26 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2014 textileinsight.com

Textiles Are Fashioning a New Wardrobe of Cold-Weather Clothing and Footwear / By Emily Walzer

WINTER WEATHER REPORT

There’s a saying in New England that locals often repeat when

people are caught off guard by unexpected rain or unusual cold:

If you don’t like the weather, just wait a minute and it will change.

This old adage has come to have contemporary relevance as

unpredictable conditions are no longer a regional phenomenon,

but stretch clear across the U.S. and around the globe.

As such, fiber and fabric companies are rethinking product development.

Characteristics such as weight, durability, types of finishes and performance

features are all evolving to meet today’s environmental challenges.

Textile execs explain that new and better solutions are coming to market that suit

a more temperamental Mother Nature and her increasingly capricious behavior. For

example the latest materials are engineered to provide comfort no matter how wildly

the temperature fluctuates. A “season-less” approach to fabric development is also

taking hold so that collections are no longer tagged “winter-specific.”

Materials that offer lightweight performance for year-round wearability are the

priority. This translates to more blends, more topical treatments, an increase in knits

and fabrics that compress and pack easily.

While no one goes so far as saying outwear is on the outs, developers readily

admit the category is changing. Robert Fry, director of merchandising for Mountain

Hardwear explains, “Outerwear isn’t going anywhere, it’s just transforming in new

and compelling ways.” Fry’s full interview, along with interviews with other brand

designers, appears on the following pages.

Here, leading textile providers offer their seasonal fabric forecast. “Two words come

to mind,” comments Polartec CEO Gary Smith: “volatility and versatility – whether you

are talking about the climate outside or a personal micro-climate.” Additional quotes

from Smith, along with responses from execs at Concept III, Cordura, Sympatex, Gore,

Outlast, Unifi, FiberVision, Lenzing, and Schoeller appear here.

January/February 2014 ~ Textile Insight • 27textileinsight.com

How is the weather playing a role in your product development? Are today’s changing weather patterns influencing characteristics such as weight, versatility, durability, types of finishes and performance features?

Cordura, Cindy McNaull: “The push for us is durable fabrics for durable people. But now we look at new ways to make something “durable plus.” For example Cordura Naturale started with bottom weights and wovens, then evolved into 2 and 4-way stretch and now we are combining it with wool for Cordura Naturale Wool. There is also more interest in knits driven by demand for moisture management and thermo-regulation.

Unifi, Jay Herzwig: Changing weather patterns create demand in the market for more functional fabrics – thermal regulation (heating/cooling), lighter weight, wind resistance, breathability and all around increased comfort level. Ideally, the market is looking for lighter weight fabrics with insulating properties. Synthetics drive performance, and polyester and nylon are naturally lightweight, durable and moisture wicking. We continue to develop synthetics with improved hand and a more natural or cotton-like appearance.

Concept III, David Parkes: Certainly there has been a transition to high performance but lightweight textiles. Years ago, 300g weight fleece was as popular as 200g. Now 300 is no longer required. Pile Sherpa has gone from 500/600g to 350/400g weight. Down is so light that you can stuff it into a pocket.

Schoeller, Tom Weinbender: Technology is the driver, and the ability to offer multiple comfort levels. Softshell is the best example of

Outlast, Heather Manuel: Recently we worked with a new, winter-focused outdoor customer. Once they understood that our tech reduces humidity, and that less humidity means less chill, it clicked for them. (The testing system used to show the difference in humidity with and without Outlast is available at http://www.cruss-netconsult.com/en_GB/home.html).

Has the time come to re-imagine textiles for a new year-round climate? Is traditional outerwear becoming obsolete?

Concept III, David Parkes: There’s no doubt that 10 to 15 years of milder winters have given greater attention to layering for winter. It has made people realize that you don’t need a heavyweight, $500 down parka that you may only wear three times a season. But you do need an insulated piece for $150 or $190 that you can wear for skiing, or wear on a Sunday afternoon when you need to go out and the weather is ugly. We see growth in softshell and growth in

many iterations of fleece.

Lenzing, Tricia Carey: Because of changeable weather the accessories market is more important. I’m always with a scarf, along with other layering effects. This fall I’ve traveled to Paris, Hong Kong and Istanbul and packed the same things – Tencel jeans, scarves, a leather jacket. These items work for any time, and type of weather. They can be packed, layered, and perform and look good.

