6WEST COUNTRY LIFE SATURDAY JUNE 22 2013 WCL-E01-S2 … · 2019. 1. 22. · the kitchen3 The number...
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SATURDAY JUNE 22 2013 WEST COUNTRY LIFE 7 WCL-E01-S2 6 WEST COUNTRY LIFE SATURDAY JUNE 22 2013 WCL-E01-S2 people Anyone who knows about food knows that Leiths School of Food and Wine is the place to learn how to cook. And anyone who knows about this legendary London-based culinary in- stitution knows that while the sign above the door is a reference to the name of its founder, Pru Leith, the success of the business also owes much to Caroline Waldegrave. She had been head cook at Pru Leith’s party catering company and was appointed principal of the newly opened Leiths School of Food and Wine in 1975 when she was just 23 and, as Pru has famously observed, “looked no older than the students”. She went on to become managing director, and then in 1994 jointly bought the school with Sir Christoph- er Bland, the former chairman of British Telecom. While Caroline was spending her working days surrounded by stu- dents in aprons with “Leiths” em- blazoned across them, and co-writing such works as Leiths Cookery Bible, she was also supporting the political career of her husband, the Conservat- ive MP William Waldegrave – now Baron Waldegrave of North Hill, after becoming a life peer – as well as bringing up their four children. So when Caroline – or, to use her correct title, Baroness Waldegrave of North Hill – delves into a neatly folded pile of kitchen whites and begins to unfurl one of the aprons that will be worn by students at the new cookery school she is opening at her family home in Somerset, the wording on the front is something of a surprise. The green embroidery does not spell out the name “Waldegrave”, as some might expect. Instead, there is an image of a tree and the word “Dudwell”. From the top, Caroline in her cookery school dining area; the exterior; and playing snooker. Students will also be able to indulge in other activities such as tennis, croquet or swimming people My aim is to make cooking enjoyable, – to cook in a way that is fun Caroline Waldegrave was awarded an OBE for her achievements in running Leiths School of Food and Wine. However, she yearned to be teaching cookery – and soon she will be doing that in a new venture at her Somerset home. Suzanne Savill pays a visit. Pictures by Fran Stothard In keeping with the lack of ego that meant Caroline remained largely in the background while playing a key managerial role at Leiths, she has not seized the chance finally to have a business bearing her own name. In- stead, she has called her new venture Dudwell School. Didn’t she want to take the oppor- tunity to see her own name above the door – or at least on the aprons – now that she has set up her own cookery school? “I much prefer Dudwell as it’s the name of the house and I love it,” says Caroline, a Cordon Bleu-trained cook, who will begin teaching her first intake of students in August. Then she adds with a smile: “I hope that I’m going to establish Dudwell as a name.” It is an aim that she will surely achieve, judging by the experience of a quick tour of Dudwell School – which has been set up in previously derelict barns at Caroline’s family home, Dudwell Field Farm, on the outskirts of the village of Chewton Mendip, which is part of the Walde- grave Estate that was given to Sir Edward Waldegrave in 1553 by Queen Mary I. It is a very different scale of opera- tions to Leiths, where 96 students can be taught in four rooms. Caroline will be providing personal tuition to just eight students at a time in the spa- cious white-tiled kitchen with stain- less steel work units in the former barn, beside which is a light-filled garden room with a huge dining table, and bedrooms above. “I so love teaching cooking and getting to know people and having fun, but I had to stop teaching to concentrate on the management side of things at Leith’s,” says Caroline, Baker Edd Kimber certainly knows how to inspire greatness in the kit- chen. After chatting to him, I had a go at making his celebrated salted caramel brownies. Although I found it trickier than my normal brownie recipe, the fin- ished result was so delicious that it made all the work worth it. Since winning the first Great Brit- ish Bake Off three years ago, Edd’s life has changed beyond recognition and he has joined the echelons of celebrity British chefs. It does help that almost everyone loves cake and biscuits and his re- cipes are to die for. A glance through his website reveals a line-up of treats that wouldn’t look out of place in Willy Wonka’s factory. Berry ice pops, strawberry rhubarb lemonade, cinnamon rolls and pistachio and rose gelato; it’s enough to get you dusting off the three-tiered cake stand and turning the Aga to high. From debt collector to winning chef – meet baker boy Edd who was awarded an OBE in 2000 for services to the catering industry. “My whole aim in starting up Dud- well School is to make cooking enjoy- able. I want to show people how to cook in a way that is fun. “Everyone will be able to take home their own book of recipes from the course. All the recipes are ones I think are essential. If you can master them you should be able to feel confid- ent in the kitchen.” As