A guide to Eco-gardening · Most garden waste (along with food scraps) can be reused as mulch, worm...

A guide to Eco-gardening

Creating your own EdenCreating your own Edenin Mosman

A N S W G O V E R N M E N T I N I T I A T I V E

O U R E N V I R O N M E N T

Produced by Resource NSW Resource NSW is a state government agency within the environmentportfolio.Visit their website www.resource.nsw.gov.au for information onhow to reduce waste. Downloadable ‘Easyguides’ are available offering valuableinformation on composting, worm farming, mulching, green cleaning andrecycling. Contact Resource NSW on 8837 6000 for more information.

Written by Peter Rutherford, a recognised expert in horticulture. Peter is awell known and respected advocate of sustainable gardening and horticulture.

© 2001 Resource NSW

Concept by Social Change MediaDesign by Zebra CommunicationIllustrations by Fran Low

Gardening in Mosman

When we think of the natural environment of Mosman wegenerally think of bushland, creeks and Sydney Harbour.Gardens however, are also a significant part of the local naturalenvironment.They provide important habitat and food sourcesfor animals and exhibit a wide diversity of plants.

Mosman Council manages bushland, creeks and water qualitywith the help of the Community Environmental Contract.

The way that you manage and design your garden can have asignificant influence on the environment too – both good andbad.This is particularly relevant in Mosman as there are manygardens, including some in close proximity to bushland.

This book has been produced to help you design and manageyour garden so that it is a practical and attractive space foryour family, as well as one that complements local bushlandand reduces waste and pollution.

Get gardening and be a positive part of Mosman’s uniqueenvironment!

CONTENTS

page 2 - IntroductionEco-gardening reduces wasteThe Eco-gardener philosophy

page 5 - The 7 key principles of Eco-gardeningEVE and ADAM

page 8 - 1 Low-waste gardening

page 13 - 2 Eco-lawn management

page 17 - 3 Eco-compost management

page 20 - 4 Eco-worm management

page 23 - 5 Eco-mulch management

page 26 - 6 Eco-weed management

page 28 - 7 Eco-soil management

page 29 - 8 Eco-flower and vegie garden enjoyment

page 30 - 9 Eco-pest control

page 32 - 10 Bushland friendly gardens

page 34 - Definitionspage 35 - Further resourcespage 35 - Council resourcespage 36 - Eco-garden librarypage 37 - Internet resourcespage 38 - Notes

Printed on 100% recycled paper

Eco-gardening reduces waste

Eco-gardening removes food and garden organics from the garbagebin.This is vital because when food and garden organics are notremoved, they end up buried in landfills (ie garbage tips). Landfillsbecome compacted and no oxygen can move through them. This iscalled an anaerobic environment.

In this kind of environment, food & gardenorganics release large amounts of naturalacids. These acids ooze through the otherthings we throw away — batteries, plastics,poisons, etc — and create a toxic liquidcalled leachate. Leachate from landfills canpollute ground water and streams.

Eco-gardening also saves you time and money, and creates beautiful, abundant gardens.

About this booklet

This booklet outlines natural techniques to: ● manage lawns ● make compost● make natural fertiliser with worm farms● apply mulch● improve soils● manage weeds and pests● create abundant flower

and vegie gardens ● reduce chemical use

in the garden● provide habitat for native

fauna

Many of these techniques will contribute to the health of localwaterways and bushland by reducing polluted run-off from your garden.

2 3

INTRODUCTIONEco-gardeners don’t throw away organic waste, they cycle itback onto gardens as a source of nutrients and to improve thecondition of soil. They also consider how their gardening practices could affect the environment beyond the back fence.Typically, they take steps to minimise the possibility of weedsinvading the local bushland and pollution entering waterways.

Eco-gardening practices outlined in this booklet will help youreduce the amount of waste that leaves your household andprotect and enhance your local environment.

Eco-gardeninghelps to remove

dangerous pollutantsfrom our streams and waterways.

Creating your own Eden a guide to Eco-gardening

the cycleof nature

The 7 key principles of Eco-gardening

Eco-gardening is based on seven key principles. If you keep theseprinciples in mind, the ecological answer to any garden problem willbe easy.

These key eco-gardening principles are sometimes called EVE andADAM principles. EVE stands for Energy, Vitality, Everlasting andADAM stands for Aliveness, Diversity, Aeration, Moisture.

EVEThe EVE principles are about conservation and restoration.

ENERGYUse energy wisely and conserve energy whenever you can. Repair and reuse everything you can. Recycle anything that cannot be reused.

VITALITYSupport vitality by increasing biodiversity,replacing synthetic fertilisers with organic fertilisers, and using lesspoisonous herbicides and pesticides in the garden. Vitality means the power or ability to thrive and keep growing. Biodiversity is the key to vitality.

