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QL 402 S54 1940 CHMREF

Si HELLS AND

DECORATION ©

AN EXHIBITION AT THE COOPER UNION

MUSEUM FOR THE ARTS OF DECORATION

COOPER SQUARE AND SEVENTH STREET,

NOVEMBER 19th THROUGH DECEMBER 24th,

1940

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SHELLS AND DECORATION

THERE IS MUCH IN THE NATURE OF SHELLS

to capture the imagination. The variety of forms, the endless combinations and

patternings of colors, the durability of the material, have appealed to artists and

craftsmen throughout the ages. The Museum’s exhibition calls attention to some

representative uses to which shells and their attributes have been applied; it

makes no claim to completeness, but aims to provoke an increased interest in the

shell as an element in decorative art.

“Shell,” as here used, refers to the outer covering of animals called mollusks

which live in the sea, in fresh water, and on the land. Formed of lime secreted

by the mollusk, the shell in practically all instances is an external skeleton that

shields the soft body of the animal within. Very few of the eighty thousand

species known to science have found their way into the decorative arts. The

layman recognizes them as belonging to one of two groups: univalves, such as

the cowry, conch, nautilus, and snail; or bivalves, as represented by scallops,

oysters, and clams.

A distinction may be made between the uses of shells themselves, and the

application of their forms in design. As a medium for primitive craftsmen,

they have been used throughout the world. The Aurignacians of France probably

were the first to use them, for necklaces and armlets which appear to date back

25,000 years. Of less antiquity but equal interest are the carved and worked

ornaments unearthed in Tennessee, Texas, and the highlands of Mexico. The

manufacture of wampum for money and mnemonic beadwork was once a

flourishing native industry along the Atlantic coast, particularly in the environs

of New York. A number of articles in the exhibition reveal a striking affinity

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between the shell ornaments of the Pacific Islands and the costume jewelry on

display along Fifth Avenue. Not only primitives and moderns have recognized

the suitability of shell as a material. Adornments from Egyptian tombs, nautilus

cups from Renaissance Italy, and domes of artificial flowers from our own

Victorian parlors testify to that.

The other side of the picture concerns the conversion of the shell form, or

its elements, into painted, carved, woven, or other adaptations. An early and

common example is the argonaut emerging from the shell, as depicted upon

Minoan pottery. Another illustration is furnished by the distinctive volute of

the Ionic capital, which has been shown to have a relationship to the three-

dimensional spiral of the whelk. It has been demonstrated that without geo-

metrical instruments, this volute can be drawn by a pencil attached to the free

end of an unwinding cord wrapped in the spiral of the slowly rotating shell.

The most marked development in the use of the shell as a motif originated

in France during the eighteenth century, when the rococo style grew out of the

heavy baroque. The conventionalized curves of the shell served as a basic model

for the extravagant and playful lines that characterize the rococo. A specific

term, coquillage, was coined to designate this influence upon the decoration of the

times. From picture frames to coaches, jewels to fountains, no article upon which

ornament could be expended escaped this imaginative adaptation of the shell.

What place has our subject in the world of today? Let us remember that in

the evolution of ceramic wares, the whiteness of the porcellana cowry of Italy

offered a long unattainable goal for color, texture, and delicacy. So today it

seems that new materials, new techniques, and a new concept of design should

bring out qualities in shells which never have been adequately expressed. The

Museum’s exhibition presents a number of modern articles in a variety of

materials, with the desire that they may suggest new possibilities for decorative

art and personal adornment.

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SELECTED REFERENCES in the Museum Library on the Subject

of the Exhibition

ADAMS, HENRY GARDINER. Beautiful shells; their nature, structure, and uses familiarly ex- plained . . . London, Groombridge and sons, 1856. xvi, 78p. illus., 8 col. pl. 16mo.

ALBERTOLLI, GIOCONDO. Ornamenti diversi, inventati, disegnati ed esiguiti da Giocondo Albertolli. Milano, Albertolli [1782] 24 (i.e. 22) pl. F.

