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3rd Eyerd EyeIssue 2, March 2010

Glacier MarriagesOld tradition in Northern Areasfor water conservation

An online photographic magazine of Pakistani Photographers Association (PPA)

Do You Take This GlacierTo be Your Wife?

over Photos: Mazhar Iqbal (Pakistani Trekker)

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Cover Story

Do you Want This

Glacier Marriages - An old traditionin Northern Areas of Pakistan,for water conservation

Cover Photo: Godwin Austin Glacier

Editing and Design

Advisory Board

Published by

Issue No./Month

Muzffar H. Bukhari

Dr. Zaheer Sattar, Rahimyar Khan

Kamran Safdar, TaxilaAmeer Hamza, KarachiSultana Tabassum, Karachi

Suhail Akhtar, IslamabadImran Miskeen, Islamabad

Dr. Kiran Nasir, Karachi

Communication DepartmentPakistani Photographers Association

Head Office, Islamabadwww.flickr.com/groups/opp

Issue 2, March 2010

Photo Credit: Mazhar Iqbal

In this Issue

The WorldThrough My EyesA visit to Veniceand Murano Island, Italy

Dr. Kiran Nasir

Chota MeccaA land of Saints andeducated people

Muzaffar H. Bukhari

Kalash

The Lost TribeA story fromThe Hindukush Mountains

Shafqat Mirza

GlacierTo Be Your Wife?

Content Editor/Layout Designer

Caroline WatsonCopy Editor

Do you Want This

Glacier To Be Your Wife?Glacier Marriages - An oldwater conservation tradition inNorthern Areas of Pakistan.

Muhammad Ismail Khan

Mubarik

VillageAn isolated Beach Front near KarachiAmeer Hamza

6

13

InboxLetters to Editor/Readers feedbackon Ist Issue 3rd Eye

Ethics ofMacro Photography

Awais Yaqoob

Tips and techniques on macro photography

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In this Issue

Sheikh Badin

Muhammad Danial Shah

A forgotten paradise of NWFP

InterviewingGR Mughal

Muzffar H. Bukhari

Kenny IrwinAn American artist by birth, andtrue Pakistani by soul.

Muzaffar H. Bukhari

Iqbal Raza KhatriA conversation with wonderfulphotographer from Karachi havinga diversified portfolio

Interviewer: Sultana Tabassum Farooqi

FromEditors Desk

An accomplished Wildlife Photographer

35

Hill Station

45 Katasraj

Where a water pond cameinto existence with Shivastears upon Satis (his wife) death

Haroon Mustafa

Complex

Interview with51

8Featuring

Dear Reader!

After inordinate but at the same time, unavoidable delayssecond Issue of 3rd Eye is finally out - in front of you. Wtook so long, is a genuine question that everyone of you be thinking of. Well, a couple of reasons. The most imporones were; (i) delay in receipt of material from thecontributors, crashing of my hard disk causing loss of ab

six ready-to-publish articles, (ii) malfunctioning of myWindows as a result of some virus attack, and (iii) last buleast, problems with desktop publishing software (CoreldIt was really like a nightmare. To cut the story short, I goproblem fixed after trying about 15 different CDs ofCoreldraw. It took much of the time.

The feedback of the readers on the first Issue of 3rd Eye facross the globe was overwhelmingly encouraging. It wsimply unbelievable. I, on behalf of the whole magazinethank you all for this encouragement and commit to contbringing more interesting and informative stuff for you in

future Issues as well.

Some of the readers were so excited that they voluntarilyoffered their services for the magazine. In this Issue, yousee many new names in writers as well as in the advisoryboard. These are the people who got inspiration from theIssue. Of those, Ms. Caroline Watson from UK volunteeherself for the magazine as a Copy Editor. With herinvolvement, we hope to improve the quality of the magazmanifolds. Similarly, Dr. Kiran Nasir from Karachi, offemanage a new series of international travelogues with thname of The World Through My Eyes. The first storytravel to Venice and Murano Islands under this theme is

written by her.

Some of the writeups received for this issue could not beincluded this time due to one reason or the other. Howevsuch material shall appear in the 3rd Issue of the 3rd EyeInshaAllah. This time, we plan to do it really on a fast-trpersonally apologize all such contributors whose materiacould not appear this time but it will be there in 3rd Issuany case, rest assured.

Finally, thanks to all who contributed to 3rd Eye in any fspecially to Ms. Caroline Watson, on volunteering herself

copy editing. She has been very cooperative and proactivhas literally acted as an ambassador of the magazine byreferring it to a wide circle of his friends through Faceboetc. My thanks are also due to Dr. Kiran, for taking chargthe World Trough My Eyes, and contributing the firstof the series. She also has been helpful in talent-huntingefforts to tap the new writers for the magazine.

This is all from the editor's desk. Please go through themagazine, and don't forget to provide your valuablecomments/suggestions. Cheers.

Muzaffar H. Bukhari

Editor/Layout Designer


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Reader s s Feedbac k on Is t Issue

3rd Eye

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Startling & beautiful photographs that will make you see Pakistan a-new. Who knew that the world biggest fort was iPakistan?! Or the sheer range of wildlife to be found here. This is the terrific e-magazine of the PakistanPhotographers Association. I am incredibly impressed and I am not simply being polite.The design was extremely professional, in fact I had printed out a couple of bits to read and had it in my bag when I mea friend on Saturday. She used to work for Borders(bookstores) and she commented on the presentation and said (as had thought) that it wouldn't have looked out of place on the glossy magazine shelf there. I hope very much Third Eywill find its way there one day. The content too, I thought, was original and professional, and the spirit it had beencreated from inspiring! I look forward to the next edition please send me the link when it is out. Among almost all othe content, I liked the Bhong mosque article; the "biggest fort" was fascinating; and I definitely want to go to thosmud volcanoes! I really liked the original angles theater photography, etc, not just the usual places. Nice to have female voice in there too, and as I really respected the book The Dancing Girls of Lahore, I enjoyed that article a lot. could go on - I cannot give enough praise, and have to say am impressed that you are also part of this initiative.

(Caroline Watson, London

Excellent!, I love the fact that it has articles on anthropological and natural historical issues, history, technologynature and especially CONSERVATION! I think the fact that conservation and a criticism of "Trophy Hunters" (foolwho think killing innocent defenseless wild animals with weapons is fun! when the Holy Quran PROHIBITS killinfor sport!) was excellent, and more such articles should be posted. I'd love to see more on issues such as Pollution especially the disease of the 'Shopper' plastic bags which are destroying the terra firma. Also on illegal deforestationand any erosion of forested areas.I really enjoyed the book review on the dancing girls of Lahore - thats a book I'm sure to get hold of if I am able!The photos and layout is great! the lens review is faultless. More of the same please! All we need is a 'letters page' suppose.

(Ibraar, London, UK

First of all I will say thanks to you all, who did this. Nice one. Composition and stories are very attractive, Colors anlayout is impressive. I hope you will do more for your satisfaction and for Pakistan.

(Nadeem Khawar, Lahore

Congratulation everyone...thats really impressive work... very good effort... and it is comparable to other photomags...i agree to Tehreer that logo should not be with the white background... there is another suggestion that eachphoto should have a precise location written over it comprising few words...as it will give a more detailed overview ofthe place.

(Asif Mahmood

Wow!!!! Wonderful work!!! Congratulations to all of you! I love it! Very informative articles and beautiful photos.I wish to visit all these places with my family =) Insha Allah! Our country is so beautiful! Allah bless it!PAKISTAN ZINDABAD!

(Ghazal Farooqi, Karach

Thank you for your email. I did download the magazine and wanted to commend you on a job well done. I havrecently taken up photography (I have a long way to go) but it helps a lot to learn from the masterpieces displayed ithe mag.I have forwarded your mag to quite a few friends and have heard only good things about it. I also forwarded it to aBritish girl I met in North Pakistan and she sent back great compliments. Well done! Thanks.

(Yasir Malik , Karachi

Inbox


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Glacierto be your wife?

Glacier

Do you take this

By Muhammad Ismail Khan

Photo: Hamid Khan

Photo

:HamidKhan

A Glacier in Karakoram Mountains

Wild Flowers Near Glacier

illage elders, their heads together, intensely discuss and go on to decidearrangements for a unique marriage ceremony. The task at hand is tochoose a male and a female piece of ice, setting in motion a series ofrituals. Two chunks of ice, one each from a female and a male glacier, arethen transported to an appropriate location. Doing so, porters carrying

the pieces shall observe complete silence. Pieces of ice will then be placed side-by-

side, close enough for both chunks to eventually produce 'offspring' in the shape offresh water a new source of irrigation and drinking water.

No, this is not an excerpt from the folklore of a primitive tribal society; this is, infact, a water tradition being practiced even today in the 21st century, in smallvillages of the Karakouram in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. Already there aremany communities that have bred small glaciers in the Gilgit and Baltistan regions.

Breeding Glaciers in Ancient Times

As the stark reality of unpredictable water flow is dawning on the mountaincommunities of Pakistan, the age-old tradition of breeding glaciers is being revived

with a fervor. Traditionally, village elders would gather to select a suitable site andlarge blocks of equal sizes of one male and one female block of ice were then takenfrom two different glaciers and carried on to the appointed location.

