#644 WEBS Mystery Crochet A Long Blanket

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#644 WEBS Mystery Crochet-A-Long Blanket Designed by Sara Delaney 1

Transcript of #644 WEBS Mystery Crochet A Long Blanket

Page 1: #644 WEBS Mystery Crochet A Long Blanket

#644 WEBS Mystery Crochet-A-Long Blanket Designed by Sara Delaney

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Finished Size: 8.5” x 8.5” Yarn: 2 sks (approx 75yds per square) Valley Yarns Northampton (100% Wool, 247yds/ 100g ) in each of 9 colors: Colorway 1 - Neutrals: Light Grey, Medium Grey, Dark Grey, Sage Heather, Natural, Fawn, Brown Heather, Chocolate, Chestnut Heather Colorway 2 - Autumn: Sunset Orange, Light Green Heather, Dark Green Heather, Garnet, Merlot Heather, Rust, Burgundy, Gold, Dark Olive Heather Colorway 3 - Jewel Tones: Amethyst, Ocean Heather, Merlot Heather, Twilight Heather, Burgundy, Dahlia, Midnight Heather, Dark Navy, Pacific Teal Colorway 4 - Pastels: Sage Heather, Natural, Lake Heather, Spring Purple, Denim Heather, Deep Periwinkle, Bright Pink, Raspberry Heather, Light Grey Hook: H/8 (5.00mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge Gauge: about 16 sts and 17 rows = 4” in sc Each yoyo-circle should be approx 1.75” across

Our first square features a deceptively simple way to achieve the look of pieced yo-yos, they’re not made individually and yet they’re not made all at once!

Abbreviations: ch: chain; ea: each; dc: double crochet; sc: single crochet; sl st(s): slip stitch(es); sk: skip; sp: space; st(s): stitch(es)

Want to see how it’s done? Check out our online video on how to crochet the yo-yos in this square! http://www.yarn.com/videos/video/crochet-yoyos/

Square #1

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Valley Yarns ©2015 Valley Yarns knitting/crochet patterns and weaving drafts are for personal use only and may not be copied.

Any commercial use, including selling patterns and/or drafts and items made from them is prohibited.

To Begin: Ch22. Rnd 1: 3dc in 4th ch from hook, *sk 2 ch, sl st in next ch, sk 2 ch, 3dc in next ch; rep from * twice more, remove hook from live loop, insert hook into the top of the first dc you made, grab the live loop and pull through. (12 dc, the tops of your sts will be inside the circle) Rnd 2: DO NOT CHAIN, 12dc in the same ch as the last 3dc, sl st in the next sl st, *12dc in the same ch as the next 3dc, sl st in next sl st; rep from * twice more, end with sl st between first and last circles, fasten off. (48dc, 4 circles complete) Rnd 3: Ch70, 3dc in 4th ch from hook, *sk 2 ch, sl st in next ch, sk 2 ch, 3dc in next ch, remove hook from live loop, insert hook in 4th st of any circle, grab the live loop and pull through, 4dc in same ch as previous 3dc, sk 2 ch, sl st in next ch, sk 2 ch, 3dc in next ch, remove hook from live loop, insert hook in 8th st of next circle, grab the live loop and pull through, 4dc in same ch as previous 3dc**, sk 2 ch, sl st in next ch, sk 2 ch, 3dc in next ch; rep from * twice more ending at the second time through, remove hook from live loop, insert hook into the top of the first dc you made, grab the live loop and pull through. (68 dc, the tops of your stitches will be facing inward) Rnd 4: DO NOT CHAIN, 8dc in the same ch as the last 7dc, sl st in the next sl st, 8dc in the same ch as the next 7dc, sl st in the next sl st, 12dc in the same ch as the next 3dc, sl st in the next sl st, *(8dc in the same ch as the next 7dc, sl st in the next sl st) twice, 12dc in the same ch as the next 3dc; rep from * twice more, end with sl st between first and last circles, DO NOT fasten off. (112dc, 12 circles complete)

