197410 Desert Magazine 1974 October

8/14/2019 197410 Desert Magazine 1974 October

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MA GA ZINE OF TH E SOUTHWEST

OCTOBE R, 1974 75cICD 08256


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WILLIAM KNYVETT, Publisher-Editor

GEORGE BRACA, Art DirectorMARY FRANCES STRONG, Field Trip EditorENI D C. H O W A R D , Associate EditorF. A. BARNES, Utah Associate EditorGLENN VARGAS, Lapidary EditorK. L. BOYNTON, NaturalistMARVEL BARRETT, Circulation Manager

DutnLVolume 37,Number10

MAGAZINE

OCTOBER 1974

CONTENTS

THE COVER:Colorful Navajo grand-mother in her MonumentValley home.

F E A T U R E SWE WALKED A MISSION TRAIL 6 George Leetch

DESERT ACROBAT 10 K.L.BoyntonCHOSTOFISLETA 12 DianeThomas

NEVADA'S GORGE COUNTRY 16 Mary Frances StrongDEAD HORSE POINT 20 F.A.Barnes

QUARTZSITE 32 Jack PepperESCALANTE COUNTRY 36 E.C.Howard

D E P A R T M E N T SA PEEK IN THEPUBLISHER'S POKE 4 William Knyvett

DESERT LIFE 15 HansBaerwald1975 BOOK CATA LOG 21 Books forDesert Readers

RAMBLING ON ROCKS 42 GlennandMartha VargasLETTERS TOTHE EDITOR 47 Readers'Comments

CALENDAR OF EVENTS 47 Club Activities

EDIT OR IAL, CIRC ULAT ION A ND AD VER TISING OFFICES : 74-109 Larrea St., Palm Desert, California 92260. Telephone Are a Code 714 346-8144.Listed inStandard Rate and Data. SUBSCRIPTION RATE S: United States, Canada and M exico; 1year, $6.00; 2years, $11.00; 3years, $16.00. Otherforeign subscribers add $1.00 U. S.currency foreach year. See Subscription Order Form inthis issue. Allow five weeks forchange ofaddressandsend both new and old addresses with zipcodes. DESERT Magazine ispublished mo nthly. Second class postage paid atPalm Desert, California andat additional mailing offices under ActofMarch 3,1879. Contents cop yrighted 1974byDESERT Magazine and permission to reproduce anyor allcontents must be secured inwrit in g. M anuscripts and photographs wil l not bereturned unless accompanied by aself-addressed, stamped envelope.Desert/October 7974


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inP u b l i s h e r sP o k eM A R I E T Y IS THE spice of l i fe, and1 / that is what the October issue is ally about! Varying from our usual style,George Leetch brings you the f i rs t in-stallment of a two-part art icle on hik ingalong an old Spanish mission trail in BajaCalifornia. This was no casual stroll andits successful completion required theuse of an airplane, a boat and a camper,in addit ion to some well-toned muscles.

Our naturalist, K. L. Boynton, enlight-ens us about the fast and f lashy r ing-tailca t in his feature ent i t led, "D esert A cro-bat." Mary Frances Strong examinesNevada 's Gorge Coun t r y and t h e i rstrange land formations.

Over in Utah, Fran Barnes extolls atlength on the wonders of Dead HorsePoint and how it was named. This is abeautiful part of the mighty ColoradoRiver scenery that is overlooked (no punintended) by the majority of tourists andvisitors. It's a " m u s t " for desert lovers!

Enid Howard has a colorful account ofEscalante Country, with its alpine mea-dows, towering canyons, luring back-country areas, and a paradise for rock-hounds and camera buffs. In fact, youname it, and Escalante Country has it!

The rockhounds get a bonus thismonth with a feature by Jack Pepper onQuartzsite, Arizona, a l i t t le spot on themap that is making a big impression withthe rock and gem folk.To be really dif ferent, we've insertedou r 1975Book Catalog which, hopefully,wil l make your shopping by mail easier.This catalog can be removed and savedfor future use by those of you who do notsave your magazines.

Finally, Diane Thomas has a tale of amurdered f r iar in New Mexico who, forsome strange reason, wil l not stay buriedan d he keeps rising to the surface. Itmight not be a real ghost story, but itsure is a classic example of "you can'tkeep a good man d o w n . "

NLVVMl XIC/O

New Mexico is a country where edgesmeet formed by the Western rim of theGreat Plains, the windy ridges of theRockies and the strangeness of the Son-oran Desert . It is a vert ical country, whereone looks down from cold f i r-spruce for-ests into hot valleys of yucca, cactus ancdesert f lowers a mile below.Tradi t ions and cul tures are as variableas the landscape. Here is the Dinetah, theHoly Land of the Navajos made safe frommonsters by the Hero Twins and guardecby the four Sacred Mountains. Here, too,are the pueblos of the Keresan, Tanoanand Zunian people who had bui l t a peace-ful democratic society while Europe blecthrough the Dark Ages and who st i l l calthe clouds wi th their r i tual dances. Anchere remain the old Hispanic mountainvi l lages which mark the last frontier of theSpanish Empire.In this collection of landscapes by DavicMuench and i l luminat ing words by TonyH i l l e rman , New Mexico 's many and var-ied contrasts unfold in a unique blend thaiis her mysterious beauty and a grandeurthat is our natural heri tage.

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INSPIRED BY A MEXICAN FISHERMANWHO KNEW OF AN ANCIENT PATH . . .

WE WALKED ATHE SEA OF CORTEZ was over a milebelow us, a vast puddle of shimm eringblue in the first l ight of the m orning su n.1 hrough the window s of the airplane wecould make out the hazy shoreline ofmainland Mexico's Sonoran coast. Clos-er, to our right, the great granite Picachodel Diablo, Baja California's loft iestpeak, thrust up 10,000 feet above sealevel. San Felipe appeared ahead and wecould see the t iny forms of M exican f ish-ermen aboard the fleet of shrimp boatswhich floated at anchor in the bight of thecrescent-shaped bay.

Within what seemed only minutes, theIslas Encantadas hove into view and wemarked where the dusty scratch of roadturned inland at Bahia San Luis Conzagaand twisted into the rugged interior. That

would be the last we would see of roadsfor many miles as our plane took us southalong the east coast of Lower California.

Our destination was a small cluster ofpalm trees and green foliage in the beau-tiful and remote Bahia Agua Verde , some600 miles down the gulf shore of the ar id,sun-baked peninsula. Before our trip wasover, it would involve not only the use ofan airplane, but also car, boat and finally,the real point of our venture, to hike withbackpack along an ancient Spanish mis-sion t ra i l . As I gazed down on the sere,brown hil ls and rocky promontories whichflowed under our plane like an endlessbelt, my thoughts went back to the eventswhich led to our present adventure.

It had really started in June of '73. Iwas on vacation from my job as a ranger

in California's Anza-Borrego DeserState Park and my wife, J ean and I headed our Jeep Wagoneer south into Mexico's rugged, 1,000-mile-long peninsulaThe new paved road, which would stretcfrom California's international bordedown to "lands end" at Cabo San Lucaswas just a bit over 100 miles short of completion. We were anxious to prowl intsome of Baja's hidden corners before thfinal l ink was f inished.

During the past 30 years, I had loggemany miles over the "Forgotten Peninsula" in my various four-wheel-drive vehicles. Most of these miles were drivewhen the trans-peninsular highway waonly a dream and old-tim ers scoffed at thpossibil ity that a paved road would evetraverse the length of Baja California'

' * / , . - ' . "

An aerialsurveyrevealedthe oldtrail andemphasizedits remoteneand toldus thewalkwould notbeaneasy one.


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>

wildnrss. Now that dream was almost arealii s an d I considered the probable con-sequence with mixed emotions.

Foi the June trip, Jean and I set oursight1, on the region around Loreto. Thisis a nost appealing area and provides ajumping-off place into some of Baja'smost '.pectacular country. Bold, craggymounta ins, long, curving beaches anddeep blue bays guarded by bird-coveredislands give this te rritory a special prehis-toric < |uality . It is easy to imagine th at youare I he firs t to gaze on its unspoiledDesen October 1974

* ' J tbeauty.One day we were ex plor ing a bay south

of Loreto known as Ensenada Blanca. Wewere having lunch on the white sand nearthe water's edge when an outboardmotor-driven skiff appeared from acrossthe bay and landed on the beach. A slen-der young Mexican stepped out of theboat and greeted us. This was our intro-duction to Romeo and, in a way, he shap-ed our destiny.

We talked for awhile in Spanish of var-ious things. Romeo, although presently

working on the new highway,normallyearned his l iving by f ishing. He was af-fable and a storehouse of informationabout the country. As we visite d, I ques-tioned him about a possible route alongthe coast to the sou th. He assured me th atthere was indeed a foot path, although hehad never traveled it. The trail was an oldmission route which went through themountains and along the shore to an iso-lated vil lage of palm-thatched houses atBahia Agua Verde. Our f r iend d idn ' tknow the distance, but believed that the

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hike could be accomplished in two orthree days. He warn ed, however, that hehad heard of no fresh water along theroute.

Altho ugh we were sorely tempted to in-vestigate this unknown path, Jean and Iknew our l imitations. A trip of this sortwould take careful plann ing. There wouldbe another t ime and we vowed to returnand walk the trail from start to f inish.

