25 Ways to Build a Self Reliant

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DIY PROJECTS

for the

Sl-Sucin Hmwn

25 WAYS TO BUILD A SELF-RELIANT LIFESTYLE

C Pbi


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Contents

Introduction

IYPROJECTS

! Collecting Rw

Collecting Gray W

Compostin

4 Rd Bd

C Gardenin

Building

Cld F

Sarting

&Transplanting Seedlings

Building

Ghu

Building

Hoophouse

10Preserving

YuBount

!!Setting Up

R Cll

12Raising

Al

13Building

Chck Ak

14Building

Bhv

15 SlElectricit

16 SlSecur Light

Ccu

17 Sl H

Mantesh


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Index


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Declare Your Independence

Th wld b gwg cplx v d. Whilemuch of today 's new technology makes legitimate improvementsin ou lives, this new electronic age has created something of a

backlash. Each upgraded cellphone generation and ever-spreadingfactory farm distances us ust a little bit farthe from the days

when all you needed to conquer the world was a tllable acre and a

mule. The projects in this book are designed to help you close that

widening gapif only just a bit .


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Slf-Succ G

People who are interested in adopting a more self-sufficientlifestyle almost certainly subscribe to today's Green

principles and to an approach to liing based onstewardshp. It is worth noting, however, that the projects

described in this book were chosen because they resul in aproduct, usually a consumable, that contributes directly to

the pool of things you and your family need in order to liveand live well.

The decisions we make every dayeven down to which grainwas used to make the our in your morning toastare part of a

chain of thousands of other decisions hat, taken together, have aprofound effect on the resources of our planet and the health and

prosperity of ou families. The urge to take back some contol of

our own lives and futures has never been stronger.

The good news is: You can. Whether you live in a bustling city,

sprawling suburban development, or rural estate, you can achievegreater everyday self-sufficiency with relatively little effort. As

self-sufficiency expert John Seymour wrote, You do not need

five acres and a degree in horticulture to become self-sufficient . . .self-sufficiency s about taking control and becoming an effective

producer of whaever your esources alow.

DIY Prjects for the Se-Sucient Homeowner provides youwith around two dozen ways to help you maximize your resources

and participate in the march toward greater self-reliance. Whether

you own a small balcony downtown or a couple of acres in the

suburbs, you can grow much more of your own food than youever expectedas long as you have the right tools, such as raised

garden beds, compost bins, container gardens, or even a small

greenhouse. Whether you have an expansive estate or a small

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backyard, you can raise animalsthis book will show you how tobuild a chicken coop, a beehive, and animal-friendly fencing. It

contains many more projecs related to the production and storage

of food from your own homestead.


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Solr pnels tht ollet and eat air to warm old spaes in yor ome aremeaisms yo an ild yorself and dt in to yor ome's existing dtwork. Learnow on page 1 7 .


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But raising your own food is not the only way to increase yourself-reliance. With new DIY-friendly technology, generating your

own clean energy is easier than ever. Here, you'll see exactly how

to build a solar panel, install solar energy systems, and understand

alternative energy sources.The key to your self-suffciency is to focus first on a few doable

projects that fit into your lifestyle wihout a lot of adjustments.

Most modern homeowners will not be able to maintain a fullyself-sufficient home without quitting their day job, and that

shouldn't necessarily be the goal for everyone. All homeowners

can, however, take steps toward greater self-reliance, and partake

in the satisfaction that comes from providing for your family'sneeds through your own effort. So get started: The time has never

been better to declare your ndependence.


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oThe Self-Sucient Lifestyle

Self-sufficient living is a highly complementary practiceonceyou begin, you'll find that many parts of your home areconnected, and that multiple systems of self-sufficiency contibute

to one another, oen corresponding wth the natural cycles of theearth. Because of this interconnectedness, many of the projets in

this book will naturally lead you to more and more projects that

will help you maximize your self-sufficiency work.


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Building greenhouse is a great way for gardeners to jmp-start te growing seson, orto introdce new, sensitive plants to yor garden. See page 59


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Fo example, if you start a garden, the fruits and vegetables yougrow will provide waste that will transform into the compost that

will nurture nex year's bounty. Setting up a rainwater collection

system not only reduces your reliance on public utilities, the fresh,

so water will help your plants grow healthy. The hens you areraising for thei eggs control garden pests and provide free

fertilizer. At the end of the growing season, you'll likey be

overwhelmed with vegetables, and wll need to find a means tostore and preserve themperhaps a basement root cellar could be

a good option. And, by growing organic vegetables nurtured by

compost and animal manue, you create a pesticide-free habitat

for honeybees to prosper, while they, in turn, pollinate the plantlife.

That said, you do not need to take on all the projects in this

book at once. Start with the projects that naturally supplement theefforts your family is already making toward self-sufficiency. If

you already recycle, a natural next step is to build compos bins

and begin to make compost with food and paper waste as well. Ifyou already maintain a beautiful ower garden, why not build a

home for the honeybees that are already frequent visitors,allowing you to collect the honey they produce? If you need toconnect electricity to an outbuilding or shed that is not curently

grid-connected, why not install solar panels instead of wiring the

buildng into the grid? If you already garden, why not build a

greenhouse?Fo the newcomer, the pojects on the following pages provide

multiple opportunities to ceate a moe self-reliant lifestyle. Forthe experienced self-sucient homeowner, the step-by-stepprojects included here will provide you with the means to expand

and sreamline your efforts.


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oEfciency, Cnservatin & Recycling

If increased selfsufficiency is your goal, paying attention to theefficiency with which you use your resources is common sense.For example, if your goal is to use solar-heated air to heat all or

part of your home, it makes sense that you want every bit of theheat your solar panels produce to contibute to the temperature of

the room, instead of being lost through dray windows or poorly

insulated walls. Investing in energy-eficient windows and doors

and properly insulating your home is a very important step n the

implementation of an alternate or supplementary heating sysem.If one of the goals of your self-suffiient lifestyle is to decrease

your utility bills, a key first step that is oen overlooked is

resource conservation, whch can make a huge and immediateimpact on your utility bills. For example, before you invest in a

gray water recycling system or install a cistern for rainwatercollection to lessen your dependence on water provided by utility

companies, coach your family in water conservation practices.Run the dishwasher only when it is full, wash only full loads of

laundry, turn off the tap when brushing your teeth, and focus ontaking shorter, more efficient showers.


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The best resources are te ones yo already own. Re-sing or reprposing stff yo no

longer need takes sme creativity, t ltimately it lls needs, not landls. Forexample, tis discarded dressing tale fond new life as a vaity cainet in a selfsfcient omeowners atroom.


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Increasing your own awareness of how to reuse the objectsaround you to benefit your self-sufficient living projects will also

contrbute to your success as a self-sufficient homeowner. If you

plan o start your own seedlings each year, youll need planting

containers. Why not reuse plastic yogurt cups or other foodcontainers you've already used instead of purchasing new

containers? One of the nuggets of wisdom mode self-reliant

homeowners must adopt is that objects do no need to be asdisposable as we are led to believe. Find a way to repurpose the

objects you buy compost paper and food waste, and ensure that

your tools, buildings and appliances are propery maintained to

ensure that they enjoy a long and useful life in your home.


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Getting Started

A key factor in finding your starting point is to develop anunderstanding of your goals as a self-sufficient homeowner. Selfsufficiency can contribute to many different aspects of your

family's lifestyle. So before you plot out your projects, considerthe tenets of selfsufficiency, as described below, and define what

being self-sufficent means to you.

ducg Yu Ow Fd: This is unquestionably the most

involved aspect of a self-suficient lifestyle for many homeownersurban, suburban, and rural. Consider how food production andstorage can ft ino your home, whethe you plan o start a garden

or build a greenhouse, raise chickens and other small animals,

build a root cellar for winte produce sorage, or raise honeybees.


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Building your own chicken coop is a great projet for DIYers of all skill levels (seepage 1 1) chickens provide ntritios eggs, natal garden pes-control and organicfertilizer.