Rnd 5: Ch4 (counts as 1dc and ch2), *(sk 2 sts, 1hdc in next st, 1sc in ea of next 2 sts, 1hdc in next st, ch2, 1dc in next sl st, ch2) twice, sk 2 sts, 1hdc in next st, 1sc in ea of next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, ch2, 2hdc in next st, 1sc in ea of next 2 sts, 1hdc in next st, ch2, 1dc in next sl st, ch2; rep from * three times more, join with sl st to 2nd ch of ch4. Rnd 6: Ch1, 1sc in same st, (2sc in ch2 sp, 1sc in ea of next 4 sts, 2sc in ch2 sp, 1sc in next st) twice, *2sc in ch2 sp, 1sc in ea of next 5 sts, (hdc, dc, hdc) in ch2 sp, 1sc in ea of next 5 sts, 2sc in ch2 sp, 1sc in next st, (2sc in ch2 sp, 1sc in ea of next 4 sts, 2sc in ch2 sp, 1sc in next st) twice; rep from * twice more 2sc in ch2 sp, 1sc in ea of next 5 sts, (hdc, dc, hdc) in ch2 sp, 1sc in ea of next 5 sts, 2sc in ch2 sp, join with sl st to first sc. (132 sc) Rnd 7: Sl st into next st, ch3 (counts as 1dc and ch1), sk 1 st, (1dc in next st, ch1, sk 1 st)13 times, (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) in next st, *ch1, sk 1 st, (1dc in next st, ch1, sk 1 st) 17 times, (dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc) in next st; rep from * twice more, ch1, sk 1 st, (1dc in next st, ch1, sk 1 st) 4 times more, join with sl st to 2nd ch of ch 3. (120 dc) Finishing: Weave in ends and lightly block.

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Finished Size: 8.5 x 8.5” Yarn: 2 sks (approx 80 yds per square) Valley Yarns Northampton (100% Wool, 247yds/ 100g) in each of 9 colors: Colorway 1 - Neutrals: Light Grey, Medium Grey, Dark Grey, Sage Heather, Natural, Fawn, Brown Heather, Chocolate, Chestnut Heather Colorway 2 - Autumn: Sunset Orange, Light Green Heather, Dark Green Heather, Garnet, Merlot Heather, Rust, Burgundy, Gold, Dark Olive Heather Colorway 3 - Jewel Tones: Amethyst, Ocean Heather, Merlot Heather, Twilight Heather, Burgundy, Dahlia, Midnight Heather, Dark Navy, Pacific Teal Colorway 4 - Pastels: Sage Heather, Natural, Lake Heather, Spring Purple, Denim Heather, Deep Periwinkle, Bright Pink, Raspberry Heather, Light Grey Hook: US size H/8 (5.00mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge Gauge: about 16 sts and 17 rows = 4” in sc

Our second square features some simple Tunisian stitches worked in strips and joined with single crochet, a perfect

backdrop for embroidery and embellishment. The Tunisian strips are also a great time to experiment with new techniques

like Tunisian knit stitch and Tunisian purl stitch.

Abbreviations: ch: chain; ea: each; dc: double crochet; sc: single crochet; sl st(s): slip stitch(es); sk: skip; sp: space; st(s): stitch(es); TSS: Tunisian Simple Stitch; yo: yarn over; jsc: joining single crochet; RS: Right Side; WS: Wrong Side Special Stitches: joining single crochet - insert hook into next st, yo, bring up a loop, insert hook into the stitch you are joining to, yo, pull loop through everything on your hook. Tunisian Simple Stitch - Each row of tunisian stitches consist of two parts: a forward pass and a return pass Forward pass - Skip the vertical bar at the edge of your work (you’ll see that the loop on your hook comes from this bar)* insert hook side-to-side under the vertical bar of the next st, yo and bring up a loop, leave this loop on your hook; rep from * across to end of row, the last vertical bar is right at the outer edge of your work. Return pass - Yo, pull through just 1 loop, * yo, pull through 2 loops; rep from * across. (1 loop left on hook) Want to see how it’s done? Follow the links in the pdf to view our online videos or visit our site at: http://www.yarn.com/videos

Square #2

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Tunisian Strips: Make 3 (all stitches are worked on the RS of the fabric, these should each measure approx 1.75” wide before blocking) To begin: Chain 9 Row 1: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yo and bring up loop, * insert hook into next ch, yo and bring up loop; rep from * across (9 loops on hook), yo, pull through 1 loop, * yo, pull through 2 loops; rep from * acros.s (1 loop left on hook) Row 2: Work TSS across 9 sts Repeat Row 2, 29 more times or until pieces measures 8.5”. If repeating this row more than 29 times please make a note for yourself. The number of TSS rows you make, plus 1, will be the number of sc sts you will need when joining the strips. Row 3: * Insert hook under the bar of the next st, yo and bring up a loop, pull this loop through the previous loop on the hook (one loop left); rep from * across (1 loop remains on hook), fasten off.