well as enjoying themselves while learning in the kitchen, those who enrol upon Caroline’s five-day courses – aimed primarily at those with little cookery experience – will also be able to spend the afternoons playing tennis, croquet, badminton, and bridge, or swimming in the pool beside the cookery school, or even playing snooker on a full-size table which was bought because Caroline is a keen player. “I love snooker,” she declares, as she leans over a cue and takes aim at a ball. She is wearing blue denim jeans and white trainers, and could easily pass for a decade or two young- er than her 60 years. How has she stayed so slim, after spending her career surrounded by food? “I do a lot of exercise,” she replies. “I think it’s important to make some time for yourself.” Frankly, it is hard to work out how Caroline has time to manage to do even a few sit-ups. She is still on the board at Leiths ‘Everyone will be able to take home their own book of recipes from the course. If you can master them you should be able to feel confident in the kitchen’ The number of students each of Caroline’s cookery courses is open to 8 even though she is no longer a share- holder, after selling her shares in 2010, following the appointment in 2009 of her husband William as pro- vost of Eton College, a role in which he is head of the governing body of the school which he once attended. Caroline teaches cookery to the boys at Eton College, and also works as a psychotherapist. Other involve- ments are her family’s organic farm, and also a freehold pub called The Barley Mow, just off Baker Street in central London, which the family bought last year. “It dates back to 1791, and has tiny cubicles that were used for pawn- broking. It sells simple pub food, and our three youngest are living above it,” says Caroline, whose children are Katie, 32, who is married; Liza, 29; Jamie, 28; and Harriet, 26. She goes on to explain that Dudwell School will only be running for seven weeks a year, in summer, winter and Easter, as that is all she asked for when applying for planning permis- sion to convert the barns, which were already in a derelict state 24 years ago when Caroline and William bought Dudwell Field Farm from William’s elder brother James, the 13th Earl Waldegrave. Amid rows of school photos and family photos covering the walls of the flagstone-floored entrance hall of Dudwell Field Farm are some aerial photographs of the farm back in the mid-Seventies, with huge functional metal barns alongside and dilapid- ated stone barns behind them. “When we moved in 24 years ago, our main concern was getting work done on the house, so although we got those barns demolished we never got round to restoring the original stone bar ns,” says Caroline. “I had it in the back of my head for a while that I wanted to set up a cookery school in the barns. But it has taken a long time to do it, as even since I decided to go ahead with the work it has required detailed planning permission and extensive building work, including underpin- ning. “I love a project, and setting up Dudwell School has been a huge one. I’m so pleased to see it all coming together at last.” For information on cookery courses at Dudwell School email bookings@ dudwellschool.com, call 07860 123 827 or go to www.dudwellschool.com Edd Kimber, who was inspired by the baking of his mother and grandmother, was the first Bake Off winner Since impressing Paul Hollywood and Mary Berry with his baking skills, Edd’s career in the kitchen has taken off dramatically. Hard to believe then that, as a young man fresh out of school, he was turned down by his local catering college for a place on its course. “I have baked since I was a child when we used to do it to occupy ourselves,” said Edd, 27. Thankfully, he wasn’t put off by this initial rejection and decided to teach himself instead. “As a child my mum and grand- mother were great bakers and used to bake as part of their daily chores. “At first I only did it now and again as a hobby but when I was working I started doing it as a bit of a relief from the daily job and it became a bit of an obsession.” His first job as a debt collector for a bank was about as different as you can get from baking and Edd admits he loathed it. “It was the best day ever when I handed in my notice. There was no way I was staying there after I won the Great British Bake Off.” Now much of his time when he’s not baking is spent talking or writing about baking. His website has a blog and lots of recipes for people to try out. He appears regularly on tele- vision, has a couple of cookbooks to his name and shares his talent and tips with people in food roadshows and events. And when he finally gets to relax he still finds himself reaching for his apron and wooden spoon. “My favourite things to make when I want to relax are chocolate chip cookies. You just can’t beat them,” he said. Caroline Waldegrave’s picturesque home in Chewton Mendip that doubles as a cookery school; Caroline in the kitchen, main image right Helen Blow talks to Edd Kimber, the winner of the first Great British Bake Off, following his appearance at Cheltenham’s Food and Drink Festival
Transcript of 6WEST COUNTRY LIFE SATURDAY JUNE 22 2013 WCL-E01-S2 … · 2019. 1. 22. · the kitchen3 The number...