March 2010 13rd Eye Pakistani Photographers Association

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The gender of the glacier was determined by taking into consideratfactors such as the characteristics of the people living in the nearareas, where male glaciers were thought to produce a higher yield afertility as well as a strong male population. Female glacier areas w

said to have opposite characteristics, and were the home to a significnumber of beautiful women.

According to the tradition, it is vital to transport both blocks in one and those carrying the ice were to do so in complete silence. Onmoved to another location, the blocks of ice would be allowedaccumulate snow in the winter, thereby increasing in size and densIn summer, they were covered with a canopy to shield them from heat of the sun. A few years later the blocks of ice would be transforminto new glaciers, providing a new source of irrigation and drinkiwater for the community.

Ancient Tradition Comes to Life

Only last year, a community-based organization known as ParbSocial Welfare Organization (PSWO) in Chilas, Ddistrict Diamtransplanted glacier seeds in six different locations. Continuodrought-like situations in many villages in the district forced villagto think of innovative ideas to harness water.

A social activist, Mr. Manawar Khan, after reading about this traditimotivated a bunch of volunteers from PSWO to initiate the breedingglaciers as a sustainable alternative to offset water scarcity in

villages. He constituted a committee to look for an appropriate locatin the mountains; the committee members identified six sulocations. Searching a location where snow and ice could not melt eight to ten months of the year was not an easy task. The surveyors hto sit and wait long hours at various parts of the mountains to check intensity of sunlight and length of shadows over them.

This was followed by another technical part of the projeidentification of male and female glaciers and arranging for th

March 201023rd Eye Pakistani Photographers Association

Baltoro Glacier from Paju Peak

Glacial morain of Malongdati Glaicier

Photo: Mazhar Iqbalhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/pakistanitrekker/4016315536/


Goodwin-Austin Glacier towards Concordia

A view from Memorial to K2 Base Campand Skyang Kangri


o: Waseem A. Khan, WWF-P


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oto: Muzaffar H. Bukhari

transportation. In this case, PSWOvolunteers traveled 230 kilometers toBagrot Valley near Gilgit, from where theytransported male and female glaciers inseparate vehicles all the way to Babusar inChilas. These were then transported non-stop to Babusar, Babusar Shoti, Batogah,Plaelot, Shregalihador and Gohar Abad.The volunteers carried pieces of ice on theirbacks up to the locations that were more

than 14,000ft thousand feet above sealevel. At the breeding locations, volunteershad already dug up sixty-feet60ft-roundand nine-feet9ft-deep ditches. They thenplaced male glaciers in the hole, swiftlyfollowed by the female ones, the union oftwo producing a whizzing sound,confirming to the experts that the marriagehad been consummated!

The Only Option

Although the practice of breeding glacierswas dying out, rapidly vanishing glaciersand water springs provided a new impetusfor drawing on the traditional wisdom ofthe communities. "I moved here some 20years ago along with many other families,as at that time this was a very fertile villagewith abundance of water for growing wheatand fruit trees. Today the glacier that wasfeeding water to the village has dried up,and during the last couple of years we have

not been able to grow anything. Our treesare dying and some of the families havealready moved out," says 70-year-old GulHafiz, a resident of Dadrapuke village inGhizer (Oral Testimony Panos SA, 2003).

The huge frozen water bodies have shaped pecutraditions among people frozen in time for centuries. Tnurtured their social norms, beliefs, customs andmeans of livelihood in harmony with nature, learn

from the nature and bestowing on nature their exuberance.

Other than building channels over mountain ridgesteer water from springs and streams, the only way could think of harnessing a sustainable source of wwas to develop a glacier, since lifting water up on highrugged terrain was a rather difficult proeposition. Ewith today's sparsely available power infrastructure,an unaffordable wish. In numerous villages throug

An Un-named Glacier at Khunerab Pass

Passu Glacier

Photo by: Muzaffar H. Bukhari

Photo: Hamid Khan

These blocks of Snow were transported in separate vehicles from BaValley near Gilgit, to Babusar in Chilas, covering a distance of about

A Glacier on Khunjerab Top



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the region people planted glaciers, and a few hundredmeters down the hill they would construct a little poundor dam from where water could be channelled to theterraced fields and gardens. Every family would then usestored water one by one, with village headmen keeping awatch on the timely and effective use of available water

resources for irrigation and drinking purposes.

Gang Singhe that overlooks the town of Skardu is onesuch hand-bred glacier. There are many folk talesassociated with this glacier, which from a distance lookslike the shape of a horse. Many in the valley believe thatthe year the head of this horse-like glacier retreats awayfrom the rest of the body, a member of the royal familywill pass away. Strangely enough, such this has actuallyhappened during the last eighty years or so.

Global Warming Threatens Pakistan's Glaciers

Changing weather patterns are massively impacting thelivelihood of these nearly one million people, whosebasic mainstay is substance agriculture based on growingwheat, maize, fruits, and raising livestock.

"Glaciers are melting. From what I can estimate, theyhave retreated a mile or so. In my village, Minapin, Irecall walking over glaciers. The snowfall in December

and January used to turn into glaciers and the summerwould melt them gradually. The rain in summer, which camoisture, falls over, hastening the melting process. Nowmost dangerous thing about glaciers is that in June and Julhave stronger sunshine causing the glaciers to melt fasterwe don't have snow stored as much as it should have bbesides the gradual melting procedure is no more tmeaning faster melting. So rivers rise unexpectedly crefloods , thus many human settlements on riverbanks armore there, says Aga Yahya, a well-known commactivist from Minapin village in Nagar (Oral Testimony PSA, 2003).

Devastating Impact on Local Agriculture

An increasing population is exerting stress on the limitedpercent cultivable land of Pakistan's 72,400 sq. km, of w1% percent is currently under cultivation while andremaining 1% percent can only be utilized if the water- supotential is harnessed. Irrigated land usually consists of sterraced fields, which normally rely on glacial melt for wat

Glacial morain of an unnamedGlacier at Khunerab Pass

Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari

Passu Glacier


Photo: Hamid Khan

Shispar Glacier as seen from Abdigar

Photo: Ham

Trekking on Biafo Glacier



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Fruit trees also constitute an important part of the local agriculture; some of the important fruits are apricots, almongrapes, cherries, apples, peaches, walnuts and mulberries. In recent years, fruits and nuts have become an importasource of income for the villagers. The farming activities thus depend a lot on irrigation, as rainfall is low and erratand over the years farmers have been using increasing amounts of water to irrigate their crops, thus affecting tdownstream flow of water. At the same time, sustained deforestation, degradation of pastures, declining woodland abiodiversity, soil erosion and unorganized urbanization, as well as mining practices, plus the phenomena of globwarming, are all taking their toll on mountain watersheds in the upland.

Soaring populations both in the mountains and on the plains continue to press demand for fresh water, and conflicts ovwater rights are a real threat in the mountain as well as in the plains. Effective conservation of mountain ecology apromotion of sustainable harvesting of water is emerging as one of the major challenges facing us in the upcomiyears. Our ability to feed growing numbers of people largely rests on an economy based on judicious use of water life. The lowland regions serve as vital catchments for the Indus River, upon which much of the country's agricultuand hydroelectricity depends so heavily. Around 90% percent of the lowland flow of the Indus originates in tmountains of the Karakouram and Western Himalaya. The mountains of Northern Pakistan are thus in the true sen'water towers' for the rest of the country.

The World's Highest Battleground

The region contains the most significant glacier systems outside the poles, including the 72-kilometre-long Siach

glacier, famous for reasons other than being a water reservoir. The armed conflict between India and Pakistan since tlate '80s has placed this glacier on the world map as the world's highest battleground. One can imagine the subsequedepletion and damage to the fragile glacier caused by over a decade of bombings. Other well-known glaciers situatedthe region like Biafo, Hispaer, Batura, Baltoro, Gasherabrum and Chomolungma Chogolungma are also reportedretreating at a high rate due to multiple reasons including global warming.

Although naturally formed, large glaciers are a gift from God and there might be no way we could recreate the centur-old processes of gradual accumulation. However,, breeding glaciers could be more than a symbolic option ; it wgenerate interest and public awareness for the sustainable use of rapidly vanishing water dripping from the mountains

An Un-named Glacier at Khunerab Pass

A Glacier in Khunjerab National Park


March 2010

5


The author is a development professionaland an analyst, from Skardu, havingbackground in tourism, media and policy

development.

He is also a former elected representative(2005-08) from the Asia Pacific region onthe 'Board of Directors of the Mountain

Forum.

3rd Eye Pakistani Photographers Association


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ubarak Village may be the most popular beach name in Karacafter French Beach but not many beachgoers actually ar

allowed in. We were allowed to and we had our day.