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We left Loreto the following morningand drove up the Baja peninsula in aneasy three days. W hat a difference it wasfrom previous trips before the pavedhighway when the best time I could aver-age was a jolting 10 miles per hour.

It was good to be home once mo re, b utuppermost in our minds was the lure ofthe ancient foot path to Agua Verde. Ourreference books on Lower California of-fered only vague, tanta lizing clues to thisseldom-used route. Almost 300 yearsago, it had served to connect a chain ofmissions from Loreto to La Paz. Thesegment of the trail which stirred our in-terest started at the crumbling ruins ofthe Ligui Mission, 20 miles south of Lore-to. We read that the mission was foundedby the Jesuit Fathers in 1705. Sixteenyears later, after a series of devastatingattacks by the fierce Pericu Indians, themission was abandoned. From Ligu i, thetrail followed the coast 23 miles to thefishing vil lage of Agua Verde.

The sketchy background of historywhich we managed to uncover only whet-ted our interest and made us all the moredetermined to make the walk. Therewere, however, m atters of a more practi-cal nature to be dealt wi t h . How high

were the mountains which had to bcrossed? W ou ld we have to carry a ll of ouwater? How much food to take? Thesand many other questions occurred to uIt was while discussing the dilemmwith our friends, Marvin and AlethPatchen, of Ramona, California tha t a soution to the problem was presented. Botof them are aficionados of Baja Californand were full of enthusiasm when thelearned of our half-formulated planMarvin, who is owner-publisher of thpopular aviation magazine Aero, and also a pilot, proposed that we take a reconnaissance flight to survey the LiguAgua Verde region. This would allow uto assess the route, determine its condtion and possibly arrange for a boat take us to the start of the t ra i l . This sugestion met with our instant approva

So, within just a month of the trip Baja California, we returned by air. Wflew past Loreto and finally located thold mission trail as it twisted and turnethrough the mountains and along thbeaches south of Ensenada Blanca. Wha thrill it was to look down on the rouwhere, within a few weeks, we would bwalking with packs on our backs. In somof the rougher sections, Marvin broug

Desert/October 19


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fieo'o mission ranrely visible

ihe air,itsway

therugged terrain.to a lower elevation so

we could take photographs andamap. It ook only a l i t t le imagina-

to visualize the early tuilders ofthisthestone-ade Indians who

hef i rst footpr in t , th ?n the Spanishth;New Wor ld

Now that we hadactua l N seen the t ra i l ,wasan

"I mystery about the region whichus. The t ra i l wa: wai t ing . Now

voyago toAgua Verde and the start of thet ra i l .

Now, as Istared down at the Baja Pen-insula which was rapidly slipping by us,the excitement of the tr ip came to meonce more. Theroar of the plane's motormade conversation diff icult inthe closeconfines of thecabin, but I knew that theother passengers shared my feelings.This was destined tobeaunique adven-ture that wewould remember the rest ofour lives.

Conclusion Next Month

was up to us toaccept the challenge.ur E .ija backpack wassodn to begin and

fl'W home from Loretp impatient toour f irst step on the 'oad toadven-

T h i ' next few weeks ware busy ones,our spare timej spent getting

read\ forthe t r ip . The Pitchens wouldsupply the airp lane, asi>-place Cessnawith .1cargo storage pod. Dr. ThaddeusJones, aseasoned Baja t -aveler, wouldtake .i short respite from his LagunaBeach medical practice arid goalongasco-pilot. The sixth member ofour party,Paula Davis, would join us in Loreto.Paula hasalovely home tl iere which shecalls < asa Casi, or" H o u s | A lm o s t ." It isa charm ing sanctuary wh ich reflects herwarm andpleasant personality. Paulaagreed tomake the arrangements withsome local f ishermen to ta l e us by boat tothe start of the Agua Veide-L igui t ra i l .She would do th is, she admonished me,only on thecondit ion that she be allowedto ao ompany us. Paula was welcomedwith open arms.

The game plan for our vt nture was con-cludei Iafter much discuss on. ThePatch-ens would fly from Ramorja to our Borre-go desert home and Thald would drivefrom Iaguna Beach on thesame day. Thef ive o| uswould take ofn the fo l lowingmorning for Baja California. After touch-ing down at the Mexical i arport for f l ightpapei'. and tourist entry documents,wewouM again beairborne forfour morehours until weanded atthe airst r ip inLoreto There wewould b;met by Paulain hei pickup camper whi :h would carryus tol:nsenada Blanca. Atthat point, ifour pi. ins worked out, we would rendez-vous with the f ishing launch forthe seaDesert October 1974

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D E S E R Tby K. L. BOYNTON 1974

AMID THE CLIFFS and canyons of therocky arid lands of the great Southwest,from southern Oregon to Baja's t ip, re-sides that finest of desert acrobatstheringtailed cat. Quick and agile, this l it t lefellow is skil led in mountain climbingtechniques and, from the t ip of his sharpnose to the end of his handsome black andwhite striped ta i l , he is well equipped forsuch up and down living.

Ringtailed he is, indeed, its whitebands going completely around it , theblack ones only p artia lly so, but a cat he isnot. In reality he is a backhanded cousinof the raccoons, but different from theseheavier and more stolid citizens in manyways. Slender and lithe, the ringtailweighs in at only about two to threepounds, raccoons up to 49. His head issmall and delicately-shaped, his earslarge, his eyes big, his fur soft. His muchlonger tail matches his head and body inlength. Fast of foot, he could outrun , out-climb and undoubtedly outthink hiscousins, all of this being no mean accom-plishment since raccoons are pretty goodat all this, too. Wh at wi th his alert, sharp-nosed, whiskered face, bushy tail andspeedy ways, he seems to fit his scien tificname Bassariscus astutus clever littlefox m ore closely. And ye t, shy and rath-e r t i m i d , he has none of a fox's brashnessor cunning.

Being strict ly a night operator, theringtail starts his day at nightfall. Yawn-ing and stretching, he emerges from hiscool retreat deep in a rocky crevice or holein a tree, and proceeds with the businessat hand: namely seeing about breakfast.Now a ringtail is not a fussy eater, beingfond of many delicacies such as rats,10

A C Rmice, rabbits, l izards, birds, insects,snakes, fruits, berries, prickly pears,spiders, centipedes. His menu naturallyvaries with what is at hand, dependingboth on the particular region where heresides and upon the season. ZoologistWalter Taylor, checking up on the gro-cery list of ringtails in Texas, found thatdurin g the autumn insects made up morethan one-third. Plant material camenext at about a quarter, mammals next,then birds, mainly small sparrow types.Wintert imes, the ringtails shifted over tothe mammals more, with insects next.Springtimes saw the insects take firstplace in the diet again, with rabbits andother small mam mals second Insectsmade up half the food supply in summer,supplemented with fruits and berries,mamm als being way down the line. Birdswere eaten all season, but even in the pro-tein-important winter, made up not morethan a quarter of the menu.

A hearty eater, the ringtail is no pig,nor does he kill for the sp ort of it. W hat hecaptures is eaten pro mp tly and since he isno believer in maintaining a larder, henever takes more than is needed for ameal. So, much of his activity each nightis centered about getting something toeat. Naturally enough, such foraging re-quires a lot of high class sniffing, peeringand big-eared listening. In the ringtail 'srough terrain , it also requires scram blingup and down and around rocks and bould-ers, sometimes pell mell in pursuit of afleeing mouse hotfooting it home to avoidbeing a menu item.

Biologist Gene Trapp, catching glimp-ses of some of this ringtail-racing aroundthe strictly up and down scenery of ZionNational Pcirk, wished to verify that whathe thought he saw in the growing dark-ness couldn't possibly be. So he caughtsome of these fellows and fitted themwith light-bearing collars consisting of a

micro lamp "gra in of wheat" lamp plfour disc batteries inserted in a plasmedical bracelet that f it te d neatly arouthe ringta il 's neck. Lett ing the animals again, he watched to see wha t wo uld hapen. The lamps could be seen up to onquarte r-mile away with binoculars, andthe dark they appeared to flow and brapidly over the landscape of bouldeand talus slopes and, straight up trough face of a forty-foot vertical sanstone cliff, and straight down again.

This was too much for Tra pp, and soset about f inding how in the world r intails do the im possible. A fter a lot of haanatomical study and with the help several ringtail boarders he supporteand who, frolic ing about the furn iture adoors of his apartment, kindly showhim first hand what they could do, he hthe answers.

It seems that key to the impossiblethe fact that the ringtail 's hind feet crotate 180 degrees, so that when he dscends a steep or vertical surface heafirst, they point straight backwardTheir hairless pads are then flat on tsurface. Foot strength and pad frictare often enough, but the sharp curvnails are also there ready to be extendand applied if necessary. Sure of foothold in this headfirst position, he crun down swiftly or even walk slowly ipleases him, instead of having to badown the way a domestic cat descendstree.

