13

Contents On the Road 4

Italy Highlights 6

Destination Italy 18

Getting Started 20

Festivals & Events Calendar 25

Itineraries 27

History 33

Italian Art 49

The Culture 60

Food & Drink 73

Environment 81

Rome & Lazio 89 ROME 90 History 90 Orientation 92 Information 93 Dangers & Annoyances 111 Sights 112 Walking Tour 140 Courses 140 Tours 142 Festivals & Events 143 Sleeping 144 Eating 150

Architecture 157 Drinking 165 Clubbing 168

Entertainment 171 Shopping 172 Getting There & Away 174 Getting Around 175 LAZIO 179 Ostia Antica 179 Tivoli 181 Etruscan Sites 182 Civitavecchia 184 Viterbo 184 Around Viterbo 187 Castelli Romani 187 Palestrina 189 Along the Coast 190 Isole Pontine 190

Liguria, Piedmont & Valle d’Aosta 192 LIGURIA 193 Genoa 193 Around Genoa 204 Riviera di Levante 205 Riviera di Ponente 215 PIEDMONT 220 Turin 220 The Milky Way 234 Southern & Eastern Piedmont 235 Northern Piedmont 245 VALLE D’AOSTA 245 Aosta 247 Aosta Valley Castles 251 Courmayeur 251 Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso 254 Valtournenche 255 Valle d’Ayas, Val di Gressoney & Valsesia 256

Lombardy & theLakes 259 MILAN 260 History 262 Orientation 262 Information 262 Dangers & Annoyances 263 Sights 263 Tours 271 Festivals & Events 271 Sleeping 271

© Lonely Planet

14 C O N T E N T S

Eating 273 Walking Tour 368 Live to Eat 437 Drinking 274 Venice for Children 369

Shopping 445Entertainment 275 Tours 369 Getting There & Away 445Shopping 277 Festivals & Events 369 Getting Around 446Getting There & Away 277 Sleeping 370 WEST OF BOLOGNA 446

Getting Around 278 Eating 373 Modena 446SOUTH OF MILAN 279 Drinking 376 Around Modena 449Pavia 279 Entertainment 377 Reggio Emilia 450EAST OF MILAN 281 Shopping 378 Around Reggio Emilia 452Bergamo 281 Getting There & Away 378 Parma 452Valtellina 285 Getting Around 380 Around Parma 456Brescia 285 AROUND THE VENETO 381 Piacenza 457Cremona 287 Brenta Riviera 381 Around Piacenza 459Mantua (Mantova) 289 Padua 383 EAST OF BOLOGNA 459 Around Mantua 293 Vicenza 388 Ferrara 459THE LAKES 293 Verona 392 Po Delta 463Lago d’Orta 294 Verona’s Wine Country 397 Ravenna 464Lago Maggiore 295 Dolomites 398 Faenza 468Lago di Como 299 Imola 468Lago d’Iseo 306 Friuli Venezia Rimini 468Lago di Garda 307 SAN MARINO 473 Giulia 401 Orientation & Information 473

Trieste 402Trentino-Alto Sights & Activities 474Around Trieste 411Adige 313 Sleeping & Eating 474Gorizia 413

Getting There & Away 474TRENTINO 316 Palmanova 414 Trento 316 Aquileia 415 Rovereto 321 Grado 416 Tuscany 475 Brenta Dolomites 322 Around Grado 416 FLORENCE 476 Val di Non, Val di Sole Laguna di Marano 416 History 476& Val di Rabbi 326 Lignano 417 Orientation 478Val di Fiemme 327 Pordenone & Around 417 Information 478Pale di San Martino 327 Udine 418 Sights 480Val di Fassa 328 Villa Manin 422 Courses 497Gruppo del Sella 329 Cividale del Friuli 422 Florence for Children 497ALTO ADIGE 329 San Daniele del Friuli 422 Tours 498Bolzano 329 North of Udine 423 Festivals & Events 498Merano 333

Sleeping 498Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 335 Eating 501 Val Gardena 337 Drinking 505

Emilia-Romagna &San Marino 425

Alpe di Siusi & Parco Entertainment 507 BOLOGNA 426 Naturale Sciliar-Catinaccio 338 Shopping 508

Val Badia & Alpe di Fanes 339 History 426 Getting There & Away 509 Orientation 426Val Pusteria 341 Getting Around 510

