1

Brown's Gas.(~.__B_O_O_KT_W_O -")

Build a high qualityBrown's Gas electrolyzer that

will exceed the performance ofANY known commercial

machine to date

---------J, George Wiseman L....--- _'I, ./

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Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION 1

DESIGNING A BG ELECTROLYZER 2AI"'S ifi' pp IcatlOn >pecl IcatlOns 2

Series-cell 2 Transformer-less design 3 Simple power supply 3 Power supply options 4 Electrolyte 4 Sealing between cells 5 Plate masking 5 Plate degreasing 5 Plate texturing 5 Plate material 5 Plate thickness 5 Plate spacing 5 Number ofcells 6 Pure water 6 Fail-safe features 6 Bubbler tank 7 Liquid-vapor separator 7

SIZING A BG ELECTROLYZER 7 Gas volume needed 7 Available power 8 Electrolyzer diameter 9 Plate spacing 9 Kind ofelectrolyte 9 Electrolyte concentration 9 Power supply option 10

BUILDING A BG ELECTROLYZER 10 Safety tips 10 Electrolyzer list ofmaterials 10 Cut rings from tube 11 Size rings 11 Mark out plates 11 Cut plates 12 Straighten plates 12 Degrease Plates 12 Holes in plates 13 End plates 13 Liquid level tube 16 End gaskets 16 End plate assembling... 16 Plastic cap on SS bolt 16 Initial cut long shell 16 Assemble rings & plates into tube 17 Final long shell cut 17 Put end caps on 17

Through bolts 17 Drill and tap shell 17 Mixing electrolyte 18 Fill electrolyzer with electrolyte 18

DESIGNING ELECTROLYZER POWER SUPPLY 19 Power supply considerations ................................. 19 J0ltage measurements 19 Number ofcells in series 19 Frequency across the electrolyzer 19 Voltage threshold 20 Pressure switch 20 DC power circuit 20

1. Capacitor amperage limiting 202. Voltage doubler 213. J0ltage doubler with capacitive limiting 22

Main power circuit 22

LIQUID LEVEL & TEMPERATURE CONTROLS 231. The 12 VDC power supply 232. Second circuit group; liquid level and

temperature processing 243. The signaled mosfets, relay and buzzer 26

Assembly hints 26 Circuit adjustments (tuning) 28 'Balance' the op-amps , 28 Set the circuit temperature 28 Circuit tests 28 Circuit component list 30

BUILDING A CONTROL BOX 30 List ofcomponents and materials 30 Pressure relief valve 31 Pressure switch 31 Automatic electronic liquid level and

temperature controls 31 Install gauges 32 On/offswitch 32 Indicator lights 32 Full-wave bridge rectifier 32 Main relay 32 Terminal strips 33 Duplex receptacle 33 Hook main power inlet cord to enclosure box 33 Enclosure box 33 Install capacitors 33 JVzre control box 34 JVzres from enclosure to electrolyzer 34 Gas pressure hose from liquid-vapor separator 34

DESIGNING AND BUILDING A BUBBLER 34

continued...

Brown's Gas, Book 2 / www.eagle-research.com

Table of Contents (con't)OPERATING A BG ELECTROLYZER 36 Confirm ready to start 36 Initial start 36 Check for leaks 36 Set pressure switch 36 Set & test the liquid level and temperature circuits 36 Lighting the torch 36 Extinguish torch 37 Shut offelectrolyzer 37 How to avoid backfire 37 What to do when you get a backfire 38 Re-filling electrolyzer with water 38 Adding fresh water to the bubbler 38 Draining the electrolyzer 39 Preventing foaming 39 Over-heating 39

BG ELECTROLYZER EFFICIENCYMEASUREMENTS AND CALCULATIONS 40

Electrolyzer theoretical gas production 40 Actual gas production 40 Figuring BG proportion ofgas: Gas Efficiency 40 Wattage Efficiency per liter ofBG 41

OUR EXPERIMENTAL USE OF BROWN'S GAS 42 Modifier tank 42 Welding glass 43 Welding iron 43 Cutting cast iron 43 Welding cast iron 43 Cutting iron , 43 Welding copper 44 Welding aluminum 44 Brazing 44 Cost to operate compared to oxy.lacet 44

COMMENTS ON USING BG WITH IC ENGINES 44 Jimmy Reed's experiments 44 Calculations to run an engine on BG 46 Hyper-gas 47 Conclusion 47

OVER-UNITY HEAT 48

BROWN'S GAS CAPABILITIES 48 Actual BG characteristics 48 Misconceptions ofBrown's Gas 49 Heating applications 49 Cooling applications 50 Clean water 50 Energy storage system 51

www.eagle-research.com/Brown.s Gas, Book 2

Atmospheric "over-unity" engine 51 Powerpotential ofBG 52 Compare BN 1000performance 52 Further notes on testing the BN 1000E 52 The 5 various sensors on the BN1000E are: 54 Operation notes 54 Testing data 55 Testing the BN 200 56 Testing Conclusion 57 Conclusion 57

BIBLIOGRAPHY 57

RESOURCES 58

ADDITIONAL SIMPLE CIRCIUT 59

Since writing Brown's Gas. Book 2. George Wisemandiscovered an additional circuit which he considers tobe an even simpler method than those offered in thebook.

The circuit has been added at the back of the book andappears on pg. 59.

INTRODUCTION

I wish to thank Ross Stanfield, JimFluri, Kiel Schweizer and Jimmy Reedfor their great efforts helping developthe information contained within thisbook. It would have taken muchlonger to write this book without theirhelp (years perhaps).

I am working with people around theworld to duplicate the Brown's Gastechnology. I co-ordinate researchfrom all sources, giving credit wheredue, plus input my own innovations.We have made tremendous progress.

I have written this book to further addto the published general knowledge ofBrown's Gas. I have found that thereis a lot of misinformation floatingaround about Brown's Gas. I wish totry to present accurate information thatwill lead to safe and effective use ofthis technology. Until Yull Brownwrites a comprehensive documentary, Ifeel experimenters are at risk. I wishto reduce the risk, in my life and in thelife of any person experimenting withhydrogen and oxygen.

Note that in this book, I often refer toBrown's Gas as 'BG'. This Book isthe second of a series that will allowanyone to experiment with Brown'sGas. I feel it is important to duplicateYull Brown's work because I feel theworld needs this technology.Duplication of his work will verify thetechnology while making public theknowledge that will make thetechnology safe to use.

Note that I do not refer to anelectrolyzer as a 'generator'. It istechnically correct to use the term'generator' but I find it confusing with'electrical generator' (machine thatproduces electricity). Thus I alwaysuse only 'e1ectrolyzer' to describe thesegas producing machines.

I describe (some of) my mistakes aswell as my successes and the thoughtsthat led to both. As an inventor, Iknow that failure is just as important assuccess. Both are learning experiencesand vital to the eventual understanding

of the process or device. You boughtthis book so you wouldn't have torepeat my mistakes.I've had many people build variousprojects from my plans in the past;many thinking that they could 'do-it-better' and changing parameters whenthey build the project. Most of thetime, they are making changes that I'vealready determined to be less efficient.I can't write down ALL my mistakesand research, so these people don'tknow that I've already been there anddone that (got the T-shirt).

If you are considering making versionsof a project that deviate from myspecifications, it is wise to check withme first; it may be dangerous to makethat particular modification AND I maybe able to save you much time andmoney. Besides, this research is on-going, we are always coming up withimprovements.

A large portion of the history anddevelopment of Brown's Gas researchis detailed in my Brown's Gas. Book 1.Brown's Gas. Book 1 also gives mostof the mathematics needed tounderstand Brown's Gas and the theorybehind Brown's Gas, as far as modemPhysics and Chemistry allow. In thelatter part of this Book, I point outsome misconceptions about Brown'sGas that I've been able to prove withactual experimentation

This Book details experimentation inprogress. I include details on whatwe've actually done and what we aretrying to do. At this time I've donevery little experimentation with the gascapabilities, I've been concentrating oncreating the most practical andefficient design of electrolyzer Icould.

Keep in mind as you read this book,that I base these plans on the KISSprinciple (Keep It Seriously Simple).The most practical and efficient designin the simplest package. There are anynumber of modifications that can bemade to this basic design. Be sure tocheck with me before implementingimprovements of your own.

The result of this experimentationdetailed in this Book is a design for ahome-build able Brown's Gas welder(electrolyzer). The Brown's Gas booksare based on experimentation that I'veactually done myself and the data canbe assumed to be reasonably accurate.I do advise you not to fall into the trapmost readers fall into, assuming justbecause it is WRITTEN that it is true.Keep an open mind, so you can spotmistakes or anomalies in my work andin the 'text-books.' I appreciate beinginformed of errors or anomalies.

As I write this book I am amazed bytwo things: How much I've learnedsince Brown's Gas. Book 1; and howlittle I know. Still, I find myself takingsome things as 'common knowledge'in my mind, that I've found mostpeople who want to learn about thistechnology DON'T know. It isdefinitely time to write this book tobring the general knowledge of thistechnology up-to-date.

WARNING BYYULL BROWNAttempts at applications made byunqualified people who do not knowall of properties of the gas could bevery dangerous and create extremelyhazardous conditions leading to thepossibility of an explosion. Brown'sGas ElectrolyzerlWelder (as sold byYull Brown) is completely safe whenused as a source of heat for welding.Experimentation is not to be attemptedwith the gas separate from theelectrolyzer.

Additional note by Author: YullBrown is very concerned thatexperimentation with hydrogen andoxygen will cause explosions that willreflect badly on himself and/or the'Brown's Gas'. He doesn't want a'Hindenberg Syndrome' attached tohim or his technology. In addition, hewould like to receive a monetarybenefit for his technology, in which hehas invested a large portion of his life.It has come to this author's attentionthat Yull Brown is writing a book onhydrogen. This author would like tosupport that undertaking, becauseknowledge written down will outlivethe author while making future use of

Brown's Gas, Book 2 I www.eagle-research.com 1

the technology safer. This authoracknowledges Yull Brown as the bestexpert on Brown's Gas.