Pl. 2, 9, 11, 19.

ALDER, JOSHUA. A monograph of the British nudibranchiate mollusca. London, Printed for the Ray society, 1845-55. 2v. plates (part col.) F.

THE ARMS of the peers, peeresses, &c. of Eng- land, Scotland, and Ireland. London, J. Stock- dale, 1805. 60, 32 [12] p. of illus. 24mo.

Pages 7, 12, 15; 2, 4, 8, 10, 17, 18, 21, 23,

24, 25, 28. App. 2, 3.

ARRIVET, J. Cartels, cadres, ornements; style Louis xv, par Arrivet, Babel, Choffard, etc. Paris, Guérinet [n.d.] 42 pl. F.

No text. Numerous examples of use of the coquille.

ARTINANO Y GALDOCANO, PEpRO. Catélogo de la exposicién de orfebreria civil espafiola. Mad- rid, Mateu, 1925. 163p. 42 pl. F.

Plate showing Majorcan silver.

BALL, KATHERINE M. Decorative motives of ori- ental art, London, J. Lane; New York, Dodd, Mead [1927] xxvi, 286p. illus. F. A brief notice on the occurrence of mollusks

in oriental art, p. 185-188.

BAPsT, GERMAIN. Etudes sur l’orfévrerie fran- caise au xvilie siécle . . . Paris, Rouam, 1887. xxxi, 254p. front., illus., 5 pl. 8vo.

BERAIN, JEAN, fi/s. Ornemens de peinture et de sculpture, qui sont dans la Galerie d’Apollon, au Chateau du Louvre, et dans le grand apparte- ment de roy, au Palais des Tuilleries. {Paris} Scotin, 1710. 29 pl. F.

BERLING, Kari. Das Meissner porzellan und seine geschichte. Leipzig, Brockhaus, 1900. xvii, 211p. illus., plates, tables. F.

Plates 4, 6, 18-20, 25. Figs. 18, 44, 100, 102-6, 127, 153-4.

BINSTEAD, HERBERT ERNEST. Useful details in several styles. New York, Lane, 1907. 144p. illus. 4to.

No text. Many illustrations of development in use of cougillage.

[BLAsON, ou art héraldique. n.p., n.d.] 32 en- graved pl. F.

Contains illustrations of the Ordre de St. Michel (pl. 23, no. 43) and the Ordre de Navire (pl. 26, no. 73). See also plates 4, 7, 11.

BLONDEL, JACQUES FRANCOIS. De la distribution des maisons de plaisance, et de la décoration des édifices en général. Paris, Jombert, 1737-8. 2v. front., 155 pl., plans, diagrs. 4to.

Noted by Rouaix as an important employer of the coquille.

BURLINGTON FINE ARTS CLUB, LONDON. Ex- hibition of a collection of silversmiths’ work of European origin. London, Printed for the Bur- lington fine arts club, 1901. lvii, 185p. 120 pl. F.

Plates 43, 76, 109.

BURTON, WILLIAM. Josiah Wedgwood and his pottery. New York, Funk & Wagnalls; London, Cassell, 1922. xii, 195p. col. front., 104 pl. (32

col.) 4to. Text p. 51. Plates facing p. 12, 14, 26, 52, 54,

94.

CHAFFERS, WILLIAM. The new keramic gallery, containing seven hundred illustrations of rare, curious and choice examples of pottery and por- celain from early times to the beginning of the twentieth century ... [3d ed., rev. & enl.} Lon- don, Reeves and Turner, 1926. 2v. col. fronts., illus., plates (part col.) 4to.

Figs. 132, 142, 146, 161-2, 182, 243, 524,

528-9, 595-6, 600.

CuvILuies, FRANCOIS DE, pére. [Recueil des dessins. Paris, 1745-56] 247 pl., plans. F.

DAMBREVILLE, ETIENNE. Abrégé chronologique de l’histoire des ordres de chevalérie . . . Paris, Hacquart, 1807. xxxii, 368p. 28 pl. 8vo.

