3D Printer Workshop (Bitraf, April 2015)

Jens Chr Brynildsen / @jenschr

bitraf.no

Wednesday, April 15, 15

3D PRINTER WORKSHOPBitraf, September 24 2014

Jens Chr Brynildsen @jenschr / jenschr på gmail


OVERVIEW• How does our printers work?

• What software should you download?

• Printing workflow

• Finding 3D models online

• How to solve common problems

• ABS printing

• How to make your own 3D models


HOW DOES OUR PRINTERS WORK?


ULTIMAKER ORIGINAL


ULTIMAKER 2


FRAME


ON / OFF


WHEN THE LAST PERSON LEAVES -ALL 3D PRINTERS ARE TURNED OFF.

LONG PRINT? STAY AND READ A BOOK...


4 AXIS


X & Y AXIS


Z-AXIS


ENDSTOPS


BUILD PLATFORM


PLASTIC FEEDING


HOTEND


EXTRUDER


BOWDEN TUBE


ULTICONTROLLER


OTHER PRINTERS?

• All printers will have similar features/equipment

• All you learn today will apply to other machines, but the physical layout may be different

• Open Source printers encourage you to learn & print

• Closed Source printers encourage you to print

• Bitraf encourages Open Source


WHAT SOFTWARE SHOULD YOU DOWNLOAD?


FOR ALL USERS

Download Curahttp://software.ultimaker.com

(Windows, Mac, Linux)


http://software.ultimaker.com/

http://software.ultimaker.com/

CURA


PLASTICS


PLA

• melts at 50-70C

• brittle / will snap

• fully renewable

• very easy to use

• needs a fan


PLA ABS

• melts at >110C

• rugged / LEGO plastic

• made from oil

• requires special care

• needs a heated bed

• melts at 50-70C

• brittle / will snap

• fully renewable

• very easy to use

• needs a fan


OTHER PLASTICS

• PLA/ABS with additives

• PET (Polyethylene terephthalate) / XT

• Nylon / PC (Polycarbonate) / HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene)

• NinjaFlex, EcoFlex, FlexiFil, Rubber-like

• Woodfill/Copperfill, Laywood/Laybrick/BendLay

• Poro-Lay (porous, fibrous, foam, felt, jelly consistency)

• PVA (AquaSolve), thermocromatic


http://www.proto-pasta.com/

http://www.proto-pasta.com/

http://madesolid.com/pet+.html%23colors

http://madesolid.com/pet+.html%23colors

http://colorfabb.com/xt-copolyester

http://colorfabb.com/xt-copolyester

http://taulman3d.com/

http://taulman3d.com/

Image by George Roberts, http://gr5.orgWednesday, April 15, 15

http://gr5.org/

http://gr5.org/

FILAMENT TIPS• We have some donated plastic here to play with. YMMV

• The “cheap plastic” is often expensive if time is a cost

• Buy your own plastic to learn what you are printing with

• Buying from a renowned vendor will save you time and grief (use Ultimaker, Faberdashery, DiamondAge, Ultimachine, GRFF or Protoparadigm)

• Colorfabb’s PLA/PHA mixture can be difficult to work with unless you only print with that one plastic. It’s more sticky...


Ball Bearing in filament? Image by RichRap, http://richrap.blogspot.no/2012/06/jammed-frggn-nozzle-30doc-days-1518.htmlWednesday, April 15, 15

http://richrap.blogspot.no/2012/06/jammed-frggn-nozzle-30doc-days-1518.html

http://richrap.blogspot.no/2012/06/jammed-frggn-nozzle-30doc-days-1518.html

ALTERNATE SOFTWARE

• Check out Slicer http://slic3r.org/(for Windows, Mac & Linux)

• Repetier Host for direct control of the printerhttp://www.repetier.com/download/