DESIGNING A BG ELECTROLVZER

To date, commercially availableBrown's Gas electrolyzers have beenhard to acquire; very expensive; ofdubious quality; have limited gascapacity and the technical operationhas not been well supported.

information to properly interface twofuel systems on the same engine. Thatinformation is available in theCarburetor Enhancer Manual,Electronic Carburetor Enhancer Notes,HyCO 2A Manual, the HyCO 2AManual Update and the EFIE Manual.

Further details on mobile electrolyzerdesigns and applications are availablein Hyzor Technology.

series-cell

in Brown's Gas. Book 1) in series, sothat the electricity must flow througheach cell in tum, the combined'voltage drops' (about 2 volts pei cell)added up to a total voltage drop ofabout the number of cells times two.

Thus 120 cells in-series requires about240 volts to push electricity throughthem all. This concept eliminated theneed for the transformer and all it'swaste.

Brown's Gas. Book 2 presents a simpleelectrolyzer design that can be builtquickly, with inexpensive, readilyavailable materials, using standardworkshop tools and abilities. Further,it can be built to huge sizes.

Sketches shown (Fig. 2 & 3) are forour simplest electrolyzer. This is anexperimental prototype that will putout commercial quantities of BG.Eagle-Research has been operating thisdesign for several months.

But 120 individual cells (depicted inBrown's Gas. Book 1) in series is abulky mess. Further experimentationdiscovered how to build the 'series-cell.' This allows many cells to be putinto a compact, simple arrangement(Fig. 1).

Fig. 1

Components not shownrelative to size, onlyto existence andplacement

Liquid-vaporseparator

/

In the series-cell design, (electricityflowing negative to positive) each plate

Bubblertank

/'

to torch

Pressure GaugePressure switch !r;::==v=a=l=ve~2~::::;-;::::::::;l Pee",," eeli~ !

)"

......... .. .. .. . . .. . . .. . . .

We discovered that if you put severalsingle-cell electrolysis cells (depicted

Valve 1Water fill

Sensor shroud ---!+--!t:>-,

liquid level sensors--~~

Water level tube~

Diffuser plate~ ~.~ ..~;.>~. "~;'>~'.~

Application specifications

The particular BGelectrolyzer designoutlined in this Book isdesigned to be appliedusing ordinary oxy.fact.welding tips and/or cuttingtorch.

In addition, Eagle-Research is happy to offertechnical advise to peoplebuilding electrolyzers ofany design. We welcomesuggestions forimprovements of ourdesign.

This Do-It-Yourself version is not onlymore efficient than the commercialunits, but will teach you all you needto know about yourelectrolyzer: its design;assembly and operatingparameters. So, you'll beable to fix it yourself ifanything goes wrong.

This design may also beapplied as a combustionenhancement device forstationary power plants,reducing the petrochemicalfuel needed to operate.This Book does notinclude the specialized

Valve 3 ~::::==:=:::;-;:=Liquid level tube---~c:r

Valve 4~*::*-:=:;

BG electrolyzer

2 www.eagle-research.com/Brown.s Gas, Book 2

This efficient, simple power supplydesign allows our watt-hours per literof gas produced to be less than

Brown's Gas, Book 2/ www.eagle-research.com 3

actually produces both hydrogen andoxygen (on opposite sides of the sameplate) because each of the inner platesshares its sides with two cells.

Starting on the negative side of theseries-cell: in the first cell, the firstplate (fastened to the e1ectrolyzer endplate) just makes hydrogen. Thesecond plate gives off oxygen on theside facing the negative, and hydrogenon the side facing the positive end ofthe electrolyzer.

Thus oxygen and hydrogen aregenerated from every plate in theseries-cell. Oxygen produced on oneside and hydrogen on the other. The'electrons'travel through each plate-electrolyte-plate-e1ectrolyte-etc. fromone end to the other.

The advantages of a series-cellelectrolyzer design are immense andwell worth doing the little extra to getit right. Series-cell makes anextremely compact, efficient, low cost,quiet operating, light weight, andsimple Brown's Gas electrolyzer.

At two square inch per amp (actualsubmerged plate surface area), our1,200 watt series-cell electrolyzer isabout 6" in diameter. This design willmake a 500 Liters/hour BG machine.

View of end SS plate

Liquid level sight tube holethrough SS end-plate only.

Fig. 3

Make it 8" in diameter for a 1,000Liter electrolyzer.

Transformer-less design

The first and most important differencein the BG series-cell electrolyzerdesigns (and most commerciallyavailable electrolyzers) is that thisdesign lacks a transformer of any kind.

This modification is brought about bythe theoretical and experimentalunderstanding of the electrical needs ofa BG electrolyzer (about 2 VDC percell) and the electrical potentialsreadily available to the general public(120 VAC or 240 VAC).

Area cut off top of plates allowsfree gas mixing and water refilloperation.

Schedule 80 CPVC pipe

Degrease Plates

Hole in end plate forstainless steel bolt.

Min. 3/4" thick CPVCend plate

Stainless steel plates

Fig. 2

View of inner SS plate andplastic ring

All inner platesno holes and degreased

All inner spacer ringsPVC schedule 40

Holes for through-boltsin end plates

Traditional electrolyzers use a 'singlecell'design with lots of plate area tohandle the hundreds of amps flowingthrough the cell. Because hundreds ofamps (at about two volts) are neededfor this traditional design, a hugetransformer is used to convert readilyavailable 240 VAC at 5 amps to about3.2 volts at 375 amps (1200 wattsdrawn from the wall).

Transformers: are quite noisy; emit alot of heat; weigh hundreds ofpounds; are expensive (cost hundredsor thousands of dollars); and are big,needing room for their enclosure, aswell.

The series-cell design allowselimination of the transformer, with itsassociated noise, heat, weight, size andadditional expense (including theelimination of the fan, to cool thetransformer, and the energy it took torun). The heat and noise of thetransformer are symptoms of lostelectricity (inefficient electricalcoupling and induction). Thatelectricity can now be used to directlyproduce Brown's Gas.

The series-cell design turns nearly allthe electricity taken from the wall intogas production, silently and with verylittle heat wasted. Series-cell designallows simple, inexpensive, compactsize that is light-weight.

Simple power supply

commercial e1ectrolyzers that use atransformer, and safer actually.

No complicated (or expensive) powersupply is needed for the series-celldesign. In fact, the power is fed inthrough high voltage wires that aremuch less expensive (smaller diameter)and simpler to wire than the hugecables needed for the traditionaltransformer design.

If electronic controls are desired (suchas electronic relay instead ofmechanical relay), high voltageelectronics are less expensive andeasier to install than high amperageelectronics.

The diodes of a full-wave bridgerectifier are MUCH less expensivewhen you only need a low amperagerating.

Oversize the diodes by at least twice,because the amperage surges aregreater than the average amperage.For a 5 amp e1ectrolyzer, you need tenamp diodes. For a traditional 400 ampelectrolyzer you need 800 amp diodes(VERY EXPENSIVE).

Also, the diodes of any full-wavebridge rectifier are much more efficientswitching higher voltages at loweramperages. Rectifiers (diodes) eachhave a 'voltage drop'across them ofabout 0.6 Volt (a little more than 112volt). When you multiply this voltageby the amperage going through thediode, you get the wattage wasted inthe diode. This wasted wattage showsup as heat. I explain below:

With a 1200 watt electrolyzer at 2 voltsacross the electrolyzer, we would have1.2 volts (the voltage required for theelectricity to go through two diodes)times 375 amps equals 450 watts(heat) in the rectifiers. More than 113of the electricity going through theconventional electrolyzer is wasted aswattage (heat) in the rectifiers.

Further, this heat must be removedfrom the diodes (rectifiers) or they willfry. A huge heat sink (large, heavy andexpensive) and a fan are usually

needed for electrolyzers using thismuch amperage. This is in addition tothe fan required by the transformer.

However, a 1200 watt series-cellelectrolyzer at 240 volts only needs todraw 5 amps. 1.2 volts times 5 ampsequals 6 watts heating the diodes.Only a small heat sink is needed tocool these diodes - no fan!

It should be remembered thatAMPERAGE makes Brown's Gas, notvoltage. And we've eliminated thetransformer which allowed us to have375 amps to make BG.

Again, the series-cell proves superior.It turns out that the amount of gasmade by the electrolyzer is the productof the number of cells multiplied bythe amperage flowing through all thecells in series. So 120 cells times 5amps gives us 600 amps worth of gas!We have nearly twice the gas with theseries-cell than when we'd used thetransformer with the traditional shortcell.

Power supply options

We strongly recommend that youactually take advantage of the 240VAC that is available in most anyhome or shop.

Examples of appliances already using240 VAC include: electric range; waterheater; clothes dryer; and electricbaseboard heaters. In the shop a lot ofelectric motors are 240, arc welders are240, etc.

With an eight inch electrolyzer at tenamps @ 240 volts you can actuallymake 1,000 liters per hour. This is therated output of Yull Brown's BN 1000,now (Jan., 1997) advertised retail at$10,000.

The choice you make affects otherdesign parameters such as how manycells you need and the final efficiencyyou want out of the electrolyzer.

These are the three options that meetthe basic requirements to make

Brown's Gas, (all three use a full wavebridge rectifier):1. Capacitive Limiting2. Voltage Doubler3. Voltage Doubler with capacitive

limiting

Explore your power supply options inthe Power Supply Designs chapter.Then apply your option of choice tothe chapter on Sizing Your BGElectrolyzer.

Remember: to make a quantity of gas,you will need a large quantity ofelectricity. Lucky for you, you'll needless electricity with this design than ifyou'd bought a commercial unit.