For accounts of the Ordre du Navire and of St. Jacques de la Coquille see p. 98-100. Plate vi facing p. 97.

DECORATIONS chinoises et de gout chinois. 2e. série. Paris, Guérinet [n.d.] 64 (i.e. 32) pl. F. No text. Plates 51-2, 55-6.

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DECORATIONS japonaises, chinoises et de gotit chinois. 3e. série. Paris, Guérinet [n.d.] 32 pl. F. No text. Genuine Japanese motives, not

French interpretations.

DECORATIVE scutcheons, keys, screws, rosettes. [n.p., n.d.} 117 pl. 8vo. No text.

DeEkay, JAMES E. Zoology of New York, or the New York fauna ... Part v. Mollusca. Albany, Carroll & Cook, 1843. 271p. 40 col. pl. 4to. (Natural history of New York, pt. 1, Zoology)

DELAFOSSE, JEAN CHARLES. Nouvelle icono- logie historique, ou attributs hierogliphyques, qui ont pour objets les quatre élémens, les quatre saisons, les quatres parties du monde et les dif- férentes complexions de l'homme . . . Paris, Chereau, 1771. various paging. 107 pl. F.

Pl. G2, J3, M1.

yal ieventarsislea reversions Iléme recueil de l’oeuvre de Jean Charles Delafosse, architecte, décorateur, et professeur de dessin. Paris, 1770. 152 pl. F.

Title page, pl. 11, 17, 20, 21, 24-5, 32, 59, 64, 71, 94, 117, 140.

Do.MetscH, HernricH. Anthologie de |’orne- ment. Paris, Guérinet [n.d.] 100p. illus., 100 pl. (part col.) F.

Plates 61-2, 80, 88, 90. P. 89.

Ereaetotape\cisuenrereese tere Der ornamentenschatz; ein musterbuch stilvoller ornamente aus allen kunst- epochen. Stuttgart, Hoffman, 1887. 85p. 85 pl. (part col.) F.

Plates 56-7, 75, 82.

DuPontT-AUBERVILLE, L’ornement des tissus; recueil historique et pratique. Paris, Ducher, 1877. 37p., 100 1. 100 col. pl. F.

Plate 69.

ENCYCLOPEDIE ornementale. Paris, Guérinet [1898?] 83, 35 pl. F.

Portfolio of plates. Plates 1-3, 6, 8, 19, 22, 39-40, 53-55, 63, 65-68.

FLETCHER, BANISTER. A history of architecture on the comparative method. Sth ed., rev. & enl. London, Batsford; New York, Scribner, 1905. 738p. front., illus., plates. 12mo.

Mentions possible means of forming volutes of the Ionic order with aid of whelk shell, pl. 42 and p. 77.

Fox-Davies, ARTHUR CHARLES. The book of public arms; a cyclopaedia of the armorial bear- ings, heraldic devices, and seals, as authorized and as used, of the counties, cities, towns, and universities of the United Kingdom. Edinburgh, Jack, 1894. 57p. 130 pl. 4to.

Plates 9, 14, 42, 61, 91.

GARDNER, JOHN STARKIE, ed. Old silver-work, chiefly English, from the xvth to the xviiith cen- turies; a catalogue of the unique loan collection exhibited in 1902 at St. James’s court, London. London, Batsford; New York, Buckley, 1903. xiv, 198p. 121 pl. F.

Plates 4, 5, 11, 25, 59, 88, 91, 112, 117, 119.

GILLot, CLAUDE. Nouveau livre de principes d’ornements, particuliérement pour trouver un nombre infini de formes que en dependent. Paris, Guérinet [n.d.} 55 pl. F. No text. A number of plates demonstrate ro-

coco forms of coguillage.

Sete raye ats ahever a terateute Oeuvre de Claude Gillot, natif de Langres. [Paris] Huquier [17-?] front. (port.) 14 pl. F.

Bound with this is Watteau. Oeuvre.