SATURDAY JUNE 22 2013 WEST COUNTRY LIFE 7WCL-E01-S26 WEST COUNTRY LIFE SATURDAY JUNE 22 2013 WCL-E01-S2
people
Anyone who knows about food knowsthat Leiths School of Food and Wineis the place to learn how to cook.
And anyone who knows about thislegendary London-based culinary in-stitution knows that while the signabove the door is a reference to thename of its founder, Pru Leith, thesuccess of the business also owesmuch to Caroline Waldegrave.
She had been head cook at PruLeith’s party catering company andwas appointed principal of the newlyopened Leiths School of Food andWine in 1975 when she was just 23and, as Pru has famously observed,“looked no older than the students”.She went on to become managingdirector, and then in 1994 jointlybought the school with Sir Christoph-er Bland, the former chairman ofBritish Telecom.
While Caroline was spending herworking days surrounded by stu-
dents in aprons with “Leiths” em-blazoned across them, and co-writingsuch works as Leiths Cookery Bible,she was also supporting the politicalcareer of her husband, the Conservat-ive MP William Waldegrave – n owBaron Waldegrave of North Hill, afterbecoming a life peer – as well asbringing up their four children.
So when Caroline – or, to use hercorrect title, Baroness Waldegrave ofNorth Hill – delves into a neatlyfolded pile of kitchen whites andbegins to unfurl one of the apronsthat will be worn by students at thenew cookery school she is opening ather family home in Somerset, thewording on the front is something of asur prise.
The green embroidery does notspell out the name “Walde g rave”, assome might expect. Instead, there isan image of a tree and the word“D u dwe l l ”.
From the top, Caroline in her cookeryschool dining area; the exterior; andplaying snooker. Students will also be ableto indulge in other activities such as tennis,croquet or swimming
people
My aim is to makecooking enjoyable,– to cook in away that is fun
Caroline Waldegrave was awarded an OBE for herachievements in running Leiths School of Foodand Wine. However, she yearned to be teachingcookery – and soon she will be doing that in anew venture at her Somerset home. SuzanneSavill pays a visit. Pictures by Fran Stothard
In keeping with the lack of ego thatmeant Caroline remained largely inthe background while playing a keymanagerial role at Leiths, she has notseized the chance finally to have abusiness bearing her own name. In-stead, she has called her new ventureDudwell School.
D i d n’t she want to take the oppor-tunity to see her own name above thedoor – or at least on the aprons – n owthat she has set up her own cookerys ch o o l ?
“I much prefer Dudwell as it’s thename of the house and I love it,” s ay sCaroline, a Cordon Bleu-trainedcook, who will begin teaching herfirst intake of students in August.
Then she adds with a smile: “I hopethat I’m going to establish Dudwell asa name.”
It is an aim that she will surelyachieve, judging by the experience ofa quick tour of Dudwell School –which has been set up in previouslyderelict barns at Caroline’s familyhome, Dudwell Field Farm, on theoutskirts of the village of ChewtonMendip, which is part of the Walde-grave Estate that was given to SirEdward Waldegrave in 1553 by QueenMary I.
It is a very different scale of opera-tions to Leiths, where 96 students canbe taught in four rooms. Caroline willbe providing personal tuition to justeight students at a time in the spa-cious white-tiled kitchen with stain-less steel work units in the formerbarn, beside which is a light-filledgarden room with a huge diningtable, and bedrooms above.
“I so love teaching cooking andgetting to know people and havingfun, but I had to stop teaching toconcentrate on the management sideof things at Leith’s, ” says Caroline,
Baker Edd Kimber certainly knowshow to inspire greatness in the kit-ch e n .
After chatting to him, I had a go atmaking his celebrated salted caramelb row n i e s.
Although I found it trickier thanmy normal brownie recipe, the fin-ished result was so delicious that itmade all the work worth it.
Since winning the first Great Brit-ish Bake Off three years ago, Edd’slife has changed beyond recognitionand he has joined the echelons ofcelebrity British chefs.
It does help that almost everyoneloves cake and biscuits and his re-cipes are to die for. A glance throughhis website reveals a line-up of treatsthat wouldn’t look out of place inWilly Wonka’s factory. Berry icepops, strawberry rhubarb lemonade,cinnamon rolls and pistachio androse gelato; it’s enough to get youdusting off the three-tiered cakestand and turning the Aga to high.
From debt collectorto winning chef –meet baker boy Edd
who was awarded an OBE in 2000 forservices to the catering industry.
“My whole aim in starting up Dud-well School is to make cooking enjoy-able. I want to show people how tocook in a way that is fun.
“Everyone will be able to take hometheir own book of recipes from thecourse. All the recipes are ones Ithink are essential. If you can masterthem you should be able to feel confid-ent in the kitchen.”