Electrolyte

Electrolyte is absolutely required toproduce Brown's Gas in this

.. electrolyzer design. The electrolyte isa chemical that acts as a catalyst,which means it assists the watersplitting apart (by vastly speeding upthe process) without being 'consumed'or changed in the process.

Having the electrolyte in theelectrolyzer allows the electricity toefficiently split the water using only afraction of the power that would beneeded if the electrolyte wasn't there.

The electrolyte (catalyst) does NOT getconsumed as the e1ectrolyzer makesgas (see Brown's Gas. Book 1 fordetails). As the water is split intohydrogen and oxygen, the electrolytestays behind. The electrolyte is put inwith the first fill of water and no moreshould ever be needed for the life ofthe electrolyzer. As the solution levelgets low, just add water!

There are many electrolyte solutions.Some are better than others for reasonsof compatibility with various materials,caustic properties, purchase price,availability, etc.

We have been experimenting almostexclusively with Sodium Hydroxide(lye or caustic soda) because of it'sefficiency, low cost and availability. A


mixture of four parts water to onepart Lye (by weight) works well.

WARNING: The electrolyte Oye)mixture is extremely caustic. Animalfibers (wool, silk...) are readilydissolved. Vegetable fibers (cotton,hemp..) are not attacked.

Hydroxides are formed when metallicoxides are combined with water(Example: calcium hydroxide=CaO+H20=Ca(HO)2)' We will beexperimenting with AluminumHydroxide, Barium Hydroxide,Calcium Hydroxide, LithiumHydroxide (tested), and PotassiumHydroxide (caustic potash) (tested).

Eagle-Research electrolyzers operatewith sodium hydroxide and are notdesigned to be compatible with anyother electrolyte solutions.

Compatibility with other electrolyteswould involve careful selection andTESTING of different electrolyzermaterials than we are currentlyrecommending.

Sealing between cells

Extremely important note: Theelectrolyte in each cell must beelectrically isolated from theelectrolyte in every other cell. This'forces'the amperage (electrons) totravel 'in-series'through each plate andelectrolyte in tum, from negative topositive. If the electrolyte is common,the electricity will by-pass all the cellsexcept the two end plates and the'series-cell'will only be a common 2volt cell.

A good example of this effect is anordinary vehicle battery. Theelectrolyte, in each 2 volt cell, isisolated from the other 5 cells. Inseries, the six 2-volt cells make 12volts. If the electrolyte in an ordinaryautomotive battery was common to allthe celis, you'd simply have a 2 voltbattery.

Our experiments show that a slightelectrolyte leakage between cells isacceptable. The cell spacers don ~

have to be glued to seal well enough.A simple press-fit, as described, worksgreat. Some people may want to put atiny (1116") hole in each plate toguarantee even liquid levels in allcells. This is not recommended. Ourexperiments show that plateeffectiveness is reduced when a smallhole is added.

It is possible to make an automaticfilling arrangement. But in ourprototypes, we try to experiment withas few variables as possible. At thistime, we do not have automaticfilling. Further, you'd fill theelectrolyzer perhaps once a day if youused it continuously at high volumes.We fill ours about once a week. It isgood to get down and look over themachine once in awhile to see it'sgeneral condition and verify that youhave no leaks. Thus we recommendagainst any kind of automatic fillingarrangement.

Plate masking

We have tested 'masking'the top ofeach plate. It seems NOT to beneeded. Testing many differentmasking techniques produced nomeasurable advantage over notmasking the plates.

Originally, we figured that masking thetops ofthe plates was needed to avoidthe bare surface of the plates touchingthe gas. We suspected that voltage andelectron potential on the plates wouldcause the gas to go di-atomic. Thisseems NOT to be the case.

Plate degreasing

EXTREMELY IMPORTANT: if youdo not remove the oil (degrease) fromthe plates before installing them in theelectrolyzer, you will lose a hugeamount of efficiency. The oilseriously inhibits the electrolysisprocess that makes Brown's Gas. (seeDegrease Plates)

Plate tex1uring

Texturing the plates is no longer aserious consideration. It seems that the

texturing process we were using wassimply an inefficient means ofdegreasing the plates. The texturingseems to make no difference, butremoving the grease/oil sure does.

Onginally, we thought that makinglittle 'peaks'on the plates suifacewould cause an efficiency increase.Plate texturing does not seem to yieldefficiency gains.

Plate material

There seems to be no advantage togoing to exotic materials. We've testedthings like iridium and platinum.Simple 316 stainless steel (S8) seemsto be fine. Just remember to degreasethe plates.

Plate thickness

Plate thickness need only be enough tosupport it's weight without bending,while holding the plate by it's edge in ahorizontal position. In most cases youdon't need thicker than 0.015 inches.For smaller diameters 0.010 inches isenough. Be very careful the keep theplate flat. It is very easy to bend thisthin sheeting.

Plate spacing

Plate spacing is an extremely vitalparameter. Generally, WIDER platespacing is better than narrow. Believeme, this surprised us too. In fact, if theplates are spaced closer together, thevoltage between the plates goes down.We thought the voltage efficiencywould be increased. It was but thetotal electrolyzer efficiencyDECREASED.By 'electrolyzer efficiency', we meanthe Watt/hr's per liter of gas produced.With 3/32" ( 2 mm) plate spacing, weused over 5 watt/hr's per liter of gasand got NO BG ( 77% efficiency).

With 3/8" plate spacing, we used lessthan 3 watt/hr's per liter ( 162%efficiency). Actually, we noticed adecrease in efficiency at plate spacingswider than 3/8".


I currently theorize that the wider platespacing (318") allows atomic gasses toescape from the fluid as the ions travelthrough the fluid, BEFORE the ionsreach the plates. Maybe the pulses ofelectricity help 'shock'the fluid(between the plates) enough to allowthe oxygen & hydrogen atoms to breakoff, before the atoms reach the plates.

The flame (we've produced so far)tends to be a bit oxidizing. Perhapsthe atomic oxygen separates before (oreasier than) the atomic hydrogen does.

Wider plate spacing also helps bystoring more water in the electrolyzer,making it longer periods betweenrefills. Note: you only refill withWATER. The electrolyte stays in thecontainer as the water is split intooxygen and hydrogen and leaves.

Number of cells

The number of cells depends on theexact voltage that is available to you;,the electrolyte you choose; theconcentration of electrolyte; the cellspacing and the power supply designyou choose.

As you read more about the aboveparameters, you'll get a better idea ofhow many cells you want in yourelectrolyzer.

Generally speaking, try to reduce youroptions to 'givens'. Then you canfigure how many cells you need.

Example 'Givens':e 240 VAC available from wall.e: plate spacing 3/8 inch.e: Sodium Hydroxide electrolyte.e 4:1 (four parts water to one part

NaOH by weight).e Voltage Doubler power supply.

These 'Givens'allow you to figurecells at 1.75 volts per cell (see VoltageDoubler, in Designing Power Supply).240 VAC RMS / 1.75 gives 138 cells.

It does not matter how big a diameterthe electrolyzer is for this calculation.The diameter is more a factor ofhowmuch gas you need. Therefore, how

much amperage you will be puttingthrough the electrolyzer.

Pure water

It is vital to add only pure water toyour electrolyzer. If there are anyimpurities in the water, they will 'plateout'on the stainless steel plates, orcreate sludge or foam in the cells.Some impurities will cause poisonousgasses to form.

If you use pure water for operationrefilling, it may be years beforecleaning is needed.

We recommend that you use at least50,000 ohm 'deionized'water,available from your local 'waterdealer'. If you don't have access todeionized water, use distilled water.

When buying 'store-bought'water, besure that nothing has been added.('impurities'are often added to'improve the taste'of the water.)

Fail-safe features

The electrolyzer design described inthis book is fairly safe. The pressureswitch allows easy, automaticoperation. The Bubbler reliably arrestsbackfires. (see 'Designing & Buildinga Bubbler' to find a proper design)

The electronic liquid and temperaturecontrols help prevent accidents (butshould only be used as assist, not toreplace personal monitoring of theelectrolyzer). (see 'Liquid Level andTemperature Controls 'for our design)

The pressure relief valve (vented tooutside your building, covered andplaced high, to prevent garbage, insects& water from getting in) prevents theelectrolyzer bursting in case thepressure switch fails.

DO NOT operate any electrolyzerwithout AT LEAST a PROPERpressure switch, pressure gauge and abubbler. This can't be stressed often orhard enough. This is the MINIMUMoperating equipment. Further, it PAYSto buy or build high quality equipment.

DON'T use cheap or substandard orincompatible materials for these items.Your LIFE depends on it.

It so happens that I KNOW some ofyou will use substandard parts. I knowthis because I've been selling plans forvarious projects for years and I've seenthe cost cutting and 'modifications'that some people apply.

For those ofyou who are tempted tocut comers in cost or quality ofconstruction, I hope you find the nextlife interesting. It is only a matter oftime before you won't have to worryabout this one.

Worse yet, you might not be killed. Youmay be in extreme pain as the causticsolution eats your body andyou 'lilivea long life scarred, blinded andcrippled.

There'll be no sense in suing Eagle-Research for your mistake. NeitherEagle nor I have any assets to sue for.All the equipment and assets that weuse for research are owned by othersand the use is just donated to theproject.

Personal use ofthis home-builtexperimental electrolyzer requiresproper respect. Check the fluid levelsoften enough (particularly bubbler) toprevent a dangerous situation.

Keeping an eye on the pressure gaugeand listening to the electrolyzer'cycling'on and off works OK to

prevent bursting due to over-pressure,if the pressure switch fails. You shouldnotice if the 'cycling'stops. (I did. Iwas using a pressure switch that hadan aluminum piston and cylinder. Thehydroxide caused corrosion whichprevented the piston from moving.) Anelectrolyzerproducing high efficiencygas on an intermittent basis does notover-heat.

FEAR is a good thing here. You areworking with a gas and equipment thatcould KILL you ifyou are not careful.Like driving a car, learn proper habitsand adhere to them, EVERY TIME -even ifyou are in a hurry. This gas

6 www.eagle-research.com/Browns Gas, Book 2

demands respect. Ifyou are not afraidofthe consequences that could happenwith this gas, you should stayfar awayfrom it. It will KILL you (or worse).

This is EXACTLY the fear that YullBrown lives with everyday (me too),that one ofyou will kill (or maim)yourself. Yull Brown discouragesexperimentation. Eagle-Research triesto make it safe. Only time will tellwhich ofour philosophies is best formankind.

Remember, you are building YOUROWN electrolyzer. You are used toBUYING equipment that meetsgovernment safety and designstandards. All the government safetyconsiderations imposed onmanufacturers are now YOURresponsibility. It is up to YOU to builda safe electrolyzer. Do it right andyou'll enjoy a wonderful electrolyzer.Do it wrong, and it won't be pretty.

Ifyou don't have time to do it rightnow, when will you have time to do itover?

Bubbler tank

The bubbler tank prevents a backfiregoing to the electrolyzer, by separatingthe gas flow into very small bubblesthat are each completely surrounded bywater. The gas may explode (andimplode) but the explosion WILL NOTtravel through the water. The bubblertank, as designed here, will contain theexplosion.

The Bubbler is needed. It is the onlything we've discovered, so far, that willoperate on a continuous basis,absolutely trouble free, AND reliablystop a backfire (explosion).

Design it properly and maintain acertain water level in it (about sixinches above the diffuser). If youdon't design it properly, it will explode(killing you or worse). If you don'tmaintain a proper bubbler liquid level,your e1ectrolyzer will explode (killingyou and blowing your shop into thesurrounding area).

The Bubbler is made of thick StainlessSteel that can contain a backfire. YouWILL get many backfires, so designa tank to be very strong. Extra moneyspent here is CRITICAL.

The bubbler in this book is alreadydesigned to be twice as strong as theone we use. Our original was alreadysafe. My point is: you do not need tomake the bubbler of thicker steel thanspecified.

Use a reliable welding shop to weldyour bubbler tank together. DO NOTaccept shoddy work. Your life dependson it.

Uquid-vapor separator

To prevent liquid from being drawnfrom the electrolyzer, take the gas fromthe highest point possible. Thisrequires a hole in the shell, not the end-plate.

In some cases, a liquid-vapor separator(I-v s) arrangement is still needed. (Iuse one as a matter of course), becauseliquid can be carried by the gas comingfrom the e1ectrolyzer.

The I-v s is simply a wide spot in thehose going from the electrolyzer to thebubbler. We make it out of ordinaryschedule 40 clear PVC pipe and caps,2" diameter X a foot high.

Locate the I-v s above the electrolyzerso that any liquid it contains can drainback to the electrolyzer.Use at least a 1/2 inch inside diameterhose from the electrolyzer to the I-v s ,to allow for easy draining. Don't allowany dips in this hose, or the 'liquidpuddle' that forms in the dip willprevent the liquid-vapor separator fromdraining.

The hose from the top of the liquid-vapor separator to the Bubbler can be3/8". Check-valve and valve #2 can be3/8". We like to use gate valves. Ballvalves are unreliable for this service.Get a high quality check-valve. (seeResources)

Note: you must keep your check-valveclear or it will get debris stuck in theseal and will leak. If your check-valveleaks, it'll drain your bubbler into yourelectrolyzer. This will over-fill yourelectrolyzer and cause dangerously lowwater levels in your bubbler.

The valve # 2 is in-line coming out ofthe liquid-vapor separator (Fig. 1).This deliberate arrangement tends tokeep contamination from the bubblertank, getting stuck in the check-valve.Contamination tends to drop straightdown onto the gate valve. If any getsover to the check-valve, the gas flowtends to blow it back over to settle onthe gate valve. When you open thegate valve to put water into theelectrolyzer, the contamination (bits ofdirt and metal from the bubbler tank)gets drained to the electrolyzer, whereit might contaminate the electrolyzerbut won't likely hurt anything.

SIZING A BG ELECTROLYZER

Gas volume needed

You need to decide how much gasvolume you need for your applications.

For jewelers '-work and electronics,you only need a very small flame.This is the size of torch that the BN200 was designed to operate. We thinkthe BN 200 was a bit small. Anelectrolyzer with less than a 500 literper hour capability is notrecommended.

We size our electrolyzers as ER XXXX(Eagle-Research). So,an (Eagle-Research) electrolyzers ratedfor 1,000Liters per hour would be an ER1000.

The series-cell design will operateefficiently at any volume up to its totalcapacity. If you need only 400 litersper hour (LIh), you could use a 2400Lih electrolyzer, but you'll be payingmore money than you have to, to buildthe electrolyzer. In addition, you'dneed a 60 amp breaker.

The operating expense would be thesame if you take 400 Lih from a


500 Lih electrolyzer or a 2400 Lihelectrolyzer. The 2400 Lih electrolyzerwould cost more to build and require agreater amount of amperage from yourpower supply during the shorter timesit is operating (it would switch on foronly very brief moments).

Note: it is NOT efficient to operate anyelectrolyzer at low amperage.Operating below a certain amperagecauses LESS mon-atomic gas to beformed. It is best to have theelectrolyzer operate at it's ratedamperage, then shut off when it'spressure is reached. Tum it back onagain when the pressure drops a bit.

Note: For those people who think ofjust using a pressure-relief valve tocontrol the pressure in the electrolyzer(instead of a pressure switch andrelay), consider these points:1. Your pressure relief valve is likely tofail because of hydroxide film buildup,which prevents the seal from sealing.2. You spent money in electricity tomake the gas that you are throwingaway.3. Electrolyzers that operate full-on, allthe time, quickly overheat and meltdown.4. It is not hard to wire in a switch andrelay. Further, the switch-relaycombination allows many moreautomatic controls to be added easily.5. The pressure relief is strictly a finalsafety precaution to prevent bursting,due to over-pressure. (Actually, itshould never open.)

The slight amount of moisture thataccompanies the gas presents sometrouble for small torch tips #000).The moisture tends to condense in thetorch hose, puddle and flow along tothe torch tip. The 'slugs'of liquid pluga small orifice, for an instant, as theygo through it. This effect causes yourflame to go out. It could also cause abackfire.

If your application involves very smallflames, use a bubbler that is extra high( three feet) with multiple layers ofcoarse SS screen in the top 16", to helpcondense the water moisture. Don'tmake the screen holes too fine (not less

than 1/4" gaps between wires) or thecondensed liquid won't drain backagainst the gas flow. Don't use toofine a material for the screen (Jess than1/16" SS wire) or the backfires willbum it up.

We've done some testing on torch tipgas volume requirements. For mostapplications (including cutting 1 " thicksteel) a #0 torch tip or a #0-3 cuttingtip is adequate. A 1,000Vhelectrolyzer will support theseapplications. 1,000Vh requires16 amps @ 240 VAC.

A 2400 Lih electrolyzer will support upto a #6 torch tip. This requires48 amps at 240 VAC or 11.5 Kwh ofpower. You can do some seriousmelting of various materials with thissize of tip, but you are virtuallyassured of a backfire when you shut itoff. It is very hard to shut off theflame quickly enough.

Note: to idle a small four cylinderengine (140 cubic inch), you need inexcess of 3000 LIh)

The following chart shows minimumacceptable flame volumes in LIh, andmaximum possible volume (the volumeat which the flame goes out due toexcessive gas velocity). The 'Amps'part of the chart shows the DCamperage requirements of a 126 cellelectrolyzer, at 240 VAC, to get theMINIMUM gas volume (LIh) requiredfor the 'Torch Tip'. You can figure theMax. amperage (requires moreamperage) in direct ratio to the litersMax. Lih produced.

Tip: Min.: Max.: MinimumLih Lih Amps:

000 250 300 4.5500 500 1100 9.01o 550 1200 10.001 600 2000 10.702 650 2400 11.80

Remember that as you clean a torch tip(with little roundfiles) the orifice sizegradually increases. This makes it intoa larger torch tip and it will requiregreater gas flow to prevent baclfire.

Available power

You need to decide how much andwhat kinds of power you haveavailable to operate an electrolyzer,before you decide how many cells youwill put into your electrolyzer.

As you can see from the previous data,a 1,000 Lih electrolyzer will require 16amps at 240 VAC. Our actualefficiency is better than 4 watt-hoursper liter BUT for figuring out yourneeded power it is better to deliberatelyfigure on the less efficient side.

A 20 amp 240 breaker would just holdthis application. Just make sure yourbreaker is rated for about 30% moreamperage than you will be running.

It is unreasonable to expect a breakerto continuously hold an amperage nearit's rated capacity. Every time abreaker is tripped, it doesn't hold aswell the next time. This is how they'wear out'.

To figure your needed powerrequirements for any givenelectrolyzer, figure it's MAXIMUMamperage capability. That's what itwill do whenever it is on. This isanother reason not to over-size yourelectrolyzer. You may not be able topower it. If you do have an over-sizedelectrolyzer, there are some tricks tomake it use less power (of course itwill make less gas too).(see Designing Electrolyzer PowerSupply (Capacitive limiting)

If you are using only 200 Lih from a1000 Lih electrolyzer, then you willuse (at 240 VAC) 16 amps for oneminute in every five minutes.The electrolyzer power requirementmath goes like this: Multiply the litersper hour times 4 watt-hours (thisequals the total watt-hours required)and then divide the total watt-hours bythe voltage to be applied to theelectrolyzer; you now have the ampsrequired.

Eg: 1000 Lih * 4 WhIL = 4000 Wh4000 Wh / 240 VAC = 16.6 amps.


