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WOVEN SHIRT

Season: TBD

Description:Long Sleeve Plaid

Proto #  

Style # : 5095

Agent:  Factory: Khemka - Bombay India

SAMPLE SIZE - medium Proto 1st Proto Remake 2nd Proto Remake

DATE 11/4/09 12/7/09

MODEL AARON

1 CB Length - below neck seam 31 1/2 31 1/ 2 31 1/ 2

2 CF Length - below neck seam TBA 28 3/ 4 28 1/ 2

3 Shoulder Seam Forward 1 1/4 1 1/ 4 1 1/ 4

4 Shoulder Width - seam to seam 18 18 3/ 8 18

5 Across Chest - 7" below HPS 16 15 3/ 4 16

6 Across Back - at yoke seam 17 17 3/ 8 17

7 Chest - 1" below armhole (full) 45 45 45

8 Waist Position from HPS 18 18

9 Waist Circumference (full) 44 44

10 Bottom Opening Width Relaxed ( full) 45 45 1/ 2 45

11 Bottom Hem Height 1/4 1/ 4 1/ 4

12 Sleeve Length from CB - Long Sleeve 35 35 3/ 8 35

13 Armhole Circumference 22 22 1/ 2 23

Sleeve Cap Height 5 3/4 5 3/ 4 6 1/ 4

14 Muscle - 1" below armhole 17 1/2 16 1/ 2 17 1/ 2

15 Forearm - 6" from end of sleeve 13 1/4 12 1/ 2 13 1/ 2

16 Cuff Opening - to 1st button 8 3/4 9 8 3/ 4

16A Cuff Opening - to 2nd button none n/a

17 Cuff Button Spacing - center to center n/a n/a

18 Sleeve Placket Length TBA 6 1/ 8 6

Sleeve Placket opening TBA 4 7/ 8 5

19 Sleeve Placket Width 1 1 1

20 Sleeve Cuff Height 2 3/8 2 3/ 8 2 3/ 8

21 Neck Width - seam to seam 5 3/4 6 5/ 8 5 3/ 422 Front Neck Drop - HPS to seam 3 3/4 3 3/ 8 3 3/ 4

23 Back Neck Drop - HPS to seam 3/4 1/ 2 1/ 2

25 Collar Length on Outside Edge - point to point TBA 18 1/ 8 17 3/ 4

26 Collar Height at CB 2 2 1 3/ 4

27 Neckband Height at CB 1 3/ 8 1 3/ 8 1 1/ 4

Neckband Height at CF 1 1/ 8 1 1 1/ 8

28 Collar Point Length 2 5/ 8 2 3/ 4 2 1/ 2

29 Tie Space - buttoned and folded 1/ 4 1/ 4 1/ 4

31 Buttonhole to end of Neckband 16 17 16

32 CF Placket Width 1 1/4 1 1/ 4 1 1/ 4

33 Pocket position from CF 1 7/ 8 2

34 Pocket position from HPS 9 7/ 8 9 1/ 4

35 Pocket LENGTH - including flap 5 3/ 4 6

Pocket WIDTH 5 5 5/ 8

Pocket flap height - at center  2 3/ 8

Pocket flap height - at side 1 3/ 4

Pocket flap Width 5 7/ 8

Patch Pocket Box Pleat Width 1 3/ 4

36 Shirt Tail Height - front 3 1/2 3 3/ 8 3 1/ 2

Shirt Tail Height - Back 3 1/2 3 3/ 8 3 1/ 2

38 CB Yoke Height 4 1/ 2 4 5/ 8 4 1/ 2

40 Back Pleat Depth 1 1/ 2 1 1/ 2 1 1/ 2

41 Shoulder Slope 2 1/2 2 1/ 2 2 3/8

42 Center of 2nd Button from Neck Seam 2 3/4 2 3/ 4 2 3/4

43 Center of Last Button from Hemline 5 1/4 5 1/ 4 5 1/4

ROGUES GALLERY Department:

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WOVEN SHIRT

Season: TBD

Description: Long Sleeve Plaid

Proto #  

Style # : 5095

Agent:  

Factory: Khemka - Bombay India

12/8/2009

2nd Proto

FIT:

1. Review all corrected pattern pieces/specs CAREFULLY. Spec requests are

to be 100% achieved. All specs must be achieved within sewing tolerance.

2. MUST achieve Forearm spec as requested. Make pleats into cuff deeper to accommodate

3. NOTE: All pocket specs quoted herein are TBA. I do not have specific style information

and do not know what pockets are required on this style. I am including the standard

only pocket informtion I have received to date from Design/Aaron Levine. See additional page.

4. Collar as sample is NOT correct - shape is quite poor. See returned pattern for collar shape/proportion

Please review collar details with Design/Aaron Levine as I am not sure if style is button down collar

Not sure if collar is button through at CB

WORKMANSHIP:

1. CF Placket/buttonholes: must be CLEAN. Free of loose threads from cutting/sewing. Improve for future samples

2. Sleeve Inseam/Body Side Seam construction is INCORRECT. Must be Double Needle Felled Construction.

Current sample shows FRENCH SEAMS. NO USA product for Male customer uses any seaming except FELLED SEA

3. Thank you for correcting Workmanship points from 1st submit.

CHANGES:

1. See design regarding collar / chest pocket.

Thank you,

Brian Timmer

ROGUES GALLERY Department:

APPROVED WITH CORRECTIONS - IF VENDOR WELL FOLLOWS CORRECTED PATTERN

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FALL 2010 - NEW CHEST POCKET CONSTRUCTION:

FLAP DIMENSIONS: (SEE BELOW, 2ND PAGE FOR POCKET DIMENSIONS)

5 7/8"

1 3/4"

3"

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DIMENSIONS OF POCKET:

5 5/8"

1 7/8"

1 3/4"

1 7/8

1

1/2"

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WOVEN SHIRT

Season: TBD

Description: Long Sleeve Plaid

Proto #  

Style # : 5095

Agent:  

Factory: Khemka - Bombay India

###

1st FIT

REJECTED. CORRECT AND RESUBMIT FOR APPROVAL

FIT:

1. BALANCE OF GARMENT WAS COMPLETELY INCORRECT. MUCH LENGTH NEEDED IN FRONT PANEL TO ACHIEVE LEVEL / EVE

2. SEE CORRECTED SAMPLE RETURNED TO VENDOR.

ROGUES GALLERY Department:

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WOVEN SHIRT

Season: TBD

Description: Long Sleeve Plaid

Proto #  

Style # : 5095

Agent:  Factory: Khemka - Bombay India

ROGUES GALLERY Department:

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WOVEN SHIRT

Season: TBD

Description: Long Sleeve Plaid

Proto #  

Style # : 5095

Agent:  Factory: Khemka - Bombay India

WORKMANSHIP:

1. CF PLACKET - LAST BUTTON TO BE SET 5 1/4" FROM BOTTOM HEM. BUTTONHOLE TO BE HORIZONTAL ACROSS PLACKET

2. SLEEVE PLACKET - BUTTONHOLE TO BE SET HORIZONTAL ACROSS PLACKET.

3. STYLE IS NOT A BUTTONDOWN COLLAR. TO BE POINT

4. STYLE TO HAVE (1) PC BUTTON AT CUFF ONLY.

5. COLLAR MUST COMPLETELY COVER/CONCEAL THE COLLARBAND CONSTRUCTION

CHANGES:

1. SEE REVISED SPECS FOR 2ND FIT SAMPLE SUBMIT

THANK YOU,

BRIAN TIMMER 

ROGUES GALLERY Department: