2.01 Fabric Construction. Turning Yarn into Fabric Weaving: The process of interlacing one or more...
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Transcript of 2.01 Fabric Construction. Turning Yarn into Fabric Weaving: The process of interlacing one or more...
2.012.01
Fabric Construction
Turning Yarn into FabricTurning Yarn into Fabric
WeavingWeaving: The : The process of process of interlacing one or interlacing one or more sets of yarns more sets of yarns at right angles on a at right angles on a loom.loom.
Warp yarns: Yarns that run lengthwise in woven fabric.
Weft yarns: Yarns that run crosswise in woven fabric.
Turning Yarn into Fabric Turning Yarn into Fabric (cont.)(cont.)
Grain: The direction of the lengthwise and crosswise yarns or threads in a woven fabric.
Bias: The diagonal grain of a fabric. The bias provides the greatest “give” or stretch in the fabric.
WeavingWeaving
Plain weave
Plain weave: The simplest weave in which the weft (crosswise) yarn is passed over then under each warp (lengthwise) yarn. Examples: Chiffon, seersucker, taffeta
A basket weave is one variation, with the weft yarn passing over two and under two warp yarns each pass.Example: oxford cloth
WeavingWeaving Twill weave: A weave in which the weft yarn is passed over and under one, two, or three warp yarns beginning one warp yarn back on each new row.
Used for durability, this weave produces a diagonal design on the surface.Examples: denim, gabardine
Twill weave
WeavingWeaving
Satin weave
Satin weave: A weave that produces a smooth, shiny-surfaced fabric resulting from passing the weft yarn over and under numerous warp yarns to create long floats.
Examples: sateen, satin
WeavingWeavingOther weaves•Pile weave—corduroy, velvet•Dobby—dotted swiss, pique•Jacquard—brocade, damask•Leno—fabrics with an open, lacy appearance
Weaving AssignmentWeaving Assignment
Using construction paper cut into strips about Using construction paper cut into strips about 1 inches x 11 inches you should recreate:1 inches x 11 inches you should recreate: plain weave plain weave twill weavetwill weave satin weavesatin weave
On the back of each weave:On the back of each weave: list the advantageslist the advantages list disadvantageslist disadvantages 3 examples of weave3 examples of weave
Knit FabricsKnit Fabrics StretchyStretchy DonDon’’t really ravel, but can t really ravel, but can ““runrun”” Flat Knitting – lies flat on the tableFlat Knitting – lies flat on the table
Circular knitting – Circular knitting – t-shirts with no seams, socks t-shirts with no seams, socks
Weft KnitWeft Knit
Hand knitting is “weft knit” Stretches in both directions Rib knit (for cuffs and collars) Jersey knit Interlock (t-shirt) Double knit
Warp KnitWarp Knit
Made with several yarnsUsually run-resistantTricot (lingerie)Raschel for lacey lookMilanese (obsolete)
Non WovensNon Wovens Often disposable Felt - crafts Lace Leather –
pig and cow Interfacing
Fabric Finishes
Fiber dyeing
natural fibers are dyed before they are spun into yarns. Allows for colorful yarns; (solution dyeing for manufactured)
Yarn Dyeing
yarns are dyed before weaving (used for plaids, checks, stripes)
Piece Dyeing
fabric is woven or knitted and then dyed
Garment Dyeing
fabric is cut and sewn in to the finished product, then dyed
Printing designs onto fabric
Roller printing: one plate for each color of the design (raised and low areas for color or no color)
Screen printing
mesh fabric is stretched over a frame, design is “burned” onto the fabric, colors are pressed through the mesh onto the fabric (large designs are best)
Rotary Screen Printing
combines screen and roller; faster than screen cheaper than rollers
Heat Transfer Printing
printed onto paper first, then heat set onto the fabric
(think t-shirts on the spot)
Digital Printing: computer designed; ink jet printer traces back and forth like a paper printer;
good for custom designing; expensive