Mubarak Village belongs to an obscure pseudo-Islamic secalled Zikri, made famous by Zikri Daku of Lyari fame. ThZikris often called the Mahdavia are a branch of Islamconcentrated in Makran, Balochistan (Pakistan and Iran), thfollows the teachings of Muhammad Jaunpuri. Zikris do lot things differently to orthodox Muslims. For one, their Hajj doenot occur in Makkah but in fact they have their own Kaaba Koh-e-Murad (Mountain of Desire) located in Turbat, iBaluchistan. However, www.wikipedia.org suggests thZikris perform Hajj at both places - in Mecca as well as at Koh

e-Murad. Secondly, their prayers take place in a room calleIbadat Khana and they don't have to pray namaz; in fact theprostrate and perform their own prayer called Zikir-e-ElahMuslims belonging to other sects are not welcome in here athey consider their places of worship pak (clean) and as onZikris themselves are considered 'pak', only they may enter. Bbeing primarily Baluch, they may allow mehmaans (visitorfor the sake of respect, if not religion..

M

Text and Photography:

Ameer Hamza

The author is a Karachi-based,frequently published freelancephoto journalist, and a travel

photographer. He is also RegionalHead of PPA, Sindh Region. Hiswork is mainly focused on people,

culture, archeology, and travel

documentaries. His work isexhibiting online at

http://www.flickr.com/ameerhamza/and he can be reached [email protected].

A n I solated B each F ront

Mubarik Village



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Our purpose wasn't religious by any stretchof the imagination. We were very curiousabout the beach and the people who livedthere so one day we just went there. And wewere stopped at the gates. Generally, as pertheir community rules, they disallow men-only contingents to enter as they fear thatmen and boys will tease their womenfolk.But we went past the gates courtesy of our

friend, Iqbal bhai.

The beach was spot clean - something I hadnever seen in Pakistan. We have lots ofwonderfully located beaches but all areextremely polluted and one may not bathe inthem. Here, at Mubarak Village, waters areclean and shades of emerald green may beseen amidst blues and whitish brown sandsand the rocks. Fishing is good and localsbeing extremely fine fishermen find time todo so. They even load to the brim and go out

at sea to do heavy fishing.

Pretty faces

of

Mubarik

Village

Their favourite spot is Churna Island, aone-hour boat ride from the village.Monsoons, of course, put that passion torest. Waters are so clean that fishermencan easily spot fish under water.However, when I visited that place, Icould not see any fish despite the factthat there is a sizeable presence of fishin that area.

Apart from the clean waters andextremely good fishing ground,Mubarak Village happens to be awonder f u l t r eas u r e t r ove f o rphotographers who want to shootportraits. The kids are just wonderful,confident and photogenic. They wearsome really heavily embroidered dresses. Culturally one can find a richBaluch heritage within the confines of Karachi (though locals claimthat Mubarak village saddles Baluchistan; and, in any case, theybelong to Baluch tribe called Kurd). Most of them are politically

inclined towards Bhuttos and, therefore, are a staunch PPP vote bank.

Mending the mangled net ain't easy as our country's

politicians would tell you. At Mubarak village things get

a bit easier under a nicely framed hut.

3rd Eye Pakistani Photographers AssociationMarch 2010

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Mubarak Village also has few huts which may be rented for a night for as little as 500Rs. One may also receivpermission for a visit to the actual enclosed village. As women do not observe purdah there (this applies to moagrarian Baluch tribes) prior permission is necessary to avoid any embarrassment.

A trip inside Zikri village is anything but common. Their

homes - built in a peculiar fashion and almost all of themof wood -are unique. The style of windows is verydifferent. Inside, cleanliness is spot on. At one home wefound tremendous amount of carpets, clothes, pillows,chadors and other items. On enquiring we wereinformed that this was the jahez (dowry). But ourinformer quickly added that close relatives and friendsoften share the burden and so the family of bride canrelax a bit. But marriage remains an expensive once-in-a-lifetime item. The couple is expected to pass their goodand bad times and not complain, a common trait in all

traditional set-ups. And the divorce is the end of manyrelationships. In such a tight-knit traditional societyanything and everything off the expected track is fatal.

At Mubarak Village begging is not permitted and visitors are requested not to entertain any beggars, all of which ainvariably school-going kidThey beg for ice cream, fcake, a biscuit or a sweet. Thmay ask you for a 10RsnoDon't give them any money;you wish to help give them footo eat. All items are graceful

accepted by people who ag e n u i n e l y p o o r a noverwhelmingly illiterate.

Well, it is shining hard and faand the skin seems to be turnina bit darker than it usually is.is a clear indication that wmust either leave or retreat the hut. We leave.

Huts on sea shore.

An inside view of a Z ikri House

A complex structure using wood, sea shells, and other itemsmarks a place for worship.

Detail of the Baluchdesign pattern on agirl's kurta


July 2009


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t was May 2009. I was invited to attend the World Congress oNephrology (WCN) in Milan, Italy. Being a doctor, I got thchance to visit different countries. Being an avid lover onature, my focus always is to capture the beauty AllaAlmighty has bestowed upon us humans. Thinking of gointo Italy only brought one name to my mind - Venice, the cit

of canals, palaces and gondolas, the city of love and thlovers.

Venice (Venezia, Venesia), titled by The New York Times athe most beautiful city built by man, is a city located inorthern Italy. The city stretches across 118 small islands ithe marshy Venetian Lagoon along the Adriatic Sea. Famoufor its canals, the city is connected by more than 400 bridges.

The Wor ld ThroughMy EyesA visit to Venice & Murano Island, Italy

I

"If doing was as easy as knowing what doing good, chapels would have been churches and

Hovels humble palaces of princes"

William Shakespeare - "Merchant of Venice"

Text and photography:

Dr. Kiran Nasir

Dear reader,

We are starting new theme for 3rd Eye - The

World Through My Eyes , on regular basis.Under this theme, we will include one peace ofwriteup and related pictures for the travel toany location across the globe - by anyone.This idea is a brain-child of Dr. Kiran Nasir,our respected member of PPA from Karachi,who is a consultant nephrologist byprofession, and a photographer by passion.

The first story of the series is about Venice andMurano Island, Italy, contributed by Dr. Kiranherself. So lets see Venice and Muranothrough her eyes.

Venice: The City of Canals


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The Merchant of Venice, one of the most famous works by William Shakespeare, set in the well-known lagootown, is perhaps one of his most discussed and controversial creations; and, because of it, he was accused of antSemitism by many people. Moreover, it is no coincidence that Venice is used as the background for the story. Venic

is the town of merchants, the symbof a concrete world based on pow

and trading. Today's Venice is mothan ever a city devoted to art, in aits forms. Venice makes you believer in fairy tales. Cars abanned, so the only way to garound this 1,500-year-old city is bfoot or by water. For this reason it also known as the "City of Loverbecause the absence of cars allowpeople to take long and serene walkreached only by the sound of watwashing the shores. It lacks thamusements typical of most largcities, there are no huge discos - butis rich in places where you can eat thtypical Venetian "cicchetti" (smaportions of food usually served wiaperitifs) and drink an excelle"spritz", maybe listening to somgreat musicians playing jazz.

Church of San Mary & Donato

The Glass Museum of Murano Island, The Museo Vetrario

Gandola - The sybmol of Venice


July 2009


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From these vantage points, you'll be awed by the magical beauty. It is filled with palaces and art, fine shopping aexcellent food. Relax in Piazza San Marco, visit the basilicas, and wander the alleyways and bridges. Consider off-season trip to have more of the city to yourself.Anywhere you want to reach, you need to walk sowear comfortable walking shoes.

Restaurants in Venice are famous for their culinaryskills, especially for their fish specialities. Bewareof the prices and the hidden charges.

The classical Venetian boat is the Gondola, althoughit is now mostly used by the tourists, or forweddings, funerals, or other ceremonies. Thegondola is the only boat in the world which, beingjust 11-meters long and weighing more than 600kg,can be steered with agility and easiness by just oneperson and with only one oar. It has become, formillions of tourists, the very symbol of Venice.

Old and Rusty - But Beautiful

Two Gandolas near the shore



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Music on the gondola ride is magic. Most Venetiansnow travel by motorised waterbuses -Vaporetti, whichply regular routes along the major canals and betweenthe city's islands. Many gondolas are lushly appointedwith crushed velvet seats and Persian rugs. Gondolierstypically charge between 80-100 Euros for a 35-minute"giro" or excursion around some canals. The city alsohas many private boats. Visitors can also take the privatewater taxis between areas of the city, and to visit

different islands. They charge you a fortune, but giveprivacy and luxury. If you visit Venice, then it's a must tovisit The Murano Island. Murano is the most famous ofthe Venetian Islands, and the most visited, courtesy ofthe famous glass masters that produce the popular "Murano Glass". The people of Venice have been making crystand glass since the 10th Century. Fans of glass should also plan a visit to the Glass Museum of Murano, The MuseVetrario, where you can see exquisite pieces and understand more about the process and history of glassmaking iVenice. You should also consider the nearby Church of Saints Mary and Donato (Santi Maria e Donato churchwhich boasts a magnificent mosaic pavement laid down in the 12th Century.What made Murano's glassmakers sspecial? They were the only people in Europe who knew how to make glass mirrors. They also developed or refinetechnologies such as crystalline glass, enamelled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (aventurine

multicoloured glass (millefiori), milk glass (lattimo), and imitation gemstones made of glass. Original Muranglass, hand-blown byauthentic glass masters,i s g e n e r a l l y v e r yexpensive. Murano isstill an exporter oftraditional products likemirrors and glassware,and its factories producemodern items such asfaucet handles, glasslampshades, and electric

chandeliers.