The Sesto Dolomites 342 Information 426 AROUND FLORENCE 510 Sights 428 Fiesole 510 Activities 432 NORTHERN & WESTERNThe Veneto 343 Courses 432 TUSCANY 512

VENICE 345 Tours 432 Pistoia 512 History 345 Festivals & Events 433 Lucca 514 Orientation 347 Sleeping 433 The Garfagnana 519 Information 347 Eating 435 Apuane Alps 519 Sights 350 Drinking 436 Pisa 521 Activities 367 Entertainment 436 Livorno 528

C O N T E N T S 15

Elba 530 Pescara 627 Puglia, BasilicataCENTRAL TUSCANY 533 Chieti 628 & Calabria 695Chianti 533 Vasto 629

PUGLIA 696 Siena 536 MOLISE 629 San Gimignano 544 Campobasso 630 Promontorio del Gargano 696

Isole Tremiti 704

Le Crete 550 Isernia 631 Foggia 705 SOUTHERN TUSCANY 552 Around Isernia 632 Lucera 705 Parco Regionale della Termoli 632 Trani 706 Maremma 552

Volterra 547 Around Campobasso 630

Albanian Towns 633 Around Trani 707 Etruscan Sites 553 Bari 708 EASTERN TUSCANY 554 Around Bari 712 Arezzo 555 Campania 634 Murgia Plateau & Sansepolcro 558 NAPLES 635 Trulli Country 713 Cortona 558 History 637 Brindisi 718

Orientation 638 Lecce 721

Umbria & Information 638 Penisola Salentina 726 Dangers & Annoyances 639 Otranto 726Le Marche 560 Sights 639 Around Otranto 728

UMBRIA 561 Tours 649 Gallipoli 728Perugia 564 Festivals & Events 649 Taranto 729Torgiano 575 Sleeping 649 BASILICATA 731 Deruta 576 Eating 652 Ionian Coast 732Lago Trasimeno 576 Drinking 653 Matera 733Todi 578 Entertainment 653 Venosa 738Assisi 580 Shopping 654 Potenza 739 Getting There & Away 654

Spello 586 Appennino Lucano 739

Getting Around 656Gubbio 587 Spoleto 590 Tyrrhenian Coast 740

AROUND NAPLES 657 Norcia, the Valnerina Parco Nazionale

Campi Flegrei 657 del Pollino 741& Monti Sibillini 594 Orvieto 595 CALABRIA 742 Caserta 659

Benevento 659LE MARCHE 599 Parco Nazionale del Avellino & Around 660 Pollino 743Ancona 601 BAY OF NAPLES 660 Northern Tyrrhenian Capri 660

Parco del Conero 605 Coast 745

Loreto 606 Ischia 667 Cosenza 745Urbino 606 Procida 669 La Sila 748Pesaro 609 SOUTH OF NAPLES 670 Ionian Coast 749Grotte di Frasassi 611 Ercolano & Herculaneum 670 Catanzaro 750Macerata 611 Mt Vesuvius 672 Aspromonte 750Ascoli Piceno 613

Monti Sibillini 616 Pompeii 673 Reggio di Calabria 751 Sorrento 676 Southern Tyrrhenian West of Sorrento 680

Sarnano 618 Coast 753

AMALFI COAST 681 Abruzzo & Molise 619 Positano 682 Sicily 756 ABRUZZO 620 Around Positano 684

PALERMO 761 Parco Nazionale Amalfi 685 del Gran Sasso e Monti Orientation 763Ravello 687della Laga 620 Information 763From Amalfi to Salerno 688Sulmona 622 Sights 765Salerno 689Parco Nazionale della Festivals & Events 768SOUTH OF SALERNO 691 Majella 624

Sleeping 768Paestum 691Scanno 625 Eating 769Costiera Cilentana 692Parco Nazionale Drinking 770d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Parco Nazionale del

Molise 626 Cilento e Vallo di Diano 693 Entertainment 771

16 C O N T E N T S

Shopping 771 Sleeping 841 Courses 877 Getting There & Away 772 Eating 841 Customs Regulations 878 Getting Around 772 Drinking 842 Dangers & Annoyances 878 AROUND PALERMO 773 Entertainment 842 Discount Cards 879 Mondello 773 Shopping 842 Embassies & Consulates 879 Monreale 773 Getting There & Away 842 Food & Drink 880 Ustica 774 Getting Around 843 Gay & Lesbian