EVERLASTINGContribute to true sustainability by applying the principles of eco-gardening and learning to live moreclosely with natural systems. You will see how everything (includingus) is dependent on other things for survival. Soil produces almost allof the food we eat, we eat the food and the food scraps left overbecomes waste, we compost the waste and this produces a rich soilsupplement that contains billions of microbes. We put this back intothe soil, the soil is enriched and it all begins again.

The Eco-gardening philosophy

Eco-gardening comes from the word ecologyand ecology refers to the co-operativerelationships between organisms and theirenvironment.

The following ideas help to explain ecologymore clearly:● Ecology accepts that every living thing is

dependent on other living things for survival. ● Ecology is about diversity and respect for difference.

Each organism and ecosystem is different and all are as important as each other.

● Ecology is about diverse and abundant life and energy and vitality.

● Ecology is about applying common sense and understanding ecosystems in more detail.

There are lots of things we can do to encourage diversity, energy and vitality in our gardens and create gardens that are in harmony with the natural balance.

Ecologyaccepts that

every living thingis dependent on

other living thingsfor survival.

vitalityeverla

sting

4 5Creating your own Eden a guide to Eco-gardening

ener

gy

AERATION Keep gardens naturally aerated.

Aeration is the movement of oxygenthrough the soil. Oxygen is critical to plant health.

Photosynthesis happens above the ground, through a plant’s leaves. The plant takes in carbon dioxide from the air and releases water and oxygen.

In the soil, the opposite is true. Plant roots need oxygen to breathe and stay healthy. Living organisms (such as worms) will burrow andmove through the soil and this creates a natural aeration system.

MOISTUREStrive for a balance between air and water.

All life requires moisture. As an eco-gardener, we strive to make themost of any moisture that is available. We can do this by addingsurface mulch to garden soil to reduce evaporation, improving soilfiltration and increasing the organic material in the soil. Increasingorganic matter increases the water holding capacity of your soil —more water soaks in and more is held.

ADAMThe ADAM principles are the practical tools we can use to maintain the EVE principles.

ALIVENESSThe primary aim of an Eco-gardener is to encourage anabundance of life in the garden.

This helps create vitality andincreases plant’s natural resistanceto insects and disease.

Abundant life also helps nature’s fertilising system (we call it decomposition), which needsbillions of living microbes to workwell and fast.

DIVERSITYDiversity means variety. It meansvariety in the type of plants wechoose, the organic materials weput back into the soil, and the lifewe encourage above and belowthe soil surface.

Diversity is the strength of everyecosystem anywhere on the planet.

Studies suggest that increasing microbial diversity in the soil canimprove plants’ natural resistance to insects and diseases.

We can promote microbial diversity by adding a variety of organicmaterials to the soils. For example, we can add high carbon materialssuch as garden prunings, leaf litter and recycled organics*, as well as high nitrogen materials such as food scraps or manures.

alive

nes

sdi

vers

ity

aeration

moistu

re


* Go to page 34 for definitions of terms marked by this asterisk.

You can become a low-waste gardener with good planning. Good planning can reduce the maintenance the garden will need andtherefore the amount of garden waste that will be produced.Most garden waste (along with food scraps) can be reusedas mulch, worm food or compost.

Consider these low-waste tips.

Planning a new landscape

When planning a new landscape, consider the design of the garden,how it will be used, the choice of plants, the use of water, how thegarden will be maintained and how garden waste will be re-used.

Make sure a space is allocated for composting and storing mulch. This can be as small as one square metre for each.

When choosing and placing plants, think about how they will grow inthe future – for example, will the mature plant or tree be far enoughaway from buildings or power lines so pruning will not be required.

Consider having less lawned areas. Less lawn means less watering, fertilising and mowing. (If you do have lawn, see page 12 of this booklet for tips on efficient eco-management of lawns.)

Watering

Careful water management will enhance your garden,save water and minimise the potential for stormwater

pollution.

Here are some ways to use less water and get bet-ter value from the water you do use.

● Always have a mulch covering the soil surface asthis reduces water lost by evaporation.

● Minimise hard surfaces to reduce runoff and retain your ownrainwater.

1 LOW-WASTE GARDENING


Minimiselawn area

Vegi

e beds

Mulch storageCompost bays or bins

Fruit trees

Mulch

Rainwater tank

Drip

irrigationsystem

toreduce

waterneeds

SCALE: 1cm = 1 metre

● Choose an irrigation system to target particular plants. This will save water and reduce unwanted growth ofweeds. Drip irrigation systems and micro-sprays are cost effective and conserve water.

● Install rainwater tanks.

Pruning and maintaining your garden

Pruning trees & shrubs is an important part of maintaining any garden.

Here are some ways to reduce the amount of pruning a gardenneeds and re-use the garden waste from pruning.

