1

2

A Bustle amp Sew Publication

Copyright copy Bustle amp Sew Limited 2012

The right of Helen Dickson to be identified as theauthor of this work has been asserted inaccordance with the Copyright Designs andPatents Act 1988

All rights reserved No part of this publicationmay be reproduced stored in a retrieval system ortransmitted in any form or by any means withoutthe prior written permission of the author nor beotherwise circulated in any form of binding orcover other than that in which it is published andwithout a similar condition being imposed on thesubsequent purchaser

Every effort has been made to ensure that all theinformation in this book is accurate Howeverdue to differing conditions tools and individualskills the publisher cannot be responsible for anyinjuries losses and other damages that may resultfrom the use of the information in this book

First published 2013 byBustle amp SewCoombe LeighChillingtonKingsbridgeDevon TQ7 2LEUK

wwwbustleandsewcom

2

A Bustle amp Sew Publication

Copyright copy Bustle amp Sew Limited 2012

The right of Helen Dickson to be identified as theauthor of this work has been asserted inaccordance with the Copyright Designs andPatents Act 1988

All rights reserved No part of this publicationmay be reproduced stored in a retrieval system ortransmitted in any form or by any means withoutthe prior written permission of the author nor beotherwise circulated in any form of binding orcover other than that in which it is published andwithout a similar condition being imposed on thesubsequent purchaser

Every effort has been made to ensure that all theinformation in this book is accurate Howeverdue to differing conditions tools and individualskills the publisher cannot be responsible for anyinjuries losses and other damages that may resultfrom the use of the information in this book

First published 2013 byBustle amp SewCoombe LeighChillingtonKingsbridgeDevon TQ7 2LEUK

wwwbustleandsewcom

3

Notes from a Devon Village Page 4

Birds on a Wire Page 6

Crazy Patchwork - a very Victorian Trend Page 9

Three Patchwork eco-Totes Page 11

Really Easy Fabric Covered Lampshades Page 19

Valentinersquos Greetings Page 21

Owls in Love Page 22

Made for Each Other Love Heart Page 26

Transferring your Design Page 30

Vintage Pattern Moonlight Capers Page 33

Daisy Knot Bag Page 37

Hints amp Tips from Stitchers Page 41

Mice are Nice Embroidery Page 42

An Alphabet of Stitches (part 4) Page 49

Hello and a very big welcome to Issue 25 of the Bustle amp Sew MagazineThis month in honour of its second birthday the magazine has had a bit ofa make-over with a new cover style and lots of lovely colour all the waythrough - I do hope you like it

And therersquos a new photograph of me too - with the youngest member of theBustle amp Sew team - little Daisy who at the time of writing is just 12 weeksold Shersquos a proper little madam who is into everything and poor harassedBen is trying very hard to remember exactly why he wanted a baby sister

Hersquos very kind and patient with her though even though shersquos bounced on him so much and ruffled histummy fur into such tangles hersquos had to have a very short trim - a little chilly in February

But even though the weatherrsquos still a bit chilly here in the magazine wersquore looking ahead to springwith the Daisy Knot Bag - ideal for that transition between the winter and summer seasons Yoursquoll alsofind Birds on a Wire - a great way to display anything that can be pegged to a line - as well as threepretty eco-totes to keep in your handbag for those impromptu shopping expeditions

Have a wonderful February - and Irsquoll be back in March with some Easter ideas for you

Helen xx

4

February although the coldest month of the yearhere in England is also the last month of winter andthere is a sense of life beginning to stir beneath thefrozen land

If you look very closely there are tiny buds on thehawthorne hedges where before too much longerthere will be fresh green leaves the snowdrops arealready in bloom and the hardy green spikes ofdaffodils and narcissi stand strong and proud abovethe bare earth

Signs of spring indoors on my mantlepiece

I will hang my special dog-fur station in the gardenquite soon Its simply a wire coil stuffed with thefluff I groom out of my two furry friends The birdswill take it for their nests where it will make a lovelysoft bed for their newly hatched youngsters whenspring finally arrives

Up at Blackdown Rings an old hill fort not too farfrom here at this time of year you may often spothares in the pasture beneath the fort I was luckyto see one last week but although I remained stillfor a long time I didnt see its mate and eventuallyit lolloped away

I first saw a hare on a smokey autumn day inWarwickshire when I was just a teenager Thecornfields had been cut and the hare rose up fromthe stubble only a few yards in front of me Untilthen I had believed that hares were simply rabbitswith longer ears but was instantly struck by howpowerful and angular these creatures are - not cuddlyin the slightest but all muscle and poised for actionNo wonder that in the past they were believed topossess magical properties

On clear days you can see for miles hellip

Walking around the Iron Age ditches I noticed thegorse was coming into blossom (so kissing must beback in fashion again) and the resident robinseemed almost to be bursting with song even thoughthe wind was chilly and there was a frosting of icealong the edges of the ditches

Blackdown Rings is a wonderful walk at any timeof year and on clear days you can see for miles andmiles with the countryside spread out beneathbringing to mind that lovely poem ldquoThe Land ofCounterpanerdquo by RL Stevenson

5

When I was sick and lay a-bedI had two pillows at my headAnd all my toys beside me layTo keep me happy all the day

And sometimes for an hour or soI watched my leaden soldiers go

With different uniforms and drillsAmong the bed-clothes through the hills

And sometimes sent my ships in fleetsAll up and down among the sheets

Or brought my trees and houses outAnd planted cities all about

I was the giant great and stillThat sits upon the pillow-hill

And sees before him dale and plainThe pleasant land of counterpane

Wouldnrsquot it be a lovely idea to create a map quilt -with trees gardens fruit flowers and animalsstitched onto linen and mixed with carefully chosenfabrics It would be a complicated lengthy projectone Irsquod love to attempt one day but for the momenttime does not allow

Of course there are days when time rather thanbeing at a premium seems to stretch into eternity -particularly when February lives up to its name asldquofill-dykerdquo as the rain beats on our windows androof and the sound of running splashing water is allaround

On days like this when their daily walk is very shortand outside play is prohibited it can be very hard tokeep my canine companions amused and out ofmischief - rather like having young children Whenconfined indoors for any length of time they willfidget and wriggle bounce and bicker and becomegenerally annoying needing like small children tobe amused

Several Christmases ago Amy received a rathergood present - K-9 Cookbook - Easy to make DogBiscuit Recipes which are great to bake on rainydays I first made these for Ben and Amy about

five years ago and now whenever I mention thatwersquore going going to make dog biscuits Benrsquos rainyday boredom will vanish in an instant

He heads for the kitchen these days closelyfollowed by his baby sister Daisy and isimmediately ready to help with measuring andmixing patting and baking Then of course comethe tasty scrapings from the bowl while we all enjoythe savoury aromas wafting out from the oven I amtold by the Newfies that the finished biscuits areentirely delicious

Our recipes below if anyone wants to try forthemselves and I dont think theyll stay in yourPet Treat tin for long

Spots Golden Cheese Dreams

3 cups (750 ml) whole wheat flour 2 tsps (10 ml) garlic powder 12 cup (125 ml) vegetable oil 1 cup (250 ml) grated (shredded) cheese 1 egg beaten 1 cup (250 ml) milk

In a large mixing bowl combine flour and garlicpowder

Make a well in the flour mixture and gradually stirin vegetable oil cheese beaten egg and milk untilwell blended

Knead dough on a floured surface about 3-4 minutes

With a rolling pin roll dough to 12 thickness

Cut with bone-shaped biscuit cutter if you have oneand place on a lightly greased baking sheet

Bake 25 minutes at 400F 200C (we used AgaRoasting oven 3rd shelf)

Cool on rack (well out of reach) and store in acontainer with loose-fitting lid

Goodbye rainy day blues say Ben and Daisybaking is great lets do it more often

6

Birds on a WireCharming and unusual way to display all manner of cherished items whether theseare childrensrsquo drawings greetings cards remnants of favourite fabrics - or anything

you choose that can be pegged to a line

Finished birds measure about 5 frac12rdquo from head to tail

7

To make 6 birds you will need

8rdquo x 15rdquo piece of felt or other suitable fabricfor birdsrsquo bodies

8rdquo x 15rdquo piece of felt for backing

Six printed cotton fabric scraps for wingseach measuring approx 3rdquo x 1 frac12rdquo

8rdquo x 15rdquo piece of Bondaweb plus smallpieces for wings

Black and yellow stranded cotton floss

6 wooden clothes pegs (the wooden springclip variety)

Temporary fabric marker pen

Hot glue gun

Black thread for machine needle

Embroidery darning foot for machine

Making your birds

Fuse your piece of Bondaweb to the reverseof the fabric yoursquove chosen for the birdsrsquobodies

Peel off the backing paper and then fuse thefelt backing to the reverse of the body fabricmaking a sort of sandwich

Print and cut out the bird templates - they aregiven actual size Cut 3 as given thenreverse your template for the other 3

Position your bird templates on the front ofthe fabric sandwich you just made and drawaround them with the temporary fabricmarker pen You might find it easier tomatch their wings if you number them insome way now then number the wings onthe Bondaweb as you trace them

Trace the birdsrsquo wings onto Bondaweb(remember that 3 will need to be reversed)and then iron the Bondaweb to the back ofyour printed fabric scraps

Cut out the birdsrsquo wings then peel off thepaper backing and fuse the wings into placeon the birdsrsquo bodies

You will now have six bodies ready forfreestyle machine embroidery Itrsquos mucheasier to stitch and then cut them out asotherwise theyrsquore very fiddly - particularlythe tails

8

With black or other dark thread in yourmachine needle and light coloured thread inyour bobbin stitch twice around the outline ofeach bird (just inside the outline you drew)and the wing Remember your stitchingdoesnrsquot need to be perfect - yoursquore aiming fora sketchy slightly scribbled sort of effect

Cut out birds - if your stitching was a bitwonky in places and you have to cut throughit this doesnrsquot really matter

Stitch details using 1 strand of black floss forthe eyes and 2 strands for the beak and feet

With your hot glue gun glue a peg to thereverse of each bird

Finished Now just peg them to a line (Iused jumbo ric-rac braid) to display yourtreasures

9

A very Victoriantrend

Detail from Victorian crazy patchwork tea cosy

Before the trend for crazy patchwork reallytook off in the mid 19th century this techniquewas the preserve of the less-well off and thriftyhousewife Many different kinds of fabric -cotton wool and linen for example would beincluded in a single finished item regardlessof their shape texture or colour Nothingwould be wasted and even the smallest scrapswould find themselves being recycled toprovide warm garments and bed linen Thepatches were cut out seemingly at randombut probably to avoid worn parts of the itemsbeing recycled Sadly but unsurprisinglyvery few examples of this early form of crazypatchwork have survived

It seems likely that better off Victorian ladieswould have seen this type of work and spottedits potential for incorporating scraps ofbrocades silks satins and velvets together

with cast-off ribbons and laces into luxuriousnew creations Fashions at this time were forfull dresses containing yards of fabricsopulent ball gowns and wonderfully patternedand textured interior furnishings

However the major influence in promoting thepopularity of the crazy patchwork techniqueis thought to have been the first officialWorlds Fair the Centennial Exposition heldin Philadelphia Pennsylvania in the year1876 where the most popular exhibits camefrom Japan Crazed porcelain vases withirregular shapes were greatly admired byvisitors and people flocked to the Japanesestand to see the crazed artworkNeedlewomen who admired these vases thenbegan to interpret the lines of the crazed andcrackled finish of the Japanese porcelain in theirregular outlines of their crazy patchwork andso a new trend began

Stitchers would take great care to plan theirwork carefully as the Victorian method ofcrazy patchwork meant there was enormouspotential for creative expression in the shapesand sizes of patches as well as the almostlimitless choice of embellishments available

Patterns and templates werent used in crazypatchwork as the patches were freely cut inasymmetrical shapes and then stitched to a

10

foundation fabric to fit in with adjoiningpatches After this process was completedthe seams were elaborately embroidered witha colourful and to modern eyes gaudyvariety of threads and stitches Then thewhole work was embellished with whateverthe seamstress had to hand - buttons andbows silk flowers ribbons lace beads andeven feathers She might also decide torecord important events and anniversaries byembroidering names dates and perhapsincluding scraps from a Christening robe oranother garment worn to an important eventso her finished item would have had realemotional value

Many beautiful embroidered motifs ofanimals and flowers were stitched in thecentres of some of the patches and womenwho were talented in decorative paintingwould sometimes paint images onto theircrazy quilts Finished crazy quilts were neverintended as utilitarian quilts Their solepurpose was to show off the makersembroidery skills and to decorate the home

Mid 20th century magazine project

Crazy patchwork bag kit fromCrazy Creation Devon

wwwcrazycreationcouk

The crazy patchwork trend was relativelyshort lived fading in the 1920s and early1930s when it lost much of the lavishVictorian style and decoration Fabricsbecame less luxurious and designs less well- crazy There was a limited revival in the1950s and 60s perhaps influenced by thepopularity of crazy paving in towns andgardens but designs were much simplerFewer embellishments were used and moreuse was made of the sewing machine Ofcourse by this time many sewing machineswere able to offer decorative stitches whichmade an attractive substitute for thetraditional hand embroidering of thepatchwork seams

Today this fun and just a little crazytechnique is enjoying a revival with fresh andinnovative ideas and creative use of thewonderful range of fabrics and delightful kitsnow available

5

When I was sick and lay a-bedI had two pillows at my headAnd all my toys beside me layTo keep me happy all the day

And sometimes for an hour or soI watched my leaden soldiers go

With different uniforms and drillsAmong the bed-clothes through the hills

And sometimes sent my ships in fleetsAll up and down among the sheets

Or brought my trees and houses outAnd planted cities all about

I was the giant great and stillThat sits upon the pillow-hill

And sees before him dale and plainThe pleasant land of counterpane

Wouldnrsquot it be a lovely idea to create a map quilt -with trees gardens fruit flowers and animalsstitched onto linen and mixed with carefully chosenfabrics It would be a complicated lengthy projectone Irsquod love to attempt one day but for the momenttime does not allow

Of course there are days when time rather thanbeing at a premium seems to stretch into eternity -particularly when February lives up to its name asldquofill-dykerdquo as the rain beats on our windows androof and the sound of running splashing water is allaround

On days like this when their daily walk is very shortand outside play is prohibited it can be very hard tokeep my canine companions amused and out ofmischief - rather like having young children Whenconfined indoors for any length of time they willfidget and wriggle bounce and bicker and becomegenerally annoying needing like small children tobe amused

Several Christmases ago Amy received a rathergood present - K-9 Cookbook - Easy to make DogBiscuit Recipes which are great to bake on rainydays I first made these for Ben and Amy about

five years ago and now whenever I mention thatwersquore going going to make dog biscuits Benrsquos rainyday boredom will vanish in an instant

He heads for the kitchen these days closelyfollowed by his baby sister Daisy and isimmediately ready to help with measuring andmixing patting and baking Then of course comethe tasty scrapings from the bowl while we all enjoythe savoury aromas wafting out from the oven I amtold by the Newfies that the finished biscuits areentirely delicious

Our recipes below if anyone wants to try forthemselves and I dont think theyll stay in yourPet Treat tin for long

Spots Golden Cheese Dreams

3 cups (750 ml) whole wheat flour 2 tsps (10 ml) garlic powder 12 cup (125 ml) vegetable oil 1 cup (250 ml) grated (shredded) cheese 1 egg beaten 1 cup (250 ml) milk

In a large mixing bowl combine flour and garlicpowder

Make a well in the flour mixture and gradually stirin vegetable oil cheese beaten egg and milk untilwell blended

Knead dough on a floured surface about 3-4 minutes

With a rolling pin roll dough to 12 thickness

Cut with bone-shaped biscuit cutter if you have oneand place on a lightly greased baking sheet

Bake 25 minutes at 400F 200C (we used AgaRoasting oven 3rd shelf)

Cool on rack (well out of reach) and store in acontainer with loose-fitting lid

Goodbye rainy day blues say Ben and Daisybaking is great lets do it more often

6

Birds on a WireCharming and unusual way to display all manner of cherished items whether theseare childrensrsquo drawings greetings cards remnants of favourite fabrics - or anything

you choose that can be pegged to a line

Finished birds measure about 5 frac12rdquo from head to tail

7

To make 6 birds you will need

8rdquo x 15rdquo piece of felt or other suitable fabricfor birdsrsquo bodies

8rdquo x 15rdquo piece of felt for backing

Six printed cotton fabric scraps for wingseach measuring approx 3rdquo x 1 frac12rdquo

8rdquo x 15rdquo piece of Bondaweb plus smallpieces for wings

Black and yellow stranded cotton floss

6 wooden clothes pegs (the wooden springclip variety)

Temporary fabric marker pen

Hot glue gun

Black thread for machine needle

Embroidery darning foot for machine

Making your birds

Fuse your piece of Bondaweb to the reverseof the fabric yoursquove chosen for the birdsrsquobodies

Peel off the backing paper and then fuse thefelt backing to the reverse of the body fabricmaking a sort of sandwich

Print and cut out the bird templates - they aregiven actual size Cut 3 as given thenreverse your template for the other 3

Position your bird templates on the front ofthe fabric sandwich you just made and drawaround them with the temporary fabricmarker pen You might find it easier tomatch their wings if you number them insome way now then number the wings onthe Bondaweb as you trace them

Trace the birdsrsquo wings onto Bondaweb(remember that 3 will need to be reversed)and then iron the Bondaweb to the back ofyour printed fabric scraps

Cut out the birdsrsquo wings then peel off thepaper backing and fuse the wings into placeon the birdsrsquo bodies

You will now have six bodies ready forfreestyle machine embroidery Itrsquos mucheasier to stitch and then cut them out asotherwise theyrsquore very fiddly - particularlythe tails

8

With black or other dark thread in yourmachine needle and light coloured thread inyour bobbin stitch twice around the outline ofeach bird (just inside the outline you drew)and the wing Remember your stitchingdoesnrsquot need to be perfect - yoursquore aiming fora sketchy slightly scribbled sort of effect

Cut out birds - if your stitching was a bitwonky in places and you have to cut throughit this doesnrsquot really matter

Stitch details using 1 strand of black floss forthe eyes and 2 strands for the beak and feet

With your hot glue gun glue a peg to thereverse of each bird

Finished Now just peg them to a line (Iused jumbo ric-rac braid) to display yourtreasures

9

A very Victoriantrend

Detail from Victorian crazy patchwork tea cosy

Before the trend for crazy patchwork reallytook off in the mid 19th century this techniquewas the preserve of the less-well off and thriftyhousewife Many different kinds of fabric -cotton wool and linen for example would beincluded in a single finished item regardlessof their shape texture or colour Nothingwould be wasted and even the smallest scrapswould find themselves being recycled toprovide warm garments and bed linen Thepatches were cut out seemingly at randombut probably to avoid worn parts of the itemsbeing recycled Sadly but unsurprisinglyvery few examples of this early form of crazypatchwork have survived

It seems likely that better off Victorian ladieswould have seen this type of work and spottedits potential for incorporating scraps ofbrocades silks satins and velvets together

with cast-off ribbons and laces into luxuriousnew creations Fashions at this time were forfull dresses containing yards of fabricsopulent ball gowns and wonderfully patternedand textured interior furnishings

However the major influence in promoting thepopularity of the crazy patchwork techniqueis thought to have been the first officialWorlds Fair the Centennial Exposition heldin Philadelphia Pennsylvania in the year1876 where the most popular exhibits camefrom Japan Crazed porcelain vases withirregular shapes were greatly admired byvisitors and people flocked to the Japanesestand to see the crazed artworkNeedlewomen who admired these vases thenbegan to interpret the lines of the crazed andcrackled finish of the Japanese porcelain in theirregular outlines of their crazy patchwork andso a new trend began

