7post magazine #5 men issue
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Transcript of 7post magazine #5 men issue
IMPR
IMÉ E
N FRA
NCE,
PRIX
FRAN
CE 7€
, vEN
dREd
I 9 ju
IllEt
2015
.
Rebel Youth bYellen von unweRth
7PostMAgAzINECultuRE, FAsHIoN & lIFEstYlE men IssuE #2
L E N O U V E A U P A R F U M D E D I O R
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L E N O U V E A U P A R F U M D E D I O R
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L E N O U V E A U P A R F U M D E D I O R
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L E N O U V E A U P A R F U M D E D I O R
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Striped waiStcoat, denim jacket, Saint Laurent / t-Shirt, midnight medothS / ring, harpo / Scarf, pauL Smith.
BlABlABlA BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLAB-LA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLAB-LA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLAB-LA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLAB-LA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLAB-LA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLAB-LA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLAB-LA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLAB-LA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLAB-LABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA / BLABLABLA
BEst oR NotHINg...
5
Founders & ChieF editors Jean-Baptiste pauchard & prosper Keating
Art direCtorJean-Baptiste pauchard
FAshion editordavina LuBeLsKi
new MediA direCtorsinisha nisevic
ContributorseLLen von unwerth, +KarLheinz weinBerger, +henry grant
GrAphiC desiGnerMaëLa Boëdec-craMesniL de LaLeu
retouChinGMarine woehL
ContributinG editorMéLanie canard
oriGinAl soundtrACkdJ agoria
Junior FAshion editorMathiLde regnauLt
Junior FAshion AssistAntsaLex KessLer, saBry cheLBi
editoriAl AssistAnt ondine charLesworth
AssistAnt Art direCtor vaLeria cervantes
produCer los AnGelestatJana naJdanovic
distribution CoordinAtor antoine dorLand
THANKS
Bruce hacKney/KarLheinz weinBerger estate, FaBien giraud/www.addict-MotorcycLe.coM, caroLine greyL
pAris oFFiCe48Bis rue de rivoLi75004 paris - France
london oFFiCe43 casteLnau Mansions, casteLnau,London sw13 9Qu - united KingdoM
new York oFFiCe347 west 36th street, suite 1100new yorK, new yorK 10018 - usa
los AnGeles oFFiCe1001 Main street, venice Los angeLes ca 90291 - usa
produCtionhighway production Ltd
distributionips & export press
president & publishinG direCtorJean-Baptiste pauchard7 post Magazine highway production Ltd43 casteLnau Mansions, casteLnau,London sw13 9Qu - united KingdoM coMpany n° 085992423, vat n° 166 6789 50
reFerenCe shAreholderBruno Ledoux hoLding Media(BLhM)sarL
©2015. aLL rights reserved. no part oF this puBLication May Be reproduced in whoLe or part without perMission FroM the puBLishers. the views expressed in 7post Magazine are those oF the respective contriButors, and are not necessariLy shared By the Magazine or its staFF. printed bY Groupe riCCobono
issn 2427-5042n° de CoMMission pAritAire des publiCAtions et AGenCes presse : 1219 u 92564
4 BlABlABlA
7 ContentS
9 Rebel Youth 11:00 AM
19 Rebel Youth 12:34 PM
31 Rebel Youth 02:42 PM
47 Rebel Youth 04:38 PM
65 Rebel Youth 07:12 PM
77 doCuMENtINg REBEl YoutH
CoNtENtsCONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON-TENTS / CONTENTS / CONTENTS / CON
7
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downLoad iwaY app for more excLuSiVe content
prosper: perSonaL cLothing. DQWKRQ\: jacket and jeanS, apriL 77 / Leather jacket, hippY market / Shirt, Brioni / neckLace, darY’S / BeLt, richard gampeL. HGHQ� jacket, catherine maLandrino / top, pauLe ka / Skirt, Zadig & VoLtaire / hair cLip, h&m / ShoeS, BLugirL��UpP\� motorcYcLe jacket, kiLLiwatch / t-Shirt, american appareL / jeanS, LeVi’S / ringS, StYLiSt own / SockS, faLke / ShoeS, aLden. DOIRQVR��Striped waiStcoat, denim jacket, Saint Laurent / t-Shirt, midnight methodS / ring, harpo / Scarf and ShoeS, pauL Smith. DXJXVWLQ: jacket, pauL Smith / t-Shirt, gap / trouSerS, BaLLY / SuSpenderS, american appareL / BeLt, Zadig & VoLtaire / SockS, faLke / ShoeS, dr marten’S. ORXLV��jacket and t-Shirt, tommY hiLfiger / jeanS, marc jacoBS / Locket, darY’S / BeLt, faith connexion.