Electrolyzer diameter

Eg: 1000 L/h * 4 WhlL = 4000 Wh4000 Wh /120 VAC =33.3 amps.

Note: it is more efficient to run higheramperages (within the ratings) forshorter times.

Extra plate diameter allows higheramperage efficiently. Gas flowsassume 240 VAC wall voltage, 126cells, 3/8 inch plate spacing, 4:1 NaOHand voltage doubler power supply.

Electrolyte concentration

Unless otherwise specified, use a 4:1mixture (by weight) of sodiumhydroxide. This is four parts water toone part hydroxide, or a 20% solution.This is not something to take forgranted, but it isn't really causticeither. If spills are cleaned upimmediately very little bum will result.

It is a great advantage to be able to useleaner mixtures, because of reducedinitial electrolyte cost, and reducedchance of harm during filling, draining,leaks and (God forbid) explosions.Leaner mixtures (as lean as 72:1) workfine in the electrolyzer, but leanmixtures reduce your natural amperageflow. To get your amperage flow back,just add a lot more capacitance on thevoltage doubler (this makes theenclosure larger and more expensive).

We have done extensive testing withvarious solutions and discovered thebest results with the stronger solutions.Mostly, the strong solutions helpreduce the foaming problem and allowa lower voltage resistance per cell.

Kind of electrolyte

Further, and actually most importantly,both e1ectrolyzer efficiency and thewattage efficiency go down with theplate spacing too close. Too close iscloser than 1/4".

Unless specified otherwise, this bookdeals with sodium hydroxide. We'vealready tested a variety of electrolytesand found nothing better than sodiumhydroxide.

There is no reason to go wider than1/2" between the plates. In fact, 3/8"shows up as more efficient than 1/2".

extra low liquid levels in thee1ectrolyzer.

If the plates are too close together, it ismore difficult to properly fill theelectrolyzer. Air tends to get trappedbetween the plates.

In a practical sense, this means that theAMPERAGE will increase given acertain number of cells, a set wallvoltage and making the plates closertogether.

All calculations in this book are basedon 3/8" recommended plate spacing.We've done a huge amount of testingon various plate spacing. 3/8" is thebest we've found!

Plate spacing

Of course, the opposite is true too.Given a fixed number of cells andfixed voltage input; AMPERAGE willdecrease by making the plates fartherapart.

The plate spacing affects the number ofcells, and thus the length of themachine.

Pressure is a consideration here.Larger diameter pipes generallyoperate with less pressure. Our twelveinch schedule 80 CPVC is still wellwithin acceptable pressure limits, aslong as no backfire EVER goesthrough the Bubbler and reaches theelectrolyzer. I assure you (BECAUSEWE'VE HAD IT HAPPEN) that theelectrolyzer will pop (burst) like aballoon if it's pressure rating isexceeded, spreading plastic andelectrolyte everywhere in your shop.It's not nice.

As a rule of thumb, don't go closerthan 1/4" plate spacing per cell for anyreason. Closer than this causes asevere problem with the foam crawlingup the plates, making a need to keep

'Volts'are not mentioned as aconsideration for electrolyzer diameter.That is because the only factor thatmatters here is AMPERAGE per inchof plate surface. Rule of thumb: 0.5amps per square inch of plate surface.

inside-outside diameters, 'out of roundtolerance'and the wall thickness (withmin.-max. tolerances) specificationsfrom the manufacturer who sells youthe pipe.

Max. DCMin. DC

Note that the amperages below are forDC voltage across the electrolyzer; youWILL be drawing more AC amperagefrom the wall than you note as DCacross the e1ectrolyzer. Example: our30 DC amp ten inch electrolyzer draws48 AC amps from the wall. This is aneffect of the voltage doubler.

amps amps6" 4 amps 7 amps

(355 LIh) (673 LIh)8" 9 amps 16 amps

(799 LIh) (1539 LIh)10" 18 amps 30 amps

(1598 LIh) (2886 LIh)12" 25 amps 42 amps

(2220 LIh) (4040 LIh)The diameters mentioned are 'nominal'sizes of CPVC schedule 80, which Irecommend as the electrolyzer 'shell'.The actual inner and outer diameters ofthe CPVC pipe are different than the'nominal'size. You can get the actual

In North America, some places use 110to 220 VAC power, others use 115 to230 VAC and otherplaces use 120 to240 VAC power. This small voltagedifference makes little difference tomost equipment. It WILL make adifference in designing yourelectrolyzer and power supply.Measure your wall voltage beforedesigning your electrolyzer.

There is a great advantage to going tothe higher voltage. Higher amperageparts are very expensive. Highervoltage parts are smaller and lessexpensive. 240 VAC is available mosteverywhere.


Power supply option

The power supply is VITAL to makingBrown's Gas. Straight DC voltage willnot produce Brown's Gas. Theelectricity MUST be pulsed. We haveworked with the natural pulsesavailable to us from the wall.Remember this is a KISS book (KeepIt Seriously Simple).(see Power Supply Designs)

BUILDING A BG ELECTROLYZER

Safety tips

Protective clothing should be worn atall times. Coveralls should bevegetable fiber, such as cotton.

Ordinary shop work can be done withleather gloves. Use disposable latexgloves to handle sodium hydroxide.

It helps to have a full rubber apronwhile handling sodium hydroxide asany caustic solution. Boots should becompatible with sodium hydroxide(lye) solution.

Eye protection should be worn at alltimes in any shop environment. Keepa spray bottle of vinegar on hand tospray on any lye spill, particularlyspills on human skin (lemon juiceworks well too). This helps neutralizethe caustic action 'til you can wash itwith ordinary water.

An eye flush station should be installedin your shop, along with stored freshwater, because in the case of a majoraccident your electric power ought tobe shut off. Hence, you'll have norunning water. (safety supplies - seeResources)

Electrolyzer list of materials

This list of materials is for assemblinga general electrolyzer; no sizes orquantities are given, except where allthe electrolyzers are the same. This listis for the e1ectrolyzer ITSELF. It doesnot include the Control box, Bubbler orany connecting hoses or wires. Forspecific specifications and sizes ofthe

electrolyzerparts. see the appropriatesections in this book.

WARNING; DO NOT USEALUMINUM ANYWHERE IN THISELECTROLYZER DESIGN!Aluminum reacts violently withSodium Hydroxide in the presence ofwater. Aluminum hides in strangeplaces, like wetted parts of mostpressure switches and pressure gauges.When purchasing parts, verifycompatibility in writing, so you cansend the parts back if incompatible. Ifpurchasing 'surplus'you can get greatprices, but 'Buyer Beware'. You getNO guarantees.

One shell, schedule 80 plastic pipe.

Two plastic end-plates, 3/4" thick(height and width depend on shelldiameter). Best to use CPVC plasticfor shell and end-plates (CPVC cantake up to 160F before it hasproblems with these pressures, PVCcan only take 120F).

Steel end-plates, (all otherspecifications dependent on shelldiameter, found elsewhere).

Spacer rings, 3/8" wide, cut fromschedule 40 PVC (all otherspecifications dependent on shelldiameter, found elsewhere).

Through-bolts, nuts, flat washers, (allother specifications dependent onshell diameter, found elsewhere).

End-gaskets, two sheets of 118 inchthick EPDM rubber, about 60 to 90hardness (all other specificationsdependent on shell diameter, foundelsewhere).

Stainless steel power-bolts, washers,nuts, (all other specificationsdependent on shell diameter, foundelsewhere) .

118" EPDM a-rings for sealingpower-bolts (all other specificationsdependent on power-bolt diameter,found elsewhere).

Plastic spacers for around power-bolts and liquid level tubes, cut out oftriangle left by cutting comer off theplastic end-plates.

Sodium hydroxide, amountdetermined elsewhere.

Note: Copperpipe fittings are OK withsodium hydroxide. Brass is slightlyincompatible (surface turns black),which means you can use it in non-critical areas (everywhere exceptinside the pressure switch and gauge).

3/8" MNPT to 112" barbed fitting for'gas out'hose, with one #6 hoseclamp.

2 of 118" pipe nipples for liquid levelsight tube.

2 of 118" Tee, with male on run; forTee off liquid level sight tube andvalve 3 and 4 on run.

2 of 118" Brass needle valves (or gatevalves preferred) for valves 3 and 4.Be sure to install so the 'valve stempacking'is on the outside, not incontact with the pressurizedelectrolyte.

2 of 118" MNPT to 114" barbed, forthe sight tube.

One length of 114" ID clear, braidedPVC hose, with 2 of #4 hose clamps.

One small HDPE plastic ball, to floatinside the sight tube.

Note: There will also be additionalholes in the electrolyzer (shell or end-plates) for various temperature andpressure sensors, depending on thetype of gauges and controls youchoose.(see Building A Control Box)

The following list of components andfittings is for the special 8" e1ectrolyzerwe are building to demonstrate at the1997 Tesla Symposium.

These lists (based on our ERXXXX)are included to assist you in making achecklist for your own electrolyzer.


Cut rings from tube

The list for the power supply andbubblers are in the appropriate sectionsof this book.

Note: No spacers, to separate the platesin the e1ectrolyzer design, are depicted(Fig. 1). They are there, just notshown. We used PVC plastic 'ring'

2 1/2'x 8" clear PVC Shell 2x 2 1/2'x 7/16" Bolts 20x Box of 7/16" Nuts Ix Box of 7/16" Lock-washers Ix Box of 7/16" Flat-washers Ix10" x 10" CPVC Endplate 4x 10" x 10"1/4" Iron plate 4x 1/8" thick Rubber Gasket 4x5/16" SS Bolt, washers, nuts 2x 5/16" Plastic Bushings 2x 7.8" S.S. Plates (disks) 132x 8" PVC Rings 130x 2 ft. 1/4" PVC Tubing Ix 8'of 1/2" Tubing Ix 8'of 1/4" Tubing Ix 2'of 3/8" Tubing Ix

After you've cut the rings from thepipe, you need to cut a small sectionout of the ring to allow the ringto(squeeze together enough to fit insidethe shell.