Joining the strips: Row 1: Join yarn to the upper corner of any strip, RS facing, ch1, 31sc along this edge (or the number equal to the number of TSS rows in your tunisian strips). Row 2: Ch1, turn, 1sc in ea st across. (31sc) Repeat Row 2 four times more. Row 3: Ch1, 1jsc in ea st of this row and the RS of the next tunisian strip (this becomes the center tunisian strip). (31 jsc) Fasten off. Repeat this process with the remaining tunisian strip and join it to the other side of the center strip.

Valley Yarns ©2015 Valley Yarns knitting/crochet patterns and weaving drafts are for personal use only and may not be copied.

Any commercial use, including selling patterns and/or drafts and items made from them is prohibited.

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This square features a set of asymmetrically centered cables, with bobbles, on a background of linked double crochet.

Finished Size: 8.5 x 8.5” Yarn: 2 sks (approx 80 yds per square) Valley Yarns Northampton (100% Wool, 247yds/ 100g) in each of 9 colors: Colorway 1 - Neutrals: Light Grey, Medium Grey, Dark Grey, Sage Heather, Natural, Fawn, Brown Heather, Chocolate, Chestnut Heather Colorway 2 - Autumn: Sunset Orange, Light Green Heather, Dark Green Heather, Garnet, Merlot Heather, Rust, Burgundy, Gold, Dark Olive Heather Colorway 3 - Jewel Tones: Amethyst, Ocean Heather, Merlot Heather, Twilight Heather, Burgundy, Dahlia, Midnight Heather, Dark Navy, Pacific Teal Colorway 4 - Pastels: Sage Heather, Natural, Lake Heather, Spring Purple, Denim Heather, Deep Periwinkle, Bright Pink, Raspberry Heather, Light Grey Hook: US size H/8 (5.00mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge Gauge: about 16 sts and 17 rows = 4” in sc

Abbreviations: Beg ldc: beginning ldc; bpdc: back post double crochet; ch: chain; dc: double crochet; ea: each; fpdc; front post double crochet; ldc: linked double crochet; sl st(s): slip stitch(es); sk: skip; sp: space; st(s): stitch(es); yo: yarn over Special Stitches: Linked Double Crochet: insert hook into the bar across the middle of the previous stitch, yo and bring up a loop, insert hook into next st, yo and bring up a loop, [yo and pull through 2 loops on hook] twice Beginning ldc: Ch2, turn, insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yo and bring up a loop, insert hook into next ch, yo and bring up a loop, [yo and pull through 2 loops on hook] twice Bobble: [yo, insert hook into st, yo and bring up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through one loop on hook] 5 times in same st, yo and pull through all 6 loops on hook Front post double crochet: yo, insert hook from front-back-front around post of next stitch, yo and pull up a loop, [yo and pull through 2 loops] twice. This stitch will sit to the front of your work. Back post double crochet: yo, insert hook from back-front-back around post of next stitch, yo and pull up a loop, [yo and pull through 2 loops] twice. This stitch will sit to the back, or behind, your work