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Svg Ul C: Independence from local energy sourcesis another major draw for self-reliance enthusiass. Whethe youseek ndependence from utlity companies because of prohibitive

costs, unreliable service, or your own desire to live off the grid,many of the projects in this book can help you take first steps to

get there. Bear in mind, however, that many energy- or utilityproduction systems do require a significant financial investmentin the beginning, but will pay for themselves wihin the first tenyears of use.

ducg Cl Eg: Many selfsufficient homeownes aremore motivated by their desire to produce energy for their homes

with ittle or no mpact on the environment than they are by utility

company bills. Producing non-polluing, renewable energy isincreasingly ahievable for residential homeowners as

technological advances make the necessary equipment affordable,

accessible, and easy to install.

Cvg Ruc d Cg L W: Conservingthe earth ' s resources and minimizing waste is a practice that goes

handin-hand with a self-sufficient lifestyle.


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Collected rinwter is perfect for watering the garden or the law Rain is sot nd freeof ost polltants so it is perfect for plant irrigation Learn how to ake yor own rainbarrelsip to


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Drying is oe way to preserve the frits f yor labor, so yo can enjy yorgardens bonty throgh the winter onths. Learn how to bil a siple solar fooddryer on page 86.


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Even i you don't hve a lot of spae, yo can se any snny spot to grow prodce incontainers strawbery barrel like this can hose p to 25 feet of strawberry plants andonly taes p 2 sqar feet of space To ake yor own barrel, see


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Projts


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Colecting Rainwater

ccll vhg ud u hu h qu wloves the natural goodness that's provided with so rainwater.With a simple rain barrel, you can collect rainwater to irrigate

your garden or lawn, water your houseplants , or top off swimmingpools and hot tubs. A ready supply of rainwater s also a reliable

standby for emergency use if your primary water supply is

interrupted.


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Rinwter tht is collected in a rain barrel before it hits the grond is free of anycontainants that waer picks p as it lters throgh soil. This sot war (ad free)water is perfect for plnts lawns and any other otdoor applications.


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Collecting rainwater runoff in rain barrels can save thousandsof gallons of tap water each year. A typical 40 40-ft. roof is

capable of collecting 1 ,000 gallons of water from only one inch of

rain. A large rainwater collection system that squeezes every drop

from your roof can provide mostor sometimes allof the waterused throughout the home, if it's combined with large ciserns,

pumps, and puriication processing.

Spinkling your lawn and garden can consume as much as 40percent of the total household wate use during the growing

season. A simple rain barrel system that limits collected waer to

outdoor (nonpotable) use only, like the rain barrels described on

the following pages, can have a big impact on the self-sufficiencyof your home, helping you save on utlity expenses and reducing

the energy used to process and purify water for your lawn and

garden. Some communities now offer subsidies for rain barrel use,offering free or reduced-prce barrels and downspout connection

kits. Check with your local water authority for more information.

Get smart with your water usage, and take advantage of theabundant supply from above.


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Rain Barrels

Rain barrels, either built from scratch or purchased as a kit, are agreat way to irrigate a lawn or garden without unning up yourutilities bill. The most common systems include one or more rain

barres (40 to 80 gallons) positioned below gutter downspouts tocollect water runoff from the roof. A hose or drip irrigation line

can be connected to spigot valves at the bottom of the rain barrel.

You can use a single barrel, or connect several rain barrels in

series to collect and dispense even more rainwater.

Plastic rain barrel kits are available for purchase at many homecentes for around $ 100 . If kit prices aren' t for you, a rain barel is

easy to make yourself fo a fraction of the price. The most

important component to your homemade barrel s the drum youchoose.


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Obtaining a Barrel

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Practcally any large waterproof container can be used to make a

rain barrel. One easily obtained candidate is a trash can,prefeably plastic, with a snap-on lid A standard 32-gallon can

will work for a rain barrel, but if you can find a 44-gallon canchoose it instead. Although wood barrels are becoming more

scarce, you can still get them from wineries. A used 55-gallonbarre can be obained free or for a small charge from a bulk foodsupplier. Most 55-gallon barrels today are plastic, but some metalbarres are still oating around. Whatever the material, make sure

the barrel did not contain any chemica or compound that could be

harmul to plants, animals, or humans. If you don't know whatwas n it, don' use it. Choose a barrel made out of opauematerial that lets as little lght through as possible, reducing the

risk of algae growth.

A barrelful of water is an appealing breeding ground for

mosuitoes and a perfect incubator for algae. Filters and screensover he barrel opening should prevent insect infestation, but foradded protection against mosuitoes add one tablespoon of

vegetable oil to he water in the barrel. This coats the top surfaceof the stored water and deprives the larvae of oxygen.


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TOOLS & MATERIALSBarrel or trash candrill with spade bit

JigsawHole saw

Barb fitting with nut for overow hose1-12" sump drain hose for overow34 " hose bibb or sillcock34" ale pipe coupling

34" bushing or bulkhead connector

Channel-type pliersFiberglass window screeningCargo strap with ratchet

Teon tape

Silicone caulk


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How to Make a Rain Barrel

1 Cut a lrge opening in the barrel op or lid. Mar the size and shape of yor peningif sng a blk food barrel ark a large sei -circle in the top f the barrel. If sing aplastic garbage can with a lid ark a 12"-dia. circle in the center of the lid. Drill astarter ole and then t ot the shae with ajigsaw.


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2 near topfitting. Thread the barb tting into the hole and secre it to the barrel on the inside withthe retainer nt and rbber washer (i provided) Slide the overow hose into the barbed

end of he barb elbow ntil the end of the hose seats against the elbow ange.


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3 Drill the ccess hole for the spigot (either a hose bibb or sillcoc brass or PVC) .Tighte the stem of the sillcock onto a threaded coupling inserted into the access hole.Inside the barrel a rbber washer is slipped onto the copling end and then a threaded

bshing is tightened over the coplig to create a seal. pply a strp of Teon tape to allthreaded parts before making each cnnection. Calk arond the sigot with clearsilicone calk.


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4 Screen over top Lay a piece inset meshover the top of the trash can and secure it arond the rim with a cago strap or bgeecord that can be draw drm-tight. Sap the trash can lid over the op. Once yo ave

installed the rain barrel periodically remove and clean the mesh.


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How to Install a Rain Barrel


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Whether you purchase a ain barrel or make your own from

scratch or a kit, how well it meets your needs will depend onwhere you put it and how it is set up. Some rain barrels are

temporary holding tanks that store waer runoff just long enoughto direct it into your yard through a hose and drip irrigation head.

Other rain barres are more of a reservoir that supplies water ondemand by filling up waterng cans or buckets. If you plan to usethe spigot as the primary means for dispensing water, you'll wantto position the ain barrel well off the ground for easy acess

(raising your rain barrel has no effect on water pressure) .

In addition to height, other issues surrounding he placement ofyour rain barrel (or rain barrels) include the need to provide agood base, orientation of he spigot and overow, the position

relative to your downspouts, and how to link more than one rain

barre together. TI Wherever possibe, locate your rain barrel ina shaded area. Sunlight encourages algae growh, especialy inbarres that are partially translucent.


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TOOLS & MATERIALSDrilldriverScrewdriver

Hack sawRainbarrel

Hose & fittingsBase material (pavers)Downspout adapter and extensionTeon tape


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1 Select loction for the barrel nder a downspot. Locate yo barrel as close to thearea yo want to irrigate as possible Make sre the barrel has a stable, level base.


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2 spigot Some kits may nclde a secod spigot for ling watering cans.Use Teon tape at all threaded fittings to ensre a tight seal. Conect the overow tbe,and make sre it is pointed away from the fondatin.


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L

dt to length with a hacksaw. Reconnect the elbow tting to thedownspot sing sheet-metal screws ttach the coer to the top of the rain barrel. Somesystems inclde a cover with poros wire mesh, to which the dowspot delivers water.Others inclde a cove with a sealed connection (next step) .