● Shape trees and shrubs early in life to ensure a desired structure and then let them grow in natural shapes with minimal pruning.

● Re-use pruned branches. Chop them up with secateurs or shredthem with a mechanised shredder and use as mulch or on the compost heap.

● Re-use leaves as mulch or on the compost heap.

● Use garden waste as mulch or compost on site. If you have toomuch, Mosman Council provides amonthly green waste collection. Checkyour waste calendar or call 99784000 for more information.

● Care should be given to the timing ofmost pruning. Limit major pruning until after theplant has finished flowering.

● When pruning, cut the branch justabove a ‘node’ (joint) and cut ata slope to allow water torun off. This greatlylessens the risk of disease.

● Consider putting in some mounds or ‘swales’ in appropriate places inthe garden, to slow down any rain water run-off and give it time tosoak in.

● Increase organic matter (compost & humus) in the soil. This acts like an ‘organic sponge’ and means the soil can hold andstore much more water.

● Water deeply and less often. This will produce a deeper, moreextensive root system that improves the plant’s ability to resist disease and insect attack.

● Water in the early morning as less water will be lost byevaporation, water pressure will be at its peak, and the risk offungal disease will be reduced.

Rainwater Tanks

As an Eco Gardener, an important idea to consider is to have yourown rainwater tank, and encourage others to install one. Saving someof our precious rainwater which falls on our roofs is a wonderful thingto do for many reasons. Here are some of them:

● A tank saves you money and helps conserve your most vitalresource, fresh water.

● It reduces the amount of storm-water running off into streams.● The water you collect contains no chlorine or fluorine and can be

used on your garden or easily filtered as pure drinking water.● It is an insurance in case the mains water supply becomes

contaminated.

For more information about water tanks contact Mosman Council on9978 4000 or look under Tanks and Tank Equipment in the YellowPages. In Mosman, development consent is not required for theinstallation of rainwater tanks so long as they comply with a number ofconditions set out in Mosman Council’s Exempt and ComplyingDevelopment Control Plan. Contact Council on the number above or visitwww.mosman.nsw.gov.au for a copy.


Tips for successful grass cycling

In a year, grass clippings from 100 square metres of lawn will pro-duce about 2.5 kg of nitrogen. This is about the same amount ofnitrogen that a lawn this size needs in a year.

● Cut the grass when it is dry.● Mow the lawn regularly, so grass clippings are small and remove

about 1/3 of the length of the grass in any one mowing.● Keep mower blades sharp.● Raise the mowing height in summer to prevent getting too much

cut grass on the lawn. This will also encourage deeper roots andhelp protect grass from drought and heat damage.

You can grass cycle with most mowers

Just remove the grass catcher.

If your mower does not have a safety flap over the opening where the catcher fits into the chute (or a moulded plug for the chute), go to your nearest mower shop and buy a retrofit kit.

Or, get a mulching mower. A mulching mower cuts the grass into small pieces and forces it into the turf.

Managing a lawn as an eco-gardener is about using as few resourcesas possible and re-using the garden organics that are produced.Keeping your lawns healthy and free of barepatches looks great and reduces thepotential for run-off to carry sediment(soil) into waterways as a pollutant.

Grass cycling

Grass clippings usually make up about half of all garden organics, or more in areas with big lawns.

Large amounts of water, fertiliser andlabour go to produce these clippings, so it makes sense to use these valuable resources.

Grass clippings can be re-used directly back onto the lawn. This is often called grasscycling. Just make sure clippings stay out of drains.

2 ECO-LAWN MANAGEMENT

Studies suggestthat every year, theaverage lawn creates

between 130 to 180 kgs of grass clippings per

10 sq metres. This can be as much as 18 to 20tonnes per hectare

each year.

To grass cycle, simply leave the clippings on the lawn as you mow. These clippings willdecompose and release valuablenutrients back to the soil.

Why grass cycle

● Grass cycling saves you time and energy. It cuts yourmowing time in half because you don’t have to collectand dispose of grass clippings.

● Grass cycling saves you money. You will need lesswater and fertiliser and there are no landfill fees.

● Grass cycling encourages a healthier lawn as clippingscontain valuable nutrients.

● Grass cycling saves valuable space in landfills and helpseliminate pollution from organic acids in rotting waste.


Ways to use grass clippings on-site

● Sprinkle thinly (5cm) on the surface of any flower or vegie gar-den. Fresh grass clippings make very good high-nitrogen mulch. Older grass clippings are still good mulch but have less nitrogen.

● Put clippings down in a thick layer (10-15cm) around the edge of a garden to stop unwanted plant growth in the area.

● Add clippings to the compost heap in a thick layer (10-15cm) (see Chapter 3 – Eco-Compost Management).

Watering

Watch for run-off when watering. This indicates over-watering whichis unhealthy for plants, costs you money and can cause pollution tobe carried into the stormwater.