Polartec, Gary Smith: At the 2013 Giro d’Italia the joke was that this year was the first time a winner was crowned without a sun tan! The weather was miserable, and cyclists were realizing the need for different kind of garments. Whether packing for a business trip, training for a race, or pursuing an outdoor activity people want products that are versatile. It all comes down to air permeability that you can dial up, or dial down. The days of two-dimensional performance are over and now products must have breathability, weather protection,

and stretch. You want a 3D solution.

Schoeller, Tom Weinbender: Softshell plays a big role in the evolution of a year-round approach to fabric development and we now offer softshell fabrics in a broad range from 100 to 500g weights. We believe the category will continue to grow as you now see softshells in all categories, not just outdoor, but street wear in the form of blazers, and in urban bike wear. Wool, too, is a growth area and has become a major part of the Schoeller program.

Unifi, Jay Herzwig: No, traditional outerwear is not becoming obsolete. But it does drive research and product development toward lighter weight and more functional fabrics.

Sympatex, Stephen Kerns: I still see newcomers and major established outdoor brands making top tier pinnacle pieces for extreme weather however they are really thinking of costs /sell-through heavily.

WINTER WEATHER REPORT

30 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2014 textileinsight.com

APPAREL DESIGNER Q&A

W e asked product devel-opers and designers from leading outdoor firms how increasing

extreme shifts in weather are chang-ing the way they pick and choose fabrics, insulations, finishes and per-formance technologies. We wanted to know, for example, if weather was playing a role in down becoming more suitable for year-round wear. If layering as a concept is becoming more or less important. Is lightweight the priority? Is versatility the driving factor? Are garments more hybrid constructions? Here’s what nine top apparel makers had to say:

Robert Fry, director of prod-uct merchandising, Mountain Hardwear: For a technical brand like us, where, historically our prod-

uct line consisted of Winter and Summer, ostensibly, we’re seeing a tremendous shift toward shoulder season apparel – silhouettes that can be used for a variety of activities in a variety of conditions.

In general, lighter weight and extended breathability are para-mount, I think because warming weather conditions don’t always equate to weather stability. These days, more than ever, weather proof constructions also need to work com-fortably in warmer temps.

Breathability and extended com-fort is key regardless of the type of garment – from a rain shell to an insulated parka. And, as general warming temps, or unreliable weath-er becomes the norm, greater water-proofness combined with extended comfort becomes the mandate.

Truly, down becoming more suit-able for year-round wear – especially now that we’ve solved for super light down-proof taffetas and extraordi-narily lightweight constructions. That coupled with our Q.Shield water-resistant treatment vastly extends the possibilities with down. Down has gone, in a very short time, from heavy duty insulation suited only for very cold temps, to daily wear when put in the right silhouette.

Layering is as important as it’s ever been, particularly as weather becomes less predictable. As temps have increased this past decade cou-pled with users opting for shorter, more intense activities, breathability and versatility become the operative mandates in the design process.

Outerwear is evolving to meet the needs of end users. This may be

Is Versatility in Fabrics and Design the Answer to Climate Change?

“Benefits like waterproofness, warmth, durability and stretch are now requirements, not just ‘nice to haves’.”JORDAN WAND

A QUESTION OF WEATHER OR NOT

WINTER WEATHER REPORT

32 • Textile Insight ~ January/February 2014 textileinsight.com

due to changes in end-user behavior, changes in weather, or a combination of both. Whatever the case, outerwear isn’t going anywhere, it’s just trans-forming in new and compelling ways. The need to adapt is exactly the thing that keeps the team here motivated and inventive!

Kate Larramendy, style director, Horny Toad: While we never said to ourselves “let’s design for climate change…” we have been very con-scious to design for flexibility and adaptation – perhaps an overused word, but at the core of everything we do is versatility.

I’d make the analogy that in nature there are generalist and specialist species. Generalists are adaptable and thrive in a wide variety of envi-ronmental conditions while special-ists only thrive in a narrow range of conditions. They suffer (or die) when conditions are not favorable.

Our focus is on generalist textiles that are inherently useful over the broadest range of day-to-day life conditions. So lightweight, layerable, comfortable, cozy, sweat-able (mois-ture management), stinkless, easy to care for and beautiful are key. We look to aesthetic versatility in textiles as well so our clothes are not niched into outdoor only and serve as a bridge between the worlds of outdoor and modern daily life.

