A basic guide to cosmetic formulation

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John Woodruff

A Basic Guide to

Cosmetic &

Toiletry Development

[email protected] 2

A Basic Guide to

Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries

� What is a cosmetic?

� Understanding product briefs

� From concept to product formulation

� Sources of information

� EU cosmetic regulations

� The global marketplace

� Cost effective formulation

� Product stability & preservation

� Example formulation techniques

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A Basic Guide to











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What is a cosmetic product?

European Regulations specify 6 functions for

cosmetic products, namely:-

� to perfume

� to clean

� to change the appearance

� to protect

� to keep in good condition

� to correct body odours

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To perfume

� Perfume

� Toilet waters

� Mists & sprays

� Aromatherapy preparations

� Bath additives

� Shower gels

� Deodorants

� Body lotions

These products should

not penetrate the skinbut perfume

compounds

including essential oils may do so.

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To clean

� Soap

� Syndet bars

� Bath additives

� Shower gels

� Cleansing emulsions

� Scrubs

� Cleansing masks

� Shampoos

These products shouldnot penetrate the skin

but they do affect the skin surface (Stratum

corneum – SC), they

can remove skin lipids, affect skin barrier

properties, increase cell turn- over, change

pH & cause loss of

moisture

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To change the appearance

� Decorative cosmetics

� Foundation creams

� Blushers

� Lipsticks & eye shadows

� Fake tans

� Cover fine lines & wrinkles

� Plump out fine lines & wrinkles*

� Freeze facial muscles*

� DHA tanning*

� Skin lightening*

These products shouldnot penetrate the skin.

*These products needto penetrate the S.C.

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To protect

� Sun protection

� Barrier creams

� Antiseptic washes

� Anti-oxidants*

� Protect immune system*


*These products needto penetrate the S.C.

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To keep in good condition

� Moisturise

� Occlusive film

� Humectants

� NMF*

� Anti-oxidants*

� Support immune system*

� Plump out fine lines & wrinkles*

*Generally these

products need to

penetrate the S.C.

NMF = Urea, cholesterol,

sodium lactate, lactic acid,

amino acids, phospholipids,

sodium PCa, water

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To correct body odours

� Deodorants

� Antiperspirants

� Cleansing*

� e.g.washing


*These products may

affect the S.C.


Field of application

The field of application of cosmetics is to one or more of the following:

� the epidermis

� the hair system

� the nails

� the lips

� the external genital organs

� the teeth

� the mucous membranes of the oral cavity


A Basic Guide to


Field of

Application –

anywhere

visible, with

or without

swimming costumes


A Basic Guide to












A Basic Guide to


� The Brief

� A clear concise document produced by the marketing department after extensive market research with intended claims clearly defined.

� Or

� Woolly description full of pitfalls like “Natural” & “Organic” and claims changing as new ideas occur to originator.


A Basic Guide to


The Packaging

� Already identified and selected as the ideal pack form to contain and deliver the product.

� Or

� To be decided!� Usually after 2 months stability testing on a

product with a quite unsuitable rheology for the final pack choice.


A Basic Guide to


� The Bench Mark

� An exciting & innovative product with clear functional benefits & with a similar selling price to the product required.

� Or

� Two or three totally different products, all 3x the selling price of the product required.

� Does the bench mark meet the product requirements?

� Claims, market niche, legislation?


A Basic Guide to


� The Time Table

� A program agreed between all concerned, allowing sufficient time for formulation, testing and

proceeding to manufacture via pilot scale batches.

� Or

� Marketing has a slot promised by a major store 5 months ahead. That is plenty of time surely!

� Remember formulations can fail at any

stage.


Tip

� Read the brief and also read between the lines:

� If “natural” claims then reduce non-naturals

to a minimum & no animal ingredients

� If “organic” avoid all proscribed ingredients

� E.g. Ethoxylated materials

� Most preservatives / colours / minerals /

petroleum-based materials etc.etc.