Square #3

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Directions: Chain 33. Row 1: Beg ldc, * 1ldc in next ch; rep from * across. (31 ldc) Row 2: Beg ldc, 1ldc in ea of next 2sts, [1fpdc in next st, 1dc in next st] twice, 1ldc in next st, 1fpdc in ea of next 6 sts, 1dc in next st, 1ldc in next st, 1fpdc in next st, 1dc in next st, 1fpdc in next st, 1dc in next st, 1ldc in ea st to end. Row 3: Beg ldc, 1ldc in ea of next 10 sts, 1bpdc in next st, Bobble in next st, 1bpdc in next st, 1dc in next st, 1ldc in next st, 1bpdc in ea of next 6 sts, 1dc in next st, 1ldc in next st, 1bpdc in next st, Bobble in next st, 1bpdc in next st, 1dc in next st, 1ldc in ea st to end. Row 4: Beg ldc, 1ldc in ea of next 2 sts, [1fpdc in next st, 1dc in next st] twice, 1ldc in next st, sk 3 sts, 1fpdc in ea of next 3 sts, 1fpdc in first skipped st, 1fpdc in ea of next 2 skipped sts, 1dc in next st, 1ldc in next st, [1fpdc in next st, 1dc in next st] twice, 1ldc in ea st to end.

Row 5: Beg ldc, 1ldc in ea of next 10 sts, 1bpdc in next st, 1dc in next st, 1bpdc in next st, 1dc in next st, 1ldc in next st, 1bpdc in ea of next 6 sts, 1dc in next st, 1ldc in next st, 1bpdc in next st, 1dc in next st, 1bpdc in next st, 1dc in next st, 1ldc in ea st to end. Row 6: Beg ldc, 1ldc in ea of next 2 sts, sk 2 sts, 1fpdc in next st, 1dc in previous st, 1fpdc in first sk st, 1dc in next st, 1ldc in next st, 1fpdc in ea of next 6 sts, 1dc in next st, 1ldc in next st, sk 2 sts, 1fpdc in next st, 1dc in previous st, 1fpdc in first sk st, 1dc in next st, 1ldc in ea st to end. Row 7: Repeat Row 5. Repeat Rows 2 through 7 twice more. Fasten off. Finishing: Weave in ends and block to size. Please Note: The chart below indicates only the cable portion of the square and not the full stitch count of each row. It is important to note that all post stitches after Row 1 happen around the post stitches of the previous row.

Valley Yarns ©2015 Valley Yarns knitting/crochet patterns and weaving drafts are for personal use only and may not be copied.

Any commercial use, including selling patterns and/or drafts and items made from them is prohibited.

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Square #4

Our fourth square features crocodile stitch worked on the diagonal. This is a fun stitch that adds great texture to your

work. The square is finished with alternating rows of dc and sc decreasing to the opposite point.

Finished Size: 8.5 x 8.5” Yarn: 1 skein (approx 120 yds) Valley Yarns Northampton (100% Wool, 247yds/ 100g) in each of 9 colors: Colorway 1 - Neutrals: Light Grey, Medium Grey, Dark Grey, Sage Heather, Natural, Fawn, Brown Heather, Chocolate, Chestnut Heather Colorway 2 - Autumn: Sunset Orange, Light Green Heather, Dark Green Heather, Garnet, Merlot Heather, Rust, Burgundy, Gold, Dark Olive Heather Colorway 3 - Jewel Tones: Amethyst, Ocean Heather, Merlot Heather, Twilight Heather, Burgundy, Dahlia, Midnight Heather, Dark Navy, Pacific Teal Colorway 4 - Pastels: Sage Heather, Natural, Lake Heather, Spring Purple, Denim Heather, Deep Periwinkle, Bright Pink, Raspberry Heather, Light Grey Hook: US size H/8 (5.00mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge Gauge: about 16 sts and 17 rows = 4” in sc

Abbreviations: ch: chain; dc: double crochet; dc2tog: double crochet 2 together; dc3tog: double crochet 3 together; ea: each; sl st(s): slip stitch(es); sk: skip; sp: space; st(s): stitch(es); yo: yarn over Special Stitches: Beg Scale st - ch3 (counts as 1dc), 4dc downwards around the first dc, ch1, 5dc upwards around the next dc Scale st - 5dc downwards along next dc, ch1, 5dc upwards along next dc (Another way to describe the whole "downwards/upwards" thing: turn clockwise 90 degrees so you are facing the dc indicated, 5dc along the side of the post, ch1, turn counterclockwise 90 degrees so you are facing the next dc indicated, 5dc along the side of that post) dc2tog - [yo, insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook] twice, yo and pull through 3 loops on hook dc3tog - [yo, insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook] 3 times, yo and pull through 4 loops on hook