As well as enjoying themselveswhile learning in the kitchen, thosewho enrol upon Caroline’s five-daycourses – aimed primarily at thosewith little cookery experience – willalso be able to spend the afternoonsplaying tennis, croquet, badminton,and bridge, or swimming in the poolbeside the cookery school, or evenplaying snooker on a full-size tablewhich was bought because Carolineis a keen player.
“I love snooker,” she declares, asshe leans over a cue and takes aim ata ball. She is wearing blue denimjeans and white trainers, and couldeasily pass for a decade or two young-er than her 60 years.
How has she stayed so slim, afterspending her career surrounded byfo o d ?
“I do a lot of exercise,” she replies.“I think it’s important to make sometime for yourself.”
Frankly, it is hard to work out howCaroline has time to manage to doeven a few sit-ups.
She is still on the board at Leiths
‘Everyone will beable to take hometheir own book ofrecipes from thecourse. If you canmaster them youshould be able tofeel confident inthe kitchen’
The number of students each of Caroline’scookery courses is open to
8
even though she is no longer a share-holder, after selling her shares in2010, following the appointment in2009 of her husband William as pro-vost of Eton College, a role in whichhe is head of the governing body ofthe school which he once attended.
Caroline teaches cookery to theboys at Eton College, and also worksas a psychotherapist. Other involve-ments are her family’s organic farm,and also a freehold pub called TheBarley Mow, just off Baker Street incentral London, which the familybought last year.
“It dates back to 1791, and has tinycubicles that were used for pawn-broking. It sells simple pub food, andour three youngest are living aboveit,” says Caroline, whose children areKatie, 32, who is married; Liza, 29;Jamie, 28; and Harriet, 26.
She goes on to explain that DudwellSchool will only be running for sevenweeks a year, in summer, winter andEaster, as that is all she asked forwhen applying for planning permis-sion to convert the barns, which werealready in a derelict state 24 years agowhen Caroline and William boughtDudwell Field Farm from William’selder brother James, the 13th EarlWalde g rave.
Amid rows of school photos andfamily photos covering the walls ofthe flagstone-floored entrance hall ofDudwell Field Farm are some aerialphotographs of the farm back in themid-Seventies, with huge functionalmetal barns alongside and dilapid-ated stone barns behind them.
“When we moved in 24 years ago,our main concern was getting workdone on the house, so although we gotthose barns demolished we never gotround to restoring the original stonebar ns,” says Caroline.
“I had it in the back of my head fora while that I wanted to set up acookery school in the barns. But ithas taken a long time to do it, as evensince I decided to go ahead with thework it has required detailedplanning permission and extensivebuilding work, including underpin-ning.
“I love a project, and setting upDudwell School has been a huge one.I’m so pleased to see it all comingtogether at last.”
For information on cookery courses atDudwell School email [email protected], call 07860 123 827or go to www.dudwellschool.com
Edd Kimber,who wasinspired by thebaking of hismother andgrandmother,was the firstBake Off winner
Since impressing Paul Hollywoodand Mary Berry with his bakingskills, Edd’s career in the kitchen hastaken off dramatically.
Hard to believe then that, as ayoung man fresh out of school, he wasturned down by his local cateringcollege for a place on its course.
“I have baked since I was a childwhen we used to do it to occupyo u r s e l ve s, ” said Edd, 27.
Thankfully, he wasn’t put off by thisinitial rejection and decided to teachhimself instead.
“As a child my mum and grand-mother were great bakers and used tobake as part of their daily chores.
“At first I only did it now and againas a hobby but when I was working Istarted doing it as a bit of a relief fromthe daily job and it became a bit of anobsession.”
His first job as a debt collector for abank was about as different as youcan get from baking and Edd admitshe loathed it.
“It was the best day ever when Ihanded in my notice. There was noway I was staying there after I wonthe Great British Bake Off.”
Now much of his time when he’snot baking is spent talking or writingabout baking. His website has a blogand lots of recipes for people to tryout. He appears regularly on tele-vision, has a couple of cookbooks tohis name and shares his talent andtips with people in food roadshowsand events.
And when he finally gets to relax hestill finds himself reaching for hisapron and wooden spoon.
“My favourite things to make whenI want to relax are chocolate chipcookies. You just can’t beat them,” hesaid.
Caroline Waldegrave’s picturesque home in Chewton Mendip that doubles as a cookery school; Caroline in the kitchen, main image right
Helen Blow talks to Edd Kimber, thewinner of the first Great British BakeOff, following his appearance atCheltenham’s Food and Drink Festival