Water lawns deeply and less often to encourage deep root systems. This helps to protect the lawn from stress and disease.

Fertilising

Fertilising simply means providing whatever nutrients the lawn needs to stay healthy. These nutrients can come from any source — for example, grass cycling is an excellent source.

Tips for fertilising

● Apply small amounts of fertiliser often, rather than large amounts less often.

● Where possible, use organic and slow-release fertilisers.This reduces the potential for fertilisers to be carried into thestormwater where it acts as a pollutant.

● Consider top-dressing with high-grade compost fines*.

● Consider fertilising in autumn. This encourages root growth and thickening of the lawn, without causing lots of top growth.

Mowing

Sometimes, conventional mowing andcatching the clippings may still be required —for example, in areas near the entrance to

buildings or around swimming pools.Using these clippings on-site is still the

best ecological and economical solution.

Common questions about grass cycling

Does grass cycling cause thatch build-up? NO. Studies have shown that the main cause of thatch is grassroots, not grass clippings. Thatch is made up of roots, stems,rhizomes, crowns, and stolons. All these materials contain large amounts of lignin (wood), sothey decompose slowly. Grass clippings are about 80% waterwith only a small amount of lignin, so it decomposes quickly.

Does grass cycling spread lawn disease? NO. The main cause of disease spread is improper wateringand/or fertilising. See pages 8 and 15 for information about efficient watering and fertilising.

Will grass cycling make my lawn look bad? NO. If the lawn is properly mowed, watered and fertilised, grass cycling will actually produce a healthier-lookinglawn. Remember to cut the lawn regularly so the clippings aresmall and can fall between the standing grass. This will helpthem to decompose rapidly.


Composting is a very important process for Eco-gardening. It removes organic matter* from thewaste stream* and is the best way to createhumus* – the essential ingredient for a vibrant,healthy, everlasting Eco-garden.

Compost enclosures

Any type of compost bin or enclosure will work well if the ADAM principles are followed. However, bigger volume bins are better (over 200 litres) as they can keep in more of the heat and moisture.

A compost enclosure does not need to take up a lot of space inyour garden. A space as small as one square metre is all that isrequired to establish a system to circulate nutrients between yourhome and garden.

Compost enclosures can be made of timber, bricks and othermaterials. Try to re-use materials if you can.

Compost bins can be bought from Mosman Council, hardwarestores and nurseries. Call 9978 4000 for more information onpurchasing compost bins.

Nurturing your compost

You need to keep your compost heap healthy so itbreaks down organic matter quickly.Fast decomposition deters pestsand provides you with morecompost for your garden.

To look after your compost heapapply the ADAM principle…

ALIVENESSComposting creates an explosion of microbial life. This abundance of

Alternatives to lawns

Lawns are great for entertaining and recreation, but you might wantto consider replacing some lawn area with plants and features thatare productive or a natural part of your local environment. See chapter 8 on Vegie Gardensand Chapter 10 on Bushland Friendly Gardens.

Some lawn could be replaced with:

● trees or shrubs – these can be easier tolook after as well as providing shade and ahabitat for birds.

● appropriate ground cover plants for all but the busiest areas.

● a productive vegetable garden.

3 ECO-COMPOST MANAGEMENT

Humus is nature’s

gold.


life breaks down organic matter and helps to create the vitality aplant needs to thrive and resist insects and disease.

DIVERSITYA compost heap needs lots of different materials for it to work well.For example, compost needs a variety of high nitrogen materials(like food scraps, manures and fresh grass clippings) as well as arange of high carbon materials, (like leaf litter, cut or shreddedbranch and garden prunings and woodchips).

When adding to your compost heap, try to add at least equalvolumes (or more) of high carbon material to the high nitrogenmaterial.

AERATIONCompost needs plenty of air if it is to work fast and smell ‘sweet’. ● Ensure that regular amounts of coarse, high carbon materials are

added to the heap. ● Turn or mix the heap regularly, say every two to three weeks.

Lift the bin off and fork materials back into bin or transfermaterials from one compost enclosure to the next enclosure, oruse a corkscrew compost turning tool.

MOISTURECompost is a ‘living creature’ and all living creatures need water to survive.

Compost heaps should be about as moist as a lightly squeezedsponge, that is, about 50 to 60 % moisture. Whenever you areturning your compost, check moisture and add water if required.

To help keep your compost moist, collect unused cups of tea,coffee, soft drink, pickle juice and even dishwashing water from thesink in your kitchen food organics bucket

Composting requires a balance between air and water. If the heap istoo dry, everything will stop! If it is too wet, it will smell bad!

Compost trouble shooting

Problem Solution

Smelly More aeration,compost more diversity,

less moisture.

Compost too slow More aeration/turning,more diversity, check moisture.

No worms in heap More aeration, more diversity,more moisture.