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NOTE: Scale rows are worked left to right Directions: Row 1: Ch4, sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Row 2: Ch3 (counts as 1 dc and ch1), 4dc into the ring, ch1, 5dc into the ring. (1 scale) Row 3 Do not turn on this and all remaining scale rows: Ch3 (counts as 1dc and ch1), 1dc into the side of the last dc in Row 2, ch1, 1dc into the ring from Row 1 (between the sets of dcs in the scale), ch1, 1dc in the 2nd ch of the ch 3 from Row 2, ch1, 1dc in the 3rd ch of the ch 3 from Row 2. (5dc) Do not turn through Row 17. Row 4: Beg scale st in last dc made in prev row, sl st in next dc, scale st. (2 scales) Row 5: Ch3 (counts as 1dc and ch1), 1dc into the side of the last scale, ch1, 1dc in center of scale, ch1, 1dc in the other side of the last scale, ch1, 1dc in side of next scale, ch1, 1dc in center of scale, ch1, 1dc in side of scale, ch1, 1dc in 3rd ch of ch 3 at start of scale. (8dc) Count on non-scale rows is essential, next scale row won't work if count is off. Row 6: Beg scale st, sl st in next dc, scale st, sl st in next dc, scale st. (3 scales) Row 7: Ch3 (counts as 1dc and ch1), 1dc into the side of the last scale, ch1, 1dc in center of scale, ch1, 1dc in the other side of the last scale, ch1, [1dc in side of next scale, ch1, 1dc in center of scale, ch1, 1dc in side of scale, ch1] twice, 1dc in 3rd ch of ch 3 at start of scale. (11dc) Row 8: Beg scale st, sl st in next dc, [scale st, sl st in next dc] twice, scale st. (4 scales) Row 9: Ch3 (counts as 1dc and ch1), 1dc into the side of the last scale, ch1, 1dc in center of scale, ch1, 1dc in the other side of the last scale, ch1, [1dc in side of next scale, ch1, 1dc in center of scale, ch1, 1dc in side of scale, ch1] 3 times, 1dc in 3rd ch of ch 3 at start of scale. (14dc) Row 10: Beg scale st, sl st in next dc, [scale st, sl st in next dc] 3 times, scale st. (5 scales)

Row 11: Ch3 (counts as 1dc and ch1), 1dc into the side of the last scale, ch1, 1dc in center of scale, ch1, 1dc in the other side of the last scale, ch1, [1dc in side of next scale, ch1, 1dc in center of scale, ch1, 1dc in side of scale, ch1] 4 times, 1dc in 3rd ch of ch 3 at start of scale. (17dc) Row 12: Beg scale st, sl st in next dc, [scale st, sl st in next dc] 4 times, scale st. (6 scales) Row 13: Ch3 (counts as 1dc and ch1), 1dc into the side of the last scale, ch1, 1dc in center of scale, ch1, 1dc in the other side of the last scale, ch1, [1dc in side of next scale, ch1, 1dc in center of scale, ch1, 1dc in side of scale, ch1] 5 times, 1dc in 3rd ch of ch 3 at start of scale. (20 dc) Row 14: Beg scale st, sl st in next dc, [scale st, sl st in next dc] 5 times, scale st. (7 scales) Row 15: Ch3 (counts as 1dc and ch1), 1dc into the side of the last scale, ch1, 1dc in center of scale, ch1, 1dc in the other side of the last scale, ch1, [1dc in side of next scale, ch1, 1dc in center of scale, ch1, 1dc in side of scale, ch1] 6 times, 1 dc in 3rd ch of ch 3 at start of scale. (23 dc) Row 16: Beg scale st, sl st in next dc, [scale st, sl st in next dc] 6 times, scale st. (8 scales) Row 17: Ch2 (counts as 1 dc), 1dc in same st, * 1dc in side of next scale, 2dc in center of scale, 1dc in other side of scale,**1dc between scales; rep from * across, ending at **, 2dc in 3rd ch of ch 3. (43dc) Row 18: Ch1, turn, 1sc in next st, (sc2tog) twice, 1sc in ea st until 5 sts remain, (sc2tog) twice, 1sc in last st. (39sc) Row 19: Ch2 (does not count as first dc), turn, 1dc in first st, [dc2tog] twice, 1dc in ea st across until 5 sts remain, [dc2tog] twice, 1dc in last st. (35dc) Row 20: Ch1, turn, 1sc in ea st across. (35sc) Repeat Rows 19 and 20 seven times more. (7sc) Row 21: Ch2, turn, dc2tog, dc3tog, dc2tog. (3dc) Row 22: Repeat Row 20. (3sc) Row 23:Ch2, turn, dc3tog, fasten off. Finishing: Weave in ends and block to settle stitches.