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4 elbow to the rain barrel with a length of exible downspotextension attached to the elbow and the barrel cover.


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Vrition: If yor barrel comes with a downspt adapter cut away a segment ofdownsot and insert the adapter so it diverts water into the barrel.


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5 Connect drip irrigation tbe or garden hose to the spigot. Y-tting like te oneshown here will let yo feed the dri irrigation system throgh a garden hose when therain barel is empty.


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6 If yo wnt increase water storage by connectig two or more rain barrels tgetherwith a inking kit available from many kit sppliers.


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Colecting Gray Water

G w ud dcb ww f uwater source that is free of contaminants like toilet waste andgarbage disposa remains. Water that has come into contact with

these types of contaminants is referred to as black water and itsreuse is strictly prohibited for public health reasons Wastewater

generated directy from the tap (usually while you're waiting for

the tap water to heat up or cool down) contains very few or no

contaminants, such as soap, cleaning chemicals, food waste, orother added organic and inorganic material.


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A sml gr wter recovery sink that drains atomatically to a reservoir makes it easyto rese gray water for watering plats or gardens. Gray water systems like this make it

easy to recycle thosands of gallons of clean tap wter each year.


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Gray water can be collected easily and used for many householdpurposes without treatment or ltration. It is not suitable for

consumption, however. Gray waer that contains some

contaminants, such as laundry suds, dish soap, or showerbath

water can be used for some limited purposes, such as ushingtoilets.

A simple way to capture gray water for reuse is to install a

diverer in the form of a small sink basin and drain. Instead ofleading to the sewer, the diverter's dain is directed to a closed

receptacle, usually in the basement or outdoors. The captured

water can be used for watering plants or the lawn. To avoid

allowing bacteria to fester in the gray water receptacle, do notallow the water to stagnate.


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Rvg Sp

Remove your old sink sprayer to clear an opening for thediverter sink in your sink deck. The hose that supplies the

sprayer usually is attached to the base of the faucet valve.You'll need to disconnect it and tighten a screw-on tube cap

onto the bottom of the tube.


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The gray water collection sink seen in this project is a fairly

simple technology. Advanced recovery systems are designed tohelp you reuse wastewater of many types. They are complex and

can involve double-plumbing throughout parts of your home,

along with water purificaton processes and chemicals, holding

tanks plumbing switches, pumps, subsurface irrigation systems,and other components. If you're committed to reusing as much

water as you can for as many purposes as possible, hire a

professional to design the best system for your family' s needs.


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OInstalling a Gray Water Recvery Sink

The Envirosink gray water diverter apparatus installed in thisprojet is available for sale online and from Green homeretailers (See Resources,

age 58 .

It is designed to be mounted

in a kitchen sink deck knockoutusually the one reserved for thesprayer or the soap dispenser. It can be used with any kitchen

faucetyou simply spin the faucet to empty into the diverter.

Once it is diverted from the sink drain by the collection sink,

the gray water is directed through a hose to a reservoir from which

it can be dispensed easily for general household use. The reservoirshould be a sealed tank with an overow fitting hat leads to the

home drainwaste system (i indoors) or a well-drained runoff area

(if outdoors) . The plumbing for the runoff system should include aP-trap and an air admittance valve (or other backow prevener) .


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Air admtnc

vale

ToResrvi

w


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TOOLS & MATERIALSDrillEye protection

Gray water sink kit(See resources, age 58

aulk18 " rubber washerFlange nutlean ag

1 - 12 " -dia. dran tubes

Power miter saw or ratchetingplastc-pipe cutterSolvent glue

Large bucket


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How to Install a Gray Water Dverter Sink

1 Choose the best spot for the diverter sink to be monted. Usally this means takingover a nsed knockot in yor sik deck or remving a spraye or soap dispenser.Otherwise yo can drill a hole for the diverter as lose as possibe to the diverter.


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2 Attach the diverter sink's drain ailpiece to the sink deck or contertop. pply asmall bead of kitchen and bath calk arond the edges of the hole and press the tailpiece

ange nto the calk. rom below, slip a 1/8" rbber washer onto he tailpiece and thenhand-tighten a ange nt.


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3 Assemble the sink drain system completely befre installing it as a nit. Her, an airadmittance valve is being solvent-gled to a drain stb from the dain P-trap. Yo'llneed to rn additional drain pipe to spply water to yor reservoir. Contact a plmbingprofessional if yo do not have expeience with home plmbing.


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4 Hook p the drain assembly to the tailpiece from the diverter sink. Rn drain pipe to

yor water storage reservoir tank, making sre the tank is eqipped with an overowvalve and tbing that eads into the main drain system.


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Compostng

Th bpduc f d c d fd ppaccumulate rapidly. Everyday yardcare alone creates great heapsof grass clippings, trimmings, leaves, branches, and weeds. Add

to this the potato peelings, coffee grounds, apple cores, and a hostof organic kitchen leavings. The resul is a large mass of organic

matter that is far too valuable a resource to be siply dumped into

the solid waste stream via curbside garbage collection. Yard waste

and kitchen scraps can be recycled into compost and incorporatedback into planters or garden beds as a nutrient-rich (and costfree)

soil amendment.


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Composting turns yard waste and kitchen scraps into a valble soil amedment.


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Mgd Cpg

With the right conditions, you can speed up MotherNature ' s course and yield several helpings of fresh compost

for your yard each season. This is called managedcomposting, as opposed to passve composting, when you

allow a pile of plant debris and such to decompose on itsown. The conditions must be just right to manage compost

and speed the process . You' ll need a balance of carbon andnitrogen, the right temperature, good air circulation, and the

right amount of water. By mixing, chopping materials, and

monitoring conditions in your compost pile, you'll increase

your yield each season.

Compost is nature's own potting soil, and it effectively

increases soil porosity, improves fertility, and stimulates healthy

root development. Besides, making your own soil amendment

through composting is much less expensive than buying

commercial materials.So how does garbage turn into plant food? The process works

like this: Organsms such as bacteria, fungi, worms, and insects

convert compost materials into humus a loamy, nutrient-rich soil.Humus is the end goal of composting. Its production can take a

couple of years if le undisturbed, or it can be sped up with some

help from your pitchfork and a little livestock manure.Although composting occurs throughout nature anywhere some

organic matter hits the earth, in our yards and gardens it is always

a good idea to contain the activity in a designated area, like a

compost bin. Functionally there are two basic kinds of bins:multicompartment compost factories that reuire a fair amount of

attention from you and hidden heaps where organic matter is

discarded to rot at its own pace. Both approaches are valid and


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both will produce usable compost. The main compost bin pojectseen on p. 28 is an example of the moe passive style. At roughly

one cubic yard in volume, it can handle most of your household

organic waste and some garden waste. If you have a higher

volume of organic waste or want to use a threebin approach tostaged composting, simply build additonal bins.


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Cmpst Variabes

A: The best microbes for decomposing plant materials areaerobic, meaning they need oxygen. Without air, aerobic microbesdie and their anaerobic cousins take over. Anaerobic micobes

thrive without oxygen and decompose materials by putrefaction,which is smelly and slow. Your goal is aerobic activity, which

smells musty and loamy, like wet leaves. Improve air circulation

in your compost bin by ensuring air passageways are never

blocked. Intersperse layers of heavier ingredients (grass clippings,

wet leaves) with lighter materials like straw, and turn the pileperiodically with a garden fork or pitchfork to promote air

circulation.

W: Compost should be as wet as a wrung-out sponge. A pilethat's too wet chokes ou necessary air. A too-dry pile willcompost too slowly. When adding water to a compost pile , wet inlayers, first spraying the pile with a hose, then adding a layer ofmaterials.

Tpu: A fast-composting pile produces uite a bit ofheat. On a cool morning, you might notice steam rising from the

pile. This is a good sign. Track the temperature of your pile and

you'll know how well it's progressing. Aim for a constanttemperature between 140 and 150 degrees Fahrenheit, not to

exceed 160 degrees. To wam up a cool pile, agitate it to increaseair ciculation and add nitrogen-dense materials like kitchen wasteor grass clippings. A pile about three feet high and wide will

insulate the middle of the pile and pevent heat from escaping.