Excess vinegar flies More aeration, more diversity, check moisture.

Mice or cockroaches More turning, more moisture.

Ants in heap More turning, more moisture.


COMPOSTING WEEDSPre-treating some plants beforecomposting can reduce thespread of weeds. This treatmentis ideal for plants that have goneto seed or for plants thatreproduce from bits that breakoff. One way is to submergeplants in water in a bucket with alid. In a month or so you should have a bucket of slimy ‘soup’ to add to the compost heap.

You can do the same thing in a large garbage bag – add 2 cups ofwater and tie at the top.

When applyingcompost aroundtrees, keep it inthe ‘dripline’ zone,so it stays clear ofthe trunk

dripline

Worms are amazing creatures! They are livingtubes of natural plant fertiliser, full of lots ofuseful bacteria and enzymes. Worms arealways moving around in the soil, looking forrotting organic matter and dead bacteria toeat. Their search makes holes for air and waterto enter the soil, and they don’t just eat therotting material, they turn it into rich plant food.

The earthworm plays a vital role in keeping horticultural andagricultural systems alive and fertile.

Working with wormsThere are a number of ways to work with worms.

1. Manage a worm farm

Worm farms can be purchased from Mosman Council (call 9978 4000), hardware stores and nurseries. These systems arefed with kitchen food scraps.● Locate the worm farm in a place which is warm but not hot,

especially in summer. Worms like an average soil temperaturebetween 18 and 25 deg C.

● Ensure that excess water can drain freely from the worm bedding.

● Leave the tap open all the time with a container underneath to collect the valuable liquid. Dilute and use on plants: 5 parts water + 1 part worm juice.

● Feed with a variety of food scraps and not too much of any onething.

● Wrap food scraps in newspaper before adding. ● Keep the surface covered with newspaper and/or hessian bags.

CharlesDarwin called

the worm‘Nature’sPlough’

4 ECO-WORM MANAGEMENT ● Keep the system moist at all times.● Once a month, clean out the bottom liquid collection tray.● Once a month, sprinkle a teaspoon of garden lime or dolomite or

ash from wood fire in with the food scraps being added. This willstop the system becoming too acidic

2. Manage a worm system sited directly in the garden

Set up a food scrap worm system that flows directly into the garden.● Find a well-drained area in the garden.● Build a border of bricks or logs on the garden that goes all the

way round the area proposed for your worm system. One squaremetre is big enough with the border at least 25cm high.

● If there are rodents in the area, line the base and sides of the enclosure with chicken mesh (fine). You may also need a lid to keep rodents out.

● Feed with a variety of food scraps andnot too much of any one thing.

● Wrap food scraps in newspaper beforeadding to worm farm to discourageflies.

● Always add a couple of handfuls ofsoil on top of the food scraps.This supplies the worms withgrit they need for grinding, and also encourages theworms to come right up thesurface.

● Keep the food surfacecovered with newspaperand/or hessian bags.

● Keep the system moist at all times.


Mulching means adding organic matter to the soilsurface. This could be anything from leaf litterto lucerne hay to commercial mulch to lawnclippings, etc.

It makes sense to cover as much of your soilas possible with mulch. Collecting leaves formulch from around your home helps to keepthem out of local waterways.

Mosman Council can generally provide mulch for free - call 9978 4000.

Advantages of adding mulch to your garden

There are huge benefits to adding mulch to your garden regularly. ● Less water loss due to evaporation (up to 80% saving in water).● Less weed growth and germination of unwanted seeds.● More valuable nutrients in the soil as mulch decomposes.● Helps maintain an even soil temperature, increasing

the ability of plants to resist insect and diseaseattack.

● More worm activity near the surface where it isessential for water infiltration, for increasingthe availability of nutrientsto plants, and for aerationaround roots.

● Less potential for sediment(soil) to be carried away byrun-off

When applying mulches to your garden

Know your mulch. Every type of mulch is different and will have adifferent effect on the soil. For example, some mulches are high innitrogen, while others are low in nitrogen. Mulches that are low in

3. Encourage more earthworms back into the garden

Start by always having a layer of organic mulch on the surface of thesoil — for example, you could use grass clippings, leaves, commercialmulches, shredded garden prunings, newspaper, hessian or jute sacks.● Keep increasing the

diversity of mulches thatare added to the garden.

● Keep garden soil moist.● Add ‘pockets’ of worm

casts under your mulch.Take castings and someworms from your wormsystem. These surface (compost) worms willencourage back the deeperliving worms as well.

5 ECO-MULCH MANAGEMENT

In nature, the earth is rarely

uncovered unless therehas been some distur-bance like heavy rain,

fire or animals digging.

What are worm castings?

The black, solid, soil-like substance atthe base of the worm farm is calledcastings. It is really just worm pooh.Castings are rich in nutrients, usefulbacteria and enzymes and will alsoencourage worms back into the soil.When you apply worm castings toyour soil, it is OK if there are wormsin it too.