One of the main reasons behind the charms of Venice isthe fact that it seems to be floating upon the waters of the

lagoon. However, thedark truth is that the cityis actually sinking andhas been for centuries.Venice has always livedon borrowed time; it is acity that should not exist

- a whimsical maze ofheavy marble palazzoand churches built uponancient wooden pilingsunk into a salt marsh. Itis a wonder that Venice

survived to the present day to face a threat that mayfinally end the life of this faded beauty: rising sea levelsdue to global climate change and warming.

The Glass Museum of Murano Island, The Museo Vetra

rano traditional Vase

Muranos traditional vase

Italian Glass Work

Murano Glass Chandlers & Mirrors


July 2009


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A unique Land of Saints and

Educated people

CaMea

couple of years ago, a question was asked on the Tariq AShow (formerly called Nilaam Ghar) a famous and longest quiz program of Pakistan Television:Do you knwhere in Pakistan the literacy rate is as high as 100 percen

I am not aware whether or not somebody could answer question; what I do know however, is that I am proud to hmy roots coming from that place called Jabbi Sayyedalso known as Chota Mecca.

A

The author is a development professional, an eco-tourisan amateur photographer, with particular interest in w

and nature photography. He can be reached [email protected]

Jabbi Sayyedan and Sandgala as seen from

Jabbi Sayyedan and Sandgala as seen from Kerni G

Text and photos by: Muzffar H. Bukhari


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Situated in a remote part of Azad Kashmir,within the proximity of famous Pir Panjalrange in the Himalayan mountains, Jabbi

Sayyedan is a small beautiful town ofDistrict Haveli (6,200ft above sea level)with an estimated population of about 2,000.The name Jabbi Sayyedan is given due tothe fact that the population of the villageconsists solely of 'Sadaat-e-Naqvi' descendants of Hazrat Syed Imam Naqi(who was tenth out of the total twelve Imamsof Ahl-e-Bait).

Having a good cover of poplar trees togetherwith fruit trees of apple, apricot, peach,walnut, and pear, the village offers stunningviews from the neighboring places particularly when seen from the heights ofSundgala, a small settlement at hilltop.

Jabbi Sayyedan is a unique place andprobably the only village in whole of theAzad Kashmir which was settled by a Wali

Allah/Saint, Hazrat Syed Umar Shah Bukhari, and home to many othrenowned saints like Syed Molvi Ala ud Din Bukhari, Syed SaifullShah Bukhari, Pir Syed Sikandar Shah Bukhari, Syed Akram Sh

Bukhari, Pir Ghani Shah, and Syed Mir Hasan Matto, to name a feJabbi Sayyedan is locally called Chota Mecca for its religiosanctity/spiritual base, and is widely known throughout Azad Kashmfor its very high literacy rate.

HHD

Snow-capped peaks of Pir Panjal Range in Indian Held-Kashmir

Apricot blossom in S

Apricot tree - full of fruits


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Hazrat Umar Shah sahib was anestablished Islamic scholar, who hadcommand over Arabic, Persian andUrdu languages.He has the honourof having written the first ever

commentary (Tafseer) of the Quranin Persian in the history of Islam. Itis stated that about 200 years ago, thethen Raja of Poonch State gifted the

land of Jabbi Sayyedan on lease toHazrat Sahib in recognition of hisspiritual status and the miraclesassociated to him.

The people of Jabbi Sayyedan arevery intelligent and educated. Theirreligious background is probably themost important factor for anunprecedented literacy rate (100%)prevailing in the village. Saadat-e-Jabbi are into diversified professions

and are scattered throughout thecountry. Many of them are teachers,Islamic scholars, and writers. Otherprofessions include: public serviceemployment, medical, law andjustice, armed services, banking,journalism, nuclear science,

development, showbiz, fine arts, andinformation technology. A smallnumber of people are into agricultureas well.

How to reach there:

Jabbi Sayyeden is accessible from Islamabad via road through four differentroutes. One is Islamabad/Rawalakot/Khaigala/Hajira/Abbaspur/MehmoodGali/Forward Kahuta. The second route is: Islamabad/Kahuta/AzadPattan/Palandri/Trarkhal/Hajira Abbasspur/Mehood Gali/Forward Kahuta.The third route is: Islamabad/Murree/Kohala/Dhirkot/Bagh/Dulli/Lassdanna/Mehmoood Gali/Forward Kahuta. And the fourth route followsthe third one except that from Lasdanna Top one should take a road turningleft leading to Forward Kahuta via Shero Dhara/Haji Pir/Aliabad and HalanShumali. This is the most beautiful route as the snake-like winding roadpasses through high mountains and thick forests. One can enjoy themagnificent view of Pir Panjal Range while travelling on this route. Buses,coasters and Toyota vans ply between Islamabad and Forward Kahuta on adaily basis following the first route. No vehicles ply on other three roadsdirectly from Rawalpindi/Islamabad. From Forward Kahuta one can hire jeepto go to Jabbi via Soli.


Panaroma of Lassdanna - Haji Pir Road near Sherodhara

Haji Pir Pass and Keran Top as seen from Haji Pir - Aliabad Ro

Wild flowers on Aliabad-Hajipir Road


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Places of Tourist Interest

Sandgala: A small village on a hilltop (about 7,300ft above sea level) that offers fantastic scenery to the eyes ovisitors. Its lush green meadows, and view of Pir Panjal range to the north-east, make this place a tourists

paradise. Sandgala is alsofamous as a place of meditation of Hazrat SyedJalalud Din Bukhari (Rehmat-

ullah Allaih), also calledJahania Jahan Gasht for hisextensive travelling all overthe wor ld . An Urs i scelebrated in his memoryevery year at his Ziarat (theplace having thick bunch oftrees where Hazrat Jahania

Jahan Gash used to sit for meditation and prayers during his stay at Sandgala). Sandgala is at a 30-minute jeepride from Jabbi Sayydan. If we opt to hike, it may take up to one hour to reach Sandgala top from Jabbi Sayyedan.

Neelfarry:This is a dhoke (a summer living place of the locals) of Jabbi Sayyedan and situated at an elevation oabout 8,800ft. People who have livestock come to this place and stay here every year from May to SeptemberNeelfary's meadows are extremely beautiful and their views reminiscent of the beautiful Windows VistaWallpapers. Another attraction of Neefarry is Ghuch, a delicious wild fruit that grows on small bushes in areasituated at an elevation of more than or equal to 8,000ft.


Shero Dhara and Bissali Tops as seen from Neelfarry

Keran and Bedori Tops from Sandgala

Sungala Ziarat - Place of meditation ofHazrat Jahanian Jahan Gasht


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Sar: Another one hour hike from Neelfarry (at anelevation of 9,200ft) will take you to a beautifulpond known as Sar. Sar means lake in the locallanguage. The lake is 3-6ft deep and has an areaof about 1km. The source of the water comesfrom melted snow from adjacent mountains, andalso rain water. Sar is extremely beautiful place.Its lush green meadows are like no other. Fromhere one can view Keran Top (10,848ft) towardsthe north-east, Kahuta town towards the west,and a long range of snow-clad peaks of Pir Panjalmountains in the south-east. The summer capitalof Indian-held Kashmir (Srinagar) is located onsouth-eastern side of Sar.

Keran Top is at a hiking distance of about twohours from Sar. It has an elevation of about10,848ft. It is the second highest peak in theneighboring areas. The highest peak is BedoriTop (12,229ft). The view from Keran Top is very

open. Many important places of Indian-heldKashmir like Uri sector, Qazi Nag Range,Shamsa Bari Range, part of Poonch city, and PirPanjal Range can be seen from here. The areas inPakistani-controlled Kashmir that can be seenfrom Keran Top are: Khurshidabad, Neza Pir,Qabroun Wali Dheri Top, Kerni Gali, HajipirPass, Sandgala, Jabbi Sayydean Soli, ForwardKahuta, Basahan Sharif, Hallan Shumali,Khardi, Shero Dhara Top, Bassali Top, andMehmood Gali.


Pir Panjal Peaks as seen from Sar Lake

Sar Lake with Keran Top in Backg

Local guys playing Cricket at Sar in thefoothills of Pir Panjal Mountains


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Bedori Top in Ma


Bedori Top

With the elevation of 12,229ft, Bedori is the highest peak in the adjacent areas of Pakistani-administered Kashmir

Bedroi is at a hike of about four to five hours from Keran Top. Most of the track is straight, following the skyline othe Keran Ridge. However, the last part of the track is really difficult as it is a steep climb of about two-three hourthat starts from the second Bedori peak. Due to the low quantity of oxygen in the air at this place, the hike is verydifficult and people with asthma or heart problems can have severe trouble while attempting to reach the lassummit.