You'l know the compost pocess is complete when the pile lookslike dirt and is no longer generating extraordinary heat.


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y home gardeers, compost an be generated on-site and added toany planting bed, lawn, or container for a mltitude of benets Siting the cmpostbefore yo introdce it to yor yard r garden is reommended


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OBrwns and Greens

A fast-burning compost pile reuires a healthy balance ofbrowns and greens. Browns are high in carbon, which foodenergy microorganisms depend on to decompose the pile. Greens

are high in nitrogen, which is a protein source for the multiplyingmicrobes. A rato of threeto-one brown-to-green materials is a

good target.


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Browns: Dry straw,dst (se with cationavoid saw dst from chemically treated wood)


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Note: yo se chemical lawn care prodcts n yor lawn, do not inclde grassclippings in yor compost pile.


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Building a Compost Bin

CUTTING LIST

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Dor ai

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Also need:

12" galvanized hardware cloth 36" by 12 ft.U-nais (fence staples)2 pairs 2 2" butt hinges

2- 12 deck screws

Exterior wood glue

Galvanized finish screws

Exterior wood sealant


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A compost bin can be very plain or it can have jst enogh decorative appeal toimprove the appearane of a tility area.


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How to Build a Compost Bin

1 Prepare the wood stock. t most bilding centers and lmber yards yo can bycedar sanded on all for sides or wih one face left rogh. The dimensions in thisproject are sanded on all for sides. Prepare the wod by ripping some of the stck into1 -3/" -wide strips (do this by ripping 2 x s down the middle on a tablesaw or with acirclar saw and cttig gide) .


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-

3 Assemble the door frames. pply exterior-rated wood gle to the mating parts andclamp them together with pipe or bar clamps. Reinfrce the top joints with 3 "contersnk deck screws (two per joint) . Reinforce the bottom joits by drilling a pair of3/8" -dia . deep clearance holes throgh the bottom edges of the bottom rails andthen driing 3" deck screws throgh these holes p into the stiles.


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4 frame making sre the joints are sqare. Then reiforce the joints with contersnk 3"deck screws.


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5 Hang With the posts ct to length and oriented correctly, attach adoor frame to each post with a pair f galvanized btt hinges. The bottoms of the door

frames shold be slightly higher tha the bottoms f the posts. Temporarily tack a 1 x brace across both door bottom rails to keep the doors from swinging dringconstrction.


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6 Join the panels an the door assembly by gling and clamping the parts together andthen driving 2-12" contersnk dec screws to reiforce the joints. To stabilize theassembly, fasten the 2 x front spreader between the front, bottom edges of the sidepanels. Make sre the spreader will ot interfere with door operation.


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Mak the grids for the panel inll areas. Use 1 2 cedar to make all parts. Useexterio gle and galvanized nish ails to connec the horizonta ller strips to thevertica inll pieces. Va the heighs and spacing of the ller for visal interest and tomake the ends accessble for nailing.


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8 Frame the grids with 1 x 2 strips ct to the correct length so each frame ts neatlyinside a panel or door opening Install the grid frames in the opeings making sre allfront edges are sh.


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9 Attach the top rails that conceal te post tops and help tie the panels together. ttachthe sides rst sing exterior gle an galvanized ish nails. The install the bak rail

on top f the side rails. Leave the front of the project open on top so yo can loadnload and trn over compost more easily.


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10 Lin the interior surfaces of the compost bin ith 1/2" galvanized hardwar cloth.Ct the hardware cloth to t and fasen it with fence staples, galvanized U-nails ornarrowcrown pnematic staples (5/8" minimm) driven every 6" or so. Make sre yodon't leave any sharp edges protrding. Grind them down with a rotary tool or le.


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11 Set p the bin in or location. It shold not b in dirct contact with any stctr.If yo wish, apply a coat of xtrior wood salant to all wood srfacsse a prodctthat cotains a UV inhibitor. TIP: Befor stting p yor compost bin, dig a ho jstinsid the ara whr th bin will b placd. This will increas yo bin's capacity.


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12 Add suitable organic matter to the bin and trn with a pitchfork occasionally tospeed up the rate of aerobic decompsition. With a little nrtring and good conditionsa compost bin can yield several batches of sable compost in a growing season.


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What to Compost, What Not to Compost

Vegeable plants soak up the materials that make up your

compost, and these materials will play a vital role in thedevelopment of the vegetables that will grace your dinner able!

When in doubt as to what should or shouldn't go into yourcompost pile for your garden, follow these general guidelines:


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Rased Beds

Rd gd bd vl dvg v plg ground level. When segregated, soil an be amended in a moretargeted way to support hgh density plantings. Also, in raised

garden beds, sol doesn't suffer compaction from foot traffic ormachinery, so plant roots are free to spread and breathe more

easily. Vegetables planted at high densities in raised beds are

placed far enough apart to avoid overcrowding, but close enough

to shade and choke out weeds. In raised beds, you can also waterplants easily with soaker hoses, which deliver water to soil and

roots rather than spraying leaves and inviting disease. And if your

plants develop a fungus or another disorder, it is easier to treat and

less likely to migrate to other plants in a raised bed situation.


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Raised garden beds make great vegetable gardesthey're easy to weed, simple towater, and the soil qality is easier to ontrol, ensring that yor vegetable plants yield

bontifl fresh prode Yor garden beds an be bilt at any height p to waist -level.It's best not to bild hem mh taler than that, however, to mae sre yo an reahthe enter of yor bed.


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Bd

If you' re planting low-growing crops, position the bed witha north-south orientation, so boh sides of the bed wll be

exposed to direct sunlight. For taller crops, position the bedeast-west.

Rased garden beds can be built in a wide variey of shapes andsizes, and can easily be customized to fit the space you have

available on your property. Just make sure you can reach the

cente easily. If you can only access your raised bed from one

side, it's best to build it no wider than 3 ft. Beds that you canaccess from both sides can be as wide as 6 ft. , as long as you can

reach the center. You can build your raised bed as long as you'dlike.

Raised garden beds can be built from a wide variey of

materials: 2 lumber, 4 4 posts, salvaged timbers, even scrap

metals and other recycled goods. Make sure any lumber you

choose (either new or salvaged) hasn ' t been treated with creosote,pentachlorophenol or chromated copper arsenic (CCA) . Lumber

treated with newer, non-arsenate chemicals at higher saturation

levels is rated for ground contact and is also a safe choice for bedframes. Rot-resistant redwood and cedar are good choices that

will stand the est of time. Other sowoods, including pine,

tamarack, and cypress, will also work, but can be subject o rotand may need to be replaced aer a few years.


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Vegetable Plant Compatibility Chart

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Wg Rd Bd

When the soil inside the planting bed pulls away from theedges of the bed, it's time to waer. The best time of day to

water is in the late aernoon or early- to mid-morning.Avoid watering in midday, when the sun is hottest and

water will uickly evaporate, or near sundown or at night,when too much moisture in the soil can cause mold and

fungus to grow.


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Cmpanin Planting

The old adage is truesome vegetables do actually get alonglike peas and carrots. Some species of vegetables are naturalpartners that benefit from each other when planted close. On the

other hand, some combinations are toublesome, and one plantwill inhibit the growth of another. You can plant these antagonists

in the same gardeneven in the same raised garden bedjust

don't place them side by side. Use the table on p. 34 to help you

plan out your raised garden beds to ensure that your plants grow

healthy, strong, and bear plentiful fruit .