Stitchers would take great care to plan theirwork carefully as the Victorian method ofcrazy patchwork meant there was enormouspotential for creative expression in the shapesand sizes of patches as well as the almostlimitless choice of embellishments available

Patterns and templates werent used in crazypatchwork as the patches were freely cut inasymmetrical shapes and then stitched to a

10

foundation fabric to fit in with adjoiningpatches After this process was completedthe seams were elaborately embroidered witha colourful and to modern eyes gaudyvariety of threads and stitches Then thewhole work was embellished with whateverthe seamstress had to hand - buttons andbows silk flowers ribbons lace beads andeven feathers She might also decide torecord important events and anniversaries byembroidering names dates and perhapsincluding scraps from a Christening robe oranother garment worn to an important eventso her finished item would have had realemotional value

Many beautiful embroidered motifs ofanimals and flowers were stitched in thecentres of some of the patches and womenwho were talented in decorative paintingwould sometimes paint images onto theircrazy quilts Finished crazy quilts were neverintended as utilitarian quilts Their solepurpose was to show off the makersembroidery skills and to decorate the home

Mid 20th century magazine project

Crazy patchwork bag kit fromCrazy Creation Devon

wwwcrazycreationcouk

The crazy patchwork trend was relativelyshort lived fading in the 1920s and early1930s when it lost much of the lavishVictorian style and decoration Fabricsbecame less luxurious and designs less well- crazy There was a limited revival in the1950s and 60s perhaps influenced by thepopularity of crazy paving in towns andgardens but designs were much simplerFewer embellishments were used and moreuse was made of the sewing machine Ofcourse by this time many sewing machineswere able to offer decorative stitches whichmade an attractive substitute for thetraditional hand embroidering of thepatchwork seams

Today this fun and just a little crazytechnique is enjoying a revival with fresh andinnovative ideas and creative use of thewonderful range of fabrics and delightful kitsnow available

6

Birds on a WireCharming and unusual way to display all manner of cherished items whether theseare childrensrsquo drawings greetings cards remnants of favourite fabrics - or anything

you choose that can be pegged to a line

Finished birds measure about 5 frac12rdquo from head to tail

7

To make 6 birds you will need

8rdquo x 15rdquo piece of felt or other suitable fabricfor birdsrsquo bodies

8rdquo x 15rdquo piece of felt for backing

Six printed cotton fabric scraps for wingseach measuring approx 3rdquo x 1 frac12rdquo

8rdquo x 15rdquo piece of Bondaweb plus smallpieces for wings

Black and yellow stranded cotton floss

6 wooden clothes pegs (the wooden springclip variety)

Temporary fabric marker pen

Hot glue gun

Black thread for machine needle

Embroidery darning foot for machine

Making your birds

Fuse your piece of Bondaweb to the reverseof the fabric yoursquove chosen for the birdsrsquobodies

Peel off the backing paper and then fuse thefelt backing to the reverse of the body fabricmaking a sort of sandwich

Print and cut out the bird templates - they aregiven actual size Cut 3 as given thenreverse your template for the other 3

Position your bird templates on the front ofthe fabric sandwich you just made and drawaround them with the temporary fabricmarker pen You might find it easier tomatch their wings if you number them insome way now then number the wings onthe Bondaweb as you trace them

Trace the birdsrsquo wings onto Bondaweb(remember that 3 will need to be reversed)and then iron the Bondaweb to the back ofyour printed fabric scraps

Cut out the birdsrsquo wings then peel off thepaper backing and fuse the wings into placeon the birdsrsquo bodies

You will now have six bodies ready forfreestyle machine embroidery Itrsquos mucheasier to stitch and then cut them out asotherwise theyrsquore very fiddly - particularlythe tails

8

With black or other dark thread in yourmachine needle and light coloured thread inyour bobbin stitch twice around the outline ofeach bird (just inside the outline you drew)and the wing Remember your stitchingdoesnrsquot need to be perfect - yoursquore aiming fora sketchy slightly scribbled sort of effect

Cut out birds - if your stitching was a bitwonky in places and you have to cut throughit this doesnrsquot really matter

Stitch details using 1 strand of black floss forthe eyes and 2 strands for the beak and feet

With your hot glue gun glue a peg to thereverse of each bird

Finished Now just peg them to a line (Iused jumbo ric-rac braid) to display yourtreasures

9

A very Victoriantrend

Detail from Victorian crazy patchwork tea cosy

Before the trend for crazy patchwork reallytook off in the mid 19th century this techniquewas the preserve of the less-well off and thriftyhousewife Many different kinds of fabric -cotton wool and linen for example would beincluded in a single finished item regardlessof their shape texture or colour Nothingwould be wasted and even the smallest scrapswould find themselves being recycled toprovide warm garments and bed linen Thepatches were cut out seemingly at randombut probably to avoid worn parts of the itemsbeing recycled Sadly but unsurprisinglyvery few examples of this early form of crazypatchwork have survived

It seems likely that better off Victorian ladieswould have seen this type of work and spottedits potential for incorporating scraps ofbrocades silks satins and velvets together

with cast-off ribbons and laces into luxuriousnew creations Fashions at this time were forfull dresses containing yards of fabricsopulent ball gowns and wonderfully patternedand textured interior furnishings

However the major influence in promoting thepopularity of the crazy patchwork techniqueis thought to have been the first officialWorlds Fair the Centennial Exposition heldin Philadelphia Pennsylvania in the year1876 where the most popular exhibits camefrom Japan Crazed porcelain vases withirregular shapes were greatly admired byvisitors and people flocked to the Japanesestand to see the crazed artworkNeedlewomen who admired these vases thenbegan to interpret the lines of the crazed andcrackled finish of the Japanese porcelain in theirregular outlines of their crazy patchwork andso a new trend began

Stitchers would take great care to plan theirwork carefully as the Victorian method ofcrazy patchwork meant there was enormouspotential for creative expression in the shapesand sizes of patches as well as the almostlimitless choice of embellishments available

Patterns and templates werent used in crazypatchwork as the patches were freely cut inasymmetrical shapes and then stitched to a

10

foundation fabric to fit in with adjoiningpatches After this process was completedthe seams were elaborately embroidered witha colourful and to modern eyes gaudyvariety of threads and stitches Then thewhole work was embellished with whateverthe seamstress had to hand - buttons andbows silk flowers ribbons lace beads andeven feathers She might also decide torecord important events and anniversaries byembroidering names dates and perhapsincluding scraps from a Christening robe oranother garment worn to an important eventso her finished item would have had realemotional value

Many beautiful embroidered motifs ofanimals and flowers were stitched in thecentres of some of the patches and womenwho were talented in decorative paintingwould sometimes paint images onto theircrazy quilts Finished crazy quilts were neverintended as utilitarian quilts Their solepurpose was to show off the makersembroidery skills and to decorate the home

Mid 20th century magazine project

Crazy patchwork bag kit fromCrazy Creation Devon

wwwcrazycreationcouk

The crazy patchwork trend was relativelyshort lived fading in the 1920s and early1930s when it lost much of the lavishVictorian style and decoration Fabricsbecame less luxurious and designs less well- crazy There was a limited revival in the1950s and 60s perhaps influenced by thepopularity of crazy paving in towns andgardens but designs were much simplerFewer embellishments were used and moreuse was made of the sewing machine Ofcourse by this time many sewing machineswere able to offer decorative stitches whichmade an attractive substitute for thetraditional hand embroidering of thepatchwork seams

Today this fun and just a little crazytechnique is enjoying a revival with fresh andinnovative ideas and creative use of thewonderful range of fabrics and delightful kitsnow available

7

To make 6 birds you will need

8rdquo x 15rdquo piece of felt or other suitable fabricfor birdsrsquo bodies

8rdquo x 15rdquo piece of felt for backing

Six printed cotton fabric scraps for wingseach measuring approx 3rdquo x 1 frac12rdquo

8rdquo x 15rdquo piece of Bondaweb plus smallpieces for wings

Black and yellow stranded cotton floss

6 wooden clothes pegs (the wooden springclip variety)

Temporary fabric marker pen

Hot glue gun

Black thread for machine needle

Embroidery darning foot for machine

Making your birds

Fuse your piece of Bondaweb to the reverseof the fabric yoursquove chosen for the birdsrsquobodies

Peel off the backing paper and then fuse thefelt backing to the reverse of the body fabricmaking a sort of sandwich

Print and cut out the bird templates - they aregiven actual size Cut 3 as given thenreverse your template for the other 3

Position your bird templates on the front ofthe fabric sandwich you just made and drawaround them with the temporary fabricmarker pen You might find it easier tomatch their wings if you number them insome way now then number the wings onthe Bondaweb as you trace them

Trace the birdsrsquo wings onto Bondaweb(remember that 3 will need to be reversed)and then iron the Bondaweb to the back ofyour printed fabric scraps

Cut out the birdsrsquo wings then peel off thepaper backing and fuse the wings into placeon the birdsrsquo bodies

You will now have six bodies ready forfreestyle machine embroidery Itrsquos mucheasier to stitch and then cut them out asotherwise theyrsquore very fiddly - particularlythe tails

8

With black or other dark thread in yourmachine needle and light coloured thread inyour bobbin stitch twice around the outline ofeach bird (just inside the outline you drew)and the wing Remember your stitchingdoesnrsquot need to be perfect - yoursquore aiming fora sketchy slightly scribbled sort of effect

Cut out birds - if your stitching was a bitwonky in places and you have to cut throughit this doesnrsquot really matter

Stitch details using 1 strand of black floss forthe eyes and 2 strands for the beak and feet

With your hot glue gun glue a peg to thereverse of each bird

Finished Now just peg them to a line (Iused jumbo ric-rac braid) to display yourtreasures

9

A very Victoriantrend

Detail from Victorian crazy patchwork tea cosy

Before the trend for crazy patchwork reallytook off in the mid 19th century this techniquewas the preserve of the less-well off and thriftyhousewife Many different kinds of fabric -cotton wool and linen for example would beincluded in a single finished item regardlessof their shape texture or colour Nothingwould be wasted and even the smallest scrapswould find themselves being recycled toprovide warm garments and bed linen Thepatches were cut out seemingly at randombut probably to avoid worn parts of the itemsbeing recycled Sadly but unsurprisinglyvery few examples of this early form of crazypatchwork have survived

It seems likely that better off Victorian ladieswould have seen this type of work and spottedits potential for incorporating scraps ofbrocades silks satins and velvets together

with cast-off ribbons and laces into luxuriousnew creations Fashions at this time were forfull dresses containing yards of fabricsopulent ball gowns and wonderfully patternedand textured interior furnishings

However the major influence in promoting thepopularity of the crazy patchwork techniqueis thought to have been the first officialWorlds Fair the Centennial Exposition heldin Philadelphia Pennsylvania in the year1876 where the most popular exhibits camefrom Japan Crazed porcelain vases withirregular shapes were greatly admired byvisitors and people flocked to the Japanesestand to see the crazed artworkNeedlewomen who admired these vases thenbegan to interpret the lines of the crazed andcrackled finish of the Japanese porcelain in theirregular outlines of their crazy patchwork andso a new trend began

Stitchers would take great care to plan theirwork carefully as the Victorian method ofcrazy patchwork meant there was enormouspotential for creative expression in the shapesand sizes of patches as well as the almostlimitless choice of embellishments available

Patterns and templates werent used in crazypatchwork as the patches were freely cut inasymmetrical shapes and then stitched to a

10

foundation fabric to fit in with adjoiningpatches After this process was completedthe seams were elaborately embroidered witha colourful and to modern eyes gaudyvariety of threads and stitches Then thewhole work was embellished with whateverthe seamstress had to hand - buttons andbows silk flowers ribbons lace beads andeven feathers She might also decide torecord important events and anniversaries byembroidering names dates and perhapsincluding scraps from a Christening robe oranother garment worn to an important eventso her finished item would have had realemotional value

Many beautiful embroidered motifs ofanimals and flowers were stitched in thecentres of some of the patches and womenwho were talented in decorative paintingwould sometimes paint images onto theircrazy quilts Finished crazy quilts were neverintended as utilitarian quilts Their solepurpose was to show off the makersembroidery skills and to decorate the home

Mid 20th century magazine project

Crazy patchwork bag kit fromCrazy Creation Devon

wwwcrazycreationcouk

The crazy patchwork trend was relativelyshort lived fading in the 1920s and early1930s when it lost much of the lavishVictorian style and decoration Fabricsbecame less luxurious and designs less well- crazy There was a limited revival in the1950s and 60s perhaps influenced by thepopularity of crazy paving in towns andgardens but designs were much simplerFewer embellishments were used and moreuse was made of the sewing machine Ofcourse by this time many sewing machineswere able to offer decorative stitches whichmade an attractive substitute for thetraditional hand embroidering of thepatchwork seams

Today this fun and just a little crazytechnique is enjoying a revival with fresh andinnovative ideas and creative use of thewonderful range of fabrics and delightful kitsnow available

8

With black or other dark thread in yourmachine needle and light coloured thread inyour bobbin stitch twice around the outline ofeach bird (just inside the outline you drew)and the wing Remember your stitchingdoesnrsquot need to be perfect - yoursquore aiming fora sketchy slightly scribbled sort of effect

Cut out birds - if your stitching was a bitwonky in places and you have to cut throughit this doesnrsquot really matter

Stitch details using 1 strand of black floss forthe eyes and 2 strands for the beak and feet

With your hot glue gun glue a peg to thereverse of each bird

Finished Now just peg them to a line (Iused jumbo ric-rac braid) to display yourtreasures

9

A very Victoriantrend

Detail from Victorian crazy patchwork tea cosy

Before the trend for crazy patchwork reallytook off in the mid 19th century this techniquewas the preserve of the less-well off and thriftyhousewife Many different kinds of fabric -cotton wool and linen for example would beincluded in a single finished item regardlessof their shape texture or colour Nothingwould be wasted and even the smallest scrapswould find themselves being recycled toprovide warm garments and bed linen Thepatches were cut out seemingly at randombut probably to avoid worn parts of the itemsbeing recycled Sadly but unsurprisinglyvery few examples of this early form of crazypatchwork have survived

It seems likely that better off Victorian ladieswould have seen this type of work and spottedits potential for incorporating scraps ofbrocades silks satins and velvets together

with cast-off ribbons and laces into luxuriousnew creations Fashions at this time were forfull dresses containing yards of fabricsopulent ball gowns and wonderfully patternedand textured interior furnishings

However the major influence in promoting thepopularity of the crazy patchwork techniqueis thought to have been the first officialWorlds Fair the Centennial Exposition heldin Philadelphia Pennsylvania in the year1876 where the most popular exhibits camefrom Japan Crazed porcelain vases withirregular shapes were greatly admired byvisitors and people flocked to the Japanesestand to see the crazed artworkNeedlewomen who admired these vases thenbegan to interpret the lines of the crazed andcrackled finish of the Japanese porcelain in theirregular outlines of their crazy patchwork andso a new trend began

Stitchers would take great care to plan theirwork carefully as the Victorian method ofcrazy patchwork meant there was enormouspotential for creative expression in the shapesand sizes of patches as well as the almostlimitless choice of embellishments available

Patterns and templates werent used in crazypatchwork as the patches were freely cut inasymmetrical shapes and then stitched to a

10

foundation fabric to fit in with adjoiningpatches After this process was completedthe seams were elaborately embroidered witha colourful and to modern eyes gaudyvariety of threads and stitches Then thewhole work was embellished with whateverthe seamstress had to hand - buttons andbows silk flowers ribbons lace beads andeven feathers She might also decide torecord important events and anniversaries byembroidering names dates and perhapsincluding scraps from a Christening robe oranother garment worn to an important eventso her finished item would have had realemotional value

Many beautiful embroidered motifs ofanimals and flowers were stitched in thecentres of some of the patches and womenwho were talented in decorative paintingwould sometimes paint images onto theircrazy quilts Finished crazy quilts were neverintended as utilitarian quilts Their solepurpose was to show off the makersembroidery skills and to decorate the home

Mid 20th century magazine project

Crazy patchwork bag kit fromCrazy Creation Devon

wwwcrazycreationcouk

The crazy patchwork trend was relativelyshort lived fading in the 1920s and early1930s when it lost much of the lavishVictorian style and decoration Fabricsbecame less luxurious and designs less well- crazy There was a limited revival in the1950s and 60s perhaps influenced by thepopularity of crazy paving in towns andgardens but designs were much simplerFewer embellishments were used and moreuse was made of the sewing machine Ofcourse by this time many sewing machineswere able to offer decorative stitches whichmade an attractive substitute for thetraditional hand embroidering of thepatchwork seams

Today this fun and just a little crazytechnique is enjoying a revival with fresh andinnovative ideas and creative use of thewonderful range of fabrics and delightful kitsnow available

9

A very Victoriantrend

Detail from Victorian crazy patchwork tea cosy

Before the trend for crazy patchwork reallytook off in the mid 19th century this techniquewas the preserve of the less-well off and thriftyhousewife Many different kinds of fabric -cotton wool and linen for example would beincluded in a single finished item regardlessof their shape texture or colour Nothingwould be wasted and even the smallest scrapswould find themselves being recycled toprovide warm garments and bed linen Thepatches were cut out seemingly at randombut probably to avoid worn parts of the itemsbeing recycled Sadly but unsurprisinglyvery few examples of this early form of crazypatchwork have survived

It seems likely that better off Victorian ladieswould have seen this type of work and spottedits potential for incorporating scraps ofbrocades silks satins and velvets together

with cast-off ribbons and laces into luxuriousnew creations Fashions at this time were forfull dresses containing yards of fabricsopulent ball gowns and wonderfully patternedand textured interior furnishings

However the major influence in promoting thepopularity of the crazy patchwork techniqueis thought to have been the first officialWorlds Fair the Centennial Exposition heldin Philadelphia Pennsylvania in the year1876 where the most popular exhibits camefrom Japan Crazed porcelain vases withirregular shapes were greatly admired byvisitors and people flocked to the Japanesestand to see the crazed artworkNeedlewomen who admired these vases thenbegan to interpret the lines of the crazed andcrackled finish of the Japanese porcelain in theirregular outlines of their crazy patchwork andso a new trend began

Stitchers would take great care to plan theirwork carefully as the Victorian method ofcrazy patchwork meant there was enormouspotential for creative expression in the shapesand sizes of patches as well as the almostlimitless choice of embellishments available

Patterns and templates werent used in crazypatchwork as the patches were freely cut inasymmetrical shapes and then stitched to a

10

foundation fabric to fit in with adjoiningpatches After this process was completedthe seams were elaborately embroidered witha colourful and to modern eyes gaudyvariety of threads and stitches Then thewhole work was embellished with whateverthe seamstress had to hand - buttons andbows silk flowers ribbons lace beads andeven feathers She might also decide torecord important events and anniversaries byembroidering names dates and perhapsincluding scraps from a Christening robe oranother garment worn to an important eventso her finished item would have had realemotional value

Many beautiful embroidered motifs ofanimals and flowers were stitched in thecentres of some of the patches and womenwho were talented in decorative paintingwould sometimes paint images onto theircrazy quilts Finished crazy quilts were neverintended as utilitarian quilts Their solepurpose was to show off the makersembroidery skills and to decorate the home