Tip


� If one customer, obey special requirements

� If for sensitive areas, mucous membranes etc.

avoid unsuitable colours & preservatives

� Mucous membranes

� in the vicinity of the eyes

� on the lips

� in the oral cavity

� on the external genital organs


Tip


� Identify target consumer

� Young – greasy, acne

� Cleanse, tone & leave alone

� Old – mature, dry, sensitive, lacking radiance &

resilience

� Cleanse, desquamate, moisturise, cover up

� Middle – combination skin

� Protect & moisturise


A Basic Guide to












Sources of Information

� Look at the bench mark & competitors products?� Do they deliver their claims? � If so how?

� cosmeticsdesign-europe.com

� Chemidex.com

� Cosmeticsbusiness.com

� Suppliers representatives & web sites

� Trade press & relevant articles

� Conference presentations

� Patent literature

� Text books


A Basic Guide to












The Regulations

Ignore at your peril

� EU 76/768/EEC – The 7th Amendment

� And all subsequent amendments

� The Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations 2004 SI 2185

� Customer-specific requirements

� e.g. Boots GR-10


The Regulations

� EU 76/768/EEC – The 7th Amendment

� It lists those materials that cosmetics must not

contain

� Those materials subject to restrictions in field of

application and/or maximum allowed %

� A positive list of colours

� A positive list of antiperspirant materials

� A positive list of preservatives

� A positive list of UV absorbers


Mucous membranes

Be aware� More prone to irritant reactions

� Restrictions on colours

� Restrictions on preservatives� More stringent microbial rules

� Only ingestible products i.e.those with A.D.I., should be applied to the lips� Tip - match pH to area of application e.g.

Eyes are 7+/- 0.2 / Skin is ~5.3


A Basic Guide to












Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries for the

Global Marketplace

� EU / USA / Japan / Brazil etc.

� Each area has own regulations

� Particularly affecting

� Colours

� Preservatives

� Antiperspirants

� Sunscreens

� Also

� Labelling

� Names of ingredients


A Basic Guide to












Cost effective formulation of

Cosmetics & Toiletries

� Start with current material inventory

� Don’t add cost without adding value� Colin Hession

� Keep it simple – but effective

� Look at methods of production

� Process plant availability

� Heating costs / cooling costs / mixing costs / processing time costs

� Fill using current machinery


Tip

� Think commercially

� Use materials that are already in current stock

wherever possible

� Use laboratory mixing equipment which

represents that available in the factory

� Think of the likely batch sizes

� Can they be made with existing equipment?

� If there is a problem can the formula be revised?

� Can the product be filled with existing equipment?


Tips

� Use laboratory mixing equipment which

represents that available in the factory


Tips

Use laboratory

mixing equipment

which represents

that available

in the factory


A Basic Guide to










� Example formulation Techniques


Stability and preservation of


� Preservative choice affected by

� Regulations

� Type of product

� Leave-on or Wash-off?

� pH of product

� pH < 6 / pH > 7

� Other ingredients

� Parabens inactivated by ethoxylates

� Phenoxyethanol thins many emulsions


Stability and preservation of


� Stability checking is essential

� Minimal requirements are stability testing at 4C / RT / 40C for 3 months plus light where applicable

� 45C used by some companies

� Freeze / thaw cycles

� Test in final packaging

� A product should remain stable for minimal 36 months at

RT

� Continuing preservative efficacy over testing period is

essential

� PAO = Period After Opening – depends on product type

and packaging


Tip

� Decide which preservatives can or cannot be

used

� Talk to marketing. Talk to microbiologist

� The choice could affect your product stability

� Make selection of perfume a priority

� Talk to marketing and talk to the supplier

� The choice could affect your product stability

� If possible incorporate these two items in

development samples from the outset


A Basic Guide to


Formulation Techniques


A Basic Guide to


� Cosmetic functions

� to perfume

� to clean

� to change the appearance

� to protect

� to keep in good condition

� to correct body odours


A Basic Guide to


� Functional products are those for which a

claim can be made, and which meet that

claim.

� They consist of the vehicle and the active

ingredient(s).

� The two parts must be compatible and the

final product must be pleasant to use.


Claims substantiation

� All proposed claims and methods of

substantiation should be agreed at the start of

product development so that a clear justification

of claims can be provided from controlled

laboratory trials.