Camping at Kuthnard during Trek to Bedori

Last Summit of Bedori Top Trek


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A panorama of Keran, Bedori, and Pir Panjal Range

Being the highest peak in an area of about 20 km,

Bedori Top offers a very wide horizon of view. ThePir Panjal Range in Indian-held Kashmir is very nearfrom this place, and looks like a snow wall touchingthe sky. If you are lucky enough to find a cloudlessand haze-free sky, you can see many places fromhere including Mangla/Jhelum and many others thatare also visible from Keran Top.

Bisali and Shero Dhara as seen from 2nd Bedori


A trekker, at 2nd Bedori Top


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View of Nullah Betard, Soli and Jabbi from Top ridge of Sorda


Sorda:

Sorda means narrow in the local language. It is a place on

Kahuta/Khurshidabad Road where the gap between twomountains is just a few meters. The Nullah Betard passefrom this narrow gap and ultimately joins the River Poonch15km downstream in the Indian-held Kashmir.

The locals tell an interesting tale about Sorda. They say thain old times, a giant used to live in nearby Sorda. Once hbecame angry on the local community for some reason anstarted blocking the Nullah's flow by throwing huge stoneand clay in it at a point where the two mountain ridges wervery close. His intention was to stop the Nullah's flow sothat the water level may rise and people living upstream o

Betard would drown into it. A Sufi saint also lived thereWhen he came to know about it, he came on the spot and hihard with his stick the ridge that was blocked with and claythat stones. The stick cut through the ridge and a narrowpassage was made that allowed water to pass through itApparently the story is unbelievable, but after seeing thplace, one might not find it difficult to believe it, looking athe structure of the place and the narrow gap between twomountain ridges that allows water to pass through.

A small cut in the ridges that allows water to flowsmall cut in the ridges that allows water to flowA small cut in the ridges that allows water to flow

20


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View of Nullah Betaard and Digwar Town - the bordering village at the Line of Control in Poonch

Chirdikot:

A small town on Kahuta/Abbasspur Road at elevation of about 5,500ft. A blacktopped robranches off from Palangi on ForwaKahuta/Abbasspur Road, and turning left hprovides an alternate access route to Abbasspvia Chirikot. This route is used in winter by tcommercial transporters for commuting ForwaKahuta/Abbasspur when heavy snowfall Mehmood Gali blocks the regular route.

This road remains open throughout the season

it passes through low-lying areas where velittle or no snowfall occurs in winter. One uniqfeature of Chirikot is that it offers the best and closest view of Poonch citiy in Indian-hKashmir. Apart from the city, the runway stripPoonch Airport, village Digwar, some parts of Panjal Range in Indian-held Kashmir, and BedTop, Keran Top, and Sandgala in Azad Kashmare also visible from various points on this road

Zooming in on Poonch City in Indian-Held Kashmir

Tongeri, alongwith Nullah Betard. The snow-clad peaks ofPir Panal range and Kahuta town are also visible



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Cham:

Cham means waterfall in the local language. The Cham islocated at an elevation of 6,130ft and about 15km from JabbiSayyedan via Soli Kalamula/Hillan Road. The road fromSoli to Kalamula is blacktopped, whereas the rest of the roadis a jeep track. The water at Cham falls into a narrow placehalf covered by a big boulder. Since the water falls from avery high point, it produces a big noise and sprinkles

hundreds of thousands of water drops in the air which touchone's face gently when one stops nearby. In the afternoons ofsunny days, these water droplets act like a prism and make abeautiful rainbow. The rainbow's location and angle changesif one changes the point of view. It is undoubtedly a dazzlingscene, which takes one to a totally different world of absolutepurity, free of all kind of hurries and worries.

Hillan:

A few kilometers from Cham, is the beautiful valley of Hillanin the foothills of the Pir Panjal peaks. Hillan is a Y-shaped

valley at 6,697ft,covered with Chira n d D e o d a rforests. It has agreat similarityw i t h N e e l u mValley. The line ofcontrol (LOC) is j u s t a f e wkilometers awayfrom here, and the

famous summers t a t i o n o f Gulmerg (Indian-held Kashmir) is situated at a distance ofjust 40km from Hillan. Due to its close proximity with theLOC, the area is heavily guarded by Pak Army. Non-residents are rarely allowed to enter this valley. Photographyis strictly prohibited. However, if you have some armyconnections, then no area is out of bound for you.


Rainbow at Cham

A 270 degree panorama of Hillan Val

A Young Photog in Hillan

It is undoubtedly a dazzling scenewhich takes one to a totally differe

world of absolute purity


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Thick Forest of Aliabad

Aliabad

Having a thick cover of Chir, Conifer and Deodarforests, Aliabad (6,610 ft) is a small army station

located at a distance of about 20 km from ForwardKahuta on Kahuta - Haji Pir Road. The area islush green and due to thick forest cover, thetemperature is very pleasant in summer. Winter

March 2010

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season witnesses heavy snow-fall in this area and the road remablocked due to snow for most of the time during December to Mar

Aliabad is in foothills of Haji Pir Pass and a sensitive area wsecurity point of view. Photography is not allowed near the arinstallations.

Over looking Aliabad from Reza Camp.


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Zooming in on Haji Pir Hajipir Pass and Keran Top

Looking at Qazi Nag Range in Indian-Held Kashmir - from West of Haji Pir Pass

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Situated at an elevation of 8,631 ft, and at a distance of about 15 km from Aliabad, Haji Pir is a historical pass thprovides connectivity to Uri in Indian-held Kashmir. It is another army base and therefore a very sensitive areaterms of security. A barrier is placed by the Pakistan Army at the entrance of the Pass, where every visitor (a

particularly the non-resident) undergoes a detaisearch. Photography is strictly prohibited and one canntake camera beyond this point.

Haji Pir pass was captured by the Indian Army in Aug1965 in response to an ill and haphazardly plannOperation Gibraltar by Pakistan Army. However, area was returned to Pakistan by India following signing of the Tashkent Agreement on 10 January 1966

A 25 km blacktopped road from here leads to Bhedi. Uin Indian-held Kashmir is another 7 km away froBhedi. A jeepable track from Bhedi leads to Uri but troute is currently abandoned.

Haji Pir pass provides a wonderful and wide open view

Keran Top in Azad Kashmir, and the whole Qazi NRange in Indian-held Kashmir. Haji Pir is called

because right on the Pass there is the shrine of Hazrat Haji Pir, a Sufi saint from the Bukhari family. Every visitorthis area stops at this shrine to offer Fateha (pray for the eternal peace of the buried). Every year an Urs (annucelebration) is also held in his memory, attended by a large number of people from near and far.

View of Indian-Held Kashmir from Haji Pir Pass


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Lassdanna:

At a distance of about 20km from HajiPir Pass, Lasdanna is a beautifulstation on top of a hill at an elevationof 8,473ft . The place offerscaptivating scenes and a wide-openview of the surrounding area and itsnatural beauty. From Lasdanna, threeroads branch off the main road: i.e.Lasdanna Mahmood Gali/ForwardK a h u t a ; L a s d a n n a / H a j iPir/Aliabad/Forward Kahuta; andL a s d a n n a / T o l i p i r R a w a l a k o t .Lasdanna to Tolipir is a jeepable track.

A few kilometers short of Lasdanna isthe Shero Dhara - a peak with anelevation of about 10,ft. You can reachShero Dhara Top through a one and ahalf hour hike from the main

Lasdanna-Haji Pir Road. The top isthe second highest peak in theneighboring area - the highest peak isBissali which is another one and a halfhour's hike away from here. One canhave a 360-degree wide view of thearea from this top. Bedori Top, KeranTop, Sar, and a long range of PirPanjal mountains are visible from thisplace.

A rest house is available at Lasdannafor stay. The room charges are verynominal - Rs.600 per night .Reservation is made through theTourism Officer, AK TourismDepartment, District Bagh.

Lasdanna - in April

View of Bedori, Keran and Pir Panjal Range from Shero Dhara Top

Shero Dhara and Bissali Tops from Lasdanna Rest HousLasdanna Top and Dhulli Nullah as seen fromtrek to Shero Dhara

March 2010

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Wildlife:

Jabbi Sayyedan used to be very rich in terms of wildlthree/four decades ago. However, continued habidestruction, and a tremendous decline in forest covethe area, on account of increased population aurbanization, caused severe damage to flora and fauleading to drastic reduction in the wildlife speciMajor mammalian fauna found in District Haveli aCommon Leopard, Black Bear, Musk Dear, FoRhesus Macaque, Asiatic Jackal, and Wolf. Apart frthis, there are many sightings of lions reported by tlocal community of the area. Many people living nforest-covered areas, complain that lions do come eveyear from the Pir Panjal mountains and eat th

livestock in the fields. Many residents of Jabbi Sayyedan claim that every year in winters lions visit the burial placof a number of saints buried in the graveyard of the village. They believe that this wild beast does it as a gestureshowing respect for those saints. However, there is no scientific evidence of the Lion's presence in the region. The lremnant of the Asiatic Lion, which in historical times ranged from Greece to India through Persia, lives in the GForest National Park in the Indian State of Gujrat, where about 359 lions are reported to live in a 1,412 km sanctuaPeople of Jabbi Sayyedan, in fact, often confuse common leopards with lions.