GUERIN, JACQUES. La chinoiserie en Europe au xviiie siécle. Paris, Librairie centrale des beaux- arts, 1911. 8p. 80 pl. F.

Plates 10, 11, 25, 31, 36, 49, 65.

GUICHARD, EDOUARD. Dessins de décoration des principaux maitres. Paris, Quantin, 1881. 23p. 40 pl. F.

Plates 2, 9, 12, 24, 27, 32.

HANNOVER, EMIL. Pottery & porcelain, a hand- book for collectors. London, Benn, 1925. 3v. illus., col. plates. 4to.

V.1, figs. 27, 364, 397, 434, 498, 545-6, 548,

584, 592, 649, 681-2. V.3, figs. 39, 101, 110, 113, 385, 420, 585, 593, 644, 783.

Havarp, HENry. Dictionnaire de l’'ameublement et de Ja décoration depuis le xiiie siécle jusqu’a nos jours. Paris, Quantin [1894] 4v. illus., plates (part col.) F.

See articles on “Coquille” and “Rocaille.”

HOLMES, WILLIAM H. Art in shell of the ancient Americans. (In U. S. Bureau of American eth- nology. Annual report, 1880/81. Washington, Govt. print. off., 1883. p. 185-305. 56 pl. 4to.)

HopPENHAUPT, JOHANN CHRISTIAN. [Suite de douze piéces. Paris, 175-2] 12 pl. F.

JACKSON, JOHN WILFRID. Shells as evidence of the migrations of early culture. Manchester, Uni- versity press; London, New York [etc.] Long- mans, 1917. xxvii, 216p. front., illus. (incl. maps) plates. 8vo.

Although Jackson’s theory of cultural expan- sion is not universally accepted, the data and illustrations assembled on the roles of shells in various cultures are very informative.

JESSEN, PETER. Der ornamentstich; geschichte der vorlagen des kunsthandwerks seit dem mit- telalter. Berlin, Verlag fiir kunstwissenschaft, 1920. 384p. illus., plates. 8vo. Development of shell form into the rococo,

beginning p. 195. An unusual use of volute shell illustrated on p. 26.

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fe! euclenegenieterciate stots Rococo engraving. London, Benn, 1922. 200 pl. F.

Most of the plates show the coquille in vari- ous positions of importance as a decorative ele- ment.

ah hadive etacerevenevelcteaars Le style Louis xv. Paris, Guérinet [n.d.] 200 pl. F. (Les maitres de |’orne- mentation, tome 3)

Same plates as preceding.

KNorR, GEORG WOLFGANG. Les délices des yeux et de l’esprit, ou collection générale des differ- entes espéces de coquillage que la mer renferme. Nuremberg, 1760-73. 6v. 190 pl. (180 col.) 8vo.

KuNZ, GEORGE FREDERICK. The book of the pearl; the history, art, science, and industry of the queen of gems. New York, Century, 1908. xix, 548p. col. front., illus., plates, ports. 4to.

Plates opp. p. 36, 39, 42, 68, 72, 76, 266, 275, 280, 390, 499.

LA JOUE, JACQUES DE. Reciieil nouveau de dif- ferens cartouche, Paris, Guérinet [n.d.] 29 pl. F.

No text. Highly developed rococo forms.

LIENARD, MICHEL. Spécimens de la décoration et de l’ornementation a xixe. siécle. Paris, Claesen {1872] 4p. 125 pl. F.

Plates A2, A4, A15, A25, A28, B8b, B12-13, B18A, B25A, B33, C10. Second empire horribilia.

LE LUMINAIRE, transformations progressives du ier au xixe. siécle. Paris, Rouveyre [n.d.] 80 pl. 4to.

No text. Plates 3, 8, 9, 43.

Marot, DANIEL. Werken van D. Marot, opper- boumeester van zyne maiesteit Willem den Der- den, Koning van Groot Britanje . . . [Amster- dam, The author, 1712} 131 pl. F.

Title page in Dutch and Latin.