� User trial results (responses from 50 people) or

raw material data or a combination of the above

can be used.

� From Boots document to own label suppliers


Functional skin care

� The vehicle and the active ingredient(s).

� The two parts must be compatible and the

final product must be pleasant to use.

� Which comes first?

� Depends on many factors

� Product form

� Packaging

� Claim


A Basic Guide to


To keep in good condition

� Remove dead skin cells

� Protect from UV radiation

� Support immune system

� Protect from free radical species /ROS

� Replace lost lipids

� Moisturise


A Basic Guide to


� Narrowing the choice

� Cost

� Supporting the claim

� Check that claim support data is realistic and believable

� Will the product support the level of use on which claims data is based?

� Compatibility with vehicle

� Compatibility with packaging

� Safety assessment

� Patent search


Remove dead skin cells

� Wash

� Scrub

� Tape stripping!

� Peels including enzymes e.g. Papain

� Alpha hydroxy acids – AHAs

� Glycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid

/ salicylic acid

� Fruit acids

To keep in

good

condition


AHAs: Selecting the active� Glycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid / salicylic acid

� Proprietary mixtures e.g. Acifructol Complex ex Gattefosse

� Aqua (Water)

� Citric Acid

� Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract

� Citrus Medica Limonum Extract

� Lactic Acid

� Malic Acid

� Propylene Glycol

� Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract

� Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract


AHAs: Safety & legal issues

� The CIR Expert Panel concluded that glycolic and lactic Acid are safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations <10%, at final formulation pH >3.5

� Boots recommendations

� Glycolic acid must be less than 4% in formula and pH of final product must be > 3.8.

� Lactic acid must be less than 2.5% in formula and pH of final product must be > 5.

� If total AHAs are more than 4% then wording must appear on pack recommending consumers use products with AHAs in conjunction with sunscreen products.


AHAs: Selecting the active

� Possible choice

� Glycolic acid

� Plus proprietary mixture

� Combines effectiveness with natural claims


AHAs: Designing the vehicle

� Parameters

� pH 4 – 5

� Electrolytes

� Low oil content

� Penetration required

� Possible forms� o/w emulsion

� foaming mousse

� light scrub


AHAs: Designing the vehicle

� o/w emulsion

� Emulsifier suitable for pH 4 – 5

� Oil or ester resistant to acid hydrolysis

� Penetration enhancer ?

� Balance efficacy against safety

� Urea or ethoxydiglycol

� Or soften SC with emollients

� Anti-irritation ingredient e.g. Bisabolol

� Perfume / Preservatives / Rheology modifier


AHAs: Possible formulation

� 3.00% Glyceryl stearate

� 1.00% PEG-100 stearate

� 3.00% Caprylic / capric triglyceride

� 1.00% Paraffinum liquidum

� Aqua to 100%

� 0.05% Disodium EDTA

� 2.50% Glycolic acid

� 3.00% Mixed fruit acids

� 5.00% Ethoxydiglycol

� 0.50% Bisabolol

� 0.20% Xanthan gum

� Fragrance

� Preservatives e.g. Methyl + propyl paraben

� pH adjusted to 3.8 – 4.3


Protect from solar radiation

Why we should do so!

To keep in

good condition


Protect from solar radiation

� Sunscreen Actives� Organic screens

� Less expensive

� Well known properties & technology

� But possible irritation

� Possibly unstable

� Product / pack interactions

� Inorganic

� Safe

� Broad spectrum

� But whitening on skin

� Drag on application

To keep in

good

condition


UV Protect: Selecting the active

� Dependent on

� Required SPF

� Is UVA protection required?

� Intended market – legislation?