Mid 20th century magazine project

Crazy patchwork bag kit fromCrazy Creation Devon

wwwcrazycreationcouk

The crazy patchwork trend was relativelyshort lived fading in the 1920s and early1930s when it lost much of the lavishVictorian style and decoration Fabricsbecame less luxurious and designs less well- crazy There was a limited revival in the1950s and 60s perhaps influenced by thepopularity of crazy paving in towns andgardens but designs were much simplerFewer embellishments were used and moreuse was made of the sewing machine Ofcourse by this time many sewing machineswere able to offer decorative stitches whichmade an attractive substitute for thetraditional hand embroidering of thepatchwork seams

Today this fun and just a little crazytechnique is enjoying a revival with fresh andinnovative ideas and creative use of thewonderful range of fabrics and delightful kitsnow available

10

foundation fabric to fit in with adjoiningpatches After this process was completedthe seams were elaborately embroidered witha colourful and to modern eyes gaudyvariety of threads and stitches Then thewhole work was embellished with whateverthe seamstress had to hand - buttons andbows silk flowers ribbons lace beads andeven feathers She might also decide torecord important events and anniversaries byembroidering names dates and perhapsincluding scraps from a Christening robe oranother garment worn to an important eventso her finished item would have had realemotional value

Many beautiful embroidered motifs ofanimals and flowers were stitched in thecentres of some of the patches and womenwho were talented in decorative paintingwould sometimes paint images onto theircrazy quilts Finished crazy quilts were neverintended as utilitarian quilts Their solepurpose was to show off the makersembroidery skills and to decorate the home

Mid 20th century magazine project

Crazy patchwork bag kit fromCrazy Creation Devon

wwwcrazycreationcouk

The crazy patchwork trend was relativelyshort lived fading in the 1920s and early1930s when it lost much of the lavishVictorian style and decoration Fabricsbecame less luxurious and designs less well- crazy There was a limited revival in the1950s and 60s perhaps influenced by thepopularity of crazy paving in towns andgardens but designs were much simplerFewer embellishments were used and moreuse was made of the sewing machine Ofcourse by this time many sewing machineswere able to offer decorative stitches whichmade an attractive substitute for thetraditional hand embroidering of thepatchwork seams

Today this fun and just a little crazytechnique is enjoying a revival with fresh andinnovative ideas and creative use of thewonderful range of fabrics and delightful kitsnow available

11

Three Patchwork Eco-totesDoing your bit for the environment is fun with these three cute tote bags Simple to

make but definitely not ordinary with the addition of your choice of three patchworkdesigns to applique to the front of your bag

Choose from Stitch and Flip bird Crazy Patchwork heart or Hexie Bunny

12

All three tote bags are made in the same way so Ihave started with the instructions to make your basicbag I have made my handles long enough to go overmy shoulder (as my hands are usually full of dogsrsquoleads and other shopping) but this is personalpreference and itrsquos easy to alter the handle lengths ifyou wish

The detailed instructions for creating your appliqueshapes follow after the tote bag instructions Seamallowance is frac14rdquo except where stated otherwise

To make one basic tote you will need

Three rectangles of medium-weight cottonfabric - one measuring 32rdquo x 16rdquo and the othertwo each measuring 28rdquo x 2rdquo

To make your basic tote

Take your larger rectangle of fabric and fold it inhalf along the longer side so you have a squareof fabric with 16rdquo sides

Press the fold This will be the bottom of yourbag

NOW APPLY YOUR CHOSEN APPLIQUEDESIGN to the front of the bag You shouldposition it centrally vertically and between 3and 4rdquo up from the fold you have just pressedinto your fabric

With right sides together join the side seams ofyour bag

Turn your bag inside out and press the seamscarefully

Now stitch down each side again frac12rdquo from theprevious seam This makes a French seam - afolded pocket that hides the raw edge of thefabric

Still with your bag inside out press the seamsagain

Now turn over the top of the back first frac14 andthen frac12rdquo and press Pin or tack if liked then stitchall the way around the top

Turn bag right way round and press The mainpart of your bag is now finished

Now make the handles Take your two longthin rectangles and fold in half lengthwaysright side inwards then press firmly

Stitch across one short end then all down onelong side

Push the blunt end of a knitting needle or otherlong thin object up into the tube of fabric -because you stitched across one short end theneedle wonrsquot slide straight through but will pushthe tube through itself turning it right-side out

When turned out press your handle - the seamshould run down one side If you experiencedifficulties flattening it for pressing roll the seambetween your finger and thumb - this will turnand flatten it

Top stitch the full length of your handle frac14rdquofrom the seamed edge

Turn under the unfinished edge of your handleand press Repeat with the other handle

Pin handles into place at top of bag andmachine stitch to bag

Stitching in a crossed rectangle isnice and strong

Your basic tote bag is now finished

13

Hexie Bunny Shape

You will need

12rdquo square piece of white or pale colouredmedium to lightweight cotton or poly-cottonfabric

Assortment of fabric scraps sufficient to cutapprox 20 hexagons measuring 3rdquo w x 2 58rdquohigh with sides of 1 frac12rdquo

Sharpie or other thick felt tip pen

Temporary fabric spray adhesive

Darningembroidery foot for your sewingmachine (optional)

Cream and black thread for needle cream orother light-coloured thread for bobbin

To make your bunny

Cut out the rabbit shape template (given actualsize though you can enlarge or reduce ifpreferred - donrsquot forget that doing this will alterthe number of hexagons you will need)

Iron your white fabric and place it on a clean flatsurface

Draw around the edge of the template onto thefabric with your sharpie or felt tip pen

Make sure the ink has bled through so that yourlines can be seen from the other side of the fabric- this is very important

Cut your hexagons from your scraps of fabricYou will need approximately 20 but this mayvary depending upon how you decide to positionthem on your bunny outline

Spray the bunny shape with temporary fabricadhesive and begin to cover it with cut outhexagons butting them up well against eachother

Continue in this way until you have covered allthe shapes Pat your hexagons down well tomake sure theyrsquore properly adhered to the fabricbase

You should still be able to see the outline of yourbunny shape on the other side when you flip thefabric over

Set your sewing machine to a wide short zigzagstitch - rather as though you were going to stitcha buttonhole - though the stitch length can be alittle longer than for buttonholes

Stitch all along the edges of the hexagonssecuring them to the fabric below Make sureyour zigzag is wide enough to catch in thehexagons on either side of the join Continueuntil yoursquove stitched all the hexagons to yourbase fabric

14

Turn your work over and with a straightmachine stitch stitch all around the edge of theshape just inside the lines you drew This willkeep the hexagons firmly in place when you cutout

Cut out your bunny shape

Position on tote bag panel (see instructions onpage 2) and secure with temporary fabric sprayadhesive

Drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine andfit darning foot With black thread in yourneedle and cream in your bobbin stitch aroundthe edge of the bunny twice to secure him firmlyto your bag You want a sort of scribbled effect- not too neat

If you prefer not to use freehand machinestitching then you can secure him with a zigzagstitch or simply topstitch him to the bag panel

Now complete your tote following theinstructions on page 2

Crazy Heart Shape

You will need

12rdquo square piece of lightweight white or palecoloured cotton or poly-cotton fabric

Assortment of fabric scraps with at least onestraight edge- I chose shades of pink for myheart

Pinking shears (optional)

Temporary spray fabric adhesive

Embroiderydarning foot for sewing machine(optional) black and cream thread for needlelight coloured thread in bobbin

To make your heart shape

Cut out a heart shape - I havenrsquot provided atemplate as these are so easily found It shouldbe about 10rdquo from top to bottom

Iron your white fabric and place it on a cleanflat surface

15

Draw around the edge of the template onto thefabric with your sharpie or felt tip pen

Make sure the ink has bled through so that yourlines can be seen from the other side of the fabric- this is very important

Decide which scrap will be your first piece andcut it so it has 5 straight edges It doesnrsquot have tobe any particular shape just one that is pleasingto your eye as this will be the foundation piecefor your crazy patchwork

Spray a little adhesive onto the reverse of thisscrap and position it on your heart right side upPat down to hold it securely in place It doesnrsquothave to be exactly in the centre but you will needto have space all around it

Take another scrap and lay it right side downdown on top of the first piece lining up one of thestraight edges

Pin the second scrap in place in place and sew a14 seam down the lined up edge through boththe foundation piece

Press the seam open so the piece lies flat on yourbase fabric You can spray a little adhesive onthe reverse if you wish to secure it in place as youwork on different parts of your heart

Move to another side of your foundation pieceand repeat you may find yourself covering upsome of the other piece of fabric - thatrsquosabsolutely fine

Continue working around that first piece layeringand sewing Use different shapes and size scrapsas you go to create an interesting patternContinue this way until your whole heart shapeis covered

Press then flip your work over and machine stitchall around heart just inside the line you drew withyour felt tip pen This will keep all the patchesin place when you cut your heart out

Cut your heart out - I used pinking shears for anice decorative effect - but this is optional

If liked use some of the decorative stitches onyour machine to mimic the hand embellishmentused on many crazy patchwork designs Youcould choose different coloured threads tocontrast with your fabric choices but I just usedcream

Position on tote bag panel (see instructions onpage 2) and secure with temporary fabric sprayadhesive

Drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine andfit darning foot With black thread in your needleand cream in your bobbin stitch around the edgeof the heart twice to secure it firmly to your bagYou want a sort of scribbled effect - not too neat

If you prefer not to use freehand machinestitching then you can simply topstitch it to thebag panel

Now complete your tote following theinstructions on page 2

16

Bird in Flight Shape

You will need

12rdquo square piece of lightweight white or palecoloured cotton or poly-cotton fabric Strips of scrap fabric of varying widths Sharpie or other thick felt tip pen Temporary fabric spray adhesive Darningembroidery foot for your sewing

machine (optional) Cream and black thread for needle cream or

other light-coloured thread for bobbin

To make your bird

Cut out the bird shape template (given actual sizethough you can enlarge or reduce if preferred)

Iron your white fabric and place it on a cleanflat surface

Draw around the edge of the template onto thefabric with your sharpie or felt tip pen

Make sure the ink has bled through so that yourlines can be seen from the other side of thefabric - this is very important

Lay your first strip of fabric right side up acrossthe top wing and tail of the bird as shown in the

photograph securing with a little sprayadhesive

Take your next strip of fabric and place right sidedown aligning the two long sides Machine intoplace with a frac14rdquo seam

Flip the second strip of fabric over and press down

Repeat with subsequent strips of fabric until yourbird shape is covered

Press then turn over and machine stitch allaround the edge of your bird just inside the felttip lines you drew Cut bird shape out along lines

Position on tote bag panel (see instructions onpage 2) and secure with temporary fabric sprayadhesive

Drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine andfit darning foot With black thread in your needleand cream in your bobbin stitch around the edgeof the heart twice to secure it firmly to your bagYou want a sort of scribbled effect - not too neat

If you prefer not to use freehand machinestitching then you can simply topstitch it to thebag panel

Now complete your tote following theinstructions on page 2

17

18

19

Really Easy Fabric-coveredLampshades

After we installed our new wood-burning stoveat Coombe Leigh before Christmas (very toastytoes) we needed to decorate the room as thealterations needed had left it looking definitelythe worse for wear

Our existing table lamp was fine but the shadewas looking a bit tired suffering from years ofservice and enhanced by a nice mud splatterfrom the time Ben dashed in from his walk andshook himself vigorously before I had time tocatch him Rather than go to the expense ofpurchasing a brand-new shade I decided to usethis easy technique to give the old shade a wholenew look - and was so pleased with the results Ithought Irsquod share how I did it

This is a really easy and quick technique - a greatway to use a special piece of fabric - and youdonrsquot need to sew a single stitch

The fabric you choose shouldnrsquot be too heavy ifyou want plenty of light to filter through - I useda quilting weight cotton - and for the best effecttry to relate the scale of the pattern on your fabricto the size of the lampshade yoursquore covering

You will need

Smooth paper of fabric lampshade

Newspaper to make template

Sufficient fabric to cover shade (about frac12yard for an average sized shade but you willbe able to see exactly when yoursquove drawnyour template)

Fabric or PVA glue

Pencil

Scissors

To make your shade

First make your template Place the shadeseam down on your piece of newspaper andmark the top and base seam position on thepaper Starting from the seam and tracingaround the base with your pencil gently rollthe shade until you reach the seam again

20

Roll your shade back along this traced linethis time marking the paper along the topedge Cut out your paper pattern

Before you continue double-check that it fitsproperly Wrap your paper template aroundthe shade and check all is well Make anyadjustments to the template that are needed

Place your template on your fabric and drawaround it adding a 1rdquo seam allowance to thecurved edges and frac14 to the straight ends

Turn under and press a frac14rdquo turning on onestraight edge of your fabric

Apply a thin line of glue along the seam ofthe lampshade Position the raw edge of yourfabric on the glued line centering the edgeon the seam so that the fabric overlaps theshade edges by frac12rdquo at the top and bottom

Apply a thin line of glue along the top andbase edges of the shade

Working from the glued end smooth thefabric around the shade making sure it isfirmly stuck down on the rims Stop 1rdquo fromthe glued end

Squeeze a thin line of glue on top of the rawedge of fabric where you began and thensmooth down the turned edge to cover theraw edge and allow the whole shade to dry

You may or may not need to clip the excessfabric before you glue it to the reverse of theshade Try folding it down with your fingersfirst to see if it sits comfortably or whetherthe edge does need to be clipped

Clip if necessary

Apply a little glue to the reverse of the excessfabric at the top and bottom edges of theshade

Fold the fabric to the inside of the shade andpress down firmly

FINISHED

21

Nobody needsreminding that

February 14th isSt Valentinersquos

day hellip

Yes February 14th is a special day for loverswhen romance is most definitely in the air -and hopefully in the post()hellip but who was StValentine and how did it all begin

Nearly 2000 years ago in ancient RomeFebruary 14th was the day dedicated to thegoddess Juno the deity of women andmarriage Valentine was an early Christianbishop who would marry young couples insecret defying the Emperor Claudius who hadforbidden such ceremonies EventuallyValentine was caught conducting a secretmarriage ceremony and condemned to be putto death

Whilst he was in prison awaiting hisexecution many young couples were able totoss small gifts of flowers food and othertokens of their appreciation through his cellwindow Eventually Valentinersquos executiondate arrived - the fourteenth of February AD

270 and as he waited to be taken out to diethe Bishop sent a final message to the youngwoman he loved - signing it simply ldquofromyour Valentinerdquo

In he year 496 AD Pope Gelasius choseBishop Valentine as the patron saint of loverswho would be honoured on the fourteenth ofevery February Over the years ValentinesDay has evolved into a holiday when giftscards flowers and chocolates are given tothose we love or would like to start arelationship with And it is all because of along ago Roman Bishop named Valentine

Over the centuries many Valentine legendshave evolved and the theme of this monthrsquosmagazine was inspired by the old Englishtradition - that February 14th is the day thatbirds fall in love and choose their mates hellip

22

Owls in Love Cushion CoverNine cute little owls - and two who simply canrsquot take their eyes off each other

Sized to fit 16rdquo square cushion pad

23

To make a 16rdquo cover you will need

Blanket pieces or other woollen fabric Onepiece 16rdquo square and two pieces 16rdquo x 12rdquo

3 x 9rdquo square felt for owl bodies ndash colourstoffee oak and caramel

2 x 6rdquo square felt for owl spectacles ndash coloursmushroom and skintone

6rdquo square felt for owl eyes ndash colour buttermilk

Small scrap of red felt for heart

Scraps of fabric for owl breasts

18 small buttons (9 matching pairs) for centresof eyes ndash or if you are making for a childrsquosroom then substitute buttons with small circlesof felt

Gold embroidery floss for beaks and feet

Dark brown dark red and very pale greenembroidery floss

Spray fabric adhesive or Bondaweb

Pinking shears

Make your applique panel

Make your owls up before attaching them to the frontof your cushion pad

Cut out 7 ordinary owls and 2 owls with wingoutstretched from felt reversing your templateso the wings are on opposite sides of the owls

Cut out spectacles and eyes from felt and breastsfrom your fabric

scraps Cut along the base edge of the breastpiece with pinking shears if you have them asthis will give a nice feather effect on yourfinished owls

Take the square piece of your woollen fabric andfold it into three equal parts both vertically andhorizontally Press lightly then open out Yourfabric will now be divided into 9 equal-sizedsquares by the creases you have created

Place one owl in each square using the photo atthe top of the pattern Do not attach them to thebase fabric You are positioning them at thisstage to help you choose how to position theirbreasts spectacles and eyes

Position breasts spectacles eyes and buttons onowls playing around with them until you arehappy with their arrangement If you are usingdifferent designs of fabric for the breasts thentake your time at this stage to make sure yoursquovechosen the best combination of fabrics

When you are happy with your arrangementtake each owl in turn and attach first the breastand then the spectacles using spray fabricadhesive The spectacles should cover the rawedge at the top of the breast

Straight machine stitch along the base of the owljust inside the pinked edge then machine zig-zagover the raw edges of the sides of the breasts andstraight around the spectacles and zig-zag downthe second side of the breast You donrsquot need tofully stitch around the bottom of the spectaclesas these will be attached when you add the beak

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

13

Hexie Bunny Shape

You will need

12rdquo square piece of white or pale colouredmedium to lightweight cotton or poly-cottonfabric

Assortment of fabric scraps sufficient to cutapprox 20 hexagons measuring 3rdquo w x 2 58rdquohigh with sides of 1 frac12rdquo

Sharpie or other thick felt tip pen

Temporary fabric spray adhesive

Darningembroidery foot for your sewingmachine (optional)

Cream and black thread for needle cream orother light-coloured thread for bobbin

To make your bunny

Cut out the rabbit shape template (given actualsize though you can enlarge or reduce ifpreferred - donrsquot forget that doing this will alterthe number of hexagons you will need)

Iron your white fabric and place it on a clean flatsurface

Draw around the edge of the template onto thefabric with your sharpie or felt tip pen

Make sure the ink has bled through so that yourlines can be seen from the other side of the fabric- this is very important

Cut your hexagons from your scraps of fabricYou will need approximately 20 but this mayvary depending upon how you decide to positionthem on your bunny outline

Spray the bunny shape with temporary fabricadhesive and begin to cover it with cut outhexagons butting them up well against eachother

Continue in this way until you have covered allthe shapes Pat your hexagons down well tomake sure theyrsquore properly adhered to the fabricbase

You should still be able to see the outline of yourbunny shape on the other side when you flip thefabric over

Set your sewing machine to a wide short zigzagstitch - rather as though you were going to stitcha buttonhole - though the stitch length can be alittle longer than for buttonholes

Stitch all along the edges of the hexagonssecuring them to the fabric below Make sureyour zigzag is wide enough to catch in thehexagons on either side of the join Continueuntil yoursquove stitched all the hexagons to yourbase fabric

14

Turn your work over and with a straightmachine stitch stitch all around the edge of theshape just inside the lines you drew This willkeep the hexagons firmly in place when you cutout

Cut out your bunny shape

Position on tote bag panel (see instructions onpage 2) and secure with temporary fabric sprayadhesive

Drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine andfit darning foot With black thread in yourneedle and cream in your bobbin stitch aroundthe edge of the bunny twice to secure him firmlyto your bag You want a sort of scribbled effect- not too neat

If you prefer not to use freehand machinestitching then you can secure him with a zigzagstitch or simply topstitch him to the bag panel

Now complete your tote following theinstructions on page 2

Crazy Heart Shape

You will need

12rdquo square piece of lightweight white or palecoloured cotton or poly-cotton fabric

Assortment of fabric scraps with at least onestraight edge- I chose shades of pink for myheart

Pinking shears (optional)

Temporary spray fabric adhesive

Embroiderydarning foot for sewing machine(optional) black and cream thread for needlelight coloured thread in bobbin