Avian fauna of Jabbi Sayyedan and the surrounding areas include: Kashmir Rollar, Streaked-Laughing Thrush, BRock Thrush, Nielgari, Yellow-Billed Chough, Pied Bushchat, Oriental White Eye, Yellow-billed Blue MagpAsian Paradise Flycatcher, Red-vented Bulbul, White-cheeked Bulbul, Common Stonechat, Himalayan GriffVulture, Shikra, Golden Eagle, and Himalayan Monal. In good old days, Golden Pheasant was also found in forests of Hillan Valley.

Staying:

Unfortunately, no adequate staying arrangements are available in or near Jabbi Sayyedan as yet. The nearest availabtourism rest house is at Lasdanna about 40 km from Jabbi Sayyedan. Though there is a forest rest house at ForwKahuta (12kmshort of Jabbi Sayyedan), it is not available for general public use, since it is under the Army's use sinlong. There are a few small hotels in Forward Kahuta, but their environment and food is highly unhygienic. If you interested to visit this area, camping would be the best option.

Yellow-Billed Blue Magpie

A Juvenile of Pied Bushchat

Rehesus Macaque or Rehesus Monkey


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alash is located approximate 36 km, two hoursdrive away on the south side of Chitral City, in thefoot of Hindukush mountains near AfghanBorder. The road is very rough and scenic.Chitral consists of three valleys namelyBumburet, Rumbur, and Birir. The totalpopulation of this tribe, in all three valleys, isapproximate 4,000. They have a unique culture,which is different from the other tribes living inthe surrounding area. They speak Kalashlanguage but majority of them can speak andunderstand Urdu and Pashtoo as well.

According to Kalashis, some of the soldiers ofAlexander the Great (B.C 327) who got fed upwith fighting and bloodshed, deserted and hidthemselves in these mountains. The present Kalashis are said to bedescendants of those Greek soldiers. Researchers from Greece regularly

this place. They have setup many schools and health units in this area. Grehas also provided aid and built a museum in Bumburet.The high mountains of Hindukush have helped preserve their culture traditions for centuries. In the late 70s, a road was built connecting Kavalley to Chitral city, which was a blessing for the locals as well as the tourAfter the road's construction, the tourists began to visit Kalash quite frequeand this beautiful valley, its local community, and the mysteries associatethe people and culture of Kalash became known to the outer world.

K

KalashalashThe Lost Tribe

Text and Photography:

Shafqat Mirza

K


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Kalashi women wear long black embroideredgowns, and on their heads they wear anornamental cap, and a hair band decorated withshells and beads. They wear a number ofnecklaces made of yellow, red and whitebeads. Usually they visit Chitral with the samedress but they wear shalwar qamiz whiletraveling to other parts of the country and alsouse it as a night suit. Normally one woman

owns three to four dresses at a time but theywear a new dress on their festivals. Kalashimen wear shalwar qamiz and Chitrali cap withfeathers on front side.

The women go to bashalani for child birthand stay there for ten days. They also go thereduring their menstruation period and stay therefor four days. During this period, andchildbirth, women are not allowed to go home.Her family sends food to her during this time.

Usually girls get married between the age 15 to20. They are allowed to choose their lifepartners by their own free will. If a girl wantsto get married with someone she will go to hishome and start living with him for a couple ofweeks; after that she will come back to herfather's home. The boy then shall ask for herhand in marriage and will gives the bride'sfather, goats, cows and money.A married woman is allowed to change her

husband and marry another man. In this case,the new husband has to pay the formerhusband, double the number of goats, sheep,cows, and money etc that the former husbandhad given to the father of the woman at the timeof his marriage. This custom is called Dongrakin local language.There are three main festivals in a year. Firstone is called Chillam Joshi (spring) which isheld at the start of the spring season, from 12 to

15 May. The second one is called Uchau(autumn) which is held from 20 to 23 Augustand the final one is called Chaumus (winter) inmid of December of every year. The reason forcalling it as Chaumus lots of goats are alteredon this occasion. In the word Chaumus. musmeans meat. The people also enjoy music, anddance during these festival.


Bashalni - Where Kalashi womengo to give birth to children

Jewelry worn by local Wom

Kalashi girl in typical dress


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In their early age, Kalashis are very beautiful withblond hairs and light eyes. However, due to severeclimatic conditions of the area and a tough lifestyletheir beauty starts diminishing from the age of 20.

The area is very fertile and plenty of water isavailable. The people grow wheat, maize, walnutsapricots, apples, peaches and grapes. There are

number of trees of mulberries, which are dried andused in the winter season as fuel wood. They makewine with grapes at their homes and most ofKalashi men and women drink it.

Music and dance is so much into their souls that Kalashidance and sing even on deaths. Fifty years back they used toleave the dead bodies in wooden coffins in graveyard.However, now they have started burying the dead bodiesbecause people lately started steeling the skeletons andornaments of the dead bodies from the coffins and sellingthe same to foreigners for the want of money. Nevertheless,still some open wooden coffins along with bones can beseen in graveyards.

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Remains of human body in a Kalashi Graveyard in

A Landscape in Kalash

Delicious Chitrali Apples


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Over the time more than three thousand people haveconverted to Islam; these Muslims are called Sheikhs. Afterbecoming Muslim the women stop using their traditionaldress and men remove feathers from their caps. If any Kalashconverts to Islam, he is not allowed to stay in the same villageof Kalashis but they start living nearby. The main doors of allMuslims are closed whereas doors of Kalashis remain openand they welcome visitors. They offer them local grapes wineand dry fruit. Due to frequent interaction with the

international as well as domestic tourists, and improvedaccessibility of the area, the cultural dynamics are vulnerableto change in near future. According to a careful estimate, innext 20 years Kalashi culture and traditions will die outbecause of education and their interaction with other parts ofthe world. Most of young and educated Kalashis don't liketheir customs.

The literacy rate in the valley is very high and there is hardlyany child who is not school going. There are number ofschools and one intermediate college in the area. Many

children are studying in big cities like Peshawar, Islamabadand Lahore.

How to get there

By Air: Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) operates oneflight on daily basis form Islamabad to Chitral. The flyingtime is 45 minutes and return fare for one person is approx Rs.9,600. Jeep charges from Airport to Bumburet are betweenRs.1,200 to 3,000. However, public transport from Chitral toBumburet is also available. You can reach Bumburet fromChitral on public transport at a nominal fair of Rs. 70/- per

person.


Upon reaching airport one must go directly to office in Chitral city to re-confirm his seat for reflight.

By Road:

One can opt to go by road as well. From Islamabadroute will be; Islamabad - Mardan - MalakaChakdara - Timargara - Dir - Lawari - Chitral - DarAyun - Bumburet.

Where to Stay

There are approximately 24 small and medium

hotels located in Bumburet, which are veconomical. You can easily get one double bed rwith attached bath between Rs. 300 to 800. If yowith family then the best place to stay is PTDC Mwhich charges Rs. 1900 to 2400 per night. No mwhere you stay, it is recommended that you dinPTDC Motel, as the food there is hygienic comparother hotels. Guides are also available at a nomrate of Rs. 100 per day.

A Kalashi School

A beautiful stream in Kalash


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For those, traveling to Chitral byRoad, a table is presented to show

different towns en-route toKalash Valleys and the traveltime required for moving fromone place to another. The traveltimes are applicable for self-driving vehicles.

The author is a developmentprofessional, and a hobbyistphotographer who has been

traveling to north side of

Pakistan since last 14 years forhiking and photography. Thisarticle is based on the direct

knowledge he gained from thelocals, and his own

observations. He has visitedthere multiple times, and hasdeveloped very good relationswith the locals. It helped him a

lot in write this. He can bereached at

[email protected]

Lawari Top in July

From To Road condition Du

Islamabad Mardan Motorway 2

Shergarh

Sakha Kot

Dargai

Malakand

Batkhela

Timergara

Timergara Dir Black-top Road 1.5

Lawari TopDarosh

Darosh Ayun 80 % is mateled road, 20 %

track is jeep able

1

Ayun Bumburet Maintained Jeep able track but

cars can also travel

1

Mardan Block-top Road 2

Dir Well maintained jeep abletrack.

Cars can be used too4


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hat is Macro Photography?

E s s e n t i a l l y i t m e a n s t a k i n gphotographs of really small things.Macro photos are shot at 1:1 or athigher magnifications like 2x, 3x, 4x,5x etc. 1:1 means life size picture of thesubject i.e at 1:1 magnification yoursubject will cover whole imaging area(film or sensor) of digital camera. This

is usually applicable on DSLR camerasand magnification ratio is determinedby the lens you use. In Point and Shootcameras there is so called macro modethat helps user to focus at closedi s t ance but i t has f ar l es smagnification than 1:1

W

Focus stacked two photo to keep both bugs in sharp focus. Lens used: 100 macro lens

Ethics of

MacroPhotographyMacro Photography - tips and techniqu


The author is a founder member of PPA. He sta photography as a hobby in 2004. He has evolved professional photographer providing freel photography services to several organizations. Naminiatures, ancient monuments , mosques, and peoplehis favourite subjects.

