14 mount-everest-dingri

336

description

W ô - ¤ ô - J À P -¤ º Û - z Þ - w ñ G ü Vz-ÆÛ h -z®ô m -qºÛ - ¾ô - Mã Å -hï z -yï P .ü 14 Wô - ¤ô - JÀ P -¤ºÛ - zÞ - yâ G zô h -ˆÛ - hGÝ - zTß - GÅÞ ¤ -¾Å-ºGÝ ¾ -±ô G Å-qü Vz-ÆÛ h -z®ô m -qºÛ - ¾ô - Mã Å -hï z -yï P -ü 14 „À ô - z¸P-z=-ÁÛ Å ü ¯ô ¤ -OÛ G -qü

Transcript of 14 mount-everest-dingri

Page 1: 14 mount-everest-dingri

Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-wñGüWô-¤

ô-JÀP-¤

ºÛ-zÞ-w

ñGü

Vz-ÆÛh-z®ôm-qºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-hïz-yïP.ü 14

Page 2: 14 mount-everest-dingri

Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

Page 3: 14 mount-everest-dingri
Page 4: 14 mount-everest-dingri

Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¯ô¤-OÛG-qü

„Àô-z¸P-z=-ÁÛÅü

zôh- Û̂-hGÝ-zTß-GÅÞ¤-¾Å-ºGݾ-±ôGÅ-qü

Vz-ÆÛh-z®ôm-qºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-hïz-yïP-ü 14

Page 5: 14 mount-everest-dingri

Gu-Chu-Sum Book

Published by the Gu-Chu-Sum Movement of Tibet(Ex-political Prisoners’ Association)Jogibara Road, P.O.McLeod GanjDharamsala-176219 H.P. India

www.guchusum.org

Biography of an activist. Vol 14

The Son of Mount EverestBiography of Dingri NgawangEdited by Lobsang TashiCover and Design: Sonam TsewangCopyright © Gu-Chu-Sum Movement of Tibet

First edition 500 copies, 2007

All rights reserved. No part of this bookmaybe reproduced by any means withoutprior written permission from the publisher.

Printed at Indraprastha Press (CBT), New Delhi

Page 6: 14 mount-everest-dingri
Page 7: 14 mount-everest-dingri

ym-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-ü

Page 8: 14 mount-everest-dingri

h;¼-VG

hq¾-¿km-Ç+Ý-ÇKï¼-»ÛG-±P-mÅ-°¾-zºÛ-Vïh-zXôhü ¯ô¤-OÛG-qºÛ-JÀïP-zXôhü GTÛG q¼-Cæm-Gž-zÁhü zMhü

hP-qôü Wô-¤ô-GPÅ-h;¼-¼ÛºÛ-Zï-ºhzÅ-̂ Û-EÛ¤-Mãhü ------------------ 01GZÛÅ-qü ¾ô-zTß-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-hÐ-yâG-h¤G-¾-ŸÝGÅ-qü ---------------- 10GÅÞ¤-qü ºE¤-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü ---------------------------------------------------------- 20zŸÛ-qü T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-¤fº-¤ºÛ-¾ô-MãÅü -------------------------- 46¿S-qü Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ˆÛ-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG- zBzÅ-qü ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 57iâG-qü G®P-DÞ¾-HÛ-IGÅ-Tm-z®ôm-DP-GÅÞ¤- ºIÛ¤Å-qü ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 79zhÝm-qü hzÞÅ-mÅ-Á¼-hÝ-FÛh-qü ------------------------------------------------------ 90

Page 9: 14 mount-everest-dingri

zMh-qü Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü ------------------------------------------------------------- 102hGÝ-qü GÅP-z-ÆâP-Vïh-hqº-zô-hGÝ-¼P-ÆôG-hô¼-zü ---------------- 126zTß-qü zôh-¤Û-zTß-hGݺÛ-ÆôG-Áô¼-zü ----------------------------------------------- 141zTß-GTÛG ¾ïm-qºô-Å-¾-¿ËàP-z-hP-ü ŸÛP-¾Å-b-=ï-¾- ÇÀôz-¢ôP-ü ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 152zTß-GZÛÅü ¿Ë-Å-z-zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤-hP-ü P¤-¼ÛP- hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼ü ---------------------------------------------------- 160zTß-GÅÞ¤ü PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇkÝ-¾-Zïü --------------------------------------- 167zTß-zŸÛü =ºô-»Û-XïÅ-ÅÞ-¤ºô-ÁÛ-zü ---------------------------------------------------- 190zTô-¿Sü zÁÝ-GŸôG-hP-ü ¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-h‚ï-º‚ïhü ------------------------------ 200zTß-iâG ÆÛh-WâÅ-z¸P-hÝ-zbP-»P-ü z®m-M¾-HÛ- Pô-zô-¼P-Åô¼-GmÅü ------------------------------------------------------------- 208zTß-zhÝmü º²¤-JÀÛP-mP-Ç+h-IGÅ-»ôh-qºÛ- bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-¯ô¤-»ÛG -------------------------------------- 217zTô-zMhü Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-μôP-z¸ÞP-Ço¼- Gm¤-»ÛG-G»ÞGÅ-qü ---------------------------------------------------- 223zTß-hGÝü ¤Û-¾ô-ZÛ-ÁÝ-¯-GTÛG-XïÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ-º‚ô¼-zü --------------- 228

Page 10: 14 mount-everest-dingri

ZÛ-ÁÝü GTïm-GTßP-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-PºÛ-„Àô-Ço- ºwGÅ-»Þ¾-hÝ-iPÅ-qü ------------------------------------------------- 243Zï¼-GTÛG z®m-‚ô¾-HÛ-±ô¼-ÇoP.ü ---------------------------------------------------- 250Zï¼-GZÛÅü ¤WâG-zÇkÝ-zºÛ-Gb¤-hP-fÞGÅ-Xï-Vï-ŸÝü ----------------- 255

Þ̧¼-Mmü

hP-qôü zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-qôºÛ-h¤G-hqÞP-GÛ-¾ô-MãÅü ------------------- 261GZÛÅ-qü M-GŸÝP-GÛ-GhÝG-¯çz-ºôG-±ï-ÆôG-Áô¼-zºÛ- zôh-¤ÛºÛ-¤ÛP-GŸÝP-ü -------------------------------------------------------- 294

Page 11: 14 mount-everest-dingri
Page 12: 14 mount-everest-dingri

¯ô¤-OÛG-qºÛ-JÀ ïP-zXôhü GTÛG

¯ô¤-OÛG-qºÛ-JÀïP-zXôhü

hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-¾GÅ-̂ Û-¤±m-zhG-GÛÅ-fôÅ-mÅ-h-z¼-¾ô-GTÛG-¿ËG-®¤-¾Å-ºhÅ-¤ïh-q-hP-ü Ç+zÅ-hï-mÛ-uÛ-¾ô- 2005 ¹- 7q¼-zhG-GÛ-M¾- ï̄-z-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛh-¾GÅ- Û̂-¾ô-MãÅ-ƒÛÅ-Ç+zÅü Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛh-¾GÅ-¾-&GôP-Å-¤VôG-GÛ-Ç+Ý-q¼-Z¼-zºÛ-mG-ZïÅ-z®ßGÅ-hÝÅü hÛP-¼ÛºÛ-Í-Tô-PG-hzP-hP-DôP-GZÛÅ-ºƒï¾-z-»ôh-Ç+ô¼-hP-ü ¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛh-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-GhïPÅ-±ôh-È-TP-Vïm-qô-¤²h-qºÛ-Í-Tô-PG-hzP-ŸïÅ-q-zhG-GÛÅ-ÅÞ-ŸÛG-»Ûm-m¤-lj¤ü

¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛh-¾GÅ-hP-ym-zIô-JÀïP-»P-mÅ-»P-hÝ-±ßGÅ-Ç+zÅ-VzÅ-TÛG-DôP-GÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-hP-ºƒ¾-fzÅ-¤ïh-q-hÛP-¼Û-Í-Tô-PG-hzP-GÛ-Ç+ô¼-»P-»P-ºyôÅ-¤ô¾-‚ãP-ü hï¼-zdïm-Å-zTh-zTß-q¼-&GôP-Å-¤VôG-GÛ-Ç+Ý-q¼-¾Åü P-hP-Í-Tô-PG-hzP-¾-h;º-P¾-ºyh-qü ŸïÅ-q-ºGô-zXôh-hÝ-z;ôhü

Ç+zÅ-¼ï-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛh-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-ym-¾-Í-Tô-PG-hzP-GÛ-hqº-¾-¤²PÅ-ÁÛP-GŸm-wm-‚¤Å-Åï¤Å-Vï-zºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-ljm-qô-¼ï-

Page 13: 14 mount-everest-dingri

GZÛÅü ¯ô¤-OÛG-qºÛ-JÀ ïP-zXôhü

ºVhü hqï¼-mü Í-Tô-PG-hzP-mÛü h;º-P¾-hP-Zïm-D¼-ºfz-IôGÅ-n¤Å-ˆÛ-ÇSôm-hÝ-fôm-mÅ-¼P-ZÛh-TÛG-qÞÅ-h;º-P¾-Eh-Åh-‚ïh-¤Dm-ŸÛG-¼ïhü M-¾Å- Û̂Å-¼P-¼ÛGÅ-z®ôm-q¼-¤m¼-GTôh-GbôP-Ç+zÅ-Í-Tô-PG-hzP-¼P-zŸÛm-HÛÅ-±ßGÅ-¤-fÞz-q¼-Bôz-fzÅ-‚ïh- Û̂-¼ïhü TïÅ-hP-ü ̧ Å-GôÅ-TßP-¸h-»ôh-q-n¤Å-h;º-P¾-Tm-HÛ-ºfz-IôGÅ-n¤Å-¾-vôh-q-hP-¼P-ZÛh-¿eôGÅ-IP-GÛ-h;º-P¾-¾-ÇoP-z-GbôP-GÛ-¤-¼ïhüz®ôm-¼-G-q¼-»Ûm-»P-z®ôm-q-±P-¤Å-hÛP-¼Û-Í-Tô-PG-hzP-ŸïÅ-»Ûh-VïÅ-¾ÛP-ºGï¾-‚ïh-AP-¼ïhü P-Íï-¤-ÇKP-z®ôm-¼¼-GbôP-Ç+zÅ-hï-hÝÅ-Í-Tô-PG-hzP-n-G»Þ-zbGÅ-ÁÛP-¿UP-¾ô-zMz-qºÛ-wô-GŸôm-ÇeG-Lôh-ºi-z-ŸÛG-ºhÝG TïÅ-q-mÛ-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛh-¾GÅ-ˆÛ-¾m-TÛG-¤Ûm-qºÛ-GÅÞP-¼ïhü

ym-HÛÅ-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛh-¾GÅ-¾-Í-Tô-PG-hzP-GÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-hïz-»ôh-¤ïh-Ç+h-V-iÛÅü uÛ-¾ô- 1982 ¾ô-mÅ-DôP-GÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-ƒÛÅ-mÅ-¾Å-DÞPÅ-G-Gï-¤ô¼-hïz-Cæm-Vïh-wÞ¾-»P-ü hïz-z¸ô-Mã-¤ïh-q¼-¤-hqï-»P-z½ÀGÅ-q-¼ïhü TïÅ-„Àô-w¤-HÛ-n¤-ºHã¼-PP-ü ¤Þ-¤fÞh-hïP-hÝÅ-DôP-mÅ-»P-zB¼-ºzh-qÅ-hïz-z¸ô-zŸÛm-»P-¯ô¤-OÛG-Ç+ô¼-h;º-P¾-ºyh-Ç+ô¼-GÅÞPÅ-‚ãP-zÅü ym-HÛÅ-hï-¿e¼-»Ûm-mü ºhÛ-GºÛ-hïz-DôPÅ-ºWôG-ºhôh-¤VÛÅ-±ï-±ôGÅ-G®ô-hP-ºƒï¾-z-GmP-m-GÝÅ-

Page 14: 14 mount-everest-dingri

¯ô¤-OÛG-qºÛ-JÀ ïP-zXôhü GÅÞ¤ü

qÅ-ºGô-z®ßGÅ-mÅ-¤WâG-OÛ¾-z-ŸÝÅ-VôG-qÅü Eïh-ˆÛÅ-DôP-¾-hï-hôm-GÅÞPÅ-¼ôGÅ-GmôPÅ-ŸïÅ-ŸÝÅ-q-»Ûmü

fôG-¤ºÛ-ºƒï¾-z-hï-ºiºÛ-fôG-mÅ-PÅ-fïPÅ-hP-qô¼-DôP-¤W¾-Ç+zÅ-ÇeôzÅ-hP-¿km-qºÛ-¾ÞÅ-¾-ºôG-ºWâG-h¤¼-ǨäG-TÛG-hP-ü hzÞ-¾-M-G¼-ŸÐ-¤ô-VßP-PÞ-ŸÛG-Hôm-ŸÛP-ü h-hÝP-l-¼¤-Å-¾ºÛ-V¼-hÝÅ-ˆÛ-¤Û-n¤Å- Û̂-PP-±ß¾-¿e¼-¾G-bà-V¼-GhÝGÅ-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-ˆP-zÇo¤Å-ºhÝGPºÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-DôP-¾ô-¿S-zTß-®¤-¤Ûm-m¤-lj¤-q-hP-ü w¼-z¿eÅ-±ôh-mÅ-¤Vß-hP-G¸ïPÅ-¤fô-zºÛ-nü ǨÛm-¤-ÇeàG-TÛP-¤ÛG-ºƒÅ-Vï-zºÛ-DôP-GÛ-zŸÛm-mÅ-P-¾-ÇtôzÅ-Z¤Å-ˆÛ-ÇoP-z-ŸÛG-¢Ûm-‚ãP-ü PºÛ-ÁG-ºhô¤-GP-Iâ-zŸÛ¼-hï-ZÛm-DôP-um-iPÅ-¤ïh-ˆP-ÇKô-ºI¤-P-GZÛÅ-Ç+¼-¤-¿S-®¤-JÀïP-¤ô¾-zHÛÅü

uÛ-¾ô- 2006 ¹- 7 ±ïÅ- 3 ZÛm-DôP-GÛÅ-¤-¸Ûm-ÁôG78 hï-ym-HÛÅ-fïPÅ-hP-qô¼-z>ÀGÅ-bï-zŤÅ-GŸÛGÅ-mm-®¤-‚Åü ¾ô-MãÅ-ˆÛ-Mã-V-¾ïGÅ-ˆP-ü ±ÛG-¢ô¼-¯-z-mÅ-V-ljô¤-¤ïh-qü Vh-¿ËG-¤P-ŸÛP-ÇS-xÛ-Gô-¿kôG-qü ¿ËG-q¼-Ç+zÅ-ºG¼-¯-Vh-ÅôP-z-»P-ºGº-ŸÛG-ºhÝG-qü ¤-¸Ûm->ÀôG-GÛm-ºGô-mÅ-¤WâG-z¼-DôP-¾-zT¼-ºiÛ-ŸÝ-Mã¼-fG-zTh-hï-¹-z-hïºÛ-±ïÅ- 7 ZÛm-DôP-Ghm-iPÅ-mÅ-¤-¸Ûm-GŸÛ-¾-zŸG-Çeïü Ç+zÅ-¼ï-iÛ-zºÛ-±ß¾-hP-ü Ç+zÅ-

Page 15: 14 mount-everest-dingri

zŸÛü ¯ô¤-OÛG-qºÛ-JÀ ïP-zXôhü

¼ï-JÀïP-¤ô¾-HÛ-±ß¾-zTÅ-ˆÛ-Mã-V-D-zÇ+PÅ-ÁÛP-ü ¹ôÅ-Bôm-n¤Å-zž-mÅ-Oô¤-GŸÛ-V-±P-z-ŸÛG-z¸ôÅü ¤Û-ÇoºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-Ço-¼ïÅ-¤-¤f¼-uÛ-±ôGÅ-ˆÛ-ÇoP-±ß¾-¼ï-¢Ûm-PïÅ-qÅ-¾ï-±m-GÅÞ¤-q-Gż-hÝ-zÇom-ŸÛP-ü »P-zB¼-ºGô-mÅ-mG-qô-ºƒâ-zÁï¼-HÛÅ-±ÛG-hôm-GZÛÅ-;-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-hïh-mÅ-±ÛG-¢ô¼-hP-ü ÇS-xÛ-Gô-º²ô¾-z-n¤Å-OÛG-GÛm-Å-zTh-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-z;ôhü

P-GZÛÅ-¾ô-MãÅ-¾-zB¼-ŸÛz-¼Û¤-q¼-‚Åü DôP-mÛ-Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-¼Û-GÁ¤-hÝ-¿eï-FG-ºwôÅ-qºÛ-zÞ-yâG-z¸P-qô-ŸÛG-hP-ü zôh-GPÅ-Tm-qºÛ-hqº-zô-ŸÛG-»Ûm-q-ÁïÅ-‚ãP-zÅü zhG-GÛ-„Àô-Ço-hzP-¤ïh-DôP-GÛ-¤Û-±ï-ÉÛ¾-qôºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-ˆÛÅ-iPÅ-bïü hïz-¤ÛP-¾-Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG-TïÅ-GÅô¾-z-hP-ü ºhÛ-¿e-zÞºÛ-¤Û-Ço-ŸÛG-¾-¾ô-MãÅ-V-»ôPÅ-ÅÞ-μôGÅ-q-ŸÛG-¤-z;ôh-m-ºIÛG-¤-ÅôP-lj¤-mÅü DôP-¾-hÝÅ-±ôh-WÛ-®¤-ºGô¼-»P-Eïh- Û̂-¾ô-MãÅ-V-±P-ºDôh-fÞz-q-ŸÛG-TÛ-mÅ-ˆP-‚-Mã-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-Åï¤Å-±ô¼-MÅ-qºÛ-PP-ŸÝ-Ç+zÅü DôP-GÛÅ-ljÛP-hôm-¾Å-VßP-hÝÅ-ˆÛ-zG-¤ïh-uôh-±ß¾-ÅôGÅ-z;ôh-ˆÛ-¤Ûm-ŸïÅ-fG-Vôh-qôÅ-¾m-zbz-qÅü ¤ï-¿e¼-ºDô¾-zºÛ-zhG-GÛ-Åï¤Å-±ô¼-¾-Vß-zbz-q-zŸÛm-ºW¤-fÛP-Pï¼-Hã¼ü

uÛ-¾ô- 1973 z¼-Gmº-Z¤Å-ˆÛ-C-¿UP-¾ô-ºWôG-¤Dm-¤fº-¤-hï-DôP-»Ûm-q-hP-ü ¾ô-hï¼-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛ-h¤-zTº-z®m-qôÅ-¼P-ZÛh-

Page 16: 14 mount-everest-dingri

¯ô¤-OÛG-qºÛ-JÀ ïP-zXôhü ¿S.ü

ºVÛ-¾¤-hÝ-hïh-q-dôGÅ-ˆP-h-hÝP-h¤-zTº-¤Û-GbôP-z-hïÅ-PÅ-ˆP-DôP-¾-ÍÞ-±ßGÅ-ŸÝ-fzÅ-ƒ¾ü

GmÅ-±ß¾-hï¼-zdïm-DôP-‚P-fP-hÝ-Å-ÆâP-¤²h-Ç+zÅ-ÅôGÅ-GŸôm-hÝÅ-ˆÛ-¤²h-uôh-ºGº-hP-ü ¾Å-Nå¼-¼Û¤-q¼-¼P-GÛ-fzÅ-hP-‚ãÅü ÇeôzÅ-ÁÝGÅ-zTÅ-ˆÛÅ-GŸm-iÛP-¤Û-ºWôG-qºÛ-mÝÅ-qü z®m-‚ô¾-hÝ-wïzÅ-mÅ-uÛ-hôm-hP-¿ËG-q¼-¼P-GÛ-º±ô-fzÅ-fh-ºƒÅ-zÞ-¤Û-h¤m-®¤-fôz-±ß¾-zTÅ-¾ô-MãÅ-ºhÛ¼-ºDôh-¤ïhü

¾ô-MãÅ-ºGô-z®ßGÅ-mÅ-¹-z-¿S-hP-ZÛm-zTß-GZÛÅ-ÅôP-XïÅ-¯-zºÛ-V-mÅ-¾ïGÅ-zOæzÅ-¸Ûm-qÅü ¹- 11 ±ïÅ- 15 ZÛm-DôP-¾-¤fº-¤ºÛ-hrh-ŸÛz-Vïh-q¼-ÇÀôG-TÛG-wÞ¾-Ç+zÅü DôP-GÛÅ-xG-GÛÅ-¾ô-MãÅ- Û̂-¤- Û̧m-º²Ûm-mÅ-±ôGÅ-q-hP-Eïh-¼P-GÛ-iÛm-¾Å-h-»G-qô-‚ãP-üh-mÅ-z¸ÞP-¼ï-z-zTô¾-Å-ºhÛ-¾Å-¤ïhü ºhÛ-zŸG-Mã-GTÛG-qÞ-¾Å-¿ËG-¤-ÅôP-ü GÅÞPÅü z;º-¤ô¾-±ÛG-hïÅ-ym-HÛ-ljÛP-¾-G¸m-»P-DôP-GÛÅ-hï-GÅÞPÅ-Ç+zÅ-zŸÛm-¾-Bô-zºÛ-Z¤Å-GP-»P-¤Û-¤Pômü

h-hÝP-P-±ôÅ-GŸôm-BïÅ-¾-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-»G-qô-vh-¤-fÞz-m-±¼-ºhÝG-TïÅ-GÅÞPÅ-Ç+zÅ-PÅ-DôP-GÛ-zŸÛm-¾-G-¾ï¼-¿e-z¼-f¾ü DôP-GÛ-zŸÛm-mÅ-Bô-Z¤Å-ÁÛG-ºV¼-lj¤-»P-DôP-GÛÅ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-GŸôm-BïÅ-¾-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-vôh-fzÅ-hP-GÅô-BôP-‚ïh-ÇePÅ-Ç+ô¼-fzÅ-ºhôm-GmP-

Page 17: 14 mount-everest-dingri

z-¾Åü zŸÛm-¾Å-Bô-Z¤Å-GP-»P-¤Û-Gž-zÅ-ºhÛÅ-mÛ-DôP-„Àô-zG-Tm-ŸÛG-»Ûm-q-ÅÞ-»ÛÅ-zljômü

¬ï-PG-hP-¤ÛG-VßÅ-GŸm-HÛ-¤hÝm-¼P-ZÛh-Z¤-fG-q¼-Cæm-fÞz-ˆP-hïÅ-¼P-GŸm-HÛ-hôm-GP-»P-zOæz-¤Û-fÞzü ÇÀh-¬ï-PG-hP-¤ÛG-Vß-ºhôm-¤-hGôÅ-qºÛ-„Àô-IôÅ-ˆÛ-fzÅ-¯¾-uh-hGôÅ-q-mÛ-¼P-GŸm-HÛ-º±ô-GmÅ-¾-ºGm-ºDÞ¼-zºÛ-‚-fzÅ-¾ïGÅ-ÁôÅ-ÁÛG-¼ïhü hï-¿km-HÛ-BïÅ-zÞ-hï¼-PÅ-m¤-»P-Ǩôm-HÛ-»ôhü ¹-z-hï-®¤-¼ÛP-ºzh-q-‚Å-ºƒÅ-PÅ-Ǩôm-qºÛ-BïÅ-zÞ-hï-fÞGÅ-hHïÅ-qô-‚ãP-ÅôP-z¼ü ym-»P-hï-GÅ-»Ûh-±Û¤Åü h-hÝP-DôP-GÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG-h‚Ûm-»ÛG-mP-Nå¼-zŸÛm-q-¤HôGÅ-¥ã¼-¾ïGÅ-Iâz-PP-ºIô-hôm-MÅ-qºÛ-Ǩôm-ºhÝm-hP-ü ºhÛ-G-±ôGÅ-qºÛ-±ôGÅ-G®ô-;-±-PG-hzP-ºôh-ºz¼-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-¤fº-¤ºÛ-um-ŸÛz-zBPÅ-q-hP-ü h-z¼-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-¤Û-±ïºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ- ô̄¤-OÛG-‚Å-qºÛ-¾ô-ÁÅ-mP-hïz-G Þ̧GÅ-z ô̧-z;ôh-q-IôGÅ-qô-zÅôh-m¤Å-±ï-hzP-

„Àô-z¸P-z=-ÁÛÅ-ˆÛÅuÛ-¾ô- 2006 ¹- 12 ±ïÅ- 27 ¾ü

¯ô¤-OÛG-qºÛ-JÀ ïP-zXôhü zhÝmü

Page 18: 14 mount-everest-dingri

hq¼-Cæm-Gž-zÁhü

º²¤-JÀÛP-Gô-¾ºÛ-ÇeïP-ºzÞ¼-hÝ-fôm-qºÛ-zôh-D-z-GPÅ-Tm-HÛ-¿YôPÅ-ºhÛ-ZÛh-uÛ-¾ôºÛ-ÇSôm-HÛ-¾ô-zM-yG-¿ËG-mÅ-zôh-ˆÛ-VôÅ-hP-¼ÛG-GŸÝP-ü »Þ¾-Gô¤Å-GÁÛÅ-¾ÞGÅü Å-VºÛ-GmÅ-zzÅ-ÅôGÅ-ÇKô-GP-Å-mÅ-¼P-z®m-G®P-¤ºÛ-M¾-Dz-TÛG-»Ûm-q-zljôm-¤ïh-¯ôh-ƒ¾-»Ûm-»P-ü M-mG-GôP-¤-¼Û¤-‚ôm-Ç+zÅ-zôh-M-GZÛÅ-¤Vôh-»ôm-HÛ-ºƒï¾-¾¤-hï-zMãh-zôh-ºhÛ-VïÅ-ÇS-¤ô-ŸÛG-mÅ-M-ºôG-bà-ºEã¼-¤Ûh-GbôP-Åï¤Å-ˆÛ-¼ï-Pm-fzÅ-zM-WâÅ-ÇeôP-‚Å-»ôh-¼ÞP-ü hPôÅ-ÅÞ-uÛ-¾ô- 1949 mÅ-ºGô-z®ßGÅ-ˆÛÅ-¤f¼- 1959 ¾ô¼-M-mG-h¤¼-GŸÝP-mÅ-ŸÛ-zhï-¿ËÛP-ºWGÅ-ÅÞ-GmÅ-qºÛ-zôh-VôÅ-¿km-HÛ-ŸÛP-D¤Å-»ôPÅ-ÅÞ--iG-qôºÛ-z®m-º²â¾-HÛÅ-Gbô¼-zTô¤-ºyôG-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-ÇKô-mÅ-zôh-ˆÛ-M¾-¼zÅ-¾ô-MãÅ-mP-‚ãP-¥ôP-¤ïh-qºÛ-FG-GÛ-ºDô¼-¾ô-zÇ+ô¼ü zôh-¤Û-n¤Å-GŸÛÅ-‚ïÅ-GZÛÅ-ÅÞ-HïÅ-bï-hÝÅ-hï-mÅ-z¸ÞP-zhï-BÛh-ˆÛ-º±ô-z¼-¼ô¾-Mã-¿e-TÛü ºWÛG-dïm-ºhÛ¼-h¥¾-z-¤Þm-mG-GÛ-ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-±h-¾Å-ºhÅ-q-¥PÅ-hGôÅ-‚ãP-z-¼ïhü

q¼-Cæm-Gž-zÁhü zMhü

Page 19: 14 mount-everest-dingri

M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-zôh-mP-fôG-¤¼-z®m-º²â¾-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-zôh-¾-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-‚-MãºÛ-D-G»P-zOGÅ-ˆP-hôm-hPôÅ-fôG-¾ô-Pô-ÇeôP-yG-¤P-qôºÛ-¼ÛP-GÅôG-ºWôG-‚Å-qºÛ-zôh-ˆÛ-VôÅ-ÁïÅ-hq¾-GÅÞ¤-hP-ü »Þ¾-Gô¤Å-GÁÛÅ-¾ÞGÅü ¼P-‚ãP-Bï-hPôÅ-¯Û-ÁÛP-ü Gbï¼-¼ÛGÅ-DG-¤ÛP-GÛ-¿ËG-¤¼-z¸ôÅ-q-¤-¸hü zôh-¤Û-ºzÞ¤-zTß-GZÛÅ-¿ËG-hÝÅ-¤Ûm-Aïm-ºhÅ-ÅÞ-zbP-z-hP-Áݾ-¿ËG-zôh-¤Û-±ô¼-¼ÛG-GmÅ-Gż-zXï- ï̧¼-z-ÅôGÅ-¤ÛP-Ço-±ôGÅ-zbGÅ-mÅ-h-z¼-z®ôm-zTßG-hP-hô-h¤ü ºfz-¯ôh-hP-ÇÀôz-GÅô-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-ZÛm-ºEô¾-»P-¤±m-¤Û-ºEô¾-zºÛ-h;º-ÇkÝG-GÛ-¾ô-¹-hï-hÝÅ-hïP-ÅP-»P-¥ôP-zŸÛm-»ôh-ü

&uÛ-mô¼-&GôP-Å-BzÅ-¤Gôm-Vïm-qô-¤VôG-mÅ-GÅÞ¤-zTߺÛ-hÝÅ-im-fïPÅ- 28 fôG-z°¾-zºÛ-z;º-ÇÀôz-mP-ü hï-ÇS-Åô-Åô-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛ-fôG-¾-GmÅ-±ß¾-¤P-qô-ŸÛG-‚ãP-z-hP-ü hï-zŸÛm-GŸm- ï̧¼-XïÅ-ºƒPÅ-¤-»Ûm-qºÛ-DÞPÅ-¿km-HÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-¼P-GÛÅ-¤fôP-fôÅ-‚ãP-z-hG-±P-¤Å-hô-ÇoP-Vïm-qôÅ-»ÛG-fôG-bà-ºGôh-hGôÅü hï-ºi-¤-‚Å-mü GmÅ-±ß¾-ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-WÛ-ljïh-¼P-fôG-¥PÅ-qºÛ-¤Û-¤P-qô-ŸÛG-¼Û¤-zŸÛm-μôGÅ-ºIô-»Û-»ôhü ¤-ºôPÅ-qºÛ-hÝÅ-Ç+zÅ-ÁÛG-¾-hïºÛ-±ï-hïºÛ-hÝÅ-ÇkÝG-qô-Ÿï-qô-ŸÛG-‚ãP-z-¼ïh-TïÅ-Çtô¤-±ÛG-®¤-¤-GbôGÅ-GTÛG-mÅ-GZÛÅ-ÅÞ-zMãh-qºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-ŸÛz-±GÅ-ÅÞ-¾ºP-zÁh-Mã-¤ïh-q-VGÅ-MãºÛ-Zïm-D-ºhÝG

q¼-Cæm-Gž-zÁhü hGÝü

Page 20: 14 mount-everest-dingri

hï¼-zdïm-hPôÅ-‚ãP-¾ô-MãÅ-MÅ-zÇkÝÅ-GP-»Ûm-»P-»ÛG-fôG-¾-z;ôh-hï-»ÛG-V-¤P-®¤-ºhôm-fzÅ-‚ïh-hGôÅü ŸïÅ-GÅÞPÅ-qºÛ-hGôPÅ-hôm-hP-ü ¿ËG-q¼-z®m-‚ô¾-uÛ-±ôGÅ-mP-±ôGÅ-Çkï-hP-¤Û-ÇKï¼-GP-¼ÞP-mÅ-hïz-¼ÛGÅ-Ço-±ôGÅ-q¼-Cæm-‚Å-hP-‚ïh-zŸÛm-»ôh-m-»P-¾Å-GŸÛ-ºhÛºÛ-fôG-h¤ÛGÅ-z;¼-xG-¾Å-GmP-¤Dm-¤ïh-D¼ü ¼P-»Þ¾-zôh-mP-GŸÛ-¯ºÛ-¬-zXôh-¼P-hzP-®¤-»P-¤ïh-m-¤Û-±ïºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-PG-Mãm-®¤-¾Å-»ÛG-fôG-ºGôh-Mã-ÁÛm-bà-h;º-zÅ-BÛh-ÇkÝG-¤Û-ºi-z-zMãh-qºÛ-¤Û-±ïºÛ-hPôÅ-‚ãP-GÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-hï-hG-hP-fôG-¼P-GÛ-Ç+h-»ÛG-fôG-GÅôG-Oæz-zHÛÅ-bï-ºhÛ-mÅ-zôh-h‚Ûm-GZÛÅ-fôG-¼Û¤-qÅ-hq¼-ºIï¤Å-‚ïh-fÞz-mü ¾ô-MãÅ-hïz-yïP-D-fô¼-hÝ-¤Û-ºIô-z¼-XïÅ-¼z->ÀôG-q-qô-n¤Å-¾-º±ô¾-zhï-hP-ü hï-zŸÛm-¤Gôm-qô-GP-ZÛh-ˆÛ-hGôPÅ-GŸÛ-½ÀzÅ-qô-Vï-Oæz-fÞz-q-¤-¸hü zôh-ˆÛ-Vz-ÆÛh-z®ôm-qºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-¯ô¤-OÛG-q¼-Cæm-HÛ-ÇeôP-V-zÇ+P-fÞz-q-ÅôGÅ-¾-h¤ÛGÅ-bï-ºhÛ-G-±ôGÅ-qÅ-P¾-z-ºDÞ¼-„ÀPÅ- Û̂Å-Vïh-hÝ-¾Å-GŸÛ-ºhÛ-ºGô-º²âGÅ-zHÛÅ-bï-h-z¼-Vz-ÆÛh-z®ôm-qºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-hïz-yïP-zTß-GÅÞ¤-hq¼-Cæm-¸Ûm-q-hP-ü h-hÝP-hq¼-Cæm-ŸÝ-ºV¼-¤P-hG-TÛG-»ôh-DôPÅ-mÅ-h-¼ïÅ-Vz-ÆÛh-z®ôm-qºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-hïz-yïP-zTß-zŸÛ-q-ºhÛ-zŸÛm-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-GÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-<<Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG>>TïÅ-q-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-um-ºzÞ¾-ŸÝ-fÞz-q-ºhÛÅ-M¾-uÛºÛ-ÇeïP-zôh-hôm-

q¼-Cæm-Gž-zÁhü zTßü

Page 21: 14 mount-everest-dingri

fôG-Mz-Bô¼-GmP-¤Dm-n¤Å-hP-ü hï-zŸÛm-zôh-mP-GÛ-»Ûh-Bô-zºÛ-GmÅ-ÇePÅ-¾-Z¤Å-ŸÛz-GmP-¤Dm-n¤Å-¾-¾ô-MãÅ-̂ Û-hrh-GŸÛ¼-fÞGÅ-wm-ÅôÅ-¼ïü ¿ËG-q¼-zôh-xÛ-mP-hÝ-GmÅ-qºÛ-¼P-¼ÛGÅ-GŸôm-BïÅ-n¤Å-¾-Lm-¼zÅ-±ôÅ-zôh-M¾-Dz-hP-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-Vïh-h;º-z-GP-ºi-uh-q-Gž-dôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-¤ïÅ-qôºÛ-FG-Mãm-hïh-mÅ-zôh-zÇem-ÆÛh-¼P-hzP-ÇÀ¼-GÅôºÛ-hôm-hÝ- Þ̧PÅ-FG-Gż-q-ŸÛG-¢Ûm-fÞz-qºÛ-¼ï-z-‚ïh-zŸÛm-»ôhü h-¾m-hïz-yïP-zTß-zŸÛ-q-ºhÛ¼-hq¾-¿km-Ç+Ý-ÇKï¼-»ÛG-±P-mÅ-Vïh-zXôh-z;º-iÛm-z°¾-z-hP-ü ¿ËG-q¼-¾ô-MãÅ- Û̂-zhG-qô-hP- ô̄¤-OÛG-qü ºhÛ-GºÛ-¾Å-‚ïh-»ôPÅ-mÅ-x¼-Iâ-¤Z¤-ºhïGÅ-GmP-zºÛ-ºƒÅ-zÞÅ-¤f¼-hq¼-Cæm-¸Ûm-q¼-zTôÅ-¤Ûm-ljÛP-hzÞÅ-mÅ-fÞGÅ-Xï-Vï-ŸÝ-Mã-»Ûmü

;-±-PG-hzP-ºôh-ºz¼-HÛÅüü

uÛ-¾ô- 2006 ¹- 12 ±ïÅ- 27 ZÛmü

q¼-Cæm-Gž-zÁhü zTß-GTÛG

Page 22: 14 mount-everest-dingri
Page 23: 14 mount-everest-dingri

1

Wô-¤ô-GPÅ-h;¼-¼ÛºÛ-Zï-ºhzÅ-ˆÛ-EÛ¤-Mãhü 1

hP-qôü

Wô-¤ô-GPÅ-h;¼-¼ÛºÛ-Zï-ºhzÅ-ˆÛ-EÛ¤-Mãhü

(1932-1941)

GPÅ-¼ÛºÛ-¼Ð-zÅ-zÇ+ô¼-ŸÛP.º²¤-JÀÛP-»ôPÅ-ˆÛ-G®ßG-MmüºwGÅ-¤VôG-um-¼Å-G¸ÛGÅ-ˆÛ-Ghݾ-ŸÛP.zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-qô-ºhÛ-mÛüVôÅ-º‚ãP-¤DÅ-qºÛ-hGº-Çeôm-ÅôGÅ-M¾-¼zÅ-¾ô-MãÅ-DÞPÅ-z®m-n¤Å-¾Å-‚ãP-z-¿e¼ü fôG-¤¼-Gmôh-¢Ûm-mG-qô-¾-ÅôGÅ-hzP-¤²h-zTß-GZÛÅ-hP.ü M¾-ym-zTß-GZÛÅü ÅÛ¾-¤-zŸÛ-zTß-ÅôGÅ-mÅ-¼Û¤-zŸÛm-zôh-ˆÛ-»Þ¾-ºDô¼-º²Ûm-TÛP.ü hï-XïÅ-zôh-uÛ-¾-hzP-zºÛ-Xï-zô-GZº-FÛ-z®m-qô-mÅ-z Þ̧P-z®m-qôºÛ-GhÝP-Mãh-n¤Å- Û̂Å-zôh- Û̂-M¾-Dz-ºhÛ-º²¤-JÀÛP-Á¼-xôGÅ-M¾-Dz-n¤Å-ˆÛ-mP-mÅ-VôÅ-hP-¼ÛG-GŸÝP.ü Vz-ÆÛh-hP-hq¾-º‚ô¼ü iG-qôºÛ-h¤G-fzÅ-ˆÛ-mÝÅ-q-ÅôGÅ-GP-Å-TÛ-fh-mÅ-»P-¯ï¼-z;ôh-TÛP.ü EÛ¤-¤±ïÅ-Á¼-xôGÅ-M-mG-M¾-Dz-ˆP-zôh-ˆÛ-hqÞP-

Page 24: 14 mount-everest-dingri

2

2 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

GÛÅ-mÝÅ-qÅ-»P-»P-w¤-q¼-¤²h-q-hP.ü zôh-ÅÛ¾-zÞ¼-Hã¼-XïÅ-Å-B-q-hP.ü wG-Iâü ¼Ûm-ÇtäPÅü Çkï-q-G®P-qü &GôP-Å-¿S-q-Vïm-qô-mÅ-z Þ̧P-&M¾-hzP-Ç+Ý-yïP-¼Û¤-‚ôm-HÛÅ-zôh-GŸÝP-hGº-¿km-wô-ƒP-GÛ-Vz-ÆÛh-fÞGÅ-ºGm-zŸïÅ-q-mÅ-P-hGݺÛ-z¼-zôh-ºhÛ-¼P-hzP-¼P-z®m-G®P-¤-»Ûm-q-ǨôÅ-¤Û-hGôÅ-ÁÛP-ü zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-qôºÛ-ŸÛz-yºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-hPôÅ-»ôh-DÞPÅ-¿km-M¾-¼zÅ-DG-¾-Gž-z-¿e¼-»Ûmü

ºhÛ¼-Ç+zÅ-zzÅ-ˆÛ-JÀïP-hôm-mÛü zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-qôºÛ-¤Pº-DôPÅ-¾-Çeôh-¿Ëô-Áï¾-h;¼-¤Û-ºHã¼-lô-XïºÛ-μôP-GÛ-Á¼-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-hq¾-ºDô¼-¾ô-Çkô¤-qºÛ-GmÅ-Vïm-GmÅ-¼Û-¯ºÞü ¿Ëô¼-º²¤-JÀÛP-¼Û-M¾-»ôPÅ-ˆÛ-¤fô-ÁôÅ-zôh- Û̂-GPÅ-Vïm-zMh- Û̂-»-H¾-±ï-¼ÛP-¤Vïh-¿SºÛ-GmÅ-¼Û-GPÅ-ˆÛ-M¾-qô-Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ü ¿Ëô-mÝz-bà-Xï-z®ßm-¤Û-¾-zŸh-q-lô-XïºÛ-Oæz-GmÅ-Eh-q¼-Tmü GmÅ-Vïm-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-»-H¾-¾-xÛ-GPÅ-ˆÛ-¼Ð-zÅ-Ç+ô¼-z-zTÅ-»Ûmü mÝz-bà-w-h¤-q-ÅPÅ-MÅ-ˆÛ-Ghm-Å-hÛP-¼Û-JÀ-ºDô¼ü mÝz-‚P-hÝ-Iâz-fôz-Íô-Mm-q-ÅôGÅ-z;º-zMãh-„À-¤-¤DÅ-Iâz-GZÛÅ-¿km-¤P-qôºÛ-Oæz-GmÅ-Çtä-c-¼Ûü ¿Ëô-Á¼-hÝ-M¾-HÛ-ÂÛÙº¤-®Ûz-¼Û-ŸïÅ-M¾-z-Lôh-±P-q-¤Gôm-qô-lô-Xï-ÅôGÅ-z;º-zMãh-ˆÛ-„À-¤-¤P-qôºÛ-Oæz-GmÅü hïºÛ-¿ËôºÛ-¼ÛP-±h-¤ï-¾ï-iâG-®¤-HÛ-»Þ¾-m-hGï-zTß-±P-zºÛ-hÛP-¼Û-ÇKP-h;¼-ŸïÅ-qü hï-»P-ÇSôm-w-h¤-q-ÅPÅ-MÅ-M-G¼-mÅ-zôh-hÝ-wïzÅ-MãºÛ-

Page 25: 14 mount-everest-dingri

3

Wô-¤ô-GPÅ-h;¼-¼ÛºÛ-Zï-ºhzÅ-ˆÛ-EÛ¤-Mãhü 3

ºhÝm-q-zTPÅ-Ç+zÅ-Ghݾ-‚ºÛ-GmÅ-GP-m-»ôh-¤ïh-G¸ÛGÅ-qÅ-mülô-ǨäG-¼Û¾-ŸÛG-¾-fÞGÅ-Ǩôm-HÛÅ-m¤-¤D¼-ºwPÅ-bï-lô-ºhÛ-G¼-zzÅ-ÅÞ-PºÛ-Ghݾ-‚-»ôh-q-hï¼-ºIô-GÅÞPÅ-q-zŸÛmü lô-ǨäG-qô-hï-zŸÛm-JÀ-ºDô¼-HÛ-GmÅ-hï¼-hÛP-ŸïÅ-ºÞ¼-O-hP-zTÅ-zzÅ-qºÛ-DÞ¾-hïºÛ-¤ÛP-¾-hÛP-¼Û-ŸïÅ-¤ÛP-hÝ-VGÅ-±ß¾ü PG-ºIôÅ-¾ô-MãÅ-ÅÞ-»ôh-q-zŸÛm-hÛP-¼Û-ÇKP-h;¼-hÝ-IGÅü

¾-Çeôh-Áï¾-h;¼-μôP-GÛ-F¾-zÇkÝ-¾¤-¾ÞGÅ-TßP-ŸÝ-mü ¾-Çeôh-Áï¾-h;¼-μôP-¾-μôP-hqôm-B-Åï¼-£ï¾-qô-ŸïÅ-Áôh-iâP-B-zô-GTÛG-hP.ü ¯ï-iâP-Åï¼-¤ô-z-GTÛG-XïÅ-ÅÞ- 1954 ¾ô¼-¾-Çeôh-uÛ-Ez-z¸ôÅ-mÅ-GmÅ-¼Û¤-Çt¼-bïü ¾Å-±m-q-ŸïÅ-¼Û¤-zŸÛ-¾Å-GmÅ-¼Û¤-GTÛG-GÛÅ-h¤º-z-»ôhü Áï¾-h;¼-¤Pº-ŸzÅ-¾-GŸÝP-„À-Å-GÅÞ¤-ŸïÅ-GŸÝP-hGº-¿km-wô-ƒP-hP.ü „À-ƒP-M¾-¤±m-¤fôm-qôüÅ-B-zTÅ-ˆÛ-Ez-DôPÅ-¤Û-Åï¼-»ôhü »P-F¾-MãG-xôGÅ-¾-zdïm-mÅ-GŸÝP-MãGÅ-¤Û-Åï¼-hP.ü ÇKï¼-DôPÅ-¤Û-Åï¼ü VôÅ-GŸÛÅ-¤Û-Åï¼-zTÅ-»ôh-¾ü Åô-m¤-¾Å-DÞPÅ-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-ºE¼-Çkôh-¤Û-Åï¼-n¤Å-F¾-DôPÅ-ÅÞ-zTßG-q-ŸÛG-ˆP-»ôhü

F¾-¼ÛGÅ-ŸÛ-iG-GZÛÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-ºIô-ÇePÅ-mÛü Áï¾-h;¼-¤Pº-ŸzÅ-¾-Áï¾-h;¼-VôÅ-Çkï-hP-ü Çtô-¼ôP-Xï-hqômü ÇKï¼-q-¤±ô-ÇKô-z-

Page 26: 14 mount-everest-dingri

4

4 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

GÅÞ¤-¾-G®ô-iG-GÛ-¾Å-ºGm-»ôh-qºÛ-μôP-hqôm-hP.¤Z¤-hÝ-ºGm-DÞ¼-„ÀPÅ-bïü GŸÝP-ºƒâ-Çeôm-ºWâG-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛ-hô-h¤ü GŸm-»P-μôP-GÛ-¾ô-ºDô¼-¯ÛÅ-zÁï¼-hG-¤Vm-ºGôh-Mã-ÅôGÅ-GP-¿e¼-GŸÝP-hôm-¤fº-hG-¾-ºDÞ¼-ºGm-ŸÝ-Æô¾-ºhÝG hï-ºôG-F¾-¼ÛGÅ-MãG-xôGÅ-¾-hô-h¤-‚ïh-¤Dm-º±ô-hqôm-ŸïÅ-Áï¾-h;¼-¼P-hÝ-Gbm-Çkôh-‚ïh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-Áï¾-h;¼-VôÅ-ÇkïºÛ-º±ô-hqômü Çtô-¼ôP-º±ô-hqômü ¤±ô-ºGô-º±ô-hqômü hÛP-¼Û-º±ô-hqômü Å-B-º±ô-hqôm-ÅôGÅ-»ôhü DôP-n¤-qÅ-Å-±ÛGÅ-d-D¾-GbôP-MãÅ-¤±ôm-GŸÝP-GÛ-F¾-¼ÛGÅ-ŸzÅ-ŸÝºÛ-ºGm-ºEï¼-bï-Å-GmÅ-Åô-ÅôºÛ-Lm-qô-zMãh-z;ôh-ºhô¤Å-‚ïhü hqï¼-mü GŸÝP-MãG-Lm-qô-»P-w¾-Vï¼-zTß-iâG-»ôhühï-ºƒï¾-ÇKï¼-VôÅ-±ô-¾ºP-Lm-qô-Å-GmÅ-Åô-Åô¼-»ôhü

μôP-Bï¾-d-D¾-¿Ë-¯ï-μôP-mÅ-I-ºÞ-z¼ü hï-mÅ-ƒG-B-d-¸¤üƒG-B-mÅ-¾ô-¾ô-h;¼-ÅôGÅ-zMãh-Çtô-¼ôP-qºÛ-Å-DôPÅ-dïºÞ-d-¸¤-mÅ-μôP-GÛ-Å-DôPÅü Å-ŸÛG-d-¸¤-z¼-Bï¾-hGôÅü hï-zŸÛm-¤¼-¾¤üÅ-ŸÛG-mÅ-dïºÞ-zMãh-ƒG-B-d-¸¤-mÅ-I-ºÞ-z¼ü hï-mÅ-¿Ë-¯ï¼-Bï¾-hGôÅü hï-ºƒï¾-I¤-¤±ô-mÅ-Å-BºÛ-DôPÅ-Vß-ºhÝÅü ©-‚-ÅôGÅ-hï-ºƒï¾-hÛP-¼Û¼-Bï¾-hGôÅü hÛP-¼Ûü JÀ-ºDô¼ü ¼ôP-Á¼ü GZº-mP-μôP-zTÅ-¾-GôP-¤±ßPÅ-ŸzÅ-ŸÝ-‚-hGôÅü F¾-¼ÛGÅ-ŸzÅ-ŸÝ-

Page 27: 14 mount-everest-dingri

5

Wô-¤ô-GPÅ-h;¼-¼ÛºÛ-Zï-ºhzÅ-ˆÛ-EÛ¤-Mãhü 5

‚Å-qºÛ-Aïm-HÛÅ-Áï¾-h;¼-¤Pº-ŸzÅ-ˆÛ-wÞºÛ-¯Ó-D-Vß-¼ÛGÅü ¤hº-w-GŸÛÅ-Å-DP-ŸïÅ-±P-¤-F¾-q-¤Û-Åï¼-¾-zhG-fôz-‚Å-VôG Eôm-F¾-@P-ÅÞ¤-zM-iâG-Tß-®¤-»ôhü

iG-qô-mÛü h¤G-F¾-»Ûmü hï-»P-M-¢ôP-h¤G-Çeïü hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-ÇK¼-¾-h¤G-¤Û-GbôP-hGôÅü hï-¾-¼ÛGÅ-GZÛÅ-mÅ-GTÛG-mÛ-h¤G-@P-ŸïÅ-Å-ŸÛP-»ôh-q-¾-ºFÛ-Mãü GŸm-ŸÛG-mÛ-ÇKï¼-VôÅü Åô-ÅôºÛ-Ez-DôPÅ-mÅ-GbôP-hGôÅü

hï-¤Ûm-¿kÛP-hqôm-ŸïÅ-fôz-fP-»ôh-qºÛ-¤Û-±P-»P-»ôhü w-iâG-¿kÛP-hqôm-±-zü ¾ô-¾ô-¿kÛP-hqôm-T-wÞG-qü GŸm-»P-Ÿ¾-Pô-¤ï-¤ô-¸ï¼-z-ÅôGÅ-»ôhü ºhÛ-±ô-mÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-zž-fôz-fP-»ôh-qºÛ-h¤G-¤Û-¼ïhü hï-¤Ûm-zŸÛ-Çoü zMh-Ço-¸ï¼-z-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛ-h¤G-F¾-»P-»ôhü hï-±ô-mÛ-&GôP-Å-¤VôG-GÛ-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-zü IôP-Eï¼-HÛ-Zïm-dôGÅ-q-ÅôGÅ-¼ïhü Ghm-Å-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-Ǩôm-¾¤-±ôGÅ-¤Vôh-zTÅ-ˆÛ-Vïhü ¤¼-F¾-ÅôGÅ-ˆP-ºzÞ¾-hGôÅü

zôh-M¾-»ôPÅ-hP-¤±ßPÅ-q¼-¾G-hPÞ¾-mÛü hP-qô-D-GP-hP-ü GZÛÅ-q-Ç+¼-¤ü GÅÞ¤-q-xïh-zMhü zŸÛ-q-Ÿô-GP-ü ¿S-q-Ÿô-GÅÞ¤-ÇKô¼-¤ôü iâG-q-Ÿô-¿S-ÇKô¼-¤ôü zhÝm-q-^ø-D-h;¼-qôü zMh-q-zTß-bÛü hGÝ-q-ÆP-GÅÞ¤-ÇKô¼-¤ô-zTÅ-hP-ü ÁôG-¾ô¼-HÛ-¼ÛGÅ-hPÞ¾-

Page 28: 14 mount-everest-dingri

6

6 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ÆP-¿S-¾ô¼-hP-ü hPÞ¾-ÆP-zhÝm-hP-Ÿô-¿Sü zTß-¾ô¼ü Zï¼-¿SºÛ-¾ô¼üzM-¾ô¼-zTÅ-»ôhü ̄ Û-Æô¾-mÛü Ÿô-GP-hP-Ç+¼-¤-GTÛG-¾-^ø-D-TÛG-hP-ü Ÿô-GP-zTß-¾-ÆP-GP-ü ÆP-¿S-zTß-¾-lô-±h-GTÛG-»Ûmü wm-±ßm-ÇKô-xãGÅ-hP-T-hPôÅ-Zô-hÝÅ-lô-±h-ˆÛ-IPÅ-¤-GbôGÅ-hPÞ¾-GŸm-n¤Å-zïh-¤Û-uôhü hPÞ¾-hï-n¤Å-ˆÛ-fôG-zôh-»ÛG-hP-¤±ôm-hôm-¿km-qºÛ-¼Û-¤ô-Ço-±ôGÅ-¾Å-»ÛG-¼ÛGÅ-GŸm-GTÛG-ˆP-z;ôh-¤ïhü

¾-Çeôh-hÛP-¼ÛºÛ-»Þ¾-¤Û-n¤Å-VôÅ-¾-hh-TÛP.¾Å-ºƒÅ-¾-»Ûh-VïÅ-qü „Àô-iP-¾-±ßGÅ-fÞz-qü ¼P-ZÛh-h¤º-Å-z¸ÞP-ŸÛP-GŸm-¾-GÝÅ-qü zôh-ˆÛ-M¾-Dz-hP-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-¾-Á-Ÿïm-Vï-ŸÛP.z;º-z¯Û-GÝÅ-z;ݼ-hP-¿km-qü ¾ÞÅ-hP-¾ôPÅ-uôh-GP-GÛ-V-mÅ-M¾-Dz-hP.¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-ˆÛ-ŸzÅ-ºhïGÅ-ŸÝ-Mã¼-„Àô-GZÛÅ-fï-±ô¤-hP.ü Bô-P¾-¤ïh-q-zTÅ-ˆÛ-Eh-VôÅ-hÝ-¤-hP-¿km-q-»Ûmü

»Þ¾-hïºÛ-mP-¾-Çeôh-¿Ëô-hÛP-¼Û-hGº-¼-DP-Gż-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-EÛ¤-±P-ŸÛG-ˆP-GmÅ-zTÅ-ÁÛP-¤Û-¼zÅ-¼Û¤-qÅ-ŸÛ-iG-GZÛÅ-mÅ-M¾-Dz-hP.ü ¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-ˆÛ-ŸzÅ-ºhïGÅ-TÛ-mÝÅ-ŸÝ-zŸÛm-qºÛ-EÛ¤-hïºÛ-zÞ-¤ô¼ü¾-Çeôh-w-iâG-IôP-h;¼-zM-hqôm-HÛ-zÞ-¹-z-M¾-qô-¤G-q¼-zÅÞÅü DôP-GZÛÅ-¾-zÞ-yâG-¤ÛP-ÆÛP-GÅÞ¤-‚ãP-ü hïºÛ-mP-mÅ-Vï-z-hP-VßP-z-GZÛÅ-zÞ-¤ô-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ºƒÛP-z-hï-zÞ-¿ËG-q-»Ûmü

Page 29: 14 mount-everest-dingri

7

Wô-¤ô-GPÅ-h;¼-¼ÛºÛ-Zï-ºhzÅ-ˆÛ-EÛ¤-Mãhü 7

EÛ¤-±P-GÛ-º±ô-fzÅ-mÛ-ŸÛP-ºƒôG-fôm-¾Å-hP.ü hï-»P-GŸÝP-MãG-DôPÅ-h¤G-dïm-Å-ŸÛP-ÅôGÅ-zhG-hzP-»ôh-ÇezÅü T-hP-hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-ÇK¼-DôPÅ-ÅÞ-h¤G-¤Û-¼ï-º²â¾-GŸÝG-‚ïh-hGôÅ-q-¿e¼-ym-HÛ-¤ïÅ-qô-¹-z-M¾-qô-T-hP-hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-ÇK¼-HÛ-h¤G-¤Û¼-»ôhü

uÛ-¾ô- 1912 Vß-‚Û-¾ô¼-¾ÞºÞ-Tßm-M-h¤G-z®m-º²â¾-z-hÛP-¼Û-mÅ-T-hP-zôh-h¤G-GÛÅ-¤f¼-Côh-GbôP-zºÛ-h¤G-ºfz-mP-ü ¤ïÅ-qô-¹-z-M¾-qô-hÛP-¼Û-Áï¾-h;¼-hP-ÇtP-¾ïz-GZÛÅ-z¼-HÛ-zÞ¤-VߺÛ-;z-;ô-¸¤-q-ºGôG-ÆâP-GÛ-¾Å-ºGm-º²Ûm-Ç+zÅü h¤G-ºfz-mP-¤ïÅ-qô-M-hIºÛ-¾G-bà-Áô¼ü

¤ïÅ-qôºÛ-h¤G-±z-bà-DôP-GÛ-zÞ-¿ËG-q-T-hP-hÛP-¼ÛºÛ-h¤G-DôPÅ-ŸÝGÅ-bïü D¤Å-ÅÞ-Å-ÆâP-¾-zBôh-Ç+zÅ-¾ô-Zï¼-zŸÛ¼-¾ôm-¤±¤Å-Çkï-hGï-hGº-Xï-Ǩm-¤±ô-¤ô-hP-¼P-¤ôÅ-¤²º-¤fÞm-»Ûh-GTßGÅ-ˆÛÅ-z¸º-º±ô¼-Hã¼-bïü £æ¤-¿km-¤-¤±ô-¤ô-hP-¤Z¤-hÛP-¼Û¼-GŸÛÅ-ºDô¼-¾-wïzÅü

uÛ-¾ô- 1929 ¾ôºÛ-hˆÛ¾-º±¤Å-¾-hGº-¼-DP-Gż-HÛ-z¸º-±ô-GZÛÅ-¾-zÞ-¤ô-ÍÞ-Mm-BïÅ-q-hP-ü Vß-vï¾-uÛ-¾ô- 1932 zôh-¹- 5 ±ïÅ- 17 ZÛm-ym-PG-hzP-z®Åü

zôh-GŸÝP-h¤G-uÛ-DP-GÛÅ-z;º-ºƒï¾-¿e¼-T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-

Page 30: 14 mount-everest-dingri

8

8 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

n¤Å-Gô-ºWô-Åï¼-D¼-Å-ÆâP-Vïh-zBôh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-z;º-¤PGÅ-¤²h-q-zŸÛmü Í-¤-¤±ô-¤ôÅ-P-ÇK¾-q¼-ºEï¼-mÅ-w-¿ËG-qºÛ-XïÅ-ÅÞ-P-±ô-GÅÞ¤-»P-ºƒPÅü PÅ-im-ÅôÅ-®¤-¾-w-h¤-q-¾-ÅôGÅ-q-¤Û-IPÅ-ºGº-ŸÛG-Gô-Wô-Åï¼-D-mÅ-ZÛm-GÅÞ¤-®¤-HÛ-Å-V-ºhm-VôÅ-ºDô¼-hGôm-mÅ-M-h¤G-¤f¼-z=ôh-GbôP-z¼-wïzÅ-q-hP-ü P-±ô-»P-¤Z¤-ºFÛh-GmP-Çeï-P-±ô-ºhm-DôG-bà-zŸG-Çeï-h¤G-ºfz-¾-xÛmü h¤G-fG-Vôh-¤±¤Å-GmÅ-¤W¾-z¼-FÛh-q-hP.ü hïºÛ-Ç+zÅ-T-hP-hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-GÛÅ-¤±m-ºGïzÅ-zbP-mÅ-zÅh-qºÛ-M-h¤G-ÁÛ-zºÛ-¼ô-ºGº-ŸÛG-Å-Áݾ-ŸÛG-bà-»ôh-q-P-±ôÅ-¤fôP-ü hï-mÅ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-Gô-ºWô-Åï¼-D¼-GmÅ-¤Þ¼-GTßP-qô-q-ÅPÅ-z®Å-ÁÛP-ü hÛP-h¤G-n¤Å-¤hô-uÛºÛ-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-¾-z;º-ºGÝG-GmP-XïÅ-Vz-¤hô¼-GTßP-qô-d-¤IÛm-z®Åü

uÛ-¾ô- 1942 ¾ô¼-w-¿ËG-q-hGÝP-IPÅ-Åô-zMh-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-Ç+zÅ-DôP-¾-JÀô-zÞ¼-hÝ-¾ôP-D¼-GZm-ºzÞ¼-ŸÛG-BïÅ-bïü ²-iG-Wï-Vï¼-Hã¼-mÅ-¼P-ZÛh-º±ô-¤Û-fÞz-q-ÁïÅ-ÁÛP-ü h¤G-ÇK¼-HÛ-¿kÛP-hqôm-Ç+¾-z¸P-¾GÅ-ºzôh-mÅ-yâG-GݺÛ-ºGô-ºhôm-º±ô-BôP-»ôP-zºÛ-¼ï-z-ŸÝÅ-bï-¹-z-GZÛÅ-XïÅ-w-ºhÅ-IôPÅ-ÅÞ-Hã¼ü

w-º±ô-zŸÝGÅ-Ç+zÅ-DôP-GÛ-¹-¼ïºÛ-wôGÅ-®¤-¤-¸hü Ÿô¼-hÝ-±ôP-¾Å-‚Å-mÅ-P-±ôºÛ-EÛ¤-±P-GÛ-º±ô-z¼-h;º-P¾-TÛ-»P-¤ïh-ˆP-ü