This, of course, is handy, not only rocky terrain going, but for tree climband since much good fruit and manytasty insect are to be had aloft, the r intail can gallop up one tree, search dainties, descend quickly headforemand be up another wit h no loss of fora gtime . The hindfoot rotation also permitkind of grasping motion, as one femdemon strated in Trapp 's home when s

Desert/October 7


11/48

ATcord, holding on to theNoi is this rotating-hind -foot-head first

it the only adaptation ringtails have forstemming," the mounta ineer

oi climbing or descending a crevice

one wall and their backs against thelor example, they can work their

Changing their minds on a narrowplr matter to reverse direction in eith-I wo ways: they may sw ing their for-

wal l , and then m aking a semi-e i l imb ing m otion drop the ir front

arters up, and with the ir tailsin -circle un til th eir hind feet drop

Foi speedy going, it seems that theypr in-

Headed for a point high overhead,r instance, they get to running, hit ai< al wall to the side, and push ing hard

nst it not only reboun d upw ards, bu tentum . This technique could be

in I he case of the need for a rap id es-

i I Us eful, too, it seem s, to coy ladiesFamily raising takes place around the

< htober1974

The ringtail cat. Photo by George W. Bradt.Three or four young sters is par for a litter .Zoologist Will iam Richardson's observ-ing a ring tail blessed event in his labora-tory learned much about their advent andgrowth. It seems that while papa hasbeen tolerated in and about the home nestduring the period-in-wait ing, some threeor four days before the actual a rriva l he isinvited out of the premises by his spouse,now suddenly grown exceedingly snap-pish.

Squeaks announce the eventual arrivalof the youn g, who, it must be said, don' tlook like much to hum an eyes. Thinly cov-ered with whit ish fuzz, their bodies arepudgy, with only the pigmented skin oftheir stubby tails foretell ing its stripes.Their eyes are closed, their small ears

shapeless and fleshy, their chubby feetand toes weak Even their faces look half-done, their muzzles so blunt, and theirtoothless mo uths, while big and broad, donot quite accommodate their tongueswhich curl up at the side edges Altog eth-er, not enticing. But they apparently suitthe ringtail mother, for sit t ing hunchedup with her front legs propping up herbody, she helps direct them to the lunchcounter, at which, fortunately, fourplaces are set. Fresh out as they are, theyoungsters are quick to find the foodsource and thanks to this and other goodand constant maternal care, are off to agood start. Papa's banishment ends in aday or two, and he is apparently invited

Continued on Page 4011


12/48

The churchat the Pueblo of Isleta.

Photo by Ed Cooper.

by DIANE THOMA S

GHOST STORIES of the Ol d West usuallyturn out to be the result of an imaginationfired by too many pulls on the whisky jug ,but one story has been attested to by anarchbishop, a cardinal and a governor.

About the t ime the Spanish soldierswere gett ing a toehold in the Southwest,somewhere along in 1735, a Franciscanfriar made his way to the Pueblo countrythrough hostile Indians to the east of NewMexico. By the t ime he reached LagunaPueblo, west of Santa Fe, he was foot-sore, feverish and on the verge of starva-t ion. The friendly Pueblo Indians gavehim s helter, food and the services of theirmedicine man.

Brother Juan Padilla was halfway aprisoner, but.his understanding of theIndian beliefs enabled him to gain the re-spect of the Pueblos. He had had trainingin basic medicine in his priory and in thefollowing years, he administered to thephysical as well as spiritual needs of hisrescuers. He was a gentle friar, teaching12

his religion by example, blending it withIndian lore, always careful not to offendthe Pueblos by trying to force them to hisway of thinking. His simple humane con-tact with the Pueblos made a deep im-pression on them, and over the years, hewas admitted to even the most sacredrites in the underground kivas. He hadtruly become their brother.

The Pueblos added their knowledge tohis, and Friar Juan learned all he couldabout their language, their sy mbols, theirrituals, their medical skil ls. The Indiansno longer thought of him as their whitebrother, but considered him one of theirown tribe. And the gentle friar was con-tent to remain at Laguna Pueblo.

Friar Juan had lived among the Pue-blos for 20 years when a runner broughtnews that a Spanish army was formin g inMe xico, set on invading the Southwest ina last-ditch effort to f ind hidden gold.Whether there was ever a fabulous goldhorde in New Mexico has not been deter-

mined, but perhaps the Spaniards believ-ed the Indians were guarding such acache.

While the tribal chieftain had neverhad any doub ts as to F riar J uan's loyaltya few m embers of the sprawling Pueblotribe felt he had learned too much of theIndian ways and secrets, and they wan tedto be sure none of their p rivate knowledgewo uld be passed on to membe rs of a racehostile to all Indians.

Desert/October 1974


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14/48


15/48

l iged and made a written report, a copyof winch is in the archives in New Mexico.The document was witnessed by severalfriars of the Pueblo. In it , he confirmedthe litelike appearance of the dead padresaying they placed a new robe on the formsine the old one had disintegrated, andthat I he body was s upple en ough to dresseasily and cross the arms after war ds. Thebody had been put into a cottonwood boxwhen reburied in 1776, with the old bluehabil untouched. The Chaplain also mademenhon of the decomposed bodies ofpeople buried after the 1776 reburial,with bones remaining although the padrewas intact.

When Friar Juan turned up again in189:>, the Isletans sent for a priest, theGovernor and the Archbishop of SantaFe . I he Archb ishop had a dist inguish edhouse guest a C ardinal visit in g fromRon ic, and he came along to take a look atth e p.idre who wouldn't stay buried. Thetwo i hurchmen testif ied they saw a bodyappearing freshly dead.

This t ime the buria l ceremony was a bitmore complete. The body was placed in aheavy oak co ffin , along wit h a copy of thedocum ent. The lid was nailed down f i rm-ly, ind prayers for the dead were said.Th e < off in was then reburied in front ofthe . iltar and the entire f loor covered w ithtwo inch planks.

Apparently this satisf ied the restlesspadic for, according to the present Gov-erniu of Isleta Pueblo, Alvino Lucero, thefriar has remained sleeping this century.But no one knows whether he will showup In 1976 or not

Is it fact or legend? The story of theresi Irss friar is well-know n to New M ex i-can. Some claim the recurring f loodsbrought the body up. But every 20 yearsor SII-' Some claim the con dition of the so ilunder the church is such that a form ofmummification took place. But leavinghim llexible? And where is the originaldocume nt, copy of which was found in thecoffin in 1895? Perhaps in 1976 the ques-t ion', will be answered.

A very young roundtail ground squirrel surveys the world his first d ay out.'/1 /October 1974 15


16/48

N e v a d a ' s G o r g e C o u n t r yby MA RY FRANCES STRONGPhotos by Jerry StrongIN EASTERN Lincoln County, where pinyon pine and juniper forests mingle, thboundary between Nevada and Utah inot discernible. Colorful pink, red, corabeige, brown and white "canyonland formations," usually associated with Utahhave spilled across the state line and combined with the broad basins and narrowribbed mountains which are Nevada'forte.

Lying almost parallel with the boundary 10 miles east, is a great rent in thearth's crust. Beginning in the WhitRock Mountains, it extends south fonearly 150 miles to a junction with thVir gin River. Along a 50-mile segment oKershaw-Ryan State Park is nestled bpink, beige, orange and brown canyowalls and the campground is pleasantlsheltered by trees. Photo by M. Humphreys. Courtesy Nevada State Parks76 Desert/O ctober 797


17/48

Opposite page:It doesn 't requireimagination in

on ler to recognize' lee Pee Rocks"

in theC over Mountains

castofCaliente.This is the

smaller of twounw.ual formations.

Right:"The Choir Group"

formation ati .ithedral Gorgeis beginning

to "meltaway."At certain

limes of the day,it i Irarly resembles

singers ina choir loft.

this vast erosional channel, between Pan-aca and Elgin Siding, four outstandinggeological formations are exposed. Theyoffei scenic beauty and exploration parexcellence. Toss in some old miningcamps, ghost towns and historical settle-ments, and you have Nevada's GorgeousGorge Country.

d ihedral Gorge and Kershaw-RyanStale Parks are the two attraction s receiv-ing 97 percent of the visitors' attention.Only a few people ventu re into RainbowCanyon. The unusual "Tee Pee Rocks"appear to be known only to some of theloc;il folks and a few hu nters . This is ma g-nify ent country and it will challenge thereci i-ationist who enjoys exploring on hisow n

Cue of Nevada's most well-knownparks, Cathedral Gorge is a long, narrowvalley where run-off from infrequent rainand snow storms cuts deeply into finesilts and clays to form a fantastic pink la-byr inth. The Queens Chair, Choir Group,Moo n Caves, Cave Canyon and Ca thedralCa< es are a few of the many outsta ndin gformations to be seen.A walk into Cathedral Caves disclosesvery narrow passages with perpendicularDes'-i I Oc tober 7974

walls 50 or more feet high. In places,hipsbrush the wall son b oth sides; a nd, as youbend backw ards in order to see a scrap ofsky overhead, the walls seem to be lean-ing in on you. "Wa lkin g ins ide" is a thr i l -ling experience, but not advisable foranyone who suffers from claustrophobia.

Cathedral G orge Campground is beau-t i f u l . Laid out on a base of pink gravelamong a grove of Russian olive tre es, it iskept immaculately clean. Each unit givesprivacy with ample room for car andtrailer. A spacious rest room facility of-fers hot showers (free). There is a heaterfor cold weather use, since the camp-ground is open the year around. Campingfee is $2.00 per night.