Determine the amount to cut out bytest cutting one 'til it fits. Insert therings in a clamp-jig and cut several at atime with a saber-saw. It doesn'tmatter if there is a slight gap ( 1/8")when the ring is inserted into the shell.

Size rings

It is possible to have the plates'stamped out'too, but you'll have topay an 'up-front'fee (at least $1,500)for the stamp made to yourspecifications, and then about $1.31 inquantities of 1,000.

Contact a laser-cutting or abrasivewater cutting service, to have yourplates made for you. Most cuttingcompanies will do small runs at veryreasonable prices.

Mark out plates

Ordinary pipe-style wood clamps willwork to hold the rings in place whileyou make the two cuts that remove thesection out of all the clamped rings.

Another method to cut rings would beto use a large band saw of the typeused to cut steel pipe. Local metalwholesalers would have such saws.

Note: The cut must be done fairlyquickly to preventplastic from'cooking'right onto the saw blade.The special saw blade is designed tominimize this problem but it stillhappens over a period of time. When aresidue ofplastic accumulates on theblade, just sand off the plasticaccumulation with sandpaper and/or adisc sander.

Abrasive 'cut-off'saws work quitewell. The problem would be findingone large enough. This method workedextremely well for our tiny 2" series-cell test electrolyzers.

spacers, shaped to hold the metal platesapart all around the outer edges. PVCfor the rings because it is lessexpensive than CPVC and doesn't haveto hold pressure.We like using schedule 40 PVC pipe asring-spacers, getting the same nominalsize as the schedule 80 CPVC chosenfor the outer shell. The schedule 40has a thinner wall. This worksperfectly as spacers. So schedule 80for the shell, and schedule 40 for therings.

The thickness of the spacer should beenough to cover (by at least 1/8") theedge of the plate and any gap. That'swhy we use schedule 40 pipe. Therings are cut from pipe that is the samenominal size as the shell. This makesit slightly too large to fit inside thee1ectrolyzer. Then a small section iscut from the ring so that the ring willnow squeeze to a smaller diameter,fitting inside the shell with a 'springloaded tension'.

The procedure is to lower the table sawblade, slide the pipe sideways to thestop (saw fence set, for example 318"ring, after saw kerf) and then raise thetable saw blade with the saw running.The saw would cut upwards into thepipe. When the saw has cut fully intothe pipe, you rotate the pipe to finishcutting off the n'ng ofplastic. (note;rotating the pipe one way may bebetter than the other, try both ways).Then lower the saw blade again so thatthe pipe can be advanced (slidesideways) to cut off the next ring.

Mr. Wootan used a special plastic tablesaw cutting blade (available from USPlastic Corp.) to assure a smooth cuton the plastic.

Assembly tip: Norman Wootandeveloped a simple jig to cut narrowrings from large diameter plastic pipe(6" to 12"). He set up rollers so thatthe pipe could be rolled while over atable saw. He set up another roller toact as a stop. We modified this to be apiece ofplastic, screwed to the tablesaw fence.

Quantity

Quantity

Fittings

1/4" Panel Mount Valve 2x 3/8" Check Valve 2x 1/2" Barb-3/8" MPT 6x Tee, 3/8" FPT all ends 2x 1/4" Barb-3/8" MPT 5x 3/8" Street Tee,MPT on run Ix 3/8" Street Elbow Ix Tee, 1/4" FPT all ends 5x 1/4" Close Nipple 4x 1/4" Barb-1/4" MPT 16x 1/4" Barb-1/8" MPT Ix 1/2" Close Nipple 2x 1/2" Cap 2x 1/4" Barb-1/4" FPT Ix 3/8"-1/4" Bushing Ix 1/4" Bulkhead Ix 1/8"x1-1/2" Long Nipple 4x 1/8" Barb-1/8" MPT 6x 1/8" Street Elbow 4x 1/4" Barb-1/4" F. Flare Swivel 4x 1/8" MPT-Flare Needle Valve 4x 1/4" Hex Cored Plug Ix 1/4" x1-1/2 Long Nipple Ix 1/4" Street Elbow Ix 1/4" FPT-MPT Needle Valve Ix 1/4" MPT- Acet. Ix

Component

Brown's Gas, Book 2/ www.eagle-research.com11

An alternative is to find someone whocan stamp plates in round circles andthen you just cut off the flat edge. Onesuch company (for six inch disks) isBokers, Inc. (see Resources). Theyhave a 'standard'stamp that will cut0.015" thick of 316 stainless steel at5.603 inches in diameter +/- 0.010".They will charge about $2.40 per platefor quantities as low as 250.

One of my readers stumbled onto a realfind. He found a range manufacturerthat is using stainless steel for theirrange lids. They were throwing thecircles they cut out (for the elements)away. Perhaps with a bit of lookingyou can find a manufacturer thatstamps circles out of their product andget a deal too. Then you just choosethe pipe diameter that fits your plates.

But, assuming you want to do ityourself, like we did, here's how wedid it.

First you make a 'Master Plate' (out ofsteel); which is a plate that is exactlythe way you want every other plate tobe. You will measure your pipe andmake the plates so they fit insideeasily.

Plate height (from flat top to bottom ofplate) is important, we want as high aspossible without impeding gas flow.And we want to be low enough foreasy liquid filling.

Rule of thumb would be:Six inch electrolyzer, 5.6" diametercircle, cut off at 4.85"Eight inch electrolyzer, 7.5" diametercircle, cut off at 6.5"Ten inch electrolyzer, 9.4" diametercircle, cut off at 8.15"Twelve inch electrolyzer, 11.2"diameter circle, cut off at 9.7"

For example: the six inch diameterschedule 80 CPVC pipe has an innerdiameter of about 5.657 and so wemake the plates 5.6 inches in diameter,with the flat side 4.85 inches. Note theshape of the plates in figures two andthree in the first chapter of this book.

Note: the pipe (shell) WILL NOT beperfectly round, careful measuring(with calipers) will show you an ovalshape. I think this is from storagestacking or some such reason. In anycase, your plates will have to fit on theinside of the thinnest diameter.

Also note: that the pipe has a'tolerance'of a few fractions of aninch, so it may be wider or narrowerthan the nominal specifications.Further note: different manufacturersof the same pipe WILL have slightlydifferent diameters. So it is best to getyour pipe before cutting your masterplate.

You lay your stainless steel sheet outon a large table, then (using a carbidetipped scribe and a long straight edge)you scribe a line across the steel sheet.This line is the height of the plates. Inthis case we scribe a line 4.85 inches(which is the height of the plates) fromthe sheet edge.

Once we've scribed the line, we takeour 'master' plate (make one perfectplate first) set it against the line andscribe out the plate outline for all theplates on that strip, defined by theoriginal scribe line and the edge of thesheet. If you have extra room, leave asmuch space between the plates aspossible, to help with the rough cut.

Cut plates

We cut off the original scribed stripfrom the sheet with the electric sheers.Cutting one way will leave the metalstraighter than cutting the other. Tryboth for yourself and use the best.Don't use hand sheers, they make amess of the steel and it is hard work.

Once the strip is cut off, rough cut allthe plates out of the strip (makesquares). Then cut them out exactly.This is the method that we've found tohome-make the flattest plates.

Straighten plates

An advantage of having the platesprofessionally cut is that you won'thave any wrinkled plates.

But if you cut your own, you may haveto flatten bends or wrinkles in yourplates. Try to do so without hittingthem with a hammer (straighten byhand). A hammer blow causes themetal to stretch at the point of impact,causing a tendency to bulge that is veryhard to remove from the steel.

Lightly hammering on some edgewrinkles should be OK.When finished, every plate should beflat enough that the entire platedisappears behind its edge whenviewed edge-on.

If a plate is too badly bent, working onit more will not straighten it past acertain point. You will have to decideif that point is straight enough or youdiscard the plate. Remember that theplate is held in place around its entireedge (except top) and this holding willhold a slightly bent plate straight.

Degrease plates

There are several good degreasingsolutions. All of them are dangerous.Take extreme care handling thesesolutions. Containers containingsolutions and plates are VERY heavy.Keep solutions in warm but wellventilated area, the gasses that comeoff these mixtures are toxic (smell badtoo).

At this time we just use sulfuric acid of1.26 specific gravity (buy in localautomotive supply store, for use infilling lead acid batteries). We soakedthe freshly cut out plates overnight inthe sulfuric acid, periodicallyseparating the plates with a plasticcomb to assure acid wash everywhere.

When the reaction stopped (makesbubbles and the solution turns dark)we'd take the plates out of the acid(wearing disposable latex gloves) andwash them in fresh water, using abrush to wipe off the oily residue.

It is important to handle the plates onlyby their edges or you'll push the oilright back into the surface of the plate;also brush the oil off the plate surfaceusing a sideways motion, again to


Nominal CPVC Pipe Estimated Estimated Number CenterPipe Outside Through-bolt Through-bolt of to center

Diameter Diameter Circumference Radius Bolts of bolts6" 6.625" 22.100 3.518" 8 2.782"8 8.625 28.574 4.550 10 2.85710 10.750 35.639 5.675 14 2.54512 12.750 42.115 6.706 16 2.632

prevent pushing the oil back into theplate. Brushing the plates while underrunning water is a good idea.

Note: we are still experimenting withvarious degreasing techniques.

Recommended de-grease proceduresby Master-Bond:

1. Sand blast or sand with machinesander to remove surface deposits andto break surface tension. Thenpreliminary degrease withtrichorethylene, then immerse for tenminutes at 70-85C (160-185F) in asolution of;

Sodium metasilicate 2 kg (2 Ib)Tetrasodium pyrophosphate............................................. 1 kg (lIb)Sodium hydroxide 1 kg (lIb)Nansa S 40/S powder............. 300 grams (5 oz)Water 100 liters (10 gal.)