To make your heart shape

Cut out a heart shape - I havenrsquot provided atemplate as these are so easily found It shouldbe about 10rdquo from top to bottom

Iron your white fabric and place it on a cleanflat surface

15

Draw around the edge of the template onto thefabric with your sharpie or felt tip pen

Make sure the ink has bled through so that yourlines can be seen from the other side of the fabric- this is very important

Decide which scrap will be your first piece andcut it so it has 5 straight edges It doesnrsquot have tobe any particular shape just one that is pleasingto your eye as this will be the foundation piecefor your crazy patchwork

Spray a little adhesive onto the reverse of thisscrap and position it on your heart right side upPat down to hold it securely in place It doesnrsquothave to be exactly in the centre but you will needto have space all around it

Take another scrap and lay it right side downdown on top of the first piece lining up one of thestraight edges

Pin the second scrap in place in place and sew a14 seam down the lined up edge through boththe foundation piece

Press the seam open so the piece lies flat on yourbase fabric You can spray a little adhesive onthe reverse if you wish to secure it in place as youwork on different parts of your heart

Move to another side of your foundation pieceand repeat you may find yourself covering upsome of the other piece of fabric - thatrsquosabsolutely fine

Continue working around that first piece layeringand sewing Use different shapes and size scrapsas you go to create an interesting patternContinue this way until your whole heart shapeis covered

Press then flip your work over and machine stitchall around heart just inside the line you drew withyour felt tip pen This will keep all the patchesin place when you cut your heart out

Cut your heart out - I used pinking shears for anice decorative effect - but this is optional

If liked use some of the decorative stitches onyour machine to mimic the hand embellishmentused on many crazy patchwork designs Youcould choose different coloured threads tocontrast with your fabric choices but I just usedcream

Position on tote bag panel (see instructions onpage 2) and secure with temporary fabric sprayadhesive

Drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine andfit darning foot With black thread in your needleand cream in your bobbin stitch around the edgeof the heart twice to secure it firmly to your bagYou want a sort of scribbled effect - not too neat

If you prefer not to use freehand machinestitching then you can simply topstitch it to thebag panel

Now complete your tote following theinstructions on page 2

16

Bird in Flight Shape

You will need

12rdquo square piece of lightweight white or palecoloured cotton or poly-cotton fabric Strips of scrap fabric of varying widths Sharpie or other thick felt tip pen Temporary fabric spray adhesive Darningembroidery foot for your sewing

machine (optional) Cream and black thread for needle cream or

other light-coloured thread for bobbin

To make your bird

Cut out the bird shape template (given actual sizethough you can enlarge or reduce if preferred)

Iron your white fabric and place it on a cleanflat surface

Draw around the edge of the template onto thefabric with your sharpie or felt tip pen

Make sure the ink has bled through so that yourlines can be seen from the other side of thefabric - this is very important

Lay your first strip of fabric right side up acrossthe top wing and tail of the bird as shown in the

photograph securing with a little sprayadhesive

Take your next strip of fabric and place right sidedown aligning the two long sides Machine intoplace with a frac14rdquo seam

Flip the second strip of fabric over and press down

Repeat with subsequent strips of fabric until yourbird shape is covered

Press then turn over and machine stitch allaround the edge of your bird just inside the felttip lines you drew Cut bird shape out along lines

Position on tote bag panel (see instructions onpage 2) and secure with temporary fabric sprayadhesive

Drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine andfit darning foot With black thread in your needleand cream in your bobbin stitch around the edgeof the heart twice to secure it firmly to your bagYou want a sort of scribbled effect - not too neat

If you prefer not to use freehand machinestitching then you can simply topstitch it to thebag panel

Now complete your tote following theinstructions on page 2

17

18

19

Really Easy Fabric-coveredLampshades

After we installed our new wood-burning stoveat Coombe Leigh before Christmas (very toastytoes) we needed to decorate the room as thealterations needed had left it looking definitelythe worse for wear

Our existing table lamp was fine but the shadewas looking a bit tired suffering from years ofservice and enhanced by a nice mud splatterfrom the time Ben dashed in from his walk andshook himself vigorously before I had time tocatch him Rather than go to the expense ofpurchasing a brand-new shade I decided to usethis easy technique to give the old shade a wholenew look - and was so pleased with the results Ithought Irsquod share how I did it

This is a really easy and quick technique - a greatway to use a special piece of fabric - and youdonrsquot need to sew a single stitch

The fabric you choose shouldnrsquot be too heavy ifyou want plenty of light to filter through - I useda quilting weight cotton - and for the best effecttry to relate the scale of the pattern on your fabricto the size of the lampshade yoursquore covering

You will need

Smooth paper of fabric lampshade

Newspaper to make template

Sufficient fabric to cover shade (about frac12yard for an average sized shade but you willbe able to see exactly when yoursquove drawnyour template)

Fabric or PVA glue

Pencil

Scissors

To make your shade

First make your template Place the shadeseam down on your piece of newspaper andmark the top and base seam position on thepaper Starting from the seam and tracingaround the base with your pencil gently rollthe shade until you reach the seam again

20

Roll your shade back along this traced linethis time marking the paper along the topedge Cut out your paper pattern

Before you continue double-check that it fitsproperly Wrap your paper template aroundthe shade and check all is well Make anyadjustments to the template that are needed

Place your template on your fabric and drawaround it adding a 1rdquo seam allowance to thecurved edges and frac14 to the straight ends

Turn under and press a frac14rdquo turning on onestraight edge of your fabric

Apply a thin line of glue along the seam ofthe lampshade Position the raw edge of yourfabric on the glued line centering the edgeon the seam so that the fabric overlaps theshade edges by frac12rdquo at the top and bottom

Apply a thin line of glue along the top andbase edges of the shade

Working from the glued end smooth thefabric around the shade making sure it isfirmly stuck down on the rims Stop 1rdquo fromthe glued end

Squeeze a thin line of glue on top of the rawedge of fabric where you began and thensmooth down the turned edge to cover theraw edge and allow the whole shade to dry

You may or may not need to clip the excessfabric before you glue it to the reverse of theshade Try folding it down with your fingersfirst to see if it sits comfortably or whetherthe edge does need to be clipped

Clip if necessary

Apply a little glue to the reverse of the excessfabric at the top and bottom edges of theshade

Fold the fabric to the inside of the shade andpress down firmly

FINISHED

21

Nobody needsreminding that

February 14th isSt Valentinersquos

day hellip

Yes February 14th is a special day for loverswhen romance is most definitely in the air -and hopefully in the post()hellip but who was StValentine and how did it all begin

Nearly 2000 years ago in ancient RomeFebruary 14th was the day dedicated to thegoddess Juno the deity of women andmarriage Valentine was an early Christianbishop who would marry young couples insecret defying the Emperor Claudius who hadforbidden such ceremonies EventuallyValentine was caught conducting a secretmarriage ceremony and condemned to be putto death

Whilst he was in prison awaiting hisexecution many young couples were able totoss small gifts of flowers food and othertokens of their appreciation through his cellwindow Eventually Valentinersquos executiondate arrived - the fourteenth of February AD

270 and as he waited to be taken out to diethe Bishop sent a final message to the youngwoman he loved - signing it simply ldquofromyour Valentinerdquo

In he year 496 AD Pope Gelasius choseBishop Valentine as the patron saint of loverswho would be honoured on the fourteenth ofevery February Over the years ValentinesDay has evolved into a holiday when giftscards flowers and chocolates are given tothose we love or would like to start arelationship with And it is all because of along ago Roman Bishop named Valentine

Over the centuries many Valentine legendshave evolved and the theme of this monthrsquosmagazine was inspired by the old Englishtradition - that February 14th is the day thatbirds fall in love and choose their mates hellip

22

Owls in Love Cushion CoverNine cute little owls - and two who simply canrsquot take their eyes off each other

Sized to fit 16rdquo square cushion pad

23

To make a 16rdquo cover you will need

Blanket pieces or other woollen fabric Onepiece 16rdquo square and two pieces 16rdquo x 12rdquo

3 x 9rdquo square felt for owl bodies ndash colourstoffee oak and caramel

2 x 6rdquo square felt for owl spectacles ndash coloursmushroom and skintone

6rdquo square felt for owl eyes ndash colour buttermilk

Small scrap of red felt for heart

Scraps of fabric for owl breasts

18 small buttons (9 matching pairs) for centresof eyes ndash or if you are making for a childrsquosroom then substitute buttons with small circlesof felt

Gold embroidery floss for beaks and feet

Dark brown dark red and very pale greenembroidery floss

Spray fabric adhesive or Bondaweb

Pinking shears

Make your applique panel

Make your owls up before attaching them to the frontof your cushion pad

Cut out 7 ordinary owls and 2 owls with wingoutstretched from felt reversing your templateso the wings are on opposite sides of the owls

Cut out spectacles and eyes from felt and breastsfrom your fabric

scraps Cut along the base edge of the breastpiece with pinking shears if you have them asthis will give a nice feather effect on yourfinished owls

Take the square piece of your woollen fabric andfold it into three equal parts both vertically andhorizontally Press lightly then open out Yourfabric will now be divided into 9 equal-sizedsquares by the creases you have created

Place one owl in each square using the photo atthe top of the pattern Do not attach them to thebase fabric You are positioning them at thisstage to help you choose how to position theirbreasts spectacles and eyes

Position breasts spectacles eyes and buttons onowls playing around with them until you arehappy with their arrangement If you are usingdifferent designs of fabric for the breasts thentake your time at this stage to make sure yoursquovechosen the best combination of fabrics

When you are happy with your arrangementtake each owl in turn and attach first the breastand then the spectacles using spray fabricadhesive The spectacles should cover the rawedge at the top of the breast

Straight machine stitch along the base of the owljust inside the pinked edge then machine zig-zagover the raw edges of the sides of the breasts andstraight around the spectacles and zig-zag downthe second side of the breast You donrsquot need tofully stitch around the bottom of the spectaclesas these will be attached when you add the beak

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

14

Turn your work over and with a straightmachine stitch stitch all around the edge of theshape just inside the lines you drew This willkeep the hexagons firmly in place when you cutout

Cut out your bunny shape

Position on tote bag panel (see instructions onpage 2) and secure with temporary fabric sprayadhesive

Drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine andfit darning foot With black thread in yourneedle and cream in your bobbin stitch aroundthe edge of the bunny twice to secure him firmlyto your bag You want a sort of scribbled effect- not too neat

If you prefer not to use freehand machinestitching then you can secure him with a zigzagstitch or simply topstitch him to the bag panel

Now complete your tote following theinstructions on page 2

Crazy Heart Shape

You will need

12rdquo square piece of lightweight white or palecoloured cotton or poly-cotton fabric

Assortment of fabric scraps with at least onestraight edge- I chose shades of pink for myheart

Pinking shears (optional)

Temporary spray fabric adhesive

Embroiderydarning foot for sewing machine(optional) black and cream thread for needlelight coloured thread in bobbin

To make your heart shape

Cut out a heart shape - I havenrsquot provided atemplate as these are so easily found It shouldbe about 10rdquo from top to bottom

Iron your white fabric and place it on a cleanflat surface

15

Draw around the edge of the template onto thefabric with your sharpie or felt tip pen

Make sure the ink has bled through so that yourlines can be seen from the other side of the fabric- this is very important

Decide which scrap will be your first piece andcut it so it has 5 straight edges It doesnrsquot have tobe any particular shape just one that is pleasingto your eye as this will be the foundation piecefor your crazy patchwork

Spray a little adhesive onto the reverse of thisscrap and position it on your heart right side upPat down to hold it securely in place It doesnrsquothave to be exactly in the centre but you will needto have space all around it

Take another scrap and lay it right side downdown on top of the first piece lining up one of thestraight edges

Pin the second scrap in place in place and sew a14 seam down the lined up edge through boththe foundation piece

Press the seam open so the piece lies flat on yourbase fabric You can spray a little adhesive onthe reverse if you wish to secure it in place as youwork on different parts of your heart

Move to another side of your foundation pieceand repeat you may find yourself covering upsome of the other piece of fabric - thatrsquosabsolutely fine

Continue working around that first piece layeringand sewing Use different shapes and size scrapsas you go to create an interesting patternContinue this way until your whole heart shapeis covered

Press then flip your work over and machine stitchall around heart just inside the line you drew withyour felt tip pen This will keep all the patchesin place when you cut your heart out

Cut your heart out - I used pinking shears for anice decorative effect - but this is optional

If liked use some of the decorative stitches onyour machine to mimic the hand embellishmentused on many crazy patchwork designs Youcould choose different coloured threads tocontrast with your fabric choices but I just usedcream

Position on tote bag panel (see instructions onpage 2) and secure with temporary fabric sprayadhesive

Drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine andfit darning foot With black thread in your needleand cream in your bobbin stitch around the edgeof the heart twice to secure it firmly to your bagYou want a sort of scribbled effect - not too neat

If you prefer not to use freehand machinestitching then you can simply topstitch it to thebag panel

Now complete your tote following theinstructions on page 2

16

Bird in Flight Shape

You will need

12rdquo square piece of lightweight white or palecoloured cotton or poly-cotton fabric Strips of scrap fabric of varying widths Sharpie or other thick felt tip pen Temporary fabric spray adhesive Darningembroidery foot for your sewing

machine (optional) Cream and black thread for needle cream or

other light-coloured thread for bobbin

To make your bird

Cut out the bird shape template (given actual sizethough you can enlarge or reduce if preferred)

Iron your white fabric and place it on a cleanflat surface

Draw around the edge of the template onto thefabric with your sharpie or felt tip pen

Make sure the ink has bled through so that yourlines can be seen from the other side of thefabric - this is very important

Lay your first strip of fabric right side up acrossthe top wing and tail of the bird as shown in the

photograph securing with a little sprayadhesive

Take your next strip of fabric and place right sidedown aligning the two long sides Machine intoplace with a frac14rdquo seam

Flip the second strip of fabric over and press down

Repeat with subsequent strips of fabric until yourbird shape is covered

Press then turn over and machine stitch allaround the edge of your bird just inside the felttip lines you drew Cut bird shape out along lines

Position on tote bag panel (see instructions onpage 2) and secure with temporary fabric sprayadhesive

Drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine andfit darning foot With black thread in your needleand cream in your bobbin stitch around the edgeof the heart twice to secure it firmly to your bagYou want a sort of scribbled effect - not too neat

If you prefer not to use freehand machinestitching then you can simply topstitch it to thebag panel

Now complete your tote following theinstructions on page 2

17

18

19

Really Easy Fabric-coveredLampshades

After we installed our new wood-burning stoveat Coombe Leigh before Christmas (very toastytoes) we needed to decorate the room as thealterations needed had left it looking definitelythe worse for wear

Our existing table lamp was fine but the shadewas looking a bit tired suffering from years ofservice and enhanced by a nice mud splatterfrom the time Ben dashed in from his walk andshook himself vigorously before I had time tocatch him Rather than go to the expense ofpurchasing a brand-new shade I decided to usethis easy technique to give the old shade a wholenew look - and was so pleased with the results Ithought Irsquod share how I did it

This is a really easy and quick technique - a greatway to use a special piece of fabric - and youdonrsquot need to sew a single stitch

The fabric you choose shouldnrsquot be too heavy ifyou want plenty of light to filter through - I useda quilting weight cotton - and for the best effecttry to relate the scale of the pattern on your fabricto the size of the lampshade yoursquore covering

You will need

Smooth paper of fabric lampshade

Newspaper to make template

Sufficient fabric to cover shade (about frac12yard for an average sized shade but you willbe able to see exactly when yoursquove drawnyour template)

Fabric or PVA glue

Pencil

Scissors

To make your shade

First make your template Place the shadeseam down on your piece of newspaper andmark the top and base seam position on thepaper Starting from the seam and tracingaround the base with your pencil gently rollthe shade until you reach the seam again

20

Roll your shade back along this traced linethis time marking the paper along the topedge Cut out your paper pattern

Before you continue double-check that it fitsproperly Wrap your paper template aroundthe shade and check all is well Make anyadjustments to the template that are needed

Place your template on your fabric and drawaround it adding a 1rdquo seam allowance to thecurved edges and frac14 to the straight ends

Turn under and press a frac14rdquo turning on onestraight edge of your fabric

Apply a thin line of glue along the seam ofthe lampshade Position the raw edge of yourfabric on the glued line centering the edgeon the seam so that the fabric overlaps theshade edges by frac12rdquo at the top and bottom

Apply a thin line of glue along the top andbase edges of the shade

Working from the glued end smooth thefabric around the shade making sure it isfirmly stuck down on the rims Stop 1rdquo fromthe glued end

Squeeze a thin line of glue on top of the rawedge of fabric where you began and thensmooth down the turned edge to cover theraw edge and allow the whole shade to dry

You may or may not need to clip the excessfabric before you glue it to the reverse of theshade Try folding it down with your fingersfirst to see if it sits comfortably or whetherthe edge does need to be clipped

Clip if necessary

Apply a little glue to the reverse of the excessfabric at the top and bottom edges of theshade

Fold the fabric to the inside of the shade andpress down firmly

FINISHED

21

Nobody needsreminding that

February 14th isSt Valentinersquos

day hellip

Yes February 14th is a special day for loverswhen romance is most definitely in the air -and hopefully in the post()hellip but who was StValentine and how did it all begin

Nearly 2000 years ago in ancient RomeFebruary 14th was the day dedicated to thegoddess Juno the deity of women andmarriage Valentine was an early Christianbishop who would marry young couples insecret defying the Emperor Claudius who hadforbidden such ceremonies EventuallyValentine was caught conducting a secretmarriage ceremony and condemned to be putto death

Whilst he was in prison awaiting hisexecution many young couples were able totoss small gifts of flowers food and othertokens of their appreciation through his cellwindow Eventually Valentinersquos executiondate arrived - the fourteenth of February AD

270 and as he waited to be taken out to diethe Bishop sent a final message to the youngwoman he loved - signing it simply ldquofromyour Valentinerdquo

In he year 496 AD Pope Gelasius choseBishop Valentine as the patron saint of loverswho would be honoured on the fourteenth ofevery February Over the years ValentinesDay has evolved into a holiday when giftscards flowers and chocolates are given tothose we love or would like to start arelationship with And it is all because of along ago Roman Bishop named Valentine

Over the centuries many Valentine legendshave evolved and the theme of this monthrsquosmagazine was inspired by the old Englishtradition - that February 14th is the day thatbirds fall in love and choose their mates hellip

22

Owls in Love Cushion CoverNine cute little owls - and two who simply canrsquot take their eyes off each other

Sized to fit 16rdquo square cushion pad

23

To make a 16rdquo cover you will need

Blanket pieces or other woollen fabric Onepiece 16rdquo square and two pieces 16rdquo x 12rdquo

3 x 9rdquo square felt for owl bodies ndash colourstoffee oak and caramel

2 x 6rdquo square felt for owl spectacles ndash coloursmushroom and skintone

6rdquo square felt for owl eyes ndash colour buttermilk

Small scrap of red felt for heart

Scraps of fabric for owl breasts

18 small buttons (9 matching pairs) for centresof eyes ndash or if you are making for a childrsquosroom then substitute buttons with small circlesof felt

Gold embroidery floss for beaks and feet

Dark brown dark red and very pale greenembroidery floss

Spray fabric adhesive or Bondaweb

Pinking shears

Make your applique panel

Make your owls up before attaching them to the frontof your cushion pad

Cut out 7 ordinary owls and 2 owls with wingoutstretched from felt reversing your templateso the wings are on opposite sides of the owls

