momentum in export earnings in the apparel sector. Some of these elements
are reviewed below;
3.2.1. Market Diversification:
Bangladeshi RMG products are mainly destined to the US and EU. Back
in 1996-97, Bangladesh was the 7th and 5th largest apparel exporter to the USA
and European Union respectively. The industry was successful in exploring the
opportunities in markets away from EU and US. In FY07, a successful
turnaround was observed in exports to third countries, which having a
negative growth in FY06 rose three-fold in FY07, which helped to record
23.1 percent overall export growth in the RMG sector. It is anticipated that the
trend of market diversification will continue and this will help to
maintain the growth momentum of export earnings. At the same time a recent
WTO review points out that Bangladesh has not been able to exploit fully
the duty free access to EU that it enjoys. While this is pointed out to be due to
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stringent rules of origin (ROO) criteria, the relative stagnation in exports to EU
requires further analyst
3.2.2. Product Diversification:
The growth pattern of RMG exports can be categorized into two distinct phases.
During the initial phase it was the woven category, which contributed the most.
Second phase is the emergence of knitwear products that powered the recent double
digit (year-on-year) growth starting in FY04. In the globalize economy and ever-
changing fashion world, product diversification is the key to continuous
business success. The entrepreneurs of the RMG sector have also been able to
diversify the product base ranging from ordinary shirts, T-shirts,
trousers, shorts, pajamas, ladies and children’s wear to sophisticated
high value items like quality suits, branded jeans, jackets, sweaters,
embroidered wear etc. It is clear that value addition accrues mostly in the
designer items, and the sooner local entrepreneurs can catch on to this
trend the brighter be the RMG future
3.2.3. Backward Integration:
RMG industry in Bangladesh has already proved itself to be a resilient industry
and can be a catalyst for further industrialization in the country. However, this vital
industry still depends heavily on imported fabrics. After the liberalization of the
quota regime some of the major textile suppliers Thailand, India, China,
Hong Kong, Indonesia and Taiwan increased their own RMexports,
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Figure: Trend to back-to-back linkage
3.2.4. Flow of Investment:
It is plausible that domestic entrepreneurs alone may not be able to develop the textile
industry by establishing modern mills with adequate capacity to meet the growing RMG
demand. It is important to have significant flow of investment both in terms of
finance and technology. Figure 3 indicates that the investment outlook
in this sector is encouraging, although the uncertainties before the MF A
phase-out period caused a sluggish investment scenario. In part the
momentum in the post-MFA phase-out period is indicative of the efforts
underway towards capacity building through backward integration. This
is evident in the pace of lending to the RMG sector and in the rising
import share of RMG related machinery. However further progress would be necessary
to improve and sustain competitiveness on a global scald.
3.2.5 Policy Regime of Government:
Government of Bangladesh has played an active role in designing policy support to the
RMG sector that includes back-to-back L/C, bonded warehouse, cash
incentives, export credit guarantee scheme, tax holiday and related
facilities. Scheme through which domestic suppliers to export-oriented
RMG units receive a cash payment equivalent to 5 percent of the net
FOB value of exported garments. At the same time, income tax rate for
textile manufacturers were reduced to 15 percent from its earlier level
for the period up to June 30, 2008. The reduced tax rates and other
facilities are likely to have a positive impact on the RMG sector
3.2.6. Research and Training:
His country has no dedicated research institute related to the apparel
sector. RMG is highly fashion oriented and constant market research is necessary to
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become successful in the business. BGMEA has already established an
institute which offers bachelor’s degree in fa sh ion de s ign ing and
BKMEA is planning on setting up a research and t raining institute.
These and relate initiative Sneed encouragement possibly intermediated
by donor-assisted.