MARTYN, WILLIAM FREDERIC. A new dictionary of natural history, or compleat universal display of animated nature with accurate representations of the most curious and beautiful animals ele- gantly coloured. London, Printed for Harrison & co., 1785. 2v. col. plates. F.

MAYER, ALFRED GOLDSBOROUGH. Sea-shore life; the invertebrates of the New York coast. [New York] New York zoological society, 1905. 181p. 8vo. (New York aquarium nature series, no. 1)

MEISSONIER, JUSTE AURELE. Oeuvre de Juste Aurele Meissonier, peintre, sculpteur, architecte &c., dessinateur de la chambre du roy. Premiére partie, executé sous la conduite de |’auteur. Paris, Huquier [1730?] 70 pl., port. F.

One of the most important collections of plates of ornament and decoration of the Louis XV period.

AT SORE Oeuvre de Juste Auréle Meissonier; peintre, sculpteur, architecte et des- sinateur de la chambre et cabinet du roy. Paris, Rouveyre [n.d.] F.

{MeETAL work. n.p., n.d.] 65p. of engravings. 4to.

Many examples of shell motives.

MOLINIER, EMILE. Les arts du métal (orfévrerie, bijouterie, ferronerie, bronze) Paris, Bibliothé- que de la Gazette des beaux-arts [1892?] 144p. illus. 4to.

P. 47-8, 50, 73, 78, 87, 111.

OPPENORD, GILLE Martz. Oeuvres de Gille Marie Oppenord, ecuier, directeur general des batiments et jardins de son altesse royale Mon- seigneur le duc d’Orleans, regent du royaume. Contenant differents fragments d’architecture et d’ornements, 4 |’usage des batiments sacrées, publics, et particuliers . . . Paris, Huquier [1748?] 165 pl. F.

NEw YorK. MuSEUM OF MODERN ART. Fantas- tic art, Dada, Surrealism, edited by Alfred H. Barr, Jr. New York, The museum, 1936. 248p. incl. illus. 8vo.

Figs. 33, 172, 369, 679.

PARAMO, PLATON. La cerdmica antigua de Tal- avera. Madrid {Hauser y Menet] 1919. 47p. 20 pl. 4to.

Plates 13, 16.

PEQUEGNOT, AuGuUSTE. Album de cheminées, pierre, marbre, bois, etc. de toutes les époques. Paris, Ducher [n.d.] 54 pl. F.

No text. Plates 32, 35.

vifisarninnamueenea Ornements, vases et décora- tions d’aprés les maitres. Paris, Ducher [n.d.]} Plates. F.

No text.

PERGOLESI, MICHEL ANGELO. Disegni di orna- menti. London, 1776. 71 col. pl. F.

Pl. 41.

PERRY, GEORGE. Conchology, or the natural his- tory of shells: containing a new arrangement of the genera and species. London, Miller, 1811. 4p., 62 1. 61 col. pl. F.

PETRIE, SIR W. M. FLINpeERS. Decorative pat- terns of the ancient world. London, University college, 1930. 16p. Ixxxviii p. of illus. F.

P. vii-viil.

PEYROTTE, ALEXIS. Divers ornemens dediés a Monsieur Tanevat, architecte du roi, par son t.h.s. Peyrotte. [Paris} Huquier [175-] 18 pl.

Three different series of 6 plates bound to- gether.

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PHILLiPs, Puitip A. S. Paul de Lamerie, citizen and goldsmith of London; a study of his life and work, a.d. 1688-1751. London, Batsford, 1935. xvi, 115p. front., illus., plates, facsims. F.

Plates 123, 124, 152, 156, 157.

PORTEFEUILLE des arts décoratifs, pub. sous le patronage de l’union centrale des arts décoratifs. 1.-10. année; 1888/89-1897/98. Paris, Calavas [1889-98] 10v. 960 pl. No text. Plates 8, 11, 18, 22, 83, 302, 395,

407, 415, 428, 447, 481, 488-9, 569, 603, 609, 649, 663, 671, 676, 688, 690, 742, 818, 820, 950-1.