We arrived at Cathedral Gorge in lateOctober and elected to use the attractivecampground for our base of operations.While we explored many regions in alld irect ions, i t was the "Gorge Country"that commanded our attention f irst.

A stone's throw southeast of CathedralGorge is the lit t le community ofPanaca the firs t perm anent settleme ntin southeastern Nevada. Problems be-tween the government and the Mormonsat Salt Lake City in 1858 had prompted

Brigham Young to order missionarygroups to search for possible retreats,should war developA group, known as the "White Moun-tain Boys," spent many months in Mea-dow Valley developing an intricate irrig a-t ion system which util ized a warm arte-sian spring at its northern end. Cropswere planted and other improvementsmade before they were called home whenthe threat of war diminished.

It was n't until M ay, 1864, that the f irs tsettlers, the Francis Lee Family, arrivedin Meadow V alley. Find ing the earlier ir-rigation system was still in good condi-t ion, they quickly planted crops, then setabout building tem porary quarters of sodand pickets Full scale colonization hadbegun and, within two months, 18families were living in the Panaca L.D.S.Ward .

From the beginning, there was troublewit h the Indians , but it was not caused byreasons generally credited to such prob-lems. At f irst, the Paiutes were friendlyand were treated kindly by the M orm ons.As a result, the Indians began to take ad-vantage of the settlers s tealing horses,catt le and pilfering. When they became

V


18/48

The large hotel-station at Caliente rem ains, though it no longer hou ses ov ernightguests. The northern end [left] is now used as the City Hall.increasingly hostile a small detachmentof 20 men, under Captain J. Pearce (Mor-mon B.ttalion), was sent to protect thesettlers. An adobe and log fort was erect-ed and the families moved inside duringthe fall of 1864.

When the milit ia left, so did more thanhalf of the settlers. Only six families re-mained at the fort. A townsite was sur-veyed in the spring of 1866 and the famil-ies moved from the fort to town lots. Newpeople began arrivin g and the lit t le com-munity began to grow.

Though Wil l iam Hamblin, of St .(.eorge, had located the Panacre Lode(i ich silver depos its) in the Pioche Rangein 1863, Indian hostilities and BrighamYoung's disapproval of mining had pre-vented its development. Hostil it ies wereunder control in 1868 when Charles H.Hoffman and F L A . Pioche purchasedthe Mormon cla ims and formed the M ea-dow Valley M ini ng C ompany. The subse-quent mining boom brightened Panaca'sfuture. Population rose to over 500 andbusinesses included a thriv ing lumbermi l l , grist m ill and farm products alleagerly sought by the growing miningcamp 10 miles north.

In 1866, an Act of Congress had added"a strip of land measuring one degree inwidth between the 37th and 42nd paral-l e l " to the eastern edge of Nevada. Thenew boundary had not been surveyed.Mormon sett lers, believing Panaca wasin Utah Territory, paid their taxes toWashington County, Utah. Lincoln Coun-ty, Nevada assessed the Meadow Valleyresidents but, due to the lack of man-

power, could not collect the am ounts due.Reportedly, the settlers ran the Assessoroff at gun point.

A long and bitter f ight ensued withcases reachirg the Supreme Court. An1870 survey disclosed Panaca to be in Lin -coln County, Nevada. This news nearlydealt a death blow to the community.Many of the "saints" found l iv ing out-side of Utah un tenable and more than halfof the population had left by 1871

Panaca survived and this year c elebrat-ed its 110th birthd ay. Today, as you drivethrough the lit t le town, broad, tree-linedstreets show the thoughtful planning of ahundred years ago. A modern cement-block building houses the post office andfire station. Across the street, the 106-year-o ld "Panaca Mercant i le" bui ld ing(now a marked historical site) still servesthe community as a general store.

A short distance north, Panaca HotSprings continues to furnish irrigationwater and provide a f ine swimming holein summer. We ate our lunch at theSprings, sharing the shade of a cotton-wood tree with a beautiful mare. Fromthis point we could follow the path ofMeadow Valley as it rambled south.Horses idly grazed in still green pasturesrimmed with yellow blossoms of rabbitbrush. Idyllic in setting , it was easy to seewhy Panaca had survive d in a remote andhostile region.

I was reminded of a statement in thebook, "A Ce ntu ry in Meadow Va l ley ," bythe Panaca Centennial Book Committee.They described Panaca as "a town whichfor a century has kept its pioneer nam es,

its pioneer quaintness, its pioneer good-ness; a town which has been kind to chi ldren and min dful of old folks; a town whichhas been the birthplace of many and thelifelong residence of a few; a town whichchildren have always loved and adultsnever quite forgotten." We need morecomm unit ies like Panaca where smaltown friendliness and caring for one an-other is still a way of life.

Heading south from Panaca, Highway93 wanders along the western side ofMeadow Valley. In about f ive miles, theValley narrows as the rugged bulwark ofthe Chief and Cedar Ranges press close toone another. Colorful canyons beckon onboth sides of the road and glimps es of oldmin ing ventures are seen. Unexpectedly,the road curves abruptly east around thebase of a mountain and enters the oldrailroad town of Caliente.

Known as Culverwill, before the railroad was completed in 1905, Caliente islocated at the junction of Meadow ValleyWash and Clover Creek Canyon. In theearly days, it was an important crossroadwhere trails into Utah, as well as northernand southern Nevada, met. Constructionof the Salt Lake and Pioche Lines turnedCaliente into a bustling railroad towncomplete with 12'yard tracks, machineshops, eight-stall turntable and a f inehotel-station. The latter is readily visiblefrom the highway today.Imm ediate ly south* of Caliente is K er-shaw-Ryan State Park. The access roadpasses through high, massive erodedclif fs interspersed with rhyolite f lowsTheir pin k, beige, orange and brown coloring complement the simmering greenleaves of trees in the campground.

Each gorge has its own distinctive per-sonality. Kershaw-Ryan is the " qu ie ton e" lying secluded in a canyon amongtowering clif fs. Facil it ies include springwater, stoves, modern comfort stationhot showers and group s helters. You w ilfind trails to wander and side canyons toexplore. Generally, Kershaw-Ryan isopen the year around. However, in thefall of 1973, the Park Ranger had beentransferred and the Park closed for thewinter.

A half-mile beyond the State Park road(west on Highway 93), a sign proclaims"B ea uti ful Rainbow Canyon 16 milessou t h . " An old blacktop road leads downMeadow Valley Wash, eventually changing to a graded road as it snakes betweenthe Clover and Delamar Mountains

Desert/October 7974


19/48

Should you desire, it is possible to followthis mute for 80 miles and join Highway91 just west of Glendale. Rainbow Can-yon, while colorful and scenic, is also a"naiura l textbook" of geological forma-t ion:. It is my hope that this region willbecome a Geological State Park offeringself-r.uided trails and markers of explana-tion

R lad, railroad and stream parallel oneanoilier as they wander down MeadowValley Wa sh. At several points, the creekhas ponded and large groves of cotton-wooils flourish. Trees also mark the sitesof ac I ve and abandone d ranche s. Readilyseen from the car are rainbow-coloredmountains, a "petr i f ied sand dune" h ighon a mountainside and several very largecave, in brick-red sandstone clifs. Thereare no campgrounds, but plenty of placesto pull off and stay awhile.

When planning to visit a region, welook ihrough our file of very old maps.The\ often show points of interest nolonger included on modern ones. Seeing"Te c Pee Rocks" ind icated on an " o l d i e "of Nevada's Gorge Country, we guessedthev would probably be an interestingro d lorma tion and elected to try our luckf ind ing them.

It had turned cold the previous eveningand morning brought a mackerel sky. Itwasn't going to be a good day for photo-graiihs, but we decided to take ourchain es. J ust north of C aliente, we turn-ed east at the Hot Springs road sign, fo l-lowed the paved road a short distance,then kept right on the dirt road intoClo* er Canyon.

Alier about two miles of travel, theroai I deter iorate d and became m uddy andsamly in places. We engaged our 4WDanc lound it prevented any difficulties aswe i i ossed and recrossed Clove r Creek.Jusi nver four miles from the highway, asign pointing south indicated "Pine Val-ley I iam E lla Mo untain & East Pass."Dec iding this must be the route we werelooking for, we opened the gates, crossedthe i.iilroad tracks and followed a back-couniry road heading into the CloverMountains. A light rain had begun to falland I he punge nt frag rance of sage, pin-yor pine and juniper f i l led the air. Wecurved around some low hil ls, then t u rn-ed .uutheast. Four-wheel-drive becamea necessity as we rounded another hilland entered a loose-bottomed wash.A h i . i d , fantastic to behold, a vil lage ofgianl Indian tepees stood on the side of aDesen October 7974

N e v a d a ' s

Lincoln County

mountain!We enjoyed our lunch while watching

the ever-changing light on the unusualformations. Two exposures were notedand their resemblance to "tepees," es-pecially from a distance, was incredible.The rain stopped, but it was still verycloudy. Jerry set up his cameras and wasready when a momentary break in theclouds came, sometime later.

Examining Tee Pee Rocks, we specul-ated they were originally sizable sanddunes, covered by igneous flows, thenuplifted and exposed by erosion. We are

quite aware that not " a l l " of Nevada canbe a State Park, but hopefully, steps willbe taken to include this outstanding for-mation in its Park System.