Cut out spectacles and eyes from felt and breastsfrom your fabric

scraps Cut along the base edge of the breastpiece with pinking shears if you have them asthis will give a nice feather effect on yourfinished owls

Take the square piece of your woollen fabric andfold it into three equal parts both vertically andhorizontally Press lightly then open out Yourfabric will now be divided into 9 equal-sizedsquares by the creases you have created

Place one owl in each square using the photo atthe top of the pattern Do not attach them to thebase fabric You are positioning them at thisstage to help you choose how to position theirbreasts spectacles and eyes

Position breasts spectacles eyes and buttons onowls playing around with them until you arehappy with their arrangement If you are usingdifferent designs of fabric for the breasts thentake your time at this stage to make sure yoursquovechosen the best combination of fabrics

When you are happy with your arrangementtake each owl in turn and attach first the breastand then the spectacles using spray fabricadhesive The spectacles should cover the rawedge at the top of the breast

Straight machine stitch along the base of the owljust inside the pinked edge then machine zig-zagover the raw edges of the sides of the breasts andstraight around the spectacles and zig-zag downthe second side of the breast You donrsquot need tofully stitch around the bottom of the spectaclesas these will be attached when you add the beak

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

15

Draw around the edge of the template onto thefabric with your sharpie or felt tip pen

Make sure the ink has bled through so that yourlines can be seen from the other side of the fabric- this is very important

Decide which scrap will be your first piece andcut it so it has 5 straight edges It doesnrsquot have tobe any particular shape just one that is pleasingto your eye as this will be the foundation piecefor your crazy patchwork

Spray a little adhesive onto the reverse of thisscrap and position it on your heart right side upPat down to hold it securely in place It doesnrsquothave to be exactly in the centre but you will needto have space all around it

Take another scrap and lay it right side downdown on top of the first piece lining up one of thestraight edges

Pin the second scrap in place in place and sew a14 seam down the lined up edge through boththe foundation piece

Press the seam open so the piece lies flat on yourbase fabric You can spray a little adhesive onthe reverse if you wish to secure it in place as youwork on different parts of your heart

Move to another side of your foundation pieceand repeat you may find yourself covering upsome of the other piece of fabric - thatrsquosabsolutely fine

Continue working around that first piece layeringand sewing Use different shapes and size scrapsas you go to create an interesting patternContinue this way until your whole heart shapeis covered

Press then flip your work over and machine stitchall around heart just inside the line you drew withyour felt tip pen This will keep all the patchesin place when you cut your heart out

Cut your heart out - I used pinking shears for anice decorative effect - but this is optional

If liked use some of the decorative stitches onyour machine to mimic the hand embellishmentused on many crazy patchwork designs Youcould choose different coloured threads tocontrast with your fabric choices but I just usedcream

Position on tote bag panel (see instructions onpage 2) and secure with temporary fabric sprayadhesive

Drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine andfit darning foot With black thread in your needleand cream in your bobbin stitch around the edgeof the heart twice to secure it firmly to your bagYou want a sort of scribbled effect - not too neat

If you prefer not to use freehand machinestitching then you can simply topstitch it to thebag panel

Now complete your tote following theinstructions on page 2

16

Bird in Flight Shape

You will need

12rdquo square piece of lightweight white or palecoloured cotton or poly-cotton fabric Strips of scrap fabric of varying widths Sharpie or other thick felt tip pen Temporary fabric spray adhesive Darningembroidery foot for your sewing

machine (optional) Cream and black thread for needle cream or

other light-coloured thread for bobbin

To make your bird

Cut out the bird shape template (given actual sizethough you can enlarge or reduce if preferred)

Iron your white fabric and place it on a cleanflat surface

Draw around the edge of the template onto thefabric with your sharpie or felt tip pen

Make sure the ink has bled through so that yourlines can be seen from the other side of thefabric - this is very important

Lay your first strip of fabric right side up acrossthe top wing and tail of the bird as shown in the

photograph securing with a little sprayadhesive

Take your next strip of fabric and place right sidedown aligning the two long sides Machine intoplace with a frac14rdquo seam

Flip the second strip of fabric over and press down

Repeat with subsequent strips of fabric until yourbird shape is covered

Press then turn over and machine stitch allaround the edge of your bird just inside the felttip lines you drew Cut bird shape out along lines

Position on tote bag panel (see instructions onpage 2) and secure with temporary fabric sprayadhesive

Drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine andfit darning foot With black thread in your needleand cream in your bobbin stitch around the edgeof the heart twice to secure it firmly to your bagYou want a sort of scribbled effect - not too neat

If you prefer not to use freehand machinestitching then you can simply topstitch it to thebag panel

Now complete your tote following theinstructions on page 2

17

18

19

Really Easy Fabric-coveredLampshades

After we installed our new wood-burning stoveat Coombe Leigh before Christmas (very toastytoes) we needed to decorate the room as thealterations needed had left it looking definitelythe worse for wear

Our existing table lamp was fine but the shadewas looking a bit tired suffering from years ofservice and enhanced by a nice mud splatterfrom the time Ben dashed in from his walk andshook himself vigorously before I had time tocatch him Rather than go to the expense ofpurchasing a brand-new shade I decided to usethis easy technique to give the old shade a wholenew look - and was so pleased with the results Ithought Irsquod share how I did it

This is a really easy and quick technique - a greatway to use a special piece of fabric - and youdonrsquot need to sew a single stitch

The fabric you choose shouldnrsquot be too heavy ifyou want plenty of light to filter through - I useda quilting weight cotton - and for the best effecttry to relate the scale of the pattern on your fabricto the size of the lampshade yoursquore covering

You will need

Smooth paper of fabric lampshade

Newspaper to make template

Sufficient fabric to cover shade (about frac12yard for an average sized shade but you willbe able to see exactly when yoursquove drawnyour template)

Fabric or PVA glue

Pencil

Scissors

To make your shade

First make your template Place the shadeseam down on your piece of newspaper andmark the top and base seam position on thepaper Starting from the seam and tracingaround the base with your pencil gently rollthe shade until you reach the seam again

20

Roll your shade back along this traced linethis time marking the paper along the topedge Cut out your paper pattern

Before you continue double-check that it fitsproperly Wrap your paper template aroundthe shade and check all is well Make anyadjustments to the template that are needed

Place your template on your fabric and drawaround it adding a 1rdquo seam allowance to thecurved edges and frac14 to the straight ends

Turn under and press a frac14rdquo turning on onestraight edge of your fabric

Apply a thin line of glue along the seam ofthe lampshade Position the raw edge of yourfabric on the glued line centering the edgeon the seam so that the fabric overlaps theshade edges by frac12rdquo at the top and bottom

Apply a thin line of glue along the top andbase edges of the shade

Working from the glued end smooth thefabric around the shade making sure it isfirmly stuck down on the rims Stop 1rdquo fromthe glued end

Squeeze a thin line of glue on top of the rawedge of fabric where you began and thensmooth down the turned edge to cover theraw edge and allow the whole shade to dry

You may or may not need to clip the excessfabric before you glue it to the reverse of theshade Try folding it down with your fingersfirst to see if it sits comfortably or whetherthe edge does need to be clipped

Clip if necessary

Apply a little glue to the reverse of the excessfabric at the top and bottom edges of theshade

Fold the fabric to the inside of the shade andpress down firmly

FINISHED

21

Nobody needsreminding that

February 14th isSt Valentinersquos

day hellip

Yes February 14th is a special day for loverswhen romance is most definitely in the air -and hopefully in the post()hellip but who was StValentine and how did it all begin

Nearly 2000 years ago in ancient RomeFebruary 14th was the day dedicated to thegoddess Juno the deity of women andmarriage Valentine was an early Christianbishop who would marry young couples insecret defying the Emperor Claudius who hadforbidden such ceremonies EventuallyValentine was caught conducting a secretmarriage ceremony and condemned to be putto death

Whilst he was in prison awaiting hisexecution many young couples were able totoss small gifts of flowers food and othertokens of their appreciation through his cellwindow Eventually Valentinersquos executiondate arrived - the fourteenth of February AD

270 and as he waited to be taken out to diethe Bishop sent a final message to the youngwoman he loved - signing it simply ldquofromyour Valentinerdquo

In he year 496 AD Pope Gelasius choseBishop Valentine as the patron saint of loverswho would be honoured on the fourteenth ofevery February Over the years ValentinesDay has evolved into a holiday when giftscards flowers and chocolates are given tothose we love or would like to start arelationship with And it is all because of along ago Roman Bishop named Valentine

Over the centuries many Valentine legendshave evolved and the theme of this monthrsquosmagazine was inspired by the old Englishtradition - that February 14th is the day thatbirds fall in love and choose their mates hellip

22

Owls in Love Cushion CoverNine cute little owls - and two who simply canrsquot take their eyes off each other

Sized to fit 16rdquo square cushion pad

23

To make a 16rdquo cover you will need

Blanket pieces or other woollen fabric Onepiece 16rdquo square and two pieces 16rdquo x 12rdquo

3 x 9rdquo square felt for owl bodies ndash colourstoffee oak and caramel

2 x 6rdquo square felt for owl spectacles ndash coloursmushroom and skintone

6rdquo square felt for owl eyes ndash colour buttermilk

Small scrap of red felt for heart

Scraps of fabric for owl breasts

18 small buttons (9 matching pairs) for centresof eyes ndash or if you are making for a childrsquosroom then substitute buttons with small circlesof felt

Gold embroidery floss for beaks and feet

Dark brown dark red and very pale greenembroidery floss

Spray fabric adhesive or Bondaweb

Pinking shears

Make your applique panel

Make your owls up before attaching them to the frontof your cushion pad

Cut out 7 ordinary owls and 2 owls with wingoutstretched from felt reversing your templateso the wings are on opposite sides of the owls

Cut out spectacles and eyes from felt and breastsfrom your fabric

scraps Cut along the base edge of the breastpiece with pinking shears if you have them asthis will give a nice feather effect on yourfinished owls

Take the square piece of your woollen fabric andfold it into three equal parts both vertically andhorizontally Press lightly then open out Yourfabric will now be divided into 9 equal-sizedsquares by the creases you have created

Place one owl in each square using the photo atthe top of the pattern Do not attach them to thebase fabric You are positioning them at thisstage to help you choose how to position theirbreasts spectacles and eyes

Position breasts spectacles eyes and buttons onowls playing around with them until you arehappy with their arrangement If you are usingdifferent designs of fabric for the breasts thentake your time at this stage to make sure yoursquovechosen the best combination of fabrics

When you are happy with your arrangementtake each owl in turn and attach first the breastand then the spectacles using spray fabricadhesive The spectacles should cover the rawedge at the top of the breast

Straight machine stitch along the base of the owljust inside the pinked edge then machine zig-zagover the raw edges of the sides of the breasts andstraight around the spectacles and zig-zag downthe second side of the breast You donrsquot need tofully stitch around the bottom of the spectaclesas these will be attached when you add the beak

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

16

Bird in Flight Shape

You will need

12rdquo square piece of lightweight white or palecoloured cotton or poly-cotton fabric Strips of scrap fabric of varying widths Sharpie or other thick felt tip pen Temporary fabric spray adhesive Darningembroidery foot for your sewing

machine (optional) Cream and black thread for needle cream or

other light-coloured thread for bobbin

To make your bird

Cut out the bird shape template (given actual sizethough you can enlarge or reduce if preferred)

Iron your white fabric and place it on a cleanflat surface

Draw around the edge of the template onto thefabric with your sharpie or felt tip pen

Make sure the ink has bled through so that yourlines can be seen from the other side of thefabric - this is very important

Lay your first strip of fabric right side up acrossthe top wing and tail of the bird as shown in the

photograph securing with a little sprayadhesive

Take your next strip of fabric and place right sidedown aligning the two long sides Machine intoplace with a frac14rdquo seam

Flip the second strip of fabric over and press down

Repeat with subsequent strips of fabric until yourbird shape is covered

Press then turn over and machine stitch allaround the edge of your bird just inside the felttip lines you drew Cut bird shape out along lines

Position on tote bag panel (see instructions onpage 2) and secure with temporary fabric sprayadhesive

Drop the feed dogs on your sewing machine andfit darning foot With black thread in your needleand cream in your bobbin stitch around the edgeof the heart twice to secure it firmly to your bagYou want a sort of scribbled effect - not too neat

If you prefer not to use freehand machinestitching then you can simply topstitch it to thebag panel

Now complete your tote following theinstructions on page 2

17

18

19

Really Easy Fabric-coveredLampshades

After we installed our new wood-burning stoveat Coombe Leigh before Christmas (very toastytoes) we needed to decorate the room as thealterations needed had left it looking definitelythe worse for wear

Our existing table lamp was fine but the shadewas looking a bit tired suffering from years ofservice and enhanced by a nice mud splatterfrom the time Ben dashed in from his walk andshook himself vigorously before I had time tocatch him Rather than go to the expense ofpurchasing a brand-new shade I decided to usethis easy technique to give the old shade a wholenew look - and was so pleased with the results Ithought Irsquod share how I did it

This is a really easy and quick technique - a greatway to use a special piece of fabric - and youdonrsquot need to sew a single stitch

The fabric you choose shouldnrsquot be too heavy ifyou want plenty of light to filter through - I useda quilting weight cotton - and for the best effecttry to relate the scale of the pattern on your fabricto the size of the lampshade yoursquore covering

You will need

Smooth paper of fabric lampshade

Newspaper to make template

Sufficient fabric to cover shade (about frac12yard for an average sized shade but you willbe able to see exactly when yoursquove drawnyour template)

Fabric or PVA glue

Pencil

Scissors

To make your shade

First make your template Place the shadeseam down on your piece of newspaper andmark the top and base seam position on thepaper Starting from the seam and tracingaround the base with your pencil gently rollthe shade until you reach the seam again

20

Roll your shade back along this traced linethis time marking the paper along the topedge Cut out your paper pattern

Before you continue double-check that it fitsproperly Wrap your paper template aroundthe shade and check all is well Make anyadjustments to the template that are needed

Place your template on your fabric and drawaround it adding a 1rdquo seam allowance to thecurved edges and frac14 to the straight ends

Turn under and press a frac14rdquo turning on onestraight edge of your fabric

Apply a thin line of glue along the seam ofthe lampshade Position the raw edge of yourfabric on the glued line centering the edgeon the seam so that the fabric overlaps theshade edges by frac12rdquo at the top and bottom

Apply a thin line of glue along the top andbase edges of the shade

Working from the glued end smooth thefabric around the shade making sure it isfirmly stuck down on the rims Stop 1rdquo fromthe glued end

Squeeze a thin line of glue on top of the rawedge of fabric where you began and thensmooth down the turned edge to cover theraw edge and allow the whole shade to dry

You may or may not need to clip the excessfabric before you glue it to the reverse of theshade Try folding it down with your fingersfirst to see if it sits comfortably or whetherthe edge does need to be clipped

Clip if necessary

Apply a little glue to the reverse of the excessfabric at the top and bottom edges of theshade

Fold the fabric to the inside of the shade andpress down firmly

FINISHED

21

Nobody needsreminding that

February 14th isSt Valentinersquos

day hellip

Yes February 14th is a special day for loverswhen romance is most definitely in the air -and hopefully in the post()hellip but who was StValentine and how did it all begin

Nearly 2000 years ago in ancient RomeFebruary 14th was the day dedicated to thegoddess Juno the deity of women andmarriage Valentine was an early Christianbishop who would marry young couples insecret defying the Emperor Claudius who hadforbidden such ceremonies EventuallyValentine was caught conducting a secretmarriage ceremony and condemned to be putto death

Whilst he was in prison awaiting hisexecution many young couples were able totoss small gifts of flowers food and othertokens of their appreciation through his cellwindow Eventually Valentinersquos executiondate arrived - the fourteenth of February AD

270 and as he waited to be taken out to diethe Bishop sent a final message to the youngwoman he loved - signing it simply ldquofromyour Valentinerdquo

In he year 496 AD Pope Gelasius choseBishop Valentine as the patron saint of loverswho would be honoured on the fourteenth ofevery February Over the years ValentinesDay has evolved into a holiday when giftscards flowers and chocolates are given tothose we love or would like to start arelationship with And it is all because of along ago Roman Bishop named Valentine

Over the centuries many Valentine legendshave evolved and the theme of this monthrsquosmagazine was inspired by the old Englishtradition - that February 14th is the day thatbirds fall in love and choose their mates hellip

22

Owls in Love Cushion CoverNine cute little owls - and two who simply canrsquot take their eyes off each other

Sized to fit 16rdquo square cushion pad

23

To make a 16rdquo cover you will need

Blanket pieces or other woollen fabric Onepiece 16rdquo square and two pieces 16rdquo x 12rdquo

3 x 9rdquo square felt for owl bodies ndash colourstoffee oak and caramel

2 x 6rdquo square felt for owl spectacles ndash coloursmushroom and skintone

6rdquo square felt for owl eyes ndash colour buttermilk

Small scrap of red felt for heart

Scraps of fabric for owl breasts

18 small buttons (9 matching pairs) for centresof eyes ndash or if you are making for a childrsquosroom then substitute buttons with small circlesof felt

Gold embroidery floss for beaks and feet

Dark brown dark red and very pale greenembroidery floss

Spray fabric adhesive or Bondaweb

Pinking shears

Make your applique panel

Make your owls up before attaching them to the frontof your cushion pad

Cut out 7 ordinary owls and 2 owls with wingoutstretched from felt reversing your templateso the wings are on opposite sides of the owls

Cut out spectacles and eyes from felt and breastsfrom your fabric

scraps Cut along the base edge of the breastpiece with pinking shears if you have them asthis will give a nice feather effect on yourfinished owls

Take the square piece of your woollen fabric andfold it into three equal parts both vertically andhorizontally Press lightly then open out Yourfabric will now be divided into 9 equal-sizedsquares by the creases you have created

Place one owl in each square using the photo atthe top of the pattern Do not attach them to thebase fabric You are positioning them at thisstage to help you choose how to position theirbreasts spectacles and eyes

Position breasts spectacles eyes and buttons onowls playing around with them until you arehappy with their arrangement If you are usingdifferent designs of fabric for the breasts thentake your time at this stage to make sure yoursquovechosen the best combination of fabrics

When you are happy with your arrangementtake each owl in turn and attach first the breastand then the spectacles using spray fabricadhesive The spectacles should cover the rawedge at the top of the breast

Straight machine stitch along the base of the owljust inside the pinked edge then machine zig-zagover the raw edges of the sides of the breasts andstraight around the spectacles and zig-zag downthe second side of the breast You donrsquot need tofully stitch around the bottom of the spectaclesas these will be attached when you add the beak

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

17

18

19

Really Easy Fabric-coveredLampshades

After we installed our new wood-burning stoveat Coombe Leigh before Christmas (very toastytoes) we needed to decorate the room as thealterations needed had left it looking definitelythe worse for wear

Our existing table lamp was fine but the shadewas looking a bit tired suffering from years ofservice and enhanced by a nice mud splatterfrom the time Ben dashed in from his walk andshook himself vigorously before I had time tocatch him Rather than go to the expense ofpurchasing a brand-new shade I decided to usethis easy technique to give the old shade a wholenew look - and was so pleased with the results Ithought Irsquod share how I did it

This is a really easy and quick technique - a greatway to use a special piece of fabric - and youdonrsquot need to sew a single stitch

The fabric you choose shouldnrsquot be too heavy ifyou want plenty of light to filter through - I useda quilting weight cotton - and for the best effecttry to relate the scale of the pattern on your fabricto the size of the lampshade yoursquore covering