RACINET, ALBERT CHARLES AUGUSTE. L’orne- ment polychrome. Paris, Firmin Didot [1873] 60p., 102 1. 100 col. pl.

Plates 66, 71, 76-7, 79, 91.

Sania ae L’ornement polychrome. Deux- iéme série. Paris, Firmin-Didot [1886-7] 240p. illus., 120 col. pl. F.

Plates 7, 86-8, 99, 106, 111, 115-6.

RECUEIL de planches sur les sciences, les arts libéraux, et les arts méchaniques, avec leur ex- plication. Paris, Briasson, 1742-52. 11v. plates. F.

V.6, plates 64-74.

REEVE, LovELL. Conchologia systematica, com- plete system of conchology. London, Longman, 1841-2. 2v. illus. 4to.

ROGERS, JULIA ELLEN. The shell book; a pop- ular guide to a knowledge of the families of ... mollusks. New York, Doubleday, 1908. xxi, 485p. illus., 56 pl. (8 col.) 8vo.

ROSENBERG, Marc. Der goldschmiede merk- zeichen; 3. erweit. und. illus. aufl. Frankfurt am Main, Frankfurter verlags-anstalt, 1922-28. 4v. illus., plates. 8vo.

V.1, plates 4, 8, 25, 27.

Rouatx, PAUL. Dictionnaire des arts décoratifs a l'usage des artisans, des artistes, des amateurs et des écoles. Paris, Librairie illustrée [n.d.]} 1042p. illus., plates. 4to.

See articles on “Coquille’’ and ‘‘Rocaille.”

ae elie Les styles; 700 gravures clas- sées par époques. Paris, Rouam [1885] 335p. illus. F,

P. 26, 28, 81, 84, 97, 112-3, 115, 120, 204, 207, 209-10, 217, 227, 239, 248, 269, 272.

SALEMBIER, Henri. [Cahiers d’orfévrerie et de bronze. Paris, Bancé, 1807-9] 36 pl. F.

Pl. 4, 13, 23-4.

SALY, JACQUES FRANCOIS. [Vases inventés et gravés par Jacobus Saly. Paris, 1746] 12 pl. F.

SEeBA, ALBERTUS. Locupletissimi rerum natural- ium. Thesauri accurata descriptio, et iconibus artificiosissimus expressio. Amstelaedami, Jans- son-Waesberg, 1734-65. 4v. col. plates. F.

V.3, plates 35-94. A beautiful and rare work.

SELECTION of ornaments . .. for the use of sculp- tors, painters, carvers, modellers. London, Ack- erman [1818-19] 80 pl. F.

No text. Pt. 1, plate 24, pt. 2, plate 17.

SOWERBY, GEORGE BRETTINGHAM JR. The con- chological illustrations. London, Sowerby, 1841. 2v. 200 col. pl. 12mo.

Fine illustrations.

sede stags NTIS A conchological manual. 4th ed. London, Bohn, 1852. 337p. col. front., illus., 28 col. pl. 12mo.

STRANGE, THOMAS ARTHUR. An historical guide to French interiors, furniture, decoration, wood- work & allied arts. London, The author [n.d.] 400p. illus. 4to.

Contains many examples of use of shell work in 17th and 18th century design.

VEITCH, HENRY NEWTON. Sheffield plate, its history, manufacture and art. London, Bell, 1908. xiv, 359p. incl. illus., 74 pl. 4to.

Plates p. 99, 121, 142, 173.

VERNEUIL, MAURICE PILLARD. Etoffes japon- aises, tissées & brochées. Paris, Librairie centrale des beaux-arts [1910] 2v. 80 col. plates. F.

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Figs. 99, 149-51. P. 91, 93, 126 ff., 133.

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WENHAM, EpwarD. Domestic silver of Great Britain and Ireland. New York, London [etc.] Oxford university press, 1931. xxiii, 186p. front., 95 pl. on 48 1. 4to.

Plates 19, 23, 43, 50, 55, 61, 72, 80.

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