Nevada's Gorgeous Gorge Country hasmany hidden treasures, such as Tee PeeRocks, that are little known and seldomseen by visitors. The exhilaration feltwhen exploring and seeing Nature'shandiwork is far more intoxicating thanwine. Spending t ime in this land of mag-nif icent colors and formations will sendyou home with a soul full of beauty and adesire to return again.

19


20/48

THE STATE OF UTAH offers its visitorsand residents a wide variety of statep.irks, recreation areas and historicalmonuments. These range in size fromless than an acre for certain historicalbuildings, to almost 22,000 acres. Manyprovide access to lakes of various sizes,and include launch ramps and other mar-ine facil it ie s. Mos t offer developed camp-giounds and picnic sites, some of theseexcellent by any standard. A few are sti l lundeveloped, but offer primit ive scenicbeauty or historical interest to those whovisi t them.20

Entry fees of $1.00 are charged at de-veloped state parks, recreation areas andsome historical sites during the travelseason. Additional fees are sometimescharged for camp ing or the use of m arineor other special facil it ies. Annua l permitsare available for $10 which provide entryto all Utah park system areas, plus reduc-ed fees for the use of certain facilities.Those 62 years of age or older may pur-chase these annual permits for half price.

One of the oldest and most popularparks in the state system is Dead HorsePoint State Park in southeastern Utah.

This well-develope d scenic attraction hasno counterpart anywhere, and is so out-standing that an enthusiastic out-of-statevisitor was recently heard to rem ark:

" W e sure didnt know Utah had scenerylike THIS! Why, this beats even theGrand Canyon! "

Wha t prompted th is remark? A nd whysuch a strange name as "Dead HorsePo in t? "

W e l l , picture a gigantic, slightly-t i ltedplateau edged with sheer clif fs hundredsof feet high. Visualize one t ip of this ele-vated plateau narrowing to just a few

Desert/October 7974


21/48

COMPLETE1 9 7 5 BOOK CATALOGLOST M INES TRAVEL GHOST TOW NS HISTORY

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GOLDEN CHIA, by Harrison Doyle. This book il-lustrates the great difference between the highdesert chia, and the Mexican variety presentlysold in the health food stores. It identifies the en-ergy-factor, a little-known trace mineral foundonly in the high desert seeds. Also includes asection on vitamins, minerals, proteins, en-zymes, etc., needed for good nu trition . Referredto as "th e only reference book in America on thisancient Indian energy food. 100 pages, illustrat-ed. Paperback, $4.75; Cloth Cover, $7.75.DUTCH OVEN COOKBOOK by Don Holm.Wildlife editor of the Portland Oregonian, theauthor has spent his life exploring and writingabout the outdoors, so his recipes for preparing(ood in a Dutch Oven come from experience. Ifyou haven't had food cooked in a Dutch Oven,you haven't lived and if you have, you will findthese recipes new and exciting culinary adven-tures as well as his tyle of writing. Heavy pa-perback, 106 pages, $3.95.ANASAZI: Ancient People of the Rock, photo-graphs by David Muench, text by Donald G.Pike. This outstanding, moving publicationgives the reader the unique opportunity to seeand understand the Anasazi civilization thatexisted some 2,000 years ago. Blending withDavid Muench's suberb photography, historianDonald Pike provides a fascinating text. Hard-cover, profusely illustrated with color and blackand white photos, 192 pages, $16.95 until Dec.31, 1974, then $18.95.

ARIZONA COOK BOOK by Al and Mildred Fis-cher. This fascinating and unusual five-cook-books-in-one features recipes for Indian cooking,Mexican dishes, Western specialties, Arizonaproducts and outdoor cooking. Includes sour-dough and Indian fried bread recipes, as well asother mouth-watering favorites. Unique collec-lions of hard-to-find Western cooking. Paper-back, 142 pages, $3.00.COINSHOOTING, How and Where To Do It byH. Glenn Carson. This book presents tips and'tricks' on coinshooting and hunting other itemslost by people over the years. Metal detectorowners will find their hobby made more profit-able, says this veteran "coinshooter." Paper-back, illustrated, 58 pages, $2.50.LOST MINES AND HIDDEN TREASURES byLeland Lovelace. Authoritative and exact ac-counts give locations and fascinating data abouta lost lake of gold in California, buried Aztec in-gots in Arizona, kegs of coins, and all sorts ofexciting booty for treasure seekers. Hardcover,$4.95.MINES OF THE EASTERN SIERRA by MaryDeDecker. Facts about the mines on the eastern:,lope of the Sierra Nevada and Inyo Mountains.Paper, $1.95.DICTIONARY OF PREHISTORIC INDIAN AR-TIFACTS OF THE AMERICAN SOUTHWESTby Franklin Barnett. A highly informative bookthat both illustrates and describes Indian arti-facts of the Southwest, it is a valuable guide forIhe person interested in archaeology and anthro-pology. Includes 250 major types of artifacts.Each item has a photo and definition. Paper-hack, 130 pages, beautifully illustrated, $7.95.

SOUTHWESTERN INDIAN TRIBES by TomBahti. An excellent description, history and cur-rent status of the Indians of the Southwest, in-cluding dates of their ceremonies and celebra-tions. Profusely illustrated with 4-color photo-graphs of the Indian Country and the arts andcrafts of the rrany tribes. Large format, heavypaperback, 72 pages, $2.00.SOUTHWEST INDIAN COUNTRY by theEditors of Suns;et Books. A concise and compre-hensive guide covering the 48 reservations andPueblo village:; in Arizona, Utah, New Mexicoand Colorado. Includes what to see, how to buy,conduct, history and ceremonials. Large format,colored illustrations, heavy paperback, 80pages, $1.95.

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THE DESERT IS YOURS by Erie Stanley Gardner. This is the late author 's f i f th book wr i t tenon the desert but the first that is devoted to thewestern desert of the United States. With par-ties of hunters and companions, he proves to bethe true adventurer, combing the vast reaches oftrackless land, and shows how the good outweighs the bad in the perils of the desert. Hardcover, well illustrated, 256 pages, $7.50.DEATH VALLEY GHOST TOWNS by StanleyPaher. Death Valley, today a National Monument, has in its environs the ghostly remains ofmany mines and mining towns. The author hasalso written of ghost towns in Nevada and Arizona and knows how to blend a brief outline oeach of Death Valley's ghost towns with historicphotos. For sheer drama, fact or fiction, it pro-duces an enticing package for ghost town buffsPaperback, illus., 9x12 format, 48 pages, $1.95GEM MINERALS OF IDAHO by John BeckwithContains information on physical and opticacharacteristics of minerals; the history, lore, anfashioning of many gems. Also eleven rewardingfield trips to every sort of collecting area. Slickpaperback, maps and photos, 123 pages, $2.95THE STERLING LEGEND by Estee ConatserThe story of the Lost Dutchman Mi ne is in a clasof its own. Here the author presents the JacobWalzer story in a realistic and plausible mannerAn introduction by Karl von Mueller, and a mapinsert leaves the reader to draw his own conclusions between fact and fiction. Paperback, ilustrated, 98 pages, $4.00.THE INDIANS AND I by Peter Odens. Imtimatconversations with Indians by a compassionatauthor who writes in the style of Ernie Pyle. Paperback, illustrated, 89 pages, $2.00.

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Describes life at the New Dale, Vir-in California. Photos and m ap. Pa-k, $1.95.

BIRDS hDESRRT

BIRDS OF THE SOUTHWESTERN DESERTSby Qusse Thomas Smith. Thirty-one of the mostcommnnly sighted birds of the Southwest are de-scribei! and illustrated in 4-color artist drawing s.Heavy paperback, 68 pages, $3.95.NEVADA LOST MINES AND HIDDEN TREAS-SURI S, compiled by Dave Basso. The Second-Edit! is updated with photographs and a newlook. 1ortions of U.S. Geological Survey topo-grap in; maps are provided to give the reader anidea "I the general locale in which the specificstory || centered. Paperback, 71 pages, $2.50.NEW MEXICO PLACE NAMES edited by T. M.Pear'n. Lists and gives a concise history of theplace11;, towns, former sites, mountains, mesas,rivers, etc., in New Mexico, including those set-tled I>v the early Spaniards. Good for treasurehuntsrt, bottle collectors and history buffs. Pa-perb'ii.k, 187 pages with more than 5000 names,$2.49OLD MINES AND GHOST CAMPS OF CALI-FORNIA, compiled by A. Ekman, I. H. Parker,W . H Storms, H. W . Penniman and M. E. Ditt-mar. A lot of informative reading takes youcoun'y by county through the vast mining areasof th i Mother Lode and adjoining rich proper-ties. I'.iperback, photos, 144 pages, $3.50.FACI IING FOR AMATEURS by Glenn andMarth.i Vargas. All aspect of the craft are cover-ed in this book from selecting, buying, orientingbeforr cutting, methods of obtaining the largestand most perfect stone from the rough material,to thi' ways of using the many different facetingmachines on the market. Glenn Vargas is Lapi-dary Instructor, College of the Desert, PalmDesei I, Calif., and a columnist for Desert. Hard -covei , many illustrations, tables, formulas, 330page., $15.00.SELDOM SEEN SLIM by Tom Murray. Profilesand vignettes of the colorful "single blanketjack;i-. ; prospec tors" who lived and died as theylooki'il for gold and silver in Death Valley. Slickpapeihack, exclusive photos of the old-timers,65 p.Kjes, $3.00.GHOST TOWNS AND MINING CAMPS OFCAL ORNIA by Remi Nadeau. The only good,hardcover book on the California ghost towns.We iccommend it highly. $7.50.