Page 31: 14 mount-everest-dingri

9

Wô-¤ô-GPÅ-h;¼-¼ÛºÛ-Zï-ºhzÅ-ˆÛ-EÛ¤-Mãhü 9

Ç+zÅ-hï-mÅ-z¸ÞP-P-±ôºÛ-º±ô-z¼-h;º-P¾-Wï-Vï¼-Hã¼-bï-º±ô-fzÅ-Vïh-Í-¤-¾GÅ-hP-ü ¾ô-zTß-GÅÞ¤-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-GTïm-¤ô-ÍÞ-Mm-Oô¾-¤Å-¼Û-mÅ-¤ï-ÁÛP-hP-ü Çeôm-D¼-ÁÛP-bôG-hP-¼P-‚ãP-¼Û-BïÅ-GÅï¼-Á-ÅôGÅ-ºfÞ-mÅ-z®ôP-q-hP-ü ¼P-¾ô-zTß-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-P-¼P-d-iï¾-HÛ-Mm-V-hP-Ç~äG-V¾-¾ÞGÅ-MG-¤Dm-ƒG-G»z-q-n¤Å- Û̂-¤hÝmü Ç~äh-q-MG-qºÛ-¾Å-;-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛ-¤Û-G»ôG-MãG-Çeï-¿eô-GôÅ-º±ô¾-fzÅ-‚Åü

Page 32: 14 mount-everest-dingri

10

10 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

GZÛÅ-qü

¾ô-zTß-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-hÐ-yâG-h¤G-¤Û¼-ŸÝGÅ-qü(1942-1953)

hï-¿e¼-¾ô-GTÛG-ºhÅ-XïÅ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-¿kÛP-hqôm-Ç+¾-z¸P-¾GÅ-P-±ôºÛ-EÛ¤-hÝ-wïzÅ-mÅ-Í-¤-¾GÅ-hP-P-±ô¼ü w-h¤-qÅ-yâ-Gݼ-¿e-dôG-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-D-Vï¤Å-zŸG-q-¿e¼ü ¼Þ-zM-¿kÛP-GÅÞ¤-¿Ëm-MÅ-ż-zÞ-Vï-z-PG-hzP-h¤G-ÇK¼-¾-º±ßh-fzÅ-BzÅ-ºWâG-ŸÝÅ-q-zŸÛm-z;º-ºFô¾-‚ãP-ÅôP-zÅü ¤hº-hqôm-ż-¾G-fï¾-zMG-q¼-ºIô-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-z;º-GmP-ü Í-¤-¾GÅ-hP-P-±ô-±P-¤-hGº-vô-Vïm-qô-BïÅ-bï-Í-¤Å-¿kÛP-hqôm-¾GÅ-ÅÞ-¾G-GZÛÅ-f¾-¤ô-¢¼-mÅ-fÞGÅ-Xï-Vï-ŸïÅ-¾m-IPÅ-hÝ-¤¼-ŸÝÅü hï-mÅ-¿kÛP-hqôm-Ç+¾-z¸P-¾GÅ- Û̂Å-P-¼Þ-fôG-¤hº-hqôm-ż-ºFÛh-mÅ-¤hº-hqôm-HÛÅ-¾G-fï¾-zMz-¤±¤Å-GÅÞPÅ-hômüEïh-¼P-w-¿ËG-qºÛ-±z-T-hP-hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-ÇK¼-¾-zTßG-qÅ-ÇÀh-xÛm-h¤G-

Page 33: 14 mount-everest-dingri

11

¾ô-zTß-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-hÐ-yâG-h¤G-¤Û¼-ŸÝGÅ-qü 11

FÛ¤Å-h¤-mm-ÆâP-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-z;º-¤PGÅ-GmP-üw-ºhÅ-qºÛ-Gb¤-Pm-hï-Çkï-hGï¼-fôÅ-qÅ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-Í-ŸP-

lô-Xï-¾GÅ-Vz-¤hô¼-P-±ô-fÞG-ºyh-hÝ-»ôP-Çeïü Á-±-¸ô¾-¤ïh-ˆÛÅ-¤-zÞ-n¤Å-Çkï-hGï-hGº-Xï¼-ºIô-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-ÍÞ-±ßGÅ-mm-ˆÛÅ-zÁh-ˆP-ü Í-¤-¾GÅ-mÅ-zÞ-PG-hzP-h¤G-¤Û¼-º±ßh-q-hP-ü yâG-GݺÛ-wºÛ-Çtäm-Zï-f¤Å-Th-ˆP-hÛP-¼Û¼-»ôh-ÇezÅ-hÛP-¼Û¼-ºIô-»Û-»Ûmüz¸º-¹-ºhÅ-ˆP-zÞ-yâG-n¤Å-¾-zŤ-„Àô-¤-GbP-z¼-¼P-ºhôh-¿e¼-‚ïh-fzÅ-¤ïh-TÛP-ü GTïm-qôÅ-Pïh-¤-Ǩh-n¤Å-¾-Åï¤Å-ºDÞ¼-¸ô¾-¤ïh-GmP-z¼-fÞGÅ-Xï-Vï-ŸïÅ-Åï¤Å-fG-Vôh-qôÅ-zÁhü iÛm-Tm-Bïh-¤Å-P-±ôºÛ-zhï-ÇkÝG-¾-Åï¤Å-ºDÞ¼-HÛÅ-Í-ŸP-¾GÅ-GÛ-¤hÝm-Gh¤-G-hï-¿e¼-¤²h-q-hP-ü ZÛm-ÁÅ-ÇSôm-P-h¤G-¤Û¼-º±ßh-q¼-hGº-±ô¼-Vïm-qô-‚ïh-qºP-hôm-hÝ-P-±ô-D¤Å-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-GmÅ-ÇePÅ-Bô-qô¼-¾ÞÅ-hôGÅ-¼ïhü

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-qôºÛ-h¤G-¤Û¼-Gż-ŸÝGÅ-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-G Þ̧GÅ-fP-Gô-ºwï¼-fôG-¼P-¾ô-zTô-zMh-¾-Åôm-q-ŸÛG-hP-ü ¤hº-hqôm-¤hÝm-¤Û-zz-um-zÁï¼-¾-zT¼-hGôÅ-qºÛ-V-Aïm-GZÛÅ-mÛ-¤-¤f¼-hGôÅü

ºôm-ˆP-w-»Û-‚Å-z¸P-XïÅ-ºƒï¾-HÛÅ-¼P-ZÛh-h¤G-¤Û¼-º²â¾-hÝÅ-h¤ÛGÅ-zž-fôz-q-hP-ü P-±ô-BïÅ-®¤-mÅ-h¤G-¤Û-hP-ºƒ¾-

Page 34: 14 mount-everest-dingri

12

12 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¤ïh-º±¼-¾ôPÅ-‚ãP-zºÛ-h¤G-yâG-n¤Å-h¤G- ï̄h-hP-ü ¤ï-¤hº-zÁÛG-OÛG-¤ÛG-¾¤-hÝ-‚P-Çeï-h¤G- ï̄h-ÅôGÅ-h¤G-¤ÛºÛ-‚ïh-ÇKô-mÛü P-±ô-h¤G-yâG-n¤Å-ˆÛ-¯ïh-¤ô-»G-ÁôÅ-hï-¼ïhü hï¼-zdïm-¼P-ZÛh-h¤G-Gż-»Ûm-»P-h¤G- ï̄h-hP-¤ï-¤hº-zÁÛG-OÛG-¢P-¤-hGôÅ-q¼-hÝP-qºÛ-DôPÅ-ÅÞ-º±ßh-hïü hÝP-GÛ-O-¾Å-hI-zô-G¼-»ôh-Çeôm-zlü hI-zô-hP-º²ÛP-zlü h¤G-¯ïh-ˆÛ-zl-ÅôGÅ-h‚Ûm-Ç+h-fôG-h¤G-¾ÞGÅ-¸z-¢ôP-‚Å-q-hP-ü Ÿô¼-hÝ-P-±ô-h¤G-yâG-n¤Å-hP-¤Z¤-Vß-A¾-¢PÅ-bï-ym-ÅôGÅ-¾ô-zTß-GTÛG-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-h¤G-yâG-zTô-¿S-®¤-HÛÅ-h‚¼-D-V¼-ÁÝGÅ-MÅ-Ç+zÅ-ˆP-μ-Vß-hP-Pô¤-Vß-GZÛÅ-GTôh-fÞz-ˆÛ-»ôhü

Ç+zÅ-hï¼-zôh-¾-D-hP-IÔ-zŸÛ-h¤G-ÇK¼-hP-ü G-hP-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-h¤G-ÇK¼ü P-hP-M¾-¯ï-h¤G-ÇK¼ü T-hP-hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-ÇK¼-zTÅ-h¤G-ÇK¼-zŸÛ-»ôh-q-n¤Å-¾-zôh-h¤G-ÅÞ¤-ÇeôP-ŸïÅ-ºzôh-Æô¾-¤VÛÅühï-¤Ûm-M¾-zºÛ-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-Vïh-z®ßGÅ-qºÛ-;-hP-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-h¤G-ÇK¼-»ôhü

FÛ¤Å-mÛü FÛ¤Å-»ÛG-Ÿ¾-¿Uï-zTß-GÅÞ¤-GŸÛ-¾-zŸG-Çeï-¤Û-ÅÞÅ-mG-ZïÅ-TÛ-ºi-zÅGÅ-q¼-fG-GTôh-‚ïhü ZïÅ-Tm-q¼-¤m¼-GTôh-GbôP-‚ïh-¾G-V-d-¿UG-hP-ü ;ô-¿UG @P-¿UGÅü ¾G-¿UGÅü Ç+ï-ÇKôü Çkô¤-‚ïh-fG-q-ÅôGÅ-»ôhü

¼P-¾ô-zTß-zŸÛ-Çeï-uÛ-¾ô- 1946 hGÝm-D¼-zôh-GŸÝP-h¤G-

Page 35: 14 mount-everest-dingri

13

¾ô-zTß-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-hÐ-yâG-h¤G-¤Û¼-ŸÝGÅ-qü 13

uÛ-DP-mÅ-T-hP-hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-ÇK¼-HÛ-ºGô-h¤G-»ôPÅ-μôGÅ-ºDô¼-ŸG-hGôPÅ-q-GmP-z-¿e¼ü Í-¤-¤±ô-¤ô-¾GÅ-hP-ym-±ô-¤ÛP-ÆÛP-zTÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ-¾ôG-mÅ-ŸÛP-ºƒôG-fôm-¾Å-¾-ŸÝGÅü

uÛ-¾ô- 1947 h‚¼-D-¼P-GŸÝP-h¤G-uÛ-DP-GÛÅ-ym-±ô-T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-n¤Åü zôh- Û̂-M¾-Å-GZÛÅ-q-GŸÛÅ- ï̄¼-z;º-ÇKÝG-GmP-Çeï-¹-ÁÅ-zÇkh-XïÅü P-±ô-mG-Vß¼-Å-ÆâP-hP-ü b-hP-h¤G-ÇK¼-hP-Áô-Çe-¿Ëô-(Áô-q-¤hôü hq¾-ºz¼-Çe-μôP-ü ¿Ëô-μôP-ü)GÅÞ¤-HÛ-h¤G-zTÅ-Vz-¤hô-Ç+¤-fôG-Iâ-D¼-G-hP-GŸÛÅ- ï̄-h¤G-ÇK¼-HÛ-Mz-Çoôm-hÝ-zÇ+ô-¤PGÅ-¤²hü mG-Vß-μôP-hÝ-ZÛm-GÝP-ŸÛG-P-±ô-Z¾-DP-mP-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-Å-ºGݾ-‚ãP-zÅ-ÇKïºÞ-DÞP-mÅ-xÛ¼-¿e-Ç+zÅ-Å-GŸÛ-f¤Å-Th-ºh¼-ŸÛP-ü ¼Û-EÛ¤-f¤Å-Th-»ô¤-»ô¤-hÝ-ºGݾü ®G-O-hP-ºÞ¼-OÅ-Gm¤-Å-z;P-zºÛ-Å-»ô¤-ŸÛG-zMzü

»P-ü ¾ô-hïºÛ-zôh-¹-zhÝm-qºÛ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-¤Þm-¤-¼Þz-®¤-¾-JÀô-zÞ¼-¤ï-¤hº-hÝ-¤-ºwïm-¼ïÅ-‚ïh-qºÛ-O-¤Û-n¤Å-ˆÛ-n-z¼-fôÅü ¼Û¤-qÅ-Zï-ºI¤-hI-zô-ÇÀïzÅ-q-¿e-zÞºÛ-¤ï-¤hºÛ-O-²-iG-Hã¼-qü h¤G-¤Û-ºGÅ-¯Ó-¼¼-»ôh-qºÛ-h¤G-d-WG-zTô¤-‚Å-q¼-hôGÅ-bïü ¤ï-¤hº-ºEï¼-mÅ-¼-¤h¼-fôm-»P-d-μÛ¼-ÅôP-zºÛ-h¤G-¤Û-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-ˆP-O-hï-¿e-zÞ-fôÅ-qü h¤G-ÇK¼-hzÞÅ-¤¼-Zïm-D-‚ãP-hôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-d-wô-¿UG-GÛÅ-zÇ+ݾ-

Page 36: 14 mount-everest-dingri

14

14 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

bï-±ß¼-»ôP-z-hP-¾¤-z¼-fÞG-yh-‚ãP.ü XïÅ-ÅÞ-zôh-qÅ-¿Ë-h¤G-ºFâG-qºÛ-¤ÛP-zbGÅ-qºÛ-TÛ-»Ûm-ºhÛ-»Ûm-¤ïh-qºÛ-O-hï-mÛ-ZÛm-¤±m-GTÛG-IGÅ-q-hP-Å-xôGÅ-GP-hÝ-xÛm-»P-hï-xôGÅ-mÅ-fôÅü

mG-Vß-μôP-hÝ-¹-z-zhÝm-®¤-zÇkh-XïÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1949 ¼P-¾ô-zTß-zhÝm-Åôm-qºÛ-Ç+zÅ-P-±ô-ºGô-h¤G 250 μ-h¤¼-Í-ƒG-Å-DÞ¾-hP.ü ºh¤-VÛP-¾ÞP-Å-DÞ¾-¾-ºGô-h¤G 250 ¼ï-zTÅ-Å-ÆâP-hÝ-zbP-z-mÅ-ym-ºh¤-VÛP-¾ÞP-hÝ-»ôh-TÛP-ü h¤G-Gݼ-¼ï¼-¤Û-zŸÛ-mÅ-zTß-z¼-Çkôh-q-M-h¤G-¾-hôGÅ-G¸ôm-HÛÅ-Gݼ-mP-mÅü Å-ºôG-GÛ-º²ÛP-¼G-¤ï-¤hºÛ-ÇkÛG-DÞP-z¸ôÅ-bï-Åô-q-¤-GbôGÅ-qºÛ-GŸm-h¤G-¤Û-n¤Å-Å-ºôG-bà-Çkôhü Å-hï-mÛ-»PÅ-ÁÛP-M-Vï-zºÛ-¤Û-¤ïh-¾ÞP-ÇeôP-¯Ó-fP-»Ûm-Aïmü VÛP-¾ÞP-GÛ-ºƒôG-qºÛ-D-Mãm-¾ü AP-ºƒôP-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-Å-V-¼ïhü ü½ÀâP-¿ËG-q-GZÛÅ-qô-º±ßz-Å-¼ïhü üTïÅ-IGÅü

uÛ-¾ô- 1950 ¹- 11 ±ïÅ- 14 ®¤-¾-P-±ôºÛ-Å-V-hï-zMãh-Vz-¤hôºÛ-Å-ÆâP-z-G-hP-h¤G-¤Û-zTß-®¤-º‚ô¼-z-GhôP-zÅÞ¼-xÛm-qÅü DôP-±ôºÛ-¾ÞÅ-¾-Gô-¤±ôm-zbGÅ-¤ïh-TÛP-ü h¤G-GôÅ-xã-q-Å-¤hôG-hP-@P-¿Ë¤-ɾ-Éâ¾-hÝ-Hã¼ü ÁÛm-bà-Bô-Z¤Å-Vï-zºÛ-PP-±ß¾-hÝ-»ôh-q-Gݼ-mP-zÅÞÅ-bï-Çoï-¾ïm-GP-¸z-‚Å-bï-TÛ-ZïÅ-ŤüŸïÅ-iÛ-Ç+zÅ-hïºÛ-mP-mÅ-¤Û-Lm-¾ô-¿S-zTß-®¤-¾-Åôm-q-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-M-

Page 37: 14 mount-everest-dingri

15

¾ô-zTß-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-hÐ-yâG-h¤G-¤Û¼-ŸÝGÅ-qü 15

¤ÛºÛ-h¤G-¤ÛÅ-Ç+¤-fôG-Iâ-D-mÅ-fôG-¤¼-z®m-º²â¾-‚Å-hÝÅü G-hP-h¤G-ÇK¼-HÛ-h¤G-¤Û-VÛG-ÇeôP-®¤-hP-h¤G-ºFâG-fïPÅ-GZÛÅ-zMz-mÅ-¼ï-ŸÛG-h¤G-¤±¤Å-Vôh-hï-GmÅ-¤ÞºÛ-¤±m-¤ô-ŸÛG Mãm-hÝ-ºhô-¤ïh-ˆÛ-uôh-±ß¾-º²Ûm-TÛP-GP-‚ãP-Áôh-¤Dm-„Àô-±ï-¿Ëô-q-ŸïÅ-qÅüºƒÛ-VߺÛ-w-¼ô¾-HÛ-M-h¤G-xôGÅ-mÅ-Å-ƒâ-zºÛ-O-fôÅ-±ß¾-ljm-GÅïP-ŸÝÅ-ˆP-»Ûh-VïÅ-¤-‚Åü

ÅP-ZÛm-M-h¤G-GÛ-Iâ-GTÛG-XïÅ-GZÛÅ-¤fÞh- Û̂Å-ºƒÛ-Vß-zL¾-ŸÛP-Mz-xôGÅ-mÅ-¤ï-NôGÅ-hP-¤ï-¤hºÛ-ÆâP-Bôz-ÁÝGÅ-Vï¼-‚Å-qÅü¼P-h¤G-GÛÅ-¤-zÇeïm-q¼-ºƒÛ-Vß-hï-¤-fG-zL¾ü hï-Ç+zÅ-G-hP-¤hº-hqôm-¤Þ-‚-hP-ü ¼Þ-hqôm-Ç~äh-DP-qü Ÿ¾-Pô-ºƒôP-¼G-zTÅ-ˆÛÅ-hqº-P¼-¿km-qºÛ-ºGô-FÛh-mÅ-²-iG-GÛÅ-h¤G-ºfz-fïPÅ-ºGº-‚Å-ˆP.ü ¤P-Çoï-ZÝP-GÛÅ-zÇeïm-fzÅ-ƒ¾-mÅ-Ç+zÅ-hïºÛ-hqº-zôºÛ-Eã-¤VôG-¼Þ-hqôm-Ç~äh-DP-q-hP-Ÿ¾-Pô-ºƒôP-¼G-GZÛÅ-ÇS-xÛ¼-hI-»Û-¾G-bà-¼P-ÆôG-Áô¼-mÅ-w¤-ZïÅ-‚ãP-ü h-hÝP-Bô-GŸÝP-ÅôGÅ-ÅÞ-M-h¤G-GÛÅ-zôh-h¤G-¾-¤±m-ºGïzÅ-zbP-mÅ-h¤G-¤ÛºÛ-z¸º-¹-zÞ-yâG-hP-zTÅ-q-ÇkïzÅ-GÅôh-zbP-ü

ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-fÞz-qºÛ-¿ËG-¤-ºGº-Vz-¤hô¼-º‚ô¼-bï-h¤G-ºfz-ym-®¤-‚Å-XïÅü b-hP-¤hº-hqôm-Çkï-hGïºÛ-ÆÅ-Ç+¾-z¸P-hzP-

Page 38: 14 mount-everest-dingri

16

16 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ºhÝÅ-ˆÛÅ-ºGô-FÛh-qºÛ-b-hP-h¤G-ÇK¼-mÅ-M-h¤G-¾-¤Gô-zbGÅü¤hô-uÛ-P-wôh-ˆÛ-z;º-¿e¼-Vz-¤hôºÛ-Gô-¤±ôm-DP-¾-¤ï-zMz-Çeï-Pô-¾Å-n¤Å-Iâ-GÝ-hGôm-z¼-ƒôÅ-wïzÅ-ˆP-ü M-h¤G-GÛÅ-Vz-¤hô¼-FÛh-hï-z;G-BÛ¾-‚Åü P-±ô¼-»¼-¾¤-hÝ-Gô-¤±ôm-¤ïh-qÅ-D¤Å-xôGÅ-¤Û-Åï¼-HÛÅ-¸Å-GôÅ-TßP-¿ËG-q-n¤Å-ˆP-zTô¤-Çeï-ÆôG-¤Gô-fôm-®¤-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-„Àô-w¤-Vïm-qôÅ-zÁhü

¹-z-zMh-®¤-XïÅ-zôh-GŸÝP-h¤G-uÛ-DP-GÛÅ-z;º-¿e¼-ºh¤-VÛ-¾ÞP-hP-μ-h¤¼-Í-ƒG-bà-»ôh-qºÛ-hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-¤Û-n¤Åü mG-Vß¼-Å-ÆâP-hÝ-¼Þz-zÇkÝÅ-¤²h-hïü T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-¤hº-hqôm-HÛÅ-Vz-¤hô-M-h¤¼-¾-Áô¼-ŸÛP-ü uÛ-¾ô- 1951 ¹- 5 ±ïÅ- 23ZÛm-IôÅ-¤fÞm-hôm-±m-zTß-zhÝm-zŸG-Ç+ô¼-hP-ü ¼ÛP-¤Ûm-M-h¤G-mG-Vß-zMãh-¿Ë-ż-ºIô-Mã¼-n¤-ºHã¼-Pm-q-®¤-»P-zÇem-¤Û-VôG-TÛP-ü xÛÅ-ˆÛ-‚ïh-ÇKô-mÛü zôh-GŸÝP-h¤G-uÛ-DP-GÛÅ-z;º-ÇKÝG-hGôÅü ŸïÅ-ºhÅ-qºÛ-»ô-¾P-Vï-zºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-hP-¤-ºôP-qºÛ-D-xôGÅ-¾¤-Çeôm-»ôPÅ-Ez-bà-GÅÞPÅü

mG-Vß-μôP-hÝ-¹-z-GTÛG-®¤-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-μ-h¤¼-Í-ƒG-xôGÅ-‚P-¾¤-mÅ-¤ºô-»Û-q¼-ºx¼-zºÛ-M-h¤G-ÇeôP-®¤-hP-ü Vz-¤hô-mÅ-ÅôG-G»G-¾-zMãh-GŸÝP-¾¤-xôGÅ-mÅ-M-h¤G-ÇeôP-yG-GTÛG-zTÅü

Page 39: 14 mount-everest-dingri

17

¾ô-zTß-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-hÐ-yâG-h¤G-¤Û¼-ŸÝGÅ-qü 17

xôGÅ-GZÛÅ- Û̂-M-h¤G-n¤Å-mG-Vß¼-ZÛm-GTÛG-GÛ-hGôP-iô-ºhÝ-º²ô¤Å-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü mG-Vß-IôP-l¾-HÛ-Á¼-HÛ-»PÅ-qºÛ-ÇtP-GŸôPÅ-hï¼-h¤G-ÇK¼-GZÛÅ-qô-Åô-ÅôºÛ-Gݼ-B-VÛ¾-¾ï¼-DïPÅü

Dô-q-±ô-º‚ô¼-¤-fG-qºÛ-hGôP-¤ô-hï¼-zôh-h¤G-¼Þ-hqômü zM-hqômü ¤hº-hqôm-hP-Ÿ¾-Pô-zŸÛ-zTÅ-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-ŸÛG-GÛ-hzÞÅ-ºzôh-hï-M-hqôm-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-Gb¤-zÁh-mP-ü zôh-mÛ-º²¤-JÀÛP-mÅ-XïÅ-¾ÞÅ-Tm-ŸÛG-»Ûm-Aïm-P-±ô-M-¼ÛGÅ-Çtäm-¹Å-z¯ï-Åï¤Å-zTPÅ-mÅ-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-‚ïh-q¼-»ôP-qÅü XïÅ-ÅÞ-»¼-MÅ-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-¤±¤Å-P-±ô-±P-¤-M-mG-bà-¾ôG-GÛ-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zÁh-TÛP-ü h-hÝP-M-h¤G-ºFz-Çeôm-¼Þ-DG-n¤Å-zôh-h¤G-GÛ-ÇK¼-hÝ-»ôP-Çeï-ºFP-ÁÛºÛ-¹ôÅ-G¼-hP-ü Gż-zXï¼-M¾-D-fôz-qü M-mG-bà-h¤PÅ-G®ôºÛ-zTôÅ-Nå¼-zbP-zü ¤Û-¤P-¾-¿ËG-zŤ-n¤-hG-GÛ-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-‚ïh-±ß¾-zTÅ-ˆÛ-mP-hôm-¿km-qºÛ-Gb¤-zXôh-¹ôÅ-G¼-ºFz-qü hï-zŸÛm-Dô-q-±ô-w¼-±ß¼-ºIô-Ç+zÅ-ˆP-¤ºô-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛ-ºi-q¼-ºx¼-ŸÛP-ü uÛ-±ôGÅ-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-ˆÛ-¾¤-hÝ-ºIô-m-¤hÝm-¾¤-»ôh-±ß¾-ÅôGÅ-GôP-hP-GTÛG-¤±ßPÅ-zÁh-TÛP-ü zôh-¤Û¼-ÁÛm-bà-¤²º-¤fÞm-Vï-¤hôG-zÇem-q-hP-ü »P-xôGÅ-GTÛG-mÅ-G»Å-G»ôm-HÛ-¼Û-¤Gô-ÅôGÅ-ÅÞ-M-h¤G-Åô-¿e-z-z=¤Å-bï-ZÛm-¤±m-¿eôÅ-¤ïh-hôGÅ-G¸ôm-¿Ëôh-¤ïh-‚ïhü

Page 40: 14 mount-everest-dingri

18

18 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

M-h¤G-n¤Å-mG-Vß¼-ZÛm-zhÝm-®¤-zÇkh-hï-¿Ë-źÛ-xôGÅ-¾-ÇkïzÅ-GTÛG-bà-fôm-mÅ-¹-z-GZÛÅ-®¤-XïÅü uÛ-¾ô- 1952 ¹- 4±ïÅ- 20 ®¤-¾-&;Ým-G¸ÛGÅ-qa-Vïm-¼Ûm-qô-Vï-Ç+Ý-yïP-zTß-q-Xï-z®ßm-„Àô-z¸P-ºyÛm-¾Å-¿Ëàm-Iâz-VôÅ- Û̂-M¾-¤±m-¤VôG-zôh-hÝ-VÛzÅ-Nå¼-fôG-¤¼-GmP-zÅü ¤VôG-væ¾-¼Ûm-qô-VïºÛ-¤±m-hqïºÛ-hˆÛ¾-ºDô¼-¤W¾-zºÛ-Ç+¾-z¸P-GÛ-hGº-Çeôm-fôG-¤¼-fôz-TÛP-ü P-±ô-T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-n¤Å-¼P-¤ôÅ-ˆÛÅ-¤W¾-zT¼-ŸÝÅ-bï-xG-hzP-hP-¤W¾-¤hÝh-fôz-q-hP-¤VôG-væ¾-¼Ûm-qô-Vï-ºFâ¾-ƒ¾-»Ûm-q-hï-hÝÅ-mÅ-PïÅ-ÁïÅ-½‰ïhü

P-±ô-¹-z-hGÝ-®¤-mG-Vß¼-GmÅ-zTÅ-ÁÛP-XïÅ-ÅÞ-zôh-GŸÝP-h¤G-uÛ-DP-mÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-Åô-Åô¼-GŸÛÅ-Ç+ô¼-¾-ºIô-hGôÅ- Û̂-z;º-M-wïzÅ-qºÛ-hGôPÅ-hôm-zŸÛmü ºh¤-GŸÝP-hP-ü »PÅ-q-Tmü ¤¼-AP-ü ºÞ-»ÞG ÇeG-Iâ-D-zTÅ-zMãh-GŸÛÅ-¯ï¼-º‚ô¼ü GŸÛÅ-¯ï-z=-ÁÛÅ-BÛh-±¾-HÛ-Zï-ºI¤-¿UGÅ-ÁôG-GÛ-fôG-G»ôGÅ-qºÛ-M-h¤G-GÛ-h¤G-ÇK¼-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-Gż-hÝ-zMz-ºhÝG

P-±ô-ZÛm-GZÛÅ-¼ÛP-z=-ÁÛÅ-¿Ëàm-qô-hGôm-q¼-¤Vôh-¤W¾-¾-zBôh-q-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-hï¼-zÇkh-q-hP-ü hï-mÅ-Áï¾-h;¼-hÝ-zBôh-hïü ÇS¼-¾¤-zŸÛm-Gô-¤±ôm-n¤Å-Áï¾-h;¼-VôÅ-Çkï-hP-μôP-GZÛÅ- Þ̧P-£ï¾-¾- Û̄Å-ºzÞ¾-ŸÝÅ-Ç+zÅ-Gô-¤²ôh-DP-hÝ-ÇS¼-HÛ-¤hº-IÛ-hP-¤hÝP-ü ºÞ¼-lôü

Page 41: 14 mount-everest-dingri

19

¾ô-zTß-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-hÐ-yâG-h¤G-¤Û¼-ŸÝGÅ-qü 19

Fz-©ôG ¤ï-¤hºü μÅ-ÅôGÅ-hÝ-¤-¤fôP-ühÛP-¼Û¼-º‚ô¼-XïÅ-hÛP-¼ÛºÛ-‚P-M-DP-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-Å-V¼-M-h¤G-

ZÛÅ-zM-®¤-hP-ü fP-GÝP-Á¼-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-¿ËôºÛ-fP-hï¼-M-h¤G-zŸÛ-zM-®¤-º‚ô¼-mÅ-ÇK¼-wzü hÛP-¼ÛºÛ-Á¼-¼-Vß-G®P-qô-hP-ü mÝz-Mz-¼Û-»Ûm-qÅ-h¤G-ÇK¼-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-z¼-zTßG-ºhÝG-zŤ-‚ãP-ü M-h¤G-±ô-¤Û-Åï¼-HÛ-EÛ¤-Åô-Åô¼-»ôP-Çeï-Vß-Bï¾-z-hP-ü ¾Þh-zbz-q-ÅôGÅ-zôh-¤Û¼-¼ôGÅ-q-Ço-±ôGÅ-‚Å-bï-zôh-GŸÝP-GÛ-Gô-GmÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-¤Û-hP-xãG-zhG ±ôP-hqômü Lm-qôü ¤Û-IâP-qô-Lôh-qô-ÅÞ-»Ûm-zTÅ-¼ï-¼ï-mÅ-¯h-GTôh-¤f¼-xÛm-‚Åü

Page 42: 14 mount-everest-dingri

20

20 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

GÅÞ¤-qü

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü(1953-1958)

P-±ô-hÛP-h¤G-n¤Å-zôh-¤ÛºÛ-GÁïh-¤-M-h¤G-hP-hÝÅ-GP-ŸÛG-¾-Lô¾-º²ÛP-‚ïh-qºÛ-z;º-ŸÛG-¼P-GŸÝP-mÅ-wïzÅ-m-lj¤-Çeïü PP-ÇKÝG-‚Å-bï-GmÅ-¤Þ¼ü hÛP-¼Û-hP-Áï¾-h;¼-GZÛÅ-ÅÞ-GmÅ-Çkôh-hGº-¿km-hGôm-qºÛ-lôz-lôz-Í-¤hô-¤Gô-FÅü P-¾-GŸÛÅ-¯ï¼-&;Ým-G¸ÛGÅ-qa-Vïm-¼Ûm-qô-VïÅ-hÝÅ-ºDô¼-hzP-Vïm-GmP-GÛ-»ôh-qÅü Eïh-¼P-hÝÅ-ºDô¼-hzP-Vïm-ŸÝ-z-hP-VzÅ-TÛG-±ôP-G»ôG-»ôP-m-ºIÛG-G¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-qü PÅ-DÅ-„ÀPÅ-bï-¤Gô-F-hP-¤Z¤-hÝ-d-iï¾-hïh-mÅ-GŸÛÅ-¯ï¼-zBôh-hïü zhï-Vïm-wô-ƒP-hÝ-&;Ým-G¸ÛGÅ-qa-Vïm-¼Ûm-qô-VïºÛ-Ÿ¾-ÇS-mÅ-hq¾-hÝÅ- Û̂-ºDô¼-¾ôºÛ-hzP-Vïm-ŸÝÅ-ÁÛP-ü ±ôP- ô̧G-zbôm-mÅ-»¼-¾ôG hï-mÅ-z¸ÞP-P-hP-¤Gô-FºÛ-z¼-ºƒï¾-z-h¤-¸z-‚ãP-Çeï-¤Gô-F¼-z¸P-Pm-HÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-TÛ-ŸÛG-‚ãP-»P-P-¾-¼ï-¿eôÅ-‚ïhü

Page 43: 14 mount-everest-dingri

21

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 21

GÝÅ-±ô-ºDô¼-ŸG-»ôP-mÅ-¾ô-GTÛG-¿ËG-ºhÅ-ˆP-h¤G-ÇK¼-mÅ-z;º-GP-»P-¤ïh-qÅ-hqÞP-Å-ºôG-zTßG-qºÛ-ŸÛP-¾Å-¤-mÝÅ-ˆP-üºhÛ-¤Þ¼-Çkôh-fzÅ-¤ïh-Aïm-±ôP-¾Å-ÁÛG-GZï¼-hGôÅ-lj¤-Çeïü lô-±h-zhÝm-®¤-HÛ-¤-¯Å-¾ÞG-Zï¼-¿S-ZôÅ-ÁÛP-¿Ë-¯ï¼-hïh-hï-z®ôP-qÅ-Dï-z¸P-TßP-‚ãP-ü lô-±h-n¤Å-ͤ-yG-mP-¿kÝG-zŸÛm-ºIô-zºÛ-¾¤-z¼-h¤G-¼ôGÅ-¿Ë-¯ï-z-ÇeôzÅ-¾GÅ-fÞG-Çeïü Ç~G-¯ï-z¼-ºIô-ŸïÅ-zÁh-q-zŸÛm-xÛm-mÅ-ZÛm-¤±m-zŸÛ-Mm-¯ïh-¾-G»ïP-qÅ-¤-¯-hP-Dï-z¸P-zTÅ-Áô¼-bï| hPÞ¾-ÆP-¿S-¾Å-¤-¿ËG

EÛ¤-hÝ-¾ôG-fzÅ-ƒ¾-bï-GP-hÝ-»Þ¾-‚ô¾-¾-ºIô-zŤ-¤Þ¼ü hï-ÇSôm-M-G¼-BÛh-qºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-Gô-¥ôP-zÅ-M-G¼-hÝ-ºIô-Mã-fG-zTh-hïü¿Ë-¯ï-mÅ-Å-B-hP-ü ¿UÛ-¾ÞP-zMãh-wG-¼Û¼-º‚ô¼-hÝÅ-¾G-hPÞ¾-»ôh-±h-μôGÅü wG-¼Û¼-hÛP-¼ÛºÛ-h¤G-yâG-hq¾-Oôm-¯h-zTh-hï-GmÅ-G»¼-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü ÅP-ZÛm-¾Å-;-º±ô¾-Ç+zÅ-¤Û-ºE¤Å-»Ûm-qÅ-¾Å-;-vôh-¤Dm-¤-‚ãP-z-hP-ü ÇÀôP-¤-mÝÅ-qü Pô-ÁïÅ-¤-fÞG-q-zTÅ-ˆÛÅ-ZÛm-GTÛG-¿eôG-q¼-¾ÞÅ-q-zTÅ-TÛ-‚-¿eôÅ-ƒ¾-HÛ-GmÅ-ÅÞ-Hã¼ü

hGôP-¤ô-hï-GmÅ-¤ô-hq¾-Oôm-HÛ-EÛ¤-hÝ-¾ôG-mÅ-¤mô-zŤ-ŸÛG-GbôP-Ç+zÅ-xÛ-mÅ-Pô-ÁïÅ-GŸÛÅ-̄ ï-hP-„ÀP-Çtïm-q-hq¾-Oôm-HÛ-mP-hÝ-º²â¾-»ôP-ü P-¤fôP-z-hP-hGº-±ô¼-Vïm-qôÅ-º±¤Å-ºiÛ-‚Å-ÁÛP-G-hÝÅ-

Page 44: 14 mount-everest-dingri

22

22 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

»ôP-z-hP-ü GP-hÝ-ºIô-iÛÅ-‚ãP-zü PÅ-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-¾m-zbzü Çtïm-qÅ-P-¾-M-G¼-HÛ-ÇKô¼-¤ô-zTß-G»¼-bï-P-GZÛÅ-ÇKP-bôG-bà-»ôP-ü hï¼-ÇS¼-HÛ-„ÀôÅ-fÞz-h¤G-IôGÅ-zô-hôP-z-Lm-qô-zÅôh-m¤Å-z=-ÁÛÅ-hôÅ-Bï¾-z-‚ïh-TÛP-ºhÝG-qü P-GZÛÅ-º±ô-z-¤Z¤-Bï¾-‚-Mã-‚Å-bï-G»P-fP-;ô-^Û-¸ï¼-zºÛ-¤Iôm-DP-hÝ-zÇkhü hï-mÛ-iï¾-q-hP-¤Û-ÉïP-ü hôÅ-Bï¾-z-hÝ-¤-Çkôh-»Þ¾-ŸÛG-¼ïhü P-GZÛÅ-¤Z¤-hÝ-ÇKP-bôG-mÅ-¤¾-¾ï-Ÿï-GÅÞ¤-»ôh-qºÛ-Á¼-GÅÛP-¤-z¼-hôÅ-Bï¾-z¼-fïPÅ-GZÛÅ-zBôh-TÛP-üzBôh-fïPÅ-¼ï¼-M-G¼-HÛ-ÇKô¼-ZÛ-ÁÝ-fôzü

ZÛm-ŸÛG-G»P-fP-;ô-‡Û¼-G»Þ-fôG-GÛ-iï¾-hqôm-±-z-¼ôP-q-ŸÛG-fÞG-Çeïü P-GZÛÅ-wm-±ßm-Pô-vôh-‚Å-XïÅ-DôP-GÛÅ-P-¾-Eïh-¼P-P-±ôºÛ-iï¾-º±ô-z¼-ºIô-hGôÅ-ÁÛP-ü JÀ-V-iï¾-¼ï¼-Í-a-zŸÛ-¼ï-vh-Mã-hP-ü¤Z¤-hÝ-iï¾-q-GŸm-HÛ-iï¾-G-±ôh-º±ô-mºP-ºIÛG-TÛP-iï¾-¼ï¼-º±ô-JÀ-Í-a-iâG-¼ï-vh-ˆÛ-¼ïhü ÁÛP-mGÅ-ÆâP-¤ÛÅ-JÀïP-¿ËG-‚ãP-m-G»Þ-fôG-GÛ-iï¾-¼ïh-TïÅ-¾ôzÅ-hP-ü ºƒÅ-¿YôPÅ-M¾-qôºÛ-z®ßm-¤ô-G»Þ-fôG-GÛ-ÆÅ-¤ô-»Ûm-qÅ-XïÅ-ÅÞ-TÛ-»P-zÁh-ˆÛ-¤-¼ïh-TïÅ-¤PGÅü

PÅ-hï¼-¤ôÅ-¤fÞm-‚Å-bï-G»Þ-fôG-GÛ-iï¾-¾G-GÅÞ¤-hïh-hï-Ç~-ZG-Í-¤fÛP-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-Å-VºÛ-Zï-ºI¤-HÛ-ÇtP-GŸôPÅ-ÅÞ-iï¾-n¤Å-zbP-Çeïü xã-q-Å-ÇeïP-z=¤Å-mÅ-GZÛh-hÝ-»Þ¼-ŸÛP-ü GP-¤±¤Å-mÅ-»¼-

Page 45: 14 mount-everest-dingri

23

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 23

¾PÅ-Ç+zÅ-GhôP-hP-@P-¾G-±P-¤¼-ºzÞ-ŸÛG- Þ̧G-Çeï-G-±ôh-ºfïm-»P-¤-fÞz-q¼-TÛ-‚ïh-¤ïh-q¼-GmÅ-¤Þ¼ü M-G¼-HÛ-zÞh-¤ïh-TÛG-GÛÅ-¼Å-fÞ¤-ŸÛG-vh-hï-‚ãG-hGôÅ-qºÛ-zl-vh-qü hï-hôm-‚ãG-qÅ-ºzÞ-hï-n¤Å-¸GÅ-bï-Å-ÇeïP-FG-ºEÛ¾ü ¼Å-fÞ¤-hï-Ǩm-¯-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-bà-zŤÅ-mÅ-mP-hÝ-ºEï¼-bï-D-xï-Ç+zÅ-±Ð-¼ïh-ºhÝG-qÅ-¼P-ZÛh-GTÛG-qÞ¼-Gh-¤ô-hzP-¤ïh-hÝ-Áô¼ü

iï¾-n¤Å-±ßGÅ-ŸG-ZÛm-GÅÞ¤-¼ÛP-º±ôÅ-bï-G¸Û¤-ÁG-G»Þ-fôG-GÛ-iï¾-hqôm-hïÅ-VG-Bï¾-z¼-»ôP-hGôÅ-zÁh-q-zŸÛmü DÅ-„ÀPÅ-bï-P-hP-Lm-qô-zÅôh-m¤Å-z=-ÁÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-hô-qô-GTÛG-hP-xïh-(;Û-¾ô- 120)

¼ï-ºDÞ¼-bï-ÇKP-bôG-mÅ-¤¾-¾ï-zTô-¿SºÛ-Å-Çeï-Çtäm-hô¼-¤¾-¾ï-z¼-hô-qô-GTÛG-hP-xïh-hP-ü DôP-±ôÅ-¸ôG-n¤Å-Á¼-GÅÛP-¤-z¼-zB¾-bï-±ß¼-»ôP-Ç+zÅ-Vß-ºzÛ-fP-¾-hô-qô-GTÛG-hP-xïh-zB¾ü

P-±ôºÛ-¤Iôm-DP-G»P-fP-;Ý-^Û¼-GmÅ-Çkôh-iï¾-q-hP-ü P-hP-ºi-zºÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-¤ïh-qºÛ-¤Û-ºE¤Å-n¤Å-GTÛG-¾Å-GTÛG-Gbà¤-iG-Vï-»P-ü P-±ôºÛ-z¼-º±ô-z-Bï¾-±ß¾-ÅôGÅ-¤fÞm-qºÛ-xôGÅ-¤P-qô-»ôh-Aïm-wm-±ßm-IôGÅ-ºiÛÅ-VGÅü

ZÛm-ŸÛG-zh¾-Bï¾-zôGÅ-¤¼-¾ïm-¤Dm-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-JÀP-ÆÛm-zÞ-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-P-¾ü hï-¤ô-¼Ûm-qô-VïºÛ-wïzÅ-‡ô¾-ÇKP-bôG-mÅ-Á¼-GÅÛP-

Page 46: 14 mount-everest-dingri

24

24 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¤-z¼-zB¾-z¼-ºIôº¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-‚ãP-ü PÅ-G»P-fP-;ô-^ÛºÛ-IôGÅ-qô-wô-ÉïP-zTß-GZÛÅ-hP-IôÅ-‚Å-bïü hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¤ô-^¼-z¿e-z¼-zBôh-mÅ-ºEï¼-fÞz-¤Ûm-hP-ü ¤Û-G-±ôh-hGôÅ-¤Ûm-zTÅ-zdG-hrh-‚Å-qÅü zôh-hÝ-Vß-ºDô¼-HÛ-»Å-lô-¤Å-lô-ÅôGÅ-hzô¼-ÇePÅ-¿e¼-‚-m-¤-fÞz-q-¤ïh-q-ÁïÅ-bïü ¤Û-¼ï¼-JÀ-V-ÈÛm-ÇKô¼-ÅÞ¤-zM-hP-ü hï-¤ô-¼Ûm-qô-VïºÛ-GZï¼-qÅ-¾¤-z¼-HÛ-¸Å-hP-ü Qm-q-ÈÛm-ÇKô¼-ZÛÅ-ÇeôP-GmP-Mã-‚Å-bï-¤Û-zTß-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-fôG-ºzº-ZG-G¸Û¤-hqôm-HÛ-GmÅ-DP-hÝ-xÛm-bïü Eôm-¤Û-ºE¤-Zï¼-zŸÛ-zÇkÝÅü

¤Û-Zï¼-zŸÛ-mÛü Pô¼-hGôm-qºÛ-lôz-lôz-Pô¼-q-Íïm-VßP-ü GŸÛÅ-¯ï-hP-„ÀP-Çtïm-qü hGº-¿km-q-lôz-lôz-‚¤Å-VßP-ü hGº-¿km-q-lôz-lôz-Íïm-VßP-ü zô-hôP-q-¿ËG-VßP-ü z=Å-¿Ëàm-lôz-lôz-Çtïm-q-¤Gô-VïmüÇ+Ý-ÆâP-h¤G-¤Û-mô¼-zÞ-±ï-¼ÛP-ü zô-hôP-z-±ï-hzP-ü Åï-¼-z-lôz-lôz-EÛ-uP-ü zô-hôP-z-¿ËG-q-Vï-zü GŸÛÅ-¯ï-z-wÞ¼-zÞ-±ï-¼ÛP-ü qh-mG-q-wÞ¼-zÞ-ºz¼-±GÅü hÛP-¼Û-;ô-¿UGÅ-TßP-±ï-¼ÛP-ü zô-hôP-z-d-¤IÛmüÅï-¼-z-lôz-lôz-MGÅ-qü w-iâG-Vß-Á¼-¤±¤Å-¤hº-¿ËG-qü zô-GhôP-z-Lm-qô-zÅôh-m¤Å-z=-ÁÛÅü ¿UÛ-¾ÞP-¹-zü hGº-¿km-IÔ-I-G»z-‚¤Å-qü qh-mG-Çtïm-q-¸Å-VßP-zü GŸÛÅ-¯ï-wÞ¼-zÞ-MºÞü z=Å-¿Ëàm-lôz-lôz-Çtïm-q-±ï-¼ÛP-ü q-Ço¤-z=-zhÝm-zTÅ-¼ïhü

Page 47: 14 mount-everest-dingri

25

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 25

EôGÅ-ºEï¼-‚ïh-ÁÛP-GP-‚ãP-GÛÅ-¤Û-ºIÛG-q¼-«åG-GhôP-ºGº-M-G¼-¤hÝm-mÅ-ZôÅ-bïü ¤ô-^ºÛ-Oô¤-hP-ºyâ¾-ºDô¼-HÛ-¿Ëà-¾G-zÁÛG-Çeï-hzô¼-zºÛ-I-OÛG-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü ÇKP-bôG-mÅ-Á¼-GÅÛP-¤-z¼-HÛ-zh¾-Bï¾-z-n¤Å-¾-T-hPôÅ-hzô¼-Mã-®¤-¤Ûm-qºÛ-h;º-P¾-GŸm-ŸÛG-»ôh-q-mÛü ÇKP-bôG-mÅ-Á¼-GÅÛP-¤-z¼-HÛ-Å-¤±¤Å-hï-mÛ-zôh-M-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-±ôP-¾¤-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-hP-ü VzÅ-TÛG-zôh-M-GZÛÅ-;ºÛ-FÛ¤Å-¾-¿eôÅ-¤ïh-hqÞP-Áïh-zÇkݼ-źÛ-FÛ¤Å-ºG¾-z-GmÅ-Çkôh-‚ïh-źÛ-»Þ¾-ŸÛG-ˆP-¼ïhü

¿ËG-q¼-ÇKP-bôG-mÅ-Á¼-GÅÛP-¤-z¼-HÛ-ºIô-¾¤-GTÛG-qÞ-hï-fôG-hzP-Áïh-Vï-zºÛ-„À-¤-¤Û-iG-n¤Å-ˆÛ-iï¾-qÅü ºIâ¾-q¼-ºyôG-lÝP-zTô¤-GÅÞ¤-hP-ü f-m-¤Û-GŸm-HÛ-z¸º-¹-ºyôG-q-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-±zÅ-Vïm-hÝ-¤-¿ËG-GÛ-»ôhü Ç+zÅ-hï¼-iï¾-qºÛ-mP-mÅ-ˆP-hzP-ÁÝGÅ-hP-ÇeôzÅ-Vï-ÁôÅ-Iô-¤ô-Vß-ºzÛºÛ-iï¾-q-n¤Å-»Ûmü

hP-qô-zh¾-JÀ-zôGÅ-¤¼-¾ïm-¤Dm-P-¼P-»Ûm-qÅ-Gmh-hôm-hï-fôG-zŤ-„Àô-¤Û-GbP-;-¤ïh-»Ûm-Aïmü PÅ-DôP-±ô¼-¾¤-z¼-iï¾-q-n¤Å-hP-ºFâG-¯ôh-»ôP-Mã-Gbm-Dï¾-zÅü P-±ôÅ-Åï¤Å-fG-G®P-zTh-ˆÛÅ-GhôP-¾ïm-‚-Mã-¾Å-¾¤-GŸm-¤ïh-TÛP-ü ÆôG-„ÀôÅ-GbP-GÛÅ-Lô¾-º²ÛP-¤-‚Å-m-ÇÀh-xÛm-P-±ô-º±ô-z-Bï¾-fzÅ-ƒ¾-z-¼ïhü TïÅ-

Page 48: 14 mount-everest-dingri

26

26 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zÁh-qÅü DôP-±ô-GTÛG-¾Å-GTÛG-hqº-Vï-±ß¾-Çeôm-hGôÅ-q-Á-ÇeG-»Ûm-Aïm-¤ôÅ-¤fÞm-GP-¾ïGÅ-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü ¤Û-¼ï¼-hqº-h¤-ºhô¤Å-xïh-¼ï-hP-ü ºhôGÅ-IÛ-¼ï-GhGÅ-Mã-hP-ü bôG-¤-¼ï-Gż-hÝ-z¸ôÅü

P-±ôÅ-«åG-¤hôP-w¼-±ß¼-zÇoô¾-zºÛ-fôG-¤ô-‡ºÛ-Oô¤-zŸG-TÛP-xôGÅ-zŸÛºÛ-«åG-¤hôP-n¤Å-hP-¤ÛºÛ-Ç+ïh-q-¤Z¤-hÝ-zÇk¤ÅüP¾-GÅô-hÝÅ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-HÛ-Oô¤-Å-fôG-zŸG-m-»¼-ºHôGÅ-Ç+zÅ-h;º-P¾-È-TP-Vï-zÅü Å-fôG-¤-zŸG-q¼-bôG-¤Å-;-z-‚Å-mÅ-P¾-GÅôÅ-ˆÛ-»ôhü

P-±ôÅ-EôGÅ-ºEï¼-mÅ-fïPÅ-hÝ-¤¼-±ôh-¿e-‚Å-ÁÛP-GhïP-±ôh-½‰ïh-¤±¤Å-GŸÛ-mÅ-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-fôm-bïü ºƒÅ-¿YôPÅ-M¾-qôºÛ-wô-ƒP-zMãhü¤¾-¾ï-GZÛÅ-®¤-źÛ-fP-ÁÛP-hP-«åG-¤-ÇeàG-qºÛ-¼Û-ºhzÅ-ÇÀïzÅ-Ç+zÅ-iï¾-¾G-GZÛÅ-hïh-qºÛ-iï¾-q-GÅÞ¤-»ôP-ü PÅ-Ç+h-ˆÛÅ-iï¾-D-z;G-¼ôGÅü ¤-z;G-m-EôGÅ-ºIÛ¾-z-ºhÝG TïÅ-ºzôhü DôP-±ôÅ-ÇoP-ºWôG-Çtä-®¤-¤ïh-q¼-iï¾-ºÞ¼-h=ôGÅ- Û̂Å-¤Þ-¤fÞh-hïh-qÅ-P-±ôºÛ-EôGÅ-ºIÛ¾ü h-hÝP-zŸh-ºx-zü PÅ-¤VôPÅ-hGôÅ-qºÛ-zl-vh-q-hP-P-±ôºÛ-wô-Lôh-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-¼Þz-lÝP-vh-hïü ÁÛ-¤Ûm-¼ô-¤Ûm-z¸ôÅ-Ç+zÅ-Í-¼-ÍÞ-¼Þ-hP-ü fÞGÅ-XïÅ-G¸ÛGÅü ±ï-f¼-»ôP-zü ŸïÅ-qºÛ-O-¾Å-GP-»P-‚ïh-Mã-¤ïh-q¼-Hã¼ü P-±ôÅ-JÀôh-Ç+zÅ-ˆP-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛ-ŸÐ-¤ô-

Page 49: 14 mount-everest-dingri

27

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 27

»P-zOæGÅ-¤Û-wôh-q¼-GTÛG-¾Å-GTÛG-¤HôGÅ-q¼-ƒôÅüP-±ôºÛ-ºFâG-¸ÛP-hP-qô-hï-mÅ-ºGô-±ßGÅ-bïü ¾¤-z¼-iï¾-

qºÛ-±ô-DG-zTß-hGÝ-fÞG-q-±ôGÅ-DG-¼ï¼-ºFâG-q-¼ï-Áô¼-»P-ü P-±ôºÛ-ÁôG-DG-n¤Å-»-¤ïh-wô-ÉïP-AP-»Ûm-Aïm-ºFâG-¸ÛP-f¤Å-Th-¾-P-±ô¼-M¾-D-fôz-TÛP-ü ¤ô-‡-¾ïGÅ-Iâz-PP-zB¾-bï-ÇKP-bôG-mÅ-Á¼-GÅÛP-¤-z¼-HÛ-¾¤-GTÛG-qÞ-hïºÛ-fôG-EôGÅ-Bï¾-zºÛ-¾ïºÞ-Gż-q-ŸÛG-P-±ôÅ-Gbôh-qÅü P-±ôºÛ-zh¾-Bï¾-HÛ-ljm-IGÅ-hïºÛ-DÞ¾-Ez-Çeï-ÇKï¼-HÛ-Ç~G-Ç~G-ºDô¼-¾ô-hP-ü zôh-GŸÝP-GÛ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-Ÿï-IPÅ-®¤-zTÅ-¼Û¤-qÅ-zbôm-ŸÛP-ü P-±ô-ºV¤-¤fÞm-HÛ-¤Û-Zï¼-zŸÛ-BÛh-ÇkÝG-¤Z¤-¥ôP-‚ïh-qºÛ-±ôGÅ-q-ŸÛG-bà-Hã¼-q-hP-ü ¤-zÇ+ôÅ-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-¼P-ZÛh-hïºÛ-ºGô-º²Ûm-hÝ-Hã¼ü

P-±ôºÛ-±ôGÅ-qºÛ-mP-IÔ-ż-hqï-V-¿e-¤-NÛh-TÛP-VôÅ-FÛ¤Å-ºDÞ¼-¤-fÞz-qºÛ-lôz-lôz-hP-ü zôh-GŸÝP-GÛ-h¤G-FÛ¤Å-ºDÞ¼-¤-fÞz-qºÛ-h¤G-¾ôG ±ß¾-¤fÞm-HÛ-EÛ¤-BôP-hP-ŸÛP-ºƒôG-¾Å-¤-mÝÅ-qºÛ-¤Û-ºE¤Å-zTÅ-»Ûm-»P-ü P-±ôºÛ-±ôGÅ-¤Û-n¤Å-ÇSôm-¿e¼-ºyôG-zTô¤-‚ïh-¤-hGôÅ-q¼-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-h;º-P¾-uh-qºÛ-¾G-hPÞ¾-GbôP-Mã-»ôh-TÛP-ü fïPÅ-hP-qôºÛ-ºIâ¾-zŸÝh-Ç+zÅ-Bï¾-ºiïm-hP-ºFâG-º²ÛP-GZÛÅ-;¼-Ç+h-IGÅ-Vôh-hïü ºÞh-Áôz-Vï-zºÛ-iï¾-q-n¤Å-ˆP-ºW¤-fÛP-Pï¼-¾¤-z¼-P-±ôÅ-

Page 50: 14 mount-everest-dingri

28

28 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

;Û-ŸÛG-ºhïzÅ-Ç+zÅ-Å-V-hï-G¼-±ßGÅ-;ï¼-¤Û-Çkôh-;-¤ïh-¼ïhü hï-¿e¼-Ç+zÅ-ÁÛG-¼ÛP-ÇKP-bôG-mÅ-Á¼-GÅÛP-¤-z¼-P-±ôÅ-hzP-Nå¼-z-¿e-zÞ-‚Å-q-hP-ü P-±ôºÛ-EôGÅ-ZÛm-¼ï-¤¾-¾ï-¿S-¼ï-zBôh-TÛP-hï-mÅ-VP-ºfÞP-hP-ŸzÅ-ƒôºÛ-PP-¤±m-xïh-z¼-Çkôh-ˆÛ-»ôhü P-±ôºÛ-IôGÅ-qô-lôz-lôz-n¤Å-ˆÛ-GŸÅ-±ÛG-¾ü

Á¼-¼Û-h=ôG-h=ôG-‚Å-mÅü ümÝz-¼Û-ºzÞh-zˆG-¤-GbôP-üüÁ-hP-Áïh-¤ô-»ôh-mü üzÁÅ-¼ºÛ-mP-¾-¤VôPÅ-ÁôGüÇo-f-Åï¼-qô-GÅï¼-¼ïhü üf-¾-h;¼-qô-hPÞ¾-¼ïhüüP-¼P-ºfïm-Mã-¤-GbôGÅü üGŸm-¾-vh-Mã-¤Ûm-môüüŸïÅ-hP-üÁ¼-GÅÛP-©âG-qºÛ-hˆÛ¾-mü ü©ô-zô-¤±¤Å-GTôh-»ôh-¼ïhüüGmÅ-±P-BÛh-qô-hGôÅ-mü ü©ô-zô-¤±¤Å-GTôh-º±ô¾-ÁôGüTïÅ-P-±ôºÛ-mP-mÅ-ÅÞÅ-z¯¤Å-¤Û-ÁïÅ-qºÛ-GŸÅ-ÁÛG-ˆP-mP-

DÞ¾-Ez-»ôh-q-hï-mÛü P-±ô-zôh-xôGÅ-ºIô-Ç+zÅ-Á¼-GÅÛP-¤¼-©ô-zô-¤±¤Å-GTôh-ˆÛ-¤hÝm-GmÅ-±P-G»¼-zºÛ-zMãh-¼Û¤-mP-ü P-±ôÅ-©ô-zô-¤±¤Å-GTôh-¾-GhïP-G-±ôh-»ôh-¤Ûm-±h-¤W¾-HÛ-fÛG-¾ïm-¿e-zÞºÛ-GŸÅ-ÁÛG-¼ïhü ±ÛG-hï-xÛÅ-ÅÞ-h¤PÅ-Fôh-ˆÛ-GŸÅ-ÁÛG-hP-ü Áô-zÁh-hÝ-Hã¼-»ôh-q-mÛ-zhG-hP-IôGÅ-qô-n¤Å-ˆÛ-„Àô-»Þ¾-¾Å-ºhÅ-ˆP-ü Ç+Ý-