Feeding worms

Be careful not to overfeed worms.

A worm can eat about half its body weight in a day. One thousandworms weighs about 250gms. That means 1000 worms can eat about125gms of fresh food material each day.

If all is well in the worm farm, the populationwill double every couple of months.

If your worm system is starting to smell,you are probably overfeeding.

Chop the food up small. The smaller thefood scraps are chopped, the quicker theworms can eat them. (Some people even use ablender to chop up the scraps before feeding them to the worms!)


Diversity is the key

Research suggests it is good to use a variety of mulches on yourgarden. A variety of mulches will make sure that a balance of nutrientsis released into the soil and that there is a diversity of microbes. Thisdiversity helps plants to develop a natural resistance to diseases andinsects.

There is an enormous diversity in recycled organics* collected fromhomes in towns and cities that you can buy for your garden. Look forthe Australian Standard AS4454 for quality assurance.

leaves

strawor lucerne

wood or bark

newspaper

Nitrogen drawdown

When any mulch is added to soil, microbes will try to breed quicklyso they can decompose it. To do this, the microbes need adequateamounts of nitrogen.

If there is not enough nitrogen in the freshly applied mulch, then themicrobes will rob available nitrogen from the soil around them. Thisnitrogen ‘robbing’ will temporarily deplete the available nitrogen fromthe soil under the mulch. Any plants in this area will start to show symptoms of nitrogen deficiency (that is, leaves will start turningyellow). This process is called nitrogen drawdown.

How to avoid nitrogen drawdown

To avoid nitrogen drawdown, you will first need to learn whichmulches are rich in nitrogen (N) and which are poor in N. Forexample, fresh young lawn clippings and lucerne hay are high innitrogen while old lawn clippings, leaf litter, straw hay and woodymulches are low in nitrogen.

Apply an organic matter that is high in nitrogen to the soil BEFOREyou apply a mulch that is low in nitrogen. For example, if you want toput down a mulch of leaf litter, add manure (Dynamic Lifter or cow orsheep manure) or blood and bone or lucerne hay, to the soil beforehand.

nitrogen can cause a response called nitrogen drawdown (see boxon above for details).

Tips for successful mulching include:

● Leave freshly shredded garden mulch for 4-6 weeks before applying it to gardens with young plants growing. Or, use it on pathways or on the edge of the garden to slow down or inhibit the growth of unwanted plants.

● Consider living ground covers as mulch.

Can Eucalyptus or camphor laurel leaves be used as mulch?These are fine in compost in average amounts. They are slow todecompose but can be sped up somewhat by adding some more highnitrogen materials such as manures, pelletised or fresh. They’re also fineto use as mulch, BUT NOT FRESH, as they release growth suppressantchemicals which continue to be exuded for up to 8 weeks or so.

living mulch

grass clippings


garden prunings

shredded

chips

● Apply mulch in thin layers (5-10cm), keeping it away from thetrunks of trees and woody stems of shrubs.

make sure to dispose of or compost weeds so theydon’t get into the stormwater or local bushland(see Chapter 3 – Eco-Compost Management).

Large weedsFor large weeds with roots you can cut them off atground level and leave the roots in place. Then cover the roots withenough mulch to ensure no sunlight gets through. The root system isa valuable organic matter and will slowly decompose, leavingpassages for air and water to enter the garden

For information about problem weeds in your local area call Mosman Council on 9978 4000.

Weeds will grow anywhere there is bare soil and sunlight.

To minimise weeds in your garden:● choose plants suited to your site so they grow healthy

and strong ● add to the health and vitality of your garden with

layers of compost and mulch. ● fill in bare patches with plants or thick layers of mulch● learn about plant lifecycles to know the best time and method to

control weeds● be familiar with what weeds to expect when in your garden● remove weeds before they reproduce, then compost them to

extract nutrients for the soil (see Chapter 3 Eco-Compost Management)

The term “weed” is often used to describe a plant that is growing inthe wrong place. Even so-called weeds can provide the same valuablefunctions as plants, such as: ● Extract and concentrate nutrients from the soil and make

them available to other plants via mulching or composting.● Attract beneficial predator insects.● Attract bees and other pollinating insects.● Increase the bio-diversity above and within the soil.● Indicate soil conditions such as acidity, salinity, low organic mat-

ter, plant nutrient imbalances etc.

The ‘golden rule’ for weed management

Disturb the soil as littleas possibleIf you’re ‘weeding’ yourgarden pull plants out gently,cover the soil with mulch and

For commercialcontrol ofunwanted plants

Flame Guns and SteamWand systems providepractical alternatives to poisonous herbicides.For more informationabout these, ask at your local nursery orhardware store.