OUTDOOR SURVIVAL SKILLS by Larry DeanOlsen. This book had to be lived before it couldbe written. The author's mastery of primitiveskills has made him confident that survival livingneed not be an ordeal once a person has learnedto adjust. Chapters deal with building shelters,making fires, finding water, use of plants forfood and medication. Buckram cover, well-illus-trated, 188 pages, revised editio n boasts of 96 4-color photos added. $2.95.PONDEROSA COUNTRY by Stanley W. Paher.A scenic and historic guide to Reno and vicinity,the author tells in words and pictures the manyscenic byways and colorful country to be foundwithin an hour or two of downtown "CasinoRow." Various tours are outlined and a finalchapter is devoted to a pictorial history of Reno.Paperback, 48 pages, 9x12 format, $1.95.ROCK DRAWINGS OF THE COSO RANGE byCampbell Grant, James Baird and J. KennethPringle. A Maturango Museum publication, thisbooks tells of sites of rock art in the Coso Rangewhich, at 4000 feet, merges with the flatlands ofthe northern Mojave Desert. Paperback, illus-trated, detailed drawings, maps, 144 pages,$3.95.THE GREAT AMERICAN WEST by James D.Horan. With over 650 illustrations, many in fullcolor, this is the full western story from the daysof the conquistadores to the 20th Century. Manyrare photos never published before. Large 9x12format, hardcover, 288 pages, originally pub-lished at $10.00, now only $4.95.

B A C K

ON DESERT TRAILS by Randall Henderson,founder and publisher of Desert Magazine for 23years. One of the first good writers to reveal thebeauty of the mysterious desert areas. Hender-son's experiences, combined with his commentson the desert of yesterday and today, make this aMUST for those who really want to understandthe desert. 375 pages, illustrated. Hardcover,$7.50.LOST MINES OF THE GREAT SOUTHWESTby John D. Mitchell. The first of Mitchell's lostmine books is now available after having beenout of print or years. Reproduced from theoriginal copy and containing 54 articles based onaccounts from people Mitchell interviewed. Hespent his entire adult life investigating reportsand legends of lost mines and treasures of theSouthwest. Hardcover, illustrated, 175 pages,$7.50.

BACK ROADS OF CALIFORNIA by Earl Thol-lander and the Editors of Sunset Books. Earlystagecoach routes, missions, remote canyons,old prospector cabins, mines, cemeteries, etc.,are visited as the author travels and sketches theCalifornia Backroads. Through maps and notes,the traveler is invited to get off the freeways andsee the rural and country lanes throughout thestate. Hardcover, large format, unusually beau-tiful illustrations, 207 pages, $10.95.DESERT VACATIONS ARE FUN by RobertNeedham. A complete, factual and interestinghandbook for the desert camper. Valuable infor-mation on weather conditions, desert vehicles,campsites, food and water requirements. Infor-mation on desert wildlife, mines, ghost towns,and desert hobbies. Paperback, illustrated, 10maps, 134 pages, $3.95.LOAFING ALONG DEATH VALLEY TRAILS byWilliam caruthers. Author Caruthers was anewspaper man and a ghost writer for earlymovie stars, politicians and industrialists. He"slowed down" long enough to move to DeathValley and there wrote his on-the-spot story thatwill take you through the quest for gold on thedeserts of California and Nevada. Hardcover,old photos, 187 pages, $4.25.SOUTHWEST INDIAN CRAFT ARTS by ClaraLee Tanner. One of the best books on the sub-ject, covering all phases of the culture of the In-dians of the Southwest. Authentic in every way.Color and black and white illustrations, linedrawings. Hardcover, 205 pages, $15.00.

TALES THE WESTERN TOMBSTONES TELLby Lambert Florin. The famous and infamouscome back to life in this great photo history in-cluding missionary, mule driver, bad guy andblacksmith what tales their tombstones tel l .Large format, 192 pages, originally published at$12.95, now only $3.95.LOST MINES & BURIED TREASURES ALONGTHE OLD FRONTIER by John D. Mitchell. Thesecond of Mitchell's books on lost mines whichwas out-of-print for many years. Many of theseappeared in DESERT Magazine years ago andthese issues are no longer available. New read-ers will want to read these. Contains the originalmap first published with the book and one pin-pointing the areas of lost mines. Mitchell's per-sonal research and investigation has gone intothe book. Hardcover, 240 pages $7.50.MOCKEL'S DESERT FLOWER NOTEBOOK byHenry and Beverly Mockel. The well-knownpainter of desert wildflowers has combined hisfour-color sketches and black and whitephotographs to describe in detail so the laymancan easily identify wildflowers, both large andsmall. Microscopic detail makes this an out-standing book for identification. Special com-pressed fiber cover which will not st iin. 54 ful l-color illustrations with 72 life-size drawings and39 photographs, 316 pages, $5.95.HOPI SILVER, The History and Hallmarks ofHopi Silversmithing by Margaret W right. Yearsof research have made this book a historicallydescriptive piece on the Hopi silversmiths. Illus-trated with many photographs of silverwork, andmore than a dozen pages devoted to the varioushallmarks beginning in 1890 and continuedthrough 1971, naming the silver smith , the clan,the village, dates worked and w hether or not thesilverwork is still being made. Paperback, 100pages, $4.95.FLOWERS OF THE CANYON COUNTRY byStanley L. Welsh, text; and Bill Ratcliffe, photo-graphs. Brigham Young University Press. Twoprofessionals have united their talents to presentan informative, scholarly and artistic promotionof the beauty found in flowers and plants of vastregions of the Southw est. Paperback, 51 pages,$2.95.

CALIFORNIA RESIDENTS PLEASE ADD 6% STATE SALES TAX


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BEACHES OF BAJA by Walt Wheelock. Beaches on the Pacific side of Lower California are de-scribed by the veteran Baja explorer. UnlikeCalifornia beaches, they are still relatively freeof crowds. Paperback, iIIus., 72 pages, $1.95.RHYOLITE by Harold Weight. Tales of ShortyHarris, Ernest Cross, Bob Montgomery, M. M.Beaty and the men and women who establishedthe famous mining town near Death Valley. Pa-perback, historic photos, 40 pages, $1.00.BAJA CALIFORNIA by Choral Pepper. Packedin this comparatively small book is a world offacts about the land, the insects, vegetation, theseashore, the missionaries, vanished missions,lost treasures and strange stories, tall and true,of Baja California. Fascinating reading. Paper-back, 126 pages, $1.95.

THE BAJA BOOK, A Complete Map-Guide toToday's Baja California by Tom Miller and El-mar Baxter. Waiting until the new transpenin-sular highway opened, the authors have pooledIheir knowledge to give every minute detail ongas stations, campgrounds, beaches, trailerparks, road conditions, boating, surfing, flying,l ishing, beachcombing, in addition to a BajaRoadlog which has been broken into convenienttwo-mile segments. A tremendous package forevery kind of recreationist. Paperback, 178pages, illus., maps, $7.95.TH E CAHUILLA INDIANS by Lucile Hooper.Compared to the large tribes of the West, theOahuillas, although being comparatively small,play an important part in the history of SouthernCalifornia. Customs, living habits, the culturesof this tribe are better appreciated by the au-Ihor's insight. First published in 1920, and againin print. Paperback, large format, bibliography,65 pages, $2.50.TREES OF THE WEST [Identified at a Glance]by Matilda Rogers, Photographs by Wynn Ham-mer. Miss Rogers has written graphic descrip-tions of all of the trees generally found in theWestern area of the United States. Mr. Hammerhas photographed them when in their prime.The result is a handbook that everyone can un-derstand and enjoy. Paperback, illustrated, 126pages, $1.95.OLD ARIZONA TREASURES by Jesse Rascoe.Containing many anecdotes not previously cov-ered in Arizona histories, this book covershaciendas, stage stops, stage routes, miningDamps, abandoned forts, missions and other his-torical landmarks. Paperback, 210 pages, $3.00.CAMP ING AND CL IMBING IN BAJA by JohnRobinson. Contains excellent maps and photos.A guidebook to the Sierra San Pedro M artir andthe Sierra Juarez of Upper Baja Calif. Much ofthis land is unexplored and unmapped sti l l . Carroutes to famous ranches and camping spots inpalm-studded canyons with trout streams temptweekend tourists who aren't up to hikin g. Paper-back, 96 pages, $2.95.