You will need

Smooth paper of fabric lampshade

Newspaper to make template

Sufficient fabric to cover shade (about frac12yard for an average sized shade but you willbe able to see exactly when yoursquove drawnyour template)

Fabric or PVA glue

Pencil

Scissors

To make your shade

First make your template Place the shadeseam down on your piece of newspaper andmark the top and base seam position on thepaper Starting from the seam and tracingaround the base with your pencil gently rollthe shade until you reach the seam again

20

Roll your shade back along this traced linethis time marking the paper along the topedge Cut out your paper pattern

Before you continue double-check that it fitsproperly Wrap your paper template aroundthe shade and check all is well Make anyadjustments to the template that are needed

Place your template on your fabric and drawaround it adding a 1rdquo seam allowance to thecurved edges and frac14 to the straight ends

Turn under and press a frac14rdquo turning on onestraight edge of your fabric

Apply a thin line of glue along the seam ofthe lampshade Position the raw edge of yourfabric on the glued line centering the edgeon the seam so that the fabric overlaps theshade edges by frac12rdquo at the top and bottom

Apply a thin line of glue along the top andbase edges of the shade

Working from the glued end smooth thefabric around the shade making sure it isfirmly stuck down on the rims Stop 1rdquo fromthe glued end

Squeeze a thin line of glue on top of the rawedge of fabric where you began and thensmooth down the turned edge to cover theraw edge and allow the whole shade to dry

You may or may not need to clip the excessfabric before you glue it to the reverse of theshade Try folding it down with your fingersfirst to see if it sits comfortably or whetherthe edge does need to be clipped

Clip if necessary

Apply a little glue to the reverse of the excessfabric at the top and bottom edges of theshade

Fold the fabric to the inside of the shade andpress down firmly

FINISHED

21

Nobody needsreminding that

February 14th isSt Valentinersquos

day hellip

Yes February 14th is a special day for loverswhen romance is most definitely in the air -and hopefully in the post()hellip but who was StValentine and how did it all begin

Nearly 2000 years ago in ancient RomeFebruary 14th was the day dedicated to thegoddess Juno the deity of women andmarriage Valentine was an early Christianbishop who would marry young couples insecret defying the Emperor Claudius who hadforbidden such ceremonies EventuallyValentine was caught conducting a secretmarriage ceremony and condemned to be putto death

Whilst he was in prison awaiting hisexecution many young couples were able totoss small gifts of flowers food and othertokens of their appreciation through his cellwindow Eventually Valentinersquos executiondate arrived - the fourteenth of February AD

270 and as he waited to be taken out to diethe Bishop sent a final message to the youngwoman he loved - signing it simply ldquofromyour Valentinerdquo

In he year 496 AD Pope Gelasius choseBishop Valentine as the patron saint of loverswho would be honoured on the fourteenth ofevery February Over the years ValentinesDay has evolved into a holiday when giftscards flowers and chocolates are given tothose we love or would like to start arelationship with And it is all because of along ago Roman Bishop named Valentine

Over the centuries many Valentine legendshave evolved and the theme of this monthrsquosmagazine was inspired by the old Englishtradition - that February 14th is the day thatbirds fall in love and choose their mates hellip

22

Owls in Love Cushion CoverNine cute little owls - and two who simply canrsquot take their eyes off each other

Sized to fit 16rdquo square cushion pad

23

To make a 16rdquo cover you will need

Blanket pieces or other woollen fabric Onepiece 16rdquo square and two pieces 16rdquo x 12rdquo

3 x 9rdquo square felt for owl bodies ndash colourstoffee oak and caramel

2 x 6rdquo square felt for owl spectacles ndash coloursmushroom and skintone

6rdquo square felt for owl eyes ndash colour buttermilk

Small scrap of red felt for heart

Scraps of fabric for owl breasts

18 small buttons (9 matching pairs) for centresof eyes ndash or if you are making for a childrsquosroom then substitute buttons with small circlesof felt

Gold embroidery floss for beaks and feet

Dark brown dark red and very pale greenembroidery floss

Spray fabric adhesive or Bondaweb

Pinking shears

Make your applique panel

Make your owls up before attaching them to the frontof your cushion pad

Cut out 7 ordinary owls and 2 owls with wingoutstretched from felt reversing your templateso the wings are on opposite sides of the owls

Cut out spectacles and eyes from felt and breastsfrom your fabric

scraps Cut along the base edge of the breastpiece with pinking shears if you have them asthis will give a nice feather effect on yourfinished owls

Take the square piece of your woollen fabric andfold it into three equal parts both vertically andhorizontally Press lightly then open out Yourfabric will now be divided into 9 equal-sizedsquares by the creases you have created

Place one owl in each square using the photo atthe top of the pattern Do not attach them to thebase fabric You are positioning them at thisstage to help you choose how to position theirbreasts spectacles and eyes

Position breasts spectacles eyes and buttons onowls playing around with them until you arehappy with their arrangement If you are usingdifferent designs of fabric for the breasts thentake your time at this stage to make sure yoursquovechosen the best combination of fabrics

When you are happy with your arrangementtake each owl in turn and attach first the breastand then the spectacles using spray fabricadhesive The spectacles should cover the rawedge at the top of the breast

Straight machine stitch along the base of the owljust inside the pinked edge then machine zig-zagover the raw edges of the sides of the breasts andstraight around the spectacles and zig-zag downthe second side of the breast You donrsquot need tofully stitch around the bottom of the spectaclesas these will be attached when you add the beak

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

18

19

Really Easy Fabric-coveredLampshades

After we installed our new wood-burning stoveat Coombe Leigh before Christmas (very toastytoes) we needed to decorate the room as thealterations needed had left it looking definitelythe worse for wear

Our existing table lamp was fine but the shadewas looking a bit tired suffering from years ofservice and enhanced by a nice mud splatterfrom the time Ben dashed in from his walk andshook himself vigorously before I had time tocatch him Rather than go to the expense ofpurchasing a brand-new shade I decided to usethis easy technique to give the old shade a wholenew look - and was so pleased with the results Ithought Irsquod share how I did it

This is a really easy and quick technique - a greatway to use a special piece of fabric - and youdonrsquot need to sew a single stitch

The fabric you choose shouldnrsquot be too heavy ifyou want plenty of light to filter through - I useda quilting weight cotton - and for the best effecttry to relate the scale of the pattern on your fabricto the size of the lampshade yoursquore covering

You will need

Smooth paper of fabric lampshade

Newspaper to make template

Sufficient fabric to cover shade (about frac12yard for an average sized shade but you willbe able to see exactly when yoursquove drawnyour template)

Fabric or PVA glue

Pencil

Scissors

To make your shade

First make your template Place the shadeseam down on your piece of newspaper andmark the top and base seam position on thepaper Starting from the seam and tracingaround the base with your pencil gently rollthe shade until you reach the seam again

20

Roll your shade back along this traced linethis time marking the paper along the topedge Cut out your paper pattern

Before you continue double-check that it fitsproperly Wrap your paper template aroundthe shade and check all is well Make anyadjustments to the template that are needed

Place your template on your fabric and drawaround it adding a 1rdquo seam allowance to thecurved edges and frac14 to the straight ends

Turn under and press a frac14rdquo turning on onestraight edge of your fabric

Apply a thin line of glue along the seam ofthe lampshade Position the raw edge of yourfabric on the glued line centering the edgeon the seam so that the fabric overlaps theshade edges by frac12rdquo at the top and bottom

Apply a thin line of glue along the top andbase edges of the shade

Working from the glued end smooth thefabric around the shade making sure it isfirmly stuck down on the rims Stop 1rdquo fromthe glued end

Squeeze a thin line of glue on top of the rawedge of fabric where you began and thensmooth down the turned edge to cover theraw edge and allow the whole shade to dry

You may or may not need to clip the excessfabric before you glue it to the reverse of theshade Try folding it down with your fingersfirst to see if it sits comfortably or whetherthe edge does need to be clipped

Clip if necessary

Apply a little glue to the reverse of the excessfabric at the top and bottom edges of theshade

Fold the fabric to the inside of the shade andpress down firmly

FINISHED

21

Nobody needsreminding that

February 14th isSt Valentinersquos

day hellip

Yes February 14th is a special day for loverswhen romance is most definitely in the air -and hopefully in the post()hellip but who was StValentine and how did it all begin

Nearly 2000 years ago in ancient RomeFebruary 14th was the day dedicated to thegoddess Juno the deity of women andmarriage Valentine was an early Christianbishop who would marry young couples insecret defying the Emperor Claudius who hadforbidden such ceremonies EventuallyValentine was caught conducting a secretmarriage ceremony and condemned to be putto death

Whilst he was in prison awaiting hisexecution many young couples were able totoss small gifts of flowers food and othertokens of their appreciation through his cellwindow Eventually Valentinersquos executiondate arrived - the fourteenth of February AD

270 and as he waited to be taken out to diethe Bishop sent a final message to the youngwoman he loved - signing it simply ldquofromyour Valentinerdquo

In he year 496 AD Pope Gelasius choseBishop Valentine as the patron saint of loverswho would be honoured on the fourteenth ofevery February Over the years ValentinesDay has evolved into a holiday when giftscards flowers and chocolates are given tothose we love or would like to start arelationship with And it is all because of along ago Roman Bishop named Valentine

Over the centuries many Valentine legendshave evolved and the theme of this monthrsquosmagazine was inspired by the old Englishtradition - that February 14th is the day thatbirds fall in love and choose their mates hellip

22

Owls in Love Cushion CoverNine cute little owls - and two who simply canrsquot take their eyes off each other

Sized to fit 16rdquo square cushion pad

23

To make a 16rdquo cover you will need

Blanket pieces or other woollen fabric Onepiece 16rdquo square and two pieces 16rdquo x 12rdquo

3 x 9rdquo square felt for owl bodies ndash colourstoffee oak and caramel

2 x 6rdquo square felt for owl spectacles ndash coloursmushroom and skintone

6rdquo square felt for owl eyes ndash colour buttermilk

Small scrap of red felt for heart

Scraps of fabric for owl breasts

18 small buttons (9 matching pairs) for centresof eyes ndash or if you are making for a childrsquosroom then substitute buttons with small circlesof felt

Gold embroidery floss for beaks and feet

Dark brown dark red and very pale greenembroidery floss

Spray fabric adhesive or Bondaweb

Pinking shears

Make your applique panel

Make your owls up before attaching them to the frontof your cushion pad

Cut out 7 ordinary owls and 2 owls with wingoutstretched from felt reversing your templateso the wings are on opposite sides of the owls

Cut out spectacles and eyes from felt and breastsfrom your fabric

scraps Cut along the base edge of the breastpiece with pinking shears if you have them asthis will give a nice feather effect on yourfinished owls

Take the square piece of your woollen fabric andfold it into three equal parts both vertically andhorizontally Press lightly then open out Yourfabric will now be divided into 9 equal-sizedsquares by the creases you have created

Place one owl in each square using the photo atthe top of the pattern Do not attach them to thebase fabric You are positioning them at thisstage to help you choose how to position theirbreasts spectacles and eyes

Position breasts spectacles eyes and buttons onowls playing around with them until you arehappy with their arrangement If you are usingdifferent designs of fabric for the breasts thentake your time at this stage to make sure yoursquovechosen the best combination of fabrics

When you are happy with your arrangementtake each owl in turn and attach first the breastand then the spectacles using spray fabricadhesive The spectacles should cover the rawedge at the top of the breast

Straight machine stitch along the base of the owljust inside the pinked edge then machine zig-zagover the raw edges of the sides of the breasts andstraight around the spectacles and zig-zag downthe second side of the breast You donrsquot need tofully stitch around the bottom of the spectaclesas these will be attached when you add the beak

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

19

Really Easy Fabric-coveredLampshades

After we installed our new wood-burning stoveat Coombe Leigh before Christmas (very toastytoes) we needed to decorate the room as thealterations needed had left it looking definitelythe worse for wear

Our existing table lamp was fine but the shadewas looking a bit tired suffering from years ofservice and enhanced by a nice mud splatterfrom the time Ben dashed in from his walk andshook himself vigorously before I had time tocatch him Rather than go to the expense ofpurchasing a brand-new shade I decided to usethis easy technique to give the old shade a wholenew look - and was so pleased with the results Ithought Irsquod share how I did it

This is a really easy and quick technique - a greatway to use a special piece of fabric - and youdonrsquot need to sew a single stitch

The fabric you choose shouldnrsquot be too heavy ifyou want plenty of light to filter through - I useda quilting weight cotton - and for the best effecttry to relate the scale of the pattern on your fabricto the size of the lampshade yoursquore covering

You will need

Smooth paper of fabric lampshade

Newspaper to make template

Sufficient fabric to cover shade (about frac12yard for an average sized shade but you willbe able to see exactly when yoursquove drawnyour template)

Fabric or PVA glue

Pencil

Scissors

To make your shade

First make your template Place the shadeseam down on your piece of newspaper andmark the top and base seam position on thepaper Starting from the seam and tracingaround the base with your pencil gently rollthe shade until you reach the seam again

20

Roll your shade back along this traced linethis time marking the paper along the topedge Cut out your paper pattern

Before you continue double-check that it fitsproperly Wrap your paper template aroundthe shade and check all is well Make anyadjustments to the template that are needed

Place your template on your fabric and drawaround it adding a 1rdquo seam allowance to thecurved edges and frac14 to the straight ends

Turn under and press a frac14rdquo turning on onestraight edge of your fabric

Apply a thin line of glue along the seam ofthe lampshade Position the raw edge of yourfabric on the glued line centering the edgeon the seam so that the fabric overlaps theshade edges by frac12rdquo at the top and bottom

Apply a thin line of glue along the top andbase edges of the shade

Working from the glued end smooth thefabric around the shade making sure it isfirmly stuck down on the rims Stop 1rdquo fromthe glued end

Squeeze a thin line of glue on top of the rawedge of fabric where you began and thensmooth down the turned edge to cover theraw edge and allow the whole shade to dry

You may or may not need to clip the excessfabric before you glue it to the reverse of theshade Try folding it down with your fingersfirst to see if it sits comfortably or whetherthe edge does need to be clipped

Clip if necessary

Apply a little glue to the reverse of the excessfabric at the top and bottom edges of theshade

Fold the fabric to the inside of the shade andpress down firmly

FINISHED

21

Nobody needsreminding that

February 14th isSt Valentinersquos

day hellip

Yes February 14th is a special day for loverswhen romance is most definitely in the air -and hopefully in the post()hellip but who was StValentine and how did it all begin

Nearly 2000 years ago in ancient RomeFebruary 14th was the day dedicated to thegoddess Juno the deity of women andmarriage Valentine was an early Christianbishop who would marry young couples insecret defying the Emperor Claudius who hadforbidden such ceremonies EventuallyValentine was caught conducting a secretmarriage ceremony and condemned to be putto death

Whilst he was in prison awaiting hisexecution many young couples were able totoss small gifts of flowers food and othertokens of their appreciation through his cellwindow Eventually Valentinersquos executiondate arrived - the fourteenth of February AD

270 and as he waited to be taken out to diethe Bishop sent a final message to the youngwoman he loved - signing it simply ldquofromyour Valentinerdquo

In he year 496 AD Pope Gelasius choseBishop Valentine as the patron saint of loverswho would be honoured on the fourteenth ofevery February Over the years ValentinesDay has evolved into a holiday when giftscards flowers and chocolates are given tothose we love or would like to start arelationship with And it is all because of along ago Roman Bishop named Valentine

Over the centuries many Valentine legendshave evolved and the theme of this monthrsquosmagazine was inspired by the old Englishtradition - that February 14th is the day thatbirds fall in love and choose their mates hellip

22

Owls in Love Cushion CoverNine cute little owls - and two who simply canrsquot take their eyes off each other

Sized to fit 16rdquo square cushion pad

23

To make a 16rdquo cover you will need

Blanket pieces or other woollen fabric Onepiece 16rdquo square and two pieces 16rdquo x 12rdquo

3 x 9rdquo square felt for owl bodies ndash colourstoffee oak and caramel

2 x 6rdquo square felt for owl spectacles ndash coloursmushroom and skintone

6rdquo square felt for owl eyes ndash colour buttermilk

Small scrap of red felt for heart

Scraps of fabric for owl breasts

18 small buttons (9 matching pairs) for centresof eyes ndash or if you are making for a childrsquosroom then substitute buttons with small circlesof felt

Gold embroidery floss for beaks and feet

Dark brown dark red and very pale greenembroidery floss

Spray fabric adhesive or Bondaweb

Pinking shears

Make your applique panel

Make your owls up before attaching them to the frontof your cushion pad

Cut out 7 ordinary owls and 2 owls with wingoutstretched from felt reversing your templateso the wings are on opposite sides of the owls

Cut out spectacles and eyes from felt and breastsfrom your fabric

scraps Cut along the base edge of the breastpiece with pinking shears if you have them asthis will give a nice feather effect on yourfinished owls

Take the square piece of your woollen fabric andfold it into three equal parts both vertically andhorizontally Press lightly then open out Yourfabric will now be divided into 9 equal-sizedsquares by the creases you have created

Place one owl in each square using the photo atthe top of the pattern Do not attach them to thebase fabric You are positioning them at thisstage to help you choose how to position theirbreasts spectacles and eyes

Position breasts spectacles eyes and buttons onowls playing around with them until you arehappy with their arrangement If you are usingdifferent designs of fabric for the breasts thentake your time at this stage to make sure yoursquovechosen the best combination of fabrics

When you are happy with your arrangementtake each owl in turn and attach first the breastand then the spectacles using spray fabricadhesive The spectacles should cover the rawedge at the top of the breast

Straight machine stitch along the base of the owljust inside the pinked edge then machine zig-zagover the raw edges of the sides of the breasts andstraight around the spectacles and zig-zag downthe second side of the breast You donrsquot need tofully stitch around the bottom of the spectaclesas these will be attached when you add the beak

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

20

Roll your shade back along this traced linethis time marking the paper along the topedge Cut out your paper pattern

Before you continue double-check that it fitsproperly Wrap your paper template aroundthe shade and check all is well Make anyadjustments to the template that are needed

Place your template on your fabric and drawaround it adding a 1rdquo seam allowance to thecurved edges and frac14 to the straight ends

Turn under and press a frac14rdquo turning on onestraight edge of your fabric

Apply a thin line of glue along the seam ofthe lampshade Position the raw edge of yourfabric on the glued line centering the edgeon the seam so that the fabric overlaps theshade edges by frac12rdquo at the top and bottom

Apply a thin line of glue along the top andbase edges of the shade

Working from the glued end smooth thefabric around the shade making sure it isfirmly stuck down on the rims Stop 1rdquo fromthe glued end

Squeeze a thin line of glue on top of the rawedge of fabric where you began and thensmooth down the turned edge to cover theraw edge and allow the whole shade to dry

You may or may not need to clip the excessfabric before you glue it to the reverse of theshade Try folding it down with your fingersfirst to see if it sits comfortably or whetherthe edge does need to be clipped

Clip if necessary

Apply a little glue to the reverse of the excessfabric at the top and bottom edges of theshade

Fold the fabric to the inside of the shade andpress down firmly

FINISHED

21

Nobody needsreminding that

February 14th isSt Valentinersquos

day hellip

Yes February 14th is a special day for loverswhen romance is most definitely in the air -and hopefully in the post()hellip but who was StValentine and how did it all begin

Nearly 2000 years ago in ancient RomeFebruary 14th was the day dedicated to thegoddess Juno the deity of women andmarriage Valentine was an early Christianbishop who would marry young couples insecret defying the Emperor Claudius who hadforbidden such ceremonies EventuallyValentine was caught conducting a secretmarriage ceremony and condemned to be putto death