ANALYSIS AND FINDING
4.1. Strength:
RMG is the leading industry in Bangladesh. It is basically a labor-intensive industry
and it needs limited financial investment and relatively simple technology compared
to other high technical industries. The success story of Garment Industry in
Bangladesh is the story as to how the readymade garments starting in the late
seventies as an insignificant non-traditional item of export. In 1998-99 this sector
has earned 4019.98 million US$ through exporting which is75.67% of the total
export (Redwan, 1995).The tremendous success of Readymade Garment (RMG)
exports from Bangladesh over last two decades has surpassed the most optimistic
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expectations. At present Bangladesh is the 6th largest exporter to USA and in 1997
Bangladesh becomes 18th largest exporter in the world. Now Bangladesh ranks first
export of T-shirts to Europe (BGMEA, 1997-98) The overall impact of the
readymade garment export industry is certainly one of the most significant social
end economic developments in contemporary Bangladesh. The remarkable
achievement of RMG sector is now exposed to each and every country. Despite these
impressive achievements and the probable challenges in the near future, if properly
managed, the prospects for further expansion and growth for this sector remain
bright. There are some major threats still exits in this sector but Bangladesh has the
ability to overcome these threats. Readymade Garment (RMG) industry holds a key
position in the economy of Bangladesh interims of foreign exchange earning,
employment generation and poverty alleviation. Right now RMG sector is the
highest foreign currency earner in Bangladesh. Apart from contributing to huge
foreign exchange earnings, RMG industry has become the largest source of
employment generation. Around 2 million people are presently involved of whom
90% are distressed women the RMG industry of Bangladesh. In addition a rough
estimate shows that the sector through linkage effects is currently generating about
US$ 2 billion worth of domestic economic activities (Bhattacharya, 2000)RMG
industry is the most important sector for the economy of Bangladesh. It accounts
for 75.14% in 2000-2001 of the country total export earnings (BGMEA Newsletter,
2001) About1.5 million workers of whom 90% are distressed women are engaged in
about 3200 garment factories as on June 2000(BGMEA, 1997-98).It is largest
manufacturing sector contributing about 5% to the GDP.
4.2. Weakness:
In RMG sector, value-addition is 30% only because a RMG unit has to import 70%
of the total value of the product. The low value added represented that the
backward linkage industries such as fabrics and accessories, which directly feed into
the garment sector, have not satisfactorily developed. The weakest point of the
Bangladeshi apparel industry is that it is still at the mercy of the exterior suppliers
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of its main raw materials namely the fabrics. Right now Bangladesh has very limited
capacity to produce fabrics required by the RMG factories. Her competitors India,
Pakistan, Thailand, Malaysia and other countries have their textiles mills that can
produce quality fabrics for the respective apparel industries. This sector will remain
in intense competition in the context; it is very necessary to find out opportunities
and challenges of RMG industry of Bangladesh in order to face firm competition in
the free market environment. Japan is one of the potential markets for exports from
Bangladesh. Quality and fashion conscious Japan is importing readymade garments
from Bangladesh at an increasing rate even though this increase is very negligible.
An extremely large program has to be taken to increase the exports. There exists
supportive policy environment in the RMG sector of Bangladesh. The package of
textile sector incentive has been aimed at primarily to boost up the exporters.
Government has extended some major incentives and facilities for the local and
foreign investors to help increase investment in the country for all industrial sectors
including textiles and clothing Still there are some threats existing in our RMG
sector. According to the Ministry of Textiles, the local fabric manufacturers
currently supply less than 19% of total woven fabric requirement. About 70% of
the total fabric requirement of the knit sector is domestically produced as reported
by the BTMA. Textile policy 1995 envisages established of 246 spinning mills with
25000spindles each, 481 weaning mills each with capacity to produce 17 million
meters of fabrics, 481dyeing-printing-finishing units each with same capacity for
yarn and woven fabric by the year 2005. The findings show that the workers needed
significantly shorter time to produce a shirt of a given specification than the time.
4.3. Opportunity:
The hundred percent export-oriented RMG industries have experienced
phenomenal growth during the last 15 years. Within a very short period of time, it
has attained great importance in terms of its contribution to GDP, foreign exchange
earnings and employment and also as a vehicle of social changes. The export earning
data of Bangladesh, shows that in 19884-85, ready-made garment sector earned
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12.39 %( $116 million) of the total export. This was raised to 36.46 %($471 million)
in 1989-90. This share rapidly went up to 53.36 %($1064 million) in 1991-92.