Page 51: 14 mount-everest-dingri

29

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 29

ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-h¤PÅ-GŸÅ-hP-ü Áô-zÁh-Ç+zÅ-±ÛG-hï-GÅm-m-GŸÅ-±ÛG-hïºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-Mz-¿YôPÅ-im-®¤-GmP-¼ôGÅü

ÇKP-bôG-bà-º±ô-z-Bï¾-zºÛ-¼P-ZÛh-hP-¤ÛG-ºiÛÅ-»ôh-q-M¾-¯ï-z-z¸º-±ô-GZÛÅ-mÅ-zÞh-¤ïh-hï-¾ô-m-Zï¼-¿S-®¤-hP-G¸ÞGÅ-‚h-hP-ü PP-±ß¾-zTÅ-¼P-zŸÛm-ÇKïG-¤ôºÛ-Eh-VôÅ-V-±P-¿km-ŸÛP-ü hÝÅ-dG-bà-Pïh-¾-h¤ÛGÅ-zž-º²â¤-¤hPÅ-ÁÛG-Çeôm-qÅü hï-mÅ-¼Û¤-HÛÅ-wm-±ßm-JÀïP-¤ô¾-hP-¤±¼-Gb¤-Áôh-¼ïÅ-‚Å-bï-¤ôºÛ-¤ÛP-¾-Çtïm-q-¤±¤Å-GTôh-¸ï¼-z-ÁïÅü

z¼-ŸÛG-bà-Çtïm-q-¤±¤Å-GTôh-ˆÛÅ-Pïh-¾-z¯ï-z-Vï-±ß¾-hP-ü±ï-ºhÛ¼-º±ô-z-¤Z¤-hÝ-zB¾-MãºÛ-¼ï-z-zbôm-‚ãP-zÅü PÅ-Eôh-¾-z¸º-¹-»ôh-qÅ-hï-¿e¼-‚Å-m-±ß¾-¿km-ŸÛG-¤Ûm-qÅ-ºIÛG-GÛ-¤-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-ˆP-ü z¸º-¹ºÛ-Bôm-hÝ-¤-ŸÛG-zXôh-hï-„Àô- ï̄-GTÛG-GÛÅ-P-¾-z ï̄-z-zTPÅ-qºÛ-iP-Gb¤-Áôh-q-PÅ-ˆP-DÅ-„ÀPÅ-bïü T-hPôÅ-TÛ-»P-ºEï¼-Mã-¤ïh-q-hP-ü P-GZÛÅ-„Àô-¤fÞm-xÛm-ºFâG-¯ôh-‚ãP-Çeï-z®ôm-hÝ-º±ßh-ˆP-ºHôh-q-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü

ZÛm-ŸÛG-GÛ-hGôP-iô-Å-ÆÛz-¾-P-hP-¼ôGÅ-q-ºGº-z¼-ºE¤Å-ÅÞ-@Ýz-ÇeïGÅ-fôG-zÇkh-hï-¹-ºôh-ºôG-JÀïP-¤ô¾-‚ïh-qºÛ-Ç+zÅü xÛ-ÇKô-z®Û¼-O-hP-zTÅ-xï-‚ãP-z-z¿eÅ-qÅ-Çtïm-q-¤±¤Å-GTôh-È-TP-¼ÛP-zºÛ-

Page 52: 14 mount-everest-dingri

30

30 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¿UP-¾ô-GZÛÅ-Mz-bà-JÀôh-mÅ-T-hPôÅ-GP-»P-¤-ºEï¼-z¼-PºÛ-mP-º²â¾-»ôP-ü hï-mÅ-z¸ÞP-Çtïm-q-¤±¤Å-GTôh-P-hP-z¸º-±ô-£ï¾-mÅ-zÇkh-ˆP-z¸º-¹-½‰ÛP-qÅ-P-¾-Lô¾-JÀïP-GP-»P-¤-mÝÅü

PºÛ-¼ôGÅ-q-GŸm-hP-¤±ßPÅ-q¼-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛ-º±ô-z¼-h¤ÛGÅ-zž-»¼-MÅ-xÛm-qÅ-d-iï¾-zŸÛ-hP-ü zôP-zÞ-GZÛÅ-ZôÅ-ÁÛP-G»ôG-qô-GTÛG-Z¼-bï-zh¾-JÀ-MãGÅ-zTßG-mÅ-JÀ-n¤Å-Çtïm-q-¤±¤Å-GTôh-ˆÛÅ-¯ÛÅ-„ÀPÅ-q-hP-ü P-¼P-GÛÅ-P-±ô-±ôGÅ-qºÛ-ºGô-ºFÛh-¤Þ-¤fÞh-‚ïh-zŸÛm-qºÛ-Ç+zÅ-bïü P-±ô-zôh-GŸÝP-GÛ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-Á¼-GÅÛP-¤-z¼-zB¾-mÅ-GmÅ-±P-©ô-zô-¤±¤Å-GTôh-ˆÛ-EÛ¤-hÝ-¿Ëôh-qô¼-Çkôh-qºÛ-¼ïÅ-G¸º-ZÛ-¤ºÛ-xïh-»ô¾-ŸÛG-¾ü lôz-C-zŸG-qºÛ-IÔ-q-G¸ÞGÅ-±h-hP-¿km-q-¾ô-Zï¼-¿S-®¤-Åôm-q-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-P-±ôºÛ-¼ôGÅ-q-±ï-¼ÛP-h=ôG-h=ôG-GÛ-ƒP-D-mÅ-z¸ÞP-mÅ-ÇÀïzÅ-bïü ±ï-¼ÛP-h=ôG-h=ôG-GÛÅ-P-¾-Í-Tô-PG-hzP-PÅ-‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-Dô-¼P-¾-¹-z-GZÛÅ-GôP-M-G¼-ÇKô¼-Zï¼-¿S-G»¼-mÅü XïÅ-ÅÞ-BÛm-±z-vh-Mã-zÁh-ˆP-DôÅ-P-Çkôh-zTßG-GÛ-¤Û-ºhÝG-TïÅ-¸ï¼ü PÅ-lôz-lôz-hï¼-DôÅ-XïÅ-ÅÞ-vh-ˆÛ-»Ûm-Áôh-q-G»¼-±¼-mÅ-»Ûh-VïÅ-‚ïh-hGôÅ-zÁh-ˆP-ü lôz-lôz-hïÅ-Zm-ºWôG-Çtä-®¤-¤ïh-q¼-Ço-ÁÝ-hP-zTÅ-w-¼ô-z¸º-Mã-ŸïÅ-±ï-¼ÛP-h=ôG-h=ôG-GÛ-ºƒ¾-ÇtP-ºyôG-¯ÛÅ-‚ïh-Ç+zÅü PÅ-hï-¿e¼-‚Å-m-Eïh-¼P-WG-q-¼ïhü

Page 53: 14 mount-everest-dingri

31

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 31

GºÞ-P-±ôÅ-ºyôG-zTßG-GÛ-¤-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-qÅü ±ß¼-Eïh-DÅ-¾ïm-q-»Ûm-m¤-¸ï¼ü PÅ-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zÁh-qÅ-Dô-qÅ-¾G-G»ôm-HÛÅ-PºÛ-ƒP-mÅ-z¸ÞP-ŸÛP-G»Å-ˆÛÅ-IÛ-»Þ-¤mmü PÅ-ˆP-Dô-qºÛ-ƒP-mÅ-z¸ÞP-ŸÛP-Ç+ïh-IÛºÛ-»Þ-z-mÅ-¾G-GÛÅ-z¸ÞP-Ç+zÅü z¼-¤Û-‚ïh-¤Dm-¤ÛÅ-G»Å-G»ôm-DïPÅ-bï-P-GZÛÅ-z Þ̧P-mÅ-Åô-Åô¼-z=¾-z-hP-ü hïºÛ-h Û̂¾-HÛ-¤Û-G¸ÞGÅ-¼ÛP-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-FÛh-ÅôP-z-PÅ-hï-¼ÛP-P-GZÛÅ-±h-zÇkݼ-»G-qô-¤-‚ãP-»P-XïÅ-bm-bm-fÞG-GÛ-¼ïhü ZÛm-hï¼-P-GZÛÅ-D-Vh-zŸÛm-GbàG-VôG-HÛÅ-ŸïÅ-ºzôh-qÅü Dô-qÅ-»×-»×ü P-GZÛÅ-G-hÝÅ-GbàG-ˆP-ºIÛG-TïÅ-¾m-zbzü

»Þh-®¤-mÅ-‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-ºFÛh-¤Dm-¤Û-hï-±ß¼-»ôP-mÅ-D¤Å-Ç+h- Û̂Å-P-¾¤-z ô̧-zºÛ-ºGô-ºFÛh-»Ûm-q-hP-ü ‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-P-±ôºÛ-¾Å-¤Û-¼ïhü Dô-q-FÛ¤Å-¤ïh-¾ÞGÅ-¤ïh-»Ûm-qÅ-PÅ-¤¼-ºwÞh-VôG hï-mÅ-TÛ-‚ïh-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-z¿e-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-hï-zÞhü

ZÛm-ŸÛG-P-±ô-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-HÛ-¤-Ghm-Eï¼-mÅ-ºIô-Ç+zÅ-¤±ô-ŸÝGÅ-zL¾-®¤-¾-EôGÅ-̂ Û-ÇSôm-zBôh-q-GŸÛÅ-̄ ï-hP-„ÀP-Çtïm-qÅü ‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-»ôP-GÛ-ºhÝG-TïÅ-ºzôh-‚ãP-ü PÅ-EôGÅ-wôzÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-hï-I-OÛG-‚Å-mÅ-¤hÝm-hÝ-fômü ‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-hP-lôz-lôz-zŸÛ-ºhÝG-q-PÅ-D-ÅïP-GbàG-¯ÛÅ-HÛÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-q-zŸÛm-I-OÛG-»ôh-PïÅ-

Page 54: 14 mount-everest-dingri

32

32 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

»Ûm-ŸïÅü ƒP-D-mÅ-z¸ÞP-Çeï-IÛ-»Þ-¤mm-qÅ-Dô-qÅ-ˆP-Ç+ïh-IÛ-zbôm-VôG-ÍP-zż-‚Åü PÅ-¾¤-ÅïP-IÛ-zbz-qÅ-Dô-qºÛ-¾G-G»Å-q¼-IÛ-¿eG-ºwôG-mÅ-IÛ-Å-¾-¸GÅü ¼ôGÅ-q-lôz-lôz-GÅÞ¤-hï-lôz-C-hP-@Ýz-ÅÞ¾-¾ÛP-¾ÛP-G»ÞGÅ-ÁÛP-xÛ¼-z¿eÅ-¤ïh-q¼-ƒôÅü PÅ-IÛ-ÁÝz-mP-zTßG-mÅ-Dô-q¼-lô-lÝP-Gmh-ÇÛ̈m-zbP-Çeï-ÁÛ-¤Ûm-¼ô-¤Ûm-z ô̧Å-bï-hô¼ü XïÅ-ÅÞ-hïºÛ-Zï-ºI¤-HÛ-ƒG-wÞG-bà-Dô-q-ZÛm-GÅÞ¤-zhG-¤ïh-¿ËG-±ß¾-fôÅü

‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-ÇKP-bôG-bà-»ôP-mÅ-Ǩm-zTôÅ-‚Å-XïÅ-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-GÛÅ-IÔ-źÛ-lôz-lôz-n¤Å-GbàG-q¼-ÁôG-zXôh-±ß¾ü Gb¤-ºV¾-z=¤Å-mÅ-zh¾-Bï¾-z-hP-ÇezÅ-TÛG-P-±ôºÛ-ºIm-»¼-IÔ-źÛ-lôz-lôz-Zï¼-zŸÛºÛ-±ôGÅ-q-Gż-q-ŸÛG-z ô̧Å-bïü P-±ôÅ-Dï-z¸P-¾ïGÅ-qºÛ-zh¾-JÀ-ŸÛG-zB¾-mÅ-n¤-ÇoP-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-Å-V¼-fÞGÅ-vô-ZÛm-GÅÞ¤-GbôP-¼ÛP-ü ‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ- Û̂Å-zbP-zºÛ-Íïm-VßP-±ï-¼ÛP-wÞm-±ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-qÅ-P-¾-»Û-Gï-ŸÛG-zB¾ü »Û-GïºÛ-mP-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-¹-z-zŸÛ-qºÛ-±ïÅ-zTô-¿S¼-n-fôÅ-¾¼-GbàG-q¼-»ôP-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-ºDôh-qÅü Çeôm-¤ô-±¼-XïÅ-hÝÅ-z;G-hP-zÇeàm-mÅ-P-±ôÅ-EôGÅ-VßP-PÞ-ŸÛG-z¸ôÅ-bï-¤Û-zTß-GZÛÅ-EôGÅ-ºEï¼-¤Dm-hP-zTß-GZÛÅ-MG-¼ïÅ-MG-¤Dm-hÝ-zÇ+ôÅü

PÅ-P-±ôºÛ-¤Û-n¤Å-¾-G®ô-Vï-ÁôÅ-P-hP-‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-Dï¼-º²ÛP-‚-Mã-»Ûm-qÅ-Dô-q-±ôÅ-¾G-¼Þz-¤-zMz-m-w¼-Lô¾-º²ÛP-

Page 55: 14 mount-everest-dingri

33

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 33

¤-‚ïh-TïÅ-¤PGÅ-»ôhü n-fôÅ-¾ºÛ-±ß¼-mP-P-±ôÅ-ZÛm-GTÛG-ÇKÝG-q-hP-hï-XïÅ-EôGÅ-hP-EôGÅ-ºEï¼-¤Dm-n¤Å-¾-¯ï¼-zŸG-mÅ-±ß¼-»ôP-Çeï-ZÛm-GTÛG-ÇKÝG-̂ P-»ôP-¤Dm-»ï-¤ïhü ÅP-ZÛm-¾-¯ï-mÅ-EôGÅ-ºEï¼-mÅ-Í-»ï-h‚PÅ-¾GÅ-ˆÛ-Å-V¼-ºIô-Ç+zÅü wÞ-VߺÛ-¸¤-qºÛ-¸Þ¼-mÅ-lôz-lôz-iâG-»ôP-z-P-±ô-¤Û-zTß-GZÛÅ-¤¼-xÛm-bï-PÅ-‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-ˆÛ-ƒP-mÅ-z¸ÞP-Çeïü ¤Û-¤P-MG-¼ïÅ-MG-hGôÅ-¤ïhüP-GZÛÅ-fÞG-q-¼ïhü P-GZÛÅ-fG-GTôh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-Áôh-Ç+zÅ-Dô-qÅ-P-MG-¼ïÅ-MG-bà-»ôP-¤ïhü P-;Ý-¼Þ¤-(lôz-lôz-ˆÛ-¾ôG-Ç+hü hôm-hÝ-hGôPÅ-hG-)ŸÝ-z¼-»ôP-z-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-Áôh-q-hP-ü ¼ôGÅ-q-GŸm-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-ˆP-hï-¿e¼-¤Û-‚ïh-TïÅ-Áôh-¤Þ¼ü Í-»ï-h‚PÅ-¾GÅ-»ôP-mÅ-Eïh-±ô-MG-¼ïÅ-zMG-mÅ-¤Û-GÅôh-‚ãP-mü P-Iô-uÛ¼-fÞG-GÛ-¼ïhü TïÅ-xG-HP-ºHï¾-z-zŸÛm-º±¾-mÅ-ŸÝ-z-ºfïm-q-P-±ôÅ-Zm-bïü Í-»ï-h‚PÅ-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-mP-hÝ-VP-ºfÞP-IôGÅ-OÛG-‚ïh-q¼-ºIô-hGôÅ-±ß¾-±P-¤Å-zÁh-‚ãP-z-zŸÛm-xÛmü

Í-»ï-h‚PÅ-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-Å-ºhÛ¼-¤Û-GÅôh-¤-‚ãP-z-hï-¼P-GÛÅ-ºIÛGÅ-ÅôPü ŸïÅ-Í-¼G-wz-qü DôP-±ôÅ-zbàP-mÅ-P-±ô-IôGÅ-qô-‚ïh-hGôÅ-±ß¾-¤P-hG-zÁhü P-¼P-Mãm-hÝ-VP-¼G-ºfÞP-GÛ-¤ïh-qÅ-W-zbàP-mÅ-hGôP-GTÛG-¤Z¤-hÝ-zÇkhü

Page 56: 14 mount-everest-dingri

34

34 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

hï-XïÅ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-GÛ-ZÛm-GÝP-P-ÇKP-bôG-GÛ-¾¤-Vïm-HÛ-¸Þ¼-mÅ-GTÛG-qÞ¼-ºIô-Ç+zÅü ‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-¼-z¸Û-mÅ-ºEô¼-zŸÛm-PºÛ-¤hÝm-mÅ-¤¼-zBôhü P-¾¤-GÅÞ¤-¤hô¼-º‚ô¼-Ç+zÅ-‚¤Å-VßP-lôz-C-¸ÛP-¸ÛP-PP-hˆÛ¾-¾¤-mÅ-»¼-MãGÅ-»ôP-ü PºÛ-Åï¤Å-mP-ºFâG-q-Áô¼-z-fG-Vôh-zŤ-mÅ-ºFâG-q-Áô¼-mÅ-HôP-ºwôG-¤Ûm-iÛÅ-q-HôP-ºwôG-¤-‚ãP-ü Í-wô-P-GZÛÅ-mP-hÝ-ºIô-ŸïÅ-mP-hÝ-ºFÛh-mÅ-‚¤Å-VßP-GÛÅ-zÁh-qü P-Dô-±ôºÛ-¤hÝm-Ç~G-¯ïh-q¼-ºIô-Ç+zÅü ‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-¼-z¸Û-mÅ-»ôP-Çeïü È-»P-ŸÛG-¾-IÛ-zbz-mÅ-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-fôm-ÁôG-¸ï¼-mÅ-Ç+h-zMzü

PÅ-Eïh-¼P-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-fÞG-hÝÅ-¤ÛG-ˆP-¿e-¤Û-mÝÅ-q¼-¤Û-¤ïh-hÝÅ-hï-¿e¼-‚Å-mÅ-wm-q-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-qÅü ‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-ˆÛÅ-Eïh-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-GÛ-MãG-EÛ-ÍP-hP-qô-hï-¼ïhü TïÅ-IÛ-¾m-GZÛÅ-G»ÞGÅ-ˆP-P-Zïm-D-¾Å-G»ô¾-fÞzü h-hÝP-‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-ˆÛÅ-hô¤-«ôm-zŸÛm-PºÛ-ÇeïP-Áô¼-»ôP-z-PºÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-GmÅ-±ß¾-»G-qô-ŸÛG-¤Û-»ôP-z-fG-Vôh-hïü w¼-IÛ-¾m-GTÛG-zbz-ˆP-¤-ºwôG-qÅ-xÛ-¼ô¾-hÝ-ƒôÅ-bï-HP-¼ô-ŸÛG-GÛ-Mz-bà-»ÛzÅ-mÅ-¿+ôG-¿e-‚ïh-Ç+zÅü‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-IÛ-¾G-q¼-z¸ÞP-ŸÛP-P-M¾-Vïm-qôÅ-Áô¼-»ôP-z-PÅ-Mz-mÅ-¤VôPÅ-bï-GhôP-¾-IÛ-Gmh-hÝ-zbz-qÅü ‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-

Page 57: 14 mount-everest-dingri

35

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 35

Ç+h-Pm-hP-zTÅ-Å-¾-ºIÛ¾-z-hï-mÅ-ƒôÅ-»ôP-z-»Ûmü w¾-Vï¼-P-z®ôm-DP-¾-zTßG-GÛ-¼ïh-¸ï¼ü

P-GZÛÅ-W-ºfÞP-zŸÛm-hôm-Gmh-hï-¾Å-G»ô¾-fzÅ-IôÅ-¤ô¾-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-ÇKô-lÝP-‚ãP-zü GmÅ-±P-ºzº-ZG-G¸Û¤-hqôm-hP-P-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-ÇKô-xï-mÅ-xÛ¼-fôm-Ç+zÅü ‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-ˆÛ-IôGÅ-qô-lôz-lôz-zŸÛÅ-¾¤-Çoï-FÛh-hï-Zïm-dôGÅ-q-GZÛÅ-ÇÀïzÅ-mÅ-‚¤Å-VßP-GP-hÝ-»ôh-h¤-¸ï¼ü PÅ-TÛ-‚Å-Ťü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-qÅ-‚¤Å-VßP-GÛÅ-‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-ˆÛ-ºI¤-q¼-IÛ-zbz-Çeï-¸Å-ˆP-¤-±ôGÅ-Ç+ô¼-zÁhü

PÅ-‚¤Å-VßP-h-¿e-¤-ÇÀïzÅ-ˆP-ÅP-ZÛm-¯ÛÅ-vh-VôG-TïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü lôz-lôz-GTÛG-GÛÅ-bm-bm-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-DÅ-MG-‚ïh-fÞz-z¤üŸïÅ-iÛÅ-‚ãP-zü PÅ-±-»Û-DÅ-MG-zÞ¾-bôG-»Ûmü ¿ËG-qÅ-ºEï¼-m-ºEï¼-¤Z¤-»Ûmüü ŸïÅ-q-¿e¼-ÅP-ZÛm-‚¤Å-VßP-¯ÛÅ-vh-¤-fÞz-mü P-G¸ÞP-AP-HÛÅü ŸïÅ-zÁh-qÅ-ºIÛG-GÛ-¼ïh-TïÅ-¾ôG-xÛmü(Ç+zÅ-hï¼-Zïm-dôG-q-DP-qºÛ-mP-º²â¾-VôG-GÛ-¤ïhü) hGôP-¤ô-hï-PÅ-ºƒÅ-¿YôPÅ-M¾-qôºÛ-m-z¸º-Vïm-¤ô-z-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-z-hzÞ-hzP-IGÅ-¾GÅ-ˆÛ-¤hÝm-xÛm-mÅ-GmÅ-±ß¾-zÁh-hïü ‚¤Å-VßP-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-ºIô-¤Û-hGôÅ-qºÛ-¼ôGÅ-¤²h-qºÛ-¼ï-z-zbôm-qÅü DÅ-¾ïm-GP-¸z-GmP-Çeï-P-GZÛÅ-Zïm-dôG-q-G®ô-zô-hïºÛ-¤hÝm-xÛm-bïü DôP-GÛÅ-¼ôGÅ-q-»ôP-

Page 58: 14 mount-everest-dingri

36

36 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

z-ŸïÅ-ŸÝÅ-qÅ-Zïm-dôG-q-hïÅ-ÅP-ZÛm-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-zB¾-®¤-HÛÅühï-mÅ-¾¤-ÅïP-JÀôh-VôG-TïÅ-zÁhü

PÅ-ÅP-ZÛm-Vß-±ôh-hGÝ-q¼-‚¤Å-VßP-FÛh-hï-Zïm-dôG-¾Å-DÞPÅ-ÅÞ-¯ÛÅ-vh-qÅ-‚¤Å-VßP-¾-¾G-¿UGÅ-zMz-Çeïü z®ôm-DP-mP-zTßGHôh-»¼-vh-MãºÛ-©-GÅôºÛ-FG-¾m-ÈÛm-ÇKô¼-¿S-PÅ-hzÞ-hzP-IGÅ-¾-vh-¼ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-¤PGÅ-bïü ¼P-ZÛh-GmÅ-±P-hÝ-¾ôG-mÅ-Vß-±ôh-zŸÛ-q-®¤-¾-‚¤Å-VßP-º²â¤-¤hPÅ-hP-zTÅ-EÛ¤-hÝ-º²â¾-»ôP-ü

hï-mÅ-hÝÅ-»Þm-GP-¤±¤Å-GÛ-¤±m-¤ô-ŸÛG-P-±ô-¼ôGÅ-q-zTß-iâG-®¤-GmÅ-±P-GÛ-G»z-ÇeïP-hÝ-JÀôG-ºôh-¾-zÇeïm-mÅ-GP-zŤ-Áôh-TÛP-ü GP-BÛh-qºÛ-PP-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-Vß-±ôh-zTß-GTÛG-®¤-¾-xÛ-¼ô¾-mÅ-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-¤¼-fôm-ÁôG P-lôz-lôz-wÞm-±ôGÅ-M-¤±ô-wôh-(lôz-lôz-ˆÛ-¾ôG-Ç+hü hôm-hÝ-ºFâG-qü)zMG-q¼-»ôP-zÅ-n¤-ÇoP-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-‚P-fP-hÝ-ºIô-hGôÅü ŸïÅ-Ç+h-ÁÝGÅ-Vïm-qôÅ-ºzôhü

wÞm-±ôGÅ-M-¤±ô-hP-ym-z¼-wm-±ßm-ÇKï¼-HÛ-ºDôm-º²Ûm-TÛ-»P-¤ïh-ˆP-Dô-q-‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-ÅôGÅ-lôz-lôz-n¤Å-ˆÛ-ºGô-G®ô-»Ûm-qÅü PÅ-IÛ-hP-¤±ôm-ÆâP-HP-¿kïzÅ-mÅ-¤¼-wz-Çeï-¾ÞÅ-¾-zbGÅ-ÁÛP-mP-ÇKô-mÅ-¤¼-fôm-bï-ÇKô-¼-xÛ-¤¼-º‚ô¼-Ç+zÅü ºzº-ZG-G¸Û¤-hqôm-GmÅ-¤ô-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-z;G-mÅ-¯-z-mÅ-¤Û-GbôP-zü

Page 59: 14 mount-everest-dingri

37

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 37

PÅ-wÞm-±ôGÅ-M¾-qô¼-Ç+h-ˆÛÅ-ºzôh-hï-P-h-¿e-GmÅ-¤ô-hP-ü IôGÅ-qôÅ-GbP-GÛ-¤Û-ºhÝG-ˆP-ÅP-ZÛm-m¤-¤-¾PÅ-GôP-Eïh-ˆÛ-¤hÝm-»ôP-Mã-»Ûmü P-GZÛÅ-zôh-MºÛ-Å-¤±¤Å-n-fôÅ-¾¼-xÛm-mÅ-GTÛG-¤ïh-q-hP-GTÛG-»ôh-q-z¸ôÅ-VôG-TïÅ-zÁhü DôÅ-ˆP-Ç+h-GÅP-¤fôm-qôÅ-ºIÛG-GÛ-¼ïhü Í-¼ôGÅü hI-¤-fÞz-xG-M-zTº-z-¾Åüühqôm-VôÅ-M¾-Ÿ¾-¼Å-¤W¾-z-hGºüü ŸïÅ-Gb¤-hqï-hP-zTÅ-qºÛ-P¼-Ç+h-ˆÛÅ-ºzôh-»ôP-ü

P-¼P-»Þh-®¤-GZÛh-Z¾-»P-GZÛh-Æz-GTÛG-¾Å-¤-DÞG-q¼-JÀô-zÞ¼-Dô-qºÛ-z½‰Å-zTôÅ-im-mÅ-Çkôh-¤-±ßGÅ-q¼ü zŸôm-d-Iô-h;¼-¾-VG-vh-TÛP-d-ÇK-G»ôGÅ-bïü GmÅ-¤ô-zÇÀPÅ-mÅ-W-zÇ+ô¾-zTßGGmÅ-¤ôÅ-z;G-¤Ûm-¾-¤-¿eôÅ-q¼-Dô-q-±ô-Çkôh-GmÅ-¾-xÛm-mÅ-ÇKô-lÝP-zÅü lôz-lôz-Á-ºƒÅ-ˆÛÅ-ÇKô-xïü PÅ-fh-;¼-wÞm-±ôGÅ-M-¤±ôºÛ-Z¾-Å-z®¾-bï-Dô-qºÛ-ÇSÅ-¤Gô-mÅ-¤hP-hGôP-wôh-zMG-q¼-»ôP-GÛ-»Ûm-zÁh-q-zŸÛmü h-»¼-¾ôPÅ-P-GZÛÅ-ºIô-¼m-ºhÝG-TïÅ-zÁhü

Dô-qÅ-»¼-¾PÅ-mÅ-GôÅ-Hôm-zŸÛm-qºÛ-PP-¤hP-hGôP-P-¼-z¸Û-zÅ-hï-¿e¼-‚Å-q-h-¿e-¤Û-im-qÅü Eïh-ˆÛÅ-hï-¿e¼-¤-zÁh-q-¤¼-zÇkh-mÅ-VP-ºfÞP-¸ï¼ü PÅ-Eïh-GbàG-¤Û-mÝÅ-m-XïÅ-ÅÞ-GŸm-¾-hï-ºi-¤-Áôh-¼P-GÛÅ-¼P-h¤º-qô-z¸ôÅ-q-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-qÅü

Page 60: 14 mount-everest-dingri

38

38 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

Dô-qÅ-hï-¼ÛP-PÅ-ŸzÅ-ºiïm-ŸÝÅ-ÅôP-ü IÔ-Å-Åï-ºƒÅ-hGï-GÅÞ¤-hÝÅ-h-mÅ-z¸ÞP-Eïh-±ô-hI-¾-¤Û-º²Ûm-ŸïÅ-¤mº-zB¾-ŸÛP-ü lôz-lôz-Á-ºƒÅ-VP-¾ïm-q¼-¤PGÅ-q-ÇKô-¤¼-fôm-¤-fG-»¼-º²â¾-mÅ-DP-q-±P-¤-Eïh-±ôºÛ-¤ÛÅ-zÇ+ô¼-ºhÝG-¸ï¼ü wÞm-±ôGÅ-M-¤±ôÅ-P-¾-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-DôP-±ô-»¼-Ç+h-GbôP-¼ôGÅü VP-„ÀâGÅ-mÅ-IôGÅ-qô-zOÛG-GÛ-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-ÍÞ-±ßGÅ-mm-bm-‚ïh-qÅ-PÅ-xÛ-ÇKô¼-fôm-bï-IôGÅ-qô-±ô¼-¿e-Ç+zÅ-¾-¾Å-¾G-bà-hqº-h¤-hP-ü ºGº-ÁÅ-ˆÛÅ-bôG-¤| DG-GTÛG-GÛ-Çe-IÛ-z¸ÞP-mÅ-FÛGÅ-VGÅ-ÅÞ-DP-q-zÇ+ô¼-zü PÅ-Eïh-±ô-ÅÞÅ-zbP-P¤-ŸïÅ-ºiÛ-Ç+zÅü GmÅ-¤ôÅ-Í-Tô-PG-hzP-MG-¼ï-zMG-q¼-fôm-qÅ-Eïh-±ô-Z¾-wôh-h¤-ŸïÅ-zÁh-‚ãP-zü hï-mÅ-±P-¤-MãG-»ôP-z-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zÁhü ±P-¤-»¼-ºzôh-hï-wÞm-±ôGÅ-M-¤±ô-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛ-¢Ûm-zhG-zHÛÅ-mÅ-ZÛm-hï¼-vô-BÛh-¾-¼ô¾ü

¹-z-GTÛG-GÛ-XïÅ-wÞm-±ôGÅ-M-¤±ôÅ-lôz-lôz-GTÛG-P-±ôºÛ-GmÅ-DP-hÝ-DôP-±ô-hP-¤Z¤-vô-BÛh-GbôP-z¼-ym-ºzôh-q¼-zbP-‚ãP-zü ym-hP-Pô¼-q-Íïm-VßP-ü hP-„ÀP-Çtïm-qü lôz-lôz-‚¤Å-VßP-zTÅ-zBôh-q| lôz-lôz-hïÅ-P-±ô-ÇKP-bôG-m-»-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-ͼ-DP-hÝ-FÛh-‚ãP-z-hï¼-wÞm-±ôGÅ-M-¤±ô-hP-ü ‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅü F-ÅÛ¾ü hqº-Áôh-lôz-lôz-zTÅ-Í-¼G-ºfÞP-zŸÛm-ºhÝG-qü P-±ô-»ôP-z-¤fôP-XïÅ-»¼-ÁôG-

Page 61: 14 mount-everest-dingri

39

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 39

TïÅ-zXôh-hï-PºÛ-¼ôGÅ-q-±ô¼-Í-¼G-hP-P-¾-W-iPÅü hï-XïÅ-OôG-®ïºÛ-fôG-Á-¤ôG-hP-ü M-fÞG-ÅôGÅ-zOÛGÅ-mÅ-¸Å-zbP-ü

GP-¤±¤Å-mÅ-F-ÅÛ¾-hP-‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-GZÛÅ-¼-z Û̧-mÅ-ºÞh-Áôz-Áôh-¼ïÅ-‚Å-mÅ-ͼ-DP-GÛ-xÛ¼-ÁÝGÅ-±h-ºIm-q¼-xÛmü hïÅ-ˆP-fG-¤-Vôh-q¼-ͼ-DP-mP-º²â¾-mÅ-º²ÛP-¼ïÅ-‚Å-bï-JËÛ-¾-ÅÛ-¤P-qô-zTGÅ-Ç+zÅü PºÛ-¼ôGÅ-q-±ôÅ-z¼-¤Û-‚ïh-q-PºÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-mP-ºFâG-MG-±ß¾-z¼-Çkݤ-‚ïh-¤Û¼-IÛ-zMG-hôGÅ-‚ãP-zÅü ÁÝGÅ-hP-„Àô-DôG-»ôh-qÅ-º²ÛP-GÛ-»ôhü z¼-Çkݤ-¤-‚ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-qÅ-DôP-±ôÅ-ˆP-PºÛ-PG-¾-Zmü GZÛÅ-;-fP-¤-Vh-z¼-º²ÛP-»P-M¾-w¤-h‚ï-z-Vï¼-¤ïh-q¼-GP-¤±¤Å-mÅ-D-ºFâG-MG-GÛm-¾ôG-qü P-±ô-»P-¾ôG-xÛmü

ÅP-ZÛm-P-±ô-hP-„Àô-Zï-zºÛ-wÞm-±ôGÅ-M-¤±ôºÛ-ÁôG-GÛ-lôz-lôz-Á-ºƒÅ-P-±ôºÛ-¤hÝm-»ôP-Çeïü D-ÅP-‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-hP-F-ÅÛ¾-º²ÛP-±ß¾-‚Å-bï-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-z¼-¤Û-‚Å-m-IÛ-wôG-±ß¾-HÛÅ-zMz-mÅ-Eïh-¾-¤±ôm-ºIô-¤Ûm-±ôh-¿e-‚-Mã-‚Å-ÅôP-ü ŸïÅ-GÅP-Gb¤-zÁhü

¾ô-hï-hG-mP-zôh-mP-M-¤ÛºÛ-hzP-±h-Wï-Vï¼-xÛm-qÅ-zôh-hP-M-G¼-z¼-ºyâ¾-¼ÛGÅ-±ôP-ºƒï¾-¾-hPôÅ-Gž-HÛ-ºHã¼-¿kôG-‚ãP-mÅüzh¾-JÀ-ZÝP-hÝ-xÛm-qÅ-lôz-lôz-Zï¼-zŸÛºÛ-±ôGÅ-q¼-Z¤-LÝh-xÛm-q-hP-wÞm-±ôGÅ-M-¤±ô-hP-ü ‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅü F-ÅÛ¾ü hqº-Áôh-lôz-

Page 62: 14 mount-everest-dingri

40

40 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

lôz-zTÅ-ˆÛÅ-M-G¼-mÅ-f-¤G-mG-qô-ºzôG-mP-ºDÞ¼-mÅ-zôh-hÝ-fïPÅ-ºGº-±ôP-zBôh-‚Å-q-hP-ü fïPÅ-XïÅ-¤¼-wG-¼Û¼-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-zlz-Bôm-‚ãP-mÅ-‚¤Å-q-VôÅ-IGÅ-¤-GbôGÅ-±P-¤-»-P-zºÛ-PP-mÅ-ºWÛG-dïm-xÛ-¤¼-zŸÝhü

P-±ô-»P-EôGÅ-ºEï¼-hGôÅ-m-¤Z¤-¼Þz-‚ïh-q-hP-hÝÅ-¤P-Vï-z-VG-Bï¾-z¼-ºIô-»Û-»ôhü P-±ôºÛ-±ôGÅ-¤Û-n¤Å- Û̂Å-Pïh-¾-»Ûh-VïÅ-‚ïh-q-zŸÛm-¼P-ZÛh- Û̂Å-ˆP-G®ô-zô-zh¾-JÀ-zôGÅ-¤¼-¾ïm-q-hP-ü ºFâG-º²ÛP-GÛ-ÇSôm-hÝ-fôm-qü ±ôGÅ-¤Û-ÅÞ-z®ôm-hÝ-º±ßh-ˆP-z®ôm-mÅ-ºhôm-fzÅ-zTÅ-hq¾-º‚ô¼-hP-GP-TÛ¼-¼P-ZÛh-„ÀôÅ-GbôP-AP-‚ïh-ˆÛ-»ôh-qÅü hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-ŸïÅ-hqº-hP-iP-zhïm-¾-Ç+zÅ-hï¼-ÇKP-bôG-Mãh-IGÅ-»ôhü

uÛ-¾ô- 1956 Çeôm-D¼-PºÛ-GTßP-qô-q-ÅPÅ-P-¯h-GTôh-ˆÛm-ÇKP-bôG-bà-»ôP-Çeï-fÞG-Ç+zÅ-hGº-vô-Vïm-qô-‚ïh-q-hP-ü GŸÛÅ-ÅÞ-Á-±-Vï-zºÛ-¤Û-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-¾m-zB¾-hômü PG-hzP-GÛÅ-@Ý-ºyôG-WG-zTô¤-¤Û-‚ïh-ˆP-FÛ¤Å-OÛG-ºDÞ¼-GP-»P-¤ïh-qºÛ-¤Û-Lôh-AP-qºÛ-hzÞÅü hqÞP-Áïh-Dô-m-zÇkݼ-bï-xÛm-Vh-ÆôG-¤Gô-fôm-fzÅ-¤ïh-Aïmü h-¿e-mÅ-±ß¼-zÇ+ôP-m-ÇÀh-¤-ºHôh-q-»ôP-ü ŸïÅ-zÁh-qÅü Í-¤-¾GÅ-hP-EÛ¤-¤Û-±P-¤Å-Åï¤Å-P¾-Vïm-qôÅ-¾¤-ÅïP-zÇ+ôP-z¼-zbP-‚ãP-ŸïÅü Gô-

Page 63: 14 mount-everest-dingri

41

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 41

zÇ+ôm-ÇÀôz-GÅô-fïPÅ-¤P-‚ïh-q¼ü ¤fº-¤-ºIô-Mã-DÅ-„ÀPÅ-bï-PÅ-IôGÅ-qô-±ô¼-GTßP-qô-q-ÅPÅ-zÇ+ôPÅ-z¼-»ôP-zºÛ-Mã-¤±m-hP-zTÅ-hÛP-¼Û¼-¾ôG-MãºÛ-Ç+ô¼-zÁh-qÅü ±P-¤Å-¤IÛm-GTÛG-GÛÅ-P-±ô-h-z¼-BÛh-¾-DºÛ- Ó̄-¾-¤Z¤-¸-hP-ü ÇkÝG-ÇSôm-¤ôºÛ-Vß-¾-¤Z¤-ºfÞP-‚Å-ˆP-üh-mÅ-z¸ÞP-P-±ôºÛ-±ôGÅ-q-ºfô¼-zºÛ-ºGô-±ßGÅ-q-¼ïh-TïÅ-Bô-ÇoP-Vïm-qôºÛ-PP-¤fº-¤¼-PºÛ-ºhôh-q¼-zÇeàm-mÅ-DÅ-„ÀPÅ-ˆP-ü Pô¼-q-Íïm-VßP-hP-ü hP-„ÀP-Çtïm-qü lôz-lôz-‚¤Å-VßP-zTÅ-ˆÛÅ-ÇSôm-Vh-Í-Tô-Eïh- Û̂Å-ºGô-ºFÛh-qºÛ-P-±ôºÛ-±ôGÅ-qÅ-Å-V-ºhÛ¼-GP-‚Å-»Ûm-qÅü¤Û-¤P-qô¼-Åï¤Å-mh-»ôh-ˆP-±ß¾-Lô¾-‚ïh-mÝÅ-ˆÛ-¤ïhü h-V-Í-Tô-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ-¾ôG-Mã-Gbm-ºDï¾-zÅ-P-±ô-¤Þ-¤fÞh-ÇKP-bôG-bà-Çkôh-„ÀôÅ-z¸ôh-¤Ûm-¾-zdïmü Í-TôÅ-¤Z¤-ºFÛh-‚ïh-¼ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-¼ï-z-zbôm-‚ãP-zÅüPÅ-DÅ-„ÀPÅ-bï-d-iï¾-n¤Å-z®ôPÅ-mÅ-zôh-hÝ-hGôÅ-¤Dô-Vï-zºÛ-T-hPôÅ-ZôÅ-ÁÛP-ü P-GZÛÅ-z¸º-º±ô-GZÛÅ-hP-ü GTßP-qô-q-ÅPÅü Pô¼-q-Íïm-VßP-ü hP-„ÀPÅ-Çtïm-qü lôz-lôz-‚¤Å-VßP-ü hÛP-¼Û-z-d-¤IÛm-zTÅ-¤Z¤-ºFÛh-ˆÛÅ-¼ôGÅ-q-±ôÅ-G»ôGÅ-qºÛ-D-zbGÅ-Ç+ï-¾-Hôm-mÅ-zôh-hÝ-zŸÝhü

iï¾-Mz-zTß-»ôh-qºÛ-P-±ôºÛ-T-hPôÅ-n¤Å-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-JÀP-ÆÛm-zÞ-¾GÅ-¾-wG-¼Û-z¼-D¾-iï¾-G»¼-mÅ-zBôhü wG-¼ÛºÛ-GÁ¤-Vß-B-hP-

Page 64: 14 mount-everest-dingri

42

42 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

IôP-Çkï-z¼-HÛ-ÇtP-fôG-zÞP-zÞ-ZÛÅ-zM-®¤-¯Ó-D¼-zbP-Çeïü zÞP-zÞ-z-ÅÞ¤-Tß-®¤-±ßGÅ-zzÅ-»ôh-q-mÅ-GTÛG-GÛÅ-P-GbàG-q¼-ÇÀïzÅ-‚ãP-z| PÅ-¾¤-ºGG-q-GP-‚Å-Ť-ŸïÅ-iÛ-Ç+zÅü Çkï-hGï-z-‚-Lôh-n¤-M¾-lô-Xï-hqÞP-±ôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-wG-¼Û-hP-¾ºÛ-Mz-ˆÛ-¾ÞP-Áݼ-hÝ-ÇK¼-wz-mÅ-»Þm-¼ÛP-WG-zTô¤-‚Å-ˆP-ü P-±ô¼-¤±ôm-V-ÅôGÅ-GP-»P-¤ïh-qÅ-WG-zTô¤-‚Å-hôGÅ-ºIô-¤-mÝÅü Eïh-ˆÛ-hPôÅ-¸ôG-n¤Å-JÀ-¤ïh-fôG-hÛP-¼Û-¤±ô-ÇKô-z¼-P-±ôÅ-hzô¼-VôG-qÅü ¾¤-mÅ-f¼-fzÅ-‚ïh-¼ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-¼ï-z-zbômü PÅ-T-hPôÅ-ºyôG-q¼-P-±ôºÛ-Zï-ºI¤-zT¼-hGôÅü ÆôG-¼ï-»ôh-q-GTÛG-¤±ßPÅ-»Ûm-qÅ-GhôP-fÞG-Ç+zÅ-zŤ-„Àô-GbP-Mã-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-zÁhü

DôP-±ôºÛ-D¾-fôG-P-±ôºÛ-D¾-n¤Å-ˆP-zÞP-zÞ¼-z;¾-mÅ-Lô¾-º²ÛP-‚ïh-Mã¼-fG-zTh-mÅ-P-±ô-¤Þ-¤fÞÞh-wG-¼Û-hP-¾-zMz-mÅ-»ôP-Ç+zÅü ¾ÞP-Áݼ-hï¼-z¿eÅ-qÅ-‚-Lôh-n¤-M¾-lô-XïºÛ-ÇK¼-B-VÛ¾-¾ï¼-¤fôP-z-¾Å-ºyôG-zTô¤-‚ïh-q¼-ÇÀïzÅ-¤-‚ãP-ü

¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ-ÇÀïzÅ-XïÅ-¾ô-GÅÞ¤-¼ÛP-¤-fÞG-qºÛ-¤-Lm-hP-mP-¤Û-n¤Å-fÞG-Ç+zÅ-DôP-±ô-hGº-±ô¼-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-z-hP-ü P-¼P-GÛÅ-hÛP-¼Û-ÇKP-h;¼-hÝ-yïP-h;¼-EÛ¤-±P-mÅ-DP-q-ŸÛG-ZôÅ-bï-EÛ¤-w-iâG-mÅ-GmÅ-ÇtôÅ-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü Pô-ÁïÅ-½‰ÛP-q-n¤Å-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-GbàGÅ-ÁÛP-Í-

Page 65: 14 mount-everest-dingri

43

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 43

¤hô-¤Gô-FºÛ-¤hÝm-zBôh-Ç+zÅ-¤Gô-FÅ-ŸG- Û̄-‚ãG-qºÛ-Çeôh-ÉïP-ZÛ-¤¼-Æô-zŸÛmü ¤hÝm-hÝ-z®ßGÅ-qºÛ-¤ï-¾ôP-¾-z¿eÅ-bï-lôz-C¼-C-Áh-MG-GÛm-ºhÝG-qü PÅ-¤Û-Lm-¾ô-m-¿S-zTß¼-Åôm-»P-h-hÝP-h=ôG-h=ôG-‚ïh-ˆÛ-»ôh-h¤ü ŸïÅ-ºzôh-qÅü ±ß¼-z¿eÅ-bï-»-Í-wô-PG-hzP-ÇÀïzÅ-ºhÝG Eïh-zhï-qô-»Ûm-m¤ü ŸïÅ-hGº-±ô¼-Vïm-qôÅ-¤±¤Å-ºiÛ-‚Å-q-hP-ü PºÛ-w-»Þ¾-GTÛG-q-Í-¾G-Pô-ÁïÅ-GbôP-z¼-ºIô-ŸïÅ-ÇKP-h;¼-bÛ-bP-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-EÛ¤-ŸÛG-bà-FÛh-mÅ-¾ô-m-Zï¼-zhÝm-®¤-¾-Åôm-ŸÛP-üG Þ̧GÅ-ÇeôzÅ-Vï-zºÛ-¤Û-hï-Í-¾G-»Ûm-q-hP.ü hï-mÅ-TßP-G Þ̧GÅ-ÇeôzÅ-VßP-ŸÛP-¾ô-Zï¼-zŸÛ-®¤-Åôm-qºÛ-¤Û-hï-Í-¾G-GÛ-GTßP-qô-„Àô-hGº-»Ûm-q| w¼-z¿eÅ-±ôh-¾-uP-IâP-º²ô¤-ŸÛP-¾ô-Zï¼-GZÛÅ-®¤-Åôm-qºÛ-¤Û-hï-Í-¾G-GÛ-GTßP-qô-hôm-Iâz-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-q-hP-ü ¤Gô-FÅ-DôP-±ô¼-P-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-¼ïh-TïÅ-wm-±ßm-Pô-vôh-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-‚ïh-¼ÛP-ü zÞh-¤ïh-¾ô-Zï¼-GZÛÅ-®¤-¾-Åôm-ŸÛP-Í-¤hôºÛ-¾ÞGÅ- Û̂-xã-q-Hôm-qü G Þ̧GÅ-hï-®¤-Vïm-qô-¤ïh-q-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-W-¿kÝG-‚ãP-z-¤Gô-FÅ-zÞh-¤ïh-hï-Í-¾G-GÛÅ-z¸º-¹-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü Í-¾G-GÛÅ-P-¾-Eïh-ˆÛ-Ç+ô¼-¤Gô-FÅ-P-±ô¼-fïPÅ-¤P-qô-zÁh-¥ôP-ü P-±ô-w-»Þ¾-mÅ-M-¤Û¼-h¤G-GbàG-GÛm-ºhÛ-G¼-ƒôÅ-»ôP-z-»Ûmü ÇÀh-P-±ô-„ÀôÅ-fÞz-ˆÛ-IôGÅ-qô-‚ïh-hôü ŸïÅ-hGº-±ô¼-Vïm-qôÅ-zÁhü

Page 66: 14 mount-everest-dingri

44

44 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ZÛm-ŸÛG-EÛ¤-hÝ-TßP-¿Ëôh-qô¼-zÇkh-hï-DP-qºÛ-GŸôGÅ-G»Å-ˆÛ-HP-hï¼-z¸ô-zTôÅ-TÛ-ºi-‚ïh-lj¤-zŤ-„Àô-GbôP-Ç+zÅü ZÛ-¤-zŸÝh-®¤-¾-G¸ÞGÅ-ÇeôzÅ-Vï-¾-zŸÛm-Pô-mG-TÛP-n-TôG-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-fôh-mÅ-lôz-C-¼ÛP-qô-hqÞP-qºÛ-z¼-hrP-qü Ç+ïh-q¼-hqº-h¤-zbGÅ-qºÛ-lôz-lôz-GTÛG-EÛ¤-mP-º²â¾-»ôP-zü PºÛ-Í-¤-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-ÁÝz-zÞ¼-lôz-lôz-Á¤-fz-ÇSôm-qô-Tm-¼ïh-TïÅ-Ÿïh-ÇoP-‚ïhü P-¾-lôz-lôz-hïÅ-G-mÅ-»Ûm-m¤-ŸïÅ-iÛÅü PÅ-¾ÞP-q-ºhÛ-mÅ-»Ûm-zÁhü G-¼ï-z®ôP-Mã-»ôh-h¤ü PÅ-Eïh-¾-G-¼ï-hGôÅ-ˆP-z®ôP-Mã-»ôh-TïÅ-¾m-zbzü

Dô-xÛ¼-fôm-bï-TßP-mÅ-¤Û-ŸÛG-P-ºzôh-q¼-zbP-ºhÝG-q-zŸÛm-zBôh-qÅ-Dô-q-PºÛ-IôGÅ-qô-d-¤IÛm-HÛ-EÛ¤-hÝ-ºhÝG-q-PÅ-ºzôh-mÅ-TÛ-‚ïh-iÛÅ-qÅü P-GZÛÅ-Ç+h-V-zÁh-Mã-»ôhü VP-zbàP-z¼-ÁôG-TïÅ-zXôh-qü PÅ-Ghm-fôG-zÇkh-hï-TßP-JÀïP-¤ô¾-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-Dô-qÅ-ºÞh-Áôz-Dô-m-Áôh-TÛP-ü Ç+zÅ-ÁÛG-bà-Dô-¼P-hqº-zôºÛ-Mãh-»Ûm-±ß¾-¸ï¼ü PÅ-hï¼ü wÞ-wÞ-fG-¼ÛP-fÞP-zÁh-¤Û-hGôÅü ü¤hº-G®P-Vz-ÇSôm-qô¼-z¿eÅ-m-ÁïÅü üw-Í-wºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-zÁh-¤Û-hGôÅü ü¤Û-Eïh-¼ºÛ-uôh-±ß¾-z¿eÅ-m-¤fôP-ü üŸïÅ-q-¿e¼ü ¤Û-Eïh-Z¤-VßP-¾-hqº-Vï-»P-wô-Lôh-qô-hP-Lôh-qô-fÞG-±ï-h;º-¾Å-DG-GÛ-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-qÅü P-GZÛÅ-D-¯ôh-mÅ-Lô¾-º²ÛP-‚ïh-qºÛ-±h-hÝ-ÇÀïzÅü

Page 67: 14 mount-everest-dingri

45

ºE¤Å-qôºÛ-ºGô-G®ôü 45

PÅ-DP-qºÛ-mP-wÞ-h=âG-¤hº-h=âG-z¸ô-»Û-¤Ûm-qÅ-‚-wô-fP-hÝ-ºIô-ŸïÅ-¤¼-fôm-mÅ-ÇKô-xÛ¼-ÇKÝG »Þm-®¤-mÅ-Dô-q-»P-xÛ¼-fôm-‚ãP-z-PÅ-¾¤-ÅïP-ƒP-D-mÅ-z Þ̧P-Çeï-FÛh-hï-¼-Vß-¸¤-fôG-ÇÀïzÅ-Ç+zÅüDô-qÅ-PÅ-Eïh-¾-hqº-Z¤-„ÀPÅ-q-¾Å-º²ÛP-¯ÛÅ-¯-z-mÅ-¤ïhü ÇS¼-Eïh-ˆÛ-hqº-Gb¤-fôÅ-q-zŸÛm-hPôÅ-GmÅ-wô-Lôh-¼ïhü h-mÅ-z¸ÞP-Eïh-ˆÛ-ºôG-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-zÁh-‚ãP-zÅ-GŸÛ-mÅ-JÀôhü

Dô-q-PºÛ-ÇSôm-®¤-zBôh-hï-Í-¤hô-¤Gô-FºÛ-EÛ¤-hÝ-xÛm-q-hP-üP-¼P-EÛ¤-hÝ-¾ôG-q-»Ûmü »Þh-®¤-mÅ-¤Gô-FºÛ-¤hÝm-»ôP-hGôÅ-qºÛ-zl-ŸÛG-º‚ô¼-‚ãP-z-zŸÛm-zBôh-qÅü Á¤-fz-ÇSôm-qô-Tm-HÛÅ-TôG-®ïºÛ-ÇeïP-¾G-q-zlzÅ-mÅ-¤Gô-F-¾-P¼-P¼-‚ïh-TÛP-ºhÝG-qü P-»¼-º²â¾-¤-fG-Á¤-fz-ÇSôm-qô-Tm-HÛÅ-Gb¤-JÀïP-±ÛG-GTÛG-¤ïh-q¼-¾¤-ÅïP-xÛ¼-fômü ¤Gô-FÅ-Á¤-fz-ÇSôm-qôÅ-P-¾-z½‰Å-zTôÅ-±h-¤ïh-‚Å-qÅ-Eïh-ºzôh-q-»Ûmü h-ºIÛGÅ-Åôü ŸïÅ-zXôhü ÅP-ZÛm-Á¤-fz-ÇSôm-qô-Tm-Çkôh-»Þ¾-hP-¼-Á¼-hÝ-ºIô-Ç+zÅ-¤Û-±P-hïºÛ-Í-¤Å-¤hP-hGôP-¤±m-¤ô-wÞ-¼Û-xôGÅ-¾-fôm-ÅôP-ü Eïh-ˆÛÅ-TÛ-‚Å-Ť-ŸïÅ-zXôhü hï-mÅ-ZÛm-ÁÅ-mÅ-±ôP-¸ôG-n¤Å-hPÞ¾-¾-zOÛ¾-mÅ-ÇKP-bôG-mÅ-ºFÛh-qºÛ-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-qô-hï-hP-¤Z¤ü ÇÀ¼-»P-ÇKP-bôG-bà-±ôP-¾-fïPÅ-GZÛÅ-»ôP-qÅ-¾¤-ºIô-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-ü

Page 68: 14 mount-everest-dingri

46

46 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zŸÛ-qü

T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-¤fº-¤ºÛ-¾ô-MãÅü

(1958-1959)

ym-ÇKP-bôG-mÅ-ÇtôÅ-bï-¾ô-GTÛG-ºhÅ-qºÛ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-Áï¾-h;¼-μôP-GÛ-μôP-hqôm-©ï-¼Å-lô-Xï-M¾-qô-hP-ü Áï¾-h;¼-VôÅ-Çkï-GZÛÅ-mÅ-T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-¼Þ-hqôm-;Ým-hG¼-z;º-M-ŸÛG-wïzÅ-bïü G-hP-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-h¤G-¤Û-zM-®¤-Áï¾-h;¼-μôP-hÝ-º‚ô¼-bï-ÁPÅ-hGº-¿km-VôÅ-ºDô¼-HÛ-Gô-¾G-n¤Åü zÇem-ÆâP-hP-„ÀP-h¤G-GÛÅ-ºyôG-zTô¤-¸Ûm-qÅüÁï¾-h;¼-HÛ-Gô-¤±ôm-n¤Å-¤Þ-¤fÞh-z;¼-ºWâG-‚Å-m-zÇem-ÆâP-hP-„ÀP-h¤G-GÛÅ-ºyôG-Zïm-¾-zdïmü DôP-±ô¼-¯ÛÅ-vôh-hGôÅ-±ß¾-Áôh-q| ̄ ÛÅ-vh-hGôÅ-Ť-¤Û-hGôÅ-ŸïÅü iÛ-z-ŸÛG-zbP-zÅü ¼Þ-hqôm-;Ým-hGº-hP-zM-hqôm-d-¤IÛm-±ï-¼ÛP-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-IôÅ-zÇkݼ-‚Å-bïü

Page 69: 14 mount-everest-dingri

47

T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-¤fº-¤ºÛ-¾ô-MãÅü 47

G»ôG-GÅÞ¤-¼ï-FÛh-mÅ-d-Áh- Û̂Å-Áï¾-h;¼-μôP-hÝ-wïzÅ-bï-¤±ôm-V-ÆâP-z¼-T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-zM-¥ã¼-z¼-zÇkÝ-¼Þz-‚Åü

Áï¾-h;¼-μôP-hÝ-G-hP-GŸÛÅ- ï̄-h¤G-GÛ-ºGô-º²Ûm-hP-wm-±ßm-¢P-zÁh-‚Å-bï-Gô-¤±ôm-̄ ÛÅ-vôh-¤-hGôÅ-q¼-G-hP-GŸÛÅ-̄ ï-h¤G-n¤Å-¾ôG-xÛmü T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-n¤Å-hï-mÅ-z¸ÞP-D-fô¼-hÝ-GmÅ-¤-hGôÅ-q¼-¤±ôm-V-ÆâP-Bôz-Vïh-Áï¾-h;¼-hÝ-¤Z¤-Çkôh-‚ïh-Mã-‚ãP-z-hP-ü ¾ô-ÇSôm-¤-hP-¤Û-ºi-z¼-h¤G-¤Û-hPôÅ-GmÅ-ÁÛG-‚ïh-Mã-‚ãP-ü M-zôh-ŸÛ-¤ô¾-¾-¼ï-z-¤fº-GTÛG-zTPÅ-qºÛ-¼P-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-P-±ô-h¤G-¤Û-n¤Å-»Þm-¼ÛP-D-xôGÅ-Gž-Çeôm-GP-»P-¤ïh-q¼-ŸÛP-DÞ¾-hÝ-zŸG-ˆP-ü h-V-zÇkÝ-Ç+ôP-hï-Áï¾-h;¼-HÛ-Gô-¤±ôm-ÆâP-Bôz-Vïh-»Ûm-m¤ü Ÿï-mü M-xôGÅ- Û̂-‚ïh-±ß¾-¾Å-¼P-GŸÝP-ŸÛ-¤ô¾-¾-¼ï-fG-Vôh-hï-ÇS-xÛ¼-¤-GbôGÅ-h¤G-ºFâG-TÛG-»ôP-Mã¼-±ôh-hqG-¤²h-q-ºi-»P-ü hôm-hPôÅ-±ôh-hqG-hï-mÛ-xÛÅ-Åôüü

P-¼P-Áï¾-h;¼-hÝ-Gô-¤±ôm-ÆâP-z¼-¤-¤PGÅ-ˆP-hÝÅ-ÁÛG-¾-z;º-ŸÛG-wïzÅ- Û̂-¼ïh-zŤ-mÅ-Åï¤Å-mP-I-OÛG-PP-GmÅ-ÁÛP-ü Ç+zÅ-¼ï-P-±ôºÛ-EÛ¤-±P-GÛ-Zï-ºI¤-»ôh-qºÛ-M-h¤G-GÛÅ-P-±ô-wô-GŸôm-n¤Å-Çtô-¾ô-¯ï-z¼-Ç+h-zbP-z-¿e¼-zBôh-ˆÛ-»ôhü

uÛ-¾ô- 1958 ¾ô¼-D¤Å-q-bÛ-Vïm-Ÿ-¼-hP-ü Í-¤hô-Í-

Page 70: 14 mount-everest-dingri

48

48 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¾G-hP-DôP-GÛ-GTßP-qô-GZÛÅ-ÅôGÅü hÛP-¼Û¼-GmÅ-Ç+zÅ-zTº-Çkôh-‚ïh-qºÛ-¤hô-D¤Å- Û̂-¤Û-Ço-ÅÞ¤-Tß-Åô-IPÅ-®¤-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-º±ôGÅ-q-hï¼-£m-»P-¤-xÛmü