� Intended vehicle & pack form

� Clear gel

� o/w emulsion

� w/o emulsion

� Oil

� Spray


UV Protect: Selecting the active

� Possible answer� Organic UV absorber

� plus inorganic dispersion� Not suitable for oil or clear gel

� e.g. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate – UVB

� TiO2 dispersion in oil phase to extend UV protection into UVA or

� ZnO dispersion for increased UVA protection


UV Protect: Designing the vehicle

Design parameters

� pH

� ZnO approx 8

� Effect of inorganic dispersion aid

� Solubility of active

� Skin penetration not wanted

� Water-resistant

� Pleasant to apply


UV Protect: Possible formulation

� 3.00% Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate

� 2.00% Ethylhexyl Palmitate

� 5.00% Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

� 1.50% Dimethicone &/or cyclopentasiloxane

� 0.50% Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

� 12.50% Titanium Dioxide dispersion in oil

� 3.50% Cera Alba (Beeswax)

� 3.50% Sorbitan Palmitate

� Aqua (Water) to 100%

� 2.00% Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

� 2.00% Magnesium Aluminum Silicate + silica

� 3.50% Polysorbate 20

� 0.30% Sodium Lactate

� Fragrance / Preservatives


Support immune system

� Abstract USP 6,843,995

� The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing an active complex comprised of an extract from truffles (Tuberaceae) in a cosmetically acceptable gel while being stabilized. A preferred active complex is one that additionally contains a champagne product. Cosmeticpreparations containing this active complex lead to an improved stimulation of the immune system, an improved regenerative effect and thus to an improved balance in the ecosystem of the skin.

To keep in

good

condition


Support immune system

� Possible formulation

� Truffles

� Champagne


Protect against free radicals

� Anti- oxidants� Vitamin E - Tocopherol

� Vitamin C – Ascorbic acid & ascorbyl compounds

� Ferulic acid

� Superoxide dismutase

� BHT / BHA / Propyl gallate / Thio compounds

� Numerous plant extracts e.g.

� Lycopene from tomatoes

� Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) extract

� Camellia sinensis (Green tea) extract

� Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extract

� Rubus idaeus (Raspberry) leaf extract

� Salix nigra (Willow) bark extract

To keep in

good

condition


Replace lost lipids

� As skin ages the ceramide content of the SC decreases.

� Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are effective in restoring lost lipids and the barrier functions of the skin.

� Ceramides AKA Sphingosines (9 identified)

� Fatty acid = linoleic acid particularly effective

� Together with cholesterol, lamella structures are formed, which penetrate upper SC.

To keep in

good

condition


Moisturise

� There is a water- gradient from the lower levels of the skin to its surface where it evaporates as transepidermal

water loss (TEWL)

� There is a decrease in moisture content from the base

layers to the surface (70% - > 10%)

� As skin ages it loses more moisture but all skin may be subject to increased moisture loss through

environmental conditions

� Moisturising is the basic requirement for nearly all skin care products

To keep in

good

condition


Moisturise

� Select the active

� The choice of moisturising ingredients is

very wide

� Petrolatum & other oils & fats form an

occlusive film, virtually preventing TEWL

� Lanolin has moisture holding properties

and can penetrate upper SC


Moisturise

� Select the active

� Glycerin & other hygroscopic humectants attract water to themselves; with more moisture

on the skin there is a reduction in loss through evaporation

� Proteins hold moisture and are substantive to skin

� NMF duplicates the skin moisturising system

� Lamellar structures penetrate SC, restoring its

natural barrier properties


Moisturising1,2,6-Hexanetriol Chitosan Lauroyl Glycinate Lactose PEG-8

2,3-Butanediol Chitosan PCA Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyldimonium ChloridePEG-9

Acetamide MEA Cholesterol/HDI/Pullulan CopolymerLupine Amino Acids PEG-90

Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract Choline Chloride Lysine PCA Polyamino Sugar Condensate

Adenophora Stricta Root Extract Copper PCA Maltitol Polyglyceryl Sorbitol

Agarose Corn Glycerides Manganese PCA Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate

Alanyl Glutamine Diglycerin Mannitol Polyglycerylmethacrylate

Albatrellus Confluens (Mushroom) ExtractDimethyl Imidazolidinone MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk Potassium Lactate

Albumen Extract Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate Menthyl PCA Potassium PCA

Alcaligenes Polysaccharides Erythritol Methoxy PEG-10 PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether

Algae Ethoxydiglycol Oleate Methoxy PEG-100 PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether

Aloe Andongensis Extract Ethylhexyl PCA Methoxy PEG-16 PPG-24-PEG-21 Tallowaminopropylamine