Wash with clean cold water, followedby clean hot water, dry with hot air.

2. Sand blast or sand with machinesander to remove surface deposits andto break surface tension. Thenpreliminary degrease withtrichorethylene, then immerse for tenminutes at 85-90C (185-195F) in asolution of;Oxalic acid 9.25 kg (18.5 Ib)Sulfuric acid (S.G. 1.82)....................................... 5 liters (l gal.)Water 75 liters (15 gal.)Wash with clean cold water, brush offblack deposit, followed by clean hotwater, dry with hot air.

3. Sand blast or sand with machinesander to remove surface deposits andto break surface tension. Thenpreliminary degrease withtrichorethylene, then immerse forfifteen minutes at 50C (120F) in asolution of;Sodium bichromate (sat. sol.)............................. 0.35 liters (0.35 gal.)Sulfuric acid (S.G. 1.82)................................... 10 liters (10 gal.)Wash with clean cold running water,brush off black deposit, dry with hotair.

Note: Preparation of saturatedsolution of Sodium bichromate: Heatthe appropriate quantity of distilledwater to 50C (l20F). Add, withstirring, powdered sodium bichromateuntil it ceases to dissolve. Allow tocool to room temperature and thenstand for one hour before pouring offsaturated solution.

Mixing procedure: Add the sulfuricacid to the saturated sodiumbichromate solution in a slow steadystream while continuously stirring.The precipitate formed will mostlydissolve as the acid is added.

Holes in plates

Fluid equalization holes in the platesare not recommended. Ourexperimentation has shown severalproblems that make this a bad idea.We achieve fluid equalization bytipping the electrolyzer.

We would put fluid equalization holesin the plates of very large electrolyzersthat will also have automaticpressurized water filling.

But in small portable electrolyzers, it isNOT a good idea. Some of the manyreasons include and are not limited to;1) the loss in efficiency as electrolyte'shorts'through the plate, 2) the loss ofefficiency as a significant area aroundthe hole doesn't produce gas, 3) thepossibility of one end of theelectrolyzer becoming flooded if theelectrolyzer is not perfectly level, 4)and the other end of the electrolyzerhaving too little solution for the samereason.

End Plates

The pressure inside an electrolyzerpushes outward by the force in pounds

per square inch times the square inchesof end plate exposed to the gas.

All plastic end plates are 3/4 inchCPVC plastic.

Below is a chart of the total force ofthe end plates pushing against thethrough-bolts at an operating pressureof 70 psi:

Electrolyzer Force on through-bolts

6" 3,690 pounds force8" 6,390 pounds force

10" 9,890 pounds force12" 14,225 pounds force

This is why we use iron re-enforcingplates over the plastic end plates. Theflat plastic could not hold thesepressures by itself. And the steelallows a safety range.

The round shell has no trouble at thesepressures; but you can see that asudden pressure increase would burstan electrolyzer of this design. We havedesigned the electrolyzer so that therewill be no sudden increases in pressurein the electrolyzer, even under backfireIF your Bubbler tank is designedproperly and used properly.

These pressures are also why we useprogressively larger through-bolts tohold the end plates onto theelectrolyzer. Check out under'Through-bolts' .

The thickness of the iron end platesvaries with the diameter of theelectrolyzer:Diameter Thickness of plateSix inch 1/8 inchEight inch 1/4 inchTen inch '" 3/8 inchTwelve inch 1/2 inch

Brown's Gas, Book 2/ www.eagle-research.com13

To discover the measurements neededfor your endplate dimensions and forhole placement, see below:

You will measure the outer diameter ofyour plastic shell, add the diameter ofONE of your through-bolts, add a1116" (for 1132" clearance betweenshell and bolts, mostly to allow for theoval shape of the pipe) and this will bethe centerline diameter of yourthrough-bolt holes (check with size ofthrough-bolts later in this chapter).Then you add 2.5 inches (for flangewidth) to get the square outsidedimensions of the end plates(remember you need two iron and twoplastic of this size).

After you've cut out the four squares(two iron and two plastic), take one ofthe iron plates, scribe and center-punchthe appropriate spots to drill yourholes. It helps to use machinists bluingor masking tape where you aremarking.

You find the center of a square byscribing from comer to opposite comer(450 angle), center-punch this spot tohold one end of your compass. Setyour compass with the radius (112 thecenterline diameter) of your through-bolts (it helps to make a bit of a linefirst and measure it with a ruler tomake sure your compass is set right).

You want a through-bolt to go throughabout every 2.5 inches on yourthrough-bolt circumference. We putseveral bolts around the circumferenceto have an even pressure on the gasket(helps to seal) and to spread the endplate pressure to several points (helpsprevent warping).

The 'cage'of bolts also breaks up theplastic pieces if you happen to burstyour electrolyzer, thus only smallerpieces of plastic fly. They still hurtwhen they hit you.

You do NOT want a through-bolt to gothrough dead center of the top (12:o'clock position) because this is whereyour gas-out tube will go (in about themiddle of the shell, not the end plate).

So space your bolts so that you have aspace at the 12 o'clock position.

Below find a typical chart of CPVCpipe specifications:Select the number of bolts you want touse and divide your through-boltcircumference (found by multiplyingthe through-bolt diameter times 3.14)by that number of bolts (as per theabove chart). Set your compass forthat exact measurement (Center tocenter of bolts). The above chart is anestimate only, your pipe may beslightly larger or smaller than thediameter indicated. So be sure to doyour own measuring and figuring asper these instructions.

Proceed to mark intervals around yourthrough-bolt circumference with yourcompass, where you want yourthrough-bolts to be. Remember NOTto put a bolt through at the top, spaceyour bolts so 12: o'clock position is inthe middle of a space. Center punchthe intervals.

Assembly Tip: It helps to clamp bothyour steel end plates and your plasticend plates in a sandwich (two plasticplates between the iron ones) beforeyou start to drill the holes; then youonly have to mark one plate and drillonly one set of holes (and all the holeswill line up perfectly).

I advise to use a drill-press wheneverpossible. Remember to wear glovesand goggles. Always clamp your workto the press before drilling. Make surethe drill bit won't drill into your press-table. Set the press to the appropriatespeed for the bit you are using.

Assembly Tip: Pre-drill all your holeswith a smaller drill bit that is about thesize of the web on the tip of yourlarger drill bits. Holes up to 114 inchdon't require pre-drilling.

Drill the center hole for your power-bolt size. Drill the through-bolt holes.

Note: I recommend two 3/8" power-bolts through each endplate for anyamperage greater than 30 amps. Or thebolt will get too hot and melt your

plastic. Be sure to silver-solder bothpower-bolts to the SS endplate. In anycase it is a good idea to use more thanone bolt whenever you expect to havehigher amperage.

Remember that the power-bolts don'thave to be in the center; you can havethem anywhere it is convenient foryou.

Pre-drill the holes for the sight tube;don't go all the way through the firstplastic (don't drill into the secondplastic plate with these holes) unlessyou want to have sight tubes on bothends of the electrolyzer. Note that thesight tube holes are off-set so that youhave room for a curve in the hose, or(in the larger endplates) so the clearsight tube will miss the center bolt.

Center power-bolts for six inch are 1/4inch in diameter, eight inchelectrolyzers are 5/16 inch in diameter.Ten inch electrolyzers should have 3/8"power-bolts. Twelve inch electrolyzersshould have two 3/8" power-bolts (ormore of smaller bolts).

I repeat Note: I recommend two 3/8"power-bolts through the endplate forany amperage greater than 30 amps.Or the bolt will get too hot and meltyour plastic. Be sure to silver-solderboth power-bolts to the SS endplate.

The a-rings around the center boltscan be compressed to 113 of theirdiameter. Use about 50 hardnessEPDM material for the a-ring. Drillthe appropriate sized counter-sink inboth sides of the plastic endplates. Thea-ring will make an oval, about 113wider than it's original diameter; soyou need to make the counter-sink a bitdeeper than that; NO MORE!!!!!. Thewasher on one side and the plasticspacer on the other will hold the 0-rings in place.

To give an example of the countersinkhole size: Assuming a 5/16 SS bolt thatwe are sealing with 118" O-rings. TheO-ring is normally a fraction less than5/16" ID (0.309"). 118" (0.130) less30% equals 0.09. 0.309 + 0.09 + 0.09= 0.48 inches. Find a drill bit


Bolt BoltElectrolyzer size length

6" 1/4" 2-1/8"8" 5/16" 2-1/4"

10" 3/8" 2-3/8"12" 2 x 3/8" 2-1/2"

Now drill the appropriate holes in theappropriate iron and plastic end platesfor the sight tube assembly. Youpreviously pre-drilled these holes.

The plastic end plate (for the liquidlevel tubes) will be threaded to 1/8"NPT; so use an 'R'drilI.

The iron end plate will be drilled (orcut) out to allow at least 1/4 inch spacearound the 1/8" pipe stem (about 1inch total); to allow an insulatingspacer to be inserted (the fittings willbe in contact with electrolyte and willcarry a charge).

Six inch electrolyzers can use a 1/4"bolt, 2-1/8" long.Eight inch electrolyzer should have5/16" bolt, 2-1/4" long.Ten inch electrolyzers use 3/8" bolts,2-3/8" long.Twelve inch electrolyzers use two 3/8"bolts, 2-1/2" long.

Different sized electrolyzers shouldhave different sized power-bolts.Power-bolts are stainless steel (SS) andyou'll use SS washers and nuts too.The size of the power bolts has to dowith the amount of power required toflow through the bolts without heatingthem up.

center-bolt). Example:6" electrolyzer has 1/4" power-boltwhich requires a 3/4" hole in the IRONend plate for the insulating spacer.