±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-hïºÛ-fôG-mÅ-Pïh-¾-Í-¤hô-Í-¾G-hP-¤Gô-F-zMãh-zÇem-ÆâP-hP-„ÀP-h¤G-¾-ºIô-hGôÅ-qºÛ-Mãh-zÇ+ݾ-zü xÛ-±ß¾-DÅ-¾ïm-¤-‚Å-q¼-mP-hôm-ºIô-MãºÛ-¯ÛÅ-zMz-Çeïü ¤Gô-F¼-zÁh-mÅ-PÅ-w-iâG-Zô-¤hº-GZï¼-±P-z-mÅ-Ç+h-IGÅ-Tm-HÛ-hqº-h¤-h¤-Tm-Åïm-lÝP-¤-ŸïÅ-qü Zô-¤hºÛ-Åï¼-ÆâP-»ô-‚h-TÛG-»ôh-q-hï-lô-±h-ÅÞ¤-Tß-vh-hï-ZôÅ-q-hP-ü ;ô-¿UGÅ-DP-GÝP-„À-ƒP-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-ÇSGÅ-Mãh-mÅ-GÝ-¸Û-w-lÝP-zÞ-¤fÞh-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-hqº-h¤-ŸÛG-¾-lô-±h-iâG-hP-ü h¤G-¿eG-zŸÛ-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-hqº-h¤-¾-lô-±h-zŸÛ-vh-q-zTÅ-¾ÞP-q¼-Ç+h-IGÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-hqº-h¤-GÅÞ¤-ZôÅ-q-hP-ü h-hÝP-fÞP-¤hº-WÛºÛ-@P-GTÛG-hP-üD-iâG-GTÛG ¤hïºÞ-ÇeôP-yG-GTÛG-®¤-ZôÅ-q-¤-¸hü ¤Gô-FÅ-MãÅ-Çeôm-‚Å-q-zŸÛm-DôP-FÛh-hï-¤±ô-h;¼-GŸÛÅ-;-mÅ-lô-±h-ÅÞ¤-zM-vh-hï-h‚Ûm-WÛºÛ-d-h¤G-GÛÅ-zïh-uôh-qºÛ-¼ÛP-¤hº-GTÛG-hP-hïºÛ-¤hïºÞ-Zï¼-¿S-ZôÅ-bïü P-GZÛÅ-»¼-¾¤-Áï¾-h;¼-HÛ-fôh-;z-;ô-¸¤-qºÛ-zôP-VߺÛ-¼z-mÅ-d-¼ï-zŸôm-bï-ºIô-hÝÅ-¸¤-q-hïºÛ-xôGÅ-mÅ-M-h¤¼-HÛ-ÇSôm-zBôh-d-h¤G-zTß-hP-ü hï-XïÅ-d-h¤G-¿S-zTß-I¾-OÛG-mÅ-»ôP-ü

Page 71: 14 mount-everest-dingri

49

T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-¤fº-¤ºÛ-¾ô-MãÅü 49

¤Gô-FÅü Í-wô-PG-hzP-ü h-¿eºÛ-M-h¤G-ºhÛ-n¤Å-¾-P-±ôÅ-ºWz-h¤G-zMG-Çeï-PïÅ-q¼-hÝ-M¾-D-„ÀP-fÞz-q-‚ïh-hGôÅü M-h¤G-GÛ-Gô-¤±ôm-hP-ü d-iï¾-ÅôGÅ-P-±ô¼-fôz-XïÅ-zÇem-ÆâP-hP-„ÀP-h¤G-¾-ºIô-zºÛ-V-Aïm-±P-GÛ-¼ïhü hï-¤Ûm-P-±ôºÛ-¤Û-n¤Å-zÇem-ÆâP-hP-„ÀP-h¤G-¾-ºIô-ŸïÅ-q-mÛ-ZÛ-¤-ºzÞh-fzÅ-ˆÛ-Ç+h-V-¼ïhü Eïh-¾ô-GŸôm-uP-IâP-º²ô¤-Aïm-¤HôGÅ-¥ã¼-zBôh-hï-hP-qô-Í-¾G-¾-Gž-zÁh-‚ôÅü Í-¾G-GÛÅ-±ôGÅ-¤Û-GŸm-hP-IôÅ-¤ô¾-‚Å-bï-h¤G-I-zOÛG-GÛ-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-‚ãP-zÅü PÅ-d-wô¼-VG-Iôh-q-MG-PïÅ-vh-hï-¾¤-ÅïP-fôm-mÅ-m¤-xïh-¤-¸Ûm-®¤-¾-ÇKP-h;¼-hÝ-º‚ô¼-bïü Í-¾G-¾-GmÅ-±ß¾-n¤Å-Vh-¾ÞÅ-¤ïh-q¼-zÁh-TÛP-ü P-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-GŸm-n¤Å-¾-IôÅ-zÇkݼ-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-Dô-q-±ôÅ-ºGG-¯¼-G»ô¾-fzÅ-Dô-m-‚ïh-q¼ü Í-¾G-GÛÅ-hP-qô-ºIô-ŸïÅ-ºÞh-Áôz-Áôh-¤Dm-Eïh-±ô-»Ûm-qÅühô-hGôP-PïÅ-q¼-±ôGÅ-ºhݼ-»ôP-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-ˆP-¤±m-±ôGÅ-¾-bÛ-Vïm-Ÿ¼-z-ÅôGÅ-¤Û-zTß-iâG-¾Å-¤-º‚ô¼ü

P-hP-Í-¾G-GTïm-GTßP-GÛ-Åï¤Å-¾-ÁÛm-bà-Gmôh-qÅ-h¤G-zMG-Mã-DÅ-¤-„ÀP-mü ±ôGÅ-fôG-hï-G¼-mP-DÞ¾-GÅôh-¼ïÅ-GbôP-Mã-hP-ü ±ôGÅ-fôG-mÅ-ÇKô-D¼-ÅÞ-fôm-»P-PÅ-GÅôh-Mã-DÅ-„ÀPÅ-bï-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-ÇKô-ÆâP-mÅ-zÇkh-TÛP-ü ±ôGÅ-fôG-wm-±ßm-¢P-zÁh-¼Û¤-q¼-

Page 72: 14 mount-everest-dingri

50

50 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

‚ïh-¼ÛP-bÛ-Vïm-Ÿ¼-z-ÅôGÅ- Û̂Å-G»ô¾-fzÅ-Dô-mÅ- ô̄h-q-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-zÅüÍ-¾G-GÛÅ-hI-zô-¤ÛG-¤fôP-¤ïh-hÝÅ-MP-mÅ-hqº-Ç+h-zOGÅ-ÁÛP-ühI-zô-ÇKô-D¼-º‚ô¼-Ç+zÅ-Çk¼-¤-¶-dGÅ-zÇem-mÅ-G»ô¾-m-P-±ô-mP-h¤ï-‚-Mã¼ü ±ôGÅ-fôG-ºhÛ-mÅ-ÅÞ-GTÛG-GÅôm-qô¼-¾ôG-qºÛ-zŤ-„Àô-¤-GbôP-ü ŸïÅ-zÁhü wm-±ßm-ºfz-ºFâG-‚ïh-Zï¼-bÛ-Vïm-Ÿ¼-z-ÅôGÅ-Û̂Å-¤Gô-zhï-im-ºyâ¾-HÛÅ-zŤ-„Àô-zbP-mÅ-m¤-¤-¾PÅ-GôP-¾m-zB¾-Mã-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zÁh-hï-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-Iô¾ü

m¤-¤-¾PÅ-GôP-M-h¤G-¾-ºWz-h¤G-zMG-hGôÅ-qºÛ-P-hP-¤Gô-FºÛ-ºV¼-GŸÛ-Dô-q-±ô¼-zÁh-»ôh-ˆP-m¤-B-¿kP-»P-Dô-q-±ô-»ôP-¤Dm-¤Û-ºhÝG-qÅü DôP-Fô-iG-bà-¾PÅ-mÅ-P-hP-Í-¾G-Çtäm-¤Vïh-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-¤ï-¤hº-ºDÞ¼-mÅü Dô-q-±ôºÛ-GmÅ-DP-Åô-Åô¼-zBôh-Ç+zÅ-±P-¤-ƒôÅ-mÅ-ÇeôP-ÅP-Pï¼-zŸG-ºhÝG-qÅ-‚ïh-fzÅ-¯-z-mÅ-¤-‚ãP-üZÛ-¤-ºV¼-®¤-¾-¤Gô-F-ÇKÝG-»Þm-¤-±ßGÅ-q¼-iï¾-ŸÛG-zŸôm-mÅ-º‚ô¼-‚ãP-zÅü P-hP-Í-¾G-GÛÅ-GmÅ-±ß¾-n¤Å-ºIï¾-zÁh-MG-Ç+zÅ-¤Gô-mG-zôh-¾-¤Û-fzÅ-ÇkÝG-qô-hï-ºi-ºhÝG TïÅ-Åï¤Å-w¤-hP-zTÅüh-¿e-P-±ô-¤Û-D-ÁÅ-ÁÛG-GÛÅ-º²ÛP-»P-mÝÅ-q-¤Û-fôm-qÅü ÇÀh-Áï¾-h;¼-μôP-hÝ-h¤G-I-OÛG-mÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-T-hP-hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-ÇK¼-¾-Mz-hqÞP-zTô¾-mÅ-DôP-±ôºÛ-ºGݾ-zBôh-hP-zÇeàm-Mã-‚-mü ŸïÅ-zÁh-qÅü ±P-¤Å-

Page 73: 14 mount-everest-dingri

51

T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-¤fº-¤ºÛ-¾ô-MãÅü 51

¤Gô-FÅ-zÁh-q¼-V-zŸG-q-¼ïhüuÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¹- 3 ±ïÅ- 12 ZÛm-M-h¤G-ºGº-ÁÅ-

PºÛ-EÛ¤-hÝ-»ôP-Çeïü ÇS¼-zŸÛm-Çtô-¾ô- ï̄-z¼-ºIô-ŸïÅ-zÁh-q-zŸÛmü hôGÅ-q-Çtä-®¤-»P-¤-‚ãP-ŸÛP-ü ¾ÞÅ-¾-¤±ôm-V-GP-»P-¤-zbGÅ-q¼-ÇoP-¤ïh-ÇKô-xÛ¼-fôm-Ç+zÅü EÛ¤-HÛ-Dô¼-»ÞG-¤ï-¤hº-ºEï¼-zºÛ-M-h¤G-GÛÅ-zÇ+ô¼-ŸÛP-ü JÀô-zÞ¼-P-¾-M-h¤G-zMh-ˆÛÅ-¼Þz-Çeï-z¸ÞP-ŸÛP-ü M-h¤G-ºGº-ŸÛG-DP-qºÛ-mP-º²â¾-mÅ-GÝÅ- Û̂-¤ï-¤hº-hP-IÛ-n¤Å-ºEï¼-»ôP-Çeïü GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-GÝÅ-ˆÛ-¾G-¼ï-mÅ-z¸ÞP-z-hP-ü M-h¤G-zMh-ˆÛÅ-¤ï-¤hºÛ-D-¤hïºÞ-GÝÅ-¾-Gbh-hï-ºFÛhü ¾¤-hÝ-ºIô-zŸÛm-G»Å-G»ôm-¾-z¿eÅ-qÅ-PºÛ-EÛ¤-±P-GÛ-fôG-hP-Mz-¼Û-±P-¤¼-Gô-¤±ôm-fôGÅ-qºÛ-M-h¤G-Åï¼-VÛ¾-¾ï¼-z=¤Åü

Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-GÅP-z-Áô¼-bï-¤ï-¤hº-fïPÅ-GTÛG-ˆP-MG-¾ôP-¤ïh-q¼-º²Ûm-z Þ̧P-‚Å-q¼-¼P-¾-¼P-GÛÅ-ºDP-¼-‚ïh-¤Þ¼ü M-h¤G-hqôm-G»ôG-ºGº-GmÅ-Çkôh-‚ïh-»Þ¾-V-¾ºÛ-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-EÛ¤-±P-hÝ-fG-qÅ-zÇk¤Å-mÅ-GTÛG-qÞ¼-zTßG-TÛP-ü Vß-±ôh-GTÛG-GÛ-XïÅ-¤ï-¤hºÛ-O-zÇeàh-¤¼-fôÅ-q-hï-¤-fG-ÁÛ-qï-mÅ-¿kÛP-hqôm-±-z-w-zÞ-GZÛÅ-P-hP-¤Z¤-hÝ-zTßG-TÛP-ü ¿kÛP-hqôm-HÛÅ-h-±¼-ÅôP-ü ŸïÅ-GÅÞPÅ-q-hP-ü DôP-GÛ-zÞ-hzP-xãG-M-h¤¼-¾-Fô-zºÛ-ÇkP-¤ÛG-zIh-TÛP-GhôP-q-h¤¼-AP-

Page 74: 14 mount-everest-dingri

52

52 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

hÝ-Hã¼-mÅ-P-±ô¼-Gb¤-JÀïP-»P-¤Û-‚ïhühï-mÅ-¤Û-¼ÛP-z¼-Ÿ¾-Pô-±ï-¼ÛP-q-ÅPÅ-zÇk¤Å-mÅ-ºFÛh-hï-P-

±ô-¤Z¤-hÝ-zTßG-‚ãP-zü M-h¤G-¤ïh-qºÛ-Ç+zÅ-hP-zÇeàm-PÅ-DôP-¾-¤ï-¤hºÛ-O-hï-hG-GP-»Ûm-m¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-qÅü DôP-GÛÅ-GÅÞPÅ-q¼ü PºÛ-EÛ¤-hÝ-GmÅ-±P-G»¼-zºÛ-Í-¤hô-Í-¾G-z¸º-±ô-hP-zÞ-Çtäm-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-¤hÝm-hÝü M-h¤G-ºGº-zBôh-hï-Gô-¤±ôm-¯ÛÅ-vôh-hGôÅ-zXôh-hÝÅü Í-¾G-GÛÅ-¾¤-ÅïP-fÞP-¤hº-ºwPÅ-bï-M-h¤G-GÅÞ¤-zÅh-q-hP-ü ±ß¼-M-h¤G-GÛ-¤ï-¤hºÛ-iG-V¼-ºôG-Í-¾G-hP-ü DôP-GÛ-VßP-¤ü GTßP-qô-„Àô-hGº-zTÅ-ˆÛ-¾ÞÅ-±¾-zÞ¼-zTô¤Å-ÁÛP-ü ;ôP-EÛ-ŸÛG-»ôh-q-hï-»P-f¼-q¼-¤-zbP-ü Çtäm-f-VßP-hôm-Iâz-xÛ-mÅ-EÛ¤-hÝ-»ôP-Ç+zÅ-n¤-ÁïÅ-ºWÛG-dïm-ºhÛ-hP-D-ƒ¾-mÅ-Ç+¼-¤-D-ÁÅ-¾Å-¤-xÛm-qºÛ-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛ-GTïm-qô-GZÛÅ-hP-ü GTïm-qôºÛ-z¸º-¹-zTÅ-ˆÛ-¾ÞÅ-qôºÛ-¸ÞPÅ-FG-iôm-¤ô-m¼-m¼-Å-ÇeïP-ºEÛ¾-ŸÛP-ü ;ôP-EÛ-hï-¼P-ZÛh-Û̂-zhG-qô-hP-Zï-zºÛ-G»Å-xôGÅ-Å-ÇeïP-ÁÛ-¤-GÅôm-¾-hzÞGÅ-¿Ëï¤-¤ï¼-¸ÞG-QâºÛ-Ç+h-ºhôm-zŸÛm-q¼ü M-h¤G-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-»P-zB¼-¤ï-¤hº-GTÛG-¤WâG-GZÛÅ-¤fÞh-ˆÛÅ-ºwPÅ-bïü »Þh-®¤-¼ÛP-¤ï-¤hºÛ-O-hP-EÛºÛ-¸ÞG-QâºÛ-OÅ-¾ÞP-GŸôPÅ-F-¤ô-hï-z;PÅ-ÁÛP-ü ¤f¼-O-Wï-VßP-Wï-VßP-GÛÅ-GPÅ-¼Û-¤fôm-¤fÛP-M¾-¤ôºÛ-hzÞ-¯ï-mÅ-»¾ü M-h¤G-ºGº-

Page 75: 14 mount-everest-dingri

53

T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-¤fº-¤ºÛ-¾ô-MãÅü 53

‚-Lôh-Á-¾-Q¤Å-q-¿e¼-º±P-G-ÁÛG-ÁÛG-DôP-±ôºÛ-EÛ¤-±P-ÇSôG-zÁï¼-‚ïh-zŸÛm-»ôhü

M-h¤G-n¤Å- Û̂Å-hôm-Iâz-¤fôP-¤-fG-¤ï-¤hºÛ-D-xôGÅ-zNå¼-ŸÛP-ü ½‰Û-ºôG-º±ßh-qºÛ-hôm-Iâz-Lô¾-º²ÛP-‚ïh-qºÛ-mÝÅ-q-ƒ¾-bï-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛ-Ç+ïh-IÛ-¾ÞÅ-¾-zbGÅ-ÁÛP-ü MãGÅ-fïPÅ-GTÛG-GÛÅ-ÇKô-¼¼-»ôh-qºÛ-d¼-zŸôm-bï-¤hïºÞ-V¼-Fôh-d-wô-¿UG-GÛÅ-zÇ+ݾ-bï-ƒôÅ-qÅ-©Å-Bôm-®¤-¤-‚ãP-z¼-f¼ü hï-mÅ-M-h¤G-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-Vï-z-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-fôG-Á¼-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-zBôhü

hÝÅ-»Þm-TßP-GÛ-XïÅ-hÛP-h¤G-zŸÛ-zTß-¿ËG-q-ƒï¾-QPÅ-ˆÛÅ-PºÛ-EÛ¤-hÝ-»ôP-Çeï-zÁh-hômü Áï¾-h;¼-μôP-mÅ-EÛ¤-hÝ-z¸º-¹-zÞ-yâG-fÞG-q¼-»ôP-zºÛ-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-zM-hqôm-d-¤IÛm-±ï-¼ÛP-hP-ü zŸÛ-zTß-¿ËG-q-¼-Ť-hÝ-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-ŸôGÅ-q-mÅ-zM-hqôm-d-¤IÛm-±ï-¼ÛP-GÛ-zŸôm-dÅ-;ï-¼ï¼-¾PÅ-q-hP-ü @P-¾G-Å-¾-zIh-TÛP-º±ï¼-Ç+h-¿ËP-¿ËP-ºhôm-q-ÅôGÅ-‚ïh-q¼ü zŸÛ-zTß-¿ËG-qÅ-zM-hqôm-d-¤IÛm-±ï-¼ÛP-¾-TP-ÁïÅ-d-wôÅ-º±ßz-V-Vï-zºÛ-¾ÞP-zÇem-HÛ-ºhÝG-qÅü P-±ôÅ-I-OÛG-TÛG-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-ˆP-zM-hqôm-HÛÅ-GP-»P-‚ïh-ˆÛ-¤-¼ïh-TïÅ-ÇoP-¤ïh-zÇkhü ¤±m-¤ôºÛ-Vß-±ôh-hGÝ-q¼-xÛ-mÅ-zM-hqôm-d-¤IÛm-±ï-¼ÛP-ºzôh-q-zM-hqôm-ÇoP-¤ïh-xÛ¼-fôm-Ç+zÅü ¾¤-

Page 76: 14 mount-everest-dingri

54

54 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ÅïP-M-h¤G-GÛÅ-xôGÅ-GP-Å-mÅ-¤ï-¤hº-ºwPÅ-bï-hqº-„Àô-DôG-¾-Ç+h-IGÅ-Vï-zºÛ-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-zM-hqôm-d-¤IÛm-±ï-¼ÛP-PG-mÅ-Í-D-ŸïÅ-zXôh-TÛP-ü G¸ÞGÅ-»ôPÅ-μôGÅ-W-±GÅ-zŸÛm-z¸ôÅ-bï-z=ôPÅ-qºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-zÁh-‚ãP-ü

hï-¿e¼-Ÿ¾-Pô-±ï-¼ÛP-q-ÅPÅ-ˆÛÅ-P-¾-GmÅ-±ß¾-hï-hG-GÅÞPÅ-¸Ûm-¤-fG-xÛ-¼ô¾-hÝ-ºÞ¼-¸ÛP-iG-qô-ºDô¾-ŸÛP-M-h¤G-GÛÅ-Ÿ¾-Pô-Ç+¼-¤-hP-ü Ÿ¾-Pô-Vô-¾ô-¿ËG-qü bÛ-ÇePÅ-hGï-ÇÀôP-zTÅ-fG-qÅ-¤Z¤-hÝ-zÇk¤Å-mÅ-ºFÛh-‚ãP-ŸÛP-ü ym-HÛ-GTßP-qô-q-ÅPÅ-ˆP-z®ôm-hÝ-ºFÛhü ZÛm-GZÛÅ-XïÅ-ym-HÛ-GTßP-qô-q-ÅPÅ-hP-Ÿ¾-Pô-±-zºÛ-zÞ-hzP-xãG-GZÛÅ-JÀôh-ºIô¾-zbP-ŸÛP-ü hïºÛ-¤±m-¤ô-PôÅ-¿ËG-¤-zhÝm-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-ŸÛG-mP-„ÀâGÅ-bï-ºFÛh-mÅ-Vß-±ôh-GTÛG-®¤-XïÅü m¤-¤DºÛ-¤fôPÅ-ÅÞ-¹-z-G¸º-»ÛÅ-z¸ÞP-z-¤fôP-ŸÛP-ü ¾¤-hˆÛ¾-hÝ-»Þm-®¤-z;G-q-hP-¼ôGÅ-q-ºGºÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-Å-hï¼-GÅh-Mã-¤Ûm-m¤-lj¤-qºÛ-Åï¤Å-º±z-Vïm-qô-BïÅü

ÅP-ZÛm-m¤-¾PÅ-®¤-¾-Áï¾-h;¼-hÝ-º‚ô¼-Ç+zÅ-Áï¾-h;¼-μôP-GÛ-Gô-¤±ôm-ÆâP-Bôz-q-zhÝm-®¤-ƒôÅ-fÞz-q-¾Åü hï-‚ÛPÅ-n¤Å-z¸ÞP-mÅ-Gô-¤²ôh-DP-¾-M-h¤G-z=¤Å-mÅ-ÆâP-Bôz-‚ïhü

T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-¼Þ-hqôm-;Ým-hGÅ-G®ôÅ-¤±ôm-V-ÆâP-Bôz-

Page 77: 14 mount-everest-dingri

55

T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-¤fº-¤ºÛ-¾ô-MãÅü 55

q-n¤Å-hP-ü P-±ô-z¸ÞP-¤Û-Eôm-zM-yG-GTÛG-®¤-hP-M-h¤G-zTÅ-Eôm-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-iâG-Tß-¼ï-IPÅ-®¤-GŸÛÅ-;-¯ï¼-FÛh-hïü „À-ƒP-½‰ÛP-q¼-T-hP-hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-n¤Å-Dï-G®P-zTßG-TÛP-ü DP-qºÛ-mP-GÁôP-¤Û-GÁôP-¤ïh-q¼-¼-¾ÞG-zŸÛm-„ÀâGÅ-bï-@P-q-AôP-Å-»P-fôz-h;º-z-hP-ü ŸôGÅ-¿e¼-z®ôm-q-n¤Å-¾ÞÅ-¯¾-¯ï-hGôÅ-ǨôÅ-¤ïh-fôG-¾Å-DÞPÅ-DG-GÛÅ-z®ôm-qºÛ-hˆÛ¾-mÅ-P-¾-¤Û-ºhÛ-hP-ºhÛ-hGôÅüŸïÅ-hÝh-ºIô-hP-Eh-¤ïh-¿e-zÞÅ-¾Å-;¼-FÛh-TÛP-ü Vß-±ôh-zMh-®¤-¼ÛP-¾Å-;-zÇ+ݾ-bï-±ß¼-¯ÛÅ-vôhü

hGôP-iô-z®ôm-DP-GÛ-¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-º²¤-JÀÛP-GÛ-Gż-ºHã¼-ºDôh-qºÛ-±GÅ-q¼->ÀôG-Çeï-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ÁÛP-ü Í-¼Û-z®m-M¾-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-ˆÛ-G®ôÅ-¾ôG-uôh-±ôGÅ-DG-GÛÅ-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤-M-G¼-hÝ-z®m-FÛh-‚Å-q-¾Å-DôP-GÛÅ-ºhôh-¤ôÅ-zŸÛm-wïzÅ-¤ïhü Eïh-±ô-P¾-¯ô¾-Nå¼-z;ôh-hP-VzÅ-TÛG-zŤ-„Àô-Nå¼-z;ôh-‚ïh-hGôÅü zŤ-„ÀôºÛ-Nå¼-z;ôh-GP-»Ûm-m¤-Ÿï-mü uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-qºÛ-zŤ-„Àô-hô¼-bï-uÛ-±ôGÅ-Gż-qºÛ-zŤ-„Àô-hP-hÝ-¾ïm-hGôÅü hï-GZÛÅ-¸ÞP-£ï¾-HÛÅ-Nå¼-z;ôh-zbP-Çeï-h-mÅ-z¸ÞP-bP-GÛÅ-GP-zÁh-Eïh-±ôÅ-Zm-hGôÅü G¾-bï-¤-Zm-m-Eïh-¼P-±ô¼-iG-Gmôm-Vïm-qô-GbôP-GÛ-¼ïh-TïÅ-zXôhü h-hÝP-P-±ôºÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-&M¾-z-¼Ûm-qô-Vï-ƒôÅ-wïzÅ-q-hP-¿Ë-Å-Áô¼-z-»Ûh-¤-VïÅ-q-

Page 78: 14 mount-everest-dingri

56

56 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¤-¸hü ¤Û-Lm-q-ºGÅ-¿Ë-ż-IÔ-IPÅ-hï-®¤-»ôh-q-¿Ë-Å-Áô¼-G-¾-ÆÛh-TïÅ-Áôhü

„À-ƒP-½‰ÛP-qºÛ-z®ôm-DP-mÅ-¤±m-ŸÛG-¾ÞÅ- Û̂-¯¾-È-TP-¾ïGÅ-ÁÛP-ü ¾ô-ÅÞ¤-Tß-®¤-Åôm-qºÛ-T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-BÛh-Çkݼ-z=-ÁÛÅ-n¤-M¾-HÛÅ-fôG-GÛ-Ç+¼-DÞP-zMãh-ƒôÅ-qÅü M-h¤G-GÛÅ-hïºÛ-ƒôÅ-±ß¾-¯-z-mÅ-¤-ÁïÅ-q-hP-ü hï-mÅ-¾ô-Zï¼-iâG-®¤-»Ûm-qºÛ-T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-Vß-ºhݾ-ÇeôzÅ-VßP-»P-GÅP-GTôh-ˆÛ-DÞP-zÞ-zMãh-ƒôÅ-f¼ü

Page 79: 14 mount-everest-dingri

57

Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ˆÛ-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qü 57

¿S-qü

Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ- Û̂-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qü

(1959-1962)

¹-GTÛG-®¤-XïÅ-M-h¤G-hqôm-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-P-±ô-hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-¤Û-zM-hP-ü G-hP-h¤G-¤Û-zŸÛ-zM-®¤-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-mÅ-Q-Vïm-JÀôG-DP-hÝ-zBôh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-z;º-zbP-ŸÛP-ü Q-Vïm-hÝ-Nå¼-z;ôh-¾ïGÅ-qô-‚ãP-±ï-EÛ¤-hÝ-¾ôG-qºÛ-hÝÅ-ºV¼-HÛ-¼ïhü hï-¤Ûm-EÛ¤-hÝ-¾ôG-Mã-¤ïh-q¼-mG-ZïÅ-¤-ÅPÅ-z¼-hÝ-z®ôm-DP-mP-zÇkh-hGôÅ-qÅü Dï-HôP-h‚ï-º‚ïh-ÁïÅ-q-‚Å-mÅ-±ß¾-¤fÞm-PP-Çkôh-hGôÅü TïÅ-Gb¤-zÁh-Çtï¾-bï-FÛhü

Q-Vïm-HÛ-¼Û-Áݾ-hÝ-xôGÅ-DG-mÅ-zÇ+ôPÅ-qºÛ-zôh-¤Û-ºzÞ-IôG-¤ºÛ-±P-lô¾-z-¿e¼-Ez-TÛP-ºhÝG-qü &GôP-Å-¤VôG-ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-wïzÅ-q-hP-zôh-ˆÛ-M¾-Å-¿Ë-Å-Áô¼-z-GŸÛ-mÅ-»Ûh-VïÅü P-±ô-z®ôm-q-n¤Å-

Page 80: 14 mount-everest-dingri

58

58 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¼Þ-DG-zTß-iâG-bà-zGôÅ-bï-¼Þ-DG-n¤Å-Çkï-±m-GZÛÅ-ÅÞ-h‚ï-Çeï-GTÛG-ZÛm-¤ô-hP-GŸm-hï-hGôP-¤ô-¾Å-;-‚ïh-zTßG-q-hP-ü ¼ïÅ-G¸º-ZÛ-¤¼-GTÛG-Hã¼-GÝP-ÅïP-zŸG-GÛ-»ôhü

¾Å-¤Û-±P-¤ºÛ-¾Å-;-mÛü ƒG-lô-GÁG-mÅ-ƒG-lô-hP-lïºÞ-n¤Å-¾Å-¤Û-ÇeôzÅ-ÁÝGÅ-Vï-z-zŸÛ-¿SÅ-fï¼-Gï-iâh-hGôÅ-q-hP-ü GŸm-n¤Å-Û̂Å-ÇK¾-q¼-ºDÞ¼-bï-hzô¼-mÅ-¿Ë-źÛ-BÛh-VߺÛ-¤f¼-lô-z Û̄GÅ-mÅ-¼GÅ-MG-hGôÅü P-±ô-¼Þ-DG-iâG-q-»Ûm-q-hP-hïºÛ-mP-mÅ-¿Ë-Å-z-hGº-¼Þ-Á¼-Wô-¾GÅ-„Àô-z¸P-hP-ü GÅï¼-z¸ô-z-zÇem-qü Ÿô¾-q-¹-z-¾GÅ-ÅôGÅ-P-±ô-zTß-ÁôG-GTÛG-»Ûmü

Q-Vïm-hÝ-º‚ô¼-mÅ-¹-z-GTÛG-®¤-XïÅ-ˆÛ-ZÛm-GÝP-ŸÛG-¾ô-Zï¼-zŸÛ¼-Åôm-qºÛ-hÛP-h¤G-μôP-D-q-wÞ¼-zÞ-¼Û-GÁ¤-hÝ-Å-z;ôG-Ç+zÅüfôh-ˆÛ-¾Å-Å-mÅ-¡z-lô-¤Gô-zô¼-ºwôG-Çeï->Àh-FG-ºiïÅ-mÅ-¾¤-ÅïP-IôPÅü hï-¿e-zÞºÛ-Zïm-D-mÛ-Mãm-hÝ-mÅ-»ôh-qÅ-¾Å-¤Û-n¤Å-ˆÛ-±ï-¾-»Ûh-zdm-¯-z-mÅ-¤ïhü

ZÛm-ŸÛG-±ôGÅ-Vïm-fôG-M-h¤G-¼Þ-hqôm-Lm-q-Í-¤hô-z-ŸÛG-»ôh-q-Dô-qÅ-zÁh-hômü hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-hP-G-hP-h¤G-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-ºGô-ºFÛh-¿Ë-Å-mÅ-»¼-ºFÛh-»ôP-GÛ-»Ûm-qÅü ÇSôm-Vh-Eïh-±ô¼-¤m¼-GTôh-TÛ-‚Å-ºfï¼-ºhôm-G®P-¯ÛÅ-zMG-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁhü

Page 81: 14 mount-everest-dingri

59

Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿e ôGÅ-ˆÛ-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qü 59

ZÛm-GZÛÅ-®¤-mÅ-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-zÇ+ôPÅ-bï-¤Û-±P-¤¼-ºzôh-±ÛG-GÛ-ÁôG-¾ï-¼ï-¼ï-vh-TÛP-ü G-hP-¼Þ-hqôm-hP-zM-hqôm-±P-¤| hÛP-¼Û-zºÛ-¼Þ-hqôm-;Ým-hGº-hP-Ÿ¾-Pô-±P-¤-ºFÛh-»ôP-ü M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-qºÛ-hÝG-¯¼-G®P-¯ÛÅ-zMG-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-ºzôh-O-OôG-zTßG-TÛP-ü ÇkÛPÅ-VºÛ-fôG-¤Û-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-zÇÀPÅ-bï-±ôGÅ-ºhݺÛ-G®ô-BôP-zÅ-Pm-Ç+ݾ-‚Å-XïÅü G-hP-h¤G-¤Û-hˆãÅ-¤-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-z-ÉÛG-ÉÛG-ÅôGÅ-ºGÅ-¼Þ-hqôm-HÛ-ƒP-hP-¤Gô-mÅ-z Þ̧P-Çeï-ºfïm-q-ÅôGÅ-ZïÅ-lÝP-GÛÅü ¼Þ-hqôm-hï-G¼-zÅh-TÛP-Ÿ¾-Pô-lÝP-lïG-GÛÅ-©Å-Bôm-z¸ôÅü P-±ôºÛ-T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-Lm-IÅ-¸-¼ôP-z=-ÁÛÅ-hP-ü Lm-zhï-¤VôG-hzP-M¾-HÛÅ-¼P-¤Û-¼P-GÛÅ-zlÝP-¤Û-Zmü ŸïÅ-GÅÞPÅ-bï-DôP-GZÛÅ- Û̂Å-G®ôÅ-P-±ô-±P-¤Å-¼Þ-hqôm-;Ým-hGº-hP-Ÿ¾-Pô-n¤Å-hˆÛ¾-¾-zTßG-mÅ-¤fº-Ç+ô¼-ŸÛP-zÆâPÅü

Ç+zÅ-¼ï-±ôGÅ-Vïm-º±ôGÅ-bï-M-h¤G-hqôm-qôÅ-Eôh-±ôÅ-mG-ZïÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚Å-m-GÝ-»PÅ-ÆÛh-‚ãÅ-»ôh-qÅü PôÅ-¾ïm-Gž-qô-‚Å-m-¾¤-ÅïP-JÀôh-ˆÛ-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zÁh-ˆP-ü zôh-¤ÛºÛ-zŤ-„ÀôºÛ-Gô-dôGÅ-h¤º-ŸÛP-ü M-¤ÛºÛ-ÆÛh-‚ãÅ-¾-fï-±ô¤-BïÅ-mÅ-GmÅ-Ç+zÅ-¼ÛP-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚ïh-¤Dm-¤-‚ãP-»P-ü ¹-ÁÅ-XïÅ-¼Ûm-ÇtäPÅ-μôP-GÛ-hqôm-ŸÛG-GÛ-PôÅ-¾ïm-ŸÝ-»ÛG-ÁôG-zTß-IPÅ-ÁÛG-M-GŸÝP-GÛ-h¤G-hqôm-Í-¤hô-z-ŸÛG-

Page 82: 14 mount-everest-dingri

60

60 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

GÛÅ-±ôGÅ-ºhݺÛ-fôG->ÀôG-qºÛ-mP-ü P-hP-qô-BïÅ-±ßm-mÅ-¾Å-;-VߺÛ-¼Û-¤ô-®¤-»P-¤-‚Å-q¼-h-z¼-GZº-Gmôm-zÁÝ-GŸôG-Dô-mºÛ-º±ô-z-zB¾-ŸÛP-ü zÁÝ-GŸôG-‚ïh-ÇePÅ-mÛü ¤Û-Åï¼-mÅ-ºƒâ-¼ÛGÅ-hP-Á-¤¼-„ÀPÅ-q-hP-ü F¾-ºÞ-¾G-zÇ+ݾ-z-¤-¸hü PÅ-FÛ¤Å-GTôh-zbP-Çeï-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-zÅh-q-ÅôGÅ-ŸÛz-bà-zXôh-mü mG-ZïÅ-CºÛ-IPÅ-hP-VߺÛ-GZï¼-¤-¿e-zÞ-zÅGÅ-»ôh-TïÅ-ÅôGÅ-ºDôhü PôÅ-¾ïm-»ÛG-V-z>ÀGÅ-XïÅ-M-hqôm-HÛÅ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-GÝP-Fm-bP-GÛ-D-Gž-¾-GÝ-»PÅ-hP-ü Ç~Å-Ç+ݤ-¾-iG-Gmôm-HÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-ü Dô-GÝP-Fm-bP-GÛ-ÆÛh-‚ãÅ-¾-»Ûh-VïÅ-bï-mG-ZïÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚Å-q-¼ïhü TïÅ-¤Û-hï-ÇkÛPÅ-VºÛ-fôG-ºzôh-hï-¾G-ºEï¼-hP-»ÛG-V-zTÅ-vh-mÅ-JÀôh-Iô¾-zbP-ü

z®ôm-q-w¾-¤ô-VïºÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-¼Ûm-ÇtäPÅ-μôP-GÛ-hqôm-hïÅ-zÅGÅ-qºÛ-mG-ZïÅ-hG-fzÅ-¤ïh-ˆP-ü GÝP-Fm-bP-GÛÅ-mG-ZïÅ-Gž-qô¼-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚Å-m-JÀôh-ˆÛ-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-qºÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-hï-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¾G-Çe¼-‚ïh-ˆÛ-ºhÝG-lj¤-Çeïü M-hqôm-Í-¤hô-z-hï¼-ÁôG-«åG-hGôÅ-qºÛ-¼ï-z-ŸÝÅ-bï| ¼P-Åô-Åô-¾ô-zMh-mÅ-z®ôm-hÝ-¤-º±ßh-z¼-HÛ-mG-ZïÅ-Vï-z-h¤G-zMz-Çeï-M-h¤G-zÅh-qü OÛG-º²âGÅ-mP-ŸÝGÅ-qü ºyôG-zTô¤-‚Å-qü h=ôGÅ-Gb¤-zÁh-qü Pm-‚ãÅ-zbÛPÅ-q-ÅôGÅ-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-PôÅ-¾ïm-ŸÝ-»ÛG-ƒÛÅ-q-hP-ü ºGº-ÁÅ-ˆÛÅ-ÇS-®¤-JÀôh-Iô¾-»ôP-Mã¼-

Page 83: 14 mount-everest-dingri

61

Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ˆÛ-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qü 61

¼ï-Çeï-¤-‚Å-‚Å-±ß¾-Áôh-ˆÛ-»ôh-q-hqï¼-mü mô¼-JÀÛP-hÝ-ºwGÅ-q-¿ËºÛ-¤Dm-VßP-zÅôh-m¤Å-M-¤±ô-GÅôh-¤Dm-¾G-h¤¼-z-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-Áôh-¤Dm-zŸÛ-zM-®¤-‚ãP-z-mÅ-GZÛÅ-JÀôhü P-±ôºÛ-¼Þ-DG-zŸÛ-q¼-»P-¼P-ZÛh-¤-GbôGÅ-±P-¤Å-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚Åü

PôÅ-¾ïm-‚Å-q-hï-¿e¼-»P-¹-z-iâG-®¤-Mãm-HÛ-¾Å-;-‚ïh-Mã-¤-GbôGÅ-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-ÅôGÅ-TÛ-»P-¤ïh-q¼-ºW¤-fÛP-Pï¼-zŸG-TÛP-ü ZÛm-ŸÛG-Q-Vïm-HÛ-Dô¼-»ÞG-GÛ-¼Û-n¤Å-Gô-¤±ôm-fôGÅ-qºÛ-h¤G-GÛÅ-zÇ+ô¼-bï-±ôGÅ-Vïm-Ç+ôP-qºÛ-żü hï-¼ÛP-mÛ-iG-Gmôm-FÛ¤Å-GTôh-ˆÛ-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-Pô-vôh-‚Å-q-hP-ü ¹-ÁÅ-ÇSôm-¼P-Åô-ÅôÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-ŸÝÅ-qºÛ-ŸÝ-»ÛG-GÛ-mG-ZïÅ-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-ü z®ôm-Vh-¾ô-GÅÞ¤-mÅ-±ï-z®ôm-z¼-FÛ¤Å-fG-¤Û-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-zThü ±P-¤ºÛ-Åï¤Å-mP-GÝ-»PÅ-ºfôz-MãºÛ-¼ï-z-ÁÛm-bà-Vï-»P-ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-HÛÅ-w-¤-Çtäm-¤Vïh-ÁÛ-z-¿e-zÞºÛ-zŸÛm-¼Å-mG-¼ôG-Gï¼-Gݼ-hÝ-¾ôG-»ôP-ü

ZÛm-ÁÅ-mÅ-M-¾Å-ÅÞm-=ï-bô-»ôm-HÛÅ-h¤ÛGÅ-zž-GÝÅ-Dô-qºÛ-Gݼ-mP-ºzôh-hï-Dô-qÅ-f-¤G-GÛ-hÝ-z-¿ËôG-¿ËôG-Qâz-º‚Ûm-‚ïh-TÛP-üh¤ÛGÅ-zž-hGº-FôºÛ-n¤-ºHã¼-TÛ-»P-¤ïh-q¼-¾Å-‚ïh-q-;ôP-qô-z-zÇem-q-zMãh-hïP-zŤ-„Àô-TÛ-ŸÛG-ºDô¼-¼¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-q¼ü GÝÅ-ˆÛÅ-zŤ-„Àô-GbôP-Mã-hGôÅ-q-¤ïh-q-zŤ-„Àô-ºDô¼-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-zÁhü

Page 84: 14 mount-everest-dingri

62

62 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

Dô-qÅü »P-zB¼-D-ÅP-iG-Gmôm-FÛ¤Å-GTôh-Ç+zÅ-zŤ-±ß¾-G-¼ï-‚ãP-P¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅü PÅ-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-®¤-HÛ-mG-ZïÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚Å-q¼-zdïm-GÝP-Fm-bP-GÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-GÝ-»PÅ-JÀôh-Iô¾-zbP-zÅü ±P-¤Å-hï-¿e¼-»Ûm-q¼-lj¤-Çeï-mG-ZïÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚Å-ˆP-ü iG-Gmôm-FÛ¤Å-GTôh-‚Å-q-hï-mÛ-ÇSôm-HÛ-fG-GTôh-hP-XïÅ-ˆÛ-¾G-Çe¼-GZÛÅ-¯-z-mÅ-¤Û-¤±ßPÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁhü

M-¾Å-ÅÞm-=ï-bô-»m-HÛÅ-Eïh-¼P-Z¾-DP-hÝ-xÛm-bï-¤ºôºÛ-GÅÞP-¯ô¤-¾-»G-qô-¿eôÅü hïºÛ-mP-ÆÛh-WâÅ-hP-fzÅ-WâÅ-mÛ-bP-GÛ-ÆôG-¯-»Ûmü ¼Û¤-q-DG-GÛ-„Àô-¤fÞm-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-Èô¾-MãG-hP-ÇoP-¤ïh-Gbm-mÅ-‚ïh-¤Û-VôG-TïÅ-zÁh-»ôhü hï-mÛ-P-±ôºÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-hP-fzÅ-WâÅ-ÁÛG-ˆP-¼ïhü ¾G-¾ïm-hï-¿e-zÞ-ŸÛG-¤-zÇe¼-m-zôh-ˆÛÅ-¾ôG-uôh-q-n¤Å-ˆÛ-zŤ-„ÀôºÛ-¯-z-Gbm-mÅ-ÇSôG-¤Û-fÞz-TïÅ-zÁhü ¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛ-zŤ-„Àô¼-»P-hï-mÛ-¤Û-±ï-Vz-ÆÛh-ˆÛ-G»ô-ºyâ¾-uôh-q¼-¤DÅ-qºÛ-M-h¤¼-HÛ-G»ô-NåºÛ-ºôG-¾ÞG-¿e¼-JÀïm-ŸÛP-iP-qôºÛ-¾Å-¾-Gô¤Å-qºÛ-zôh-¤Û-n¤Å-º±ßh-ºhÝG-lj¤ü

uÛ-¾ô- 1960 ¹- 1 ±ïÅ-Á¼-¾-Q-Vïm-hÝ-ZÛm-¾Å-hP-¤±m-¾Å-‚ïh-¤Dm-Gbm-Dï¾-HÛÅ-¾Å-zGôÅ-zMz-TÛP-ü ÇSôm-HÛ-GŸÝP-ŸzÅ-Ç+Ý-iG-hP-ü D¤Å-qÅ-G®ôÅ-h¤G-Å-mÅ-z¸ÞP-zºÛ-¤Û-n¤Å-¾-ÇkP-

Page 85: 14 mount-everest-dingri

63

Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ˆÛ-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qü 63

Þ̧G-Vï-ŸÛP-ü ¾Å-¤Û-GŸm-¾Å-¾ôGÅ-ÅÞ-xï-mÅ-¼Þ-DG-GTÛG-z ô̧Åü ZÛm-¤±m-GP-hÝ-¾Å-;-‚ïh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-¤Û-ÅÞ-»Ûm-»P-¾Å-hÝÅ-hï¼-¤Û-GTÛG-GÛÅ-¾G-Eï¼-ZÛÅ-zM-zÅGÅ-hGôÅ-q-hP-ü lô-hzô¼-fïPÅ-¼ï-¾-¾G-Eï¼-¼ï-vôh-TÛP-ü ÇeôzÅ-Vïm-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-lô-Vïm-ºDÞ¼-fïPÅ-GTÛG-¾-¾G-Eï¼-zŸÛ-fôz-ˆP-ü ¤Û-¤P-Vï-z-¾G-Eï¼-HÛ-Vïh-hÝÅ-Dô¤-q-Ç+h-TÛG-ˆP-¤ïh-q¼-MãG-Á¼-Dô-m-JÀôh-hGôÅü

¤Û-n¤Å-ƒï¾- Û̧P-hï-¿eºÛ-¤Þ¼-zhï-ºWGÅ-¾-ºGm-ºDÞ¼-GP-»P-¤ïh-q¼-È-TP-fG-¤Û-¼ÛP-zºÛ-G»Å-G»ôm-mÅ-h¤G-Vïm-ŸÛG-zMG-GÛ-»ôh-q-zŸÛmü ¼Û-¾-zMz-qºÛ-ºz¼-μÅ-zMh-zM-®¤-HÛ-O-zÇeàh-¤¼-»P-»P-IGÅ-bï-¤Û-±ôGÅ-ˆÛ-hzÞÅ-ÅÞ-lô-hP-Å-ºfô¼-z-mÛ-Mãm-Gbm-HÛ-ÇoP-±ß¾-ŸÛG-¼ïhü

fïPÅ-ÁÛG-GÝP-±ÛGÅ-¤-¸Ûm-®¤-¾-ºz¼-μÅ-ˆÛ-O-ŸÛG-fôÅ-q-hP-ü hï-¤-fG-¤ÛºÛ-ºô-hôh-iG-qô-‚ïh-q-ºÞ-TG-¾Å-¤Û-zM-yG-®¤-Aïm-Pm-‚ãP-ż-MãGÅ-ˆP-ü M-h¤G-±ôÅ-Vß-±ôh-xïh-®¤-¼ÛP-z;G

f¾-z-º±ßz-zŸÛm-qºÛ-xôGÅ-hï¼-¿e-Ç+zÅ-Å-hP-lô-GÅïz-mÅ-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-C-mG-º²¼-¼ï¼-¤fôP-z-¾Åü GŸm-n¤Å-Å-ºôG-bà-hÛ¤-mÅ-¤ÛG-GÛÅ-¤Û-¤fôP-ü Aïm-Pm-hï¼-Eôm-¤Û-zTß-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-±ï-ÆôG-Áô¼-z-hP-ü G¾-bï-M-h¤G-GÛÅ-P-±ô-z;G-¤ïh-m-¤-¤f¼-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-hï-P-

Page 86: 14 mount-everest-dingri

64

64 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

±ôÅ-zBz-fÞz-PïÅ-¼ïhü¾ô-ÁÅ-ÇSôm-ºW¼-¤m-HÛÅ-¼ôGÅ-Bô¼-ºôG-¼P-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-Q-

Vïm-hÝ-JÀôG-DP-zMG-Mã-Gbm-ºDï¾-bïü JÀôG-VÅ-M-G¼-mÅ-¿Ë-ż-hzô¼-z-hP-ü ¼ÛºÛ-Ç+ïh-q-»P-GP-®¤-zTh-»ôh-q-hï-fôG-M-¤ÛÅ-¾ô-hïºÛ-¹-z-GÅÞ¤-q-®¤-¾-P-±ô¼-ZÛm-¤±m-;Ým-bà-zÇ+ݾ-hïh-ˆÛÅü ¼Û-Ç+ïh-zTh-ºyô-V-±P-GTôh-Mã-hP-ü lô-hzô¼-ºiïm-‚ïh-zTßG-Çeï-¼Û-zTh-Áݾ-zMãh-Vß-iP-mÅ-JÀôG-DP-z®ßGÅ-fzÅ-ºzh-z¯ôm-‚ïh-Ç+zÅü¤±m-¤ô-ŸÛG-ƒG-ZÛ¾-mÅ-z®ôm-q-zM-®¤-¼P-ż-ºhÅ-q-hP-ü JÀôG-ºôh-ˆÛÅ-Gž-zºÛ-lݾ-±ßz-ˆÛ-hzÞÅ-mÅ-¤Û-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-P-BôzÅ-¼ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-Ç+h-Pm-zMz-qü P-±ôºÛ-zTß-ÁôG-GÛ-¤Û-zMh-MãG-Çeï-¤Û-hï-lôºÛ-hˆÛ¾-mÅ-zbôm-Ç+zÅ-Vß-Áݾ-HÛ-Lm-qô-VôÅ-ºwï¾-»Ûm-q-hP-ü DôP-zBzÅ-fÞz-ˆP-@P-q-»-GTÛG-VG-Çeï-hrP-hrP-‚ïh-q-¸ÞG-G¸ï¼-HÛÅ-¤-z¸ôh-q¼-Vô-Pï-iG-bà-ºhôm-q¼ü PÅ-ºzÞ-¼Å-Çeôh-GôÅ-ˆÛÅ-@P-qºÛ-¼ÞÅ-q-zOÛGÅ-bïü zÇk¤Å-qÅ-hPôÅ-Gž-HÛÅ-¸ÞG-G¸ï¼-VßP-hÝ-xÛmü P-±ôÅ-DôP-z®ôm-qºÛ-Ǩm-DP-hÝ-Bï¾-Ç+zÅ-hï¼-©Å-Bôm-‚ãP-zºÛ-¤Û-GŸm-zMh-®¤-»P-ºFÛh-‚ãP-ü

GÝÅ-±ô-¹-z-¿SºÛ-¼ÛP-ZÛm-¤±m-£ï¾-bï-¼ÛºÛ-Ç+ïh-q-zTh-XïÅ-Vß-¼GÅ-MG-q¼-zbP-Çeïü VzÅ-TÛG-¤ºô-=â-ŸÛÅ-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-z¸ôÅ-

Page 87: 14 mount-everest-dingri

65

Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ˆÛ-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qü 65

qºÛ-fôm-Çtï¾-Iôm-VßP-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-¾Å-ºGݾ-Çtï¾-ŸÛP-ü =âP-GôºÛ-¤Û-¼ï-¼ïÅ-¼P-GÛ-¸Å-mÅ-ºƒÅ-lôG-GTÛG-zÅG-m-ºƒÅ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-GTÛG-DïPÅ-ˆÛ-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-hï-P-±ôºÛ-º±ô-z-ZÛm-¼ï-¾Å-¤-ºhÅ-q¼-f-Ÿm-hÝ-zbP-Çeïü W-¾ô-hP-ü ¼P-‚ãP-GÛ-ÇSô-¼ÛGÅü f-m-®Û-®Û-hP-Å-ºôG-ºzÞ-ÆÛm-ÅôGÅ-ˆP-¾ôPÅ-uh-hGôÅ-‚ãP-ü

ZÛm-¼ï¼-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-ZÝP-¤f¼-z®ôm-q-zMh-®¤-ºhÅ-q-hP-ü GÁÛm-qô-n¤Å-ˆÛ-Hôm-GôÅ-GTÛG-bà-ÇtäPÅ-Ç+zÅ-¼Û-VßP-¿e-zÞºÛ-GbôÅ-VGÅ-q-„Àô-w¤-ÁÛm-bà-Vïm-qô-BïÅü hqï¼-mü z¸P-z¸P-hqôm-PG-hzP-¤Gôm-qô-¸Å-zTßh-¤-ºhP-z¼-Z¾-Gݼ-mP-¾ÞÅ-Aïm-¼ôGÅ-q-n¤Å-¾ü G¾-bï-P-¾-¯¤-q-fÞ¼-¤-GP-vh-m-GÅôÅ-»ôP-Å-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-ˆP-¼ôGÅ-q-ÅÞ-¾ºP-¯¤-q-vôh-Mã-¤ïh-ÇezÅ-DôP-h;º-ÇkÝG-Vïm-qôºÛ-PP-ºhÅü

Ç+zÅ-hï¼ü ±h-GŸÛ-;Û-¾ô-¤Û-‡¼-zŸÛ-»ôh-qºÛ-¼GÅ-hï-z Û̄GÅ-Ç+zÅ-Pïh-TG-GŸôm-BïÅ-±ô-Çeôh-¾-fï¼-Gï-iâh-q-hP-ÇÀï-zô-Mz-¾-ºDÞ¼-bï-¾Å-;-‚ïh-hGôÅü z®ôm-q-Lm-q-±ôÅ-P-±ôºÛ-º±ô-z¼-Åï¤Å-ºDÞ¼-HÛÅ-GŸm-zÇ+ݼ-Mã-¤ïh-ˆP-ü ̄ Û-VßP-iÛ-ÇkÝG-ŸïÅ-ÇSô-¼ÛGÅ-iÛ-¿km-ŸÛG-zÇ+ݼ-»P-z®ô-zºÛ-V-Aïm-®¤-¤ïh-qÅü hï-hG-Xïm-q¼-z¸º-»Û-»ôhü

GÅôm-qô¼-GmÅ-q-n¤Å-ˆP-¾Å- ô̄¾-¿UÛ-ŸÛP-¿eôGÅ-z=ïÅ- Û̂Å-

Page 88: 14 mount-everest-dingri

66

66 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¾ÞÅ-¸ÞPÅ-¸h-hïü ¤Û-hÝ-¤-ŸÛG-¤±m-Æï-¾ôP-hÝ-Hã¼-mÅ-GTÛm-q-GbôP-z¼-»P-ºFÛh-hGôÅü T-hP-hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-¤Û-hP-G-hP-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-h¤G-GZÛÅ-hP-M-h¤G-P-hGݺÛ-¾ô¼-h¤G-ºFâG-‚ãP-¤ïh-q-DG-GTÛG-EÛ¤-hÝ-ÇÀôG-q-hP-ü M-GŸÝP-¾-n¤-ºHã¼-¾ïGÅ-qô-¤Û-Çeôm-qºÛ-¤Û-xïh-¿ËG-®¤-‚P-hÝ-±-¾-h;¼-qô-Ghôm-q-hP-ü xïh-;ôP-qô¼-ÁÛP-GTôh-q¼-¤PGÅü

ZÛm-ŸÛG-P-±ô-¤Û-zŸÛ-zTß-®¤-¼Û-GÁ¤-hÝ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-mP-lô-„ÀâGÅ-Ç+zÅ-fG-¼ÛP-¼Û-¤Gô-mÅ-EÛ-Ç+h-TÛG-IGÅ-»ôP-zü ¾ÞÅ-¿eG-q-Hï¼-Hï¼-PP-¼Û-¤Gô¼-z¿eÅ-qÅ-EÛ-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-JÀ-z-ŸÛG-hïh-ˆÛmü Åô-zMz-Çeï-Çtä-B-¾ôG-Gï¼-Gbô¼-HÛm-P-±ôºÛ-xôGÅ-»ôP-ü JÀ-z-fP-Vh-mÅ-D-GhPÅ-ÁÛP-P-±ô-hP-È-TP-Zï-z¼-º‚ô¼ü ¤Û-¿eôGÅ-DôG-q¼-¤ï-ºz¼-m| |M¾-qôºÛ-FÛ¤Å-¾-»-¤Û-P-ü üŸïÅ-q-¿e¼-¤hÝm-hÝ-»ôh-qºÛ-EÛ-hï-¾Å-ˆP-ÇkÝG- ç̄z-Vï-zºÛ-uP-Eã-¸Å-¾-Q¤-q-¿e¼-P-±ô-¤Û-zTô-¿S-±P-¤Å-JÀ-zºÛ-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-Áô¼ü

P-¼P-¤HôGÅ-ÁôÅ-»Ûm-qÅ-JÀ-z-z¸ÞP-fÞz-mÅ-¤¼-ºEï¼-hÝÅ-M-¤Û-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-D-¾ô-z-ŸÛG-»ôh-qü Dô-qÅ-¾¤-ÅïP-PºÛ-Zï-ºFÛÅ-zT¼-mÅ-JÀ-zºÛ-½ÀÛG-fP-¾-Çt¼-¤ôÅ-zljzÅ-bïü Wï¤-®ïÅ-iÅ-mÅ-ºEï¼üJÀ-¯Û¼-ºhôh-Q¤Å-‚Å-ˆP-JÀ-¯Û-Pô-¤-ÁïÅ-q-¼ïhü

¼ôGÅ-q-GŸm-HÛÅ-JÀ-z-D-z Û̂G-mÅ-zÅh-TÛP-ü PÅ-JÀ- Û̄-z;ôG-

Page 89: 14 mount-everest-dingri

67

Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ˆÛ-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qü 67

mÅ-Z¼ü TßP-mÅ-M-¾Å-¼Þ-hqôm-Lm-q-ŸÛG-»ôP-Çeï-JÀ-z-wô-¤ô-GP-»Ûm-iÛÅü PÅ-wô-JÀ-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü JÀ-¯Û-GP-hÝ-»ôh-h¤-¸ï¼ü P-¾-»ôh-TïÅ-¾m-zbz-qÅü JÀ-z-VßP-PÞÅ-Eôh-±ô-zM-ÁôG-iâG-GÛ-¤Û-¾-¸-¼Ûm-TÛ-»P-¤ïh-qÅ-JÀ-¯Û-GŸÝP-¾-vh-hGôÅ-q-hP-ü Eïh-±ô¼-wG-Á-vh-VôG-TïÅ-zÁh-q-zŸÛmü JÀ-¯Û-vh-XïÅ-;Û-¾ô-zŸÛ-zTß-¼ï-»ôh-qºÛ-wG-Á-Ç+¤-qô-hô-qô-GZÛÅ-vh-‚ãP-ü ZÛm-GZÛÅ-¼ÛP-wG-Á-z¸º-Mã-‚ãP-zÅ-¤ÛG-¤Û-¤fôP-z-n¤Å-hP-ü mh-q-n¤Å-G-¾ï¼-ÅôÅü

¿eôGÅ-z=ïÅ- Û̂-h;º-P¾-ŸÛ-z-hP-EÛÅ-JÀ-z-P-±ô-¿eôGÅ-qºÛ-¤ÛºÛ-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-hïh-»ôP-z-¿Ë-ÆâP-GÛ-ºyÛm-¾Å-¤Ûm-m¤-lj¤-q-hP-ü »P-xôGÅ-GTÛG-mÅ-ºVÛ-ÆôG-¾-fÞG-Çeï-ºWÛGÅ-CG-GÛÅ-ƒôÅ-bï-»m-¾G-GÛ-ÅÞG-¤fÛ¾-¸h-TÛP-ü ¾ÞÅ-ˆÛ-Çtä-¯ï-n¤Å-ÅÞ-»P-Qâ¾-mG-GÛ-¸Û¾-q-Fâ¤-¤ï¼-DïPÅ-bïü È-TP-nô-zºÛ-¤Vï-z-z½À-hP-@Ýz-ÇeïP-fïPÅ-ºGº-z®ßGÅ-mÅ-FG-º²¼-º²¼-‚ïh-ˆP-ü mÝÅ-ÁÝGÅ-GP-»ôh-ˆÛÅ-MãGÅ-¤VôPÅ-GP-fÞz-ƒôÅ-Ç+zÅü ÇezÅ-¾ïGÅ-q¼-fG-¼ÛP-mÅ-¤Gô-mG-¤Û-¤fôP-Aïm-¤Þm-q¼-B-¼ïPÅ-ˆÛ-ºôh-ÇoP-ºyô-z-¿e-zÞºÛ-hGº-zÅü BzÅ-zTô¾-z¼-»ôP-»P-ÇSô-ŸÛP-hÐPÅ-qºÛ-m¤-¤D¼-JÀô-zÞ¼-vÛm-mG-º±ßz-q-¿e¼ü P-±ô-¤Gô-mG-¤Û-ÇSôm-HÛ-EÛ-hï-¾Å-ˆP-¿kz-zM-yG-GÛÅ-ºWÛGÅ-QPÅ-Vï-zºÛ-ÆÛm-qô¼-Hã¼-bïü ºhôh-qºÛ-¤Vï-z-G®ÛGÅ-mÅ-JÀ-z-Z¤-VßP-GÛ-¾ÞÅ-