Whilst he was in prison awaiting hisexecution many young couples were able totoss small gifts of flowers food and othertokens of their appreciation through his cellwindow Eventually Valentinersquos executiondate arrived - the fourteenth of February AD

270 and as he waited to be taken out to diethe Bishop sent a final message to the youngwoman he loved - signing it simply ldquofromyour Valentinerdquo

In he year 496 AD Pope Gelasius choseBishop Valentine as the patron saint of loverswho would be honoured on the fourteenth ofevery February Over the years ValentinesDay has evolved into a holiday when giftscards flowers and chocolates are given tothose we love or would like to start arelationship with And it is all because of along ago Roman Bishop named Valentine

Over the centuries many Valentine legendshave evolved and the theme of this monthrsquosmagazine was inspired by the old Englishtradition - that February 14th is the day thatbirds fall in love and choose their mates hellip

22

Owls in Love Cushion CoverNine cute little owls - and two who simply canrsquot take their eyes off each other

Sized to fit 16rdquo square cushion pad

23

To make a 16rdquo cover you will need

Blanket pieces or other woollen fabric Onepiece 16rdquo square and two pieces 16rdquo x 12rdquo

3 x 9rdquo square felt for owl bodies ndash colourstoffee oak and caramel

2 x 6rdquo square felt for owl spectacles ndash coloursmushroom and skintone

6rdquo square felt for owl eyes ndash colour buttermilk

Small scrap of red felt for heart

Scraps of fabric for owl breasts

18 small buttons (9 matching pairs) for centresof eyes ndash or if you are making for a childrsquosroom then substitute buttons with small circlesof felt

Gold embroidery floss for beaks and feet

Dark brown dark red and very pale greenembroidery floss

Spray fabric adhesive or Bondaweb

Pinking shears

Make your applique panel

Make your owls up before attaching them to the frontof your cushion pad

Cut out 7 ordinary owls and 2 owls with wingoutstretched from felt reversing your templateso the wings are on opposite sides of the owls

Cut out spectacles and eyes from felt and breastsfrom your fabric

scraps Cut along the base edge of the breastpiece with pinking shears if you have them asthis will give a nice feather effect on yourfinished owls

Take the square piece of your woollen fabric andfold it into three equal parts both vertically andhorizontally Press lightly then open out Yourfabric will now be divided into 9 equal-sizedsquares by the creases you have created

Place one owl in each square using the photo atthe top of the pattern Do not attach them to thebase fabric You are positioning them at thisstage to help you choose how to position theirbreasts spectacles and eyes

Position breasts spectacles eyes and buttons onowls playing around with them until you arehappy with their arrangement If you are usingdifferent designs of fabric for the breasts thentake your time at this stage to make sure yoursquovechosen the best combination of fabrics

When you are happy with your arrangementtake each owl in turn and attach first the breastand then the spectacles using spray fabricadhesive The spectacles should cover the rawedge at the top of the breast

Straight machine stitch along the base of the owljust inside the pinked edge then machine zig-zagover the raw edges of the sides of the breasts andstraight around the spectacles and zig-zag downthe second side of the breast You donrsquot need tofully stitch around the bottom of the spectaclesas these will be attached when you add the beak

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

21

Nobody needsreminding that

February 14th isSt Valentinersquos

day hellip

Yes February 14th is a special day for loverswhen romance is most definitely in the air -and hopefully in the post()hellip but who was StValentine and how did it all begin

Nearly 2000 years ago in ancient RomeFebruary 14th was the day dedicated to thegoddess Juno the deity of women andmarriage Valentine was an early Christianbishop who would marry young couples insecret defying the Emperor Claudius who hadforbidden such ceremonies EventuallyValentine was caught conducting a secretmarriage ceremony and condemned to be putto death

Whilst he was in prison awaiting hisexecution many young couples were able totoss small gifts of flowers food and othertokens of their appreciation through his cellwindow Eventually Valentinersquos executiondate arrived - the fourteenth of February AD

270 and as he waited to be taken out to diethe Bishop sent a final message to the youngwoman he loved - signing it simply ldquofromyour Valentinerdquo

In he year 496 AD Pope Gelasius choseBishop Valentine as the patron saint of loverswho would be honoured on the fourteenth ofevery February Over the years ValentinesDay has evolved into a holiday when giftscards flowers and chocolates are given tothose we love or would like to start arelationship with And it is all because of along ago Roman Bishop named Valentine

Over the centuries many Valentine legendshave evolved and the theme of this monthrsquosmagazine was inspired by the old Englishtradition - that February 14th is the day thatbirds fall in love and choose their mates hellip

22

Owls in Love Cushion CoverNine cute little owls - and two who simply canrsquot take their eyes off each other

Sized to fit 16rdquo square cushion pad

23

To make a 16rdquo cover you will need

Blanket pieces or other woollen fabric Onepiece 16rdquo square and two pieces 16rdquo x 12rdquo

3 x 9rdquo square felt for owl bodies ndash colourstoffee oak and caramel

2 x 6rdquo square felt for owl spectacles ndash coloursmushroom and skintone

6rdquo square felt for owl eyes ndash colour buttermilk

Small scrap of red felt for heart

Scraps of fabric for owl breasts

18 small buttons (9 matching pairs) for centresof eyes ndash or if you are making for a childrsquosroom then substitute buttons with small circlesof felt

Gold embroidery floss for beaks and feet

Dark brown dark red and very pale greenembroidery floss

Spray fabric adhesive or Bondaweb

Pinking shears

Make your applique panel

Make your owls up before attaching them to the frontof your cushion pad

Cut out 7 ordinary owls and 2 owls with wingoutstretched from felt reversing your templateso the wings are on opposite sides of the owls

Cut out spectacles and eyes from felt and breastsfrom your fabric

scraps Cut along the base edge of the breastpiece with pinking shears if you have them asthis will give a nice feather effect on yourfinished owls

Take the square piece of your woollen fabric andfold it into three equal parts both vertically andhorizontally Press lightly then open out Yourfabric will now be divided into 9 equal-sizedsquares by the creases you have created

Place one owl in each square using the photo atthe top of the pattern Do not attach them to thebase fabric You are positioning them at thisstage to help you choose how to position theirbreasts spectacles and eyes

Position breasts spectacles eyes and buttons onowls playing around with them until you arehappy with their arrangement If you are usingdifferent designs of fabric for the breasts thentake your time at this stage to make sure yoursquovechosen the best combination of fabrics

When you are happy with your arrangementtake each owl in turn and attach first the breastand then the spectacles using spray fabricadhesive The spectacles should cover the rawedge at the top of the breast

Straight machine stitch along the base of the owljust inside the pinked edge then machine zig-zagover the raw edges of the sides of the breasts andstraight around the spectacles and zig-zag downthe second side of the breast You donrsquot need tofully stitch around the bottom of the spectaclesas these will be attached when you add the beak

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

22

Owls in Love Cushion CoverNine cute little owls - and two who simply canrsquot take their eyes off each other

Sized to fit 16rdquo square cushion pad

23

To make a 16rdquo cover you will need

Blanket pieces or other woollen fabric Onepiece 16rdquo square and two pieces 16rdquo x 12rdquo

3 x 9rdquo square felt for owl bodies ndash colourstoffee oak and caramel

2 x 6rdquo square felt for owl spectacles ndash coloursmushroom and skintone

6rdquo square felt for owl eyes ndash colour buttermilk

Small scrap of red felt for heart

Scraps of fabric for owl breasts

18 small buttons (9 matching pairs) for centresof eyes ndash or if you are making for a childrsquosroom then substitute buttons with small circlesof felt

Gold embroidery floss for beaks and feet

Dark brown dark red and very pale greenembroidery floss

Spray fabric adhesive or Bondaweb

Pinking shears

Make your applique panel

Make your owls up before attaching them to the frontof your cushion pad

Cut out 7 ordinary owls and 2 owls with wingoutstretched from felt reversing your templateso the wings are on opposite sides of the owls

Cut out spectacles and eyes from felt and breastsfrom your fabric

scraps Cut along the base edge of the breastpiece with pinking shears if you have them asthis will give a nice feather effect on yourfinished owls

Take the square piece of your woollen fabric andfold it into three equal parts both vertically andhorizontally Press lightly then open out Yourfabric will now be divided into 9 equal-sizedsquares by the creases you have created

Place one owl in each square using the photo atthe top of the pattern Do not attach them to thebase fabric You are positioning them at thisstage to help you choose how to position theirbreasts spectacles and eyes

Position breasts spectacles eyes and buttons onowls playing around with them until you arehappy with their arrangement If you are usingdifferent designs of fabric for the breasts thentake your time at this stage to make sure yoursquovechosen the best combination of fabrics

When you are happy with your arrangementtake each owl in turn and attach first the breastand then the spectacles using spray fabricadhesive The spectacles should cover the rawedge at the top of the breast

Straight machine stitch along the base of the owljust inside the pinked edge then machine zig-zagover the raw edges of the sides of the breasts andstraight around the spectacles and zig-zag downthe second side of the breast You donrsquot need tofully stitch around the bottom of the spectaclesas these will be attached when you add the beak

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

23

To make a 16rdquo cover you will need

Blanket pieces or other woollen fabric Onepiece 16rdquo square and two pieces 16rdquo x 12rdquo

3 x 9rdquo square felt for owl bodies ndash colourstoffee oak and caramel

2 x 6rdquo square felt for owl spectacles ndash coloursmushroom and skintone

6rdquo square felt for owl eyes ndash colour buttermilk

Small scrap of red felt for heart

Scraps of fabric for owl breasts

18 small buttons (9 matching pairs) for centresof eyes ndash or if you are making for a childrsquosroom then substitute buttons with small circlesof felt

Gold embroidery floss for beaks and feet

Dark brown dark red and very pale greenembroidery floss

Spray fabric adhesive or Bondaweb

Pinking shears

Make your applique panel

Make your owls up before attaching them to the frontof your cushion pad

Cut out 7 ordinary owls and 2 owls with wingoutstretched from felt reversing your templateso the wings are on opposite sides of the owls

Cut out spectacles and eyes from felt and breastsfrom your fabric

scraps Cut along the base edge of the breastpiece with pinking shears if you have them asthis will give a nice feather effect on yourfinished owls

Take the square piece of your woollen fabric andfold it into three equal parts both vertically andhorizontally Press lightly then open out Yourfabric will now be divided into 9 equal-sizedsquares by the creases you have created

Place one owl in each square using the photo atthe top of the pattern Do not attach them to thebase fabric You are positioning them at thisstage to help you choose how to position theirbreasts spectacles and eyes

Position breasts spectacles eyes and buttons onowls playing around with them until you arehappy with their arrangement If you are usingdifferent designs of fabric for the breasts thentake your time at this stage to make sure yoursquovechosen the best combination of fabrics

When you are happy with your arrangementtake each owl in turn and attach first the breastand then the spectacles using spray fabricadhesive The spectacles should cover the rawedge at the top of the breast

Straight machine stitch along the base of the owljust inside the pinked edge then machine zig-zagover the raw edges of the sides of the breasts andstraight around the spectacles and zig-zag downthe second side of the breast You donrsquot need tofully stitch around the bottom of the spectaclesas these will be attached when you add the beak

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

24

Attach the eyes using spray adhesive and thenusing golden embroidery floss (6 strands) attachthe buttons for the pupils The template showsthe buttons in the centre but they actually lookbest slightly off centre (same in both eyes or yourowl will be crosseyed) Make sure the two lovebirds are looking at each other (See photos forguide)

Stitch the felt eye circles to the spectacles asshown using three strands of pale green flossStitch the beak and feet using six strands of goldfloss

Attach your finished owls to the front panel usingspray adhesive or Bondaweb

Then stitch around the edges using small straightstitches at right-angles to the owl shape and threestrands of dark brown floss Make the stitches alittle longer at the base of the breasts to look likefeathers

Stitch the wings on the love birds in the same wayand add some back-stitching for feathers (seephotographs)

Attach the loveheart between the two owls asshown in the photographs

Make up your cushion cover

Press lightly on the reverse of your applique panelto press out your guideline creases

Hem one long edge of each of the back pieces

Place your front panel right side up on a cleanflat surface then place your back pieces on topaligning the sides and with the hemmed edgesoverlapping at the centre and pin or stitch inplace

Machine stitch twice (for strength) around theedges of the cushion pad frac12rdquo in from the edgeMake your corners rounded to allow for thethickness of the fabric when turning (Your coverwill be slightly smaller than your pad size whichwill make for a plump cushion and also allow forthe pad flattening slightly with use)

Turn right side out and insert pad

ADMIRE

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

25

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

26

Made for Each OtherWhen I was a child I had a book about a little hedgehog who was lonely and unlovedbecause her prickles hurt anyone who came too close In the end she did find lovehellip with a turtle who didnt mind her spikey body Memories of that book haveinspired the embroidery on this heart showing the little hedgehog snuggled upagainst her true love

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

27

Filled with lavender this heart would make a perfectgift for a loved one or maybe a wedding favour Itsreally easy to make and the embroidery is verysimple hellip

You will need

2 x 10 square (28 cm square) linen Stranded cotton floss in light brown and pink Dried lavender Polyfil 6 (15 cm) ribbon for hanging

Method

Transfer the embroidery pattern shown actualsize onto the centre one of the linen squares (foldin 4 and where the creases cross is the centre)

Using two strands of floss work the design inback stitch for the outlines and short straightstitch for the hedgehogrsquos prickles

Use long and short stitch to embroider the heart

The cheeks are worked freehand in satin stitch

Wash your fabric if necessary to remove thetransfer lines Iron on the reverse

Cut out two heart shapes from the linen Placeright sides together and position ribbon at top ofheart as shown

Pin and stitch the pieces together leaving a 2 (5cm) gap for turning

Trim closely at point of heart (careful not to cutstitches) and clip the curves at the top Turnright side out and press

Stuff with polyfil at the top of the heart to give ita nice rounded shape and fill the bottom part withlavender

Hand stitch the gap you left for turning closedand hang

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

28

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

29

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

30

Possibly the most frequentquery I receive is ldquoHow do Itransfer my embroidery designfrom the printed page to myfabricrdquo

This is one of those questionswhere there isnrsquot a single rightor wrong answer ndash itrsquos allabout choosing the method thatworks best for you

The easiest method to transfer a design is ofcourse an iron-on transfer many of whichused to be given away free with needlework

magazines in the mid-20th century printed in eitherblue or silver

My grandmother had a huge collection of thesetransfers all carefully stored in a biscuit box with acute puppy and kitten picture on the lid There weresunbonnet and crinoline ladies - too many to count -birds bears and an infinite variety of flower patternsIf you enjoy stitching vintage its still easy to findthese old designs in thrift shops at jumble sales andof course on auction sites such as eBay

But if you donrsquot have a transfer and want to transfera downloaded pattern (like those in this magazine)there are several different methods available to yousome of which are easier and so perhaps morepopular than others

If youre embroidering onto a pale colouredlight-weight fabric then its easy to trace yourdesign onto it as though it was tracing paper To

do this print your design in the usual way then tapeyour printed sheet to a light source - most usually alight box or window pane Position your fabric overit right side up making sure that the design isbeneath the position you have chosen for yourfinished embroidery

Tape your fabric in place over the paper Dont betempted to try to hold it with one hand while tracingwith the other - unless its really small and simpleyour fabric is quite likely to slip out of positionleading to frustration and a spoiled design (I amspeaking from experience) If you have some thenmasking tape is the best to use as its easier to removethan sellotape and leaves less sticky residue Use thesmallest amount you actually need and keep it to theedges of your fabric just in case

When everything is securely held in place trace overyour design with a sharp pencil or a water solubletemporary fabric marker pen I have read debateonline about whether or not the marks from thesepens can reappear over a period of time spoiling yourfinished work I havent personally experienced this

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

31

problem but if in doubt then use a pencil This willleave a permanent mark but it wont bleed into otherareas and should be covered by your stitching

Another popular choice is to use dressmakerscarbon paper This isnt at all the same as theold-fashioned carbon paper those of us of a

certain age remember using when typing copies of aletter on a typewriter (Aside Did you know thattypewriters are no longer manufactured anywhere inthe world) Dressmakers carbon paper is a thickerwaxier paper and doesnt smudge It is available indifferent colours to suit different fabrics Thistechnique is only good for smooth fabrics

Iron the fabric you want to stitch on and then placeit right side up on a clean flat surface Tape itsecurely to the surface Choose the best colourcarbon paper to show up on this fabric and tape thisinto place shiny side down Then position yourpattern on top of the carbon paper and again tape (orpin) it to stop it slipping around as you work Thentake a pencil or ballpoint pen and draw carefully overthe lines of the pattern

Dont press too hard or you might tear the paper andspoil the design but press firmly enough for yourlines to show up on the fabric You might want totest this first on a corner of the fabric Once youvetraced over all the lines remove the tape and lift offthe pattern and carbon paper - your design will thenbe ready to stitch

You can also purchase transfer pencils - thelines these draw will iron onto your fabric inthe same way as the old-fashioned transfers

For this method you will need to print the reversedpattern Then on your printed sheet draw over thepattern lines with the transfer pen The sheet can thenbe turned over and the design ironed onto your fabric- when of course it will be the right way round

Prick and pounce is a time-honoured methodthat sounds like some kind of old-fashionedmusic hall act - in fact its a very old tried and

trusted method of transferring a design to fabric Itdoes take a little while but is very effective Thepounce is a powder which comes in either black(crushed charcoal) or white (powdered cuttlefish -yes really) - or you can mix the two to make grey

You can purchase a special pad to apply the pounceor make your own from a rolled up piece of felt Thentrace your design onto tracing paper and lay it on afolded cloth or ironing board With a hat pin pin incork or even another special tool you can purchasejust for this purpose prick a series of small holesclosely together all along the design lines Then tapeyour fabric onto a flat board or working surface andtape the pricked tracing paper onto the fabric Dipyour pad into the pounce powder and with a circularmotion gently rub the pounce over the design

Complete the whole design before removing thepricked tracing paper in a single nice clean

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

32

movement If you brush the pounce from the prickedpaper it can be reused indefinitely Now followingthe pounce outline paint a fine line all along thedotted outlines on the fabric using a brush andwatercolour paint or very fine marker Then un-tapeand shake your fabric to remove the pounce

Tacking through tissue paper is another atime-honoured fairly time consumingmethod of transferring your design It is great

in that it leaves absolutely no marks on your fabricand is suitable for all kinds of fabric

Carefully trace your design onto tissue paper Thenposition your tracing on top of the fabric and securein place around the edges Tack around the outlinestarting and finishing your line securely Make surethe stitches are not too small or they will be hard toremove and not too big so that you miss parts of thedesign

Once youve stitched over the whole design carefullytear away the tissue paper leaving the tacking on thefabric (you can also buy water soluble paper to helpin this stage) If youre working on a light or delicatefabric then be very very careful when removing the

paper so you dont damage the fabric The tackingstitch outline can be removed as you progress or afterthe embroidery is completed

My favourite way is to print the design inreverse using my laser printer Then I useheat to transfer the design to my fabric I

have an old heat press that is great for this as it appliesthe heat evenly and the press holds everything inplace securely This method only works for cottonand linen fabrics though as I have found that for thebest results the transfer time needs to be in excess of40 seconds and it requires a temperature of 195degrees so there is always a danger of scorching

I dont know if this would be possible with an ironand would hesitate to recommend this method - butif you have access to a heat press and laser printerthen you could experiment - once youve found theideal settings its a great method as even the tiniestdetails can be transferred without difficulty