Aloe Andongensis Leaf Juice Fructose Methoxy PEG-40 PPG-6-Sorbeth-245

Aloe Arborescens Leaf Protoplasts Glucamine Methyl Gluceth-10 PPG-6-Sorbeth-500

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Gluconic Acid Methyl Gluceth-20 Propylene Glycol

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide Glucosamine Orange Peel Wax Saccharide Hydrolysate

Amidinoproline Glucose Panthenol Saccharide Isomerate

Anserine Glucose Glutamate PCA Saccharomyces Lysate Extract

Arginine PCA Glucuronic Acid PEG-10 Sesame Amino Acids

Bacillus/Rice Bran Extract/Soybean Extract Ferment FiltrateGlycereth-12 PEG-10 Propylene Glycol Sodium Aspartate

Backhousia Anisata Leaf Extract Glycereth-20 PEG-100 Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate

Banksia Spinulosa Flower Extract Glycereth-26 PEG-12 Sodium Cocoyl Lactylate

Benzyl Hyaluronate Glycereth-7 PEG-135 Sodium Glucuronate

Bidens Pilosa Extract Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate PEG-14 Sodium Lactate

Bifida Ferment Extract Glycerin PEG-15 Butanediol Sodium PCA

Bifida/Soybean Extract Ferment Glycol PEG-16 Sorbeth-20

Bis-hydroxyethyl Tocopherylsuccinoylamido HydroxypropaneHexacosyl Glycol PEG-18 Sorbeth-30

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl SilaneHydrogenated Honey PEG-180 Sorbeth-40

Bittern Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate PEG-2 Lactamide Sorbeth-6

Bixa Orellana Seed Oil Hydrolyzed Corn Starch PEG-20 Sorbitol

Black Strap Powder Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PEG-20 Acetate CopolymerPEG-200 Sucrose

Butyl Ethyl Propanediol Hydroxyethyl Sorbitol PEG-240 TEA-Lactate

C30-45 Alkyl Methicone Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey PEG-32 TEA-PCA

Calcium Fructoborate Inositol PEG-4 Trehalose Dihydrate

Calcium PCA Lactamide MEA PEG-40 Urea

Caprylyl Glycol/Glycerin/Polyacrylic Acid CopolymerLactamidopropyl Trimonium ChloridePEG-55 Urea-D-Glucuronic Acid

Carnitine HCI Lactic Acid PEG-6 Xylitol

Caryocar Coriaceum Seed Oil PEG-60 Xylitylglucoside

Cellulose Succinate PEG-75 Yeast Polysaccharides


Moisturise

Narrowing the choice

� The brief

� Target skin type & area of application

� Claims

� The cost

� Petrolatum / glycerin etc are cheap

� Ceramides / yeast ferments etc are expensive

� Botanicals have consumer appeal


Moisturise

Narrowing the choice

� The pack form

� Spray / bottle / tube / jar

� The vehicle

� Gel / lotion / cream

� Other actives

� Multi-functional


Moisturise


� If a gel

� What thickening system?

� Carbomers / cellulose / mineral / alginates?

� pH restraints?

� Clarity required?

� Oils & Fragrance create problems

� Compatibility issues?


Moisturise


� If a gel

� What thickening system?

� Exposed to light?

� Photo-degradation

� Thinning and/or discolouration

� Preservative system?

� Mixing requirements?

� Heating / cooling / high shear / slow

mixing


Moisturise


� Select gel form

� Carbomer

� pH 5.5 - 7.5

� No electrolytes

� Water- soluble actives

� Chelate ions

� Protect against UV

� Cold mixing possible

� High shear not required


Moisturising gel

� Carbomer based

� Chelate + UV Absorber (EDTA2Na +B4)

+ Neutraliser (e.g. NaOH or TEA or AMP)

+ Preservative system (e.g. Parabens)

� Humectant (e.g. Glycerin or PG or Sorbitol)

� Active e.g.

� Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

� Hydrolysed wheat protein


Moisturise

� Narrowing the choice� If a lotion

� What emulsifying system?

� Anionic / cationic / non- ionic

� w/o or o/w or w/Si/w

� pH restraints?