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Valley Yarns ©2015 Valley Yarns knitting/crochet patterns and weaving drafts are for personal use only and may not be copied.

Any commercial use, including selling patterns and/or drafts and items made from them is prohibited.

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Joining the Squares

There are two options for joining your blanket: Joining Single Crochet

or Lattice Double Crochet

Finished Size: 8.5 x 8.5” Yarn: 1 skein (approx 240yds) Valley Yarns Northampton (100% Wool, 247yds/ 100g) in each of 9 colors: Colorway 1 - Neutrals: Light Grey, Medium Grey, Dark Grey, Sage Heather, Natural, Fawn, Brown Heather, Chocolate, Chestnut Heather Colorway 2 - Autumn: Sunset Orange, Light Green Heather, Dark Green Heather, Garnet, Merlot Heather, Rust, Burgundy, Gold, Dark Olive Heather Colorway 3 - Jewel Tones: Amethyst, Ocean Heather, Merlot Heather, Twilight Heather, Burgundy, Dahlia, Midnight Heather, Dark Navy, Pacific Teal Colorway 4 - Pastels: Sage Heather, Natural, Lake Heather, Spring Purple, Denim Heather, Deep Periwinkle, Bright Pink, Raspberry Heather, Light Grey Hook: US size H/8 (5.00mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge Gauge: about 16 sts and 17 rows = 4” in sc

Abbreviations:

ch:chain; dc:double crochet; ea: each; sl st(s): slip stitch(es); sk: skip; sp: space; st(s): stitch(es); yo: yarn over

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Joining option one: Joining Single Crochet Single crochet along the edge of one square, (always using the same color as the square), break the yarn. Single crochet along the facing side of the next square, do NOT break your yarn. Make sure you have the same number of stitches on both squares! (you can increase or decrease sts as you work along the second square to match the stitch count from the first square). Lay the pieces down, edges facing, and right sides up with the square you’re still connected to closest to you: Keeping the working yarn behind both squares while you work, *insert your hook into the next st on your current square, yarn over and bring that loop though the stitch, now insert your hook into the next/corresponding stitch on the square you are joining to, front to back, yarn over and pull this loop through everything on your hook, this is essentially a slip stitch (one joined single crochet complete); rep from * until all stitches have been worked. On the finished blanket we’ve done this method by single crocheting the first row in the same color as the square and always working the joining single crochet with the color from the square to the left or the square above (the square’s location in the blanket NOT it’s location as you are working the stitches). There is no significance to these choices, but consistency is key to an even appearance to your joins. You could easily use a single color to join the whole blanket or change colors throughout, though I would still suggest picking up your initial stitches in a color matching your square to mitigate the appearance of any inconsistencies. I like to work in strips for this method. After I’ve laid out all the squares in the configuration of the blanket I’ll make neat piles of each row of squares. I’ll join all the squares for the bottom row together, then all the squares for the row above that, then the one above that and so on. Then I’ll join the rows together THE SAME WAY as the squares. Single Crochet along the top of the whole length of the row, repeat that process on the bottom of the second row then join them together. Top of the 2nd row to the bottom of the third and so on. If it makes more sense to you to work from the top of the blanket down or from one side to the other GO for it! Directionality is not important, the process is the same no matter where you start.