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oStart with Healthy Sil

The success or failure of any gardening effort generally liesbeneath the surface. Soil is the support system for all plansitprovides a balaned meal o the nutrients that plants ' roots need to

grow deep and srong. If you plan to ll your raised beds with soilfrom your property, it ' s a good idea to have the soil tested first to

assess its uality. Take a sample of your soil and submit i to a

local agricultural extension servicea basic lab test will cost you

between $ 1 5 and $25 and will give you detailed information about

the nutrients available in your propery's soil. Mixing soil fromyour property with compost, potting soil, or other additives is a

smart and inexpensive way to improve its uality. Aer you've

filled your beds with soil, add a threeinch layer of mulch to thetop to lock in moisture and keep your good sol from blowing

away in strong winds. Lawn clippings, wood, or bark chips, hayand sraw, leaves, compost, and shredded newspaper all work well

as mulch materials.


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arching spray patterns are aficted by excss water evaporation,bt if yo choose a small, controllable sprinkler with a water pattern that stays low tothe grond yo can dliver water to yor raised bd with minimal loss.


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How to Build a Raised Bed

1 This basic but very sturdy raised bed is made with x landscape timbers stckedwith thir ends staggered in classic lg-cabin style. The corners ar pinned together with6" galvanized spikes or, yo can s timber screws . It is lined with landscape fbricand incldes several weep holes in te bottom corse for drainag. Consider adding a 2x 8 ledge on the top rw. Corner nials improve the appearance nd provide hosegides to protect the plants in the bed.


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yor garden tyig mason's string to Use ashovel o remove the grass inside the otline, then dig a " -wide trench for the rst rowof timbers arond the perimeter. Lay the bottom corse of timbers in the trenches.Where possible, add or remove soil as needed to bring the timbers to levela level bedframe always looks better than a sloped ne. If yo do have a signicant slope toaddress, terrace the beds.


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3 Add the second layer staggering the joints. Drill pilot holes at the corners and drive6" galvanized spikes or 6" to 8" timber screws) throgh the holesse at least wo per

joint. Contine to bild p layers in this fashion til yor bed reaches the desiredheight.


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with landscape fabri to contain the soil and help keep weeds out of the

bed. Tck the fabric t the lower part of the top corse with roog nails. Somegardeners recommen drilling 1" -di. weep holes i the bottom timber corse at 2-ft.intervas. Fill with a blend of soil peat moss and fertilizer (if desired) to within 2 or 3"of the top.


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How to Build a Raised Bed from a Kit

1 Raised garden bed kits come in many styles. Sme have modlar plastic orcomposite panels that t together with grooves or with hardware. Others featre woodpanels and metal corer hardware. Most kits can be stacked to increase bed height.


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UJI"L. assemble the panels and corner brackets hinge singthe incded hardware. Follow the kit instrctions, making sre all corners are sqare.


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3 Set the box down xperimenting with exact positioning ntil o nd jst the spotand angle yo like. Be sre to observe the sn over an entire day when choosing thesnniest spot yo can for growing vegetables. Ct arond the edges of the planting bedbox wih a sqare-nose spade move the box and ten slice off the sod in the bed area.


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4 Set the bed box onto the installatin site and check it for level. dd or remove soil asneeded ntil it is level. Stake the box to the grond ith the provied hardare. ddadditioal box kits on top of or next o the rst box. Follo the manfactrer 'sinstrctions for conneting the modlar nits. Line he bed or beds ith landscape fabricand ll ith soil to ithin 2" or so of the top.


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Container Gardening

If u' h d pc bu hv u p lk abalcony, stoop, porch, roof, or even windowsill, then you hae thepotential to plant a productive vegeable garden. Many plants

ourish in small planters o other portable containers, and with afew well-managed containers, you can yield a sizable bounty for a

couple or small family. In some ways, container gardening is

easier than having a full-blown vegetable garden: There are fewer

weeds (if any) , pests are less problematic, and diseases are easierto avoid. You also need ewer tools and plans can easily be

moved to accommodate temperature uctuations and lightshade

patterns. If you ' re a beginner gardener just wanting to try your

hand at growing your own food, container gardening could be a

great solution for you.


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If you've never tried gardening container gardening is a good way to stat.


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Fh l

Do not reuse soil if you're growing tomatoes or other plantsthat are susceptible to blight and fungus. Aer the growing

season is concluded, collect the soil from sensitive plantcontainers and disperse it into hardy planting beds.

The key to successful container gardening is water. Because oftheir limited size, even the largest containers simply cannot hold

the amount of water the pants need to thrive without watering

once every dayextremely thirsty plants may even need o be

watered more freuently than that. Vegetable plants are especiallythirsty, but herbs and fruit tees or bushes need caeful watering as

well. Mature tomato plants may need as much as a gallon of waterevery day to grow those juicy, delicious fruits. I you bury your

finge in the pot and you feel any dry soileven 2" downit's

time o water.

Sol in container gardens is imporant too. A reliable rule of

thumb is to use a 5050 mix of potting soil to compost. Soil fromyour property typically won't hold water as well as potting soil on

its own, so it's best not to use it in container gardens without

adding a significant amount of organc fertilizer, which you canbuy at the garden center or mix yourself. The following pages

provide guidelines about the types of containers you can use and

step-by-step instructions to help you build your own panterboxes.


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What to Grow

Most plants that grow well in your garden will also thrive in

containers. Root vegetables are perhaps the only exception to thisrule. Keep in mind that the larger the plant the larger the

container you'll need. Generally, the plant should not be morethan wice the height of the pot or 1 - 12 times as wide. Use theguidelines below as a rough guide.

C 4 6" dp: Mustard greens, radishes, and spinachcan al grow in shallow containers.

C l 8 dp: Corn (container must be at least 2 1 "wide, however, and house at least three plants to assure

pollination) , kale , lettuce.

C l 12 " dp : Beans, beets, brussel spouts,cabbage (should also be pretty wide) , carrots, chard, collards,

kohlrabi , onion, peas, turnips, zucchin.

C l 16" dp: Cucumber, eggplant, peppers.

C l 20" dp: Broccoli, bok choy, Chinesecabbage.

M h 24" dp: Suash, tomatoes .


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Cntainer Types and Recmmendatins

As a container gardener, you ' ll uickly discover hat the universeof usable containers is infinitely larger than the plain clayowerpot. Essentially, any sturdy, watertight container will do.

Large containers like wine barrels or old wash tubs and smallercontainers like an ice cream pail or 5-gallon bucket can all be

good for different kinds of plants . Large wooden roughs and DIY

planter boxes can be customized to your garden (and are fun to

make, too) . When building your own planters, it s a good idea to

line he inside with perforated polyethylene sheeting beforeadding potting soil to protect the wood from ro and to make it

easier to empty out soil aer a season.

Always make sure tha the container you choose did notpreviously hold any kind of chemical and, if it does not already

have them, drill drainage holes near the bottom of the conainerbefore filling with soil. If you'll be using large containers, it's

usualy a good idea to place them on a platform tted with castersbefore filling them with potting soil.

Self-watering pots make container gardening less of a drain onyour time. These containers are, essentially, a owerpot se just

above a reservor of water With this type of container, the soil

above will wick up moisture from the reservoir as it needs it

keeping the soil consistently moist throughout and eliminating thepossibility of over-watering. With a self-watering container you

may only need o add water every three to four days, and yourplants will likely be less stressed. Ideally, your plants will

therefore provide a more sizable crop at the end o the season.


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Many varieties of vgetables and fruits can be grown in pots, planters, and othervesselsjst make sre to select a container that is the right size for yor plant andalways add ample dranage holes if tey're not already present.


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Spinach leaf lettuce and a few shallots co-exist in this self-watering planter. Selfwaterig containers have a water reservoir below to keep the soil in the pot moist. llyo hae to do is keep the reservoir fll and rainfall may even tak care of this fr yo.


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oPlanter Bxes

Decoating a garden is much like decorating a room in your homeit's nice to have pieces that are adaptable enough that you canmove them around occasionally and create a completely new look.

Aer all, most of us can't buy new furniture every time we gettired of the way our living rooms look. And we can ' t build o buy

new garden furnishings eery time we want to rearrange the

garden.

