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    Introduction to Fashion

    Lighting Set-ups

    Image Examples

    Software

    Glossary

    main menu

    Each section is hyperlinked

    larriepaultiernan

    Developed by

    Larrie Tiernan

    Fashion Retouching

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    Introduction to Fashion Photography

    Learn about lighting for fashion

    How to work with models

    Working in different softwareprogrammes

    Creating a unique photograph

    from your fashion images

    Test your knowledge and skills

    Further resources to investigateand research

    Main Menu

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    Assignment Using the following two lighting diagrams set up the studio

    with the appropriate lights.

    Experiment with the lighting, using the suggested power output

    for each light. Vary the lighting ratio, recording the power settingsand the aperture for each light, using a light meter.

    Record this information in the form of a lighting diagram, with

    the appropriate image, as a visual example.

    Research and collect other examples of lighting diagrams for fashionphotography as a starting point for your own personal ideas.

    Lighting Set-ups

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    Creating lighting diagrams

    This file enables you to create

    sophisticated diagrams

    It is a Photoshop file with various

    folders. Clicking on the layer

    brings up a small graphic

    These can be repositioned by

    converting the graphic into a

    smart object

    This can then be rotated using

    Command T ( Control T for PC)

    Main Menu

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    christian hough

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    christian hough

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    Hough To: Fashion & Beauty - The Colours of

    Life

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-

    2v3MrnDrQw&feature=channel

    Hough To: Hard light made easy

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JVjjmtfwHs&feature=channel

    Hough To: Ringlite portraiture on a budgethttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZnhW0IP8js&feature=channel

    Hough To: High Key & Low Key Lighting for

    fashion

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsUGbdT1hU

    c&feature=channel

    Christian Hough Lighting Videos

    Christians personal web site http://www.christianhough.com/index2.php

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2v3MrnDrQw&feature=channelhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2v3MrnDrQw&feature=channelhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JVjjmtfwHs&feature=channelhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZnhW0IP8js&feature=channelhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsUGbdT1hUc&feature=channelhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsUGbdT1hUc&feature=channelhttp://www.christianhough.com/index2.phphttp://www.christianhough.com/index2.phphttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsUGbdT1hUc&feature=channelhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsUGbdT1hUc&feature=channelhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZnhW0IP8js&feature=channelhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JVjjmtfwHs&feature=channelhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2v3MrnDrQw&feature=channelhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2v3MrnDrQw&feature=channelhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2v3MrnDrQw&feature=channel
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    Portable strobe lighting Fixed studio lighting

    Lighting Equipment

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    Honeycomb with Girds - Varying sizes

    Honeycomb

    Used to emphasize texture

    Can be used as a hair light

    Used on the background as

    an effects light

    Placed behind the model, it works

    as a rim light

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    Grid Diffuser 75 degree Softlite Reflector

    Soft Lighting - Fashion and Beauty Photography

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    Working with Models

    Model Release Form

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    A contract between a photographer and a model to agree where

    and how your images can be used. Without a signed release you

    may be unable to sell an image of a person, even if the subject

    was not a professional model and provided verbal consent.

    No stock library, for example, will accept a non-released image.

    Standard forms are available on the Internet. The Association of

    Photographers website has standard forms supplied by Getty.

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    Image Examples

    Task 1In this section you will see some examples of fashion photography.

    Using what you have learnt from your practical activities and by creating

    lighting diagrams, work out how these images where lit.

    Task 2

    Use the Photoshop lighting file to create a set of lighting diagrams.

    Task 3

    From your own experiments keep a record of the lighting set-ups you

    worked with during the fashion photography unit.