OLD FORTS OF THE NORTHWEST by H. M.Hart. Over 200 photos and maps. Exciting pictor-ial history of the military posts that opened theWest. Hardcover, beautifully illustrated, origin-ally published at $12.50. New Edition $3.95.CORONADO'S CHILDREN by J. Frank Doby.Originally published in 1930, this book about lostmines and buried treasures of the West is aclassic and is as vital today as when first written.Dobie was not only an adventurer, but a scholarand a powerful w riter. A com bination of legendsand factual background. Hardcover, 376 pages,$3.95.BURIED TREASURE & LOST MINES, by FrankFish. One of the original treasure hunters pro-vides data on 93 lost bonanzas, many of which hepersonally searched for. He died under myster-ious circumstances in 1968 after leading an ad-venturous life. Illustrated with photos and maps.Paperback, 6 pages, $2.00.MY CANYONLANDS by Kent F rost . A v iv idaccount of the early exploration of Utah's Can-yonlands by the author who spent his entire lifeexploring America's new national park and whopresently runs a guide service through thescenic country. Hardcover, artist illustrations,160 pages, $6 95.COMMON EDIBLE & USEFUL PLANTS OFTHE WEST by Muriel Sweet. A description withartist drawings of edible (and those not to touch)plants along with how Indians and pioneers usedthem. Paperback, 64 pages, $1.50.POISONOUS DWELLERS OF TH E W est by NattDodge. Anyone walking through the back countryshould have ard study this book, especially fam il-ies with children. Illustrates and describes whichdwellers are poisonous and which are not. Slickpaperback, 40 pages, 75 cents.

FrostyFROSTY, A Raccoon to Remember by HarriettE. Weaver. The only uniformed woman on Cali-fornia's State Park Ranger crews for 20 years,Harriet! Weaver shares her hilarious andheart-warming experiences of being a "mother"to an orphaned baby raccoon. A delightful bookfor all ages. Illustrated with line-drawings byJennifer O. Dewey, hard cover, 156 pages, $5.95DEAD MEN DO TELL TALES by Lake ErieSchaefer. A sequel to BURIED TREASURE &LOST MINES by Frank Fish, the author knewFish for many years and claims he was murd ered .Her book adds other information on alleged lostbonanzas, plus reasons why she thinks Fish didnot die a natural death as stated by the authori-ties. Paperback, illus., 80 pages, $3.00.ROCKS AND MINERALS, A golden NatureGuide. More than an aid to identif ying rocks andminerals, this book will also help the reader un-derstand the importance of rocks and minerals inour daily lives Tells where to look for rocks andminerals. Compact paperback, profusely illus.,$1.25.

GEM TRAILS IN CALIFORNIA by A. L. AbboThis compact li ttle book can easily be 'carriwhile hiking or riding and combines detailed mdrawings with pictures. In addition to gem anmineral names with their specific locations, theare other leads to nearby ghost towns, camgrounds and recreation areas. Paperback, illu$2.95.HOPI KACHINA DOLLS [With a Key to TheIdentification], by Harold S. Colton. Kachidolls are neither toys nor idols, but aids to teacing religion and tradition. This is a definitiwork on the subject, describing the m eaning, tmaking and the principal features of 266 varietiof Kachina dolls. Line drawings of each varieplus color and b/w photos make it a compleguide to learn more of the richness of AmericIndian culture. Paperback, 150 pages, $3.45

AMERICAN INDIAN FOOD AND LORE by Caolyn Neithammer. The original Indian planused for foods, medicinal purposes, shelteclothing, etc., are described in detail in this fascinating book. Common and scientific namesplus descriptions of each plant and unusuarecipes. Large format, profusely illus., 19pages, $4.95.GEM TRAILS OF ARIZONA by Bessie W. Simpson. This field guide is prepared for the hobbieand almost every location is accessible by car opickup accompanied by maps to show sandroads, steep rocky hills, etc., as cautions. Lawregarding collecting on Federal and Indian lanoutlined. Paperback, 88 pages, illus., $3.00.SPEAKING OF INDIANS by Bernice JohnstonAn authority on the Indians of the Southwesthe author has presented a concise well-writtebook on the customs, history, c rafts, ceremonieand what the American Indian has contributed the white man's civilization. A MUST for bostudents and travelers touring the Indian Country. Heavy paperback, illus., $2.50.THE W EEKEN D GOLD MINER by A. H. RyaAn electronic physicist "bitten by the golbug , " the author has written a concise aninformative book for amateur prospectors tellinwhere and how gold is found and how it is sepaated and tested, all based on his own practicexperience. Paperback, 40 pages, $1.50.THE WEEKEND TREASURE HUNTER by AH. Ryan. A companion book to his WeekenGold Miner, this volume is also concise anpacked with information on what to look for anwhat to do with your treasure after you havfound it. Subjects range from Beach Combing Sunken Treasures, Paperback, 76 pages, $1.9EXPLORING DEATH VALLEY by Ruth KirGood photos and maps w ith tim e estimates froplace to place and geology, natural history ahuman interest information included. Papeback, $2.25.

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BA.IA [California, Mexico] by Cliff Cross. Up-dat"il to include the new transpeninsula high-wa\, the author has outlined in detail all of theservices, precautions, outstanding sights andth ing ! to do in Baja. Maps and photos galore,with large format. 170 pages, $4.95.ME XICO Guide by Cliff Cross. All new, revisededition with excellent information of trailerpark:;, hotels, camping space; tips on bordercro:;:;mg, shopping, fishing, h unting, etc., as wellas the history, culture , and geography. 210 maps,675 photos, 195 pages, $4.95.HEI LDORADO by William Breakenridge. One ofthe most famous law enforcement officers of theOld West describes his life and gives first-handace Mints of the famous outlaws and lawmen heknew First publishe d in 1928 and long out-of-print, now available. H ardcover, illus ., 1883 mapof


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MINES OF JULIAN by Helen Ellsberg. Thetowns of Julian and Banner located above theAnza-Borrego State Park in San Diego County,are little known for their mining history. It didhappen, thou gh, some 20 years a fter the MotherLode rush. The author's remarkable ability toglean this information from old-timers and dig-ging into newspapers and old records makes thisa skillfully blended story. Paperback, historicphotographs, reference material, 68 pages,$1.95.U '< Ga Prespu

LET'S GO PROSPECTING by Edward Arthur.Facts and how-to-do-it on prospecting are pre-sented by the author who has spent 30 yearssearching for gems and minerals in California.For those who think there are no more valuablesleft in California, they will find a new field in thisinformative book. Included marketing data,maps, potential buyers for discoveries. Large8x10 format, illustrated, heavy paperback, 84pages, $3.95.WESTERN GEM HUNTERS ATLAS by Cy John-son and Son. A helpful book of detailed mapsshowing gem and mineral locations, from Cali-fornia to the Dakotas and British Columbia toTexas. Markings note private claims, gem claims(fee charged) and rock and gem locations. Alsosuggested reading for more detail on areas in-cluded and other rich areas not included in thispublication . Paperback, maps galore, collector'slibrary, 79 pages, $3.00.UTAH by David Muench, text by Hartt Wixom.The impressions captured here by DavidMuench's camera and Hartt Wixom's pen bringto life a most beautiful under-one-cover profile ofthe fascinating stateof Uta h. Large11x14 form at,hardcover, 188 pages, $25.00.TREASURE HUNTER'S GUIDE TO THE LAWby Clair Martin Christensen. Answers all of thequestions relative to the legal aspect of findingtreasure trove. Subjects include Antiquities Act,Mining Claims, Gold Regulations, Trespass andSalvage, Claim Recordings, Tax Aspect andmany others. Concise and factual. Paperback, 46pages, $2.75.

JOURNEY OF THE FLAME by Walter Nordhoff.The most exciting tale of early Baja and AltaCalifornia ever written. Recounts lost treasurelegends and its accurate historical account pre-sented in fictional style. Hardcover, $4.95.DESERT PLANTS AND PEOPLE by Sam Hicks.Tulls how primitive desert dwellers find susten-ance, shelter, beverages and healing medicinesin nature. Hardcover, $5.95.LOST DESERT BONANZAS by Eugene ConrottoBrief resumes of lost mine articles printed in backissues of DESERT Magazine, by a former editor.Hardcover, 278 pages, $7.50.

PHOTO ALBUM OF YESTERDAY'S SOUTH-WEST compiled by Charles Shelton. Early daysphoto collection ciating from 1860s to 1910 showsprospectors, miners, cowboys, desperados andordinary people. 195 photos, hardcover, fine giftitem, $12.50.HOW TO COLLECT ANTIQUE BOTTLES byJohn C. Tibbits. A fascinating insight of earlyAmerica as seen through the eyes of the medi-cine companies and their advertising almanacs.Excellent book lor avid bottle collectors andthose just starting. Also includes chapters oncollecting, locations and care of bottles. Heavy,slick paperback, well illus., 118 pages, $4.00.DESERT EDITOR by J. Wilson McKenney.This is the story of Randall Henderson, founderof DESERT M agazine, who fulfilled a dream andwho greatly enriched the lives of the people wholove the West. Hardcover, illustrated with 188pages, $7.95.THE GOLD HEX by Ken Marquiss. A singleman's endeavors, Ken has compiled 20 of histreaure hunts in book form. His failure to hit the"jackpot" does not mean he is treasureless.From gold panning to hardrock, from dredgingto electronic metal detecting, he enjoyed a life-time of "doing his thing." Slick paperback, il-lustrated with photos and maps, 146 pages,$3.50.SAN BERNARDINO MOUNTAIN TRAILS byJohn W. Robinson. Easy one-day and more rug-ged hiking trips into the historic mountains. The100 hiking trails are described in detail and illus-trated so you will not get lost. Heavy paperback,257 pages, $4.95.