That's one of the reasons this trio of planter boxes works so

well . In addition to being handsomeespecially when owers arebursting out of themthey're incredibly adaptable. You can

follow these plans to build a terrific tro of planter boxes that will

go well with each other and will complemen most gardens,patios, and decks. Or you can tailor the plans to suit your needs.

For instance, you may wan three boxes that are exactly the samesize. Or you might want to build several more and use them as a

border that encloses a patio or frames a terraced area.Whatever the dimensions of the boxes, the basic construction

steps are the same. If you decide to alter the desgns, take a littletime to figure out the new dimensions and sketch plans. Then

devise a new cutting list and do some planning so you can make

efficient use of materials. To save cutting time clamp together

parts that are the same size and shape and cut hem as a group

called gang cutting .

When your planter boxes have worn out their welcome in onespot, you can easily move them to another, perhaps with a fresh

coat of stain, and add new plantings. You can even use the taller

boxes to showcase outdoor relief sculpturesa kind of alfresco

sculpure gallery.


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Whether you build nly one or all three, these handy cedar platers are small enoghto mov arond yor gardens and inside yor greenhose or garden shed


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Buiding Panter Boxes

A

, W L


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CUTTING LIST

x D x i

pane l 5 1 1 5

2 x 1 V " 0 0 ;

ner

Y

m

1 7 3% 1 ) 8 D % x l 1

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TOOLS AN MATERIALSTape measureCircular saw

StraightedgeDrill

Finishing sanderMiter box and backsaw3) 8ft. cedar 1 x 2s6) 8ft. cedar 1 x 4s4 x 8ft. sheet of 58" T 1 - 1 1 siding

2 x 4ft. piece 34 " CDX plywood1 - 14 galvanized deck screws1 -58 galvanized deck screws

6d gavanized finish nails

Exteror wood stain

PaintbrushLandscape fabric


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How to Build Planter Boxes

1 Cut all the wood parts to size accrding to the Ctting List on . Use a irclarsaw and a straightedge ctting gide to rip siding panels (if yo have accss to atablesaw se that instead). Yo can make all three sizes or any combination yochoose.


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2 Assemble the box frame. Place the end panel face down and btt it against a sidepanel. Mark the locations of several asteners on the side panel. Drill conterbored 3/32"pilot hles in the side panel at the marked locations and fasten the side panel to the endpanel with 1-5/8" deck screws. Fasten the opposite side panel the same way. ttach theother ed panel with eck screws.


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3 corner trim. Position one piece corner trim cornerfasten to the panels wth 1-5/8" galvanized deck screws driven int the trim from theinside f the box. Place the second piece of trim sh to the edge f the rst piece,

creating a sqare btt joint. ttach t the panel with 1 -5/8" galvanized deck screws. Forextra spport, end nai the two trim pieces together at the corner with galvanized nishnails.


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4 Attach the bottom trim. Fasten the bottom trim to the end an side panels, betweenthe corer trim pieces and sh with the bottom o the box. Drive 1-1" deck screwsthrogh the panels frm the inside t fasten the trim pieces to the box.


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5 cp pieces. Ct 5 miters at one cap piece sing a mterand backsaw or a power miter saw. ack this piece to the top end of the box with theotside edges sh wth the oter edges of the corer trim. Miter oth ends of each

piece ad tack to the box to make a sqare corner with the previosly installed piece.Once al caps are tacked in position and the miters are closed clealy attach the cappieces sing 6d galanized nish nails.


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6 Screw to the nside of the edpanels with 1 -5/8" deck screws If yr planter is extremely tall, fasten the cleats higheron the panels so yo won't need as mch soil to l the box If dong so, add cleats on

the sid panels as well for extra spport.


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te bottom. Ct the bottom panel to size from 3/" -thick exterior-rated pwood. Drill several 1 " -dia. drainage holes in the panel and set it onto the cleats.The botom panel does not need to be fastened in pace bt for extra strength nail it to

the clets and box sides with galvanized finish nails.


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i;

line the planter box with landscape fabric stapling t at the top of he box. Trim fffabric t least a cople of inches belw the top of the box. dd a 2 " -layer of gravel or

stones then ll with a 50/50 mix of potting soil an compost. TIP: dd wheels rcasters to yor planter boxes before lling them wih soil. Be sre to se locking wheelsor castrs with brass or plastic hosngs.


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Building an ld-fashined StrawberryBarrel

Container gardens aren' tjust for vegetablesfrut trees and berry

bushes also thrive in a potted garden environment and can

produce enough fruit for a family to enjoy throughout thesummer. Strawberries, which typicaly grow in long rows or

patches in the ground, can also be grown in a converted barrel.Two can be enough space to grow the euivalent of 25 feet of

strawberry plants. For this project make sure you chooseeverbearing strawberry varieties, and cut off runners for

transplanting when they appear. Insulate your barels with hay orstraw during the winter, and you can enjoy a strawberry crop for

several years. To keep your barrel going, start fresh every four or

five years with new plants and new soil.


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A strawberry barre planter can grow the eqivlent of 25 ft. of strawberry plants;choose everbearing varieties for best reslts


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TOOLS & MATERIALSLarge clean barrel (55-gallon plastic or wood)Pry bar or jigsaw

3"-dia. hole sawDrill

4 " -dia. PVC PipeWindow screen or hardware clothGravelPotting soil mix

Strawberry pants


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How to Build a Strawberry Barrel

1 Prepare the barrel. If yor barrel has a lid or clsed top remove it with a pry bar. Ifyor barrel does not have a lid ct a large opening in the top with ajigsaw. Beginningabot 1 ft. above the grond se a hole saw to ct 3" -dia. plantig holes arond thebarrel abot 10" apart. Stagger the oles diagonaly in each row and space the rowsabot 10" apart. Leave at least 12" above the top rw of holes. Flip the barrel over anddrill abot a half dozen 12" -dia. drainage holes in the bottom.


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2 Prepare the watering pipe. Ct a section of " -dia. PVC pipe to t inside the barrelfrom top to bottom. Pnch or drill 3/" -dia. holes i the pipe every to 6 " all the wayarond Ct a section of window scren or hardware cloth to t iside the bottom of the

barrel and place it insde. Cover the screen with 2" of gravel or small rocks.


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3 Begin to ll the barel with soil. Have a friend hold the watering pipe in the ceter ofthe barrel and ll the pipe with coarse gravel. Then begin to add soil to the bottom ofthe barrel, packing it rmly arond te watering pipe in the bottom with a piece f scrap

lmber dd water to help the soil settle. Contining adding soil ntil yo reach thebottom of yor first rw of planting holes.


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4 Careflly insert yor strawberry plants into the holes spreadingthe roos into a fan shpe. dd soil on top of the rots and lightly water. Contine to addsoil and plants packig soil gently and watering afer each plantig ntil yo reach the

top of the barrel. Do ot cover the watering pipe. Pant additional strawberries o top ofthe barrel. Insert a hose into the watering pipe and rn water for several mintes to givethe barel a good soaking.


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Bulding a Cold Frame

A xpv f ghu gdg, cld fis practical for starting plants six to eight weeks earlier in thegrowng season and for hardening off seedlings. Basically, a cold

frame is a box set on the ground and topped with glass or pastic.Although mechanized models with thermostatically contolled

atmospheres and sash that automatically open and close are

available, you can easily build a basi cold frame yourself from

materials you probably already have aound the house.


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Starting plants early in a cold frame is a great way to get a head start on the growingseason. cold frame s also a great place for hardening off delicae seedlings to preparethem fr transplanting.


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The back of the frame should be about twice as tall as the frontso the lid slopes to a favorable angle for capturing sunrays. Build

the frame tall enough to accommodate the maximum height of the

plants before they are removed. The fame can be made of brick,

block, plastic , wood, or just about any material you have on hand.It should be buil to keep dras out and soil in.