� Fragrance / polar & non- polar oils

� Stability


� Mixing requirements

� Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing


Moisturise


� If a cream


� Anionic / cationic / non- ionic

� w/o or o/w or w/Si/w

� pH restraints?


� Stability

� Use of hydrocolloid


� Mixing requirements

� Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing


Moisturising emulsions

� Aqueous Phase

� Oil phase

� Emulsifier system

� Rheological modifier

� Preservative system

� Active ingredients

� Fragrance



� Aqueous Phase

� Humectant / Moisturiser – CTFA makes no difference but JW thinks of humectants as hygroscopic materials used as much to keep the product moist as for moisturising skin.

� Humectants

� Glycerin / Sorbitol / Propylene glycol / Polyethylene glycol (PEG) & various sugars

� Moisturisers

� Innumerable – 398 from Acetamide MEA to ZymomonasFerment Extract in CTFA Dictionary, including sea water!

� Actives

� Most actives are water-soluble

� Preservative system


Cascading theory

means select a

number of emollients

so that the sensorial

feel is spread

throughout the time

of application.

Cosmetics should feel

good!

Oil Phase: Selecting the emollients: Cognis


Size of circles: proportional to spreadability

Color of circles: polar non-polar

Oil Phase: Selecting the emollients: DegussaPP = pour point, CP = cloud

point

surface tension [mN/m]

viscosity [mPas]17

2 10 100

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

33

25

21

19

2

1

45 6

7

8

129

13

14

1718

15

16

310

20

11

22

2423

No. INCI Name PP (CP) [°C]

1 Cyclopentasiloxane <-30

2 Diethylhexylcarbonate <-30

3 Isopropyl Myristate 8

4 Hexyl Laurate -11 (-2)

5 Isopropyl Palmitate 14

6

7

Decyl Cocoate 16

8

Ethylhexyl Palmitate 1

9

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate -6

10

Ethylhexyl Stearate 8

11

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 0 (2)

12 -6 (4)

13 Cetearyl Isononanoate 9 (12)

14 Isocetyl Palmitate 0

15 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride -4

16 Cetyl Dimethione 14 (18)

17 0 (3)

18

PPG-3 Myristyl Ether

-19

19Mineral Oil

-30 (-20)

20

Octyldodecanol

< -30

21 -11 (-1)

22

Avocado Oil

0 (13)

23

PPG-11 Stearyl Ether

< -3024

-5Cetyl Dimethione

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate -2 (5)

Decyl Oleate

Triisostearin

25

Dimethicone

< -30PPG-14 Butyl Ether

light, freshlight, fresh

caring, rich



� Oil Phase

� Watch out for

� Rancidity

� Oil phase incompatibilities e.g.

� Waxes crystallising

� Dimethicone / Mineral oil

� Melt & mix oil phase together; is it clear? Does

it stay homogenous when cooled?

� Dragging / greasiness / odours




� Anionic

� o/w

� More commonly associated with cleansing surfactants

� SLS - irritant

� TEA-Stearate – OK for cleansers / not leave-on

� Potassium cetyl phosphate – forms liquid

crystals, worth attention




� Cationic� w/o

� More commonly associated with hair conditioning

� Irritancy concerns

� However at least one material supplier is promoting their use with the following claims:-

� Cationic O/W emulsifier based on renewable raw materials with excellent emulsifying properties



� What emulsifying system?� Cationic� Excellent emulsification behaviour� Light emulsions, matte finish

� Powdery, smooth and dry skin feel after application

� Low greasiness, stickiness or tack� Inherent moisturisation� Substantive to skin

� Extraordinary and unique skin feel




� Non-ionic

� o/w or w/o

� Selection using HLB system possible

� Sorbitan esters / ethoxylated pair

� e.g. Sorbitan stearate / Polysorbate- 20

� Alkoxylated alcohols

� e.g. Ceteareth- 20

� But move against ethoxylates!




� Recent introductions of sucrose esters and

understanding the benefits of liquid crystal formation is driving new formulations



� Benefits of liquid crystal formation

Water, fatty acids,

cholesterol,

triglycerides and

ceramides form the

lamellar (layered) gel-

like lipid system of the

horny layer.