REBEl YoutH11:00 AM
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byEllEN voN uNwERtH
9
prosper: perSonaL cLothing. DQWKRQ\: jacket and jeanS, apriL 77 / Leather jacket, hippY market / Shirt, Brioni / neckLace, darY’S / BeLt, richard gampeL. HGHQ� jacket, catherine maLandrino / top, pauLe ka / Skirt, Zadig & VoLtaire / hair cLip, h&m / ShoeS, BLugirL��UpP\� motorcYcLe jacket, kiLLiwatch / t-Shirt, american appareL / jeanS, LeVi’S / ringS, StYLiSt own / SockS, faLke / ShoeS, aLden. DOIRQVR��Striped waiStcoat, denim jacket, Saint Laurent / t-Shirt, midnight methodS / ring, harpo / Scarf and ShoeS, pauL Smith. DXJXVWLQ: jacket, pauL Smith / t-Shirt, gap / trouSerS, BaLLY / SuSpenderS, american appareL / BeLt, Zadig & VoLtaire / SockS, faLke / ShoeS, dr marten’S. ORXLV��jacket and t-Shirt, tommY hiLfiger / jeanS, marc jacoBS / Locket, darY’S / BeLt, faith connexion.
OHIW: jacket, catherine maLandrino / top, pauLe ka / Skirt, Zadig & VoLtaire / hair cLip, h&m / ShoeS, BLugirL. right: jacket and jeanS, apriL 77 / Leather jacket, hippY market / Shirt, Brioni / neckLace, darY’S / BeLt, richard gampeL / ShoeS, repetto.
DOIRQVR��Stripe d waiStcoat, denim jacket, Saint Laurent / Scarf, pauL Smith. DQWKRQ\: jacket and jeanS, apriL 77 / Leather jacket, hippY market / Shirt, Brioni / neckLace, darY’S / BeLt, richard gampeL. DXJXVWLQ: jacket, pauL Smith / t-Shirt, gap/ trouSerS, BaLLY / SuSpenderS, american appareL / BeLt, Zadig & VoLtaire. HGHQ� jacket,catherine maLandrino / top, pauLe ka / Skirt, Zadig & VoLtaire / hair cLip, h&m��ORXLV��jacket and t-Shirt, tommY hiLfiger / jeanS, marc jacoBS / BeLt, faith connexion.
DOIRQVR��Stripe d waiStcoat, denim jacket, Saint Laurent / Scarf, pauL Smith. DQWKRQ\: jacket and jeanS, apriL 77 / Leather jacket, hippY market / Shirt, Brioni / neckLace, darY’S / BeLt, richard gampeL. DXJXVWLQ: jacket, pauL Smith / t-Shirt, gap/ trouSerS, BaLLY / SuSpenderS, american appareL / BeLt, Zadig & VoLtaire. HGHQ� jacket,catherine maLandrino / top, pauLe ka / Skirt, Zadig & VoLtaire / hair cLip, h&m��ORXLV��jacket and t-Shirt, tommY hiLfiger / jeanS, marc jacoBS / BeLt, faith connexion.
OHIW��DOIRQVR��Striped waiStcoat, denim jacket, Saint Laurent / t-Shirt, midnight methodS / ring, harpo / Scarf, pauL Smith.�DQWKRQ\: jacket and jeanS, apriL 77 / Leather jacket, hippY market / Shirt, Brioni / neckLace, darY’S / BeLt, richard gampeL. HGHQ��Skirt, Zadig & VoLtaire / ShoeS, BLugirL. right: pantieS, princeSSe tam tam / Skirt, Zadig & VoLtaire / ShoeS, BLugirL.