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    Fashion Portfoliousing different lighting techniques

    famode

    Main Menu

    http://www.famode.com/display_portfolio.php?id=3113http://www.famode.com/display_portfolio.php?id=3113
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    larriepaultiernan

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    larriepaultiernan

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    larriepaultiernan

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    larriepaultiernan

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    larriepaultiernan

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    Retouching - Fashion Photography

    Main MenuDeveloped by

    Larrie Tiernan

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    Professional retouching and digital make-up

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    Contents

    step 1: Healing and Retouching

    step 2: Skin Smoothing

    step 3: Digital Make-up

    step 4: Eye Shadow

    step 5: Lip Alterations

    step 6: Whitening Eyes

    step 7: Changing Hair Colour

    step 8: Changing Eye Colour step 9: Face Sculpting

    step 10: Final Sharpening of Image

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    Skin smoothing

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    Skin smoothing

    New Layer above Healing layerName layer: Skin Smoothing

    Use brush size 40 80 pixels

    With paint brush selected change opacity

    to 20% (10% for more sweeps and working

    in a subtle manner)

    Press ALT key and sample a colourSmooth over blemish 1- 3 times

    This technique can reduce lines under

    eyes

    Helps reduce shine

    If you make a mistake Control Z (PC)

    Command Z (Mac)

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    Digital Make-up

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    Creative Make-up / Eye liner

    Create New Layer

    Name Layer: Eye Liner

    Zoom in on the eye using the Navigator Tool

    Hit D on the keyboard to set the foreground colour as BLACK

    Use brush size 10 pixels

    With paint brush selected change opacity to 20% (10% formore sweeps and working in a subtle manner)

    Run brush over area for eye liner

    Dont need to be too perfect

    Once youve done one eye use Space Bar to scroll across to

    other eye

    Any mistakes can be removed by using the Eraser Tool

    Set opacity to 40% to remove mistakes

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    Eye Shadow

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    Creating Eye Shadow

    Create New Layer

    Name Layer: Eye Shadow

    Use Polygonal Lasso Tool

    Draw around the area you want to designate as the Eye Shadow around one

    eye

    Hold down Shift Key and designate an area for Eye Shadow around the other

    eye

    This technique can be also used for the Cheekbone

    Hold down Shift Key and designate an area for the Cheekbone

    Feather selection by 30 pixels

    Go to SELECT, FEATHER and choose 20 pixels and click OK

    Create an ADJUSTMENT Layer

    Go to BLACK/WHITE Ikon on the Layers palette and click HUE/Saturation

    In the HUE/SATURATION Menu type in the following:

    HUE = -5

    SATURATION = +18LIGHTNESS = +28

    These are starting points and can be modified dependent on the image

    Eye Shadow and Cheekbone can be modified separately

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    Lip Alterations

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    Lip alteration

    Use POLYGONAL LASSO ToolClick around the lips keeping to the edge of the lip line

    Once the lips are selected FEATHER the selection

    SELECT, FEATHER and choose a feather of 5 pixels and click

    OK

    Make another ADJUSTMENT LAYER, select

    HUE/SATURATION

    In the HUE/SATURATION Menu type in the following:

    HUE = -6

    SATURATION = +25

    LIGHTNESS = -11

    These are starting points and can be modified dependent on

    the image

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    Whitening eyes

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    Whitening Eyes

    Use POLYGONAL LASSO ToolClick around the whites of the eye

    Add to the selection by holding down the Shift Key

    Hold down SPACE BAR, scroll to the other eye

    Add to the selection by holding down the Shift Key and

    select whites of other eye

    Once the whites of the eyes are selected FEATHER theselection

    SELECT, FEATHER and choose a feather of 5 pixels and click

    OK

    Make another ADJUSTMENT LAYER, select CURVES

    Click on the line and pull the CURVE slightly up

    Adjust appropriately

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    Changing Hair Colour

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    Changing Hair Colour

    Create a new layer

    Name the Layer: HairUse POLYGONAL LASSO Tool

    Click around the are of hair that you want to change colour

    SELECT, FEATHER and choose a feather of 30 pixels and

    click OK

    Make another Hue/Saturation Adjustment Layer,Tick COLORIZE

    In the HUE/SATURATION Menu I typed in the following:

    HUE = +258

    SATURATION = -30LIGHTNESS = -23

    Adjust appropriately to your own taste

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    Changing Eye Colour

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    Changing Eye Colour

    Create a new layer

    Name the Layer: Eye Colour

    Use POLYGONAL LASSO ToolClick around the Iris of the eye

    Add to the selection by holding down the Shift Key

    Hold down SPACE BAR, scroll to the other eye

    Add to the selection by holding down the Shift Key and select Iris of

    other eye

    Once the Irises of the eyes are selected FEATHER the selection

    SELECT, FEATHER and choose a feather of 5 pixels and click OK

    Make another Hue/Saturation Adjustment Layer,

    Tick COLORIZE

    In the HUE/SATURATION Menu I typed in the following:

    HUE = +258SATURATION = -30

    LIGHTNESS = -23

    Adjust appropriately to your own taste

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    Face Sculpting

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    Face Sculpting

    For this next technique we will need to crunch all of Layersinto ONE Layer

    Look at all your Layers created so far

    Create a NEW Layer right at the top of the layers stack

    Hold down the ALT Key

    Click on the flyout in the layers palette arrow and withoutreleasing the Mouse Button

    Click on MERGE VISIBLE this will merge all the layers

    together

    This is similar to Flattening without collapsing all of the

    Layers

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    Liquify Tool

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    Using the Liquify Tool to re-sculpt the features of the FACE

    1. Bloat Tool

    Go to FILTER and then LIQUIFY

    You are now in the LIQUIFY palette

    Click on the BLOAT Tool

    Choose a Brush size of 200 pixels in the Liquify MenuMove the CROSS HAIR over the centre of one of the eyes and

    click ONCE or TWICE

    Move the CROSS HAIR over the centre of the second of the

    eye and click Once or TWICE

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    Using the Liquify Tool to re-sculpt the features of the FACE

    1. Pucker Tool

    Go to FILTER and then LIQUIFY

    You are now in the LIQUIFY palette

    Click on the Pucker Tool

    Choose a Brush size of 200 pixels in the Liquify MenuMove the CROSS HAIR over the nose and sweep ONCE or

    TWICE

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    Final Sharpening of Image

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    Final Sharpening of Image

    SAVE

    Save the File as another PSD file format with a different name

    Flatten Image

    SHARPENING some of the Facial Features

    Us the POLYGONAL Lasso Tool

    Select around the central features of the face including the

    Eyebrows, Eyes Nose and Mouth

    Select, Feather and choose 100 pixels

    Then go to FILTER, SHARPEN and select UNSHARP MASKIn the UNSHARP MASK menu choose

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    Final ImageMain Menu

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    Software

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    Software

    Lightroom is a separate software programme which

    allows you to import images and work on them

    In an efficient workflow environment.

    It has a powerful raw conversion facility and

    allows for customized presets.

    You can create a library of images to be used

    in making a slide show, a website or to be printed out.

    It is divided into five sections

    Library Develop Slideshow Print Web

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    Creating a Fashion Image

    In this section the photographer uses a particular lighting

    set-up

    Uses Lightroom with a downloaded preset

    Works in Photoshop to create an initial look

    Finishes off the image in Photoshop using retouching

    and filter techniques

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    The key to this technique is to create a light tunnel,

    using foam board. This channels the light from the

    Beauty Dish onto the model, creating a soft light.

    The Honeycomb creates the hair light. The yellow

    gel provides the coloured light for the hair.

    The post production in Lightroom and Photoshop

    creates a lighting effect reminiscent of the film 300.

    larriepaultiernan

    Glossary Main Menu

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    AgencyA modelling agency is responsible for representing and promoting itsroster of models and booking jobs for them. Modelling agencies usually handlecontracts, payments and the whole business side of the model's life.

    Agency BookThe book agencies distribute to all of their clients to promote theirmodels. The book contains the comp card for each model represented by theagency. Models are often required to pay a fee to have their comp card printedin the book.

    Beauty ShotA close-up shot of part or all of the face (lips, eyes, etc.). This kindof photo is usually used in a cosmetics print ad or in a magazine editorial aboutskin care products, and make-up products,.

    BioThe condensed story of a model's life - basically a resume with particularjobs highlighted.

    BookoutWhen you tell your agent you're not available for a job, for eitherprofessional or personal reasons, and the agent cannot book you during thattime, you've "booked out" for that time.

    Clean-CleanA specification on a call-sheet that means clean hair, clean face.Models should show up for the photo shoot with no make-up on and freshly

    washed hair. The opposite of this is "hair and make-up ready," which is prettyself-explanatory.