Page 90: 14 mount-everest-dingri

68

68 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ÆôG-Ç+h-TÛG-¾-©ïG-¤ïh-hÝ-zTô¤Å-qºÛ-ÆÛm-qô-G®ô-zô-hï-P-»Ûm-lj¤-Çeï-»Ûh-Bô-z-¾-±h-¤ïh-q-‚ãP-ü

Q-Vïm-JÀôG-DP-GÛ-Vß-¼GÅ-Vïm-qô-hï-zMz-Ç+zÅ-zôh-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-M-G¼-mÅ-zbôm-qºÛ-(P-±ôÅ-M-G¼-mÅ-EôGÅ-¾-hzô¼-IÅü)½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-D-ÁÅ-»ôh-q-hï-n¤Å-Å-lô-ºzô¼-‚ïh-G®ô-zô-hP-ü zôh-ˆÛ-z®ôm-q-Åï¼-B-¤Û-¤P-ÇeôP-yG-hÝ-¤-mÅ-ºGÅ-d-ºfïm-ºDô¼-¾ô-hP-ü ºGÅ-fï¼-VßP-ü ºGÅ-ÇÀï-qô-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛ-mP-Å-lô-hzô¼-ºiïm-‚ïh-hGôÅü ¾ô-hï-GºÛ-hrÛh-;-Vß-¼GÅ-;Û-¾ô-¤Û-‡¼-zŸÛ-®¤-zMz-±¼-Ç+zÅü G®P-qôºÛ-w-¼ô¾-mÅ-zM-ÁôG-¿S-iâG-®¤-HÛÅ-±ß¼-Vß-¼GÅ-;Û-¾ô-¤Û-‡¼-GTÛG-hP-xïh-®¤-zMz-TÛP-ü BÛh-Vß-xïh-z;G- Û̄Å- Û̂Å-Vß-mP-lô-VG-ÅôGÅ-zbÛPÅ-Ç+zÅü ZÛm-ŸÛG-MÅ-ÁÛP-¡-½ÀzÅ-Lôh-qºÛ-h‚¼-HÛ-G®P-Vß-¤hôG-D¤Å-Åï¼-¾ôP-¾ôP-mP-¤Û-GTÛG-¸GÅ-bï-ºEï¼-»P-ü ÇezÅ-¾ïGÅ-q¼-¾G-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-Vß-hˆÛ¾-HÛ-Vß-¼GÅ-ŸÛG-¼ô¼-ºf¤-fÞzü

ºôm-ˆP-Vß-mÅ-fôm-fÞz-fzÅ-¤ïh-q¼-@P-q-GZÛÅ-Vß-D¼-¿Ëïz-¿Ëïz-GmÅ-q¼-ym-HÛÅ-¤Û-hï-zBz-MãºÛ-;Ým-ÇÀôP-zTPÅ-ÁÛP-G®P-Vß¼-¤VôPÅ-mÅ-A¾-zMz-Çeïü ¤Û-hïºÛ-¤hÝm-xÛm-mÅ-¾G-GÛÅ-¼GÅ-¾-z¸ÞP-fÞz-ˆP-Vß-ÁÝGÅ-ˆÛÅ-@P-qºÛ-qÞÅ-¤ô-¼GÅ-lô¼-zlzÅ-mÅ-©Å-Bôm-GP-®¤-‚ãP-ü mÝÅ-ÁÝGÅ-»ôh-LÝÅ-¼GÅ-ÇeïP-º²ïGÅ-mÅ-¤Û-

Page 91: 14 mount-everest-dingri

69

Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ˆÛ-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qü 69

hïºÛ-¾G-q-mÅ-»¼-ºfïm-ŸÛP-ü ¾Å-¼ôGÅ-n¤Å-¾-MP-mÅ-ºzôh-hï-G®P-VߺÛ-D¼-»ôh-qºÛ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-HÛ-ºDô¼-¾ôºÛ-mP-qGÅ-fôG-¤Û-GTÛG-fG-qÅ-zbGÅ-mÅ-Vß-fôG-»ôP-hGôÅ-zXôh-q-¿e¼ü DôP-±ôÅ-¤Û-GTÛG-zbP-‚ãP-zÅ-¤Û-GZÛÅ-ºDô¼-¾ô¼-zbGÅ-mÅ-w¼-ºfïm-zTßG-XïÅü ¼P-ZÛh-GŸÛ-mÅ-A¾-zMz-mÅ-G®P-Vß-zO¾ü XïÅ-ÅÞ-¤Û-hïºÛ-BïÅ-»Þ¾-Çeôh-¾ÞP-B-zô-mÅ-»Ûm-q-hP-¤ÛP-¾-fÞz-zÇem-¸ï¼-zºÛ-IÔ-q-ŸÛG-»Ûm-q-ÁïÅ-‚ãP-ü

xôGÅ-DG-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-¼GÅ-¼Û¤-qÅ-zMz-qÅ-G®P-VߺÛ-D-ŸïP-VßP-hÝ-ºIô-z-hP-ü ¼GÅ-ˆÛ-xÛ¼-z¯ÛGÅ-qºÛ-lô-Ç+Å-ºi-zºÛ-¯ÛGÅ-q-n¤Å-ˆP-xïh-®¤-Iâzü ºôm-ˆP-D-ŸïP-VßP-zºÛ-G®P-qô-n¤Å-Vß-ÁÝGÅ-Wï-Vï¼-xÛm-mÅ-ZÛm-¤±m-z¼-¤ïh-Vß-mP-Å-lô-„ÀâGÅ-ˆP-ºEï¼-bï-¯-z-mÅ-z;G-¤-fÞz-qÅü ¤Û-¤P-qôÅ-¤Z¤-¼Þz-ˆÛÅ-lô-Vïm-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-mP-„ÀâGÅ-bï-Vß-mP-¿kÝG-Ç+zÅ-lô-Vïm-n¤Å-ˆP-Vß-ÁÝGÅ-ˆÛÅ-hïhü

¤fº-¤¼-ÁÛP-GhÝP-¤-¼ÛP-qôÅ-yïh-z;G-zbP-ŸÛP-Oô¤-z¸ôÅ-fôG-±-±-ºÞ¼-ºÞ¼-HÛÅ-z¼-¤±¤Å-¤ïh-q¼ü lô-Vï-VßP-Ço-±ôGÅ-„ÀâGÅ-qÅ-¤f¼-G®P-Vß-z;G-fÞz-q-hP.ü ÇSGÅ-q-±P-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-GŸÛÅ-;-hP-M-Vï-zºÛ-Å-ŸÛP-n¤Å-zÇoÝzÅ-mÅ-Å-hï-¤±ïºÞ¼-Hã¼ü

hGÝm-hÝÅ-ÅÞ-ÇÀïzÅ-Ç+zÅ-ºEÛ¾-VߺÛ-fôh-¾-¿UGÅ-Ç+Ýh-zbP-

Page 92: 14 mount-everest-dingri

70

70 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

Çeï-hï-fôG-qP-¾ïz-z;z-qºÛ-vÛm-¸¤-¼ÛP-±h-;Û-¾ô-¤Û-‡¼-xïh-®¤-ŸÛG-GÛ-hˆÛ¾-hÝ-w-¼ô¾-mÅ-¤ÛÅ-iâh-fï¼-VßP-hP-ü ¤fº-GZÛÅ-ÅÞ-¤ÛÅ-ÇK¾-q¼-ÇÀï-qô-ÅôGÅ-ºEï¼-mÅ-Ç+h-TÛG-ˆP-Dô¤-q-¤ïh-q¼-w¼-ºIô-±ß¼-ºôP-‚ïh-hÝÅ-¸¤-q-»ô¤-Vïm-qô-fïzÅ-mÅü ¤ÛºÛ-zhï-ºWGÅ-¾-Zïm-D-ÁÛm-bà-Vï-zÅü hï-¼ÛP-¾P-¾ÛP-ºEG-zG-fÞG-qôÅ-DïPÅ-ÁÛP-ü ÇSô-¤ï¼-¤ï¼-HÛ-hGÝm-HÛ-G®P-qôºÛ-Zïm-D-¾Å-f¼-»P-ÅP-ZÛm-TÛ-‚Å-»ôP-P¤-lj¤-Çeï-±P-¤ºÛ-Åï¤Å-hPPÅ-º±z-ˆÛ-PP-GmÅü

bG-bG-ZÛm-ŸÛG-GÝÅ-Vß-D¼-Å-¿kÝG-Ç+zÅ-¤Û-Vß-¾-̧ GÅ-Åôü ŸïÅ-ºô-ºzôh-‚ïhü w¼-z¿eÅ-q-hP-¤Û-ºGÅ-GÝÅ-q¼-PG-hzP-¤Û-zBz-q¼-ÁôG-hP-ŸïÅ-ºzôh-»ôP-ü

ym-HÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-ºVÛ-ºhôh-qºÛ-¤Û-ÅÞ-»P-¤ïh-qÅ-PïÅ-q¼-zBz-fÞz-q-‚-»Û-»Ûm-lj¤-Çeïü ¸¤-Çoï¼-Ç+h-TÛG-¾-MãGÅ-bï-VßÅ-ºEï¼-¤Û-hï-GP-hÝ-»ôh-z¿eÅ-qÅü ¤Û-hïºÛ-ÇK¾-q-hP-ÇÀï-qô-¤-ƒ¾-z¼-ÇÀï-qôÅ-¤Gô-zô-zˆGÅ-mÅ-Ç+ô¼-z-¾ÛP-¾ÛP-h¾-zÞÅ-ºEï¼-zü ¾¤-ÅïP-fï¼-VßP-n¤Å-ˆÛ-fG-q-z=ô¾-zŸÛm-¤fÞh-zMz-TÛP-ü P-¼P-GÛ-Ç+ïh-q-zÇk¤Å-mÅ-fG-Çoï-¸¤-¤f¼-zbGÅ-XïÅ-¤Û-ÆôG-Bôz-Vïh-ºVÛ-»P-¤Û-ºHôh-lj¤-Çeïü ̧ ¤-hˆÛ¾-mÅ-Vß¼-¤VôPÅ-bï-A¾-zMz-mÅ-¤Û-hïºÛ-¤hÝm-º‚ô¼-¤-fG ¤Û-hïÅ-GÝÅ- Û̂-¾G-GZÛÅ-h¤-hÝ-z Þ̧P-qÅ-A¾-MG-¤-ÁïÅ-q¼-¤Z¤-hÝ-ºEï¼-

Page 93: 14 mount-everest-dingri

71

Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ˆÛ-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qü 71

z| PÅ-Eïh-¼P-zBz-q¼-»ôP-qÅ-JÀôh-hP-ŸïÅ-zÁh-ˆP-¤-JÀôh-q¼-GZÛÅ-;-Vß-mP-»Þh-®¤-hÛ¤-mÅ-PºÛ-n-TôG-¾-Vß-º²â¾ü hï-ºy¾-¾G-q-G»Å-Áô¼-z-hP-ü ¾G-G»ôm-HÛÅ-¤Û-hï-h¤-hÝ-z¸ÞP-Çeï-A¾-MG-GÛm-Ç+¤-źÛ-¤Û-n¤Å-¾-fG-q-mÅ-ºfïm-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-ºzôhü

w-¼ô¾-Vß-D-mÅ-M-¾Å-¼Þ-hqôm-;ôP-qô-z-zÇem-qÅ-ÁÛP-¼Û¾-ŸÛG-¾-zŸôm-mÅ-P-GZÛÅ-zBz-q¼-»ôP-¯ÛÅ-‚ïh-ˆP-ü ÁÛP-Vß-mP-w¼-±ß¼-ºIÛ¾-mÅ-»ôP-¤Û-fÞz-q-¤-¸hü Vß-D¼-¸P-¸ÛP-¾P-¾ôP-‚ïhü PÅ-fG-q-ºfïm-hGôÅ-qºÛ-zl-vh-qÅ-¤Û-ºGÅ-ºfïm-ºy¾-P-GZÛÅ-Vß-D¼-fôm-»P-VßÅ-ºEï¼-¤Û-hïÅ-h-hÝP-GÝÅ-¤-JÀôh-q¼-ºf¤-mÅ-Çkôhü

GÝÅ-ˆÛ-hqÞP-q-ºEG-zG-GÛÅ-zÁG-mÅ-FG-h¤¼-º²¼-º²¼-fôm-q¼-zdïmü ¤Û-hï-hP-GÝÅ-Ǩm-DP-hÝ-ºFÛh-mÅ-zdG-hrh-‚Åü PÅ-zBzÅ-qºÛ-¤Û-hïÅ-P-¾-Dô-¼P-GÛ-¤ÛP-¾-z®m-ŸÐ-¸ï¼-z-hP-ü BïÅ-»Þ¾-D¤Å-hP-ü Åï¼-Ǩh-¤Û-ZG-DP-±m-HÛ-IÔ-q-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-Pô-vôh-‚Åüz®m-ŸÐ¼-M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-Vß¼-¤VôPÅ-q-hP-¸GÅ-q-TÛ-»Ûm-iÛ-ŸÛz-‚Å-q¼üz®m-ŸÐÅ-Vß¼-¸GÅ-q-¾Å-¤VôPÅ-¤ïh-zXôh-ˆP-Vß-¾-¤VôPÅ-qºÛ-mG-ZïÅ-G»ôGÅ-¯ÛÅ-‚Å-q-hP-ü GÝÅ-q¼-M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-Eïh-¼P-h;º-P¾-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-»ôh-qÅ-ÅP-ZÛm-P¾-GÅô¼-Çkôhü ¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qÅ-È-TP-»G-qô-¼ïh-zXôhü

Page 94: 14 mount-everest-dingri

72

72 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¼ïÅ-G¸º-ZÛ-¤-ŸÛG-¾-GÝÅ-Z¾-Gݼ-mP-zÇkh-»ôh-Ç+zÅ-M-¾Å-¼Þ-hqôm-zÇem-qÅ-xÛ-mÅ-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-Eïh-¼P-GÛ-z¸º-¹-º‚ô¼-ÅôP-ü ŸïÅ-ºzôh-q-zŸÛmü ¸ï-¤-¼-ÇKôºÛ-¼-zºÛ-xÛ-ÇKô¼-zBôh-qÅ-ÇKô-ºI¤-PºÛ-z¸º-¹-Çtïm-q-¤±¤Å-GTôh-ÇK¾-q¼-wh-GôG-TÛG-ºDÞ¼-mÅ-P-ÇKÝG-ºhÝG-qü P-¤fôP-¤-fG-¾¤-ÅïP-¤ÛG-Vß-yâ¤-yâ¤-zŸÝ¼-HÛm-¤±¤Å-ºiÛ-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü EÛ¤-mÅ-ºDÞ¼-zºÛ-¸Å-¼ÛGÅ-ºGº-vh-q-hP-ü Eôh-¼P-¤-JÀôh-z¼-Q-Vïm-hÝ-¾Å-¤Û-‚Å-bï-zÇkh-Mã-»Ûm-±ß¾-zÁh-qü PÅ-JÀôh-Mã-h;º-¾Å-DG-qô-¼ïhü ÇS-®¤-¾ôG-m-¾ïGÅ-zÁh-ˆP-Eïh-¼P-¾-z¸P-Pm-h‚ï-z-¤-Vôh-qºÛ-z¼-zÇkh-ˆÛ-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-¾Å-¤Û-‚Å-mÅ-zÇkhü

uÛ-¾ô- 1961 ¹- 6 qºÛ-mP-z®ôm-q-ºƒÛ-GÝP-GmÅ-¤ôºÛ-IÔ-q-ŸÛG-Vß¼-¸GÅ-q-¾Å-ˆP-zBzÅ-q-»Ûmü

¾ô-hïºÛ-h‚¼-DºÛ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-GÛ-GÝP-±ÛGÅ-Ç+zÅ-M-¤Û-GZÛÅ-£æ¤-zÞºÛ-h‚ÛzÅ-Tm-Iâ-VßP-ŸÛG-ºEÛ¾-¤±ô¼-zbP-mÅ-Z-º²Ûm-hÝ-ÇÀïzÅüºEÛ¾-¤±ô-Eôm-»ôPÅ-h¾-qô¼-ºzz-ˆP-xôGÅ-GTÛG-bà-¡z-G¸¼-ŸÛG-»ôh-qºÛ-Zï-ºFÛÅ-Z-Iâ-GbôP-zŸÛm-qü P-±ôÅ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-¤hÝm-Bôh-‚-m-Zïm-D-»ôh-qÅ-xÛ¼-¾ôG-hGôÅ-qºÛ-„ÀP-‚-zbôm-»P-ü Zm-Åï¤Å-¯-z-mÅ-¤ïh-q¼-»ôP-Ç+zÅü Z-Iâ-»Þh-®¤-¤Gô-dÛP-¾ôG-mÅ-»¼-

Page 95: 14 mount-everest-dingri

73

Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿e ôGÅ-ˆÛ-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qü 73

¾PÅ-Ç+zÅ-¤Û-GTÛG-Vß-¾-¸GÅ-mÅ-IâºÛ-¤WâG-¾-A¾-MG-GÛm-»ôP-Ç+zÅü M-¾Å-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-GÝÅ-q¼-M-¤Û-hï-Vß-mÅ-Ghôm-hGôÅ-zXôh-qÅ-GÝÅ-qºÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-Dô-q-mÛ-¼P-hzP-Tm-HÛ-¤Û-hP-ü ¼P-ZÛh-mÛ-¼P-hzP-ƒ¾-zºÛ-z®ôm-q-»Ûm-lj¤-Çeïü M-¾Å-¾-hï-¼ÛP-GÝÅ-G¸ÞGÅ-qô-¤Û-zhï-zÅ-hGôPÅ-q-GmP-¼ôGÅü ŸïÅ-zÁh-hï-¤-xÛm-qÅ-M-¤Û-hï-hzÞGÅ-ˆÛÅ-¤-ºhP-z¼-Vß-mP-ÁÛ-z-¼ïhü

XïÅ-ÅÞ-M-¾Å-mÅ-±ôGÅ-ºhݺÛ-Ç+zÅ-GÝÅ-q¼-zôh-¼ÛGÅ-ÁÛG-Vß-mP-¸GÅ-m-Ç+h-¤-zbP-»P-ü Zïm-D¼-º²ï¤-¤ïh-Bôz-q¼-ºIô-z-hP.ü M-¼ÛGÅ-»Ûm-m-Ç+h-zbP-»P-ºIô-GÛ-¤ïh-±ß¾-ÅôGÅ-hï-ÇSôm-¤Û-fïPÅ-GÅÞ¤-zBzÅ-q¼-zÇeôh-zÇSGÅ-‚Å-ˆP-ü ¤f¼-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-h‚ï-º‚ïh-qºÛ-ZïÅ-q-GÅôG-q¼-z¯ÛÅ-mÅ-»Þm-¼ÛP-z®ôm-hÝ-Z¼-ºV¼-hP.üZÛm-¤±m-¿eôÅ-¤ïh-ÁÝGÅ-¾Å- Û̂Å-P¾-hÝz-Vï-D¼-¸Å- Û̂Å-Iôh-q-¤Û-MG-q-hP-ü GôÅ-ˆÛÅ-¾ÞÅ-¤Û-ºfÞ¤-qºÛ-ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-z¸ôh-¤-fÞz-q¼-GÝÅ-hP-M¾-¯ï-¤ÛG-h¤¼-GZÛÅ-ƒôÅ-MãºÛ-ºV¼-GŸÛ-z;ôhü

¼ïÅ-G¸º-ZÛm-¤-ŸÛG-¤ÛG-h¤¼-z¸º-º±ô-GZÛÅ-hP-ü Pïh-z¸º-±ô-GZÛÅ-º²ô¤Å-bï-ZÛm-¿S-qºÛ-fôG-Q-Vïm-JÀôG-DP-GÛ-fôh-ƒG-»ï¼-q¼-º²ô¤Å-hÝÅ-zbz-TÛP-ü M¾-¯ï-¤ÛG-h¤¼-HÛ-@P-q¼-hï-ÇSôm-¿UGÅ-ÉïP-ºwôGÅ-qÅ-ºE¼-Eô¼-‚ïh-q-GÝÅ-mÅ-ÇkÝG-¼ÞÅ-‚Å-bï-@P-q-m-±ß¾-

Page 96: 14 mount-everest-dingri

74

74 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

‚ïh-Mã-¤ïhü M-¤ÛºÛ-hqôm-qôÅ-¤fôP-m-¾Å-»Þ¾-mÅ-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-ÇÀôG-GÛ-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁhü DôP-GÛÅ-ˆP-PÅ-ºzh-z¯ôm-Vïm-qôÅ-PïÅ-q¼-hÝÅ-fôG-º²ô¤Å-fÞz-q-‚ïh-ˆÛ-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zÁhü

hÝÅ-zbz-q-zŸÛm-ym-»ï¼-qºÛ-ƒG-wÞG-bà-xÛm-qÅ-zÞh-¤ïh-GZÛÅ-ÇÀïzÅ-ºhÝG-ˆP-ü M¾-¯ï-¤ÛG-h¤¼-ÇÀïzÅ-¤Û-ºhÝG ZÛm-hï¼-hÝÅ-»Þm-GP-¤±¤Å-ÇKÝG-ˆP-»ôP-¤Dm-¤Û-ºhÝG-qÅ-DôP-GÛ-z¸º-¹Å-º±ô¾-z¼-xÛmü

GÝÅ- Û̂Å-Eïh-GZÛÅ-ZÛm-GZÛÅ-z¼-PÅ-ÇKÝG-VôG-TïÅ-zXôhü hï-mÅ-hÝÅ-»Þm-GP-¤±¤Å-mÅ-M-h¤G-zTß-ÁôG-GTÛG-GÛÅ-M¾-¯ï-¤ÛG-h¤¼-¾-¿UGÅ-zMz-mÅ-ƒG-»ï¼-q¼-ºFÛh-‚ãP-ü DôP-±ôÅ-GÝÅ-ˆP-fG-qÅ-zÇk¤Å-‚ãP-z-ÅôG-q-xÛ-mP-¤-¾ôG-qºÛ-Vïh-GÝÅ-̂ ÛÅ-ÁÝGÅ-zOÛ¤Å-qÅ-fG-q-fïPÅ-GZÛÅ-®¤-Vhü

M¾-¯ï-¤ÛG-h¤¼-fG-qÅ-zÇk¤Å-Vï-zÅ-ƒP-ºzÞ¼-hÝ-fôm-ŸÛP-ÅôG-q-xÛ-mP-ÇÀôG-»ôh-qÅ-¸ÞG-Qâ-iG-bà-ºhôm-q¼ü GÝÅ-qÅ-¤ÛG-h¤¼-¾-h-mÛ-¤-z ô̧h-¤-¾m-¤-ºHôh-GP-»P-‚-Mã-¤ïhü fzÅ-ÇkÝG-GÛÅ-GmÅ-Ç+zÅ-ºhÛ-¼P-GÛÅ-z¸ôÅ-q-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-q-»Ûmü M-h¤G-GÛÅ-GÝÅ-GZÛÅ-¾-lôG-qÅ-lïG-GÛm-z;G-Z¼-‚Å-q-hP-ü z¸º-¹-GZÛÅ-¾Å-»Þ¾-hÝ-zB¾ü

Page 97: 14 mount-everest-dingri

75

Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ˆÛ-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qü 75

P-GZÛÅ-¾-ºfz-º²ÛP-Vïh-±ôGÅ-Vïm-º±ôGÅ-bï-¾Å-¤ÛÅ-M¾-¯ï-¤ÛG-h¤¼-HÛ-C-z;ôG-TÛP-ºI¤-¿UG-hP-ü n-mÅ-ºfïm-qü DÞ-±ß¼-lïG-q-¾-ÅôGÅ-qºÛ-lÝP-lïG-±h-¤ïh-zbP.ü ¤ÛG-h¤¼-¾-hï-¿e¼-fh-lÝP-GbôP-hGôÅ-hôm-mÛü ¤ÛG-h¤¼-HÛÅ-¾Å-»Þ¾-hÝ-ÇkÝG-¼ÞÅ-¤-‚Å-q¼-@P-q-ºE¼-ºEô¼-‚Å-q¼-zdïmü M-hqôm-HÛÅ-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-ÇÀôG-TÛP-ü ƒG-»ï¼-q¼-º²ô¤Å-hÝÅ-ZÛm-z®ôm-DP-mÅ-f¼-fzÅ-¤ïh-ˆP-º±z-Á-¾PÅ-bï-»¼-¤¼-fïPÅ-¤P-xÛm-qÅü M-hqôm-¾-hôGÅ-q-‚ãP-Çeï-iÛ-¯h-‚Å-Aïm-GÝÅ-hP-zÞh-¤ïh-GZÛÅ-»ï¼-qºÛ-ƒG-wÞG-bà-ÇKÝG-»ôh-Ç+ô¼-zÁh-hïü hôm-¤ïh-½‰ôG-FºÛ-Bô-¤-zÇÀPÅ-qÅ-¾Å-¤Û-±ô-DôP-FôºÛ-¤ï-¿Uï-ºz¼-»ôhü

GÝÅ-q¼-¾Å-¤Û-n¤Å- Û̂Å-ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-‚ïh-hGôÅ-hôm-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚ôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü ym-HÛÅ-PÅ-GZº-Gmôm-zÁÝ-GŸôG-hP-ü M-¤Û¼-¤ï-¤hº-ºwPÅ-qü M-¤Û-zÅh-qºÛ-ZïÅ-q-hï-zÅ-ˆP-¤ïhü ¼P-EÛ¤-hÝ-ÅôÅ-h¾-hÝ-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-z®m-ºFÛh-‚Å-bï-hôm-¤ïh-P¾-¾Å-hP-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ˆÛ-h;º-ÇkÝG-ºhÛ-ºi-z-¥ôP-z-¾Åü ¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ-xÛm-bï-w-¤-Çtäm-¤Vïh-hP-¤Z¤-Çkôh-‚ïh-hGôÅ-lj¤-‚ãP-ü ŸïÅ-zÁhü

Pïh-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-@P-¾G-¿UGÅ-ˆÛÅ-OôG-TÛP-Åô-DÞP-hÝ-zTßG-mÅ-¹-z-GTÛG-XïÅ-ˆÛ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-ym-HÛ-¿UGÅ-fG-z=ô¾-bïü ¼P-

Page 98: 14 mount-everest-dingri

76

76 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

GÛ-z¸º-¹-fÞG-q¼-º‚ô¼-ºhÝG-qÅ-Ç+h-V-GP-‚ãP-zÁh-¤Û-VôG-TïÅ-M-¾Å-¤Z¤-hÝ-»ôP-Çeïü Gݼ-HÛ-ÇKô-ºI¤-ÇÀïzÅ-Ç+zÅ-hGº-¤-Çtïm-q-¤±¤Å-GTôh-ˆÛ-Vß-BïÅ-ºi-zºÛ-zŸÛm-¼Å-º±ô-zÅ-GhÝPÅ-zÅ-f¾-lݾ-HÛÅ-Ç~GÅ-ÁÛP-ü h¤¼-¤hPÅ-Tm-HÛ-¤DÞ¼-¤±ôÅ-G»Å-G»ôm-hï-»P-mG-môG-bà-Hã¼-bïü Pïh-¾-Eôh-¼P-z®ôm-DP-mÅ-GmÅ-Ç+zÅ-JÀôh-q-¤Û-ºhÝG-qÅ-hÛP-¼Û¼-¾ôG-Mã-»Ûm-zÁh-‚ãP-zü PÅ-Å-ºhÛ¼-m¤-¼ÛP-OæP-GÛÅ-ºEô¾-fzÅ-¤ïh-qÅ-»¼-¾ôG-¯ÛÅ-»ôh-q-È-TP-¾ïGÅü hï-¼ÛP-P-GZÛÅ-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-fÞG-hÝÅ-ºhÛ¼-PÅ-Åï¤Å-mP-GÛ-Ç+h-V-ŸÛG-zÁh-ˆÛ-»Ûmü ÇÀh-P¼-¼ï-z-‚Å-bï-ÇKÝG-m-Eïh-¼P-GÛ-¤Û-±ï-ÇeôP-¸h-¾Å-P-z®ôm-DP-mÅ-JÀôh-qºÛ-hÝÅ-ºV¼-HÛ-¤-¼ïhü ljÛP-z ï̄-zºÛ-w-¤-Çtäm-¤Vïh-hP-hGº-¤-Eïh-hP-hzP-¤ïh-ƒ¾-bï-º-Vh-ºÞ-fÞG-GÛ-GmÅ-ÇePÅ-ºhÛ-ºi¼-H¼-z-P-±ôºÛ-±ï-ÇSôm-HÛ-zÇ+ôÅ-qºÛ-¾Å-¼ïhü hï-zÅ-z¸º-¹-ŸÛG-z®¾-bï-¼P-GÛ-¤Û-±ïºÛ-ºIô-ÇePÅ-HÛÅ-ÁÛG TïÅ-zÁh-qÅü hˆãÅ-¼ÛP-ºiïm-‚ïh- Þ̧P-GÛ-ÇÛ̈m-¤-zÇkÝÅ-ÁÛP-¤ÛG-Vß-yâ¤-yâ¤-GbôP-zºÛ-PP-Pïh-¾-hôm-ŸÛG-¬-»P-ü PÞ-PG-GÛ-Gž-z¼-¤Û-dôGÅ-qºÛ-¤Þ¼-P-GZÛÅ-fÞG-qºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-¸hü

M-¾Å-ˆÛ-P-»¼-ºFÛh-Ç+zÅ-xÛ¼-z¿eÅ-GTÛG-ÇÀôG-qÅ-Çtïm-q-¤±¤Å-GTôh- Û̂Å-PÞ-PG-hP-ºƒï¾-zºÛ-Ç+Ý-G Þ̧GÅ-¾-zhG-GTïÅ-GmP-

Page 99: 14 mount-everest-dingri

77

Q-Vïm-hÝ-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ˆÛ-Fôh-¤Û-ÆôG-zBzÅ-qü 77

¼ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-Ç+h-Gž-qô-¤Ûm-q-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-XïÅ-mÅ-ºzôhühÝÅ-hï-mÅ-z Þ̧P-P-¾-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-¿e-¤Dm-GŸm-¤ïh-q¼-P-±ôºÛ-

±ôGÅ-VßP-GTÛG-q-»¼-ºƒôG-D-ºz¼-zÅôh-m¤Å-hzP-ºhÝÅ-ˆÛ-z¸º-¹-fÞG-ºyh-wïzÅ-Ç+zÅü G¸ÛGÅ-BôP-„À-¤ïh-GmP-GÛ-»ôhü

hï-ÇSôm-M¾-¯ï-DÞ¾-hÝ-M-h¤G-GÛ-Ç+h-Nå¼-zÅh-hï-z®ôm-ºWâG-‚Å-q-P-±ôºÛ-zTß-ÁôG-GÛ-zôh-h¤G-ÅÞ¤-VßP-hP-ÍÞ-Mm-GZÛÅ-hP-ü JÀïP-¤ô¾-ym-®¤-‚ãP-zºÛ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-ÍÞ-Mm-HÛÅ-h;º-P¾-z ô̧h-¤Û-fÞz-qÅü ¼P-ÁÛ-zMG-GÛ-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zÁh-‚ãP-ü GÝÅ-ˆÛÅ-¼P-ÁÛ-zMG-q-mÛ-È-TP-Çk¼-¤ºÛ-‚ïh-ÇePÅ-ÁÛG-»Ûmü M-h¤G-ŸÛG-GÛ-¤hÝm-mÅ-¤ï-¤hº-ºyôG-Çeï-M-¤Û-D-ÁÅ-Åôh-hP.ü ¼P-ZÛh-ˆP-hï-hP-¤Z¤-hÝ-ºVÛ-»Û-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-ˆP-ü GÝP-±ÛGÅ-¾-ºIô-Ç+zÅ-ÍÞ-Mm-G®P-qô¼-¤VôPÅ-mÅ-VßÅ-ºEï¼-zŸÛm-q-¤ÛG-GÛÅ-¤fôP-‚ãP-zü P-±ôÅ-fG-q-G»ÞGÅ-ˆP-¾G-qÅ-fG-q-±ß¼-ºzÞh-»ôP-ŸÛP-ü ¤f¼-Vß-fôm-źÛ-¶-D¼-Áô¼-bï-wÞP-qô-»P-¤-½‰ïhü

uÛ-¾ô- 1961 ¹- 11 qºÛ-mP-hï-ÇSôm-ÇKP-bôG-GÛ-ym-±ôºÛ-±ôGÅ-¤Û-Åï-¼ºÛ-lôz-lôz-EÛ-uP-¾Å-ż-JÀô-zÞ¼-fÞG-‚ãP-zü Åï¤Å-mP-hGº-vô-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-ŸÛP-ü Eïh-ºhÛ¼-WÛ-¿e¼-ÇÀïzÅ-Ť-ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-qÅüEÛ-uP-GÛÅ-Dô-¼P-zÇem-ÆâP-hP-„ÀP-h¤G-¾-xÛm-q-mÅ-M-h¤G-GÛ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü Zï-¾¤-z®ôm-q-mÅ-¾Å-¤Û¼-zNå¼-±ß¾-hP-ü ¤Û-¤P-

Page 100: 14 mount-everest-dingri

78

78 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

qôºÛ-hzÞÅ-h-hÝP-Q-Vïm-JÀôG-DP-ºôG-mÅ-Vß-ºzÞ¼-ºzÞ¼-fôm-HÛ-»ôhü TïÅ-zÁh-‚ãP-z-PÅ-Ç+h-V-XïÅ-¤-hïºÛ-hôm-¤-dôGÅ-ˆP-hï¼-Gô-Mã-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-»ôh-qºÛ-PôÅ-º²Ûm-‚Åü

XïÅ-ÅÞ-GTÛG-qÞ¼-fÞG-Ç+zÅ-DôP-GÛÅ-D-ÅP-Q-Vïm-JÀôG-DP-GÁ¤-mÅ-Vß-ºzÞ¼-ºzÞ¼-fôm-HÛ-ºhÝG-TïÅ-qºÛ-hôm-mÛü M-G¼-mÅ-h¤G-»ôP-GÛ-ºhÝG-TïÅ-qºÛ-hôm-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-hP-ü »P-ü G»Å-G»ôm-¾-¤ÛG-Zݾ-ŸÛG-‚Å-bï-ǨÛm-¤-G¸ïPÅ-®¤-PP-ü M-h;¼-mG-h¤G-ºFâG-¾PÅ-IzÅ-»ôh-q-hP-ü hïºÛ-Vïh-M-h¤G-GÛÅ-zôh-ˆÛ-»Þ¾-¤Û-n¤Å-ƒm-hÝ-z;ô¾-mÅ-wô-¤ô-Eh-¤ïhü ¾ô-zTô-zMh-mÅ-zŸÛ-zTß-z¼-HÛ-¤Û-n¤Å-¾-»Þ¾-h¤G-TïÅ-¤ÛP-zbGÅ-bï-¤ï-NôGÅ-hP-ü μÅ-¤hï¾ü ¸Å-zTÅ-h¤G-ż-zB¾-Mã-hP-ü h¤G-Å-mÅ-h¤G-¤Û-©Å-¤-hP-ÁÛ-zºÛ-¼ô-hzô¼-hGôÅ-qºÛ-¾Å-ºGm-¿UÛ-qô-vh-»ôhü »Þ¾-h¤G-±ô-h¤G-ż-h¤G-¤DôºÛ-»ô-VÅ-n¤Å-hzô¼-ºiïm-Ç+zÅ-M-h¤G-GÛÅ-¤ï-¤hº-ºEï¼-mÅ-ºhïh-TÛP-ü ¤Û-Åï¼-HÛ-fï¼-Gï-n¤Å-ˆP-z®m-Áïh-ˆÛÅ-FÛh-±ß¾-ÅôGÅ-zÁhü

Page 101: 14 mount-everest-dingri

79

G®P-DÞ¾-HÛ-IGÅ-Tm-z®ôm-DP-GÅÞ¤-ºIÛ¤Å-qü 79

iâG-qü

G®P-DÞ¾-HÛ-IGÅ-Tm-z®ôm-DP-GÅÞ¤-ºIÛ¤Å-qü

(1962-1965)

¾ô-hï¼-M-h;¼-mG-GZÛÅ-h¤G-ºFâG-¾PÅ-Zï-zÅ-M-¤ÛÅ-z®ôm-q-n¤Å-Åô-ÅôºÛ-¤Pº-Çkï-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-hP.ü ¤Pº-¼ÛÅü M¾-¯ïü ¿Ë-Åü¿Ëô-Dü Vz-¤hôü mG-Vß-zTÅ-z®ôm-DP-Åô-Åô¼-¯ÛÅ-vh-TÛP-ü M-¾Å-±ôÅ-z®ôm-q-±ô¼-mP-¤ô¾-±ß¾-hÝ-Å-DÞ¾-Åô-Åô¼-º‚ô¼-XïÅ-EÛ¤-hÝ-¾ôG-Mã-»ôP-¼ï-zXôhü ym-ÅôGÅ-GŸÛÅ-¯ï¼-FÛh-hï-z;¼-DP-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-zTßG-TÛP-ü z;¼-DP-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-¤Û-iâG-zM-®¤-»ôhü Ç+zÅ-hï¼-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-Å-DÞ¾-GTÛG-qÞ¼-z®ôm-q-ºWâG-»Þ¾-Z-¼Û-hP-ü z;¼-DP-üÇo¼-fP-ü Íï-¤-ÇKP-zTÅ-IGÅ-Vï-z-z®ôm-DP-zŸÛ-¼ï¼-h¤º-¤f¼-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-DÞ¾-HÛ-z®ôm-q-zM-yG-zL¾-z-»ôhü

Page 102: 14 mount-everest-dingri

80

80 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

z;¼-DP-hÝ-¤fôP-zºÛ-Gż-ÁôG-TÛG-bà-M-G¼-HÛÅ-M-mG-¾-GmÅ-GŸÛ-zhÝm-(Å-DÞ¾-DG-zhÝm-bï-¿Ë-Å-hP-ü GŸÛÅ-¯ïü ¤Pº-¼ÛÅü M¾-¯ïü ¿Ëô-Dü mG-Vßü Vz-¤hô-zTÅü)mÅ-xÛ¼-ºfïm-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-ºDôh-q-¤fôP-zÅü GmÅ-ÇePÅ-¾-GŸÛGÅ-m-¥ã¼-z¼-¼P-z®m-fôz-q-ºhÝG-lj¤ü

uÛ-¾ô- 1962 ¾ô¼-ÇezÅ-¤-¾ïGÅ-q¼-P-±ôÅ-¼ï-zTô¾-Vï-zºÛ-M-G¼-h¤G-bà-w¤-ZïÅ-‚ãP-ŸÛP-ü P-±ô-JÀôh-MãºÛ-JÀïP-xôGÅ- Û̂-GŸÛ-»P-ºW¤ü hGÝm-hÝÅ-z®ôm-q¼-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-vôh-Ç+zÅ-ŸÐ-¾Þ-zÞ-Çeôm-¼Ûm-qô-Vï-hP-üÁï¾-;¼-JÀÛP-D-væ¾-Ç+Ý-GZÛÅ- Û̂Å-zôh-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-ºhÛ-w-vïºÞ-‚P-Vßz-Åï¤Å-hqº-hP-¤-ƒG-ÆÛm-¤ô-GZÛÅ-mÅ-‚ãP-±ß¾-zÁh-ˆP.ü M-¾Å- Û̂Å-zôh-qºÛ-zÁh-±ß¾-hï-mô¼-ºFâ¾-»Ûm-q-hP-ü ¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-fôG-¤¼-M-mG-bà-vïºÞ-¾Å-‚ãP-z-zôh-hÝ-G-¾ï¼-h¼-z-ŸÛG-¼ïhü TïÅ-Dô-q-±ôºÛ-zÁh-±ß¾-zhïm-q-»Ûm-qºÛ-DÞPÅ-Bï¾-JÀôG-z½‰m-zÇem-q-ÅôGÅ-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü DôP-n¤-GZÛÅ-¾-z®ôm-q-h¤PÅ- Û̂-ż-iÛ-¯h-hP-lÝP-lïG-iG-qô-zbP.ü

¾ô-GTÛG-XïÅ- 1963 ¾ô¼-P-±ô-z®ôm-q-zM-hP-zhÝm-Tß-®¤-z;¼-DP-z®ôm-DP-mÅ-GŸÛÅ- ï̄ºÛ-z®ôm-DP-ÍP-hP-qô-Z-¼Û-wG-IôP-ŸÛP-¼¼-zbP.ŸÛP-ü hï¼-ÇSôm-mÅ-º‚ô¼-zºÛ-z®ôm-q-IPÅ-zMh-Tß-®¤-ºhÝGP-±ô-z;¼-DP-z®ôm-DP-mÅ-»ôP-z-n¤Å-±¾-ŸÛP-ºhïzÅ-¾Å-qºÛ-DôPÅ-ÅÞ-¾Å-zÇ+ôÅ-zMz-Çeïü GŸÛÅ-¯ï¼-»ôh-qºÛ-z®ôm-q¼-P¾-¾Å-zÇ+ݾ-

Page 103: 14 mount-everest-dingri

81

G®P-DÞ¾-HÛ-IGÅ-Tm-z®ôm-DP-GÅÞ¤-ºIÛ¤Å-qü 81

»Þ¾-Ço¼-fP-ŸÛP-¼-hP-ü Íï-¤-ÇKP-ŸÛP-¼-GZÛÅ-ºƒâ-¼ÛGÅ-ºhïzÅ-źÛ-GŸÛ-dïm-¼ïhü Z-¼Û¼-G¸º-ºDô¼-¼ï¼-º±ô-zºÛ-Bôm-zXôh-ˆÛ-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-¼ï-º±ôGÅ-hGôÅ-qºÛ-fôG-¾Å-;¼-mô¼-ºFâ¾-‚ãP-¤Ûmü D-mÅ-h=ôG-Gb¤-zÁh-¤Ûm-fh-zdG-hrh-‚ïh-TÛP-ü z®ôm-q-¼ï-¼ï¼-»ÛG-Oô¤-¼ï-z¸ôÅ-qºÛ-mP-hÝÅ-Ç+zÅ-Åô-Åô¼-zŤ-„Àô-TÛ-ŸÛG-ºDô¼-z-hP-ü Ç+h-V-GP-zÁh-n¤Å-»ÛG-fôG-bà-ƒÛÅ-bï-»¼-vôh-hGôÅü

¾ô-GTÛG-mP-¹-z-GÅÞ¤-¼ï-zŤ-„ÀôºÛ-ÇÀôz-GÅô-ŸïÅ-hGÝm-hÝÅ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-vh-hï-¤WâG-zÇkô¤Å-±ôGÅ-Vïm-¾-zŤ-„Àô-hG-zÁï¼-Vïhü z®ôm-q-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-Bôm-GP-Áô¼-¤Ûm-Gž-zÁh-‚ïh-hGôÅü Zïm-hï-mÛ-Ç+h-V-Áôh-f¾-Hã¼-q-hP-ü ¾Å-G»ô¾-z-n¤Å-¾-h¤PÅ-ˆÛ-ż-FÛ¤Å-Vh-¼ÛP-hÝ-GbôP-z-¤-¸hü D-ÁÅ-¾-ÆôG-fôG-ZïÅ-q-»P-GbôP-ü

Z-¼Û-ŸÛP-¼¼-hÛP-¼Û-±ôÅ-¿S-VôÅ-z¸P-fÞG-‚ãP-ü P-GZÛÅ-wm-±ßm-uÛ-ÇKï¼-HÛ-BÛh-ÇkÝG-JÀïP-ÇÀôP-‚ïh-qºÛ-mP-ü ¼P-Åô-ÅôºÛ-h-zÇ+ôÅ-¾Å-hzP-¾-ºDP-¼-hP-zTÅ-¤±¤Å-ÁÛG-DôP-¼P-z®ôm-hÝ-º±ßh-Ç+ô¼-GÅÞPÅü >ÀôG-q-qô-¾GÅü Gmh-hôm-hï-mÛ-¾ô-zŸÛºÛ-GôP-Çeï-¾ï-±m-zŸÛ-q¼-xÛ¼-zÁÛG-GmP-¼ôGÅü uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¹- 3 ±ïÅ- 14ZÛm-DôP-¾-±ôÅ-ÇKô-mÅ-D-‚P-hÝ-T-hP-hÛP-¼Û-h¤G-ÇK¼-HÛ-¼Þ-hqôm-¾-vôh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-»Û-Gï-ŸÛG-º‚ô¼-zü »Û-Gï-ºEï¼-mÅ-Vß-±ôh-GÅÞ¤-®¤-

Page 104: 14 mount-everest-dingri

82

82 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

HÛ-Å-V¼-º‚ô¼-Ç+zÅü M-h¤G-GÛÅ-z¸ÞP-mÅ-¾ÞÅ-ÇSôG-zÁï¼-‚Å-qÅ-»Û-Gï-fôm-q-hïºÛ-mP-T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-n¤Å-¼Þz-¼Þz-z¸ôÅ-mÅ-¤±ôm-V-¤Z¤-ºEï¼-fôG-¶-¾ÞP-xôGÅ-¾-xÛ¼-ºfïm-‚ïh-hGôÅü ŸïÅ-ºDôh-q-GŸÛ-mÅ-ÁïÅü Zïm-ºGm-Vï-zºÛ-»Û-Gï-hï-ºi-ŸÛG-DôP-GÛ-¾ÞÅ-fôG-mÅ-fôm-qÅ-hï-mÅ-z¸ÞP-DôP-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-º±ßhü DôP-hP-P-±ôÅ-±ôh-hqG-‚Å-q¼-GÅP-zºÛ-z;º-»ÛG-hï-¼P-GŸÝP-P¤ü ÆÛh-¸Þ¼->Àâ-DP-q-±ï-hzP-¼z-zdm-hP-¯ÛÅ-hqôm-ŸÐ-ÇKz-qÅ-hzÞ-FÛh-qºÛ-z;º-„Àôm-Ç~äGÅ-GP-¼ÞP-ŸÛG-GÛ-GÅP-»ÛG-¤Ûm-m¤-lj¤-q-hP-ü z;º-»ÛG-hï-mÛ-zôh-h¤G-n¤Å-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-mÅ-ZÛm-GZÛÅ-XïÅ-º‚ô¼-»ôh-qÅ-xÛÅ-iG-ÅôP-ŸïÅ-DôP-»P-ºHôh-q-iG-qô-‚ïhü

uÛ-¾ô- 1965 ¹- 3 q¼-GÝÅ-±ô-z®ôm-q-zTß-iâG-z;¼-DP-hÝ-zbP-Çeï-z;¼-DP-mÅ-GÝÅ-±ô-¾Å-¤Û¼-zNå¼-z-hP.ü Á¼-DÞ¤-qô-xôGÅ-mÅ-º²Ûm-z Þ̧P-‚Å-qºÛ-Iô-¤ô-z-¤Û-zhÝm-zTÅ-z;¼-DP-hÝ-zÇ+ôPÅ-bï-GÝÅ-¤-GbôGÅ-GŸm-n¤Å-JÀôh-Iô¾-zbP-ü GÝÅ-GTÛG-qÞ-JÀôh-ºIô¾-¤-zbP-zºÛ-Mã-¤±m-G®ô-zô-mÛ-D-ÁÅ- Û̂Å-GÝÅ-fôG-¤¼-º²Ûm-z Þ̧P-‚ïh-hÝÅühqP-dGÅ-zÇem-Mã-¤ïh-ˆP-M-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-zÅh-q-hP-ü h-hÝP-mG-ZïÅ-GŸm-hÝ-¤-»ôh-TïÅ-zÁhü ºôm-ˆP-GÝÅ-mÅ-mG-ZïÅ-¤ïh-±ß¾-ZG-AP-zXôh-q-¾-M-¤ÛÅ-GÝÅ-q¼-Áôh-¤-mÝÅ-qºÛ-mG-ZïÅ-ÁÛG-»ôh-q¼-lj¤-Çeï-

Page 105: 14 mount-everest-dingri

83

G®P-DÞ¾-HÛ-IGÅ-Tm-z®ôm-DP-GÅÞ¤-ºIÛ¤Å-qü 83

ÁÛm-bà-hôGÅ-q-¸-zºÛ-GmÅ-ÅÞ-Hã¼üym-¾Å-¤Û¼-zNå¼-zÅ-Çkôh-»Þ¾-z;¼-DP-z®ôm-DP-hP-ZÛm-

hÝÅ-ºIô-zBôh-¼P-hzP-»ôh-qÅü ZÛm-ŸÛG-z=-ÁÛÅ-¿Ëàm-qô-hGôm-hÝ-¤Vôh-¤W¾-¾-fïPÅ-GTÛG-zBôhü hGôm-HÛ-M¾-ÇKôºÛ-fôh-h¼-h¤¼-z®ßGÅ-»ôh-q-hP-ü M¾-ÇKô-º²â¾-®¤-HÛ-fP-Vïm-¤ô¼-yïh-h¼-h¤¼-qôºÛ-fôG-¾ôG-uôh-q-qa-Vïm-HÛ-ºIï¤Å-Çeômü ŸïÅ-q-ŸÛG-ƒÛÅ-q-hP-üyïh-h¼-h¤¼-qôºÛ-G»Å-G»ôm-HÛ-MP-IGÅ-mÅ-qa-Vïm-¾ôG-uôh-qÅ-¤ïÅ-M¾-¾-Mz-Gbôh-‚Å-±ß¾-hÝ-¤-ŸÛG-Áôh-TÛP-ü Zï-ºDô¼-M-¾Å-ºGº-f-¤G-ºfïm-zŸÛm-w¼-±ß¼-ºIô-z-hP-ü IÔ-q-ºGº-OôG-®ïºÛ-¤hÝm-zÇkh-hï-&qa-Vïm-¼Ûm-qô-VïºÛ-mG-ZïÅ-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-zIPÅ-qºÛ-hP-qô¼ü M-G¼-ÆÛh-º²Ûm-mï-¼ôºÛ-q¼-»ôh-qºÛ-±GÅ-q¼-ŸÛG-¾| bØ-¾ºÛ-¼Þ-±ôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-M-G¼-HÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-qa-Vïm-¼Þ-±ôGÅ-¾-zbP-zºÛ-hqP-dGÅ-»Ûm-±ß¾-hP-ü GZÛÅ-qü Ç+Ý-±h-Fâ-GP-»ôh-qºÛ-Oô¾-¤ºÛ-Ç+Ý-GTÛG-zÇem-mÅ- F-ºƒâG-Oô¾-¤-GÅÞP-‚ôm-ÅôGÅ-@Ý-ºyôG-‚Å-qü GÅÞ¤-qü ‡¤-;¼-HÛ-¾ÞGÅ-q¼-ŸÛG-¾-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-½‰ÛP-q-¼ô-¾PÅ- zMG-MãºÛ-Pm-Åï¤Å-»ôh-qü zŸÛ-qü »ÛG-ºƒâ-FÛ-zhÝm-HÛ-»ÛG-V-GTÛG-zÇem-mÅ-bP-¾-Pô-Lô¾-

Page 106: 14 mount-everest-dingri

84

84 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

‚Å-±ß¾ü ¿S-qü ̧ Å-¾ïGÅ-ZïÅ-GZÛÅ-z=¤Å-q-mÅ-¾ïGÅ-q-n¤Å-qa-Vïm- HÛ-¸Å-hP-ü ̧ Å-¼Þ¾-n¤Å-¤Û-¤P-GÛÅ-z¸º-hGôÅ-±ß¾-zTÅü &;Ým-G¸ÛGÅ-qa-Vïm-¼Ûm-qô-Vï¼-Eôm-Bôm-zXôh-ºIï¤Å-Çeôm-DG-zTß-GTÛG-®¤-zOÛGÅ-ÁÛP-ü ºIï¤Å-Çeôm-HÛ-¤WâG-¤f¼-hïz-«åG-zŸG-mÅ-f-¤G-Qâz-zŸÛm-qºÛ-IÔ-q-GÅÞ¤-HÛÅ-P-¾-¤ÛP-dGÅ-ºGôh-hGôÅ-zÁhü PÅ-hï-¼ÛP-¤Vôh-¤W¾-»ôP-Ÿô¼-z¿eÅ-q-¾Åü P-mÛ-Vz-ÆÛh-fh-È-Gô-hôm-dôGÅ-¿km-qºÛ-¤Û-ŸÛG-¤Ûm-ŸïÅ-¤ÛP-dGÅ-¤-z;ôh-q¼-Mz-zÁÛGÅ-Gô¤-q-GÅÞ¤-zMz-Çeïü &;Ým-G¸ÛGÅ-qa-Vïm-¼Ûm-qô-Vï-Ç+Ý-yïP-¼Û¤-‚ôm-HÛ-GhÝP-dïm-¤Vôh-DP-¾-¤hÝm-Gbh-hïü ¾G-f¾-¤ô-¢¼-mÅ-DôP-GÛ-Ç+Ý-¾-Zï-Ÿô-y-¤ô-®¤-¤-ºGôÅ-q¼ü zhG-ÅôGÅ-zôh-ºzPÅ-n¤Å-ˆÛ-¤Gôm-hÝ-Ç+Ý-±ï-zdm-TÛP-zŸïh-hGôPÅ-¿Ëàm-HÛÅ-ºIâz-qºÛ-Çô̈m-¾¤-iG-bà-zbôm-mÅ-hGôm-qºÛ-M¾-ÇKô-mÅ-fômü

ZÛm-ŸÛG-z;¼-DP-GÛ-z®ôm-q-hP-¾Å-¤Û-Eôm-¿S-zM-®¤-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-zÇ+ôPÅ-mÅ-ÇkÛPÅ-VºÛ-fôG-M-¾Å-zhÝm-®¤-hP-h Û̂¾-hÝ-zôh- Û̂-IôP-GÅïz-qºÛ-©ô-zô-ŸÛG-ºhÝG-qü M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-©ô-zô-hï-z¾-»Þ¾-mÅ-±ß¼-¾ôG-»ôP-qÅ-z¾-»Þ¾-HÛ-zôh-¤ÛºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-Pô-vôh-‚ïh- Û̂-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-q-hP-ü ©ô-zôÅ-»¼-¾PÅ-bï-D¤Å-Ç+h-ˆÛ-GhPÅ-ºiïÅ-qºÛ-hzÞÅ-Ç+h-

Page 107: 14 mount-everest-dingri

85

G®P-DÞ¾-HÛ-IGÅ-Tm-z®ôm-DP-GÅÞ¤-ºIÛ¤Å-qü 85

fôG-z¾-»Þ¾-hÝ-»Þ¾-H¼-zºÛ-zôh-q-hÝ-¤-¿eôGÅ-¼Ûh-hP-ü ±-zºÛ-mh-Û̂Å-¤m¼-»P-Ǩm-zTôÅ-¤ïh-q¼-ZÛm-¼ï-IPÅ-±h-PïÅ-Tm-ÁÛ-z-hP-ü hP-qô-Á¼-DÞ¤-zÞ¼-zôh-¤Û-»Þ¾-H¼-z-EÛ¤-±P-zMh-zM-»ôh-ˆP-h-V-TßP-¸h-¾Å-¿ËG-¤ïh-TÛP-ü P-»P-h;º-P¾-¯-z-mÅ-z¸ôh-¤-fÞz-q¼-±ß¼-¾ôG-q-»Ûmü Eïh-±ô-»P-w¼-ºIô-¯ÛÅ-¤-‚ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü

ÅP-ZÛm-P-¼P-ÁÛP-GÁôG-q¼-zbP-‚ãP-z-zŤ-»Þ¾-¾Å-ºhÅ-q-ŸÛG-¾-hÛP-¼Û-¤VôG-BÛh-q-hPôÅ-Iâz-MG-¾ôh-ÁÛP-GÁôG-q¼-ÇÀïzÅ-‚ãP-ü PºÛ-Åï¤Å-mP-DôP-z®ôm-hÝ-º±ßh-lj¤-»Ûh-¾-¤ïhü P-GZÛÅ-wm-±ßm-º±¤Å-ºiÛ-‚Å-ÁÛP-DôP-GÛÅ-Eïh-¼P-z¸ÞP-XïÅ-P-±ôºÛ-¾ÞP-q¼-GmÅ-±ß¾-hÝ-¤-¿ËGÅ-ÅôPü ŸïÅ-hP-¤Þ-¤fÞh-zÁh-hômü Í-¤hô-¤Gô-FÅ-Áï¾-h;¼-HÛ-¤±ôm-V-ÆâP-¤Dm-¼P-h¤G-n¤Å-z¸ÞP-z-ÁïÅ-XïÅüÅ-ÆÛz-®¤-¾-Áï¾-h;¼-Ÿô¾-HÛ-EÛ¤-hÝ-±ôP-¸ôG-z¾-hô-hP-¤hïºÞ-zTÅ-Çkïz-ÇtäP-zMz-Çeïü Å-Çoݤ-zÁôÅ-ÁÛP-¤ï-Çt¼-mÅ-Dô-¼P-¿eG-ÇKô-mÅ-ƒôÅüGP-¤±¤Å-mÅ-¤hïºÞ-¤ïÅ-º±ÛGÅ-qºÛ-O-¿kÛ-¼Û-¼Û-IGÅ-ÁÛP-ü M-h¤G-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-hï-xôGÅ-MãGÅ-bï-DP-q-¤fº-zÇ+ô¼ü d-iï¾-n¤Å-ºiôGÅ-bï-¤fÞ¼-fG-zTh-hï-Å-xôGÅ-GP-ż-ƒôÅ-q-¤ï-ºôh-¾Å-;Ým-HÛÅ-Gž-z¼-¤fôP-ü hï-XïÅ-¤Gô-F- Û̄z-¼Û-‚P-zMãh-GmÅ-Gż-GmÅ-ÇKô¼-ÇÀïzÅ-Ç+zÅ-»Þ¾-‚ô¾-ºIô-zŸÛm-qºÛ-Í-¾G-GÛ-GTßP-qô-hôm-Iâz-hP-ü ¼Û¤-

Page 108: 14 mount-everest-dingri

86

86 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

qÅ-D¤Å-q-Ç+¾-z¸P-ÅôGÅ-¤Û-zhÝm-®¤-fÞGDôP-±ô¼-¤±ôm-V-»ôh-qÅ-hqÞP-Áïh- Û̂Å-»¼-¾¤-‚P-Mãh-¤Û-Åï¼-

mÅ-ºyôG-zTô¤-‚Å-bï-¤Û-¤P-GÛ-Åï¤Å-¾-m-±-z ô̧-zŸÛmü ºyP-ÇKô-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-Å-V¼-ÇÀïzÅ-Ç+zÅ-ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-ºIô-zºÛ-Áï¾-h;¼-μôP-GÛ-Gô-¤±ôm-ÆâP-¤Û-VôÅ-ºwï¾-fÞG-Çeïü DôP-±ô-¤Z¤-hÝ-ºƒôP-q-xôGÅ-¾-xÛmü

