3 peru and certintex apparel testing
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Apparel Testing for the US Market
• Regulated – By US Government– Flammability– Care Labeling– Content Labeling
• Discretionary – Required by Retailers and Manufacturers– Physical Testing– Chemical Testing
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U. S. Flammable Fabrics ActU. S. Flammable Fabrics Act
Note – Children’s sleepwear has special flammability regulations not in the scope of this work session.
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16 CFR PART 1610Flammability of Clothing Textiles
• Does not apply to:
– Hats
– Gloves
– Footwear
– Interlining Fabrics
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TWO CATEGORIES OF FABRIC
A. Plain Surface Fabrics1. Average burn time less than 3.5 seconds
= CLASS 32. Average burn time more than 3.5 seconds
= CLASS 1
B. Raised Surface Fabrics1. Average burn time less than 4.0 seconds
= CLASS 32. Average burn time between 4.0 - 7.0 seconds
= CLASS 23. Average burn time more than 7.0 seconds
= CLASS 1
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EXEMPTIONS
A. Plain Surface Fabrics- Any fabric greater than 2.6 oz/yd2
- Any fabric made entirely from any of the following fibers or combinations thereof:Acrylic, Mod Acrylic, Nylon,Olefin, Polyester, Wool
B. Raised Surface Fabrics- Any fabric made entirely from any of the following
fibers or combinations thereof:Acrylic, Mod Acrylic, Nylon,Olefin, Polyester, Wool
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U. S. Flammable Fabrics Act
Very Dangerous Fabrics!Very Dangerous Fabrics!
Raised Surface Fabrics Such As:Raised Surface Fabrics Such As:
• Flannelette• Fleece• Corduroy• Velvet• Velveteen
• Velour• Terry Cloth• Chenille• Imitation Furs
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THREE CLASSIFICATIONS
• Class 1 - Normal Flammability
• Class 2 - Intermediate Flammability
• Class 3 - Rapid and Intense Burning
• Class 1 and Class 2 can be sold in the USA.
• STR does not recommend class II be entered into the
US Market
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Soft Home TextilesAdditional Flammability Tests
• These are not regulated - but are industry standards.– Bedding – ASTM D4151– Curtains – NFPA 701-89– Decorative Pillows – Cal. Tech. Bulletin 117, Section
E– Towels – N/A
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CARE LABELING REGULATION
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CARE LABELING REGULATION
• Current rule established in 1984. Referred to as 16 CFR Part 423. Administrated by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC).
• Reasonable Basis :
A manufacturer or importer MUST establish a Reasonable Basis for Care information on a label prior to sale.
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CARE LABELING REGULATION
• What must be stated on a Care Label? (assume washable)- How to launder? (Machine or Hand Wash)- At what temperature (Hot, Warm, or Cold)- Bleaching Instruction- How to dry the item? (Line, Tumble, Flat Dry)- At what temperature (Hot, Medium or Low)- Does the item need ironing?- At what temperature (Hot, Warm, Cool, Steam or
Without Steam)
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CARE LABELING REGULATION
• In order to satisfy all of these questions, the following tests are recommend:
- Shrinkage and appearance after laundering
- Colorfastness to laundering
- Colorfastness to chlorine bleach
- Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach
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Regulatory Care and Content
Dimensional Changes
3 launderings - garments AATCC 150 machine wash
Dry Cleaning AATCC 158 Garment Stage
Dimensional Stability - fabric (3 washes / 1 Dry Cleaning)
AATCC 135 Fabric Stage
Appearance Evaluation STR TP 0095 Satisfactory
Steam ASTM D2724 10.4.1
Colorfastness to:
Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 Drycleaning
Laundering Accelerated AATCC 61
Chlorine Bleach (Not for Silk or items with Lycra or rubber)
STR-TP 80 / spot test 4.0 Min.
Non-Chlorine Bleach STR-TP 130 / spot test 4.0 Min.
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CARE LABELING REGULATION
Care and Content Label Example
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LET’S LOOK AT THE AMERICAN CARE SYMBOLS
Care symbols are not required but if they
are used they must be correct.
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WASHING
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BLEACHING
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DRYING
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IRONING
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DRY CLEANING
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FIBER IDENTIFICATION
• Content Labeling– Microscopic Method (100%)– Chemical Separation– Mechanical Separation– Microscopic Analysis (Cashmere)
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Physical and Chemical Testing
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Physical Testing
Physical Testing
Weight (oz/yd) ASTM D3776 or ASTM 3887
Construction ASTM D3775 +/-5% from Specifications
Bursting Strength (lbs.) - knits ASTM D3786 (Mullen) 40 lb. min
Tensile Strength (lbs.) - woven ASTM D1682Under 3.0 oz/yd - 20.0 Min Over 3.0
oz/yd - 25.0 Min.
Seam Strength (lbs.) - garments ASTM D1683 15.0 Min.
Yarn Slippage ASTM D434
Spirality/Torque after Wash AATCC 179 +/- 5%
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Physical Testing
Pilling
Knit - ICI Pilling ISO 12945-1
Woven - Martindale ASTM D4970 100 cycles
Random Tumble (bean bag) ASTM D3512
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Chemical Testing
Formaldehyde Content 75 ppm maximum
Qualitative STR TP01346 spot test
Sealed Jar Method AATCC 112
Acetylacetone Method JIS L 1041-83 174
pH test (white fabric only) AATCC81 water extract
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Chemical Testing
Colorfastness to:
Crocking AATCC 8Wet - 3.0 Min. Dry - 4.0
Min.
Perspiration AATCC 15 3-Apr
Light (20 hours) AATCC 16E
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Q & A Session
If you have further questions please contact Ben DeVito at:
Or visit our website www.STRQuality.comand sign up for our newsletter the
STR Monitor
Thank You