    Glossary Main Menu

    Glossary

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    Composite CardAlso referred to as a comp card, zed card or model business card. Acomp card is a piece of card stock printed with at least two photos of you in variousposes, settings, outfits and looks (the widest variety possible). It includes your name,your contact information, usually your agency's info and all your stats. Comp cards

    come in lots of different formats depending on the city, agency and the type of modelor actor you are. Agencies will usually issue comp cards for you after they sign you.

    Contact SheetAlso called Proofs. A photographer's term for a sheet of film printed withsmall versions of all the photos taken during the photo shoot. From the contact sheet,the photographer and the client will choose which shots they want to print andenlarge.

    Cove StudioThis is a photography studio that has no corners - instead, it's sort ofrounded everywhere with built-in backdrops. In photographs, corners and edges (like

    where the wall meets the floor) tend to look ugly. A cove studio eliminates this effect.Seamless paper gives the same effect in a regular studio.

    Daylight StudioA photographic studio that is lit with natural light, usually by way ofwindows and skylights.

    DresserThe person who makes sure that clothes fit the model properly, and pinsthem if necessary.

    FittingThe session that takes place before the photo shoot where the clothes to bemodelled are fit onto the model. Based on the model's particulars, the clothes areusually altered to fit. When models go to a fitting, they are expected to stand aroundpartially clothed all day long, in front of several people. These people will usually bestylists, seamstresses and designers.

    Glossary

    Glossary

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    Freelance ModelA model listed with multiple agencies (as opposed to one particularagency) or a self-promoting model who works without an agent. Most commercialprint models are freelance and work as independent contractors.

    Go-seeA model's appointment to see a potential client.HalftimeModels are paid halftime for all travel time. If your day rate is 50 an hour,you'll get 25 for each hour you travel to and from that job. Your agency also gets20% of halftime travel rates.

    Head SheetA poster displaying head shots and information about models representedby a modeling agency. Models may have to pay to appear on an agency's headsheet.

    Model ReleaseA legal document provided by the client/photographer and signed bythe model or agent. It gives permission to the photographer to use photographs takenat a particular sitting. If photographs are used without a release, or in a way differentfrom what is stated in the release, then the model can sue for breach of contract.

    Photographer ReleaseA contract signed by the photographer giving permission to themodel to use the photographs taken during a particular sitting.

    PortfolioAlso called a Bookor Model's Book. A notebook containing a collection of amodel's best photographs (usually size 8"x10") and tear sheets demonstrating theirabilities in front of the camera. Models can usually purchase good portfolios stamped

    with their agency's name and logo directly from the agency, but plain black portfolioswork fine, too.

    Glossary

    Glossary

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    Prints For TimeAn agreement between the model and photographer, whereby theywork for each other on a mutually beneficial basis, and no money changes hands. Thephotographer provides a selection of prints from the shoot in recognition of themodel's time commitment.

    ResumeSheet listing a model's education, experience, and vital statistics. Theresume is usually attached to an 8X10 or a composite.

    Tear SheetThe actual page torn from the magazine a model appeared in. Models puttheir tear sheets in their portfolios. Tearsheets are even better than photos, because itshows the kind of work the model has already done.

    Test ShootWhen a model and photographer work together on a new idea or on theirportfolios. No fees other than sharing film-and-developing expenses are involved.

    Model and Photographer Releases should be signed before the session.

    UsagesModels get paid for each different medium in which their photograph is used.These different mediums, or usages, may include: consumer magazines, trademagazines, product packaging, print ads, bus ads, subway ads, billboards, magazinecovers, direct mail, magazine editorials, posters, catalogues, brochures, point-of-purchase (point-of-sale or p-o-p), annual reports, book covers, kiosk, duratrans(those big portable billboards that are towed around behind trucks), newspapers, etc.The model receives an additional fee for each usage the client buys. Usages also varyaccording to time and region. The longer the ad runs and the more markets in which it

    appears, all drive up the model's fee. The largest usage is the unlimited time usage,worldwide buyout. That means the client can plaster the photograph across every cityin the world in every possible usage until the end of time.

    Glossary

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    Copyright Information 2010

    Slide 14,15 Chrisitian Hough

    Chrisitian Hough 2008

    All other images Larrie Tiernan larriepaultiernan 2010

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