Ladybug shot usinCanon 100mmmacro lens withexternal flash


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Going Macro

Macro Lenses: DSLR users can buy macro lenses. Thereare a number of options available which will give youtrue 1:1 pictures. Canon's MP-E65 mm creates images at5:1 ratio that means a single grain of rice will coverwhole film area!

Extension tubes: Extension tubes are hollow tubes

added between the lens and the DSLR to help achievehigher magnification ratio.

Reverse Lens: Reversing the lens in front of the DSLRwith the help of an adapter will allow you to take close-ups without spending a lot in macro gear, but it has itslimitations. With this technique point-and-shoot userscan also achieve higher magnification.

Close-up Filters: These are screwed onto the front ofthe zoom lens to give some boost in magnification ratio.

Tips and Tricks

Here are few critical things to master for the best macroresults.Focus

Focusing is the toughest job in macro the higher themagnification the greater chance of being out of focus.Auto focusing is usually not possible due to highermagnification. To overcome this issue I usually set mylens to manual focusing and set the focus to the desired

magnification on the lens, then move back and forth toachieve focus and hold where the desired spot is inperfect focus.

Tip: Use a mono pod this is going to increase yourkeeper ratio dramatically by keeping the camera steadyat the focus point and reducing motion blur.

Lightning: As depth of field (DOF) is extremelyshallow at large aperture, one has to use aperture as highas F8 this significantly increases the demand of light.

External flash is going to be extremely helpful here, as itis going to illuminate the subject very well. It will alsoeliminate chances of motion blur caused by camerashake.

Tip: Use off shoe cord and diffuser for your flash formore natural and pleasing results.

Choosing the best lens for Macros

If you don't have any experience in macro photographyhardships it brings, I recommend you start with the relens option. If you are a point-and-shoot user get an adaptyour camera model and put any of the compatible lenses for DSLR/SLR (ideally in 50mm range with large apertu

front of your camera lens and try to take photos techniques mentioned above. This option is great for bDSLR shooters too.

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For DSLR users looking to buy a macro lens, if youshoot a lot of insects, etc, get 100mm or another above-range macro lens. If you are limited to flowers, etc, a 50-60mm range will be just fine. The image-stabilizedmacro lens by Canon or VR macro lens by Nikon arealso in the market but they are tested useless for high

magnification shots.Sigma and Tokina areg r e a t t h i r d - p a r t yo p t i o n s . T h e y a l lprovide 1:1 or 1Xmagnification and youcan add extension tubesif you want to increasemagnification. Theselenses are great forportraits too. Prices

range from 400$ to 1000$ depending on the focal lengthand image-stabilization options.

Macro Shot of An Ant taken with 50mm Reverse lens on a point and shoot camera

People who want to rock the world at 5X magnificatioshould get Canon's MP-E65. This specialized lens cosaround 800$ and lack focusing at infinity this makesuseless for other purposes.

Final words

Macro photography isan extremely vast topicwith tons of things totalk about includingm a t h e m a t i c s a n dendless accessories. Theabove article is based onmy own observations,experience and thetechniques. For anyfurther questions contact me at +923455400315, or vimy website www.awaisyaqub.com.


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The man w ho show ed W indow t o

3rd Eye: Tell us something about where did you

grow up, and how long have you been doing the

photography etc.

GR: I was born in Gujranwala on 24th July 1976 and

was a student of accounting in my college times..

Since my childhood, I have been fond of colors

around me. I can recall my observations of going

after the birds and listening their songs, watching's

the flying kites and bubbles of the early mon-soon

rain. Countless such experiences are in my memory.

I learnt Calligraphy and tried a painting by myownself but the school studies never let me get time

for this. I got my first camera A Yashica electro 35

in 1989 when I was in class 8 and took the first few

pictures of my life. It was a sunrise reflection in a

pond near my house in Gujranwala.

3rd Eye: Did you have a formal education inphotography? If yes, from where and when?


GR MughalInterviewing

The W il dlif e of Pakist an

GR: I don't have any formal education photography and I learnt everything from boomagazines, internet and from my friends in the fie

3rd Eye: You were a student of Accounting? Wmotivated you to adopt photography asprofession?

GR: I am a nature-lover by nature. Imaginestudent, sitting in his room solving mathematipuzzles of accountancy and suddenly some bcomes on the wall and utters few notes and

student leaves everything behind and goes outwatch the bird. He forgets everything when he seabeautiful sunset. Well I used to work hard bucould not kill my feelings for nature and close mears and eyes from the phenomena of nature. I hno other choice but to do something to witness tbeauty of nature and share it with others. I wfeeling suffocated as if somebody is killing mslowly hence I decided do photography essentiafor my own soul.

W

Interviewer: Muzaffar H. Bukhari

hile talking about wildlife photographyin Pakistan, the first name that comesto the peoples mind is none other thanGhulam Rasool Mughal - anaccomplished, and widely knownnature / wildlife photographer inPakistani photographers community. He is not only an outstandinphotographer, but also a very good birdwatcher, and his bird identificationcapabilities are unquestionable.

In Ist week of March 2010, Mr GR Mughal held a solo exhibition of hiswork on nature and wildli fe photography in a gallery in Karachi.This display was rightly titled as TheWindow to Wildlife of Pakistan. Theexhibition got an overwhelmingresponse from the general public as

well as the photographic community ofKarachi.

At this occasion we managed to havean interview session with him. Theinterview aimed at letting the readersof the 3rd Eye know more about him. Sohere we go.


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GR and his shooting gun - 600 mm F:4 L USM3rd Eye: What genre of photographdid you adopt in the beginning oyour carrier?

GR: In the beginning, I was fond ophotographyevery type ophotography but I used to love thn a t u r e a n d l a n d s c a p e sProfessionally I survived i

photography by doing generphotography which to shoot as pclient's demand. It ranges frowedding shoots to commercials anassignments of all sorts.

3rd Eye: Why did you choose tbecome a wildlife photographer?

GR: Because I used to spend time chasingthe birds in the gardens and listening theirsongsI could never feel so much peace andsatisfaction as I felt when going for birding.Actually I am a nature photographer wholoves every type of life but does wildlifephotography especially.

3rd Eye: What is the source of your learningabout wildlife photography?

GR: My brotherly friend Dr. AhmadShahzad, who gifted me many books of the

birds of Pakistan and taught me about thewildlife of Pakistan, its uniqueness ingeography, flora and fauna. He played thekey role to motivate me.

3rd Eye: Who are your competitors inPakistan? How do you rate them?

GR: I don't know who are the competitors soI cannot rate them at all.

3rd Eye: If you could shoot with anotherphotographer who would it be and why?

GR: It would be Jay Maisel because of hisun-paralleled style of capturing the last raysof available light, and Frans Lanting for hisun-compromised nature photography.


March 2010

Beautiful beach of Balochistan


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3rd Eye: You seem to be focused only on avian fauna,as we don't see other forms of fauna in your pictures.Why so?

GR: Its just because of chance that you could not seemy whole photography.

3rd Eye: If you are restricted to do either avian

photography or landscapes? What would be yourchoice, and why?

GR: I would go avian photography at first andlandscape at second

3rd Eye: What do you feel is the most challenging thing about wildlife photographing?

GR: To capture the essence on the bird. A shot which actually describes the bird's individual qualities in the wilFor example; a seed eater or a fish hunter

3rd Eye: Have you ever had a "close encounter" with a dangerous animal in an attempt to get the perfect photo?

GR: Yes; it happened when I was photographing the blue faced barbet in Margalla Hills, a female wild boar wikids came in my way charged towards me then suddenly I picked up a big stones and crashed it over the stonpathway and the loud sound of the hit distracted that female and I was saved on that day.

3rd Eye: What do you think of the wildlife photography at present and where do you see it in next five years?

GR: Wildlife photography is the most desirable form of photography right now to create awareness and educathe people about its beauty and the charisma. I want to have a production house platform to do work for educatinthe general public. I want to see myself established in wildlife photography to represent the true picture oPakistan's unique bio-diversity.

3rd Eye: How many wildlife shoots you do you in a year - on average?

GR: 40 to 50

3rd Eye: What is your favourite wildlife place, and why?

GR: Khunjarab and Deosai plains. The wildlife and thspecies you see thereare very much restricted in those areaTop of the world, above tree line, perfect wilderness

3rd Eye: Which is your most favourite picture from your ow

portfolio, and why?

GR: A mating pair of white winged redstartthat I captured Khunjerab National Park. The courtship of this bird is sunique in style and it was snowing at that moment. Normallthis species lives and is restricted above the tree line. Thrare scene made the image kind of Picture of the touindeed.



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3rd Eye: What are the basic essentials of wildlifephotography?

GR: Patience, peace from inside, observation andlot of knowledge about the subject so that you mayimprovise the behavior of the particular subject.Extreme physical fitness and the art of usingcamouflage and good equipment to work with inextreme weather conditions are also extremely

important.

3rd Eye: Do you do any research prior to going outon the field? How important it is.

GR: It is more important than doing photographyitself, I think

3rd Eye: Is it important to study a lot about species'behavior to get the perfect shot?

GR: Yes of course, it is very much important tostudy and know everything about the specificspecies because you cannot get the best shot of thatspecies if you do not know the habits and the waysof your subject.