Fig. 4

Liquid leveltubes, 1/8NPT, copper. ---- ::::;::;:~

Cut tip angles: These are the flatspots that assure you've tipped over to45 for electrolyzer filling. You willcut one bottom comer of the iron platesoff. Which bottom comer is important;you may have some preference as towhich way your electrolyzer will tip inyour shop.Cut the comers off the steel plates witha cutting torch. I cut so that thedistance from the shell to the floorwould be the same when theelectrolyzer was rolled 45. Withheavier electrolyzers (10 and 12 inch)it helps to SLIGHTLY round theresulting comer to assist the rolling.

Assembly Tip: Take extracare to mark all your platesfor their direction andorientation before un-clamping them after drilling. There areseveral very important reasons for this.Your holes will not be exact and thiswill assure that they always line up.Also it is VITAL to make sure theendplate 'tip'angles are cut correctly.

Assembly tip: Use a drillpress when drilling a shallowhole in plastic so you cancontrol the exact depth of thehole (set the depth stop).Fasten the plastic securely tothe press table so that thedrill won't suck it up.

extremely close to 0.48inches. Drill to a depth of0.18 inches (0.13 + 0.04 +0.01).

1/8" EPDM O-rings around SS bolt

Uquid level tube

Notice that the liquid level tube is 'off-set', meaning that the two holes goinginto the electrolyzer end-plate are noton the center line. This is toaccommodate the length of the copperfittings and still allow the liquid levelto be visible.

We fasten Tees (liS" FNPT to FNPT toMNPT on run) on the copper tubes(liS" NPT) coming through theelectrolyzer end-plate. Then we putbarbed fittings (liS" MNPT to 114"barbed) on the Tee's to install the leveltube. We put liS" valves stickingstraight out on the 'run'of the Tee.These valves assist filling and drainingof the electrolyzer.

This arrangement allows us to positionthe clear hose in a 'C'(or reverse C)around the center bolt. Allowing us aclear reading of the electrolyte level inthe smaller electrolyzers. Otherwisethe barbed hose fitting would becovering the spot where the liquid levelshould be.

Note that I use clear braided PVC hosefor the sight tube. I choose thisbecause it is compatible with thesodium hydroxide and has a reasonablepressure rating. The hose does need tobe replaced every so often, you'llknow when.

We have found it extremely helpful toput a small dark plastic floating ballinside the PVC sight tubes(electrolyzer and bubbler). We makeour own ball by heating a bit of darkHDPE (hot air gun) and rolling it into aball. The ball must be big enough tonot go through the copper fittings butsmall enough to travel easily throughthe hose.

In the larger electrolyzers (ten andtwelve), you can just run the sight tubestraight down. This is helpful to thefloating ball, because there won't be abend (kink or flattened spot) that tendsto catch the ball.

End gaskets

Note: if you are not clean aboutbuilding and filling the electrolyzerand/or if you use components orsealing materials that are notcompatible with the sodium hydroxide,then you'll get FOAMING. The foamis un-desirable because it 'shorts out'the plates as the electricity travels onthe foam instead of through the plate-pack (causing wasted electricity). Andthe gas flow carries the foam up intothe Bubbler, through the bubbler andout to the torch, where it contaminatesthe flame (causes it to tum yellow).

We cut a round circle of lISth inchthick Neoprene or EPDM 'rubber'.The circle to fit past the edges of theshell. We cut the holes for the centerwasher, fittings and (if we make it thatwide) through-bolts with regular gaskethole punches.

End Plate Assembling

Note that in this sketch I've shownhow to get the power into and out ofthe series cell. I put the electrical inputunder the electrolyte. You can put thebolt anywhere under the electrolyte; Ijust find it convenient to put it in thecenter of the electrolyzer.

The two end plates have a hole in themto accept a stainless steel bolt. Wethen silver solder the SS bolt to the SSplate to assure a long term surecontact.

The stainless steel bolt extends throughthe electrolyzer end plates and theelectrical wires are attached to them.

Stack SS washer/s between the SSplate and the plastic end-plate; the SSwashers to be the same thickness as theliS" thick end-gasket. This willprevent the SS plate from becomingwarped as it is bolted.

The two electrolyzer end-plates aretotally assembled before they arebolted onto the CPVC pipe.

You can use a sight tube to monitor theliquid level in the electrolyzer. A

commercial BG electrolyzer wouldhave automatic liquid level monitorand shut down. It can be built onexactly the same circuit design as theautomatic liquid level control for thebubbler, shown elsewhere.

The SS plate on the 'sight tube' end-plate assembly needs an additional holedrilled in the stainless steel plate.

Plastic cap on SS bolt

The stainless steel bolt head is coveredby a piece of plastic to prevent the boltfrom participating in the electrolysis.The piece of plastic covering the bolt isjust thick enough to just reach the nextplate, which holds the plastic cover inplace (the plastic cover is there toprevent the bolt from participating inthe electrolysis process). Make theplastic bolt covers from CPVC scrap.

Initial cut long shell

For the electrolyzer shell; I've usedPVC pipe and been happy with it, it'sless expensive, more readily available,comes in all the same sizes as CPVC;BUT it can only go to 120F before itis too hot to handle the pressure in theelectrolyzer. CPVC can go to 160Fbefore it is too hot.

I choose schedule SO CPVC pipe forthe outer wall of the electrolyzerbecause I want the strength and theability to handle a higher temperaturethan regular PVC pipe.

Cut the pipe on the same jig you builtto cut the rings. When cutting theelectrolyzer pipe to length, cut it a littlelong at first; because your rings andplates may not measure EXACTLY asyou figure and even a small error addsup when multiplied over a hundredtimes.

Later you'll finish trim the shell afterthe plates and rings are inserted intothe shell.

Note: Instead of cutting the shell, youcan just add or subtract a ring/platecombination or two, it will make littledifference to the actual result. Don't


put in a thinner ring to make the shellthe right length. I do not recommendhaving a thin cell because it will use upit's liquid quicker than the others,causing problems. It's OK to have aTHICKER ring for one or two cells,just so the end cell is the proper 3/8inch wide, so that the liquid levelindicator (sight tube for sure, andelectronic sensors if used) will bemeasuring a representative liquid level.

Assemble rings & plates into tube

I've found that the plates and spacersdo not need to be glued in place.Friction holds them in place quite well.Just be sure they are each tight as yougo, because it is hard to tighten themlater.

In long electrolyzers, I insert the platesand spacer rings into the tube from thecenter out, this means I only have toreach in from both sides only half waydown the tube. Be sure to make a jigto fill the bottom half of the tube whileyou fill the top half (round woodenplate mounted on a 2x4) so that yourplates and spacers remain square to thetube. Make your jig so that you cansee past it on the top, so that you canshine a light in the bottom of the tubeso that you can see to line up the platesexactly (all flat tops exactly lined up).

In longer electrolyzers I've had tomake a 'plunger' jig to push thespacers down (plastic or wood disk ona rod). And wrap the end of anotherrod with sticky tape (regular tapeturned backwards) so that I could insertit to move the plates around.

Final long shell cut

For the finish trim, cut the shell so thatyou actually have the end most ringsticking out of the electrolyzer 1/8 to1/4 inch. The through-bolts willcompress the rings into the shell andtighten everything up.

Assembly tip: You will want to removea few of the rings and plates when youmake the final cut to length, so that thesaw doesn't cut any of the rings orplates.

Assembly tip: Insert a round piece ofcardboard into the shell after removingsome of the plates/rings and before youcut the pipe, to keep the plastic dustfrom getting into your electrolyzer.

Remember to figure so that the endcells will be just as wide as all thecenter cells; this will allow accurategauging of the center cells fluid levelby monitoring the end cell with thesight tube. It's OK to have a couple ofthe center cells a bit wider, if needed tomake the shell the right length withouthaving to cut it.

Put end caps on

By this time you've made andassembled the end caps. Putting themon will seem pretty easy after all that.It takes time to manufacture somethingcorrectly, but once done you'll be ableto assemble and dis-assemble theelectrolyzer quickly.

To assemble, put some of the lowerthrough-bolts in place, running throughthe end plates. Assembling around theelectrolyzer or setting the electrolyzerin the 'basket'formed by the bolts.

Tighten the through-bolts evenly,taking care to see that the SS endplates actually go inside the shell. Youcan loosen and tighten the bolts asoften as you wish.

Through-bolts

I bought my iron rods at a local ironsupply dealer. The rods are bought intwenty foot lengths. They rough cutthem so that they fit in my car. I stillneeded to do the final trim after I knewthe exact length of my electrolyzer.

The diameter of the through-bolts isimportant because of the amount ofpressure these bolts are required tohandle.

They don't have to be huge, becausewe use several of them around thecircumference of the shell.

The following is a guide to theappropriate through-bolt diameters:

Pipe diameter Bolt diametersix inch 5/16 incheight inch 3/8 inchten inch 1/2 inchtwelve inch 9/16 inch

Once you know the length of your totalassembly (shell and endplates), youcan cut your through-bolt rods tolength. Give yourself at least an inchon both ends past the total length of theelectrolyzer. This will allow easyassembly and allow the addition of'carrying'brackets if you want them.

Tighten the through-bolts fairly lightlyand evenly. You don't want to cut yourgasket material or crush theelectrolyzer shell. The recommendedthrough-bolt torque specifications(based on electrolyzer design aspreviously discussed) are:six inch about 6 ftllbseight inch about 8 ftilbsten inch about 10 ftllbstwelve" about 12 ftllbs

The through-bolts can exerttremendous pressure on the plate-packand electrolyzer shell. If your plate-pack sticks out of the shell a bit, thethrough-bolts will compress them intothe shell.

If you eventually notice a leak, in theend plate shell gasket, just tighten thebolts a bit more. You may find thatthey were loose, which can happen ifyou over-heat your electr

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