HGHQ� jacket, catherine maLandrino / top, pauLe ka / Skirt, Zadig & VoLtaire / hair cLip, h&m / ShoeS, BLugirL.
REBEl YoutH12:34 PM
rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL
19
UpP\� motorcYcLe jacket, kiLLiwatch / t-Shirt, american appareL / jeanS, LeViS / ringS, StYLiSt own.
motorcYcLe jacket, Schott / Vintage Shirt, YVeS Saint Laurent (didier Ludot) / Skirt, agnèS B. / hair cLip, h&m / earringS, jean-pauL gauLtier / StiLettoS, chriStian LouBoutin.
motorcYcLe jacket, Schott / Vintage Shirt, YVeS Saint Laurent (didier Ludot) / Skirt, agnèS B. / hair cLip, h&m / earringS, jean-pauL gauLtier / StiLettoS, chriStian LouBoutin.
OHIW��UpP\��Shirt, rrL BY raLph Lauren / jeanS, LeVi’S / SuSpenderS, american appareL / ringS, StYLiSt own / SockS, faLke / ShoeS, aLden.�DOIRQVR��jacket, anne Sophie madSen / t-Shirt, drieS Van noten / jeanS, american appareL / Scarf, the koopLeS / ring, harpo / BeLt, Saint Laurent / ShoeS, pauL Smith. DXJXVWLQ��motorcYcLe jacket, tommY hiLfiger / Shirt, agnèS B. / trouSerS, BaLLY. ORXLV��jacket, dieSeL / t-Shirt, kiLLiwatch / jeanS, apriL 77.right: motorcYcLe jacket, Schott / Vintage Shirt, YVeS Saint Laurent (didier Ludot) / Skirt, agnèS B. / hair cLip, h&m / earringS, jean-pauL gauLtier / ShoeS, waLter Steiger
UpP\��Shirt, rrL BY raLph Lauren / jeanS, LeVi’S / SuSpenderS, american appareL.�ORXLV��jacket, dieSeL / t-Shirt, kiLLiwatch / jeanS, apriL 77 / Locket, darY’S. DOIRQVR��jacket, anne Sophie madSen / t-Shirt, drieS Van noten / jeanS, american appareL / Scarf, the koopLeS.�DQWKRQ\��t-Shirt, midnight methodS / Shirt, drieS Van noten / jeanS, apriL 77 / neckLace, darY’S / SuSpenderS, american appareL / BeLt, richard gampeL. HGHQ� motorcYcLe jacket, Schott / Vintage Shirt, YVeS Saint Laurent (didier Ludot) / Skirt, agnèS B. / hair cLip, h&m / earringS, jean-pauL gauLtier / StiLettoS, chriStian LouBoutin.
REBEl YoutH02:42 PM
rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL yOuTh / rEBEL
31
UpP\��Shirt, rrL BY raLph Lauren / ringS, StYLiSt own. HGHQ��723��7+(�.223/(6���6+2576��3+</e$���6&$5)��+0���681*/$66(6��0,8�0,8�(<(:($5���%(/7��0$,621�%2,1(7���6+2(6��3,(55(�+$5'<�
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DOIRQVR��motorcYcLe jacket, Schott / Shirt and tie, agnèS B. / Leather trouSerS, aLexandre Vauthier / BeLt, Saint Laurent / ring, harpo. HGHQ��723��3+</e$ / jeanS, apriL 77 / hair cLip, h&m / Scarf, agnèS B. / LunetteS, prada eYewear / gLoVeS, agneLLe / BeLt, richard gampeL. DXJXVWLQ��Shirt, agnèS B. / trouSerS, BaLLY / SuSpenderS, american appareL / BeLt, Zadig & VoLtaire. UpP\��VarSitY jacket, kiLLiwatch / Shop, american appareL / jeanS, LeVi’S.