¤G¼-mG-»ï-ÁïÅ-z¸P-qô-ºƒôP-q-¾ïGÅ-¯ï-¼Þ-Çkôh-q¼-¤Û-Åï¼-HÛÅ-¤Gô-FºÛ-hqÞP-GÛÅ-Z¤-fG-¤Û-Åï¼-mÅ-ºyôG-zTô¤-‚Å-±ß¾-¾m-zB¾-z-hP-ü ¤G¼-mG-»ï-ÁïÅ-z¸P-qô-hP-¤Gô-F-GZÛÅ-ÇSôm-mÅ-ºDôm-º²Ûm-ŸÛG-ˆP-»ôh-±ôhü GP-¿e¼-¤G¼-mG-»ï-ÁïÅ-z¸P-qôÅ-hqÞP-FÛh-hï-¤Gô-FºÛ-hqÞP-¯h-GTôh-ˆÛm-»ôP-Ç+zÅ-¾¤-hÝ-¤hïºÞ-ŸÛG-½‰ïh-qü »×-h-ºhÛ-¤Gô-F-GÅôh-‚ïh-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zOæGÅ-bï-¤Þ-¤fÞh-»ôP-mÅ-¤Gô-FºÛ-hqÞP-ºzº-q-Gm¤-¿Ë-GŸÝP-AP-hÝh-±P-hÝ-zÇkh-»ôh-qü m¤-¾PÅ-Ç+zÅ-Gm¤-¿Ë-GŸÝP-AP-GÛ-Mz-¼Û-VßP-PÞºÛ-¼Û-¯ï-mÅ-¤Û-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-»Þ¾-¤Û-n¤Å-ƒôÅ-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-ºzôh-qü ¤Gô-FÅ-fôÅ-¤-fG »×-h-¤G¼-mG-»ï-ÁïÅ-z¸P-qôÅ-P-ºzôh-ˆÛ-ºhÝG-q-P-GZÛÅ-GbàG-hGôÅ-ˆÛ-¼ïhüTïÅ-DP-fôG-zBôh-mÅ-¤G¼-mG-»ï-ÁïÅ-z¸P-qô¼-¤ï-¤hº-ÇkÛG-Ç+zÅü¤G¼-mG-»ï-ÁïÅ-z¸P-qôÅ-hï-¤-fG-¤ï-¤hº-ºwPÅ-mÅ-¤Gô-FºÛ-hs¾-qºÛ-hˆÛ¾-¾-wôG-Çeï-ºhÅü

Page 109: 14 mount-everest-dingri

87

G®P-DÞ¾-HÛ-IGÅ-Tm-z®ôm-DP-GÅÞ¤-ºIÛ¤Å-qü 87

wm-±ßm-ºfz-ºFâG-‚Å-ˆP-¤Gô-FºÛ-xôGÅ-mÅ-¤-zÇeïm-q¼-±P-¤Å-¤Gô-zbGÅü ºôm-ˆP-¤G¼-mG-»ï-ÁïÅ-z¸P-qôºÛ-ÁôG-GÛÅ-ljÛP-Xï-Çtä-®¤-¤ïh-q¼ü Í-¾G-GÛ-GTßP-hôm-Iâz-ÅôGÅ-¤Û-zhÝm-®¤-fG-qÅ-zÇk¤Å-mÅ-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-h¤¼-GÅôh-zbP-z-hP-ü ¤G¼-mG-»ï-ÁïÅ-z¸P-qô-hP-hï-ÇSôm-Pô-ÁïÅ-qºÛ-D¤Å-q-Ç+¾-z¸P-hP-ü hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-hqÞP-¾-±ôh-zG¤-¤-fÞz-q¼-ºE¤-ÇKô-VôÅ-ºwï¾-GZÛÅ-JÀôh-q-¼ïhüTïÅ-zÁh-‚ãP-zÅü P-¼P-GÛ-¤ÛG-¤hÝm-hÝ-¤Gô-F-hP-hôm-Iâz-ˆÛ-‚h-zŸÛm-¿ËP-Pï¼-ºDô¼-mÅü hI-hqÞP-ÇeôzÅ-qô-Vï-M-h¤¼-ºhÛ-q-¤hÝm-hÝ-ÇoP-¤ïh-zŸG-mÅ-mP-DÞ¾-FÛ¤Å-¤ïh-¾ÞGÅ-¤ïh-hï-¿e-zÞ-hqï-¼ïhü TïÅ-PG-mÅ-hzP-¤ïh-f¾ü h-hÝP-DôP-GÛÅ-Eïh-z¸ÞP-z-mÅ-Eïh-±ôºÛ-EÛ¤-¾-ÇKô-fï¾-zMz-TÛP-ü mP-¤Û-±P-¤-P-hGݺÛ-¾ô-¤WâG-¾¤-z¸ô¼-zÇ+ݾ-Ç+zÅ-z¾-»Þ¾-¾-ƒôÅ-mÅ-hïP-Ç+zÅ-hÛP-¼Û¼-GTÛG-ˆP-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü

ZÛm-ÁÅ-mÅ-ym-±ô-¤Û-zMh-Íï-¤-ÇKP-ŸÛP-¼¼-FÛh-‚ãP-ü ŸÛP-¼-hï-hP-qô-M-h¤G-GÛÅ-Gż-z®ßGÅ-‚Å-q-hP-ü ym-±ô-ŸÛP-¼¼-º‚ô¼-Ç+zÅ-z®ôm-qÅ-DïPÅ-mÅ-Çkôh-»Þ¾-¤ïh-Aïm-hï-mÅ-¤ï-¾ï-GZÛÅ-®¤-z¼-HÛ-fôG-Å-zTô-zMh-®¤-»ôh-qºÛ-Ghôh-¤ºÛ-IôG-¼ôP-ŸÛG-zMãhü IôG-¼ôP-hïºÛ-GŸôGÅ-G»Å-G»ôm-ƒâÅ-qºÛ-Å-ºôG-GÛ-DP-q-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-GÛ-mP-¾Å-¤Û-zŸÛ-zTß-®¤-hP-¤Z¤-hÝ-zŸG-‚ãP-ü Å-ºôG-DP-q-hï-hG-¾-¤ÛG-

Page 110: 14 mount-everest-dingri

88

88 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

Zݾ-Ç+zÅ-Eôm-DP-q-zTß-iâG-hP-ü hïºÛ-mP-mÅ-ºGº-ŸÛG-¾-d-iï¾-ºhôGÅ-Å-hP-ºGº-ÁÅ- Û̂-Å-¾-z@ôÅ-zMz-mÅ-zP-FÛ-hP-ü @Ýz-ÇeïGÅüZ¾-FÛü fz-ÅôGÅ-mP-VÅ-z¸ôÅ-ºhÝG

z®ôm-q-n¤Å-ŸÛP-¾Å-ºhïzÅ-zÇkÝ-‚ïh-hGôÅ-qÅ-ÅP-ZÛm-ŸÛP-¼¼-¾Å-;¼-ºIô-Ç+zÅ-¾¤-z¼-wG-q-º±ô-zŸÛm-qºÛ-z®ôm-q-½‰ÛP-q-ŸÛG-fÞG-qü DôP-¾-»-¤±m-Vï-zºÛ-Å-ºôG-DP-qºÛ-mP-zÇkh-»ôh-Ç+ô¼-zÁh-qÅü DôP-GÛÅ-Å-ºôG-DP-q-hï-hG-h¤G-ºFâG-Ç+zÅ-h¤G-hqôm-Zïm-G»ô¾-Vïh-z¸ôÅ-q-¼ïhü TïÅ-GÅÞPÅü

uÛ-¾ô- 1965 zôh-¹- 5 ±ïÅ- 22 ZÛm-hÛP-¼Û-z-hPôÅ-Iâz-Íï-¤-ÇKP-z®ôm-DP-mÅ-ƒôÅ-q-hP-ü Áï¾-h;¼-z-±ôP-q-TßP-¾GÅ-Û̂Å-¾Å-ż-zL¾-¤Û-VôG-qºÛ-Å-fÛG-GÛ-zTh-¤±¤Å-¤-zL¾-»P-ü M-h¤G-ÆâP-‚-zÅ-ljh-ºhôGÅ- Û̂Å-¤ï-¤hº-ºwPÅ-bï-@P-q-©Å-q-¤-¸hüDôP-¾-Å-fÛG-zL¾-zºÛ-ZïÅ-q-z®ßGÅ-q-hP-ü ŸÛP-¼ºÛ-Zï-ºDô¼-Iâ-Å-hP.ü ;ô-Åü ¤Û-Åï¼-zTÅ-¾-hPôÅ-Iâz-ˆÛ-GhôP-h‚ÛzÅ-hP-ü G¸ÞGÅ-±h-ÅôGÅ-¾ô-MãÅ-V-±P-Ez-zOGÅ-‚Å-bï-hPôÅ-Iâz-ÅÞÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚ïh-fÞz-mü G¸ÛGÅ-GÅô¾-hP-zÇeôh-zÇSGÅ-»ôh-±ß¾-zl-Ez-Çtï¾ü

GôP-Gž-GmÅ-±ß¾-hï-GZÛÅ- Û̂Å-P-±ô-¤Û-¼ï- Þ̧P-zBôh-¤Û-VôG-q¼-±ôGÅ-DG-¤Z¤-zBôh-‚ïh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-Gż-hÝ-z¸ôÅü

Page 111: 14 mount-everest-dingri

89

G®P-DÞ¾-HÛ-IGÅ-Tm-z®ôm-DP-GÅÞ¤-ºIÛ¤Å-qü 89

¤Û-¼ÛP-zºÛ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-P-±ô-¾Å-¤Û-zŸÛ-zTß-¿ËG-®¤-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-ŸÛG-zÇ+ôPÅ-bïü M-¾Å-„Àô-Áôh-ˆÛÅ-Dô-qÅ-ºGô-ºFÛh-hï-ym-ÅôGÅ-¤Û-zMh-¾-h¤ÛGÅ-z®ßGÅ-ˆÛÅ-¯ï-GhôP-hGôm-q-Çeô¼-z¼-ºIô-hGôÅ-zXôhü ym-HÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-ÇkÛG-±ôGÅ-Vï-zºÛ->À->ÀôºÛ-Pm-uôh-¾-ŸÝGÅ-Mã-ÁÛm-bà-º±ï¼-ŸÛP-ü M-h¤¼-hP-GZÛÅ-ÅÞ-¤ïh-qºÛ-„Àô-Áôh-Dô-q-»ôP-Mã¼-zdïm-w¼-xÛm-m-G»ô¾-fzÅ-Gbm-mÅ-¤ïh-qÅü ym-HÛÅ-M-¾Å-ÁÛG-¾-hGôPÅ-q-ŸÝ-Æô¾-ÇÀôz-¼ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-zXôh-hï-G¸ÞGÅ-qô-zhï-zô-¤ïh-±ß¾-HÛÅ-hGôPÅ-q-ŸÝÅ-ˆP-hôm-ǨÛm-¤-‚ãP.ü TÛ-iG-GÛ-zŤ-„Àô-GbôP-Ç+zÅ-ºIô-¼ôGÅ-±ôÅ-¤Z¤-hÝ-»ôP-»P-hGôm-q-Çeô¼-¤Û-hGôÅ-qºÛ-fzÅ-‚Å-VôG-TïÅ-zÁh-qÅ-xÛmü ̄ ï-GhôP-hÝ-º‚ô¼-Ç+zÅ-DP-Vïm-ºGºÛ-fôG-¾Å-hGôm-HÛ-zdïm-dïm-q-w¾-Vï¼-Çeô¼-zÁÛG-¸Ûm-ºhÝG

hï-DÞ¾-HÛ-¤Û-¤P-n¤Å-¾-ZïÅ-Tm-¼ÛGÅ-¾-ºƒï¾-z-‚ïh-¤Û-VôG-qºÛ-iÛ¾-zOGÅ-ºWÛGÅ-Ç+ݾ-¾m-¤P-‚Å-ˆP-ü ym-±ô-¼P-¼ÛGÅ-ˆÛ-zhï-ÇkÝG-Vïh-Z¤-Ÿm-hÝ-Hã¼-q-Ÿï-GTÛG-»Ûm-qÅ-¤Pôm-Gž-hôh-qôÅ-W-VP-ÅôGÅ-Çoï-¾ïm-GP-fÞz-GmP-ŸÛP-ü hï-mÅ-Íï-¤-ÇKP-GÛ-zM-ÁôG-bà-xÛ¼-¾ôG-q-hP.ü P-±ô-¤Û-fP-zTß-¸Þ¼-hÝ-h‚ï-Çeï-Å-V-GŸm-hÝ-ŸÛP-¼-Gż-q-ŸÛG-º²âGÅ-Cæm-‚ïh-q¼-ºIô-hGôÅ-±ß¾-zÁhü

Page 112: 14 mount-everest-dingri

90

90 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zhÝm-qü

hzÞÅ-mÅ-Á¼-hÝ-FÛh-qü

(1965-6 1965-10)

¾ô-hïºÛ-zôh-¹- 5 ±ïÅ- 27 ZÛm-M-h¤¼-HÛ-hqôm-qô-Áº-Dô-=P-GÛÅ-ºGm-ºDÞ¼-zºÛ-P-±ô-¾Å-¤Û-iâG-Tß-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-mÅ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-mP-FÛh-Ç+zÅü d-Iâ-D¼-¾Å-¤Û-mô¼-zÞ-hôm-Iâz-ˆÛÅ-Å-DÞ¾-hï¼-DôP-GÛ-mP-¤Û-GbàG-q¼-ºIô-MãºÛ-hGôPÅ-q-ŸÝÅ-ˆP-ü Áº-Dô-=P-GÛÅ-hGôPÅ-q-¤-vhü

mô¼-hôm-Mãm-hÝ-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-TÛ-GÅÞP-z;º-Oæz-‚ïh-qºÛ-Èà¼-z¯ôm-Tm-ŸÛG-»Ûm-»P.ü EÛ¤-HÛ-ÇKô-ºI¤-ÇÀïzÅ-m-»P-mP-¤Û-Pô-fÞG-®¤-‚ïh-qºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-¤-vh-q¼-ym-¼P-È-¾Å-ÁÛP-ü mô¼-hôm-¾-Mãm-mÅ-Èà¼-z¯ôm-Vï-ŸÛP-bP-GÛ-G¸ÛGÅ-¤fôP-Vï-zºÛ-Eïh-¼P-EÛ¤-HÛ-ÇKô-ºI¤-º‚ô¼-»P-mP-¤Û-Pô-fÞG-®¤-‚ïh-¤-zTßG-q-»-¤±m-Vïü

Page 113: 14 mount-everest-dingri

91

hzÞÅ-mÅ-Á¼-hÝ-FÛh-qü 91

ŸïÅ-zXôh-qÅ-±ß¼-TP-¤Û-¬ü¿Ë-ż-º‚ô¼-Ç+zÅ-ym-n¤Å-ˆP-¾Å-¤Û¼-zNå¼-z-Á-ÇeG-»Ûm-

»P-z®ôm-q-¿e-zÞ¼-w¼-±ß¼-ºIô-zBôh-¤Û-VôG-q-hP-ü ¿Ë-Å-mÅ-z¸ÞP-P-±ô¼-¹-¼ï¼-hPÞ¾-wôGÅ-vôh-¤Gô-±ßGÅ-bïü ¾Å-¤Û-¼z-¾-¹-¼ï¼-ÇKô¼-28 hP.¯¤-q-M-¤- 45 ºƒÛP-¾-ÇKô¼- 24 ¯¤-q-M-¤- 38 f-¤¼-ÇKô¼- 20 hP-¯¤-q-M-¤- 28 zTÅ-hP-ü ¼z-ºƒÛP-f-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-h‚ï-z-¤ïh-q¼-W-±-M-¤-GP-¼ï-hP-ü ¤¼-M-¤-GP-hP-xïh-zTÅ-ˆÛ-MÅ-zTh-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-z¸ôÅ-ÁÛP-ü GôP-Gž-¹-¼ïºÛ-hPÞ¾-fôG-mÅ-z¸º-zTºÛ-¼Ûm-hôh-ÇKô¼- 13 hP-ü wÛm- 6 GTôG-GÛ-¼ïhü

ZÛm-GÅÞ¤-XïÅ-mÅ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-¿Ë-Å-mÅ-Á¼-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-FÛh-hï-Áï-¼ôP-Áï¼-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-¾¤-ºyP-Zïm-ºGm-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-bà-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-GTÛG-G»P-¾-¿ËàP-mÅ-¤Û-hÝ-¤¼-©Å-Bôm-hP-ü G-hP-h¤G-ÇK¼-HÛ-zM-hqôm-hGÝP-¾ô-zŸÛ-zTß¼-Åôm-qºÛ-M¾-¯ï-z-PG-hzP-M¾-¤±m-ºhÅ-IôPÅ-ÅÞ-Hã¼-ŸÛP-ü G»P-¾-¿ËàP-qºÛ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-ºhôm-Vïh-zÇ+ݾ-hïh-‚Å-qºÛ-DÞ¾-hïºÛ-¤Û-Åï¼-n¤Å-mÅ-¤Û-h¼-¤-ŸÛG-hP-ü wm-±ßm-mP-¤ô¾-‚ãP-Ç+zÅ-uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-qºÛ-Ç+zÅ-¸-MãºÛ-¤fÞm-Aïm-º²ô¤Å-ÁÛP-ü ÆÛh-‚ãÅ-GÝ-»PÅüVôÅ-xôGÅ-mÅ-¿Ëô-μôP-hGôm-q-¤Pº-fP-Vï-¾ü hGï-ºhÝm-n¤-qÅ-zÁh-Oæz-ˆÛ-zÇem-q-º²Ûm-BôP-Çtï¾-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-¾Å-¾-z¯ôm-zŸÛm-»ôh-q-zTÅ-

Page 114: 14 mount-everest-dingri

92

92 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zhï-BÛh-wÞm-ÅÞ¤-±ôGÅ-qô-»ôhüuÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô¼-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-iG-Gmôm-‚Å-mÅ-z Þ̧P-zhï-

BÛh-±ÛG-Ç+¤-hÝ-Hã¼-mÅ-¤m¼-GTôh-Mãm-Vh-Mã-¤Û-ºhÝG-TïÅ-zÁh-q-hP-ü»P-hï-¾Å-TßP-¾ô-GŸôm-qºÛ-¤Û-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-ÇSôm-HÛ-Ç+h-VºÛ-¤WâG-¤fÞh-hï-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-uÛ-±ôGÅ-Gż-½‰ÛP-zÇkݼ-mü zhï-BÛh- Û̂Å-Ez-qºÛ-uÛ-±ôGÅ-Gż-q¼-zŤ-ÁïÅ-hP.ü ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-HÛÅ-Ez-qºÛ-uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-q-im-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-Ȥ-Gb¤-WÛ-¿e¼-zÁh-ˆP-hôm-hPôÅ-fôG-zôh-¤Û-n¤Å-I¾-¼Û¤-DG-¤P-hÝ-h‚ï-z-Çeïü hP-qô-¤Pº-zhG GZÛÅ-q-Å-zhG GÅÞ¤-q-¤Pº-±zü zŸÛ-q-ŸÛP-xãG ¿S-q-ŸÛP-q-ºƒÛP-ü iâG-q-¤Û-Pmü zhÝm-q-zÁÝ-GŸôG-I¾-¼Û¤-zTÅ-hP.ü ºƒôG-q-hP.ü ±ôP-qºÛ-I¾-¼Û¤-zTÅ-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü I¾-¼Û¤-ºhÛ-hG-»Ûm-qºÛ-zôh-¤Û-n¤Å-M-h¤¼-HÛ-¾Å-‚ïh-ÅÞ-ŸÛG-GÛ-qÞÅ-¤ô-»m-¾-¿e-¤Û-VôG-q¼-„À-¤-BïÅ-Vïm-h¤-q¼-GÝÅ-ºhÝh-ŸÝ-z-zŸÛm-‚ïh-hGôÅ-q-hP-ü zôh-¤Û-»ÛG-Bï¾-hP.ü ¤ï-GbôP-Vß-¾ïm-ÅôGÅ-¾-ZÛm-¤±m-hÝÅ-iâG-bà-¤ÛºÛ-ºhÝ-ÁïÅ-®¤-¤ïh-q¼-ºyâ¾-ºDô¼-¿e¼-z;ô¾-bïü I¾-¼Û¤-qºÛ-Å-mÅ-ºyôG-qºÛ-hq¾-º‚ô¼-¾Å-JÀ-V-ºy¾-Åï¾-¼ï-vôhü hzÞ¾-wôPÅ-n¤Å-¾ºP-P¾- ô̄¾-Ç+ݾ-ºhïh-È-TP-Vï-ŸÛP-ü¾Å-¤±¤Å-zŸG-XïÅ-¤±m-¤ô-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-zÇ+ôPÅ-mÅ-¤ºôºÛ-̄ -zºÛ-GÅÞP-ô̄¤-GÅÞ¤-HÛÅ-G®ôÅ-h¤¼-qôºÛ-¿e-z¼-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-‚ïh-hÝ-zTßG-GÛ-ºhÝG-TïÅ-

Page 115: 14 mount-everest-dingri

93

hzÞÅ-mÅ-Á¼-hÝ-FÛh-qü 93

»Ûh-VïÅ-„ÀôÅ-ºGï¾-HÛÅ-zXôhü¿Ëô-μôP-hÝ-ŸG-GÅÞ¤-GmÅ-zTÅ-ÁÛP-ü hï-mÅ-¾-GTÛG-zMz-

Çeï-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-Gbô¼-Bôm-zbP-zºÛ-GŸÛ-M-Vï-zºÛ-μÛ-fô-hGôm-Çeô¼-Áݾ-hÝ-ÇÀïzÅü μÛ-fô-hGôm-hÝ-M-¤ÛÅ-z®ßGÅ-qºÛ-μôP-hP-z®ôm-DP-»ôh-q-hP-ü hï-mÅ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-HÛ-ºIô-¾¤-¤ïh-q¼-zdïm-Z¾-VÅ-ÅôGÅ-Mz-¾-ºDÞ¼-mÅ-uÛ-¾ï-zTß-IPÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-Çeô¼-zÁÛG-zbP-zºÛ-GŸÛ-M-Vï-zºÛ-Pô¤-fô-hGôm-hÝ-uÛ-¾ô- 1965 ¹- 8 qºÛ-mP-º‚ô¼-mÅ-hï-G¼-GmÅ-Çkôh-‚Åü

Pô¤-fô-hGôm-hÝ-hGôP-iô-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-ŸÛG-±ßGÅ-bï-M-GŸÝP-¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-ŸÛP-¼-Gż-q-º²âGÅ-»Þ¾-ºhÛ-»Ûm-ŸÛP.ü ŸÛP-¼-hP-qô-hP-GZÛÅ-qü GÅÞ¤-q-zTÅ-z¸ô-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-hïü xÛ-ZÛm-Å-fÛG-zMz-Çeïü ŸÛP-¼-hP-qô-fP-h;¼-¤fôPÅ-hP.ü GZÛÅ-q-Wô-f¼-fP.ü GÅÞ¤-q-Pô¤-fô-zTÅ-¾-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü ŸÛP-¼-¾-¤Dô-hGôÅ-d-¸ôG-Zô-Oæz-‚ïh-q¼-ºGô-‚ïh-GTÛG-hP-¤Z¤-hÝ-¾Å-¤Û-zŸÛ-¼ï-zTÅ-DG-GÅÞ¤-¾-zGôÅ-bï-zbP-z-mÅü ym-ÇSô-Áôh-DÞ¾-hÝ-ºIô-IÅ-»Ûmü ÇSôô-Áôh-hÝ-zBôh-qºÛ-¾¤-hÝ-¾¤-z¸ô-z-Eôm-Vï-ºhÝG-q-n¤Å-mÛ-¤Pº-zhG-hP.ü¤Pº-±zü ŸÛP-q-VßP-ºƒÛP.ü Vz-ÆÛh-ˆÛ-ŸÐ-»ôh-q-Á-ÇeG-¼ïhü

Dô-±ôÅ-ym-±ô-¤fôP-¤-fG-M-¤ÛºÛ-¾Å-‚ïh-hÝ-Åï¤Å-bï-¤Gô-ÇKݼ-

Page 116: 14 mount-everest-dingri

94

94 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

mÅ-GÝÅ-ºhÝh-‚ïh-qü ym-HÛÅ-P-±ô-GTÛG-Hã¼-hP-ü ym-±ô-z®ôm-q-¾Å-¤Û¼-zNå¼-zºÛ-IÅ-»Ûm-qÅ-GÝÅ-ºhÝh-‚ïh-¤Û-hGôÅ-zXôh-q-hP-ühïºÛ-hzÞÅ-G Þ̧GÅ-ÇeôzÅ-Vï-ŸÛP-Hôm-GôÅ-Éâ¾-zºÛ-¾¤-¾Å-q-¾ô-m-¿S-zTß-»ô¾-zºÛ-¤Û-ŸÛG-±ß¼-fôm-bïü Eïh-±ô-GP-mÅ-»Ûm-hP-ü GP-hÝ-ºIô-ÅôGÅ-iÛÅü ym-mÅ-Pïh-n¤Å-M¾-Dz-ˆÛ-ŸÛP-¼-Gż-º²âGÅ-Vïh-d-¸ôG-Zô-Oæz-‚ïh-qºÛ-G»ôG-bà-¤PGÅ-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-zXôhü

¤Û-Lm-hïÅ-DôP-GÛ-¤ÛP-¾-zŤ-Iâz-hP-ü ÇSô-Áôh-hGôm-HÛ-Zï-ºhzÅ-ÅÞ-»ôh-qºÛ-DôP-GÛ-EÛ¤-¾-P-±ô-ÅP-ZÛm-»ôP-hGôÅ-qºÛ-¼ï-z-zbôm-‚ãP-ü ÅP-ZÛm-hï-zŤ-Iâz-ˆÛ-EÛ¤-hÝ-xÛm-qÅ-DôP-GÛÅ-Eïh-±ô-PºÛ-EÛ¤-hÝ-ºzôh-hôm-mÛ-P-±ô-zŤ-xôGÅ-GTÛG-Hã¼-»Ûm-qÅü »Ûh-VïÅ-„ÀôÅ-ºGï¾-fôG-PÅ-Vz-¤hô-ŸÛ-z-¿Ë-¯h-GTôh-Vïh-»Ûmü ŸÛ-z-¿Ë-¼Ûm-qô-Vïü uÛ-¾ô-1959 h¤G-ºFâG-Ç+zÅ-¿Ë-Å-mÅ-¿Ëô-¾¤-zMãh-M-G¼-hÝ-ƒôÅ-Ç+zÅ-¤-f¼-q¼ü Vß-¤hô-¾-zMz-mÅ-hq¾-ºz¼-HÛ-ºfz-ºFâG-z¼-P-hP-¤Z¤-hÝ-»ôh-ˆP-ü hï-XïÅ-DôP-z½ÀGÅ-mÅ-PÅ-h-z¼-¯h-GTôh-ŸÝÅ-ˆP-hïP-Ç+zÅ-ºhÅ-GÅôm-GP-»Ûm-V-¤-º±¾-zÅü DôP-GÛ-Ç+ô¼-¼P-GÛÅ-¤fôP-z-hP-GŸm-mÅ-fôÅ-q-ÅôGÅ-¤-‚ãP-P¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-‚ãP-ü ym-HÛÅ-ŸÛ-z-¿Ë-¼Ûm-qô-VïºÛ-Ç+ô¼-¤fôP-fôÅ-GP-»P-¤-‚ãP-ü hq¾-ºz¼-h¤G-ºFâG-Ç+zÅ-¤Û-WÛ-®¤-»ôh-hP-xÛ-M¾-mÅ-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-‚ãP-¤Ûm-iÛÅ-q¼ü

Page 117: 14 mount-everest-dingri

95

hzÞÅ-mÅ-Á¼-hÝ-FÛh-qü 95

zŤ-Iâz-ˆÛÅ-zôh-Á¼-xôGÅ-mÅ-»ôP-zºÛ-ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-z-hP-ü hq¾-ºz¼-DÞ¾-HÛ-hP-„ÀP-h¤G-¤Û-zTÅ-Eôm-ÇeôP-yG-¿S-®¤-ŸÛG-»ôh-q-hP-ü Í-¼ÛºÛ-fh-ºwÞ¼-Gm¤-IâÅ-¤Û-hP-¾G-V-zTÅ-hï-DÞ¾-G»ÞGÅü

ºôm-bP-Gm¤-fôG-mÅ-zzÅ-qºÛ-¤Û-n¤Å-½Àô¤Å-Åï¤Å-Vï-z-hP-ü¾G-V-n¤Å-xôGÅ-GTÛG-bà-zhG-Z¼-‚Å-q-Ǩh-xôGÅ-¤Û-hP-ü hq¾-ºz¼-DÞ¾-HÛ-¤Û-Åï¼-zTÅ-ˆÛÅ-¼P-Åô-Åô¼-hGôÅ-±ß¾-zXôh-qÅü hï-mÅ-xôGÅ-GZÛÅ-¾-Gô-¤±ôm-ym-®¤-¼ï-vh-hï-¤P-Vï-z-DP-qºÛ-mP-z¯ÛGÅ-bï-Dô-q-±ô-VP-¼G-¾-¤Gô-ºDô¼-bïü GZÛh-Áô¼-Ç+zÅ-Í-¼ÛºÛ-Gm¤-Iâ-¾m-GZÛÅ-ÇÀïzÅ-ˆP-¤-ÁïÅ-q¼-xÛ¼-¾ôG-Áô¼ü

hq¾-ºz¼-HÛ-¤Û-iG-zÞ-zhÝh-ºhݾ-HÛÅ-Gm¤-fôG-mÅ-zzÅ-qºÛ-¤Û-hï-±ô¼-Gž-zÁh-‚Å-hômü Eïh-±ô-P-±ô¼-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-hP.ü ºGô-ºFÛh-hÝ-¤PGÅ-ˆP.ü Eïh-±ôÅ-VP-¼G-hP.ü zÞh-¤ïhü d-Zô-z-zTÅ-zG-¤ïh-h=ôG-h=ôG-Á-ÇeG-GÛÅ-GÅP-z-Áô¼-mü ¼P-¼ïºÛ-¾Å-hôm-zOæz-¤Û-fÞz-TïÅ-Gô-Ç+ôm-„Àô-ºGÝG-mm-qô-‚Å-q¼ü Zm-ÁïÅ-Gbm-mÅ-¤ïh-q¼-uÛ-hôm-¼Å-ÅÞ-zô¼-zºÛ-Pm-ºƒÅ-¾-ZÛm-GTÛG-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-hq¾-ºz¼-HÛ-xôGÅ-zŸÛ-mÅ-iG-Gmôm-‚Å-bïü z¯ÛGÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-Gô-¤±ôm-n¤Å-¤ïÅ-º±ÛGÅ-mÅ-¿UGÅ-ÉâG-Çt¼-z-GP-hÝ-Hã¼ü ŸïÅ-ºHôh-Åï¤Å-±h-¤ïh-‚ïhü

Page 118: 14 mount-everest-dingri

96

96 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ym-n¤Å- Û̂Å-ZÛm-GÅÞ¤-¼ÛP-DÞ¾-hïºÛ-I¾-¼Û¤-q-n¤Å- Û̂-¤hÝm-mÅ-d-Zô-Ç+zÅ-¼Ûm-GôP-h¤º-z-hP-ü I¾-¼Û¤-¤Ûm-q-n¤Å-mÅ-Zô-Ç+zÅ-¼Ûm-GôP-Vï-z-vôh-qºÛ-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-Çeïü d-ÅÞ¤-Tß-Åô-GTÛG-ZôÅ-ÁÛP-Pô¤-fô¼-xÛ¼-¾ôG-Ç+zÅü d-¸ôG-Zô-¤Dm-GŸm-n¤Å-ˆP-º‚ô¼-bï-Eôm-zÇkô¤Å-d-hGÝ-zTß-Gô-hGÝ-hP.ü ºƒÛ-G»G-ÅÞ¤-Tß-Åô-zŸÛ-zTÅ-ºhÝG d- ô̧G-n¤Å-¾-¢Ûm-MãºÛ-G¸m- Ó̄-n¤Å-DÞ¾-hïºÛ-I¾-¼Û¤-q-n¤Å-¾-ÇeôP-¤Ûm-®¤-HÛ-¼Ûm-hôh-TßP-¼ï-vh-hïü ¤Û-ºhôh-ˆP-z®m-ºyôG-‚Å-bï-I¾-¼Û¤-q-hP-DôP-±ôºÛ-ÇKô-xãGÅ-ˆP-¿eôGÅ-z=ïÅ-ˆÛ-ÇkÝG-¾-¢¼ü

ZÛm-ŸÛG-¤Pº-zhG-hGº-»-±P-ŸïÅ-q-mÅ-G¸m-¯Ó-Zô-Ç+zÅ-EÛ¤-zhG-GÛÅ-¯Ó-¾ïGÅ-q-hï-mÛ-P-±ôºÛ-©ôÅ-¤²ô-©ô-JÀP-GÅô-hGôÅ-qÅüTßP-Ÿm-q-hï-mÅ-ºEï¼-¼ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-¼ï-z-zbôm-q¼-M-¾Å-Gm¤-GP-GÛÅ-¯Ó-¾ïGÅ-q-¤-vh-m-¤Û-ºIÛG-TïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü EÛ¤-zhG-GÛÅ-Eïh-±ôÅ-ÁïÅ-Gž-¿e¼-©ôÅ-¤²ô-©ô-JÀP-hP-hÝh-ºIô-GÅô-MãºÛ-¯Ó-ºhÛ-GZÛÅ-¾Å-¤ïhü P-±ô-Z¤-VßP-¤Û-Åï¼-¾-zŤ-„Àô-GbP-m-¼z-¾Åü hï-¤Ûm-P-±ô¼-‚-fzÅ-GP-»P-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü »P-ü M-¾Å-d-¤IÛm-hzP-xãG-GÛÅ-¤Pº-zhG-hP.ü ¤Pº-±zü ŸÛP-q-xãG-qô-n¤Å-¤Û-¤P-GÛ-hI-zô-»Ûm-qÅü Eïh-±ô¼-Gb¤-zXôh-̂ Û-hzP-V-»P-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü hGº-»-±P-GÛ-EÛ¤-zhG-¤Gô-zô-Å-¾-hÝh-TÛP-ü zÞh-¤ïh-n¤Å-mÛ-PÞÅü ¼¾-

Page 119: 14 mount-everest-dingri

97

hzÞÅ-mÅ-Á¼-hÝ-FÛh-qü 97

q-Tm-HÛ-yâ-GÝ-ÇozÅ-¾ÞG-q-Vï-VßP-GÅÞ¤-HÛÅ-ºWÛGÅ-ÇoP-¿km-qºÛ-PP-MP-¼ÛP-DÞG-mÅ-P-±ô¼-¿e-zŸÛm-¤VÛÅü

M-¾Å-d-¤IÛm-hzP-xãG-GÛÅ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-P-±ô-¤Û-zTô-¿S¼- Ó̄-¾ïGÅ-q-mÅ-ºEï¼-hGôÅ-zXôh-q¼-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-HÛÅ-̄ -¾ïGÅ-q-ºEï¼-z-hP-ü GŸm-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-¯Ó-Ÿm-q-mÅ-ºEï¼-zÅ-d-¤IÛm-hzP-xãG-GÛÅ-Eïh-±ô-Ço-DÞG-GTÛG-mÅ-hzÞGÅ-GbôP-¤Dm-hP.ü hô¼-¤-GTÛG-mP-@P-q-zTßG-¤Dm-¼ïhü TïÅ-±ÛG-Pm-¤P-hÝ-zbz-TÛP-ü ŸÛP-¼¼-º‚ô¼-Ç+zÅ-±P-¤-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-zÇ+ôPÅ-bïü Ÿºô-Dºô-=P-GÛÅ-¯Ó-¾ïm-¤Dm-¤Û-ÅÞ-»Ûm-Eïh-±ô¼-MãÅ-¤Pº-¿km-qÅü hô-zhG-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-¯Ó-Ÿm-q-ºEï¼-zºÛ-Mã-¤±m-hP.üh¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-zÁh-m-¾ïGÅ-q-¾Åü hï-¤Ûm-¼Þ-DG-n¤Å-º±ôGÅ-mÅ-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-(hôm-hÝ-ºfz-º²ÛP-)‚ïh-hGôÅ-ˆÛ-¼ïh-TïÅ-GÁï-GÁï-zbP-ü

±ôGÅ-Vïm-Iô¾-mÅ-±ôGÅ-VßP-º±ôGÅ-Ç+zÅ-ym-±ôÅ-¤ºô-=âºÞ-ŸÛºÛ-hïz-mP-¤Û-h¤PÅ-¾-ŸzÅ-ºhïGÅ-ŸÝ-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-Gž-zÅü hGº-»-±P-¾-ºyâ¾-ºDô¼-¤ïh-Aïm-©ôh-¤²ô-©ôh-JÀP-hGôÅ-PïÅ-ÇezÅü hï-hG-GÅô-MãºÛ-¯Ó-hï-ym-±ôÅ-ºEï¼-¤ïh-TïÅ-zXôh-q¼ü M-¾Å-d-¤IÛm-hzP-xãG-GÛÅ-hGº-»-±P-¤Pº-zhG-hI-zô-ŸÛG-»Ûm-q-PÅ-ÇS-Å-mÅ-Eïh-±ô¼-zÁh-»ôh-TïÅ-¸ï¼ü ym-±ôÅ-¤ºô-=âºÞ-ŸÛºÛ-hïz-mP-¤Pº-zhG-ˆP-uÛ-h¤PÅ-ˆÛ-IÅ-ÅÞ-º±ßh-qÅü ŸzÅ-ºhïGÅ-ŸÝ-»Þ¾-ŸÛG-bà-Hã¼-

Page 120: 14 mount-everest-dingri

98

98 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

q-¾Å-Ço-DÞG-GTÛG-mÅ-hzÞGÅ-zbP-z-hP.ü hô¼-¤-GTÛG-mP-@P-q-zTßG-q-¯-z-mÅ-¤Ûmü ŸïÅ-¼P-ZÛh-hG-ºzÞh-‚ïh-qºÛ-PP-¾-hï-ZÛm-HÛ-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-Iô¾ü

uÛ-¾ô- 1965 ¹- 10 ±ïÅ-Á¼-¾-ym-ÅôGÅ-¾Å-ÁÝGÅ-Vï-zºÛ-¤Û-ZÛ-ÁÝ-zOæGÅ-mÅ-¤ï-¾ï- 15 ®¤-»ôh-qºÛ-ż-ÁÛP-zTh-zTßG-Çeïü ¹-GTÛG-®¤-¼ÛP-ZÛm-¤±m-¤ïh-q¼-P-±ô-Vß¼-º²â¾-bï-ÁÛP-Vß¼-hïh-zTßG-qÅ-¾Å-¤Û-n¤Å-ºEG-¤m¼-È-TP-Vï-Aïmü @P-qºÛ-qGÅ-q-¾m-GZÛÅ-®¤-zXïÅ-ÁÛP-ü ¤hÝP-¤-n¤Å-ŸÛP-¼¼-º‚ô¼-Zï-¤±¤Åü ZÛm-GTÛG-JÀô-zÞ¼-ÁÛP-n¤Å-Vß-D¼-zbôm-zTßG-mÅ-¾Å-¤Û-GŸm-»ôh-źÛ-fP-h;¼-¤fôPÅ-ÅÞ-ym-±ô-FÛhü

ZÛm-GZÛÅ-XïÅ-GôP-¼Û¤-mÅ-º‚ô¼-zºÛ-z;º-»ÛG-Ez-zOGÅ-‚Å-qºÛ-mP-ŸÛP-¼-Gż-q-VGÅ-»Þ¾-Pô¤-fô¼-ºôÅ-¤Ûm-hP.ü GmÅ-Ç+zÅ-¼ÛP-Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-μôP-GÛ-GÅÞ¤-º²ô¤Å-Å-DÞ¾-hÝ-Çtô-hGôÅ-qºÛ-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-‚Åü M-¾Å-Gm¤-GP-GÛÅ-¾Å-¤Û-GZÛÅ-FÛh-hï-Çtô-»Þ¾-hÝ-ºIô-¾¤-¾-¯ï-D-zÅ-ºGG-»ôh-¤ïh-z¿e-z¼-xÛm-mÅü ±ß¼-ºDô¼-Ç+zÅ-D-zÅ-f¼-Å-¤ïh-±ß¾-zXôh-q-zŸÛmü ym-±ô-¤Û-iâG-Tß-mÅ-¤Û-ZÛ-ÁÝ-d-¸ôG-º±ô-z-hP-ü ym-ÅôGÅ-¤Û-zŸÛ-zTß-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-fôG-Çtô-zô-GÅÞ¤-º²ô¤Å-ˆÛ-h¤G-¤ÛºÛ-ŸÛP-¼-ŸÛG-bà-zŸG-mÅ-hï¼-Vz-

Page 121: 14 mount-everest-dingri

99

hzÞÅ-mÅ-Á¼-hÝ-FÛh-qü 99

¤hô-Å-DÞ¾-HÛ-hqôm-qô-Éâ-FP-ŸïÅ-q-ŸÛG-º‚ô¼-bï-zÁh-hômü ÇSôm-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-¸Ûm-qºÛ-ŸÛP-¼-Gż-q-VGÅ-»Þ¾-Pô¤-fô-Å-Mã-¤Û-¾ïGÅ-qÅ-Å-ŸÛP-ºhïzÅ-h;º-z-¤-¸hü hI-zôºÛ-Gm¤-IâºP-fïPÅ-GZÛÅ-®¤-º‚ô¼-»ôhü h-¿e-Eïh-±ô-ºhÛ-G-GÅÞ¤-º²ô¤-hÝ-¹-GTÛG-®¤-Çkôh-hGôÅü ¼P-BôP-¿YôPÅ-mÅ-z;º-º‚ô¼-¤±¤Å-ŸÛP-¼-Gż-q-GP-hÝ-º²âGÅ-MãºÛ-Gž-zOGÅ-‚-Mã-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-hP-ü P-±ô¼-G»G-±GÅ-qô-GTÛG-Zô-MãºÛ-VôG-¤Vm-vh-hï-xÛ¼-¾ôG

M-hqôm-Éâ-FP-GÛÅ-VôG-¤Vm-vh-q-¿e¼-lô-Xï-VßÅü ºWô-¾ô-ÁP-mÅ-G»G-¤²ô-GP-¼ÞP-ŸÛG-„ÀP-VôG-qºÛ-¾G-ºEï¼-vh-q¼ü M-¾Å-d-¤IÛm-hzP-xãG-hP.ü M¾-¯ï-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛhü ym-zTÅ-¾ïm-hÝ-zbP-ü ¾¤-z¼-M-¾Å-d-¤IÛm-hzP-xãG-GÛÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1964¾ô¼-μ-»Þ¾-hÝ-¤Û-Pm-¼ï-GZÛÅ- Û̂Å-ÁÛP-GÅïz-mÅ-ºWz-Lô¾-‚Å-bï-¤Û-¤P-qô-zÅh-qÅü ¾ÞP-q-ºhÛ-±ôºÛ-ÁÛP-mGÅ-ÇeàG-qô-hP-ü ¾¤-È-TP-¯çz-q¼-zdïmü P-±ô-»P-G¸z-G¸z-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zXôhü ym-HÛÅ-¾Å-‚ïh-Eïh-¾-mÛ-¤ï-¤hº-»ôh-q-hP-ü ym-GZÛÅ-¾-@Ýz-ºDÞ¼-Mã-»ôh-TïÅ-;Ý-¼ïºÛ-±ß¾-hÝ-zXôhü

ºWô-¾ô¼-ÁP-=P-GÛ-DP-q¼-zŸG-q-hP-ü ÁP-hï¼-¾Å-hôm-±ôGÅ-VßP-M-zôh-¤Û-iâG-»ôh-TÛP-ü hïºÛ-ºGô-G®ô-;Ým-hGº-ŸïÅ-q-hP-fÞz-zÇem-

Page 122: 14 mount-everest-dingri

100

100 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ŸïÅ-q-GZÛÅ-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛh-hP-ym-HÛ-¤Z¤-hÝ-»ôP-Çeïü ŸÛP-q-xãG-qôºÛ-ŸÐ-¤ô-G»ôGÅ-qºÛ-lô-Xï-ŸïÅ-q¼-±GÅ-qô-ŸÛG-vôh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-z;º-zbP-ü ŸÛP-xãG-lô-XïÅ-hzP-¤ïh-¤²ô-ŸÛG-vh-q¼-¼Ûm-ÇKô¼- 80 vh-hï-ÁP-=P-GÛ-DP-q¼-xÛ¼-zBôh-¾¤-hÝü ym-HÛÅ-;Ým-hG¼-GôP-¼Û¤-mÅ-¾Å-hôm-±ôGÅ-VßP-G-hÝÅ-zbP-P¤ü ¾Å-;-GP-‚ïh-h¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-qÅ-fÞz-zÇem-HÛÅ-=âP-ÈÛm-Å-¤±¤Å-ˆÛ-ºFâG-¯ôh-Ç+zÅ-I¾-¼Û¤-hI-zôºÛ-±ß¼-Lô¾-ÇSôm-ºGôG-Vïhü ¾Å-hôm-¼Þ-DG-zbP-ŸÛP-ü ¾Å-hôm-mÛ-I¾-¼Û¤-¾-h‚ï-ŸÛz-‚Å-bï-¤Û-Pm-n¤Å-Gbô¼-ºHï¾-GbôP-Mã-¼ïhü

uÛ-¾ô- 1962 ¾ô-mÅ-h-z¼-¾ô-Pô-GÅÞ¤-®¤-¼ÛP-¤Û-¤P-¾-h‚ï-ŸÛz-‚Å-q¼-zdïmü ¤Û-¾ïGÅ-ZïÅ-P-±ôÅ-ÁïÅ- Û̂-¼ïh-zXôh-qºÛ-Ç+zÅ-hï¼ü ºGô-G®ô-;Ým-hGºÛ-¼Þ¤-mÅ-hïz-VßP-ŸÛG-Å-ÇeïP-¿ËàP-q-ym-HÛÅ-GÅP-Z¼-‚Åü

xÛ-ZÛm-¤²ô-hïh-mÅ-GÅÞ¤-º²ô¤Å-ŸÛP-¼¼-zBôh-¾¤-M-¾Å-d-¤IÛm-hzP-xãG-GÛÅ-hïP-Ç+zÅ-¤Û-Åï¼-n¤Å-¾ü ÇSôm-¤ïh-zhï-BÛh-»ôh-Ç+ô¼-Áôh- Û̂m-P-±ô-EÛ¤-±P-ŸÛG-GÛ-ÇKô-ºI¤-ÇÀïzÅ-q-hï¼-GÝP-±ÛGÅ-z¸Åü¤Û-±P-hï¼-¾ô-m-LÅ-ÁÛP-ºDôGÅ-qºÛ-Lm-qô-GTÛG-hP-z¸º-¤Û-GZÛÅüHôm-q-qGÅ-±GÅ-ɾ-Éâ¾-Hôm-qºÛ-yâ-GÝ-Vï-VßP-¿S-zTÅ-ºhÝG

ym-±ô-fôm-D¼-Lm-qôÅ-Eïh-n¤-q¼-̄ ¤-q-»ôh-±ï-ym-zÞ-vôh-¼ôGÅ-

Page 123: 14 mount-everest-dingri

101

hzÞÅ-mÅ-Á¼-hÝ-FÛh-qü 101

zXôh-q¼ü ym-HÛÅ-Eïh-¼P-I¾-¼Û¤-GP-»Ûm-iÛÅ-qÅü Lm-qôÅ-I¾-¼Û¤-hzÞ¾-qô-»Ûm-¸ï¼ü ym-hP-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-¯¤-q-¿ËG-¤-n¤Å-Lm-qô¼-vh-hïü d-¤IÛm-hzP-xãG-¾-zhï-BÛh-ˆÛ-ZÛ-¤-ŸÛG-ºhÛ¼-ºV¼-ºhÝG-TïÅ-zXôh-q¼ü d-¤IÛm-hzP-xãG-GÛÅ-uÛ-±ôGÅ-mP-ºhÛ-¿e-zÞ-¼ï-¸ÞP-»ôP-ÆÛhü ºôm-bï-Eïh-ˆÛ-Ç+h-V-hïÅ-zŤ-„ÀôºÛ-¾PÅ-xôGÅ-GP-hÝ-»ôh-¼-ºyôh-q-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü

GÅÞ¤-º²ô¤Å-h¤G-¤ÛºÛ-ŸÛP-¼¼-¹-GTÛG-®¤-¼ÛP-Åô¾-z-zÆïGÅ-zTßG-qºÛ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-Çtô-zô-z Þ̧P-Ço-mÅ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-ŸÛG-mP-M-hqôm-ŸÛG-»ôP-Çeïü z®ôm-DP-ÍP-GZÛÅ-qºÛ-DôPÅ-v-¾ÞP-ŸÛP-¼¼-ºIô-hGôÅ-qºÛ-º²âz-Çeôm-‚Å-bïü ŸôGÅ-q-ÇS-qô¼-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-fôG-v-¾ÞP-hÝ-FÛhü

Page 124: 14 mount-everest-dingri

102

102 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zMh-qü

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü(1965-1968)

v-¾ÞP-hÝ-Vz-¤hô-Å-DÞ¾-HÛ-z®ôm-q-¾Å-¤Û¼-zNå¼-z-¤Û-IPÅ-zMh-Tß-H-GTÛG-hP-ym-±ô-¤Z¤-hÝ-zŸG-Çeïü GP-‚ãP-ºIô-zBôh-¤Û-VôG-qºÛ-Å-¤±¤Å-Gbm-ºDï¾-z¸ôÅ-q-hP-ü Å-hï-mÅ-zL¾-hGôÅ-m-zTß-hqôm-zMãh-M-¾Å-¾-hGôPÅ-q-ŸÝ-hGôÅ-q-¤-¸hü DÞ¾-hïºÛ-¤Û-Åï¼-hP-ºƒï¾-zü mP-DÞ¾-¤Gô-zhï-JÀGÅ-±ôP-ü M-¾Å-ˆÛ-z;º-¾-Hïm-¿kôG-¤Û-VôG-q-ÅôGÅ-¤hô¼-m| Mãm-hÝ-GŸÝP-GÛ-z;º-¿e¼-¾Å-;-‚ïh-Mã-¾Å-BG-GTÛm-GbôP-zºÛ-hzP-V-¤-GbôGÅ-¤ïh-TïÅ-Gž-qô¼-zÁhü hï¼-¾Å-hôm-¼Þ-DG-;Ým-hGºÛ-¤hÝm-mÅ-fôz-qºÛ-hïz-¾-z¿eÅ-qÅüºƒÛ-Vß -±ßm-HÛ-zôh-Å-n¤Å-Å-DÞ¾-zhÝm-hÝ -zGôÅ-ºhÝG-q-

Page 125: 14 mount-everest-dingri

103

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü 103

GÁ¤-Gžü1] Vz-¤hôü2] mG-Vßü3] ;ôP-qô-ZÛP-FÛü4] ¾Ëô-Dü5] M¾-¯ïü6] GŸÛÅ-¯ïü7] ¤Pº-¼ÛÅ-zTÅ-»ÛmüÅ-DÞ¾-¼ï¼-μôP- 8 mÅ- 10 z¼-hP-ü μôP-¼ï¼-VßÅ- 7

mÅ- 10 z¼ü VßÅ-¼ï-¼ï¼-Å-Eôm-Vï-VßP-GÛÅ-IôP-Çkï-¤P-ZÝP-xï-ŸÛP-ü IôP-±ô¼-±ôm-¸ï¼ü¾Å-hôm-±ôGÅ-VßP-GÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-mÛü¤Û-¤P-zÇ+ôPÅ-bï-uÛ-DP-º²âGÅ-Mã-hP.ü ¤fº-¤±¤Å-h¤G-ºFâG-‚ãP-±ï-Gô-¤±ôm-hzô¼-Mãü »Þ¾-h¤G-zÇkÝ-Ç+ôP-‚-Mã-zTÅ-Gžü

P-±ô-º‚ô¼-mÅ-ZÛm-zhÝm-®¤-XïÅ-&qa-Vïm-¼Ûm-qô-VïºÛ-G¸Û¤-ºGG-q-‚¤Å-q-¤VôG-hP-ü ŸzÅ-xÛ-lô-Xï-hI-ºhݾ-¾GÅ-ÅôGÅ-ºyâ¾-ºDô¼-ÇÀôz-IÔ-z-zTô-zMh-®¤-Vß-¤hô¼-P¾-¾Å-¾-zbP-z-hP-ü ym-v-¾ÞP-¼Þ-DG-GÛ-¾G-VºÛ-ºGô-º²Ûm-hÝ-zÇ+ôÅü

Page 126: 14 mount-everest-dingri

104

104 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ym-GmÅ-»Þ¾-Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-μôP-DôPÅ-ÅÞ-VßÅ-zMh-hP.ü M¾-GZï¼-ŸÛP-¼-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-z®ôm-DP-ÍP-GZÛÅ-qü ŸÛP-¼-hïºÛ-GÁ¤-¾-¼Þ-Vïm-zhÝm-hP.ü mP-GÅïÅ-zTß-GZÛÅ-»ôhü

ym-GmÅ-»Þ¾-v-¾ÞP-mÛ-mP-GÅïÅ-GÅÞ¤-q-»Ûmü ¹-z-GTÛG-®¤-mÅ-hï¼-»ôh-¾Å-¤Û-n¤Å-¾Å-¼ÛGÅ-ºi-¤Ûm-fôG-DG-zGôÅ-‚Å-bï| ym-ÁÛP-GTôh-DôPÅ-ÅÞ-zbP-ü ŸÛP-¼-hïºÛ-fôm-Bïh-G®ô-zô-mÛü ;Ý-ÁÝ-hP.ü ÁÛP-GÁôG ÁÛP-z¸ôü Vß-ºDô¼-zTÅ-¼ïhü

P-±ôºÛ-ÁÛP-GTôh-DôPÅ-¾Å-¤Û-zTô-¿S-»ôh-q-hP-ü hïºÛ-mP-Çtô-Çeôh-zÅôh-m¤Å-±ï-hzP-ŸïÅ-q-¤Û-G¸ÞGÅ-±h-hP-¿km-ŸÛP-ü C-±ôGÅ-hP-ǨÛm-¤-ÇeàG-¾-¤ÛG-ºƒÅ-Vï-zºÛ-¤ÛG-G»Å-qºÛ-ºôG-©-XïÅ-Gž-z¼-»ôh-qü Mãm-mÅ-hôm-¤ïh-¬-z-ZÝP-zü ¾ô-±ôh-ÅÞ¤-Tß-»ô¾-®¤-ŸÛG-ºhÝG-q-z¿eÅ-®¤-mÅ-uÛ¼-zbP-GÛ-¤Û-ŸÛG-Íï-»Ûm-lj¤-qºÛ-ÇoP-z-ŸÛG-ºV¼ü P-GZÛÅ-wm-±ßm-¼Û¤-qÅ-ºƒï¾-GÁÛz-‚ãP-Çeï-hÝÅ-ÁÛG-ÁÛP-mGÅ-hˆÛ¾-Ç+h-V-¿ËàG-qô¼-Áôh-qºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-‚ãP-zü DôP-GÛÅ-GÅÞPÅ-q| uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô-ÇSôm-PºÛ-EÛ¤-Çtô-Çeôh-mP-xãG-ÁôÅ-»Ûm-q-hP-P-¾-GTïm-qô-Vï-ÁôÅ-±ï-ÇeôzÅ-ÅôGÅ-zÞ-Çtäm-zhÝm-»ôhü

¾ô-hï¼-hq¾-ºz¼-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-M-h¤G-¾-ºGôG-Lô¾-‚ïh-qºÛ-zôh-¤Û-hP-P-±ô-Çtô-Çeôh-ˆÛ-»Þ¾-¤Û-ºƒï¾-z-‚ãP-Çeïü Çtô-Çeôh-hÝ-»P-

Page 127: 14 mount-everest-dingri

105

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü 105

M-h¤G-xÛ¼-ºzÞh-ˆÛ-h¤G-ºFâG-zÇÀPÅ-bïü P-±ô-GTïm-GTßP-n¤Å-¤Z¤-º²ô¤Å-fôG-zôh-¾-M¾-D-¤-ºfôz-mü G»Þ¾-ż-ºVÛ-MãºÛ-¤mº-zB¾-mÅ-M-h¤G-hP-Lô¾-º²ÛP-iG-bà-‚Å-qÅü ¼P-¼P-GÛÅ-hqº-GP-º±¤Å-¼ï-zŸG-Çeï-GTïm-GTßP-n¤Å-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-M-h¤G-GÛ-¤ï-¤hºÛ-ºôG-Å-ÇeïP-ºIÛ¾ü P-»P-¤mº-zB¾-z-zŸÛm-G»Þ¾-Å-mÅ-xÛ¼-ºfïm-‚-MãºÛ-zŤ-„Àô-Çtä-®¤-¤ïh-q¼-º²ÛP-Ç+zÅü ¤ï-¤hº-¤ÛG-G»Å-qºÛ-GÁ¤-hÝ-ºwôG-mÅ-GP-im-¤ïh-q¼-zM¾ü M-h¤G-GÛÅ-z¸ÞP-Çeï-Ǩm-zTôÅ-‚Å-q-hP-iÛ-z-ºi-¤Ûm-„ÀPÅ-bï-¤fº-¤¼-ºhÛ¼-zB¾-‚ãP-ü ŸïÅ-Pô-vôh-Gž-z¼-GmP-ü PÅ-ˆP-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-hP-¾PÅ-xôGÅ-GP-»Ûm-DôP-¾-ŸÝÅü

¼ïÅ-G¸º-ZÛ-¤-ŸÛG-¼P-ZÛh-hGôPÅ-q-ŸÝÅ-bï-wô¼-ÁÛP-z;ôG-q¼-v-¾ÞP-wÞ¼-ºIô-Ç+zÅü ¾-ZG-GÛ-ÇtP-GŸôPÅ-ÅÞ-£-Gݼ-mG-qô-ŸÛG-wÞz-ºhÝG-qü hï¼-xÛm-bï-xÛ-mÅ-ºzôh-qÅ-ÇKô-D¼-G¸ÞGÅ-hï-®¤-¤Û-Vï-zºÛ-¾ô-¿S-zTß-®¤-Åôm-qºÛ-¤Û-Çoݤ-zG-Tm-xã-q-Hôm-q-ŸÛG-fôm-»ôP-Çeïü Eïh-GP-mÅ-ºôPÅ-Ťü ŸïÅ-iÛÅü v-¾ÞP-z®ôm-q-¾Å-¤Û¼-zNå¼-z-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zÁh-qÅü Åï¤Å-hGº-ÇoP-Vïm-qôÅ-PºÛ-¤ÛP-¾-h;¼-¤Gôm-¸ï¼-z-hP-ü P-¾-»P-ŸÛP-q-xãG-qôºÛ-ŸÐ-¤ô-G»ôGÅ-qÅ-P-±ô-GTÛG-Hã¼-¼ïhü TïÅ-»¼-ºzôh-hï-Ÿô-hP-ºô-¤Å-Çoï-¾ïm-GP-

Page 128: 14 mount-everest-dingri

106

106 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¸z-‚Å-q-hP-ºIô-D¼-¤¼-ŸÛG-ˆP-zÇ+ݼüG¸º-ºDô¼-GZÛÅ- Û̂-XïÅ-PºÛ-ÇeïÅ-hzP-GÛ-IôGÅ-qô-h;¼-¤Gôm-