THE ROCKS BEGIN TO SPEAK by LaVan Mar-tineau. The author tells how his interest in rockwriting led to years of study and how he haslearned that many especially the complex pe-troglyphsare historical accounts of actualevents. Hardcover, well illustrated, glossarybibliography, 210 pages, $8.95.GHOST TOWNS OF THE.COLORADO ROCK-IES by Robert L. Brown. Written by the authorof Jeep Trails to Colorado Ghost Towns, thisbook deals with ghost towns accessible by pas-senger car. Gives directions and maps for f ind-ing towns along with historical backgrounds.Hardcover, 401 pages, $7.95.100 HIK ING TRAILS by Don and Roberta Lowe.There are two separate books: one on trails inNorthern California and the other in SouthernCalifornia. Both have 100 trips (both easy andrugged) described in detail. Both books are 225pages, heavy paperback, $5.95 each. When or-dering, state NORTHERN or SOUTHERN Hik-ing Trails.1200 BOTTLES PRICED by John C. Tibbitts.Updated edition of one of the best of the bottlebooks. $4.95.CALIFORNIA DESERT WILDFLOWERS byPhilip Mu nz. Illustrated with colored photos anddescriptive text by one of the desert's finestbotanists. Paperback, $2.95.

TE MA LPA KH by Lowell John Bean and K ather-ine Siva Saubel. Temalpakh means "from theearth," in Cahuilla, and covers the many uses ofplants used for food, medicine, rituals and thoseused in the manufacturing of baskets, sandals,hunting tools; and plants used for dwellings.Makes for a better understanding of environ-mental and cultural relationships. Well illustrat-ed, 225 pages, hardcover, $10.00; paperback,$6.50.

NAVAJO SILVER by Arthur Woodward. Asummary of the history of silversmithing by theNavajo tribe, Woodward presents a comprehen-sive view of the four major influences on Navajodesign, showing how the silversmiths adaptedthe art forms of European settlers and Indians inthe eastern United States, as well as those of theSpanish and Mexican colonists of the Southwest.Paperback, well illustrated, 100 pages, $4.95.OUR HISTORIC DESERT, The Story of theAnza-Borrego State Park. Text by DianaLindsay, Edited by Richard Pomade. The largeststate park in the United States, this bookpresents a concise and cogent history of thethings which have made this desert unique . Theauthor details the geologic beginning and tracesthe history from Juan Bautista de Anza andearly-day settlers, through to the existencetoday of the huge park. Hardcover, 144 pages,beautifully illustrated, $9.50.DEATH VALLEY JEEP TRAILS by Roger Mit-chell. A guide to the large network of back coun-try roads leading to old mining camps, stampmillsa nd other little-known areas of Death ValleyNational Monu men t. Paperback, Illus., 36 pages,$1.00.A FIELD GUILD TO ROCKS AND MINERA LS byFrederick H. Pough. Authoritative guide to iden-tification of rocks and minerals. Experts recom-mend this for all amateurs as one of the best. 3rdedition with many new color illustrations. Hard-cover, $6.95.THE NORTH AMERICAN DESERTS by Ed-mund C. Jaeger. A long-time authority on allphases of desert areas and life, Dr. Jaeger'sbook on the North American Deserts should becarried where ever you travel. It not only de-scribes each of the individual desert areas, buthas illustrated sections on desert insects, rep-tiles, birds, mammals and plants. 315 pages,illustrated photographs, line drawings andmaps. Hardcover, $6.95

GHOST TOWN BOTTLE PRICE GUIDE by Wesand Ruby Bressie. A new and revised edition oftheir popular bottle book, first published in1964. New section on Oriental relics, plus up-to-date values of bottles. Slick, paperback, illus-trated, 124 pages, $2.95.PLEASE AD D 25c PER ORDER FOR HAN DL ING CH AR GE


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EXPI ORING JOSHUA TREE by Roger Mitchell.Excellent guide to Joshua Tree National Monu-ment in Southern Califoria. Paperback, $1.00.FLOMA OF BAJA NORTE by Tina Kasbeer. Theauth>i is a botanist who spends all her free timein B ija and writes in detail of the endemic plantsof thi> country . D escribes the use of certain plantsfor rnndicinal purposes by the Indians and resi-dents Paperback, illu s., 36 pages, $1.00.GOL I) RUSH COUNTRY by the Editors of SunsetBooKs A revised and up-dated practical guide toCaliloi nia's M other Lode country. Divided intogeocir iphical areas for easy weekend trips, the8x11 heavy paperback new edition is profusely il-lustrated with photos and maps. Special featuresand .mecdotes of historical and present dayactivities. Four-color cover, 96 pages. $2.95.

100 DESERT WILDFLOWERS by Natt Dodge.Each flower is illustrated with a 4-color photo-graph and described in detail, where found,blooming period, etc. Habitats from sea level to4,000 feet. Slick paperback, 64 pages, $2.00.100 ROADSIDE WILDFLOWERS by Natt DodgeA companion book and with the same format as100 Desert Wildflowers, this book lists 100flowers found from 4,000 to 7,000-foot levels.Also has 4-color photographs. Slick paperback,64 pages, $2.00.A FIELD GUIDE TO WESTERN REPTILESAND AMPHIBIANS by Robert C. Stebbins. APeterson Field guide. 207 species, 569 illustra-tions, 185 in full color, 192 maps. The best bookof this type. Hardcover, $5.95.HANK AND HORACE by Richard Lillard andMary Hood. How and why the tall-tale of HoraceGreeley's ride with Hank Monk over the Sierrain 1859 became nationally signific ant in thefolklore of the West is carefully documentedwith scholarly precision, historic perspective andearth-wise humor by the authors. Paperback, il-lustrated, $5.95.

DEM RT GEM TRAILS by Mary Frances StrongDEM RT Magazine's Field Trip E ditor has revis-ed and brought up to date her popular fieldguide tor rockhounds. She has deleted areaswhi li are now closed to the public and addednew ,ireas not covered before. The maps havealsc heen updated. This is the "bible" for bothamateur and veteran rockhounds and back coun-try "xplorers. Heavy paperback, 80 pages andstill the same price, $2.00.DEAIH VALLEY SCOTTY TOLD ME by Elea-nor Jordan Houston. A fascinating and unusualrecount of famous Death Valley Scotty's adven-tures as told to the author while she and herrancici husband were Scotty's nearest neighborsin 1'M8. Some of these escapades have neverbeen lold before. Illustrated, 116 pages, $1.75.MINKS OF DEATH VALLEY by L. Burr Belden.Aboiil fabulous bonanzas, prospectors and lostmini':,. Paperback, $1.95.THE OREGON DESERT by E. R. Jackman andR. A Long. Filled w ith both facts and anecdotes,this r. the only book on the little but fascinatingdesei is of Oregon. Anyone who reads this bookwill want to visit the areasor wish they could.Hardcover, illustrated, 407 pages, $8.95.PAl M CANYONS OF BAJA CALIFORN IA byRandall Henderson. The beau tiful palm canyonsand isolated areas of Baja California are describ-ed By the late Randall Henderson, founder ofDEM RT Magazine. Although these are his per-sonal adventures many years ago, little haschanged and his vivid writin g is alive today as itwas when he first saw the oases. Paperback,illul . 72 pages, $1.95.GOI I) RUSH ALBUM, Editor in Chief JosephHeniy Jackson. 352authentic first-hand pictureswith text. Thecompletestory of the most excitingtreasure-hunt in history when some 200,000 per-son i sought gold in Ca lifornia. O riginally pub-lished at $10.00. New, complete edition only$3.9850 YEARS IN DEATH VALLEY by Harry P.Gov . First hand account of the dramaticmining years by a man who spent his life in themy: irrious valley. Describes the famous charac-ters nl Death Valley. Paperback, illustrated, 145pages, $2.95.

CALIFORNIA-NEVADA GHOST TOW N ATLASandSOUTHWESTERN GHOST TOWN ATLASby Robert Neil Johnson. These atlases are excel-lent do-it-yourself guides to lead you back toscenes and places of the early West. Some pho-tos and many detailed maps with legends andbright, detailed descriptions of what you willsee; also mileage and highway designations.Heavy paperback, each contains 48 pages, each$2.00.GREENWATER by Harold Weight. Called the"monumental swindle of the century" this is thestory of the 1906 stampede to the Black Moun-tains and how $30,000,000 disappeared. Paper-back, historic photos, 34 pages. $1.00.

GHOSTS OF THE GOLD RUSH by George Koe-nig. To really enjoy a trip through California'sMother Lode Country one should have a know-ledge of the historical background and a guide toplaces to see. This travel and historical guidegives this information in a concise and interest-ing manner. Paperback, illustrated, 72 pages,$1.95.

TURQUOIS by Joseph E. Pogue. (Memoirs of theNational Academy of Sciences]. First printed in1915, Turquois has in its third printing (1973)been updated in many ways. Among them arelisted currently-operated Turquois mines, morecolor plates. The book is full of incredible resultsof research and an in-depth study of this fascina-ting mineral of superficial o rigin. H ardcover, 175pages, beautifully illustrated, $15.00.SOUTHERN IDAHO GHOSTTOWNS by WayneSparling. 84 ghost towns are described, alongwith the history and highlights of each.

197410 Desert Magazine 1974 October

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Transcript of 197410 Desert Magazine 1974 October