DOIRQVR��motorcYcLe jacket, Schott / Shirt and tie, agnèS B. / Leather trouSerS, aLexandre Vauthier / BeLt, Saint Laurent / ring, harpo. HGHQ��723��3+</e$ / jeanS, apriL 77 / hair cLip, h&m / Scarf, agnèS B. / LunetteS, prada eYewear / gLoVeS, agneLLe / BeLt, richard gampeL. DQWKRQ\��-acket and jeanS, apriL 77 / Shirt, agnèS B. / Scarf, pauL Smith / BeLt, richard gampeL. UpP\��VarSitY jacket, kiLLiwatch / Shop, american appareL / jeanS, LeVi’S.
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REBEl YoutH07:12 PM
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65
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jetS and jaguarS, Lake BieL, St. peterSinSeL 1963 romeo (werner Berger), Leader of the reVenger gang, Zurich 1962
Zurich c.1961 Lake BieL, St. peterSinSeL 1963
photographS reproduced BY kind permiSSion of the karLheinZ weinBerger eState
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77
by PRosPER KEAtINg
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3URVSHU�.HDWLQJ�When we were planning this shoot, you mentioned being inspired, partly, by the Zürich photographer Karlheinz Weinberger and his photos of the ‘halbstarke’, of Swiss 5RFNHUV�RYHU�¿IW\�years ago.(OOHQ�YRQ�8QZHUWK�I think they’re just extraordinary pictures. you don’t see people looking like this anywhere else. he went around with them but he also put up a little set in his sitting room, where they posed for portraits. And the pictures where they are all, like, hanging out and having drinks... pk:Would you say it’s fair to describe your images as Zürich-meets-hamburg nineteen-sixty-two? evu:If you felt that, it’s interesting! But we also did the mode of today. It’s the inspiration of yesterday but it’s always... Well, you know, you always get inspired by something. pk:So, you’d say it’s a homage to yesterday but in a very modern way. It’s today. We didn’t try to recreate the early ‘sixties. We just recreated a vibe.evu:yeah. Exactly. pk: Ellen von unwerth, thank you.
on the Limmat, Zürich 1962 – BY kind permiSSion of the karLheinZ weinBerger eState
nutS’n’BoLtS, Zurich c.1962 – BY kind permiSSion of the karLheinZ weinBerger eState
There were other, unsung photographers out there too, quietly documenting rebel youth, like the late henry Grant, an unmarried bank manager from London who hung around venues frequented by British Leatherboys and rockers LQ� WKH� ODWH� µ¿IWLHV� DQG� HDUO\� µVL[WLHV��creating a wonderful archive of black and white and colour images of what these kids really looked like when nobody else cared. Like his contemporary Weinberger, Grant was an amateur photographer and his work was almost completely unknown before Johnny Stuart published some of Grant’s images in his 1986 book ‘rockers’.
Grant and Weinberger were amateur photographers. however, Weinberger wasn’t a bank manager. he was a Zürich warehouseman who led a double life taking photographs for the underground homosexual magazine ‘Der Kreise’. In the 1970s and 1980s, he would emerge from the closet, unlike Grant, whose preferences were obvious only to those sensitive enough to know. Whereas Grant’s images tended to show girls as passengers and accessories, Weinberger treated them equally, as the touching portraits shot on a makeshift set in his apartment show.
Along with British and French rockers, German and Swiss-German youth like the Zürich ‘halbstarke’ whom Weinberger befriended took American denim and leather street style and made it their own, in their own way, as Weinberger’s photographs show. Some of his ‘halbstarke’ friends called their gang ‘The Jets’ in a rather touching nod to the New york gang ranged against the Puerto ricans in the 1961 musical ‘West Side Story’. They were nonetheless socially alienated kids
tR�XV�WRGD\��XQIXUOLQJ�D�SLUDWH�ÀDJ�on a passenger ferry might seem rather tame but on a Swiss passenger ferry in the early 1960s? you don’t need me to tell you how respectable Swiss people reacted. Just look at Karlheinz Weinberger’s wonderful photograph and the faces of the other passengers, trying hard to pretend it isn’t happening.