3rd Eye: Many people believe that "the gun mattersmore than the man behind the gun". What is yourview on this? Please elaborate for our readers.

GR: Though, the man behind the gun matters morethan the gun but then the gun should be a gun.

You cannot fire a canon ball with an air gun.

3rd Eye: What equipment you generally take alongwith you when you are in the field?

GR: Well it depends whether I am going on a car ofwalking in hills. Usually, I take only two cameraswith two lenses and a tripod only to do my jobwhen I am trekking but I carry the whole stuff whenI am traveling in a car.

3rd Eye: What brand of camera and lenses youpersonally like, and Why?

GR: I like Canon because it is much easy and userfriendly and the pro-controls can be accessed evenwithout moving your eye from the scene. Apartfrom that, fast and accurate focus, power and speedof frames offered by Canon produce images ofunmatched quality.

3rd Eye: If you had to choose one lens which one would it band why?

GR: Well that depends what I am going to shoot.for birphotography, I would go for 800 mm or 600 mm but fmammals and large animals I would prefer to use 400 m

lens. For landscapes I would go for 16-35mm and 70-200 mm

3rd Eye: Other accessories required for wildlife shooting?

GR: A fast and dependable camera body, a sufficient foclength of the lens, a lot of battery power and storage capaciA sturdy tripod and drab colored clothes with a head covaccording to the location

3rd Eye: Do you plan on buying any new equipment and if what do you have your eyes on?

GR: Well right now I don't intend to buy any other equipmebut I will buy a new camera body, Canon EOS 1D Mark Iwith Canon EF 800mm Lens.

3rd Eye: Are you a freelance photographer, or you work fsome organization?

GR: Well I work for WWF-Pakistan. However, I do othassignments as well as a freelance photographer.

3rd Eye: From the carrier point of view, what are the futu

prospects for a Wildlife Photographer in Pakistan?

GR: Well, photography as a whole is not yet recognized our art institutions and the prospects are limited till the timphotography is duly regarded as a form of art. Wildliphotography is much more challenging, demanding and times, dangerous as well due to the criminal and un educatpeople in our society.

3rd Eye Pakistani Photographers Association38 March 2010


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3rd Eye:Is there a place where you wanted tobut haven't had the chance yet? Any particsubject you wanted to shoot, but haven't hadchance?

GR: Korambar and Baroghal Lakes photographing life cycle of migratory birds anthe Chitral mountains to photography the Aslynx and snow-leopard

3rd Eye: How important is Photoshop in final images?

GR: It is important for color corrections, removals and preparing the images presentations and printing purposes. It plays arole in the whole process because starting fdownloading to presentation or printing, it iPhotoshop that I use.

3rd Eye: What is your most used Photoshop plug-in, etc.?

GR: Camera raw image converter, Color LeHealing brush and Nik 3.0 plug-in filter.

3rd Eye: Do you think you have mastered CrArt workflow, can you briefly describe forreaders your photographic workflow after a sin wild?

GR: Well: my workflow has generally six step

download the images in a folder using AdBridge, (ii) review the whole lot carefulladobe bridge and tag the selected photos for selection, (iii) group the final imagedifferent sets depending on nature of the ima

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(iv) open each group in Adobe Camera RawConverter and check for white balance, dust spots andother details, (v) convert the desired images into PSDformat, and (vi) finally save the copy of the selectedimages in JPG format.

3rd Eye: Which wildlife Photographer inspires you!And why?

GR: Frans Lanting for its creative control over thediverse subjects of wildlife photography.

3rd Eye: What photographic organizations do youbelong to?

GR: PSA-Photographic Society of America, and PakisPhotographers Association.

3rd Eye: What would you be, if not a wildlife photographer?

GR: A painter or wildlife researcher.

3rd Eye: What are your political views?

GR: Democracy, rule of law, and a uniform education sysfor every individual of the society.

3rd Eye: What is the biggest issue of Pakistan, and what isway forward to resolve that?


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GR: Lack of quality formal antechnical education, and pogovernance. The resolution is; qualieducat ion for a l l , and s t r iaccountability mechanism to be place.

3rd Eye: What is the particular thin

you are still learning?

GR: How to take better wildlipictures and how to store, manage anretrieve the data so that you don't endpiles of photographic data excehaving good access over the images insystematic way

3rd Eye: What or who is the greatelove of your life?


March 2010

GR: I have to think on it but I cannot findone because I love nature in all of itsforms. Whether it is a beautiful eye or it isan emerging leaf bud in the spring, I loveeverything.

3rd Ear: What is your greatest fear?

GR: My fear is this that Pakistan as awhole is going towards decline in qualityeducation and it is prone to corruption.

The society has no respect for nature andwildlife so I might not be able to work andproduce as much I want and pray for. Icannot go alone with my stuff to reallywild areas because I remain afraid ofdacoits (I was even looted once, nearGujranwala - just 5 km off the GT Road).But the biggest fear of all is the absence ofthe people who really love and respectthis art and if Pakistani Government didnot own it, I will be left with no choice but

to do something else for my survival. Youcan say that wildlife photography is thebiggest risk that I took and still limpingalong with it.

3rd Eye: If you could have lunch withanyone who is famous who would it be?

GR: Don't knowNo answer

3rd Eye: Your favourite film(s) ofall time?

GR: Dances with wolves,Legendsof the fall,Alaska,Life is beautiful,The shooter and The "Bourne"series, are my all time favourites.

3rd Eye: First thing you would doif you won the lottery?

GR: I would buy another cameraset and a house for my living andthen a vehicle to go in the wildareas. Buy a big land, develop itinto a natural forest or farm houseand live there in the company ofNature.

3rd Eye: Which five words wouldyour friends use to describe you?

GR: Dependable, trustworthy,thoughtful, friendly and straight-forward

3rd Eye: What ambition have younot yet achieved?

GR: A well composed coffee tablebook, a wildlife film about Pakistan

matching the in terna t ionstandards, and photographing tsnow leopard in his huntingrounds.

3rd Eye: What would you like to bdoing in 5 years from now?

GR: I will be working on film anphotography projects on self finance basis and running a wildli

stock agency in Pakistan. permanent photography art gallewith loads of wildlife books ansoulful atmosphere

3rd Eye: If you could live anywheon this awesome planet whewould you build your dream home

GR: Probably I would not leathis place until and unless, I a

forced to do so. In that case, I woulive in Canada.

3rd Eye: Ever risked your life fophotograph?

GR: I was in Naltar Valley anto take a photo of Naltar LakComplex in one shot, I slippe


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down straight from a rock and got injuredmy left leg and finger tips of both hands.With bleeding fingers and trembling legs,I completed the sequence. I would havedied in an instance, had i not left thecamera and held the sharp edge of therock.

3rd Eye: Your unforgettable experience inthe field, and why it is so?

GR: It was during Makran Coast

Assignment. I was traveling along the beach,

from west bay Gwadar to Jiwani. I saw few

Humpback Dolphins playing in the waves

very close to the beach. I was improvising

their surfacing movements to capture one

good shot. After 45 minutes of continuous

chase in the waves with my lens, I was almost

exhausted but in the last moment, a young

Humpback Dolphin came into my frame,

made a big splash and jumped out and landedinto the sea. This jump made a 180 degrees

rotation and I was lucky enough to capture it

in 14 frames with high speed camera. I turned

off the camera after that and started shouting

loudlyIt was the most memorable moment

of my life.

3rd Eye: What advice do you have for

somebody who wants to become a nature and

specifically wildlife photography?

GR: Observe the subject before you take

pictures, Don't think that you have taken the

best shot so keep on trying for the best shot

which satisfies you. Wear relatively grey

clothes without flourescent or sharp colored

markings. Talk less and listen more. Eat less

and see more.

3rd Eye: What is the minimum required

gear to start with wildlife shooting?

Please consider the budget factor as well.

GR: Any camera with at least 300mm

lens and a tripod.

3rd Eye: Do you have your own websiteor blog? Can you share the link for our

readers?

GR: www.ghulamrasool.com

3rd Eye: And the last but not the least, if

you are assured that your one wish will

be fulfilled, what it would be?

GR: This interview shouldnt have been

this much long(laughter)

3rd Eye: Thanks for your time GR.

March 201041


The exhibition Window to Wildlife of Pakistan in photographers ownwords:

"This exhibition is A journey oftransforming my soulful experiences intoreality. Whether it was the lonely starlitnight in the deserts of Cholistan or theeagles flying over frozen rivers of

Baltistan, the first light falling on thesnow covered Himalayas or the vast

fields of millions of wild flowers inDeosai, whether it was the song of thenightingale in the early hours of twilightin Hingol or the sound of the gushingsprings in Palas valley, countless suchclose experiences with nature spoke tomy heart saying; ' its all here'telling methat the answer of all my questions iswritten hereI just had to, ponder andcontemplate and reflect them for othersto know the truth. I have a firm belief thatthese signs of nature are in fact telling us

everything related to very reason of ourexistence and the ultimate destinyawaiting us.


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oing through Indus Highway from Dera Ismail Khan toPeshawar, the Sheikh Badin Hill lies on the east of Pezuat an altitude of 1,400m above sea level

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