6 ECO-WEED MANAGEMENT


Soil is full of life and activity. We are only just starting to understand how complex it is.

Soil life can easily be damaged by chemicals or synthetic fertilisers. Too much digging can also

damage the natural structure and life support systems in the soil.

If any of your plants are showing signs of sickness orstress, then the problem probably starts with the soil and good soilmanagement will help.

For good soil management

● Add organic matter to the soil continually to encourage earth-worms in the garden.

● Mulch the soil with a diversity of organic matter.● Minimise areas of bare soil so heavy rains

don’t wash away valuable soil● Increase the diversity of plants growing in

the soil.● Ensure adequate drainage by mounding up

garden beds to allow excess water to drain away.

● Dig as little as possible.

Flowers are an important part of any garden.

Growing your own vegetables is a wonder-ful thing to do. If you grow them the Eco-gardening way (using compost, manures and other organic matter), you will getvibrant, healthy vegetables that have no poisonous contamination from pesticides.

For a vibrant flower or vegie garden

● Ensure that vegetables get full sun for at least 4-5 hours everyday.

● Each season, let one or two of each vari-ety go to seed.

● Consider planting seeds in the correct‘moon’ phase. For example, planting andtransplanting of many species is often moresuccessful when done on a waxingmoon (ie, before the full moon) than ona waning moon (ie, after the fullmoon). Moon phase plantingcharts are available from manybookshops and health foodshops.

● Every time you plant a newplant, add 1 or 2 litres ofcompost to the surface.

● Water deeply and less often.● Plant a diverse mix of plants throughout the garden. ● Mulch continually with a diversity of mulches.

8 ECO-FLOWER AND VEGIE GARDEN ENJOYMENT

7 ECO-SOIL MANAGEMENT

Soil is theheart of any

garden.Flowers attract

pollinating insectsand natural

predators to yourgarden.


There is no such thing as a pest, only creatures living inplaces where we don’t want them to be. These creatures

(in their natural balance) are vital to the health ofyour garden.A natural balance in a garden can

take several years to achieve. It is achieved bydiversity in the soil and in the plants growingin the soil. In the time it takes for the naturalbalance to be achieved, some insects canincrease in numbers. The first thing manygardeners do is reach for poisonouschemicals. However, we now know that thesechemicals are poisoning much more that the‘pests’. Human beings can also be poisoned by them.

Here are some eco-gardening ways to keep the more destructiveinsects down while the natural balance is being established.

For a better insect & disease management

● Continually aim to increase microbial diversity in your soil by using a variety of mulches.

● Seek information about insect lifecycles to understand whatenvironments they are attracted to and when is thebest time to control them.

● Wander around your garden regularly to detectproblems at an early stage.

● Plant diversely, whether you are plantingtrees, shrubs, or vegetables.

● Plant a variety of bird attracting bushes andshrubs. For information about these bushesand shrubs, see the George Adams Birdscapingbook (listed on page 36).

9 ECO-PEST CONTROL

Many beneficial predatorinsects, for exampleladybirds, are also

killed by thesechemicals.


● Save seeds from any annual plants that show natural resistance.● Encourage, establish or introduce biological controls, for example

birds, lizards, frogs, spiders. Lizards can eat a lot of snails.

Barriers and hand control methods for Eco Pest control

● Set beer traps for snails & slugs, pull offcaterpillars and collect snails,squash and compost them,(pieces of terracotta pipemake good collectionvessels). Physically thinningdown the breedingpopulation can make a hugedifference in reducing theirdamage.

● A ring of Sawdust, sand or diatomaceous earth (used inswimming pools) can protect new seedlings from snails.

● Use a clear cylinder, made by cutting the top and bottomoff a 1.25 litre PET drink bottle, to protect new seedlingsuntil they are established.

● Place copper bands on trees or on the ground, as theseprovide a barrier that snails and slugs will not cross.


10 BUSHLAND FRIENDLY GARDENING

Your garden can provide important habitat and foodsources for local native fauna. The characteristics of aplant will determine the types of birds and animalsattracted to your garden.

Plant your garden in ‘layers’ with a diverse range of plants to attractdiverse local native inhabitants.

Often gardens with a wide range of habitats are the ones we’re alsoattracted to.

Native plants can be easier to grow than introduced species.Generally they require less water and fertilisers. Mosman Councilcan provide a list of recommended plant species - call 9978 4000.

Attracting Native Fauna

● A dense bush with spikes may attract small native birds seekingshelter and protection.

● Help wrens move around your garden with thick ground covers,tufted and clumping plants (like ferns or bracken), and denseshrubs and climbers that sprawl over the ground and hang overshrubs. Wrens hop rather than fly and need layers of plantmaterial for freedom of movement.These plants will also provide hiding spots for skinks, lizards andother ground dwelling native mammals like bandicoots

● Taller shrubs and trees provide hollows for nesting and nectarbearing flowers for food.