• Kisslicer & Netfabb may be interesting too


http://www.repetier.com/download/

http://www.repetier.com/download/

PRINTING WORKFLOW


WORKFLOW

1. Find / make model

2. Slice model & save to SD

3. Prepare the printer

4. Start printing!


1. FIND A MODEL

• Thingiverse.com

• Youmagine.com

• Cubehero.com

• Bld3r.com

• Github

Read more at http://richrap.blogspot.no/2014/05/makerbot-patents-twist-knife-on-open.htmlWednesday, April 15, 15

http://richrap.blogspot.no/2014/05/makerbot-patents-twist-knife-on-open.html

http://richrap.blogspot.no/2014/05/makerbot-patents-twist-knife-on-open.html

2. SLICE THE MODEL

• Cura

• Slicer

• Kisslicer

• Netfabb

• Skeinforge / RepG


CURA


3. PREPARE THE PRINTER(All steps may not be required)


3. PREPARE THE PRINTERPrepare the build surface

Image by Ultimaker


PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed

Image by Ultimaker


PREPARE THE PRINTERInserting filament & priming


PREPARE THE PRINTERUse Ulticontroller to heat the nozzle

1. Push Encoder2. Select “Control”3. Select “Nozzle”4. Set to 210C

Image by Ultimaker


PREPARE THE PRINTERWhen heated, open extruder latch


PREPARE THE PRINTEROpen extruder drive


PREPARE THE PRINTERInsert the filament

Insert filament all the waythrough the bowden tube. Push until it reachesthe extruder.


PREPARE THE PRINTERClose and prime the extruder

Lock the extruder & thenturn the big extruder gearuntil you see plastic coming out of the nozzle.


4. START PRINTING

1. Insert SD card2. Push Encoder3. Select “Print from SD”4. Scroll to the file & select


WHEN THE LAST PERSON LEAVES - ALL 3D PRINTERS

ARE TURNED OFF.

NO EXCEPTIONS!


Image from http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?392,375707Wednesday, April 15, 15

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/ultimaker/tOx2ED07F9A/YdNPOL8I8NwJ


Image from http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2014/7/13/near-disaster-while-3d-printingWednesday, April 15, 15



Image from https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/ultimaker/tOx2ED07F9A/YdNPOL8I8NwJWednesday, April 15, 15



PRINTING BREAK...


PRINTING RULES1. You break it, you fix it

2. Keep the space clean. Don’t leave a mess.

3. The printers are a membership advantage. Only Bitraf members may use the printers (as well as other machines).

4. For good prints - buy your own quality plastic. Keep it in a bin in the Lab.

5. No unattended printing. When the last person leaves - all 3D printers are turned off along with all other equipment.


HOW TO SOLVECOMMON PROBLEMS


SWITCHING PLASTICS

• Feed plastic manually until new color shows

• Keep extruding for a while or do a test print

• Old colors will keep contaminating your print until you got it all out

• Slightly hotter temp may help cleaning out the old


GREAT HELP-SITE!


http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide




HOTEND

Copper nozzle

Aluminium heater block

Peek tube

PTFE insert (White plastic)


CLOGGED HOTEND (A)1. Warm extruder to 200C

2. Hold aluminium block still with a wrench

3. Use another wrench to unscrewthe copper tip. Can’t be done when cold!

4. Heat copper using a burner

5. Insert a piece of ABS/PLA firmlyinto the warm tip. Wait a fewseconds and pull back. This removesplastic & impurities

6. Use the wire of a resistor to push any impurities into the nozzle tip & then do #4 + 5 until clean

7. Re-assemble while warm or it won’t fit


If you leave the extruderhot for a long time

you’ll create one of themost time-consumingproblems for yourself.

A plug forms here sincethe heat creeps up the

brown PEEK piece.

When you try topush warm plastic into

a tube, it expandsand creates a plug...

CLOGGED HOTEND (B)


To solve this, you need to:

1. Heat the extruder & retract the filament

2. unscrew the long screws

3. Lift out the hotend assembly so you can remove the plug

4. Screw the thing back together while you make sure the bowden tube is flush with the white plastic piece that goes into the brown peek. Any gap there will allow plugs to form again.

CLOGGED HOTEND (B)


COLD-PULL


http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the



OTHER ERRORS?jenschr [ på ) gmail { punktum ) com


ABS PRINTING


DIFFERENCES

• Heated build platform

• Kapton or PET tape

• UHU glue stick

• No print-fan

• Enclosure


WARPING

http://i.imgur.com/h3fyXCp.jpgWednesday, April 15, 15

http://i.imgur.com/h3fyXCp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/h3fyXCp.jpg

WARPING

http://i.imgur.com/h3fyXCp.jpgWednesday, April 15, 15

PREVENTING WARPING


WARPING


POST-TREATMENT


QUESTIONS?


3D Printer Workshop (Bitraf, April 2015)

Technology

Transcript of 3D Printer Workshop (Bitraf, April 2015)