If he frame s permanently sited, position it facing south to

receie maximum light during winter and spring and to offerprotection from wind. Partially burying it takes advantage of the

insulation from the earth, but it also can cause water to collect and

the direct soil contact will shorten the lifespan of the wood frame

parts. Locating your frame near a wall, rock, or building addsadditional insulation and protection from the elements. TI: Theideal temperature inside is 65 to 75 F during the day and 55 to

65 at night. Keep an inexpensive thermometer n a shaded spotinside the frame for uick reference. A bright spring day can heat

a cold frame to as warm as 100 , so pop up or remove the cover

as necessary to prevent oveheating. And remember, the more youvent, the more you should water. On cold nights, especially when

frost is predicted, cover the box with burlap, old uilts, or leavesto keep it warm nside.


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A shold only be sed dring the earl, cooler days f the growing seasonwhen delicate seedlings need that extra protection, and for late-sason frost protection.Once the warmer weather arrives and the plants are established, remove and reloate thecold frame. Ongoing sage will overheat and kill the plants. nd while the clear acryliclid on tis cold frame is desirable becase it is safer to work with and se than glass, toomch heat bildp ca case the acrlic to warp.


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Building a Cold Frame

,

A

\

CUTTING LIST

Ky No.

A B

C 1

E 2

f

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z

6 -

8

7

M

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. I


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TOOLS AN MATERIALS(2) 3 x 3" butt hinges (ext.)(2) 4" utility handles

(4) Corner L-brackets (34 x 2-12")(1) 34" x 4 x 8 ft Plywood (Ext.)18 x 37 x 38" clear PlexiglasExterior caulkadhesiveExterior wood glueExterior paint

2 " deck screws

#8 x 34" wood screwsCircular sawDrilldriver

Pipe camps

Straightedge cutting guide


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How to Build a Plywood Cold Frame

1 Cut the prts. This project, as dimensioned, is designed to be made entirely from asingle x 8 sheet of plwood. Start by ctting the plywood lenghwise to make a 3 6"wide pece. TIP: Remove material n " wide strips and se the strips to make the lidframe parts and any other trim yo may want to add.


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2 Trim the parts to size with a circlar saw or jigsaw and ctting gide. Mark thectting lines rst (See Diagram, 5 1 ) .


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3 Assemble the fron back, and side panels into a sqare box. Gle the joints andclamp them together with pipe or bar clamps. djst ntil the coers are sqare.


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4 Reinorce the joins with 2" deck screwsDrive a screw every 4 to 6" along each joint.


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5 Make the lid frame. Ct the "-wide strips of 3/" plwood reserved from ste 1 intoframe parts. ssemble the frame pars into a sqare 38 x 39 " frame. There are manyways t join the parts so they create a at frame. Becase the Plexiglas cover wll givethe lid some rigidity simply gling the joints and reinforcing wit an L-bracket at eachinside corner is adeqate strctrally.


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6 Pain the box and the frame with exterior paint, preferably in an enamel nish. darker olor will hold more solar heat.


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Lay thick beads of clear exterior adhesive/calk onto the tops f the frames and thenseat the Plexiglas cover into the adhesive. Clean p sqeeze-ot right away. One theadhesie has set attach the lid with btt hinges and attach the handles to the sides.


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to the site. Clear and level the grond where it will se. Somegardenrs like to excavate the site slightlysee disssion on pag 9 .


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Starting & Transplanting Seedlings

Add wk u gd' gwg b g dindoors, then transplanting them to the garden aer the danger offrost is past. Seedlings are available for purchase at the garden

cente in the spring, of course, but starting your own at homepresents a number of advantages:

Seedlings a lot f water, snlight, and warmt in their infany. itchen windowor greehose is an ideal growing environment for ropagating plants.


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Using colored cups as starter continers has the advantage of letting yo color-codeyor pants so yo cn avoid any onfsion. Beginning gardeners oten have trobledistingishing one pot from another when they are still seedlings. Here, the red cpsclearly commnicate tomato .


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Growing Mediums

If you plan to use your own garden soil or compost, prepare your

seedlng containers in the fall, before the ground gets too cold andwet.

Almost any small container can be used to grow seedlings. Justmake sure the container you use is clean and hasn't had contactwith any chemical that could be poisonous o plants. Also,remember to cut a drainage hole in the bottom of your conainer

before filling it with soil. Drainage is very important to ensure

that your plants are well ventilated. Excessively moist sol canresult in mold or other diseases, as well. Good options forseedlng containers include

Peat pots or pellets

Fiber cubes

Used plastic jugs

Cans (any size) Used plastic tubs (i. e . , sour cream,

cottage cheese, or margarine containers) Used yogur cups

Egg cartons

Small paper cups


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oStarting Seedlings

1. lg: Sow three to four seeds in each containeraccording to he instructions on the seed packetas a generalrue, large seeds should be buried and smal seeds can be

spinkled on top of the soil. Label he container with the typeof plant and the date your seeds were planted.

2. G: Water he seeds whenever the containers lookdry. Until the seeds sprout, keep seedlings in a dark, warm

space. Cover germinating seeds wih plastic bags or pastic

wrap Open the plastic for a few hours every few days to let thesoil breathe, then re-close.

3. Spu: When the seeds sprout remove plastic coveringand move them into direct light. Seedlings need lots of light togrow. Keep the soil medium moist but not soggy. Remember,

multiple light waterings are better for seedlings than theoccasional soaking.

4. Cullg: When the true leaves appear see illustration , cutoff all but the strongest seedling in each container at soil level.Do not pull up the unwanted seedlings, as this may damage theroots of the seedling you're cultivatng. You may also choose

to fertilize every week or so as your seedlings grow.


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S b /to

The four stages in the growth of a seedling are illustrated above. Note that seed leaves

and tr leaves serve different prposes and will lok different. When a plant has to 8tre leaves it is ready for transplantig.


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oHardening ff and Transplantng

When your seedlings have four to eight true leaves, they shouldbe hardened off, then transplanted to the garden. Hardening off is

the process of gradually introducing the plant to outdoorconditions so it is not shocked when you move it outside

permanently. About two weeks before planting, place your

seedlngs outdoors for an hour the fist day, and then gradually

increase the time until your seedlings spend the whole day

outside. Protect seedlings from wind and do not expose them tothe midday sun for the first few days. Stop fertilizing seedlings

during the last week. A cold frame is a great environment for

hardening off seedlings. Seedlings can stay in a cold frame for

two to three weeks, gradually getting used to the cooler air andchilly nights before they go out into the garden. Open the lid ofthe cold frame a little bit more each day.

Transplant your seedlings into the garden on a cloudy day or in

late aernoon to avoid excessive drying from the sun. Remove

seedlngs gently from thei containers, holding as much soil as

possible around the roots (containers that are pressed from peatare not intended to be removed) . Place each into a hole in your

garden, spreading the roots carefully, then pack soil around the

seedlng to hold it straight and strong. Thoroughly soak all

seedlngs with a very gentle water spray aer they've been

planted. If you have a rain barrel or another souce for untreatedwater, this is a perfect application for it: The chlorine in mostmunicipal water can be harmful to delicate plants.


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Bulding Greenhouse

Ulzg ghu g w xd d dvfyour garden, enabling you o grow more food fo a longer periodof timeand perhaps even grow foods that wouldn't otherwise

survive in your climate. A greenhouse can be a decorative andfunctonal buildng that adds beauty to your property, or a uick

and easy temporary strucure that serves a purpose and then

disappears. The wood-framed greenhouse in this project is

somewhere between these two types. The sturdy woodconstuction will hold up for many seasons. The plastic sheeting

covering will last one to five seasons, depending on the material

you choose, and is easy to replace when it starts to degrade.


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A wood-frame greenhose with sheet-plastic cover is an inexpensive semipermanentgardening strctre that can be sed as a potting area as well as a protective greehose.


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The five-foothigh kneewalls in this design provide amplespace for installing and working on a conventional-height potting

table. For a door, this plan simply employs a sheet of weighted

plastic that can be tied out of the way for entry and exit. I you

plan to go in and out freuently, you can purchase a prefabriatedgreenhouse door from a garden center or greenhouse materials

provider. To allow for ventilation in hot weather, we built a wood

frame vent cove that fits over one rafer bay and can be proppedopen easily.