Documenting rebellious youth and juvenile delinquency through books, photographs and ¿OP� LV� D� SRVWZDU� SKHQRPHQRQ�� 7KH� %ULWLVK�novel ‘Brighton rock’, published by Graham Greene in 1938, could be described as a seminal work in this respect although earlier writers like Charles Dickens and Mark Twain should not be forgotten. James Farrell’s American anti-hero Studs Lonigan presented a stark insight into the realities of life for teenagers in the poorer districts of American cities in the 1920s and 1930s.
+RZHYHU��WKHVH�VWRULHV�ZHUH�¿FWLRQDO�UDWKHU�than documentary. If you want to see what the boys who inspired Pinkie and Studs looked like, study the police mugshots of teenagers executed for murder in the 1930s in Britain and the united States. Writers like Greene and Farrell gave them voices, for those who read the books, as did richard $WWHQERURXJK¶V� FKLOOLQJ� ¿OP� SHUVRQL¿FDWLRQ�of the sociopathic Pinky in 1947. Studs Lonigan had to wait until 1960 but the Jay Lerner’s adaptation is unremarkable apart from an early Jack Nicholson performance as Weary riley.
It was not until the aftermath of the Second World War, in the 1950s, with fatherless and orphaned children coming of age, that photographers and other social documentarists started focusing on the real thing. We touch the surface when we look at Don McCullin’s Teddy Boys and Ken russell’s Teddy Girls of the 1950s and, across the Atlantic, Danny Lyon’s outlaw bikers of the 1960s. McCullin EHFDPH�D�ZDU�UHSRUWHU��5XVVHOO�D�¿OP�GLUHFWRU�and Lyon now wishes he was as well known for his other work. At least Lyon actually joined the Outlaws MC whereas hunter S. Thompson just hung around with the hells Angels, and ended up getting a well-deserved beating.
trip oVer to St. peterSinSeL, Lake BieL, 1964 – BY kind permiSSion of the karLheinZ weinBerger eState
with darker pasts than the solid citizens doggedly ignoring them in the ferry image.
The rock’n’roll thing was less shocking in West Germany than in Switzerland. Germany had been through the liberalism and libertinism of the Weimar era, the year Zero effect of the 1945 defeat and the renaissance of WKH�$GHQDXHU�\HDUV��¿QDQFLDOO\�XQGHUZULWWHQ�by the united States. There was also an anti-authoritarian reaction in West Germany against the Nazi era and rehabilitation of middle and low-ranking Nazis to run the NATO buffer state known as the German Federal republic. The 1970s would see this evolve into the murderous violence of the red Army Faction, alias the Baader-Meinhof Gang, but in the late 1950s and early 1960s, cities like hamburg and West Berlin nurtured a more peaceful kind of youth revolution, along the lines of their Swiss-German ‘halbstarke’ cousins.
For many British r’n’B bands, a season or two in hamburg was an essential part of their
evolution, The Beatles being the most famous case in point. hamburg took post-rockabilly r’n’B musicians like The Beatles in and turned them back out as Mods and Tony Boys, the name given to those who dressed like Italians with Tony Curtis quiffs. According to legend, the quiffs were killed off after Stuart Sutcliffe’s German girlfriend, artist-cum-photographer Astrid Kirchherr washed the Brylcreem out of his hair, dressed him in a weird suit and gave him a pudding basin haircut.
Some rockers kept the faith. Others grew long hair and beards, like some of the boys photographed by Weinberger, who later formed a Swiss chapter of the hells Angels Motorcycle Club. Like the British leatherboys, the ‘halbstarke’ style was in a league of its own, as the photos kindly supplied by Bruce hackney, co-editor of the 2011 book ‘rebel youth’, remind us. Ellen von unwerth set out to evoke the vibe that fascinated Karlheinz Weinberger and that moment in time when the 1960s bade ‘abschiedgruß’ to the 1950s.
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