Surprisingly, the share showed no increase for the last three years. Bangladesh
garments products are facing various barriers and difficulties in the international
market. Garments contribution to the total export earning remained constant at
around 52% for the last two years (52.84%) in 1994-95 and 52.63% in 1995-96. This
stagnant situation demands immediate attention of the international market
researcher and the government as well. This research therefore, attempts to assess
the present status of the RMG sector and suggests strategies to overcome the
present crises.
The most youthful export sector in Bangladesh, the RMG industry, has been
earning over 60% of the foreign currency for the country during the last few years.
In 1995, it contributed 66% to the nations total earning from export. The
membership of BGMEA, which started with 19 (Nineteen) in early 1983, has
reached 2383, as on August 31, 1996, increasing by 25% each year. Garment export
in value has been increasing on an average by 27% each year. As the rate of
increase (20%) per year, is expected to continue through the MFA phasing out
transition, growth prospect of apparel industry looks brighter (The Daily Sang bad:
1996).
Bangladesh has opportunities of expanding the market through the following
strategies.
i) Cost Effective Strategy
ii) New Product Development and Diversification Strategy
iii) Market Diversification Strategy
Combined together these three strategies calls for total quality management (TQM)
approach.
4.3.1. Cost Effective Strategy:
It has three ways to calculate cost effective strategy. These are given below:
a. Backward Integration
b. Labor Productivity Improvement
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c. Productivity of Bangladesh RMG Industry Increasing
4.3.2. Product Diversification Strategy:
An analysis of the product mix of the apparel industry reveals that, so far,
Bangladesh has been able to export very limited categories of products. The
factories of Bangladesh produce shirts, jackets, trousers and other garment; the
shares of these categories in the total production are estimated as follows:
Category Share (%)
Shirts 60.00
Jackets 11.00
Knits 10.00
Trousers 7.00
Others 11.50
As the above figure indicates, Bangladesh has concentrated in the production and
export of shirts. This means that there is a scope and actually a need of structural
change in product mix. Exporters are producing mostly those items on which quotas
are available. Besides, the products served mainly low and medium end markets.
The reason for this is the buyers decision to buy low priced items from Bangladesh.
This relatively narrow base of products may in future limit the market share and
the competitive edge of Bangladesh. Most of its competitors have much broader
product mix.
4.3.3. Market Diversification Strategy:
Bangladesh has concentrated only in a few markets. It has eyed for mostly USA,
Canada and Europe. About 46% of its total apparel exports go to the US markets
and 14% to Canada. The rest 40% go to EU and other European markets. The
competitors of Bangladesh, for example, India has continued to expand its trade,
diversify its markets and change product mix of its exports. As the recent
performances indicate, the production and marketing capabilities of Bangladesh
have increased substantially. But still it lacks the core competence necessary to stay
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in a highly competitive market which one can anticipate in post MFA period. If it
wants to maintain its world market share and competitive edge, it needs to diversify
its products and markets.
4.4. Threats: (Specialist in Finance, Audit and Risk
Management)
Many industry analysts have pointed out in the past and predicted some critical
threats, which could affect the garment industry of Sri Lanka, for the past 20 years
and these have become a reality now. Failure to implement appropriate timely
measures to effectively deal with such threats has driven the industry into turmoil
thereby putting the livelihoods of many hundreds of thousands of people directly at
risk.
The government has a right to deny unnecessary foreign interference in the internal
affairs of the country but it should endeavor to settle any differences by diplomatic
means and if it’s not possible, it needs to take adequate remedial steps to ameliorate
any unfavorable implications on society and the industry itself.It was reported that
the garment exporters will have to absorb an additional duty of nearly 8%-10% on
their exports if the current GSP+ scheme is terminated. This will inevitably increase
the selling prices of our garments in the European market, thereby making them
uncompetitive when compared to some other low-cost garment exporters like China
and those countries, which will continue to be part of GSP+. Currently, even with
these GSP+ duty concessions, most garment exporters are still faced with enormous
difficulty in remaining competitive and profitable due to the intensifying industry
competition and the strength of bargaining power of buyers (direct buyers and
buying offices), who set prices. Eventually this would reduce the demand for Sri
Lankan garments in foreign markets thereby depriving the country of some of its
foreign exchange earnings.