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The idal greenhouse location is well away from trees bt protected from prevailingwinds sally by anoher strctre fence or a wall.


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For maximum heat gain orient yor greenhose so the roof r wall with the mostsrface area is as close to perpendicular to the snrays as it can be


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Building a Greenhouse

CUTTING LIST

N

til

2 Base Y z lndcp

B x 1 3 " 4 ln 1imbrC

2 So t 3 2

l side 1 2 0 pru e Wl 2 4

l I, x Y 9 G

2 Bk 3 2 4 2 Do fam l ' 8 *

C ' 4 1 D ' ) K

2 K ' 3 x

L

' * 4

A dime15on; acul th g suro


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c

TOOLS & MATERIALS() 20 x 50-ft. roll 4 or 6-mil polyethylene sheeting or greenhousefabric, tack strips

( 2) 24 " -long pieces of No . 3 rebar

(4) 6-ft. pressure-treated 2 x 4(2) exterior-rated butt hinges() screw-eye lach(8) 8 timber screws

Reciprocating saw

Level

Carpenter' s suareDrill with a nut driver bit

Eye and ear protecionetal cutoff saw

aul or sledgehammerSpeed suare


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3 " deck screwsExteror panel adhesive

Caulk gun

Hammer

Jigsaw or handsawiter saw

Circular saw

Utility knifePneumatic nailer

ScissorsScrap 2 4

Pencil


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How to Build a Gabled Greenhouse

1 Prepare the installation area so it is at and well drained; then ct the base imbers( x landscape timbers) to length. rrange the timbers so they are lat and level andcreate a rectangle wit sqare corners. Drive a pai of 8" timber screws at each cornersing a drill/driver with a nt -driver bit.


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2 Cut 2 pieces of No. 3 rebar (nd it in the concrete spplies section of any bildingcenter) to 2" in length to se as spies for secring the timbers to the grond A metalctoff saw or a reciprocating saw wih a metal ctting blade can be sed to make thects. Dill a 3/8" gide hole throgh each timber near each end and in the middle. Drivea rebar spike at each hole with a mal or sledgehammer ntil the top is sh wit thewood.


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two . rrange partson a at srface and assemble the walls by driving three 3" deck screws throgh the capand base plates and into the ends of the stds. Make both kneewalls.


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of each kneewall on the timber base and attach the walls by driving3" deck screws down hrogh the base plates and into the timbers. For extra holdingpower, yo can apply exterior panel adhesive to the ndersides of the plates, bt only if

yo do't plan to reloate the strctre later.


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6 Set the ridge pole on top of the posts and check tat it is level. Alsoposts are level and plumb. ttach a 2 x brace to the oter stds of the kneewalls and tothe posts to hold them in sqare relationship. Dobe-check the pole and posts ith thelevel.


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Cut 2 4 to abo 66" to se as rafter teplate. Hold the 2 against the end ofthe ridge pole and the top otside coner of a kneewall. Trace alog the face of the ridgeand the top plate of the wall to ark ctting lines. Ct the rafter ad se it as a teplatefor the other raters o that side of the roof. Create a separate teplate for the other sideof the roof.


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9 scews diventog pilot oles. Ty to ake te aftes align it te kneewall stds.


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remaininglocatio, old a 2 x on end on te base plate and make it level and plmb. Trace actting line at te top of te 2 x were it meets te rater. Ct te stds and istalltem by driving scres toenail-style.


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11 Measure up 78" (or less if yo want a sorter door) fro te sole plate in te dooropening and ark a ctting line on te teporary idge post. Mae a sqare c alongte line wit a circlar saw or cordless tri saw (iset) . Ten ct te door eader to tbetween te vertical oor frae ebers. Screw te eader to te ct end of te ridgepost and drive screws trog te frae ebers and into te eader.


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12 Begin covering greenhose with yor choice of cover maerial. sed 6-milpolyethylene sheeting.) Start at the ends. Ct the sheeting to size and then faste it byattachig screen retaier strips to wood srfaces at the edges of the area being covered.Tack the sheeting rst at the top the at the sides ad nally at the bottom. fter thestrips are installed (se wire brads) trim the sheetig along the edges of the strips with atility knife.


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13 Attach the sheeting to the otside edge of the ase plate on one side. Roll sheetingover th roof and down the other side. Draw it tat and ct it sligtly overlong withscissors. ttach retainer strips to the other base plate and then to te otside edges of thecorner stds.


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14 Make and hang a doo. We siply ct a piece f seet plastic a little bigge tan teopening (32") and g it wit etaie stips fo e eade ttc a piece of 2 x tote bott of te doo fo weigt.


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15 O: vent window. First ct a hole in the roof in oe rater bay ad tackthe ct edges of the plastic to the facs not the edges) of the raters ridge pole and wallcap. Then bild a frame from 1 x 2 sock that will san from the ridge to the top f thekneewall and extend a cople of inches past the rafters at the side f the opening. Cladthe frame with plastic sheeting and attach it to the ridge pole with btt hinges. Install ascrew-eye latch to secre it at the bttom. Make ad attach props if yo wish.


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Bulding Hoophouse

Th hphu ppul gd ucu f w reasons: It is cheap to build and easy to build. In manyagricultural areas you will see hoophouses snaking across vast

fields of seedlings protecing the delicate plants at their mostvulnerable stages. Because they are portable and easy to

disassemble they can be removed when the plants are established

and less vulnerable.

A hoophouse is a temporary agricltral strctre designed to be low-cost and portable.lso called Qonset oses and tnel hoses, hophoses proide shelter and shade


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(depending on the lm yo se) an protection from wind and the elements. They willboost heat dring the day, bt are less ecient tha paneled greenhoses for extendingthe growing season.


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While hoophouses are not intended as inexpensive substitutesfor real greenhouses, they do serve an imporant agricultural

purpose. And building your own is a fun project that the whole

family can enjoy.

The hoophouse shown here is essenially a Quonset-style rameof bent 34" PVC tubing draped with sheet plastic. Each

semicircular frame is actually made from two -ft. lengths of

tubing that fit into a plastic fitting at the apex of the curve. PVCtubes tend to stay together simply by friction-fitting into the

fittings, so you don't normally need to solvent glue the

connections (this is important to the easy-to-disassemble and store

feature) . If you experience problems with the frame connectionsseparating, try cutting 4" to 6"-long pieces of 2 " (outside

diameter) PVC tubing and inserting them into the tubes and

fittings like splines. This will stiffen the connections.


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can be made frm wood instead of PVC plastic. Wood allows yoto attac plastic seeting wit retainer strips and staples.


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Building & Siting a Hoophouse

The fact that a hoophouse is a temporary structure doesn't give

you lcense to skimp on the construction. When you consider howlight the parts ae and how many properties sheet plastic shares

with boat sails, the importance of securely anchoring yourhoophouse becomes obvious. Use long stakes at least 24 ) toanchor the tubular frames and make sure you have plenty ofexcess sheeting at the sides of the hoophouse so he cover can be

held down with ballast. Creating pockets at he ends of the

sheetng and inserting scrap lumber is the ballasting techniueshown here, but it is also common (especially when building in afield) to weigh down the sheeting by burying he ends in dirt.

Only attach the sheeting at the ends of the tubular frame, and

where possible, orient the structure so the prevailing winds won't

blow through the tunnel.


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Buldg Hphu

Space frame hoops about 3 ft. apart. Leave ridge members a fraction of an inch (not more than

4 ") shorter than the span, which will cause the structure tobe slightly shorter on top than at the base. This helps

stabilize the structure. Orient the structure so the wall faces into the prevailing

wind rather than the end openings.

If you are using long-lasting greenhouse fabric for the

cover, protect the investment by spray-painting the frame

hoops with primer so there is no plastic-to-plastic contact.

Because hoophouses are temporary structures that aredesigned to be disassembled or moved regularly, you do not

need to include a ba

25 Ways to Build a Self Reliant

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