� Non-ionic liquid crystal forming emulsifiers

� Cetearyl glucoside

� Cetearyl olivate / Sorbitan olivate

� Sucrose cocoate / Sorbitan stearate

� Sorbitan stearate / Sorbityl laurate

� Cetearyl polyglucoside

� Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate

� Cetearyl polyglucoside / polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate



� Liquid crystals are states of matter that exist in between the solid and the ordinary liquid phase. The main characteristic of the phase is the existence of partial ordering (positional and orientational) like that of the crystal phase but the phase has the ability to flow like a liquid.



� Oil Phase

� Refer to Cognis cascading theory of emollients

� Degussa selection chart

� Cyclopentasiloxane stops soaping up

� Vegetable oils are polar (& popular)

� Capric/caprylic triglyceride is good stuff

� Cetyl or cetearyl alcohol and/or glyceryl

stearate helps stabilise LC structures



� Rheology modifier� Xanthan gum

� Minerals – e.g. Bentonite / Veegum / Laponite

� Carbomer

� Acrylates copolymer

� Sclerotium Gum

� Mannan

� Modified starch

� Gum tragacanth

� Alginates

� Silica

� Cellulose derivatives



•Preservative system

•Affected by other ingredients

•pH

•Market trends

•Active ingredients

•Affected by marketing claims

•Other ingredients

•pH

•Fragrance

•No Fragrance / Perfume / Essential Oils

•Affected by named allergens


Moisturising emulsions: possible formulation

7.00% Caprylic/capric triglyceride

2.50% Cetearyl alcohol

5.00% Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet almond) oil

1.50% Cyclopentasiloxane

0.01% Ceramide

0.10% Tocopherol

Aqua (Water) to 100%

0.08% Disodium EDTA

1.50% Cetearyl polyglucoside (emulsifier)

0.20% Xanthan gum

0.50% Niacinamide

5.00% Glycerin

1.00% Sodium PCa

3.00% Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

2.00% Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extract

Preservatives / Fragrance / pH adjusters


DLC Question

A major brand of moisturising lotion lists its

ingredients as � Aqua, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Paraffinum

liquidum, Petrolatum, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl

Hydroxystearate, Stearic Acid, Steareth 100,

Dimethicone, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Fragrance,

Potassium Hydroxide, DMDM Hydantoin,

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Tetrasodium

EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Red 4.


DLC Question

Claims are:-

� Softens and smoothes for radiant skin. � Light, Non- Greasy Formula.

� Dermatologist Tested. � Non- Comedogenic (Won't Clog Pores).

� Moisturizes- Penetrates quickly, providing your skin with immediate surge of active moisture to soothe dryness without greasy feel.

� Improves- Helps your skin replenish its own essential fluids so skin is softer, smoother and more supple.

� Restores- Works like the essential fluids abundant in young skin to help restore skin to its natural beauty and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.


DLC Question

� Using your knowledge of ingredients briefly describe the function of each ingredient in this product, give your best guess for the % by weight of the individual ingredients and in no more than 100 words write a label description of the properties of this product aimed to sell it to a consumer.


DLC Question

Octyldodecyl Myristate

Fragrance

Potassium Hydroxide

DMDM Hydantoin

Iodopropynyl

Butylcarbamate

Tetrasodium EDTA

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl

Acrylate Crosspolymer

Carbomer

Red 4

Aqua

Cetyl Palmitate

Glycerin

Paraffinum liquidum

Petrolatum

Cetyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Hydroxystearate

Stearic Acid

Steareth 100

Dimethicone


DLC Question

� It is your task as head of product development to

reformulate this product in order to make strong

moisturising claims and to avoid using materials

that are no longer perceived as appealing to

consumers. There are no financial restraints on

the material costs.

� Finally, list the reformulated product ingredients

in descending order of concentration, show their

approximate % in the new formula and rewrite

the label copy to appeal to the target consumer.


If you get it right!


And if you get it wrong!

A basic guide to cosmetic formulation

Healthcare

Transcript of A basic guide to cosmetic formulation