Travellers 880

Parco Naturale Regionale Villasimius & Costa Rei 844 Holidays 880 delle Madonie 774 Insurance 881

TYRRHENIAN COAST 774 AROUND CAGLIARI 843

Nora & Around 844 Cefalù 776 Costa del Sud Internet Access 881 Milazzo 777 & Around 845 Legal Matters 881 AEOLIAN ISLANDS 778 SOUTHWESTERN Maps 882

SARDINIA 845 Lipari 779 Money 882Iglesias 845Vulcano 781 Post 883Around Iglesias 846Salina 783 Shopping 884Iglesiente Coast 846Panarea 784 Solo Travellers 884Carbonia & Around 847Stromboli 785 Telephone 884Sant’Antioco &Filicudi & Alicudi 786 San Pietro 847 Time 885

IONIAN COAST 787 Costa Verde 848 Tourist Information 885 Messina 787 WESTERN SARDINIA 848 Travellers with Taormina 789 Disabilities 886Oristano 848 Catania 793 Visas 887Barumini & Around 850

Volunteering 888Sinis Peninsula 851Outdoors 797 Women Travellers 888North Oristano Coast 852 Mt Etna 806 Work 888Lago Omedeo Circuit 852 SOUTHEASTERN SICILY 808 Bosa 853 Syracuse 808 NORTHERN SARDINIA 854 Noto 814 Transport 890

Alghero 854 Modica 815 GETTING THERE & Around Alghero 857 AWAY 890 Ragusa 816 Sassari 857 Entering the Country 890CENTRAL & SOUTHERN Around Sassari 859SICILY 817 Air 890

Porto Torres 860Enna 817 Land 893 Stintino & Parco Villa Romana del Casale 818 Sea 896Nazionale dell’Asinara 860

Agrigento 818 GETTING AROUND 896 Santa Teresa di Gallura 860 Around Agrigento 822 Air 896Palau & Arcipelago di La Selinunte 822 Maddalena 861 Bicycle 896 WESTERN SICILY 823 Costa Smeralda Boat 897 Marsala 823 & Around 862 Bus 897 Saline di Trapani 824 Olbia 863 Car & Motorcycle 897

Golfo Aranci 864Trapani 825 Hitching 900 EASTERN SARDINIA 864 Erice 828 Local Transport 900

Segesta 829 Nuoro 864 Train 900 Golfo di Castellammare 829 North of Nuoro 865

Supramonte 865Egadi Islands 830 Golfo di Orosei 868 Health 903 Ogliastra 869

Pantelleria 831 BEFORE YOU GO 903 Insurance 903Sardinia 833 RecommendedDirectory 871CAGLIARI 837 Vaccinations 903

Orientation 837 Accommodation 871 Internet Resources 903 Information 838 Business Hours 875 IN TRANSIT 903 Sights 838 Children 875 Deep Vein Festivals & Events 841 Climate Charts 876 Thrombosis (DVT) 903

C O N T E N T S 17

Jet Lag 904 IN ITALY 904 Availability of Health Care 904 Traveller’s Diarrhoea 904 Environmental Hazards 904 Travelling with Children 905 Women’s Health 905 Sexual Health 905

Language 906 Pronunciation 906 Accommodation 907 Conversation & Essentials 907 Directions 908

Eating Out 908 Architecture Glossary 916Health 908

Language Difficulties 909 Numbers 909 Paperwork 909 The Authors 917 Question Words 909 Shopping & Services 909 Behind the Scenes 921Time & Dates 910 Transport 910 Travel with Children 911 Index 925

Glossary 912 GreenDex 944

Saints Glossary 915 Map Legend 948

Regional Map Contents

& Le Marche Umbria p564

p246 & Valle d'Aosta Piedmont p221

p630 & Molise

Abruzzo p622

p260 & The Lakes Lombardy

p478 Tuscany

p834 Sardinia

Trentino­

p346

Alto Adige p318–19

The Veneto

Friuli Venezia Giulia

p404

Puglia p699

Rome p95 & Lazio

p180

& San Marino p473

p600

Campania

Basilicata p732

p744 & Calabria

Sicily p760

p635

Emilia-Romagna p429

Liguria p196

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

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