● Trees with tall, big branches and lots of foliage are ideal for owls.● Dead branches, rocks, and logs are excellent hiding and breeding

places for lizards and frogs to keep insect numbers down. Frogsin your garden indicates a healthy spot.

● Provide a permanent water supply

Enhancing your Bushland Garden

● Minimise pesticide use. Pesticides are chemicals that may disruptthe whole ecosystem of your garden. Seek advice and chooseplants suited to your garden so they grow healthy and strong, notsusceptible to insect attack. See Chapter 9 – Eco-pest Control.

● Keep pets inside at night.● Be aware of what problem weeds in your local area look like and

the best way to remove them from your garden.

Garden prunings and grass clippings dumped in bushland is a disaster,spreading diseases and weeds that smother native plants.


AerobicAn environment with oxygen

AnaerobicAn environment without oxygen

BiodiversityBiological variety, such as different plants, animals and mulches

Compost finesRecycled organics product with small particle size.

HumusWhat’s left when plant or animal tissue decomposes. It is responsiblefor storing nutrients in the soil for plants to use. Humus is high incarbon and therefore very dark.

FertilisersMaterial spread on or worked into soil to increase its capacity tosupport plant growth.

Organic matterCarbon based substances from plant or animal tissue or residue.

Recycled organicsGeneric term for a range of products manufactured fromcompostable organic matter.

Waste streamThe flow of materials from generation to disposal.

DEFINITIONS

Council Resources

Mosman Council can help you and your garden contribute to thehealth of the local environment. Call 9978 4000 for locally specificinformation on any of the following:

● Purchasing compost bins, worm farms, mulch and compost● Your green waste collection schedule● Purchasing and installing rainwater tanks● Identifying and eliminating weeds and unwanted plants● Recommended plant species● Getting active and learning through Bushcare● Upcoming workshops and events● General environmental enquiries● Obtaining free mulch

FURTHER RESOURCES


INTERNET RESOURCESThere are many websites that can help with eco-gardening. Most of these arelinked from the Mosman Council Website:● http://www.mosman.nsw.gov.au/environment/index.html

● Resource NSWResource NSW has produced one page Easy Guides on composting, mulching,worm farming, green cleaning and recycling.

http://www.resource.nsw.gov.au/

● Flora for FaunaAn organisation focussed mainly on integrating gardens and bushland in urbanareas. Loads of simple, constructive tips on making your garden a haven for youand native fauna.

http://www.floraforfauna.com.au/

● Sustainable Gardening AustraliaA great website that provides a discussion forum and all sorts of handy tips on gardening for you and the natural environment.

http://www.sgaonline.org.au/index.php

● Friends of the EarthA comprehensive site for the committed eco-gardener.

http://www.sydney.foe.org.au/SustainableConsumption/gar-den/

● Australian Native Plants Discussion ForumA discussion group run by backyard gardeners who sharetheir experiences of growing native plants. This forum is pro-vided for the discussion of native plants of Australian, NewZealand and Oceania.

http://www.au.gardenweb.com/forums/oznative

● Association of Societies for Growing Australian Plants (ASGAP)The Association of Societies for Growing Australian Plants (ASGAP) caters forpeople interested in Australia's native flora.

http://farrer.riv.csu.edu.au/ASGAP/

ECO-GARDENING LIBRARY

There is a wide range of books available on eco-gardening and local bushland –these are some suggestions. Those marked with an *asterisk are available in theMosman Council Library.

* Angus, S. (2002), Australian Plants for Year Round Colour, ABC Books, Australia

* Benson and Howell, (1995), Taken For Granted – The Bushland of Sydney and ItsSuburbs, Kangaroo Press, Australia

Blood, K. (2001), Environmental Weeds – A Field Guide for SE Australia, CH Jerramand Associates, Australia

* Bradley, J. (1988), Bringing Back the Bush – The Bradley method of BushRegeneration, Lansdowne Press, Australia

* Collins, J. (1993), Companion Gardening, Lothian Press, Australia

* Cullen, M. and Johnson, L. (1992), Backyard and Balcony Composting, Bookmanpress, Australia

* Knight, M. (1990), Mice Don’t Like Spearmint, William Heinemann Australia,Australia

* Low, T. (2002), The New Nature, Penguin, Australia

Robinson, L. (1991), Field Guide to the Native Plants of Sydney, Kangaroo Press,Australia

* Rogers, P (1997), Safer pest Control for Homes and Gardens, Choice Books,Australia

Rutherford, P (1997), The Australian Compost and Worm Book, Apollo Books,Australia

* Swane, V (1990), Gardening for Children, ABC Books, Australia

Woodrow, L. (1996), The Permaculture Home Garden, Viking/Penguin, Australia


NOTES NOTES

NOTES

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