If you have successfully used another method orhave any hints yoursquod like to share then please dolet me know so I can pass them on to Bustle amp

Sew readers Meanwhile hellip happy stitching

Sparrows are vintageBestway transfers

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

33

Vintage Pattern Moonlight CapersThis pattern was published in the May 1952 issue of ldquoStitchcraftrdquo The instructions are quite detailedwith little diagrams for the needlelace details I think the design would also lend itself well to appliqueItrsquos the little details that I like best such as the two inquisitive bunnies wondering what is happening on

this starlight night

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

34

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

35

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

36

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

37

Daisy Knot BagCheerful little bag thatrsquos so easy to make with no complicated zips or poppers to insertThe simple daisy applique design makes this easy pattern into something just a little bit

special - and perfect for those warmer days of spring and summer

Finished bag measures 9 frac12 ldquo high x 7rdquo diameter base (approx)

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

38

You will need

frac12 yard heavy weight fabric for bag exterior

frac12 yard quilting weight fabric for lining

12 x 18rdquo piece of white felt

9rdquo square yellow felt

Scraps of green felt in 3 different shades forleaves

Newspaper to draw pattern

Green black and cream thread for machineneedle cream or other light colour for bobbin

Darningembroidery foot for sewing machine

Bondaweb

Note Seam allowance is frac14rdquo throughout

Cut your pieces

Using the diagram above draw the template foryour bag shape onto your newspaper Alsodraw a 7rdquo diameter circle for the bag base

Cut the main bag pieces and also 2 pieces forthe base - one from your lining and one fromyour exterior fabric

Applique Panel

Join your two exterior pieces from A to B (ie9rdquo up from the base of the bag) and press seamflat

Using the diagram on the next page as a guidedraw 12 daisy shapes 12 daisy centres and 21leaf shapes onto the paper side of yourBondaweb The daisies vary between 2rdquo and 3rdquoin diameter and are very simple - just like theflowers we all used to draw as children

Iron the Bondaweb onto your felt then cut outthe shapes and peel off the paper backing

Position your applique shapes onto your bagpanel using the diagram on the next page as aguide The bottom of the applique should be nocloser than 1rdquo to the bottom of your exteriorfabric Remember that you will need frac14rdquo seamallowance on each end to join your panel so donot position your applique shapes too close tothe ends

When yoursquore happy with your applique iron thefelt shapes onto the fabric I usually cover feltwith a muslin cloth before pressing felt to avoidflattening scorching or marking it

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

39

Do not iron down your shapes until yoursquore happywith the positioning Overlap some leaves with

the daisy shapes

Fit the darningembroidery foot to yourmachine and drop the feed dogs With greenthread in your needle and creamlight colouredthread in your bobbin stitch twice around eachdaisy shape and twice around each centre Yourstitching shouldnrsquot be too neat you are aimingfor a sort of scribbled effect

Then change to black in your needle and stitchtwice around the edge of the leaves and downthe middle of each leaf to represent the veins

Make the centre stitching a bit wobbly on eitherside as though smaller veins were branchingout from the centre

Turn your panel over and press lightly on thereverse Your applique is now finished

Assemble your bag

Fold your exterior panel in half along the seamyou joined at the beginning and sew the sideseam in the same way as the first side (ie fromA to B again)

Insert the circular base

Repeat these steps with the lining fabric butjoining the lining on both sides from A to B

You will now have two pieces that look likebags but without the handles joined

Insert the bag exterior bag into the lining withthe right sides facing

Sew the outer fabric and the lining togetheralong the sides of the handles and the curve atthe top of the bag to within 2rdquo of the top ofeach handle (This feels very odd but it willwork out in the end)

Turn the bag right-side out through the top ofone handle

Join the handles at the top of the lining andexterior seams

Turn the side seams under and press well

Top stitch all around the handles and thecurve at the top of the bag this will holdeverything in place

Press along seams Your bag is now finished

40

40

41

Some time ago I asked blog readers about theirfavourite stitching tips They responded verygenerously - and I received an enormous numberof tips ranging from the seemingly sensible to theweird and wacky On trying them out every singleone worked so I thought it would be fun to sharea few here too

If you have any tips yoursquod like to share with otherreaders then please do email mehelenbustleandsewcom so I can include them infuture issues

ldquoI keep several needles going at the same time anditrsquos a trial trying to remember which colour is whichSo I fold a piece of felt 9rdquo x 12rdquo into quarters andtack it together Then I put a piece of clear packingtape down the centre Now I write the colour numberand symbol if need be on small labels and stick themto the tape in two rows I have been able to put upto 22 colours on my needle keeper at a time I keepseveral of these around so when I want to start a newproject I already have a needle keeper readyrdquo

Kate Roland

httpcrazypurplemomblogspotcom

ldquoJust a little thing really when threading yourneedle hold the thread between your thumb andforefinger have just a little peeking out - about frac14rdquothen lower the needle onto the thread - works everytime for me I was given this advice by a lady fromthe WI years agordquo

Lesleyann Bradford

ldquoAlways have your thread no longer than the lengthbetween your elbow and the tip of your finger Thisavoids thread knotting uprdquo

Ann Brown

httpanniebhandmadeblogspotcom

ldquoTo separate your stranded embroidery threads (egDMC) cut thread to length Hold threads about 1cm (just under frac12rdquo) from the top Separate them alittle and take hold of one thread Gently pull it outof the bundle with one hand while still holding therest of the threads in the other hand You will needto then run your fingers down the rest of the threadsto straighten them Repeat for each single thread youneed This stops all the tangling up of the threadswhen separating themrdquo

Christine MacDonald

httpmacdonaldspatchblogspotcom

ldquoThis may be something that everybody alreadyknows but when my mother taught me toembroider she explained what for me has been avery helpful tip When yoursquore having troublegetting your needle to come up in just the right spot- for example when working extremely smallstitches or when the canvas is already quitecrowded and you canrsquot see well or stitch withoutcatching other threads accidentally stick yourneedle in from the top of the fabric where you cansee exactly where yoursquore putting it and wiggle itaround for a moment Then take it back out againwithout making a stitch When you remove it thehole yoursquove made will stay open long enough foryou to take the needle round to the back again andpoke it up through the hole at exactly the right spotrdquo

Cecilia

ldquoI know this is very basic but I like to press thefabric flat before placing it in a hoop I have betterluck with smoother stitches I donrsquot use starch orsizing on it just a good pressing to smooth out anywrinkles in the fabricrdquo

Linda

Hints and Tips from Stitchers

42

Mice are Nice EmbroideryThree endearing little mice decorate two verses of Rose Fylmanrsquos delightful poem ldquoIthink mice are rather nicerdquo Certainly these little embroidered mice are rather nice -

and wonrsquot be nibbling things they shouldnrsquot touch anytime soon

Finished design measures 7 frac34rdquo x 10 frac12rdquo

43

You will need

12rdquo x 14rdquo piece of material suitable forembroidering on (I used a vintage eiderdownfabric) It should be non-stretchy and made fromcotton linen or a blend of the two fibres Thisdesign looks good if you choose a fabric with asimple print as the palette used in the actualstitching is quite limited the print will make thefinished work ldquosparklerdquo

DMC stranded cotton floss in colours 310 746945 3021 3750 3782 3790 3864

General notes on stitching

Stitches used are long amp short stitch straightstitch back stitch stem stitch satin stitch andFrench knots

The transfers are given at 70 of actual size

Two strands of floss are used throughout exceptfor whiskers and the shadow line beneath feetand tails when one strand was used

The eyes are stitched in satin stitch 310 with atiny stitch in a single strand of 746 to add sparkle

Two shades of pink are used for paws ears tailsand noses Use the darker shade (3864) wherethere would be shadows ie bottom edge of tailbottoms of paws and base of ears and blend inthe lighter shade where more light would fall ona real mouse

The text is stitched in backstitch in 2 strands of3750 When working text be very precise withyour back stitch ensuring that your needle goesup and down through the fabric in the same hole

so your words will have a nice smooth lineYour stitches wonrsquot be all the same size makethem shorter to fit around curves If there is achoice between one slightly longer stitch and twoshorter ones always make them shorter

Notes on stitching fur

There are just two important things to rememberwhen stitching fur - firstly the direction in which thefur lies and secondly the contours and shadingof theanimal - or where the fur will be lighter or darkerdue to shadowed areas

I have seen animals with fur stitched around theireyes in circles - this is quite wrong and doesnrsquot lookat all natural If you have a pet then look carefullyat him or her and notice the direction in which thefur grows ALWAYS away from the nose The noseis the focus of all your fur And look at how their furoverlaps so that fur nearest the nose lies on top offur further down the body To achieve this effectyou need to decide how the fur would lie on theanimal you are stitching

IIt is a good idea to stitch the tail and paws in pinkfirst (I didnrsquot do this with the mouse Irsquom going toshow you in stages and had to go back and add extrastitches) If you do this then you can overlap the endof your pink stitching with fur stitches - just as in areal animal

Start with the tail end then as you progress your laterstitches will overlap these earlier ones again this isexactly how fur lies on a real animal Abandon anythought of stitching along the outline - your furshould lie at an angle to the outline giving you aslightly fluffy rather than completely smooth mouse

Arrows indicate direction of fur

44

Start with the shadows making small straight stitcheswith the darkest colour You donrsquot have to completethe whole mouse in one colour before starting thenext itrsquos easier to work in sections going back toadjust if it doesnrsquot look quite right

Oh And please excuse the differing quality of thephotos I simply snapped as I stitched so the lightingchanges all the time

Now Irsquove started to add some medium brownconcentrating it in the areas that will be most inshadow - around his bottom and back leg

Continuing with the medium brown Be sure to keepthe stitches irregular and scattered - you donrsquot wantnice neat straight lines If later stitches slightlyoverlap earlier ones thatrsquos absolutely fine Thedenser the stitching the more lush and thick yourmousersquos fur will appear to be

Realising my mistake with paws and tail Irsquove nowadded them Irsquove also started to add the lightest shadeof fur to his back - and also on his tummy which willbe speckled and mainly cream

Continuing in the same way mixing the fur coloursYou can see Irsquove now added cream to his tummy

Irsquove added the shadow line beneath his tail and pawsand stitched his eye before I start work on his headIrsquove also gone back and added a few stitches to thebase of his tail so the fur overlaps its end and you cansee the speckled cream effect on his tummy

45

Work continuing on his head Irsquove added claws ina single strand of dark brown floss and worked hispink ear in long and short stitch using the darkershade at the bottom of the ear and lighter at the topwhere the light would catch it His cream furcontinues under his chin and his nose is pink

I have filled in the head with medium brown andlight brown Notice the stitches on the back ear runin a different direction to the fur on the head Hisoverall fur is still a little thin though time to go backand fill in some of the gaps

All finished The tiny sparkle stitch in his eye reallybrings him to life I have added his whiskers in asingle strand of floss and added more stitching to hiscoat to fill in those gaps A very handsome fellowindeed

The other mice are worked in exactly the same waythough I havenrsquot shown them stage by stage hereare larger photos so you can see their fur in detail

Notice the cream fur around the top of his back leg- this helps delineate his leg line

Again cream and paler fur around the edge of hisback leg Darker fur along the right hand edge ofhis body

46

47

48

49

An Alphabet of Stitches (4)

50

51

52

43

You will need

12rdquo x 14rdquo piece of material suitable forembroidering on (I used a vintage eiderdownfabric) It should be non-stretchy and made fromcotton linen or a blend of the two fibres Thisdesign looks good if you choose a fabric with asimple print as the palette used in the actualstitching is quite limited the print will make thefinished work ldquosparklerdquo

DMC stranded cotton floss in colours 310 746945 3021 3750 3782 3790 3864

General notes on stitching

Stitches used are long amp short stitch straightstitch back stitch stem stitch satin stitch andFrench knots

The transfers are given at 70 of actual size

Two strands of floss are used throughout exceptfor whiskers and the shadow line beneath feetand tails when one strand was used

The eyes are stitched in satin stitch 310 with atiny stitch in a single strand of 746 to add sparkle

Two shades of pink are used for paws ears tailsand noses Use the darker shade (3864) wherethere would be shadows ie bottom edge of tailbottoms of paws and base of ears and blend inthe lighter shade where more light would fall ona real mouse

The text is stitched in backstitch in 2 strands of3750 When working text be very precise withyour back stitch ensuring that your needle goesup and down through the fabric in the same hole

so your words will have a nice smooth lineYour stitches wonrsquot be all the same size makethem shorter to fit around curves If there is achoice between one slightly longer stitch and twoshorter ones always make them shorter

Notes on stitching fur

There are just two important things to rememberwhen stitching fur - firstly the direction in which thefur lies and secondly the contours and shadingof theanimal - or where the fur will be lighter or darkerdue to shadowed areas

I have seen animals with fur stitched around theireyes in circles - this is quite wrong and doesnrsquot lookat all natural If you have a pet then look carefullyat him or her and notice the direction in which thefur grows ALWAYS away from the nose The noseis the focus of all your fur And look at how their furoverlaps so that fur nearest the nose lies on top offur further down the body To achieve this effectyou need to decide how the fur would lie on theanimal you are stitching

IIt is a good idea to stitch the tail and paws in pinkfirst (I didnrsquot do this with the mouse Irsquom going toshow you in stages and had to go back and add extrastitches) If you do this then you can overlap the endof your pink stitching with fur stitches - just as in areal animal

Start with the tail end then as you progress your laterstitches will overlap these earlier ones again this isexactly how fur lies on a real animal Abandon anythought of stitching along the outline - your furshould lie at an angle to the outline giving you aslightly fluffy rather than completely smooth mouse

Arrows indicate direction of fur

44

Start with the shadows making small straight stitcheswith the darkest colour You donrsquot have to completethe whole mouse in one colour before starting thenext itrsquos easier to work in sections going back toadjust if it doesnrsquot look quite right

Oh And please excuse the differing quality of thephotos I simply snapped as I stitched so the lightingchanges all the time

Now Irsquove started to add some medium brownconcentrating it in the areas that will be most inshadow - around his bottom and back leg

Continuing with the medium brown Be sure to keepthe stitches irregular and scattered - you donrsquot wantnice neat straight lines If later stitches slightlyoverlap earlier ones thatrsquos absolutely fine Thedenser the stitching the more lush and thick yourmousersquos fur will appear to be

Realising my mistake with paws and tail Irsquove nowadded them Irsquove also started to add the lightest shadeof fur to his back - and also on his tummy which willbe speckled and mainly cream

Continuing in the same way mixing the fur coloursYou can see Irsquove now added cream to his tummy

Irsquove added the shadow line beneath his tail and pawsand stitched his eye before I start work on his headIrsquove also gone back and added a few stitches to thebase of his tail so the fur overlaps its end and you cansee the speckled cream effect on his tummy

45

Work continuing on his head Irsquove added claws ina single strand of dark brown floss and worked hispink ear in long and short stitch using the darkershade at the bottom of the ear and lighter at the topwhere the light would catch it His cream furcontinues under his chin and his nose is pink

I have filled in the head with medium brown andlight brown Notice the stitches on the back ear runin a different direction to the fur on the head Hisoverall fur is still a little thin though time to go backand fill in some of the gaps

All finished The tiny sparkle stitch in his eye reallybrings him to life I have added his whiskers in asingle strand of floss and added more stitching to hiscoat to fill in those gaps A very handsome fellowindeed

The other mice are worked in exactly the same waythough I havenrsquot shown them stage by stage hereare larger photos so you can see their fur in detail

Notice the cream fur around the top of his back leg- this helps delineate his leg line

Again cream and paler fur around the edge of hisback leg Darker fur along the right hand edge ofhis body

46

47

48

49

An Alphabet of Stitches (4)

50

51

52

44

Start with the shadows making small straight stitcheswith the darkest colour You donrsquot have to completethe whole mouse in one colour before starting thenext itrsquos easier to work in sections going back toadjust if it doesnrsquot look quite right

Oh And please excuse the differing quality of thephotos I simply snapped as I stitched so the lightingchanges all the time

Now Irsquove started to add some medium brownconcentrating it in the areas that will be most inshadow - around his bottom and back leg

Continuing with the medium brown Be sure to keepthe stitches irregular and scattered - you donrsquot wantnice neat straight lines If later stitches slightlyoverlap earlier ones thatrsquos absolutely fine Thedenser the stitching the more lush and thick yourmousersquos fur will appear to be

Realising my mistake with paws and tail Irsquove nowadded them Irsquove also started to add the lightest shadeof fur to his back - and also on his tummy which willbe speckled and mainly cream

Continuing in the same way mixing the fur coloursYou can see Irsquove now added cream to his tummy

Irsquove added the shadow line beneath his tail and pawsand stitched his eye before I start work on his headIrsquove also gone back and added a few stitches to thebase of his tail so the fur overlaps its end and you cansee the speckled cream effect on his tummy

45

Work continuing on his head Irsquove added claws ina single strand of dark brown floss and worked hispink ear in long and short stitch using the darkershade at the bottom of the ear and lighter at the topwhere the light would catch it His cream furcontinues under his chin and his nose is pink

I have filled in the head with medium brown andlight brown Notice the stitches on the back ear runin a different direction to the fur on the head Hisoverall fur is still a little thin though time to go backand fill in some of the gaps

All finished The tiny sparkle stitch in his eye reallybrings him to life I have added his whiskers in asingle strand of floss and added more stitching to hiscoat to fill in those gaps A very handsome fellowindeed

The other mice are worked in exactly the same waythough I havenrsquot shown them stage by stage hereare larger photos so you can see their fur in detail

Notice the cream fur around the top of his back leg- this helps delineate his leg line

Again cream and paler fur around the edge of hisback leg Darker fur along the right hand edge ofhis body

46

47

48

49

An Alphabet of Stitches (4)

50

51

52

45

Work continuing on his head Irsquove added claws ina single strand of dark brown floss and worked hispink ear in long and short stitch using the darkershade at the bottom of the ear and lighter at the topwhere the light would catch it His cream furcontinues under his chin and his nose is pink

I have filled in the head with medium brown andlight brown Notice the stitches on the back ear runin a different direction to the fur on the head Hisoverall fur is still a little thin though time to go backand fill in some of the gaps

All finished The tiny sparkle stitch in his eye reallybrings him to life I have added his whiskers in asingle strand of floss and added more stitching to hiscoat to fill in those gaps A very handsome fellowindeed

The other mice are worked in exactly the same waythough I havenrsquot shown them stage by stage hereare larger photos so you can see their fur in detail

Notice the cream fur around the top of his back leg- this helps delineate his leg line

Again cream and paler fur around the edge of hisback leg Darker fur along the right hand edge ofhis body

46

47

48

49

An Alphabet of Stitches (4)

50

51

52

46

47

48

49

An Alphabet of Stitches (4)

50

51

52

47

48

49

An Alphabet of Stitches (4)

50

51

52

48

49

An Alphabet of Stitches (4)

50

51

52

49

An Alphabet of Stitches (4)

50

51

52

50

51

52

51

52

52

53

BUSTLE amp SEW

The ldquoBustle amp Sew Magazinerdquo is a Bustle amp Sewpublication To see my full range of Rosie amp Bearpublications together with many more stitchingapplique softie and quilting projects please visit mywebsite

wwwbustleandsewcom

You can also find out about my Bustle amp SewMagazine on my website This is my monthly e-zinepacked with unique projects articles features andloads more and is by far the best (and nicest) way tobuild your collection of Bustle amp Sew patternshellip

Yoursquoll never be stuck for ideas again Just visit themagazine page on my website to learn more

wwwbustleandsewcommagazine

Bustle amp Sew designs