There will always be the need for specialists species textiles and prod-ucts but they are certainly vulnerable to the wild swings in weather. In a poor winter hard-core outerwear is a vulnerable category.

Jordan Wand, VP product design, Outdoor Research: We are definitely finding that consumers are looking for fabrics that perform in all of their products, whether they’re taking them deep into the backcountry or only using them in a mountain lifestyle environment. Benefits like waterproof-ness, warmth, durability and stretch are now requirements, not just “nice to haves.” When asked what they want, the answer more times than not is “all of the above” when it comes to a list of performance benefits. Said another way, the consumer is looking for a high level of versatility in their fabrics, and ultimately their garments.

The name of the game is versatility.

Down continues to be very popular, but now it’s about warmth and stay-ing dry. Our Floodlight Jacket meets that need with a new and better solu-tion to the problem of waterproof down. Product is expected to go from the trail to the bonfire effortlessly. The expectation is that a product works great in a wide range of conditions but looks great too. Layers are still important and a “system of dress” is still critical, but pieces are expected to have a broader range of use within an athlete’s wardrobe.

I wouldn’t say (outerwear is becom-ing) “obsolete,” but how the con-sumer defines “outerwear” is certainly evolving. Product is expected to work as well in wet stormy conditions as it does in cold dry conditions, while looking as good at home as it does at base camp. It’s a tall order, but the fabrics have certainly evolved along with the expectations of the consum-ers. You can have it all.

Kurt Foster, senior global merchan-diser, Icebreaker: More and more we talk and hear others like our retail-ers talk about weather proofing the business. Because of the changing weather and its unpredictable timing, manufacturers and retailers are look-ing to build items that are versatile and less weather dependent. For us at Icebreaker we have always been about versatility and performance in a wide variety of temperatures and conditions. Merino is the perfect fiber to manage transitioning between con-ditions because of its natural ability to regulate temperature.

We are looking for better ways to develop lighter weight layers that per-form perfectly depending on the wear-ers’ needs. With lightweight merino options you can mix and match your layers depending on the temperature while still feeling light and carrying less. For us it’s important to stay true to merino and we believe it is the miracle fiber, but when and where needed to perform at its best in varied conditions we look for enhancements like water resistant treatments, wind resistant layers, or other natural fibers to enhance the wearers’ experience for a variety of activities.

Lightweight insulation has become a more important part of the business because it represents that growing need for lightweight versatility. Down

and synthetic loft insulations have dominated and grown substantially over the years. We have developed MerinoLoft for this very reason. A lightweight loft insulation regulates temperature, is warm when wet, is breathable and great worn as an outerlayer or midlayer. We do see a growing need for options in the light-weight midlayer category and again merino is the perfect solution.

Outerwear will not become obso-lete with the need for protection from rain and snow continuing. But versatility in midlayers that function as both (water resistance, wind resis-tance, warmth) is growing so that the consumer can use fewer items and combine them as needed depending on conditions. Hybrid items mixing stretch panels, breathable zones and protection elements are a growing category. Not only does it give oppor-tunities to build unique and exciting visual looks with textures and fabrics, it also can enhance performance and create items that function for a variety of activities.

Paul Cosgrove, brand director,Montane: We develop clothing and equipment for extreme and hostile conditions in the mountains. Products are developed for specific activities factoring in both the physiological and environmental conditions that the user will expect to experience. We have been developing lighter and more breathable products over the years (being at the leading edge of fast and light ethos) and I think con-veniently this trend of lightweight kit and clothing suits extreme weather changes because of the versatility of the products. So I would say no, changing weather patterns do not affect the way we choose fabrication or develop the products as develop-ment is always focused on the move-ment, functionality and physiology of the user and extremity of weather during the end use.

We see our garments as equipment not clothing and every detail is there for a reason. The variety and technicality of garments is a product of the continuous need to raise the design bar because of the demand from an ever -sophisticated end user pushing the limits of endurance. So sure, hybrids and innovative usage of construction techniques and

“We’re seeing a tremendous shift toward shoulder season apparel – silhouettes that can be used for a variety of activities in a variety of conditions.”ROBERT FRY

“Products are developed for specific activities factoring in both the physiological and environmental conditions that the user will expect to experience.” PAUL COSGROVE