¾-fÞGÅ-Xï-Vï-ŸÝ-Vïhü »P-zB¼-v-¾ÞP-wÞ¼-xÛm-bï-xã-q-Çtä-yâG-GTÛG-»ôh-q-hï-DôP-¾-¾G-dGÅ-±ß¾-hÝ-vh-qÅ-DôP-GÛÅ-¤-¿eôGÅ-®¤-hP-ü¤-IP-®¤-‚ãP-mü Mã-mô¼-zÅGÅ-mÅ-ÅôÅ-h¾-Çkôh-qºÛ-hÝÅ-¤-»ÛmüP-¾-ÇS¼-z¸º-¹-EÛ¤-±P-hP-ü wÞ-¾-¼Þ-z-hP-¤hº-¾-Å-ŸÛP-»ôh-qºÛ-mô¼-zhG-Tm-»Ûm-»P-h-V-mô¼-¤ïh-hzÞ¾-zºÛ-wô-ÉïP-ŸÛG-bà-Hã¼ü

hÝÅ-m¤-ŸÛG-¾-z®m-M¾-M-h¤¼-ºhÛ-hP-ºfz-ºFâG-‚ïh-qºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-ÇKÝG-zÇkh-q-¾Å-GŸm-zŤ-q-GP-»P-¤ïhü TïÅ-G»ô-¸ô¾-Çtä-®¤-¤ïh-q¼-Áôh-qü PÅ-M-G¼-mÅ-fôm-qºÛ-;ô-zºÛ-¿eô-wh-GTÛG-»ôh-q-hï-DôP-¾-ÍÞ-±ßGÅ-ˆÛÅ-¿Ë¤-z¸ô-Vïh-wÞ¾-ŸÛP-ü DôP-ÇÀh-wm-fôGÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-¤Û-ŸÛG-»Ûm-q-ÁïÅ-‚ãP-¾-ZÛm-hï-¿Ëôh-qô¼-zÇkh-hï-JÀô-»Þ¾-zMãh-M-G¼-hÝ-ºIô-¾¤-ŸÛz-q-hP-ü M-G¼-mÅ-ºhÛ-G¼-Zݾ-¤-ÇÀïzÅ-Ť-ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-qÅü DôP-GÛÅ-PºÛ-iÛ-z-hï¼-hô-ÇoP-Vïm-qôÅ-W-ºfÞP-zŸÛm-qºÛ-W-wô¼-ÇeïGÅ-zÞºÛ-fôG-zŸG-Çeïü hôm-hï-PÅ-ˆP-ÇKÝG-mÅ-ÇoP-ºWôG-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-Çtô-zô-μôP-GÛ-Á¼-xôGÅ-¼Û- ï̄¼-¤±m-¤ô-JÀôG-zŸÝºÛ-ºôh-¤hPÅ-¤fôP-z-¤-¸hü M-GŸÝP-GÛ-Mz-xôGÅ-h¤G-ÇK¼-Vïm-qôºÛ-Zï-ºI¤-Çtô-zô-GÅÞ¤-º²ô¤Å-ˆÛ-ƒG-hˆÛ¾-Å-ºôG-bàü M-G¼-Åô-qÅ-Ç~Å-qºÛ-¤Û-zŸÛÅ-zˆG-

Page 129: 14 mount-everest-dingri

107

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü 107

fÞz-®¤-HÛ-ºyâ¾-VÅ-ÁÛG-Zï-ºV¼-M-¤ÛÅ-zbôm-q-P-±ôºÛ-¤ÛÅ-¤fôP-z-hP-ü M-G¼-HÛ-Åô-q-fÞG-qºÛ-¤Û-hïP-hÝÅ-ˆP-D-bÑ-¾ÞP-q¼-»ôhü ºôm-ˆP-zÅôh-h¤m-P-¾-fÞG-¤-‚ãP-ü ŸïÅ-zXôhü

PÅ-h;¼-¤Gôm-¾-xÛÅ-ÅÞ-M-G¼-mÅ-»ôP-qºÛ-¤Û-fÞG-mü P-±ô-ÁÛP-GTôh-q¼-¾ÞP-qºÛ-wÞ¼-»ôP-hGôÅ-qÅ-PïÅ-q¼-ºƒï¾-z-‚ïh-hGôÅüŸïÅ-zÁh-qÅü DôP-GÛÅ-P-¾-»P-¤Û-hï-ºi-fÞG-hGôÅ-»ôh-TïÅ-ÅôGÅ-zÁh-hï-P-GZÛÅ-Åï¤Å-¤fÞm-lôG-D-GTÛG-OÛ¾-HÛ-Gb¤-JÀïP-¾-G»ïP-¤Þ¼ü ZÛ-¤-mÝz-xôGÅ-¾-¯ï¼-ÇeïGÅ-ºVº-¾-Zï-zÅ-DôP-hP-D-HïÅ-mÅ-¾-ZG-mÅ-¤¼-¼Û-ºhzÅ-ÁÛP-mGÅ-ÇeàG-qôºÛ-hzÞÅ-º²â¾-mÅ-zBôhü

uÛ-¾ô- 1966 ¾ô¼-±GÅ-ÁôG-fôG-¼ÛG-GmÅ-Gż-Xï-Vïm-qô-ºGô-z®ßGÅ-ÁÛP-ü h¤ÛGÅ-hôm-mÛ-uÛ-±ôGÅ-fôG-GÛ-¤Û-Pm-hP.ü bP-mP-GÛ-z ô̧-zTôÅ-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ- Û̂-¾¤-¾-ºIô-¤Dm-hzP-º²Ûm-q-¯-¤ïh-z ô̧-Mã-zTÅ-»Ûm-Ç+ô¼-±GÅ-ÁôG-fôG-»P-»P-z;ôhü hPôÅ-GŸÛºÛ-¾Å-hôm-¾-ºWâG-Ç+zÅü »P-ü ±GÅ-ÁôG-fôG-ºDôh-q-¿e¼-bP-hP.ü ¿Ëm-DP-ü ¾Å-DÞPÅ-DG-zTÅ- Û̂-mP-Hïm-¾ôG-hP.ü ¤Z¤-£ï¾-ŸïÅ-xôGÅ-DG-GZÛÅ-z¸ôÅ-bï-¤Û-¤P-n¤Å-ÅÞºÛ-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-º²â¾-¤Ûm-ºhôh-¤ôÅ-¿e¼-VôG-Mã-zXôh-mÅ-h‚ï-º‚ïh-‚Åü

Gż-ºHã¼-zMãh-¾¤-fôG-h¤G-¤Û-hP-z®ôm-q-GZÛÅ-hïºÛ-mP-

Page 130: 14 mount-everest-dingri

108

108 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

º²â¾-MãºÛ-fôz-hzP-¤ïh-qºÛ-Gž-zOGÅ-‚-»Û-ºhÝG-q-¾Åü mP-DÞ¾-»ÛG-V¼-¤Û-Pm-HÛÅ-ºwÞP-h=âGÅ-zÇÀPÅ-mÅ-μÅ-¤hï¾-hP.ü ¤ï-¤hº-ºyôG-¤Dm-‚ãP-m-»P-hI-zô-h¤¼-Xïm-hÝ-¯-z-¤-fôm-z¼ü iG-Gmôm-‚-Mã-¤ïh-q-hP.ü ̄ -z-fôm-¤±¤Å-bP-=âP-h‚P-GÛ-z;º-zŸÛmühP-qôü ºfz-¯ôh-hP.ü GZÛÅ-qü hGG-qü GÅÞ¤-qü zTôÅ-Nå¼-zTÅ-GbôP-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-ºDôhü

Ç+zÅ-hï¼-ym-hP-ü ¤²ô-ÇKôP-z-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞü hÛP-¼Û-Áï¾-h;¼-±ôÅ-Ço-VôÅ-z¸P-ü hq¾-ºz¼-z-¤Vôh-dïm-Dü G®P-ºƒôP-q-;©ü G®P-ºƒôP-q-¾Û-hzP-ü z=Å-¿Ëàm-IÔ-dºÞ-„Àô-z¸P-hq¾-¿km-zTÅ-P-±ô-¼ïÅ-G¸º-ZÛ-¤-dG-bà-Vß-D¼-xÛm-bïü W-zÇ+ô¾-ŸÛP-Vß-zL¾-z-hP-ü OæP-hqï->ÀôG-qü wm-±ßm-BÛh-ÇkÝG-Áôh-q-ÅôGÅ-‚ïh-q-mÅ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-P-±ô-M-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-z®ôm-¼-ºhÛ-mÅ-JÀôh-q-¤Û-ºhÝG-qÅü ±ôGÅ-q-ŸÛG-z®ßGÅ-mÅ-ƒôÅ-MãºÛ-ºV¼-GŸÛ-zbÛPÅ-Mã-‚Å-q-zŸÛmü ¤fº-¤¼-±ôGÅ-q-º²âGÅ-Mã-Gbm-Dï¾-bïü h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-mÛü M-G¼-¾-ƒôÅ-Mã-hP-ü hï-»P-¼P-ÇKï¼-HÛ-zhï-fzÅ-GTÛG-qÞ-¤Ûm-q¼-M-G¼-mÅ-zôh-zBôh-¾¤-Çoï-FÛh-mÅü M-¤Û¼-h¤G-zMG-MãºÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-G®ô-zô¼-zŸG-mÅ-GÁ¤-Gž-n¤Å-ºy¾-hÝ-¾G-Çe¼-‚-Mã-‚Å-q-»Ûmü hP-qôü M-G¼-¾-ºIô-m-Çtô-Vß-G®P-qô-hP-¤ï-bôG-μôP-GÛ-G®P-qô-

Page 131: 14 mount-everest-dingri

109

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü 109

GZÛÅ-PïÅ-q¼-zL¾-hGôÅ-qÅ-¾Å-¤Û-¾ô-GŸôm-n¤Å-¾-A¾-zÇÀz-Mãü GZÛÅ-qü ¤Û-¼ï¼-Çe-¼ï-Vï-VßP-GZÛÅ-hP-¤hÝP-ü IÛ-Vï-VßP-GZÛÅ-¼ï-zTÅ-Gż-z¸ô-‚-Mãü GÅÞ¤-qü ¿UGÅ-Ç+Ýh-hP-¿UGÅ-ÉïP-z¸ô-MãüGôP-Gž-hôm-±m-GÅÞ¤-hï-zOæzÅ-XïÅ-Çe-¼ï-Vï-zÅ-ÁÛP-hݤ-zTh-mÅ-¿UGÅ-ÉïP-hP-¿UGÅ-Ç+Ýh-ˆÛ-Mã-VÅ-Iâ-z¸ôÅ-bïü ÇeôzÅ-ÁÝGÅ-Ÿm-qºÛ-¤Û-n¤Å-G®P-qô-GZÛÅ-¾Å-zO¾-Mã-hP-ü Çe-¼ï-VßP-z-hP-¤hÝP-ü IÛ-Vï-VßP-¼P-ÆâP-GÛ-Gô-¤±ôm-»Ûmü

ym-¾G-VºÛ-ºGô-º²Ûm-HÛÅ-ÁÛP-GTôh-hP-¾¤-z¸ô-z¼-hGôÅ-±ß¾-z;º-z;ôh-zbP-Çeï-¿UGÅ-z¸ô-z-G®P-ºƒôP-q-;©¼-¼Û¤-qÅ-GôP-Gž-Çe-¼ï-Vï-VßP-zŸÛ-zTß-¿ËG-®¤-hP-ü ¤hÝP-ZÛ-ÁÝü IÛ-Åô-IPÅü¿UGÅ-G¸ï¼-Vïm-qô-hô-qô-GÅÞ¤-zTÅ-z¸ôÅ-zTßG-q-hP-ü ¿UGÅ-Ç+Ýh-hô-qô-GZÛÅ-zTÅ-I-OÛG-¾ïGÅ-q¼-GZï¼-z-¤-¸hü ¾Å-¤Û-GŸôm-q-n¤Å-¾-Gô-Ç+zÅ-m¤-ºfôz-¾-Vß-A¾-ÇÀôz-ˆÛ-»ôhü

PºÛ-¾Å-¼ôGÅ-Çtô-Çeôh-zÅôh-m¤Å-±ï-hzP-GÛÅ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-DôP-¼P-ÁÛP-GTôh-q¼-ºIô-Ç+zÅü ¾¤-z¼-hq¾-ºz¼-mÅ-»ôP-zºÛ-ºIâ¾-q-ŸÛG-fÞG-Çeïü hq¾-ºz¼-hP-ÅôG-μôP-ÅôGÅ-ÅÞ-zôh-¤ÛÅ-GŸÛ-M-Vï-zºÛ-Hïm-¾PÅ-‚ïh-±ß¾-ºIâ¾-q-hïÅ-zÁh-q-P-¾-zMãh-zÁh-‚Åü

Page 132: 14 mount-everest-dingri

110

110 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

PºÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-±GÅ-ÁôG-¾Å-ˆP-¼ÛG-Gż-Ç+ô¼-hP-hÝÅ-zz-Gbm-¿ËÛP-¤ïh-qºÛ-Ç+ô¼-ºDôh-qÅü GmÅ-ÇePÅ-²-iG-Wï-Vï¼-ºIô-zºÛ-hÝÅ-z¸P-qô-ºhÛ-hP-zÇeàmü P-±ôºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-Pô-zô-zNå¼-bï-¼Þ-DG-GŸm-hP-ºƒï¾-z-‚Å-mÅ-GŸÛ-M-Vï-®¤-HÛ-±ôGÅ-q-ŸÛG-z®ßGÅ-bïüz®ôm-DP-GÛ-xÛ-¼ô¾-uÛ-±ôGÅ-fôG-GÛ-Hïm-¾ôG-hP-¾G-lP-£ï¾-ŸÛP-GhÝPÅ-ÁÝGÅ-GTÛG-OÛ¾-HÛÅ-M-¤Û¼-h¤¼-º²ÛP-‚Å-mÅü zôh-ˆÛ-M¾-¼zÅ-mP-ºDôh-fÞz-q-ŸÛG-‚ãP-m-TÛ-¤-¼ÞP-lj¤-qºÛ-„Àô-ŸÛG-ºGôG-¤ïh-hÝ-BïÅ-qÅü ¼ïÅ-G¸º-ZÛ-¤-ŸÛG-¾-PÅ-M-¾Å-¾-LÝ-ÁP-hÝ-w-iâG-±ï-¼ÛP-z=-ÁÛÅ-ˆÛ-¤hÝm-zBôh-hGôÅ-±ß¾-hGôPÅ-q-ŸÝÅ-bïü Å-GmÅ-hï¼-GhïPÅ-ºWôG-Vï-zºÛ-ºzÞ¤-fP-hq¾-¿km-¾GÅ-hï-ÇSôm-±ôGÅ-Vïm-Ç+zÅ-ÁÛG-mÅ-Pô-ÁïÅ-qÅ-fÞG-q¼-xÛmü

DôP-hP-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-M-¾Å-ˆÛ-Z¾-DP-GÛ-fôG-ºGïzÅ-zŸÛm-qÅ-P-G¸ÛGÅ-q-hP-GÅô¾-W-¤Vôh-q¼-wïzÅ-ŸïÅ-fôG-mÅ-¤¼-zzÅ-Çeï-P-Z¾-DP-VßP-PÞ-ŸÛG-mP-FÛh-TÛP-ü hÝh-iïG-GÛÅ-±ôÅ-qºÛ-DôG-¿kÛ¼-mP-Vß-ŸÛG-„ÀâGÅ-q-hP-hïºÛ-fôG-W-±Ð-ŸÛG-zbz-Çeïü Å-fz-bà-ÁÛP-GÁôG-GÛ-¤ï-ºÞ¼-ºÞ¼-zbP-Çeï-»Þh-®¤-ŸÛG-¾-zÇ+ô¾-z-hP-ü hP-qô-P-¾-¿UGÅ-wô¼-ŸÛG-mP-W-fP-hÐPÅ-¤-ŸÛG-iPÅ-q-hP-ü hï-mÅ-Å-lݾ-HÛÅ-±ôÅ-qºÛ-¿UGÅ-wô¼-ŸÛG-GÛ-D-xÛÅ-®¤-GmP-mÅ-Dô-¼P-¾-»P-ü W-fP-ŸÛG-

Page 133: 14 mount-everest-dingri

111

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü 111

¿kÝG-GÛm-Ÿ¾-mÅ-GÝP-Fm-bP-GÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-z¸P-qôºÛ-iÛm-HÛÅ-hïP-hÝÅ-P-±ô-zôh-¤Û-n¤Å-¤FÛÅ-q-m-hGôÅ-q-¤Û-ºhÝG-TïÅ-GÅÞPÅ-qÅü PÅ-hôm-dôGÅ-bï-Gh-¤ô-ºVô¼-z-hP-£GÅ-Eïh-±ô¼-ÁÛP-hzô¼-‚ïh-Iâ-VßP-»ôh-q-¤-¸hü ¤ï-bôG-μôP-hP-fG-Zï-zÅ-GÅô¾-W-Æâz-¤-¤Vôh-q¼-wïzÅ-m-ÇezÅ-zhï-ŸïÅ-JÀïP-zÇÀPÅ-qÅü DôP-GÛÅ-Ghm-VßP-ŸÛG-GÛ-fôG-h Û̂¾-=â¤-hÝ-zŸÝGÅ-mÅ-GÅô¾-W-¤Vôh- Û̂m-hï-¿e¼-‚ïh-¤-hGôÅ-q¼-¼ÛG-Gż-ºhÛÅü zôh-¾-ÇezÅ-¾ïGÅ-ˆÛ-¼ï-z-ŸÛG-ºV¼-HÛ-ºhÝG TïÅ-GÅÞPÅ-Ç+zÅ-º±ô-zÅ-¼Ûh-TÛP-f¾-B¼-Hã¼-qºÛ-DôP-GÛ-zŸÛm-¾Å-ˆP-ºGôG-¤ïh-ˆÛ-¼ï-zºÛ-¤²â¤-¤hPÅ-ÁÛG-ºxã¼-»ôP-ü

hï-¿e¼-»Ûm-m-P-±ô-ŸÛP-¼-zMh-¾-zôh-Bôz-OÛG-º²âGÅ-¼ï-z®ßGÅ-m-¾ïGÅ-qô-ºhÝG ºhÛ¼-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-fÞGÅ-ºGm-zŸïÅ-mÅ-z®ßGÅ-fÞz-z¤ü GŸm-n¤Å-¾-ym-HÛÅ-ºƒï¾-z-‚Å-VôG-TïÅ-qºÛ-PºÛ-Ç+h-V-hï-DôP-GÛ-Ç~Å-qºÛ-hGôPÅ-zŸïh-iÛ-ƒ¾-qj¨¼-ZÛ-¸ï¼-ºyôÅ-q-zŸÛmü ǨÛm-¤-ÇeàG-qôºÛ-ºôG-GÛ-um-¸ÞP-Vïm-qô-hï-ym-¾-mm-HÛÅ-G¸ÛGÅ-ÁÛP-ü P-±ô-zôh-¤Û¼-BïÅ-mÅ-BïÅ-Gô-Vôh-q-ŸÛG-PïÅ-q¼-‚-hGôÅü ºhÛ-¿e-zÞ-¤Û-±ï-ÇkÝG-¸h-PP-ºIô-z-¾Å-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-GÅÞPÅ-qºÛ-¾Å-hôm-hïºÛ-Vïh-¼P-ÆôG-hô¼-z¼-P-¾-ºHôh-q-»ï-¤ïh-qÅü ºhÛ¼-PÅ-z®ßGÅ-VôG TïÅ-GhïPÅ-±ôh-hP-¿km-qºÛ-ÇKô-mÅ-Ÿ¾-zŸïÅ-¤²h-q-hP-ü P-GZÛÅ-IôÅ-

Page 134: 14 mount-everest-dingri

112

112 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¤ô¾-‚Å-qºÛ-mP-LÝ-ÁP-hÝ-ºzÞ¤-fP-hq¾-¿km-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-ºGô-ºFÛh-hï-OÛG-GŸÛ-ÅôGÅ-DôP-GÛ-fÞGÅ-hrh-GmP-Mã-hP-ü G®ô-Vï-ÁôÅ-±ôGÅ-qºÛ-GÅP-GmÅ-ÆâP-Bôz-Vïh-¤Û-ÅÞºÛ-¤hÝm-ÇS-mÅ-GÅP-GmÅ-H¼-»P-hïÅ-¼P-ÆôG-hô¼-bïü ÇÀh-¯h-GTôh-‚ïh-»Þ¾-¤ïh-q¼-±ôGÅ-q-»Þm-GmÅ-»ôP-fzÅ-‚ïh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-zŤ-¤fÞm-‚ãP-ü

DôP-hP-¤W¾-z-hïÅ-ym-HÛ-ºhôh-fôG-d-MãG-q-®¤-¤-¸hü ¿ËG-q¼-DôP-GÛ-fÞGÅ-ÇeôzÅ-ˆÛÅ-ym-¾-ÇÀ¼-»P-GÅôm-ÁÝGÅ-Gż-q-ŸÛG-¢Ûm-‚ãP-zÅü hGº-ŸÛP-vô-ŸÛP-¾ôG-Ç+zÅ-@P-qºÛ-ºhïGÅ-ºWôG-ˆP-hÝÅ-Mãm-¾Å-»P-zºÛ-ÇoP-z-ºV¼ü

h-hÝP-mP-GÅïÅ-iâG-q¼-zôh-Bôz-±ôGÅ-q-º²âGÅ-q¼-zdG-hrh-ŸÛz-mm-‚Å-q-zMãhü hïºÛ-DôPÅ-ˆÛ-¾Å-¤Û-zz-¿ËÛP-zdm-GÅÞ¤-¿km-qºÛ- **** ºôÅ-ÁôÅ-ÅÞ-¤fôP-Çeïü P-±ôºÛ-ŸÛP-¼ºÛ-mh-q-Áï¾-h;¼-VôÅ-ÇkïºÛ-IÔ-„Àô-z¸P-¼ÛG-Iô¾-GhôP-VߺÛ-Ǩm-DP-hÝ-Bï¾-z¼-ºIô-Ç+zÅü fzÅ-ˆÛÅ-DôP-GbàGÅ-bï-P-GZÛÅ-IôÅ-¤ô¾-‚Å-q-zMãh-mP-GÅïÅ-iâG-q¼-DôP-GÛÅ-ºGm-zÇo¤Å-qºÛ-zôh-Bôz-±ôGÅ-q-z®ßGÅ-ÁÛP-ü GÅP-GmÅ-ÆâP-Vïh-GôP-GÛ-IôÅ-hôm-hP-GTÛG-¤±ßPÅ-zŤ-¤fÞm-‚ãP-ü

PÅ-h-hÝP-P-±ôºÛ-ŸÛP-¼ºÛ-hq¾-ºz¼-z-VôÅ-zÇem-¤PGÅ-bï-

Page 135: 14 mount-everest-dingri

113

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü 113

ŸÛP-¼-GŸm-¾-»P-zôh-Bôz-±ôGÅ-q-¼ï-z®ßGÅüP-±ôºÛ-¼Þ-DG-zMh-¾-zôh-Bôz-OÛG-º²âGÅ-¼ï-¾ïGÅ-z®ßGÅ-

fÞz-qÅü h-hÝP-z®ôm-DP-GÛ-xÛ-¼ô¾-Å-GmÅ-hï-GºÛ-»Þ¾-¤Û-hP-¾G-lP-£ï¾-hGôÅ-G¾-Vï¼-¤fôP-mÅ-ºôÅ-¤Û-»P-ü Å-GmÅ-hïºÛ-¤Û-¤P-hzÞÅ-ljm-IGÅ-Vï-ŸÛP-M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-ÇkP-¸ÞG-Vï-zºÛ-zôh-ˆÛ-Ǩm-q-;ô-fP-Íï¤-VÛ¼-ºƒï¾-z-‚-fÞz-m-lj¤-Çeïü mh-μâ-zbz-mÅ-M-¾Å-¾-zôh-Ǩm-zÇeïm-xÛ¼-zôh-ˆÛ-Ǩm-q-;ô-fP-±ï-hqG-ż-GbôP-¼ôGÅ-ŸÝÅ-q-zŸÛmü ZÛm-zhÝm-ºIô-Çkôh-‚-MãºÛ-hGôPÅ-ºFô¾-fôz-Çeïü DôP-¯h-GTôh-ˆÛm-;ô-fP-hÝ-xÛm-bï-‚ÛÅ-q-¤P-qô-¯ï-¤ô-¯ïh-»Þ¾-ŸÛG-bà-ÇÀïzÅ-q-hP-ü hïºÛ-hˆÛ¾-HÛ-‚ÛÅ-q-¾ô-zTß-®¤-Åôm-q-ŸÛG-¾-iÛÅ-qÅü ‚ÛÅ-q-hïÅ-¼Û-¿kïzÅ- Û̂-EÛ¤-±P-GÅÞ¤-¾-¤²âz-¤ô-Gbh-hïü Á¼-¤fº-hï-;ô-fP-Íï¤-VÛºÛ-DP-q-¼ïhüTïÅ-Dô-¼P-¤Þ-¤fÞh-‚ÛÅ-q-hï-n¤Å-hP-¤Z¤-¯ïh-¤ô¼-ŸÝGÅü

PÅ-‚ÛÅ-qºÛ-PG-zŸÛm-Á¼-¤fºÛ-DP-qºÛ-ÇKôºÛ-xÛ-mÅ-ºzôh-qÅüÇKïºÞ-DÞP-mÅ-zÞh-¤ïh-¾ô-m-zŸÛ-Tß-®¤-Åôm-q-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-z¿eÅ-bï-»¼-ÁôG-TïÅ-zÁh-q-zŸÛm-DP-qºÛ-mP-º²â¾-Ç+zÅü Ghm-fôG-bà-zÇkh-qºÛ-xã-q-M-Çä̈G-Hôm-ŸÛP-w¼-z¿eÅ-±ôh-¾ô-m-¿S-zTß-®¤-Åôm-qºÛ-¤Û-wô-zz-VGÅ-ÁÛG-GÛÅ-P-¾-GP-mÅ-ºôPÅ-¤Ûm-iÛÅ-‚ãP-zü PÅ-P-¼P-G®P-¾-Çeôh-Áï¾-h;¼-mÅ-»Ûm-q-hP-ü hïP-Ç+zÅ-z®ôm-q-¾Å-¤Û¼-zNå¼-z-ŸÛG-

Page 136: 14 mount-everest-dingri

114

114 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zÁhü hï-ZÛm-m-±-zÇeïm-±ß¾-®¤-‚Å-q-hP-ÅP-ZÛm-hï-mÅ-¼Û¤-qÅ-DôP-»Ûh-VïÅ-qºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-n¤Å-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-Pô-vôh-hP-¼P-ZÛh-ºhÛ¼-m-±-zÇeïm-Vïh-¤-»Ûm-q¼ü zôh-Bôz-±ôGÅ-q-º²âGÅ-q¼-»ôP-±ß¾-DôP-¾-ŸÝÅü

DôP-GÛÅ-ym-ÅôGÅ-¾-z®ôm-DP-mP-»P-ljÛP-ÇeôzÅ-hï-¿e-zÞ-Bïh-q¼-zTôÅ-¤Ûm-¾ïGÅ-GÅôºÛ-zÇSGÅ-zXôh-GmP-z-hP-ü Zï-ÇSôm-DôP-¼P-¾-‚ãP-zºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-n¤Å-GÅÞPÅ-hômü zôh-Ǩm-HÛ-¼ÛG-GŸÝP-mÛ-¤Û-¤P-¾-wm-fôGÅ-È-TP-Vï-zºÛ-ÁÛm-bà-¯-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-¼ïhü ¿ËG-q¼-hïP-Ç+zÅ-@P-q-Ÿ-zô-hP.ü wô-z-mh-GTôP.ü G¸º-Bôm-‚ãP-zºÛ-M-zôh-¤Û-¤P-¾-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-wm-fôGÅ-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-»ôhü hqï¼-mü μôP-ºhÛºÛ-ºGô-FÛh-ˆÛÅ-G®ôÅ-qºÛ-¾Å-‚ïh-mh-q-hÝ-¤-ŸÛG-PºÛ-Ǩm-zTôÅ-ˆÛÅ-iG-Bïh-‚ãP-»P.ü ¾ïGÅ-qºÛ-zÇeôh-zÇSGÅ-®¤-¤ïh-q¼ü mh-q-ºGº-¾-m-±ºÛ-zz-zÇeàm-FG-Gb¼-z¼-¤ÛºÛ-¸ÞPÅ-FG-ºhôm-q-mÛü ¤Û-GÅôh-qºÛ-fzÅ-‚ãÅ-¼ïhü TïÅ-Bôm-zXôh-hP-ºƒï¾-Çtô-zô-v-¤ô-μôP-GÛ-M-¤ÛºÛ-z¸ô-qºÛ-Ǩm-DP-hÝ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-hÝ-zbP-ü

hï¼-Eïh-¼P-¤Û-¤P-GÛ-ŸzÅ-ºhïGÅ-q-ŸÛG-‚-ºhôh-m-uÛ-±ôGÅ-Gż-qºÛ-Ǩm-GŸÝP-ÇÀôz-hGôÅü Eïh-±ôÅ-wm-¤ïh-¸ÞPÅ-FG-Gb¼-zºÛ-±z-¾-GÁG-zTôÅ-hP-ü G¸ÞGÅ-qô¼-¤ï-MG-qºÛ-±z-bà-GÅï¼-Dz-

Page 137: 14 mount-everest-dingri

115

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü 115

zMG-Mã-»ôhü uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-qºÛ-¼ÛG-GŸÝP-iÛ-¤-Tm-hï-Bå¼-mÅ-¼ÛG-GŸÝP-Gż-q-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-‚ïh-hGôÅü Gż-½‰ÛP-zXï-MãºÛ-Vïh-¼ÛG-GmÅ-Gż-zXï-Vïm-¤ô-z®ßGÅ-bï-¼ÛG-GŸÝP-®¤-¤-¸hü f-m-Å-¤ÛP-hP-zTÅ-q-zNå¼-HÛ-¼ïhü Eïh-ˆÛÅ-Nå¼-z-GbôP-¤Ûm-¾m-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-q¼üPÅ-ym-¾-¤±ôm-m-¾ô-P-GÅÞ¤-z¼-uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-qºÛ-mP-º±¼-¾ôPÅ-‚ãP-z-hP.ü uÛ-±ôGÅ-hïºÛ-¼ÛG-GŸÝP->Àh-qºÛ-mP-GbÛP-¼ÛP-qô-¸ÞG-»ôh-qÅüuÛ-±ôGÅ-Gż-qºÛ-¼ÛG-GŸÝP-¢P-Çeï-Nå¼-z;ôh-‚-hGôÅ-GÅÞPÅ-q-mÛ-ym-HÛ-¾ô-mºÛ-zz-hP-zTÅ-ºWôm-Å-¤-¼ïhü hï-zÅ-Ǩm-q-‚-¤-hGôÅ-q¼-¾Å-¤Û-hˆãÅ-¤ºÛ-DôPÅ-ÅÞ-GbôP-¼ôGÅ-ŸÝ-Mã-»Ûm-zXôhü

Dô-q-±ôÅ-Gmh-hôm-hï-fôG-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-º±ôGÅ-mÅ-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-ym-¾-h-z¼-¤Û-¤P-¾-wm-fôGÅ-TßP-¸h-‚Å-q¼-zdïmü h-¼ïÅ-¼P-GmÅ-ÅÞ-¾ôG-Çeï-ÇS¼-zŸÛm-¾Å-hôm-‚-MãºÛ-fôG-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-GP-¤P-GbôP-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-q-zŸÛm-¾ôG-»ôP-z-hP.ü ¼P-ZÛh-h-Ç+zÅ-¼Þ-DG-GÛ-GbôP-¾ïm-ºôG-Ǩm-qºÛ-¾Å-;-‚ïh-¤ÞÅ-ˆP-ü P-±ôºÛ-Å-DÞ¾-hÝ-ÇS¼-zôh-ˆÛ-Ǩm-q-¤P-qô-»ôh-q-ºGº-ÁÅ-h¤¼-GÅôh-zbP-z-hP-ü w¾-Vï-z-z®ôm-¾-º±ßhü hqï¼-mü Çtô-zô-Vß-¤hôºÛ-Ǩm-q-;©-M¾-¤±m-¾-mG-ZïÅ-Gbm-mÅ-¤ïh-ˆP-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-hÝG-GÛÅ-zÅh-qºÛ-ljh-¤ïh-ljh-ºhôGÅ-‚Å-bïü z¸ÞP-Ço-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-z®ôm-

Page 138: 14 mount-everest-dingri

116

116 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ºWâG-MÅ-hrh-¾ô-ZÛ-ÁÝ-zbP-üM-¤ÛºÛ-Ǩm-qÅ-GÁG-zTôÅ-¤-ºIâz-GôP-¤Û-ÁÛ-z-hP.ü VG-

qºÛ-»m-¾G-OÛG-fzÅ-¤-‚Å-q¼-¾¤-ÅïP-GTôh-q-ÅôGÅ-PÅ-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¤ÛG-GÛÅ-¤fôP-‚ãP-ü hï-hG-¾-mG-ZïÅ-ÅÞ-PôÅ-º²Ûm-hGôÅ-ˆP-¯h-GTôh-®¤-¤Û-‚ïh-q¼ü mh-q-ºG¼-P-±ôÅ-¤m-PG-zŸÛm-Ǩm-vh-ˆP-iG-Bïh-¤-‚ãP-z-hÝÅ-¾-zzÅ-bï-ÁÛ-z-¾-»P-ljh-ºhôGÅ-hï-¿e¼-‚ïhü ‚ïh-zz-ºhÛ-¼ÛGÅ-¾-ŸÛz-bà-zŤÅ-m-zôh-ˆÛ-ÁïÅ-¿km-¤Û-Ço-TÛ-»ôh-¯-¤ïh-z¸ôÅ-bï| zôh-hï-»Þm-¼ÛP-Ȥ-¸-‚ïh-qºÛ-Pm-Åï¤Å-zTPÅ-q-Gž-qô-¼ïhü

ºôm-ˆP-M-h¤¼-HÛ-¼ï-z-hï-ºIâz-fzÅ-m¤-»P-¤ïhü zôh-ˆÛ-M¾-¼zÅ-¾ô-MãÅ-fôG-M¾-qô-GZº-FÛ-z®m-qô-mÅ-¼Û¤-zMãhü h-¿eºÛ-&M¾-hzP-Ç+Ý-yïP-zTß-zŸÛ-qºÛ-z¼-HÛ-M¾-¼zÅ-mP-¼P-z®m-»Ûm-qºÛ-Oæz-‚ïh-DÞPÅ-¿km-»ôh-TÛP-ü &GôP-Å-¤VôG-hP-GŸÝP-¤P-zTÅ-qÅ-zôh-hôm-zhïm-fôG-zhïm-Bï¾-ºfz-¯ôh-GmP-¤ÞÅ-¾ü º²¤-JÀÛP-M¾-Dz-¤P-qôÅ-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-GmP-GÛ-»ôh-q-ÅôGÅ-ym-mÅ-¾¤-®¤-fôÅ-‚ãP.ü Ǩm-GŸÝP-hÝü

¼Û-fP-¤±¤Å-ÅÞ-uP-qô-F-¿e¼-hGôÅüüfôG-bà-zz-m-JÀïm-q-¾ÞG-¿e¼-hGôÅüü ŸïÅ-GÅÞPÅ-»ôh-qÅü

P-±ôÅ-ˆP-¼P-z®m-¯ôh-¾ïm-Vïh-zz-¿ËÛP-zdm-GÅÞ¤-ÇKô-mÅ-IâP-qô-‚Å-

Page 139: 14 mount-everest-dingri

117

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü 117

bï-¼P-Dï-GP-¾ôm-‚-hGôÅü ŸïÅ-GÅÞPÅü P-GZÛÅ-wm-±ßm-M¾-Ÿïm-HÛ-zIô-JÀïP-hÝ-¤Å-ZÛm-zhÝm-HÛ-hÝÅ-hï-»Þh-®¤-HÛ-ÇoP-z-ŸÛG-¾-μôGÅ-XïÅ-ym-v-¾ÞP-hÝ-xÛ¼-¾ôG-‚Åü

m¤-Mãm-Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-μôP-mÅ-VôG-¤Vm-vh-qºÛ-ÁÛP-n¤Å-zTh-±¼-XïÅ-P-±ô-;Ý-ÁݺÛ-¾Å-;¼-zbP-GÛ-»ôhü ;Ý-ÁݺÛ-¾Å-;-‚ïh-¤Dm-mP-ÇS¼-Gô-¤Ûm-bP-GÛ-h¤G-hqôm-¤fô-IÅ-¾Å-¤Û-¾ÞºÞ-¶m-Tßh-hP-„Àô-Zï-qô¼-Hã¼-zÅü DôP-GÛÅ-P-¼ôGÅ-q¼-hGôÅ-±ß¾-M-¾Å-¾-¼ï-z-zbôm-mÅ-dG-q¼-P-GZÛÅ-¤Z¤-hÝ-xÛm-mÅ-DôP-zôh-Ç+h-ÁïÅ-qÅ-Vz-ÆÛh-hP-GP-TÛ¼-PÅ-z;º-ºiÛ-ŸÝ-»Û-»ôhü

ZÛm-ŸÛG-M-¾Å- Û̂-DP-q-Gh-zMz-Áݾ-mÅ-P-¾-bP-»ôm-HÛ-zôh-»ÛG-±GÅ-ÁôG-GTÛG-½‰ïh-q-ºEï¼-mÅ-z¿eÅ-qÅü Gô¼-¤ô-hï-M-mG-mÅ-z Û̄Å-qºÛ-¿Ëô-mÝz-¤fº-¤±¤Å- Û̂-Mz-xôGÅ- Û̂-dïm-GŸÛ-G¾-Vï-»Ûm-±ß¾-ºDôh-qü PÅ-hôm-hï-DôP-hP-zIô-JÀïP-‚Å-qÅü DôP-GÛÅ-±GÅ-ÁôG-fôG-ºDôh-q-hï-hPôÅ-zhïm-»Ûm-ŸÛP-Gô¼-¤ôºÛ-Å-V-¤P-Vï-z-‚ï-fP-»Ûm-qÅü Å-ƒâ-zhï-ŸÛP-Å-ºôG-Gô-¤±ôm-ºWôG-Å-¾ïGÅ-qô-ŸÛG-¼ïhü M-mG-mÅ-Gô¼-¤ô-z¼-¼Û-¾ÛºÛ-¾¤-z ô̧Å-±¼-zÅ-XïÅ-IôP-Eï¼-Vïm-qô-VGÅ-ˆÛ-¼ïh-TïÅ-zXôhü

h-hÝP-DôP-GÛÅ-zôh-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-mÛ-‚¤Å-Åï¤Å-Vï-ŸÛP-»-¼zÅ-±ß¾-

Page 140: 14 mount-everest-dingri

118

118 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¿km-ŸÛG-¼ïhü hïP-Ç+zÅ-P-±ô-z®ôm-qºÛ-GmÅ-Ç+zÅ-ºhÛ-¿e-zÞ¼-P-¼P-M-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-»Ûm-»P-M-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-¾Å-zôh-q¼-„Àô-Dï¾-z-ºhÝG zôh-qÅ-GŸm-HÛ-GÅP-z-TÛ-ºi-ŸÛG-ÁïÅ-ˆP-GôP-¾-¾m-¤Û-Bï¾-z-¤-¸hü hï¼-ºGïzÅ-fzÅ-‚ïh-q-hP-ü M-¤ÛÅ-GŸm-HÛ-GÅP-z-ŸÛG-ÁïÅ-±ï-¼P-ZÛh-¾-Gô-»PÅ-ºfôz-MãºÛ-¼ï-Åï¤Å- Û̂Å-fï-±ô¤-®¤-¤ïh-q¼-GôP-¾-¾m-zB¾-zºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-¤P-qô-fôm-Ç+ô¼-hP-ü hïP-¼ÛG-Gż-HÛ-¸P- Û̧P-hP-zÇeàm-zôh-qÅ-fï-GbôGÅ-¯-z-mÅ-‚ïh-Mã-¤ïhü G-¼ï-»Ûm-Ÿï-mü GÁ¤-hÝ-ÁôG-DG-GZÛÅ-»ôh-ˆP-GôP-GÛ-ºGô-ºFÛh-GTÛG-GÛ-ºôG-»Ûm-Aïmü ¤Û-h‚ï-º‚ïh-®¤-¾Å-P-±ô¼-hôm-hPôÅ-wm-fôGÅ-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü

uÛ-¾ô- 1967 ¾ôºÛ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-P-¼P-ÁÛP-GTôh-q¼-»Ûm-±ß¾-¾ÞP-qºÛ-wÞ¼-IôGÅ-qô-h;¼-¤Gôm-fÞG-q¼-xÛmü

DôP-GÛÅ-GÅÞPÅ-Gžü ºhÛ-¾ô¼-v-©ôG-DÞ¾-HÛ-Hïm-¾ôG-ÁôG-DG-GÛ-»ÛG-Vïm-±GÅ-q¼-fôG-¤ºôºÛ-¤ÛP-»ÛG-VßP-GÛÅ-ƒÛÅ-q-hP.ü GôP-ºôG-º²ô¾-mÅ-ƒÛÅ-q-Mã-¤±m-hÝ-‚Å-bïü ¤Û-¤P-mP-ºG¾-¹-Vïh-hÝ-z ô̧Å-mÅ-ÁôG-DG-GZÛÅ-ºfz- ô̄h-nô-P¼-Wï-VïÅ-lô-hP-h‚ãG-qü IÛ-¤hÝP-¾-ÅôGÅ-zïh-uh-mÅ-wm-±ßm-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¾G-º²ÛP-‚Å-q-hP-ü zôh-hP-M-mG-M¾-»ôPÅ-ÅÞ-»P-ºfz-¯ôh-Wï-VïÅ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-ºIô-¤±¤Å-Vh-TÛP-ü ÁôG-DG-GZÛÅ-mP-DÞ¾-ºfz-¯ôh-‚Å-bï-¤ï-¤hº-hP.ü ¾G-

Page 141: 14 mount-everest-dingri

119

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü 119

ºzô¤-ºwïm-¼ïÅ-‚Å-mÅ-¤Û-GÅôh-FG-¢ô¼-hÝ-¤-‚ïh-zŸÛm-»ôhü h-GÝP-Fm-bP-ºVÛ-DºÛ-ºwG-º±G-»Ûm-q-ºiü ŸïÅ-w¾-Vï¼-¼P-ZÛh-¾-M¾-D-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-ºfôz-Zï-z-¿e-zÞºÛ-n¤-ºHã¼-Çeôm-zŸÛmü »P-hGº-zºÛ-n¤-ºHã¼-hï-JÀô-zÞ¼-»¾-mÅ-Åï¤Å-w¤-hP-zTÅ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-GÅÞPÅ-hômüÇezÅ-¤-¾ïGÅ-q¼-zôh-Eôm-»ôPÅ-ÅÞºP-ÆâP-h¤G-h¤¼-qôÅ-hGôm-Çkï-¿Ë-DP-hP.ü „À-ƒP-ü ¤Û-¤P-GÛ-EÛ¤-ÅôGÅ-ÅÞ-M¾-zºÛ-Ç+Ý-GÅÞP-fÞGÅ-dïm-GP-m-WÛ-»ôh-n¤Å-hP.ü ÇS-¼zÅ-zôh-ˆÛ-¯-VïºÛ-¼ÛG-GŸÝP-DG-¯-¤ïh-z ô̧-z-hP-ü f-m-Hôm-VÅ-h¤¼-qôºÛ-¼ÛGÅ-¤ï¼-zÆïGÅ-q-hP-ü Lm-GŸôm-h‚ï¼-¤ïh-z®m-Áïh-ˆÛÅ-C-zTh-qü ÇS¼-Æô¾-HÛ-Mm-V-G»Þ-‚ã¼üGÅï¼-hPÞ¾-zTÅ-¯-¤ïh-z ô̧-zºÛ-Fï¾-¤ïh-¾ÞGÅ-¤ïh- Û̂-¾Å-ºGݾ-Çtï¾-hP-Çtï¾-¤ÞÅ-¼ïhü TïÅ-GÅÞPÅü

PÅ-DôP-¾-¤Þ-¤fÞh-uÛ-±ôGÅ-fôG-Z¤Å-ŸÛz-hP-ü ¿ËG-q¼-M-G¼-mÅ-»ôP-qºÛ-Åô-q-¤fôP-fôÅ-‚ãP-m-¾¤-ÅïP-¾m-ºyôh-fzÅ-GmP-¼ôGÅü¤Þm-mG-h Û̂¾-mÅ-ºôh- ï̧¼-HÛ-¤hÝm-¾¤-º±ô¾-Vïh-hÝÅ-¾-zz-m-P-±ô-fÞm-¤ôP-GÛ-‚-z-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-zOæz-zôü ŸïÅ-ŸÝÅ-bï-¾ôG-»ôP-ü

zôh-¿YôPÅ-ZÛm-¼ïºÛ-±GÅ-q¼-¾Å-ˆP-GTÛG-¤WâG-GZÛÅ-¤fÞh-ˆÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-fôm-Gžü h¤¼-ÁôG-GÝP-Fm-bP-hzÞÅ-Mãm-¾Å-mÅ-z;º-zbP-Çeïü bP-»ôm-FÛ-ZÛÅ-ÇeôP-zMh-zM-mÅ-iG-IÅ-n¤Å-

Page 142: 14 mount-everest-dingri

120

120 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ˆÛÅ-ÆâP-h¤G-h¤¼-qôºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-Gż-q-Å-GmÅ-GP-ż-z¸ôÅ-q-hP-ü OÛG-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-¤ÛP-¾-¤ºô-=âºÞ-ŸÛ-Ç+Ý-Pô-¤Å-Ç+ݾ-ÇÀôP-GmP-zºÛ-h¤¼-ÆâP-h¤G-hqº-zô-VßP-VßP-ŸïÅ-¤ÛP-zbGÅü

IôGÅ-qô-h;¼-¤Gôm-HÛÅ-GÅÞPÅ-q-zŸÛm-ÆâP-h¤G-h¤¼-qôÅ-Gôh-VGÅ-hï-¿e¼-GbôP-zŸÛm-»P-ü h-hÝP-±GÅ-ÁôG-bà-¼ÛG-GmÅ-Gż-zXïºÛ-M¾-D-½ÀzÅ-Vïm-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-»P-»P-zÇeôh-zÇSGÅ-hP-ü zôh-ˆÛ-hq¾-ºz¼-μôP-hP.ü ¼Û-zô-Vï-μôP.ü ÇeïP-Vïm-μôP.ü ºƒÛ-¼Þ-μôP.ü ÅôG-μôP-zTÅ-μôP-¿SºÛ-zôh-¼ÛGÅ-n¤Å-¾G-GhP-GTÛG-£ï¾-HÛÅ-Hïm-¾ôG-‚Å-q¼-Mã-¤±m-»ôhü TïÅ-¢¼-»ÛG-¤P-qô-z=¤Å-mÅ-¾Å-ºGݾ-Çtï¾-Ç+ô¼-hP-ü M¾-ÆÛh-uÛ-Ez-DP-GÛÅ-h¤G-hôm-ÍÞ-»ôm-¿Ëm-DP-GÛ-Ç+Ý-±z-¤ïh-m-¾Å-hôm-‚Å-¤Û-VôG-qºÛ-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-‚Å-»ôh-qÅü ¾Å-DÞPÅ-±P-¤ºÛ-mP-h¤G-hôm-Ç+Ý-±z-¼ï-ÇÀïzÅ-bïü ¾Å-DÞPÅ-DG-¾-G®P-zÁï¼-HÛ-¾Å-ºGݾ-Çtï¾-mÅ-¾ïºÞ-ɺô-VÛºÛ-MãG-EÛ-n¤Å-¾-ºfz-º²ÛP-zbP-Ç+ô¼-ºDôhü

±GÅ-ÁôG-fôG-z;ôh-qºÛ-ºfz-̄ ôh-‚ïh-»Þ¾-n¤Å-mÅ-P-¾-xôGÅ-zÇkô¤Å-ºhÛ-ºi-ŸÛG-½‰ïh-‚ãP-z-mÛü ÇS¼-Gô-¤Ûm-bP-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-GÛ-¤Û-hP-ü DôP-±ôºÛ-zÞ-yâG-ÁïÅ-»ôm-Tm-hÝ-Hã¼-mÅ-¾Å-DÞPÅ-DG-¾-»ôh-q-n¤Å-hP-ü zôh-ˆÛ-Gô-¤ÛP-»ôh-qºÛ-¤Û-Çoü GŸÝP-Mã-¿+ôG-¸-‚Å-qü

Page 143: 14 mount-everest-dingri

121

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü 121

zÞh-¤ïh-¾-¾ôG-G»ï¤-‚Å-q-n¤Å-iG-qôºÛ-ºfz-¯ôh-GbôP-»Þ¾-¼ïhüfïPÅ-ÁÛG-¾ïºÞ-ɺô-VÛ-Gbô¼-w¤-GbôP-±ß¾-Gb¤-zXôh-¹ôÅ-G¼-

ŸÛG-¾-P-±ô-z®m-Áïh-ˆÛÅ-FÛh-hïü Gb¤-zXôh-HÛ-¤WâG-¾ïºÞ-ɺô-VÛ¼-¤ï-¤hº-ºwPÅ-mÅ-zÅh-q-hP-ü VzÅ-TÛG-M-¾Å-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-ym-±ô¼-hôm-¤ïh-ZïÅ-lÝP-±zÅ-Vï-zbP-ü

uÛ-±ôGÅ-fôG-¤Û-Ço-ºG¼-iG-qôºÛ-ºfz- ô̄h-GbôP-z-hP-ü VzÅ-TÛG-P-±ô-z®ôm-q¼-»P-±ôGÅ-ºhݺÛ-ż-¾ô-ºDô¼-¤WâG-zÇkô¤Å-Ç+zÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚Å-qºÛ-»ÛG-V->ÀôG-mÅ-ºƒÛ-¼Þ-h¼-MÅ-hP.ü M-¼ÛGÅ-Å-fÛG-q-¾ô-=P-ü ;ôP-qô-zÅôh-m¤Å-±ï-¼ÛP-zTÅ-GÅÞ¤-¾Å-‚ïh-q-¤Û-¿SÅ-fG-qÅ-¼ô-¿e¼-zÇk¤Å-ÁÛP-ü ¤P-±ôGÅ-¾-D-Gbh-zTßG-mÅ-h¤G-hôm-Ç+Ý-±z-ˆÛÅ-P-±ôºÛ-¤hÝm-m-»ôh-qºÛ-¤Û-Pm-ºhÛ-GÅÞ¤-ºVÛ-D¼-ºwG-º±G-MG-¤Dm-bP-hP-¤Û-¤P-GÛ-hI-zô-Á-ÇeG-¼ïhü h-mÅ-z¸ÞP-zÇÀz-‚-„ÀPÅ-mÅ-ÇkÝG-½‰ÛP-ÁÝz-bà-zTßG-Çeï-Èà¼-z ô̄m-‚Å-m-¤hÝm-¾¤-»ôh-TÛP-ühï-¾Å-¿kôG-Çeï->Àh-½‰ÛP-¤FïGÅ-º²Ûm-HÛÅ-xÛ-M¾-hÝ-»ôh-qºÛ-bØ-¾ºÛ-¼Þ-±ôGÅ-¾-¼ï-z-hP.ü „Àô-Gbh-m-hïºÛ-Pm-ºƒÅ-Eïh-±ô-ºVÛ-Mã-hP.ü z®ôm-DP-hÝ-ºhÝG-Mã-¤-GbôGÅ-¤ïhü TïÅ-zÁhü

ZÛm-ŸÛG-P-±ô-¤Û-zTô-¿S-¼Û-¾-ÁÛP-GTôh-q¼-º²ïGÅ-Ç+zÅ-d-q-GTÛG-¼Û-¿kïzÅ-mÅ-¤¼-zzÅ-q-hP-fÞG-‚ãP-zü P-±ôÅ-G-mÅ-»Ûm-

Page 144: 14 mount-everest-dingri

122

122 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¤Ûm-hP-ü ¾ÞP-q¼-hÝÅ-zhï-Ÿôh-ºWGÅ-»ôh-h¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-q¼-¤Û-hïÅ-P-hq¾-ºz¼-mÅ-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ü P-±ôºÛ-»Þ¾-¤Û-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-M-¤Û-¯-¤ïh-z¸ô-MãºÛ-h¤-zTº-zŸG-mÅ-h¤G-Vï-VßP-hÝ-¤-zMz-TÛP-ü TßP-G¸ïPÅ-ÅÞ-fôm-q-mÛ-zÞh-¤ïh-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-ÇSôm-Í-¼ÛºÛ-Gm¤-IâÅ-h‚ãGÅ-qºÛ-¤ï-¤hº-Zï¼-zŸÛ-Ç~Å-»ôh-q-zbôm-mÅ-»Þ¾-h¤G-¾-¤Dô-vôh-‚Å-q-hP-ü M-h¤G-»ÛP-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-»ôP-GÛ-»ôh-q-ÁïÅ-q-hP-ÇezÅ-zÇeàm-¤ï-¤hº-zTß-GZÛÅ-¼ï-»Þ¾-h¤G-±ô-DG-GZÛÅ-¾-zGôÅ-bï-ºyP-GÛ-¤Gô-¤WâG-mÅ-zTß¼-lÝP-zbP-zÅü M-h¤G-n¤Å-G-‚ïh-ºhÛ-‚ïh-¤ïh-qºÛ-fôG-xïh-®¤-¤ï-¤hºÛ-ºôG-ÁÛ-z-hP-hï-ºyôh-¾¤-GP-fôz-ƒôÅ-q-hP-ü ºGÅ-¤ï-¤hº-ºwïm-»P-»Þ¾-h¤G-‚ÛPÅ-ˆÛÅ-¼Û-ÇeïP-mÅ-¾G-GÛÅ-z¸ôÅ-qºÛ-¿UGÅ-=ÛP-GÛ-ºzô¤-h‚ãGÅ-mÅ-GTÛG-ˆP-¤ïh-q-¯-¤ïh-z¸ôÅ-±ß¾-zTÅ-zÁh-‚ãP-ü

P-±ô¼-fÞG-qºÛ-¤Û-hï-®¤-¤Ûm-q¼-¤Û-GŸm-¾-»P-ÇS-xÛ¼-d-q-hï-ºi-fïPÅ-ºGº-fÞG-mÅü zôh-‚P-GÛ-hqº-zô-n¤Å-ˆÛ-¤²h-XïÅ-zŸG-Ç+ô¼-GmÅ-±ß¾-GP-MÅ-zÁh-ˆÛ-»ôh-qÅü ym-HÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-¤Û-GTÛG-hq¾-ºz¼-hÝ-ºƒï¾-z-‚ïh-q¼-GbP-m-¾G-q-ºVP-Å-ŸÛG-¼G-q-ºhÝG-lj¤-»P-ü ¾Å-hôm-hï-mÛ-zŤÅ-GŸÛGÅ-mm-bm-‚ïh-hGôÅ-q-ŸÛG-»Ûm-Aïmü ŸÛz-yºÛ-Gmh-hôm-fh-PÅ-ZÛm-¸Å-ˆÛ-zTßh-

Page 145: 14 mount-everest-dingri

123

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü 123

hP-¤±m-HÛ-GZÛh-fïzÅ-zTGÅ-mÅ-ZÛm-ÁÅü zŤ-„Àô-zÇeàh-¤¼-zbP-¤f¼-P-¾-¤Û-ŸÛG-½‰ïhü

¤Û-hï-mÛ-ÇSôm-P-±ô-G®P-mÅ-Pô¤-fô¼-º‚ô¼-mÅ-hï¼-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-¾-Mz-ˆÛ-hq¾-ºz¼-hÝ-xãGÅ-μÛ¼-zBôh-¥ôP-ŸÛP-ü xÛ-±ß¾-¿+ÝGÅ-dGÅ-±-¾-mP-Åï¤Å-IâP-zºÛ-;Ý-ÁݺÛ-ŸÛP-¼-ÆâP-¤Dm-M¾-¯ïºÛ-IÔ-Í-DôG-ÁïÅ-¼z-z¸P-qô-¼ïhü DôP-¾-¾Å-zÅôh-hï-¿e¼-‚ãP-z-»P-DôP-GÛ-xÛ-±ß¾-GTÛG-qÞ-¼ïhü

PÅ-z¼-ÅïP-ŸÛG-GÛ-Ç+zÅ-;Ý-ÁݺÛ-ŸÛP-¼ºÛ-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-D-xôGÅ-zNå¼-ŸÛP-±P-±ÛP-GÛ-mGÅ-±¾-ÇeàG-qô-zMãhü Åï¼-Vïm-ZÛ-¤-mÝz-¼Û¼-ÇeïGÅ-ÅÞ-ºVº-¤-fG-»Ûm-q-hP-ü ŸÛP-¼ºÛ-;Ý-ÁݺÛ-ÇkôP-qô-n¤Å-¾Å-ºGº-ÇÛ̈m-q-hP-ºGº-¤-ÇÛ̈m-qºÛ-ºƒÅ-zÞ-ºxP-ºyâ¾-hÝ-zbGÅ-»ôh-TÛP-ü mÝz-xôGÅ- Û̂-ZÛ-ºôh-¾Å-;Ý-ÁÝ-ºôh-º±ï¼-z-ŸÛG-ºfÞ-mÅ-z¸Å-bï-P¾-zºÛ-¾ÞÅ-Û̂-Ç+ô¤-q-Åï¾ü ŸÛP-¤Gô-hï¼-GTÛG-qÞ¼-»ôh-qºÛ-DP-GTÛG-¤-hï¼-GhôP-Gbh-hï-zBôh-¤Þ¼ü ¤Û-ŸÛG-mG-»ô¼-»ô¼-fôG-ÇeïP-mÅ-±ß¼-MP-¿e-‚ïhüfG-Zï¼-ÇÀïzÅ-q-hP-fôG-ÇeïP-GÛ-Í-DôG-ÁïÅ-¼z-z¸P-qôÅ-Í-Tô-PG-hzP-xG-wïzÅ-GmP-ü ŸïÅ-¤¼-zzÅ-mÅ-P-mP-hÝ-zÅÞÅü

Å-fz-ˆÛ-mP-¤ï-h¤¼-¿Ëï¤-¿Ëï¤-ºz¼-z-¤fôP-Mã-¤ïh-ˆP-»Þ-z¼-¼Å-º²¼-h=ÛÅ-ÁÛP-ü Iôh-DôG-lÛz-qºÛ-DôG-¿kÛ¼-ŸÛG-zŸG-»ôh-q-hï-

Page 146: 14 mount-everest-dingri

124

124 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

mÅ-¿UGÅ-wô¼-mG-qô-ŸÛG-GÛ-mP-W-fP-„ÀâGÅ-ÁÛP-ü Pïh-¾-¾¤-ÅïP-ºfÞP-hP-±-qô-¼P-¤ïh-TïÅ-Áôh-ˆÛmü Dô-¼P-W-wô¼-q-GP-Èàz-ºfÞP-‚Åü hï-mÅ-PºÛ-¤hÝm-;Ý-ÁÝ-@P-ºGº-zŸG-Çeï-¸ô-hP-ŸïÅ-zXôhü P-GZÛÅ-º±ô-z-hP-¾Å-;ºÛ-Ç+ô¼-ºiÛ-Ç+zÅ-PÅ-DôP-¾-ÇSôm-¤-xãGÅ-¼ÛGÅ-º±ô-z-hP-;Ý-ÁÝ-ÆâP-Mã-GZÛÅ-GP-ŸÛG-¾Å-ÇÀ-º¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-qÅü P-±ôºÛ-mP-mÅ-P-¼P-¾Å-zÅôh-Vï-zÅ-xãG-hP-ŸÛP-¼-ÆâP-z-GZÛÅ-;-Eïh-±ôºÛ-¾Å-;-hP-zÇkݼ-m-¾Å-ÇÀ-qô-¼ïhü hôm-hPôÅ-Eïh-±ôÅ-h;º-¾Å-¥PÅ-ÅôüŸïÅ-GhÝPÅ-Åï¤Å-Vï-zºÛ-Ç+h-V-Áôh-ˆÛm-¤ÛG-¸Þ¤-®¤-PP-¤Gô-zô-¾m-ºGº-yïh-hÝ-G»ÞGÅü

PÅ-¾Å-hôm-ŸÛG-GÛ-Vïh-Eïh-¼P-hq¾-ºz¼-¾-ºIô-º¤-ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-qÅü Í-Tô-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-P-¾-Pm-qºÛ-¾Å-zÇ+ݾ-HÛ-¤-¼ïh-ˆP-hôm-GP-»Ûm-m¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-‚ãP-zü PÅ-¼ÛG-Gż-HÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-GP-ÁïÅ-hP-ü M-G¼-hÝ-»ôh-qºÛ-&GôP-Å-¤VôG-hP-P-±ôºÛ-GŸÝP-¾-Mz-hqÞP-zTô¾-mÅ-Hïm-¾PÅ-¼Þ-DG-GTÛG-º²âGÅ-ºV¼-»ôh-qÅü hq¾-ºz¼-hÝ-ºƒï¾-z-‚ïh-¤Dm-Eïh-¾Å-ºôÅ-¤ïh-±ß¾-zÁhü