Joining option two: Lattice Double Crochet Again, I would suggest doing a row of single crochet in the same color as the square, making sure your have the same number of sts on each square, and then using whichever color you desire for the lattice portion. For this method you’ll need a st count on ea square that is a multiple of 3+1. Lay 2 squares side by side with the Right sides facing you, Join your yarn to the first square on the left, ch2(counts as 1dc), dc in the first st on the right-hand square, *ch2, sk 2sts on the left, dc in the next st, sk 2 sts on the right, dc in the next st; rep from * across both squares. I like to work in strips for this method as well. After I’ve laid out all the squares in the configuration of the blanket I’ll make neat piles of each row of squares. I’ll join all the squares for the bottom row together, then all the squares for the row above that, then the one above that and so on. Then I’ll join the rows together THE SAME WAY as the squares. Single Crochet along the top of the whole length of the row, repeat that process on the bottom of the second row then join them together. Top of the 2nd row to the bottom of the third and so on. If it makes more sense to you to work from the top of the blanket down or from one side to the other GO for it! Directionality is not important, the process is the same no matter where you start. Finishing: Weave in ends and block to settle stitches.

Abbreviations:

ch:chain; dc:double crochet; ea: each; sl st(s): slip stitch(es); sk: skip; sp: space; st(s): stitch(es); yo: yarn over

Valley Yarns ©2015 Valley Yarns knitting/crochet patterns and weaving drafts are for personal use only and may not be copied.

Any commercial use, including selling patterns and/or drafts and items made from them is prohibited.

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Edging the Blanket

There are two options for edging your blanket: Single Crochet

or Looped Chains

Finished Size: 8.5 x 8.5” Yarn: 1 skein (approx 240yds) Valley Yarns Northampton (100% Wool, 247yds/ 100g) in each of 9 colors: Colorway 1 - Neutrals: Light Grey, Medium Grey, Dark Grey, Sage Heather, Natural, Fawn, Brown Heather, Chocolate, Chestnut Heather Colorway 2 - Autumn: Sunset Orange, Light Green Heather, Dark Green Heather, Garnet, Merlot Heather, Rust, Burgundy, Gold, Dark Olive Heather Colorway 3 - Jewel Tones: Amethyst, Ocean Heather, Merlot Heather, Twilight Heather, Burgundy, Dahlia, Midnight Heather, Dark Navy, Pacific Teal Colorway 4 - Pastels: Sage Heather, Natural, Lake Heather, Spring Purple, Denim Heather, Deep Periwinkle, Bright Pink, Raspberry Heather, Light Grey Hook: US size H/8 (5.00mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge Gauge: about 16 sts and 17 rows = 4” in sc

Abbreviations: ch:chain; dc:double crochet; ea: each; sc: single crochet; sl st(s): slip stitch(es); sk: skip; sp: space; st(s): stitch(es); yo: yarn over

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Edging One: Single Crochet This one is super simple and ties in nicely with the Joining Single Crochet, but also works beautifully with the Lattice Double Crochet join. Single crochet all along the outer edge of the blanket, re-member to place 3 sc in ea corner to prevent curling(use the same color as the square you’re stitching into for the first row to maximize an even appearance to your edging!) Single crochet around the blanket with each color - don’t forget to do 3sc in the center st of the 3sc from the previous row for your corners!

Edging Two: Looped Chains Again, single crochet all along the outer edge of the blanket remember to place 3 sc in ea corner to prevent curling(use the same color as the square you’re stitching into for the first row to maximize an even appearance to your edging!) Your stitch count for each edge must be a multiple of 5+1 Start in the right most stitch on any side. Row 1: Join yarn, ch1, sc in same st, *Ch6, sk 4 sts, 1sc in next st; rep from * to next corner, (1sc, ch6, 1sc) in corner st; rep from * three times more, join with sl st to first sc, fasten off. Row 2: Join yarn to first sc of last row, ch1, sc in same st, take your hook out of the stitch, reach under the chain loop of the last color and grab your live loop pulling it in front of the previous row, *Ch6, sk ch5 loop, 1sc in next sc; rep from * to next corner, ( sc in same st, take your hook out of the stitch, reach under the chain loop of the last color and grab your live loop pulling it in front of the previous row, *Ch6, sk ch5 loop, 1sc in next sc; rep from * around, join with sl st to first sc, fasten off. repeat Row 2 with each color. Finishing: Weave in ends and block to settle stitches.

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