On the other hand, since these shares do not carry residual rights on the assets of
the firm (unlike ordinary shares), in consideration of the time value of the
redemption value (present value), this would effectively have some characteristics of
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a government grant (assuming no premium on redemption). As in the case of any
other preference shares, these shares would also require the firms to pay preference
dividends to the government out of their profits (if profitable) before paying
dividends to ordinary shareholders. Generally preference shares rank below
ordinary shares and above debt finance in terms of the return expected by investors
in consideration of their risks. In consideration of all these factors, these funds
would be a very low-cost source of finance with least strains on their costs
(profitability) and their cash flows. The magnitude of the benefits would be
determined by the conditions of the share issue including the dividend rates, the
premium on redemption, if any, and whether these shares will be subject to
accumulation of dividends. Firms issuing these shares will continue to show the
amount received from the government as a liability (preference share capital
effectively represents debt rather than equity) in their balance sheets. Assuming the
government will not request their redemption in the foreseeable future and no
obligation to pay dividends on these shares, still they would not be able to treat the
funds as a revenue (or reduction in costs) unless the government explicitly waives its
rights. Instead they can use those cash resources to finance their working capital
needs, long term investments or discharge other costly or maturing liabilities with
no worries over the cost and the repayment of the new finance. This will effectively
reduce the cost of financing and hence, can be treated as a cheaper source of
finance. On the other hand, it’s questionable as to what extent and how these funds
(even if the government relinquishes its rights) will be able to provide a cushion
against such impediments in the long term. Though this may be viable in the short
term, it seems sensible to focus on increasing the scale benefits, long-term cost
reduction.
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RECOMMENDATION & CONCLUSION
5.1. Recommendation:
Bangladesh economy at present is more globally integrated than at any time in the
past. The MFA phase-out will lead to more efficient global realignments of the
Garments and Clothing industry. The phase out was expected to have negative
impact on the economy of Bangladesh. Recent data reveals that Bangladesh
absorbed the shock successfully and indeed RMG exports grew significantly both in
FY06 and (especially) in FY07. Due to number of steps taken by the industry,
Bangladesh still remains competitive in RMG exports even in this post phase-
out period. Our Garments Industries can improve their position in the
world map by reducing the ov era l l pro b lems . Such as ma nag eme nt
l a bor con f l i c t , proper man age ment po l i cy , efficiency of the manager,
maintainable time schedule for the product, proper strategic plan etc. Government
also have some responsibility to improve the situation by providing- proper policy
to protect the garments industries, solve the license problem, quickly
loading facility in the port, providing proper environment for the work,
keep the industry free
From all kind of political problems and the biasness Credit must be
provided when the industry fall in need. To be an upper position holder in
the world Garments Sector there is no way except follow the above
recommendations. We hope by maintaining proper management
and policy strategies our country will take the apex position in future
5.2. Conclusions:
Ready-Made Garments (RMG) industry occupies a unique position in
the Bangladesh economy. It is the largest exporting industry in
Bangladesh, which experienced phenomenal growth during the last 25
years. By taking advantage of an insulated market under the provision
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of Multi Fiber Agreement (MFA) of GATT, it attained a high profile in
terms of foreign exchange earnings, exports, industrialization and
contribution to GDP within a short span of time. The industry plays a
key role in employment generation and in the provision of income to
the poor. To remain competitive in the post-MFA phase, Bangladesh
needs to remove all the structural impediments in the transportation
facilities, telecommunication network, and power supply, management
of seaport, utility services and in the law and order situation. The
government and the RMG sector would have to jointly work together
to maintain competitiveness in the global RMG mar ket. Given the
remarkable entrepreneurial initiatives and the dedication of its
workforce, Bangladesh can look forward to advancing its share of the
global RMG market.
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