DôP-GÛÅ-Åï¤Å-fG-Vôh-qôÅ-Í-Tô-¼P-„Àô-zhï-qô-HÛÅü ¾Å-;-hï-mÛ-PÅ-zOæz-ºôÅ-q-hP-Oæz-q¼-h;º-P¾-TÛ-»P-¤fôP-GÛ-¤Û-ºhÝGTïÅ-hGº-ŸÛP-vô-zŸÛm-DÅ-„ÀPÅ-q-zŸÛmü PÅ-hq¾-ºz¼-hÝ-¥ã¼-

Page 147: 14 mount-everest-dingri

125

Hïm-¾PÅ-±ôGÅ-qü 125

z¼-zBôh-mÅ-Hïm-¾ôG-GÛ-ºGô-ºFÛh-G®ô-zô-GbàGÅ-mÅ-P-±ô¼-Gô-¤±ôm-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-»ôP-fzÅ-‚ïh-hGôÅü Gô-¤±ôm-vh-Mã-DÅ-„ÀP-±ï-ºhÛ-vôh-TïÅ-P-±ô-z®ôm-DP-ÍP-GZÛÅ-qºÛ-¾Å-¤Û-»Ûm-q-hP-ü P-±ô-M-Lô¾-ÇeôzÅ-ÁÝGÅ-VÛG-OÛ¾-Vïh-Gô-¤±ôm-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-»ôP-zü ŸïÅ-ºDôh-qºÛ-PôÅ-¢ô¼-»Û-Gï-ŸÛG-zÇ+ݼü

ym-HÛ-zŤ-±ôh-¿e¼-Í-DôG-hq¾-ºz¼-¾-zBôh-mÅ-ZÛm-ÁÅ-mÅ-DôP-GÛ-DP-q-ÇeôP-q-»Ûm-qü M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-GŸÛ-mÅ-ÁïÅ-bï-¯h-zTh-ˆP-XïÅ-Áݾ-®¤-¤ïh-qÅ-Vß¼-¿UïzÅ-q¼-fG-zThü

Page 148: 14 mount-everest-dingri

126

126 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

hGÝ-qü

GÅP-z-ÆâP-Vïh-hqº-zô-hGÝ-¼P-ÆôG-hô¼-zü

(1968-1970)

¤Þ-¤fÞh-¼ÛG-Gż-HÛ-¾Å-ºGݾ-hÝ-¤-ŸÛG-VߺÛ-GZï¼-¤-¿e¼-GTÛG-ºWGÅ-qºÛ-XïÅ-hï-¤-fG-GTÛG-¾PÅ-bïü ŸÛP-¼-DG-¾-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-vôh-ºGô-±ßGÅ-mÅ-Èà¼-z®ôm-Tm-HÛÅ-¼P-GÛ-ÇoP-z-¤-hG-qºÛ-¤Û-Ço¼-G¸ÞGÅ-¤ïh-IÛz-z¸ôÅ-mG-ZïÅ-z®ßGÅ-q¼ü ¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-Pm-qºÛ-Mz-¾PÅ-Pm-q-‚Å-bï-¤-‚Å-‚Å-±ß¾-hP-ü ¤-zXôh-zXôh-±ß¾-HÛÅ-h=ôG-Gb¤-Vïh-z¸ôÅ-‚Å-q¼-zdïmü zôh-¼ÛGÅ-mP-DÞ¾-GTÛG-„Àô-GTÛG-¾-¤-ºDï¾-z-z¸ôÅ-q-hqï¼-mü z;º-„Àôm-„À-¤-zÇem-q-ºW¤-h‚PÅ-ˆÛ-G Û̧¤-hqôm-hôm-Iâz-±ï-¼ÛP-¾-z®ôm-FÛ¤Å-¤-ºDÞ¼-zºÛ-ZïÅ-qÅ-¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-iG-qôºÛ-ºfz-¯ôh-zbP-ŸÛP-ü Eïh-±ôÅ-zôh-hôm-h=ôGÅ-Gb¤-Vïh-

Page 149: 14 mount-everest-dingri

127

GÅP-z-ÆâP-Vïh-hqº-zô-hGÝ-¼P-ÆôG-hô¼-zü 127

hÝ-z¸ôÅ-q-n¤Å-Pm-¼ôGÅ-GŸm-HÛÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-Gž-qô-ŸÝÅ-qÅü Eïh-¼P-»P-PôÅ-¾ïm-¤-‚Å-m-Iâz-ºƒÅ-¤Û-¾ïGÅ-±ß¾-zÁh-q¼ü hôm-Iâz-±ï-¼ÛP-GÛÅ-P-±ô¼-Mz-hqÞP-zTô¾-»Þ¾-zôh-ˆÛ-»Þ¾-H¼-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-»ôh-q¼-zdïmü M-mG-M¾-»ôPÅ-ÅÞ-¾ïºÞ-ɺô-VÛºÛ-z¸ô-zTôÅ-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-qÅ-ºfz-¯ôh-‚ïh-qºÛ-ÁôG-DG-GZÛÅ-ºG¾-¹-Wï-Vï¼-ºIô-z-hP-ü Zï-Å-v-©ôG-bà-»P-ÁôG-DG-GZÛÅ-¼ÛG-GmÅ-Gż-zXïºÛ-fôG-iG-qôºÛ-ºfz- ô̄h-‚ïh-zŸÛm-qÅü mP-DÞ¾-ºG¾-¹-ºhÛ-hP-zÇeàm-zôh-hôm-¾-¼ï-z-Gż-q-ŸÛG-ºV¼-‚ãP-ü ŸïÅ-zXôhü

z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ- Û̂Å-Zïm-qºÛ-GTm-G¸m-Á-¾-Q¤Å-q-¿e¼-¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-h-hÝP-¾G-q-ºVP-Å-ŸÛG-¼G-Vïhü hï-®¤-¤-¸hü Eïh-±ôÅ-uÛ-±ôGÅ-fôG-GÛ-Hïm-¾ôG-q-n¤Å-hP-¾G-GhP-GTÛG-£ï¾-HÛÅ-Hïm-¾ôG-‚-MãºÛ-ºV¼-GŸÛÅ-mP-DÞ¾-±ôGÅ-q-ŸÛG-z®ßGÅ-»ôh-q-¼ïhü TïÅ-zXôh-qºÛ-¾m-hÝü hôm-Iâz-±ï-¼ÛP-GÛÅ-z®ôm-¼ºÛ-xÛºÛ-v-¤ôºÛ-uÛ-±ôGÅ-ˆÛ-ºfz-¯ôh-Ç+ô¼-ºzÞ¤-fP-hq¾-¿km-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-GÅÞPÅ-®¤-¾Åü mP-DÞ¾-OÛG-º²âGÅ-z¸ôÅ-q-ÅôGÅ-GP-»P-‚Å-¤ïh-TïÅ-xÛ¼-¾m-zbzü

M-¾Å- Û̂Å-ºzÞ¤-fP-iâP-»ÛG-Vïm-¤ôºÛ-ŸzÅ-ŸÝ-hq¾-¿km-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-GÛÅ-iÛ-z-¾ïm-ºGô-±ßGÅ-Ç+zÅü DôP-GÛÅ-zŤ-„Àô-GbôP-MãºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-GmP-¼ôGÅ-zXôh-q-zŸÛmü ¾G-¿UGÅ-zMz-mÅ-ZÛm-GTÛG-

Page 150: 14 mount-everest-dingri

128

128 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¼ÛP-zŤ-„Àô-GbôP-MãºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-vhüºzÞ¤-fP-hq¾-¿km-HÛÅ-hï-ÇSôm-¼P-ZÛh-hP-ÇKï¼-G»ôG-GTÛG-

q-hP-ü ºiÛÅ-GÁÛz-ÁÛm-bà-Vï-zºÛ-z;º-„Àôm-„À-¤-zÇem-q-ºW¤-h‚PÅ-ˆÛ-G¸Û¤-hqôm-hôm-Iâz-±ï-¼ÛP-¾ü z®ôm-¼ºÛ-xÛºÛ-v-©ôG-GÛ-¤Û-¤P-mP-ºFâG-Ç+ô¼-GÅÞPÅ-q-hPôÅ-zhïm-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ü ¿ËG-q¼-DôP-GÛÅ-ºGm-zŸïÅ-qºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-hï-z®ôm-q-hP-ü z®ôm-DP-GÛ-¼-z-¾Å-M-Bïh-hï-xÛ-¼ô¾-uÛ-±ôGÅ-fôG-ºƒï¾-z-GbÛP-¸z-»ôh-ÇezÅü GhÝG-¯çz-Vï-zºÛ-¤m¼-GTôh-iG-qôÅ-hzP-¤ïh-ljÛP-Gb¤-xÛ¼-ºhôm-‚-hGôÅ-H¼-±ïü hôm-¤ïh-M¾-GTïÅ-ˆÛ-¤Û-Ço-¤P-qô-ŸÛG-GÛ-ÆôG-„ÀôÅ-GbôP-hGôÅ-q-¤-¸hü ½ÀzÅ-Vïm-HÛ-¾Å-hôm-Oæz-fzÅ-ƒ¾-zÅ-fÞGÅ-„Àô-M-Bïh-hï-¤fº-¤ºÛ-¾¤-Çeï-DôP-hP-ü DôP-hP-ºƒï¾-¸z-Vï-zºÛ-¤Û-zMh-Vß¼-¤VôPÅ-mÅ-Ç+Ý-ÆôG-„ÀôÅ-zbP-Çeï-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-¾G-q-ºVP-źÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-hïºÛ-DÞPÅ-Çoï-z½ÀGÅü

M¾-GTïÅ-hqº-zôºÛ-¤VôG-Hã¼-ºzÞ¤-fP-hq¾-¿km-¾GÅ- Û̂Å-hzÞÅ-¤Û-hGÝ-¼P-ÆôG-hô¼-z-hï¼ü P-±ô-z®ôm-q-n¤Å-ÁÛm-bà-„Àô-w¤-Vï-ŸÛP-ü hôm-Iâz-±ï-¼ÛP-¾ô-GTÛG-z®ôm-ºWâG-‚Å-mÅ-mG-ZïÅ-¤²âz-¤ô-z®ßGÅ-Å-¤ïh-Aïm-z¸ÞP-Ço-z®ôm-DP-¾-zbP-ü

¾ô-hï-GºÛ-hGÝm-¹- 12 ¾-h‚¼-hÝÅ-ŸÛP-¼¼-Zïm-D-z¸ô-zºÛ-

Page 151: 14 mount-everest-dingri

129

GÅP-z-ÆâP-Vïh-hqº-zô-hGÝ-¼P-ÆôG-hô¼-zü 129

Çtô-Vß¼-¼GÅ-zMz-zTßG-mÅ-È-TP-IP-P¼-Vï-z-ǨôÅ-¤ïh-fôG Vß-mP-mÅ-fôm-Ç+zÅ-@P-¤fÛ¾-¾-lô-lïºÞ-ºEGÅ-º‚¼-‚ïh-q-ÅôGÅ-ºEG-¤m¼-ÁÛm-bà-Vï-ŸÛP-ü ¼GÅ-MG-»Þ¾-ºV¼-GŸÛ-Gbm-Dï¾-¤ïh-q¼-»¼-ÇtôÅ-¤¼-ÇtôÅ-‚Å-bï-¤Û-¤P-¾-ÇkÝG-¸h-GbôP-z¼ü ym-±ôÅ-¾Å-‚ïh-q¼-¼GÅ-zdm-Å-ŸÛG-bà-MG-hGôÅ-zÁh-ˆP-M-¼ÛGÅ-¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-Zm-Åï¤Å-®¤-¤ïh-q¼ü Eôh-±ô-zôh-¼ÛGÅ-¸-Mã-¾Å-GŸm-¤Û-ÁïÅ-qºÛ-¿+ÝGÅ-q-¼ïhü TïÅ-¾m-zbz-qü Ç+zÅ-hï¼-ym-HÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-hï-ÇSôm-¼P-GŸÝP-hGº-¿km-wô-ƒP-qºÛ-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-Ç+zÅ-ÆÛh-„Àôm->Àâ-DP-qÅ-M-¤Û-n¤Å- Û̂Å-zôh-¤ÛºÛ-¤WÛP-q¼-d-hP-ü n-TôG-¾-»ôz-‚Å-mÅ-IPÅ-ZÝP-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-fôG-fÞz-±ôh-GbôP-hÝ-»ôP-z-¼ïhü TïÅ-GÅÞPÅ-q-hï-im-ŸÛP-ü M-¤ÛÅ-zôh-¼ÛGÅ-¾-¤fôP-VßP-‚Å-q-n¤Å-¾-¿ËG-q¼-zŤÅ-GŸÛGÅ-zB¼-¤-ŸÛG-‚ïh-hGôÅ-‚ãP.ü

hï-XïÅ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-±ßGÅ-Ç+zÅ-ÁÛG-bà-ºwm-qô-z-;Ým-hGº-mô¼-zÞ-zM¾-mh-¿e-zÞÅ-ZÛm-¤±m-¿eôÅ-¤ïh-Z¾-z-¾ü M-¾Å-ÁºÞ-lô-XïÅ-lÝP-lïG-ÁÝGÅ-Vï¼-zbP-Çeï-¤±¤Å-zŸG-Ç+zÅ-¾ÞÅ-ˆÛ-º±ô-¸Ûm-¤Û-fÞz-q¼-zdïmü ym-HÛÅ-;Ým-hGº-mô¼-zÞ-Bô¼-bï-M-¾Å-ÁºÞ-¾-hï-ÇSôm-G®P-q-M-¾Å-¤ÛG-h¤¼-mÅ-¿Ë-Å-z-„À-xG-±ï-GŸôm-«ô-zŸÛm-(z®ôm-DP-hÝ-«ô-)lÝP-lïG-zbP-mÅ-zÅh-q-hP.ü h-¾¤-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-ºhÛ-lÝP-lïG-zbP-mÅ-ÁÛ-

Page 152: 14 mount-everest-dingri

130

130 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

m| Eïh-¼P-¾Å-ÇÀ-qô-¤Û-»ôP-z-¤-¸hü ºhÛ¼-»ôh-qºÛ-P-±ô-»P-¾Å-ÇÀ-qô-»ôP-GÛ-¤-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-qÅ-Dô-q-¾ôG-xÛmü

P-±ôºÛ-v-¾ÞP-ŸÛP-¼¼-ºfz-¯ôh-ˆÛ-lÝP-lïG-wôG-q-hP.ü mG-fô-z;ôh-qü ¤fº-±ÛG-zOGÅ-q-zTÅ-È-TP-¤P-qô-‚ãP-ŸÛP-ü lÝP-lïG-GÛ-¾Å-ºGݾ-Çtï¾-Ç+zÅü M¾-¾-Çtïm-q-±ï-¼ÛP-hP.ü ¿Ë-Å-z-ÆÛh-f¼ü Åï-¼ºÛ-IÔ-q-Ÿï-Áïh-GÅÞ¤-¾-h¤ÛGÅ-z;¼-HÛÅ-iG-qôºÛ-ºfz-¯ôh-GbôP-zŸÛm-zIPÅ-qºÛ-mG-ZïÅ-bïü M¾-¾-Çtïm-q-±ï-¼ÛP-GÛÅ-zÞh-¤ïh-¾-¾ôG-G»ï¤-‚Å-qºÛ-FÛ¤Å-ºG¾-mG-ZïÅ-zÅGÅ-qÅ-Dô-q-¯-¤ïh-z ô̧-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-lÝP-lïG-zbP-ü

¿Ë-Å-z-ÆÛh-f¼-HÛÅ-mh-μâÅ-zbz-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-hP-ü h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-zTÅ-ºhôm-hGôÅ-zÁh-q¼ü M¾-¯ï-z-vP-qô-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-lô-Xï-»¼-¾PÅ-bï-zhG-¾-Vz-ÆÛh-ˆÛ-Ç+h-V-zXôh-Mã-mÛ-¤ïh-ˆP-ü ¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-TÛ-ÁïÅ-ŸÝÅ-mü ÆÛh-f¼-Eôh-m-Ç+zÅ-wG-=Ûm-GÅÞ¤-mÅ-GTÛG-P-¾-z®ôP-¼ôGÅ-zXôh-ˆP-¤-z®ôP-zÅü Eôh-¤-¯-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-¼ïh-h¤-¤-¼ïhü

Eôh-m-Ç+zÅ-P-¾-W-¾ïm-hGôÅ-qºÛ-¼ï-zTô¾-‚Å-q-hïü ƒm-G»ôG-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-¼ïh-h¤-¤-¼ïhü

Eôh-m-Ç+zÅ-¾ÞÅ-ˆÛ-ÁÛG-z¸ÞP-ŸÛP-ü ¿UGÅ-=ÛP-mP-„ÀâGÅ-mÅ-P-GZÛÅ-z¼-zŸG-Çeï-P-¾-ºGôÅ-q-hïü Pm-uôh-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-¼ïh-

Page 153: 14 mount-everest-dingri

131

GÅP-z-ÆâP-Vïh-hqº-zô-hGÝ-¼P-ÆôG-hô¼-zü 131

h¤-¤-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü¼ÛG-º²Ûm-lô-Xï-hP-ÆÛh-f¼-GZÛÅ-Mãm-hÝ-I¾-¼ôGÅ-»Ûm-ŸÛP-wm-

±ßm-ºV¤-¤fÞm-»ôh-qÅü ±ôGÅ-ºhݺÛ-fôG-ÆÛh-f¼-¾-ºfz- ô̄h-¤-ºwôG-Vïhü ¼ÛG-º²Ûm-lô-XïÅ-hÝÅ-±ôh-Bï¾-fzÅ-Vz-ÆÛh-hP-¤-ºƒï¾-zºÛ-Bôm-zXôh-μâm-¤-ŸÛG-‚Åü ÆÛh-f¼-¾-ºfz-¯ôh-‚Å-±¼-XïÅ-mGÅ-ºhzÅ-ŸÛP-¼ºÛ-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-zbP.ü

Åï-¼ºÛ-IÔ-Ÿï-Áïh-¾-iG-qôºÛ-ºfz-¯ôh-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-¤P-±ôGÅ- Û̂Å-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-Mãm-hÝ-±ôGÅ-ºhݼü hqï-hôm-¤Û-¤±ßPÅ-qºÛ-Ç+h-V-hÝ-¤-Áôh-q-n¤Å-¾ü ºIï¾-zÁh-ˆÛÅ-Gž-qô-z¸ô-hGôÅ-q-¤-¸hü zTß-hqôm-GÅP-ÇSGÅ-VôÅ-μôP-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-Eôh-¾-DôÅ-GP-zÁh-MãÅ-»ôh-qÅü ¼ÛG-º²Ûm-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-ÇSôm-hÝ-Áôh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü GÅP-ÇSGÅ-VôÅ-μôP-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-»¼-¾PÅ-mÅ-Ÿï-Áïh-ˆÛ-¤hÝm-xÛm-bï-¾G-G»Å-ˆÛ-¤²âz-¤ôÅ-Ÿï-Áïh-¾-ÇkÛG-zŸÛmü Eôh-ˆÛÅ-zÁh-qºÛ-hqï-hP-qô-¾ü

GPÅ-¾-ZÛ-¤-ºV¼-hÝÅ-hGº-»P-hGºüGPÅ-Vß->ÀâP-¾-zŸÝ¼-hÝÅ-Bô-»P-Bôü ŸïÅ-zÁh-qºÛ-hôm-TÛ-»Ûm-

m¤ü ŸïÅ-zXôh-q¼ü Ÿï-Áïh-ˆÛÅ-¹-Çeôh-¾-W-¤¼-hP-¯¤-wôGÅ-vôh-hÝÅ-hGº-ŸÛP-ü ¹-Ǩh-¾-W-¤¼-hP-¯-¤-q-¸h-Ç+zÅ-Bô-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-hôm-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-fôGÅ-fÞG-®¤-¤ïh-q¼-¾m-zbzü

Page 154: 14 mount-everest-dingri

132

132 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

»P-ü GPÅ-¼Û-h;¼-qô-¤¼-¾-Hã¼-»P-wô¼-¤¼-GTÛG-GÛ-¼ï-z-¤ïhü G®P-Vz-ÇSôm-¤ô-VP-¾-ºHã¼-»P-Èàz-GP-GÛ-mÛ-¼ï-z-¤ïhüTïÅ-qºÛ-hôm-TÛ-»Ûm-m¤ü ŸïÅ-q¼ü Ÿï-Áïh-ˆÛÅ-M¾-»ôPÅ-¾-¾ô-¾ïGÅ-ˆP-ü P-±ôºÛ-¯¤-wôGÅ-¹-¼ï¼-M-¤-ÅÞ¤-Tß-Åô-zMh-(M-¤-GZÛÅ-¾-;Û-¾ô-GTÛG-GÛ-±h-GŸÛ-»ôh-qÅ-Eôm-;Û-¾ô-zTß-hGÝü)hP-ü M¾-»ôPÅ-¾-ºƒôG-¾Å-fôm-Bïh-Vï-»P.ü P-±ôºÛ-W-±Ð-¤¼-GÅÞ¤-¹-¼ï¼-;Û-¾ô-xïh-;-¼ïhü TïÅ-qºÛ-hôm-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-¾m-zbzü

»P-hqï-GÅÞ¤-q¼üÍ-Áï¾-¾GÅ-ˆÛ-DôG-q-lô-Áï¾-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-zMPÅ-Åôüü‚ã-¼Þ-h¤¼-qôºÛ-DôG-q-ÇeôP-Ç+Ýh-GÅÞ¤-HÛÅ-zMPÅ-Åôüü ŸïÅ-

zÁh-qºÛ-hôm-TÛ-ŸÛG-»Ûm-m¤ü iÛÅ-q¼ü ¾m-hÝü Èà¼-z¯ôm-Tm-ÇeïP-Vïm-q-EãP-yâG-GÛÅ-ºWâ-q-»ï-G®ßG-GÛ-DôG-q¼-º²â¾ü »ï-G®ßG-GÛÅ-GÅP-ÇSGÅ-VôÅ-μôP-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-HÛ-DôG-q¼-º²â¾ü ¼ÛG-º²Ûm-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-¾Å-‚ïh-qºÛ-DôG-q¼-º²â¾-mÅü ¤hô¼-zÇkÝÅ-m-¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-zM-ÁôG-±P-¤-ŸÛ-zhï-¤ïh-q¼-z ô̧Å-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-hôm-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-GôP-Gž-¾m-n¤Å-Ÿï-Áïh-̂ ÛÅ-zŤ-„Àô-TßP-̧ h-®¤-GbôP-¤Û-hGôÅ-q¼-Á¼-¼ï-Áôh-Ç+zÅü ºfz-ô̄h- Û̂-±ôGÅ-ºhݼ-Gh-¤ô-zGh-m-¼P-ZÛh-Zïm-ºGm-mP-¿ËàP-Mã-»P-ü Ÿï-Áïh-ˆÛ-PG-¯¾-hP-Ç+h-GhPÅü n¤-ºHã¼-zTÅ-¾-P-±ô-¤P-Vï-z-DôG-

Page 155: 14 mount-everest-dingri

133

GÅP-z-ÆâP-Vïh-hqº-zô-hGÝ-¼P-ÆôG-hô¼-zü 133

º²â¤-hzP-¤ïh-hÝ-Áô¼-mÅ-ÇkÝG-¼ÞÅ-zMz-mÅ-Çkôh-hGôÅ-‚ãP-ü Ÿï-Áïh-ˆÛÅ-hï-¿e¼-zÁh-qºÛ-ZïÅ-q¼-JÀ-wôGÅ-ÇKô¼-zŸÛ-zTß-Ÿï-¿S-mÅ-ÇKô¼-zTß-¼ï-zTGÅü

Ç+zÅ-hï¼-ym-HÛÅ-M¾-Dz-»¼-MÅ-xÛm-Ç+ô¼-zXôh-ˆP.ü hôm-hPôÅ-P-±ô¼-hï-ÇSôm-¹-¼ï¼-¤¼-wôGÅ-M-¤-GZÛÅ-mÅü ¼Û¤-qÅ-M-¤-GTÛG-hP-xïh-hP-¤f¼-M-¤-GTÛG-¾Å-vôh-ˆÛ-¤Û-ºhÝG TïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-ym-¾-zTß-ÁôG-mP-hGG-q-hP.ü Bôm-zXôh-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-‚Å-bï-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚ïh-ºWâG-hGôÅ-zÁh-q-¿e¼ü Bôm-zXôh-‚Å-‚ãP-zºÛ-¾m-hÝ| ym-HÛÅ-hPôÅ-»ôh-GmÅ-±ß¾-zÁh-mü Vß-Vß-¤Gô¼-»ôh-m-»Þ¼-¤WâG-¾-ÇÀïzÅ-q-¿e¼-M¾-Dz-»¼-MÅ-xÛm-mü ym-±ô¼-»P-wôGÅ-ÇS¼-zŸÛm-GmP-GÛ-¼ïh-zŤÅ-‚ãP.ü hï-¾Å-GŸm-PôÅ-¾ïm-TÛ-»P-‚ïh-Mã-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-qÅü M-¾Å-¤ÛG-h¤¼-HÛÅ-ym-zTß-ÁôG-h Û̂¾-»¼-zÇÀPÅ-mÅ-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-zÁh-q-hï-hPôÅ-ºƒï¾-»Ûm-¤Ûm-hP.ü M¾-Dz-ˆÛ-¤±m-¾¼-Gmôh-¤Ûm-zŤ-„Àô-fôPÅü ŸïÅ-zÁhü Eïh-¼P-±ôºÛ-¤ºôºÛ-GÅÞP-zbàÅ-mP-ÁïÅ-±h-Áôh-hGôÅü Áôh-¤Dm-¾-ZïÅ-q-¤ïhü Zm-¤Dm-HÛÅ-zÇÀz-‚-¾ïm-hGôÅü ŸïÅ-»ôh-q¼-zdïm-ym-HÛÅ-»Ûh-¾-GP-ºV¼-PG-mÅ-zÁh-TÛP-ü hï-»P-ºEôG-zÁh-¤Ûm-qºÛ-hPôÅ-»ôh-GmÅ-±ß¾-»Ûmü hï-¤Ûm-PôÅ-¾ïm-TÛ-»P-‚-Mã-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü ZÛm-hï¼-ym-¾-Bôm-

Page 156: 14 mount-everest-dingri

134

134 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zXôh-‚ïh-Mã-¤±¤Å-zŸG-mÅ-¾Å-‚ïh-n¤Å-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-º±ôGÅ-bïü±ôGÅ-G®ô-;ºô-Ghm-iPÅ-q-zŸÛm-ÅP-ZÛm-hï-ym-Dô-qºÛ-¤hÝm-zÇ+ôPÅ-bï| ;ºô-»ÛÅ-ym-¾-¤ÛG-ºzÞ¼-±ßGÅ-ÅÞ-z¿eÅ-mÅ-¤DÅ-Z¤Å-hP-iG-ÁÝGÅ-Vï-¤hôG-GÛÅ-º²¤-JÀÛP-fôG-h¼-V-h;¼-h¤¼-GZÛÅ-»ôh-q-hP.ü h¼-V-h;¼-qôºÛ-ºôG-Çkôh-¤Dm-mÛü Í-¼ÛÅ-G®ôÅ-z®m-M¾-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-ˆÛ-¾ôG-uôh-I¾-¼Û¤-n¤Å-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ü h¼-V-h¤¼-qôºÛ-ºôG-bà-Çkôh-¤Dm-mÛü P-±ô-=âP-GôÅ-G®ôÅ-uÛ-±ôGÅ-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-q-n¤Å-»Ûmühï¼-zdïm-º²¤-JÀÛP-M-Vï-»P-¾¤-GZÛÅ-¾Å-¤ïh-qÅ-z¼-GmÅ-ÅÞ-Çkôh-fzÅ-Gbm-mÅ-¤ïh-q¼ü h;¼-h¤¼-GZÛÅ-ÅÞºÛ-xôGÅ-¾PÅ-hGôÅ-ˆP-¾PÅ-Mã-¼ïhü Vï-Å-º²¤-JÀÛP-fôG-hï-¿e¼-»Ûm-mü Eôh-±ô-z®ôm-q-hP.ü ¾Å-¤Û-n¤Å-ˆP-º²¤-JÀÛP-ºwï¾-ƒÛh-¾-zdïm-mÅ-»P-m-uÛ-±ôGÅ-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-ˆÛ-¾¤-hÝ-zBôh-hGôÅ-q-hP.ü hï-¤Ûm-z;Å-z;ôh-Mãm-º²Ûm-HÛ-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-¾PÅ-bï-Gż-zXï¼-Pô-Lô¾-‚ïh-¤Dm-XïÅ-¾ÞÅ-q-ŸÛG-VGÅ-hGôÅü

PG-hzP-Eôh-¼P-¾-V-zŸG-mü D-mÅ-W-±Ð-¤¼-GÅÞ¤-ZÝP-ºyÛ-‚Å-Ç+ô¼-M¾-Dz-¾-¤±m-ÁÅ-z¸ôÅ-q-hP.ü uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-qºÛ-¾¤-¾ÞGÅ-¿e¼-¤Gô-¾-C-ŸÝG-zŸG-»ôh-q¼-GŸÛGÅ-±ï-¼ï-ÇeôP-ŸÛG-»ôh-q-fG-Vôhü h-¿e-ym-mÅ-Eôh-¾-¤ÛÅ-zÁh-qºÛ-Bôm-GZÛÅ-®¤-Gž-zÁh-

Page 157: 14 mount-everest-dingri

135

GÅP-z-ÆâP-Vïh-hqº-zô-hGÝ-¼P-ÆôG-hô¼-zü 135

¸Ûm-»P.ü h-hÝP-¤ÛÅ-zÁh-qºÛ-Bôm-¤P-qô-»ôh-q-n¤Å-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚ôÅühï-»P-hôm-±m-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-ÇKô-mÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚ïh-hGôÅü

hôm-±m-hP-qôü Eôh-¼P-GÛ-zŤ-„ÀôºÛ-mP-ºfz-¯ôh-‚Å-bï-PôÅ-¾ïm-Gž-qô-‚ïh-hGôÅühôm-±m-GZÛÅ-qü ÇKï¼-Bôm-Gž-zÁh-ˆÛÅ-hï¼-hGG-q-MG-hGôÅühôm-±m-GÅÞ¤-qü xÛÅ-mÅ-‚-z-hï-¼ÛGÅ-ÇtPÅ-mÅ-¤Û-‚ïh-qºÛ-DÅ-¾ïm-hGôÅü

ŸïÅ-zÁh-‚ãP-z¼ü ym-HÛÅ-D-ÅP-ŸÝÅ-q-¿e¼-W-±Ð-¤¼-GÅÞ¤-Ç+ô¼-¾Å-PôÅ-¾ïm-ŸÝ-Mã-GŸm-¤ïhü C-¿Ëh-¤-zŸG-qºÛ-fh-=âP-ÈØ-¤Û-h¤PÅ-uÛ-¤fÞm-M¾-Dz-ˆÛ-¯-FÛ¤Å-mP-»Þ¾-Gô¤Å-GÁÛÅ-¾ÞGÅ-n¤Å-ÇS¼-¿e¼-‚Å-VôG-q-Gž-z-zŸÛm-zŸG-»ôhü PºÛ-PôÅ-mÅ-º²¤-JÀÛP-GÛ-h¼-V-h;¼-h¤¼-HÛ-GmÅ-¾ÞGÅ-w¼-ŸôG-¼P-EÛ¤-GÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-»P-¤Û-ÁïÅ-ˆP-ü GŸm-HÛÅ-Bôm-zXôh-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-¤P-qô-»ôh-Ç+ô¼-GÅÞPÅ-q-¿e¼-¤Û-ÅÞ-»Ûm-»P-GhôP-GbàG-GÛÅ-zl¼-Á-GTôh-MãºÛ-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-»ôP-z-ŸÝ-Mã-¤-¸hü zhïm-q-zhïm-fôG-GmP-m-hGº-zÅÞ-ŸÝ-Mã-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zXôh-q-»Ûmü

M-¾Å-¤ÛG-h¤¼-HÛÅ-Eôh-©ôPÅ-hh-Vï-zÅ-ºzÞ-ÆÛm-hP-Ç~¾-

Page 158: 14 mount-everest-dingri

136

136 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

z-ÅôGÅ-¾-ljÛP-XïÅ-¤-GÅh-q¼-h=ôG-GÛ-ºhÝG hïP-Ç+zÅ-¼ÛG-GmÅ-Gż-zXï-Vïm-qô-ºhÛ-mÛ-½‰ÛP-Gbô¼-Gż-º²âGÅ-‚ïh-hGôÅ-q-»Ûm-ŸÛP.üuÛ-±ôGÅ-fôG-Lm-GŸôm-z¼-¤-;Ým-C-zŸ¼-z-hP-ü z®ôm-DP-hÝ-»P-Eôh-¼P-®¤-¾Å-GŸm-ÅÞÅ-ˆP-h-Ç+zÅ-C-¿Ëh-¤-zŸG-¤ïhü hïP-Ç+zÅ-Hôm-q-h¤¼-qôºÛ-¼ÛGÅ-¤ï¼-zÆïGÅ-bï-¤fôP-Mã-¤ïh-q-z¸ôÅ-q-¤-¤fôP-P¤ü ŸïÅ-zÁh-q-hP-ü hï-¤-fG-C-z®m-zŸ¼-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü ºy¾-¤¼-±ôGÅ-Vïm-zÇ+ôPÅ-mÅ-ym-±ôGÅ-hzÞÅ-ÅÞ-zÇÀPÅ-bïü M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-PG-hzP-GÛ-©ôPÅ-hh-ˆÛ-¯-z-hGG-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zXôh-q-hP-ü ÇeïP-Vïm-q-EãP-yâG-»¼-¾PÅ-bï-Eôh-̂ ÛÅ-¤P-±ôGÅ-̂ Û-¤ÛG-¤fôP-ż-Ç~¾-q-¤-GÅh-q¼-Gh-zMz-q-hP.ü GÅP-zºÛ-fôG-ºhôm-q-zbôm-q-n¤Å-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zXôhü EãP-yâG-hP-¤±ßPÅ-qºÛ-ym-¾-Bôm-zXôh-‚ïh-¤Dm-ºGº-‚ãP-z-hï-¤±¤Å-ÁÛG-¾-M-h¤¼-HÛ-hqôm-qô-;ºô-bàh-=P-GÛÅ-mP-q-hP-ü »ï-ÁÝü D-Vï-zTÅ-VôÅ-¾ÞGÅ-WÛ-®¤-»ôh-q-n¤Å-Åï¤Å-G®ô-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-q-Á-ÇeG-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ü Åï¤Å-G®ô-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-q-hï-hG-¾-©ôPÅ-hh-TïÅ-¤ÛP-zbGÅü hï-hG-hP-¤ºôºÛ-hGôPÅ-q-¤ï-hP-Çtä-¿e-zÞ-¤fÞm-fzÅ-¯-z-mÅ-¤ïhü hï¼-zdïm-Eôh-¼P-GÛ-‚-Pm-hï-n¤Å-mG-ZïÅ-Vï-VßP-WÛ-®¤-ÇÀïzÅ-Ťü hï-¾ÞGÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚ïh-hGôÅü ŸïÅ-zÁh-hïüym-¾-Ç+h-V-zÁh-MãºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-vh-qü ym-HÛÅ-º²¤-JÀÛP-fôG-ÆôG-

Page 159: 14 mount-everest-dingri

137

GÅP-z-ÆâP-Vïh-hqº-zô-hGÝ-¼P-ÆôG-hô¼-zü 137

VGÅ-GP-ºi-ŸÛG-»Ûm-»P-ºVÛ-z¼-¤Û-ºWÛGÅ-q-ÅÞ-»P-¤ïhü ºhÛ¼-P-¾-Bôm-zXôh-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-GmP-¤Dm-¾Å-‚ïh-¿Ëm-MÅ-±P-¤-ºVÛ-z-¾-ºWÛGÅ-ÇoP-‚ïh-¤Dm-Á-ÇeG-¼ïhü hï¼-zdïm-ym-HÛÅ-¼P-hqï-GŸm-z;z-‚Å-bï-ºhôh-q-xôGÅ-¤±ßPÅ-»Ûm-qºÛ-ºzÞ-ÆÛm-hP.ü Ç~¾-q-zTÅ-¤-GÅh-q¼-Å-V-zhï-ż-zB¾-HÛ-»ôhü GŸm-©ôPÅ-hh-ˆÛ-¯-z-Gbm-mÅ-‚Å-¤ïh-q-¤-¸hü hï-zÅ-D-mÅ-©ôPÅ-hh-‚Å-ŸïÅ-q-¯-z-mÅ-ÁïÅ-ˆÛ-¤ïhü VßP-mÅ-Gô¤Å-GÁÛÅ-ºWGÅ-qºÛ-¤-aÛ-ºƒâ-iâG-mÛ-¾Å-‚ïh-n¤-qÅ-G®ôÅ-zôh-¼ÛGÅ-»ôPÅ-mÅ-¤-zÇÀzÅ-q¼-¤Eïm-qÅü hï-mÛ-PÅ-Vïh-hÝ-PG-mÅ-zbôm-q-»Ûm-zŤ-¤Û-imü G¾-bï-¤-aÛ-zbôm-»ôh-ˆP-È-¾Å-Mã-¤Û-ºhÝG-lj¤ü GP-¾GÅ-Áï-mü Eïh-±ôºÛ-Gż-zXïºÛ-ÇÀôz-hqôm-¤ºôºÛ-GÅÞP-¯ô¤-hÝü uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-qºÛ-ÁïÅ-»ôm-Tm-HÛ-zG-VGÅ-IÛz-¤-hï-»Þm-¼ÛP-z¼-hÝ-GmÅ-ˆÛ-¼ïh-TïÅ-zXôh-»ôhü hï¼-zdïm-P-±ô¼-Vz-ÆÛh-ˆÛ-hzP-V-¤ïh-qºÛ-fôG-Nå¼-z;ôh-¤Þ-¤fÞh-GbôP-hGôÅ-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-»P-hï-¿e¼-¼ïhü GÝÅ-qÅ-zHÛÅ-q-hï-hG-©ôPÅ-hh-»Ûm-m-ºW¤-qôºÛ-ÇÀôz-GÅôÅ-„Àô-ºGÝG-‚Å-m-¼Û¤-zŸÛm-Nå¼-z;ôh-»ôP-GÛ-¼ïh-zXôhü

ZÛm-hïºÛ-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-Iô¾-bï-¾Å-‚ïh-n¤Å-hGôP-iô-¸Þ¼-º±ôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-ym-HÛ-mG-ZïÅ-¾-h‚ï-ŸÛz-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü ©ôPÅ-hh-ˆÛÅ-ºzÞ-ÆÛm-hP-Ç~¾-q-¤-GÅh-q-¤ºôºÛ-hGôPÅ-q-hP-ºG¾-zÅü mG-ZïÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-

Page 160: 14 mount-everest-dingri

138

138 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

HÛ-»Û-Gï-vôh-hGôÅ-zXôh-q-¿e¼-hzP-¤ïh-hÝ-vôh-hGôÅ-‚ãP.ü¤Û-GŸm-¾-»P-¼Û¤-zŸÛm-Bôm-zXôh-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-HÛ-¾Å-ºGݾ-

ZÛm-¤P-¼Û¤-zÇeàh-Çtï¾-z-mÅ-fïPÅ-ÁÛG-;ôP-qô-z-zÞ-Í-ZôG-¾ü Åï-¼-z-xG-¤²ôh-wÛG-wÛG-GÛÅ-zÞ-Í-ZôG-Eôh-¼P-GÛÅ-P-¾-¾Å-»Þ¾-hÝ-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤-GP-hÝ-zŸÝGÅ-hP-ü ¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ-wïzÅ-fÞz-¤Ûm-ÅôGÅ-iÛÅ-‚ãP-z-zTÅ-mÛü bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤-hP-Vz-ÆÛh-fôG-¼P-z®m-ºôP-MãºÛ-¼ï-ÇeôP-‚ïh-ˆÛ-»ôh-qºÛ-DÞPÅ-Bï¾-¼ïhü hï-hG-ym-HÛÅ-¾Å-‚ïh-¾-ŸÝÅ-qÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁhü zÞ-Í-ZôG-GÛÅ-hï-¿e¼-zÁh-¤ïh-TïÅ-¯-z-mÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-¤-‚Åü

GmÅ-±ß¾-hïÅ-zÞ-Í-ZôG-¾-zTß-ÁôG-mP-¤±m-¤ôºÛ-Vß-±ôh-zTß-GZÛÅ-®¤-z¼-ºfz-¯ôh-GbôP-zºÛ-Ç+h-ˆÛÅ-DïPÅ-q-hP-ü hï-mÅ-Vß-±ôh-GTÛG-®¤-Ç+h-O-ºWGÅ-mÅ-ºW¤-fÛP-Pï¼-GmÅ-ÅôP-zü P-¼P-»P-GZÛh-hÝ-»Þ¼ü »P-zB¼-DôP-±ôºÛ-Z¾-DP-hï¼-ºÞ¼-¸ÛP-ºDô¾-bï-P-±ôºÛ-GZÛh-h=ôGÅ-q-¤-¸hü ¤±m-GP-¿ËÛP-ºWGÅ-¤ïh-q¼-GmÅ-ˆP-P-±ôÅ-GZÛh-μâ-zbzü

ÅP-ZÛm-ÁÛP-GÁôG-ż-DôP-±ôºÛ-Z¾-DP-GÛ-M¾- ï̄-z-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-lô-Xï-¾-ym-HÛÅ-¤hP-hGôP-GmÅ-±ß¾-G-¼ï-‚ãP-P¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-qÅ-DôP-GÛÅü zÞ-Í-ZôG-¾-ZÛm-¤±m-£ï¾-bï-ºfz-¯ôh-zbP-»P-DôP-GÛÅ-bØ-

Page 161: 14 mount-everest-dingri

139

GÅP-z-ÆâP-Vïh-hqº-zô-hGÝ-¼P-ÆôG-hô¼-zü 139

¾ºÛ-„À-¤-±ï-ºhÛºÛ-hqôm-qô-hP.ü xÛ-¤ºÛ-BzÅ-GmÅ-ˆÛ-„À-¤-»Ûmü zôh-¼P-z®m-»P-fôz-ˆÛ-¼ïh-lj¤ü zôh-ˆÛ-M¾-¼zÅ-¤P-qô-¤Û-ÁïÅ-ˆP.P-BïÅ-mÅ-z¸ÞP-¾ô-Zï¼-zMh-¤-Åôm-z¼-M-¤Û-GTÛG-ˆP-¤ÛG-GÛÅ-¤fôP-¥ôP.¤ïhü ¼P-¾ô-Zï¼-zMh-Åôm-Ç+zÅ-M-h¤¼-mÅ-Vz-¤hô¼-iG-Gmôm-‚Å-q-Gô-fôÅ-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-Áôh-Ç+zÅ-¤±m-¤ôºÛ-Vß-±ôh-zTß-GZÛÅ-®¤-¼ïhüM-¾Å-¤ÛG-h¤¼-HÛÅ-zTß-hqôm-Åï-¼ºÛ-xG-¤²ôh-wÛG-wÛG-¾-zÞ-Í-ZôG-¾ïGÅ-ÆâP-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-mm-¤PGÅ-‚Å-mÅ-EÛ¤-hÝ-Z¾-z¼-zBôhü

xG-¤²ôh-wÛG-wÛG-GÛÅ-¤±m-TÛ-»ôP-V-¤Û-º±¾-lj¤-qºÛ-hôGÅ-ºV¼-HÛÅ-zŸÝ-¤¼-Çt¼-Vïh-®G-O-G»¼-z¼-ÁÛP-z ô̧ºÛ-zTß-ÁôG-mP-zBôh-¼ÛP-ü Dô-qºÛ-zTß-ÁôG-GÛ-¤Û-GŸm-±P-¤-Z¾-»P-ü zÞ-Í-ZôG-¤-Z¾-z¼-hôm-ŸÛG-¾-Åï¤Å-zŸÛm-Åï-¼ºÛ-xG-¤²ôh-wÛG-wÛG-ÇKô-mÅ-º²â¾-¤-fG-Z¾-ºôG-mÅ-¼ÛP-±h-Åô¼-¿S-®¤-hP-ü »Þ-z¼-¼Å-h=ÛÅ-qºÛ-¯Ó-¸ô¼-ŸÛG-zbôm-bï-xG-¤²ôh-wÛG-wÛG-GÛ-ljÛP-D¼-ÁÝGÅ- Û̂Å-zÇoÝm-qÅü ÇeôzÅ-Vï-zºÛ-xG-¤²ôh-wÛG-wÛG-ÇeôzÅ-VßP-Í-ZôG-GÛ-fôG-ºHï¾-bï-ÇeïP-mÅ-¼ôÅ-¤mm-q-hP-G»Å-G»ôm-ÁÛP-hݤ-HÛÅ-z;G-»ôh-qÅ-Í-ZôG-¾PÅ-¤-fÞz-q¼ü hï-ºy¾-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bï-lÝP-lïG-ÁÝGÅ-Vï-zbP-mÅ-¾G-q-GTÛG-hP-@P-q-GTÛG-zTG-ˆP-PG-mÅü h-P-È-TP-„Àô-zhïü Eôh-±ôÅ-GÅh-lÝP-TÛ-‚ïh-ˆP-ºHôh-q-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-ˆÛ-ºhÝG-¸ï¼ü

Page 162: 14 mount-everest-dingri

140

140 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

P-±ô-¾Å-Å-mÅ-Z¾-DP-hÝ-¾ôG-hÝÅ-zÞ-Í-ZôG-z Þ̧P-Ço-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-zB¾-ºhÝG-q-hP-xG-¤²ôh-wÛG-wÛG-¾ü DôP-GÛ-ÆôG-mÛ-Gż-zXïºÛ-hôm-hÝ-zbP-zºÛ-¤²h-XïÅ-z¸P-qô-ŸÛG-»Ûm-q¼-zdïm-¥-Pm-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅü wÞP-qô-¼ô-ÇK¤-mP-„ÀâGÅ-ÁÛP-¼Å-h;¼-HÛÅ-zÇeà¤Å-q-ÅôGÅ-M-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-ˆÛ-¾ÞGÅ-¿e¼-‚Å-q-z®ôm-qºÛ-mP-mÅ-Dô-q-®¤-»Ûmü

Ç+zÅ-hïºÛ-²-iG-GÛ-ºfz-¯ôh-¤-z¸ôh-q¼-mG-ZïÅ-TÛ-»P-¤ïh-ˆP-¼P-¿UïzÅ-‚Å-q-BïÅ-»Þ¾-hq¾-ºz¼-mÅ-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ü hq¾-ºz¼-„À-ƒP-GÛ-iï¾-q-¾ô-Zï¼-zMh-®¤-¾-Åôm-q-Ç+¾-z¸P-VôÅ-IGÅ-hP.ü Vz-¤hô-hGôm-HÛ-iâP-»ÛG-hP-BïÅ-»Þ¾-hï-G¼-»Ûm-qü ¾ô-zŸÛ-zTß-®¤-Åôm-qºÛ-ºwGÅ-q-±ï-zdmü Çtô-Çeôh-mÅ-»Ûm-ŸÛP-¾ô-ÅÞ¤-Tß-Åô-GZÛÅ-¾-Åôm-q-=â-¾ô-D-zTÅ-ÇS-xÛ¼-Çtô-Vß¼-¤VôPÅ-mÅ-¿UïzÅü

GôP-GÛ-¼P-ÁÛ-zMz-q-n¤Å-ym-HÛÅ-hPôÅ-¤fôP-‚ãP-z-Á-ÇeG-»Ûm-q-hP-ü hï-¤Ûm-z®ôm-DP-GÛ-¼Þ-Vïm-GP-ż-hôm-¤ïh-z½‰Å-º±ô¾-¾-zdïm-mG-¤ïh-ZïÅ-ºGï¾-iG-¯çz-Dô-mÅ-VßP-Å-mÅ-ºfz-¯ôh-iG-qô-ºwôG-q-hP-ü Vï-Å-mÅ-ºWÛGÅ-hPPÅ-¤-z¸ôh-q¼-¼P-ÁÛ-zMz-q-ÅôGÅ-hÝ-¤-‚ãP-»ôhü

Page 163: 14 mount-everest-dingri

141

zôh-¤Û-zTß-hGݺÛ-ÆôG-Áô¼-zü 141

zTß-qü

zôh-¤Û-zTß-hGݺÛ-ÆôG-Áô¼-zü(1970-3 1970-8)

uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ôºÛ-¸ÛP-ºFâG-Ç+zÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-hô-h¤-‚Å-qºÛ-z®ôm-q-±ô¼-¤Û-‚ïh-qºÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-¾G-¾ïm-zÇe¼-DÞ¾-HÛÅü uÛ-¾ô-1970 ¹- 3 mP-fïPÅ-hP-qô¼-¤Û- 15 ®¤-ŸÛG-GÝ-»PÅ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-fôG-JÀôh-Iô¾-zbP-ü

ym-HÛÅ-GÅP-zºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-¤Û-Ço-fÞG-ºyh-Vïh-P-±ôºÛ-mP-GÅïÅ- Û̂-W-±Ð-¤¼-GÅÞ¤-¾ïm-¤Dm-hÛP-¼Û-w-iâG-ºyÛm-¾Å-wÞm-±ôGÅ-ˆÛ-¼ôGÅ-q¼ü z®ôm-DP-ÍP-GZÛÅ-qºÛ-mP-GÅïÅ-iâG-q-z¸ÞP-Ço¼-¹-¼ï¼-fïPÅ-¼ï-¤Z¤-zBôh-‚Å-bïü GÅP-zºÛ-¤Û-Ço-„Àô-fÞz-¼ï-¸ÞP-hP-¤Z¤-±-wôGÅ-MG-±ß¾-W-zbàP-mÅ-uÛ-‚ïºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-n¤Å-JÀïP-ÇÀôP-‚ïh-ˆÛ-»ôhü fïPÅ-GTÛG-mGÅ-ºhzÅ-¼Þ-Vïm-iâG-qºÛ-GÅP-zºÛ-ºGô-

Page 164: 14 mount-everest-dingri

142

142 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ºFÛh- **** DôP-W-±-¤¼-¾ïm-q¼-wïzÅ-q-DôP-GÛÅ-GÅÞPÅ-q¼ü DôP-GÛ-¼Þ-Vïm-hÝ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-¿Ëô-D-M-±-μôP-mÅ-»Ûm-q-¿UGÅ-z¸ôºÛ-¾G-¯¾-q-±ï-¼ÛP-ÇeôzÅ-MÅ- Û̂-¤hÝmü M-¤Û-¾Å-‚ïh-q-ŸÛG-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-HÛ-GTßÅ-G ï̧¼-z ô̧-z¼-ÇÀïzÅ-ÁÛP-ü M-¤Û-hïÅ-±ï-¼ÛP-ÇeôzÅ-MÅ-¾-GTßÅ-G¸ï¼-»G-qô-¤-z¸ôÅ-q¼-zljh-hï-f¾-¿UG-ŸÝÅ-q-hP.ü ±ï-¼ÛP-ÇeôzÅ-MÅ-DôP-Fô-iG-bà-¾PÅ-mÅ-DôºÛ-¤Gô¼-fô-z-ŸÝÅ-mÅ-zÅh-qÅü hï-¤-fG-M-¾Å-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-±ï-¼ÛP-ÇeôzÅ-MÅ-fG-qÅ-zTÛPÅ-ÁÛP-Gm¤-¾-zbGÅ-mÅ-iÛ-¯h-‚ïh-Ç+zÅü ±ï-¼ÛP-ÇeôzÅ-MÅ-ˆÛÅ-M-h¤¼-Eôh-±ôºÛ-hïz-mP-w-ÁÛ-ÅÛ-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-ŸïÅ-z;ôh-q-hï-GŸm-¾-zXôh-q-®¤-¾Å-Eôh-±ôÅ-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¾G-¾ïm-zÇe¼ü

Mã-¤±m-zôh-ºhÛ¼-hqï¼-¤±ôm-mü zôh-¤Û-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-h¤¼-GÅôh-GbôP-z-hP.ü ¤m¼-GTôh-ˆÛÅ-GÅôh-qü ¤Þ-Gï¼-ÁÛ-zTßG-qü z®ôm-hÝ-zTßG-q-ÅôGÅ-w-ÁÛ-ÅÛºÛ-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-ˆÛÅ-zôh-¤Û-¯-¤ïh-z¸ô-fzÅ-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü zôh-ˆÛ-¯-Vï-zºÛ-Mã-hPôÅ-M-mG-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-hP-ü ¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-z®m-ºyôG-‚Å-q-hP-ü ¿ËG-¾ÞÅ-wm-¤Û-fôGÅ-qºÛ-T-hPôÅ-®G-®ÛG-DG-¤Û-¤P-¾-zGô-ºIï¤Å-‚ïh-DÞ¾-‚Å-q-¤-¸hü ¼Ûm-fP-ƒ¾-zºÛ-¯-VïºÛ-M¾-zºÛ-Ç+Ý-GÅÞP-fÞGÅ-dïm-DG-hP.ü VôÅ-Çkï-hGôm-q-DG ¤Vôh-dïmü ¤m-ÇtäPÅ-hP-zTÅ-q-¼ÛG-GmÅ-Gż-zXï¼-¤ÛP-zbGÅ-mÅ-

Page 165: 14 mount-everest-dingri

143

zôh-¤Û-zTß-hGݺÛ-ÆôG-Áô¼-zü 143

¯-¤ïh-Gbô¼-Bôm-zbP-Çeïü zôh-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-ˆÛÅ-xG-hP-¤Vôh-ºzÞ¾-‚ïh-»Þ¾-¤m-ÇtäPÅ-Gbô¼-XïÅ-lô-¾ïz-n¤Å-¾¤-¾-zbÛPÅ-q-ÅôGÅ-‚Å-»ôhühï-n¤Å-¾-G®P-¤-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-¾Å-ºGݾ-¤Û-zXôh-m-GP-zXôh-h¤ü Eïh-±ôÅ-¤-Dï-ÅÛ-¾ï-ZÛm-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-hP-¤ºôºÛ-hGôPÅ-q-»P-hG-q-»Ûm-±ß¾-zXôh-q-n¤Å-ºhÛ-¼ïh-h¤ü ŸïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü M-h¤¼-¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-¾ôG-uôh-I¾-¼Û¤-hP.ü ¾ôG-uôh-q¼-P-±ôÅ-hÝÅ-m¤-»P-‚¤Å-BôP-¤Û-‚ïhühï-mÛ-¤ºôÅ-GÅÞPÅ-q-ŸÛG-»Ûmü

¤Û-Pm-Eôh-¿e-zÞ-¾-P-±ô¼-ljÛP-Xï-Çtä-®¤-»P-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-hïüGm¤-fG-MG-zŸÛm-¤m¼-GTôh-zbP-z-hP-im-q-fô¼-¤±¤Å-Vß-IP-¤ô-Gbô¼-z-ÅôGÅ-¾m-¤P-‚Å-ˆP-ü DôP-GÛÅ-ÆôG-h¤¼-qô-ºzïm-¾-z®ßGÅ-MãºÛ-Vôh-Åï¤Å-zdm-qÅ-hGÝP-IPÅ-ÅÞ¤-Tß-Åô-zhÝm-®¤-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-¤Û-h¼-¤-DôP-ZÛm-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-XïÅ-¶-Q-¤-Á¼-¼ï-ƒôÅ-q-¾Åü ÇeG-º²â¤-iâG-ZÛ¾-¾ï¼-ºVÛ-m-hGºü ŸïÅ-q-¿e¼-G¸Û-zXÛh-¿km-qºÛ-PP-ºhÅü

DôP-GÛÅ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-GÅÞPÅ-q¼ü h-hÝP-¼Þ-Vïm-iâG-q¼-uÛ-¾ô-1969 ¾ôºÛ-GŸm-Bôm-ºfï¼-ºhôm-HÛ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-Ç+zÅ-Çkï-hGï-z-FÛ-fô-ŸïÅ-qÅü zm-Vïm-Í-G¼-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-„À-¤-;Ým-hGº-hzP-xãG-ż-VôÅ-ŸÝ-»Û-ºhÝG-TïÅ-Bôm-zXôh-‚Å-q¼-zdïmü ¼P-¼ÛGÅ-ˆÛ-ºy¾-wÞGÅ-GP-TÛ¼-zôh-hôm-ºDÞ¼-ºEï¼-HÛÅ-GÅP-zºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ÁÛG-

Page 166: 14 mount-everest-dingri

144

144 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

z®ßGÅ-qºÛ-GÅP-Çoï-Áô¼-bïü M-h¤¼-mÅ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-Ç+ô¼-ŸÛz-ºWâG-¤f¼-xÛm-‚Å-mÅü Çkï-hGï-væ¾-Ç+Ý-zm-Vïm-Í-;-¤VôG-hP.üÇkï-hGï-væ¾-Ç+Ý-VôÅ-¾Þ-¤VôG Gô-ºWô-z-væ¾-Ç+Ý-GZÛÅ-(DôP-n¤-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-¤±m-¤Û-im-)Çtô-VßP-±ï-lô¼ü EãP-qô-ÇeïP-Vïm-q-ÇK¼-GôP-hqôm-HÛ-Ç+Ý-¤Vïh-GÝP-iG-zTÅ-mG-ZïÅ-Tm-hÝ-PôÅ-º²Ûm-HÛÅ-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-ÇKï¼-zTßG-GÛÅ-iG-qôºÛ-ºfz-¯ôh-GbôP-zŸÛm-iÛ-¯h-‚ïh-ˆÛ-»ôh-q-hP-üGŸm-n¤Å-¾-¾Å-;-hP-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-¸ÞP-£ï¾-HÛÅ-iG-qôºÛ-ºfz-¯ôh-hP-G»ô-NåºÛ-ºW¤-zÁh-‚Å-bïü GÅP-zºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-hP-hï-¾Å-ˆP-±zÅ-Vï-zºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-¼G-fzÅ-‚Åü

G®ô-zô-n¤Å-¾-hï-¿e¼-²-iG-Vïm-qôÅ-ºfz-¯ôh-zbP-z-¾-zdïm-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-GmÅ-ÇePÅ-hPôÅ-Xïm-fôm-MãºÛ-hôGÅ-qÅü hï-ÇSôm-FÛ-‚P-„À-ƒP-GÛ-¤-‚m-ŸÛG-hP-ü EãP-qô-z-b-¤-Í-¤hô-hP-DôP-GÛ-¼ôGÅ-q-ŸÛG-zTÅ-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-Ç+ï-zÇk¤Å-mÅ-ÁÛ-z-hP.ü Gô-Wô-hôm-Iâz-Fôm-qºÛ-mP-¤VôPÅ-mÅ-ÁÛü

GmÅ-±ß¾-ºhÛ-n¤Å-fôÅ-Ç+zÅ-ƒG-G»z-hzP-IGÅ-̂ ÛÅ-¤±ôm-V-GŸm-¤ïh-ˆP-¿UGÅ-ÉïP-¾-nô-z ô̧Å-mÅ-Èà¼-z ô̄m-Tm-±ô¼-¤±m-GbÛz-ˆÛÅ-ZïÅ-lÝP-zbP-z-hP.ü Èà¼-z®ôm-Tm-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-®¤-¾-¿UGÅ-ÉïP-z®ßGÅ-qÅ-¸ÛP-V-¾PÅ-Ç+zÅü M-h¤¼-HÛ-iG-h¤G-GÛÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-

Page 167: 14 mount-everest-dingri

145

zôh-¤Û-zTß-hGݺÛ-ÆôG-Áô¼-zü 145

‚Å-bï-±ôGÅ-ºhݺÛ-fôG-±-iÛ-‚Å-q¼ü Eôh-ˆÛÅ-ºhÛ-¿e¼-Èà¼-z¯ôm-Tm-q¼-ZïÅ-lÝP-zbP-z-hP.ü ¿UGÅ-ÉïP-z®ßGÅ-q-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-GP-»Ûm-n¤Å-Gž-zÁh-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü hzP-IGÅ-mÅ-Eôh-±ôÅ-zôh-¼ÛGÅ-mP-DÞ¾-ºG¾-¹-z ô̧-zºÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-zTPÅ- Û̂-»ôhühïºÛ-Vïh-ym-»P-¾ô-GÅÞ¤-®¤-¼ÛP-M-mG-bà-ÇÀôz-IÔ¼-zbP-ü Eïh-±ôÅ-D-mÅ-ljm-qô-hP-ºW¤-qô-uÛ-±ôGÅ-Gż-q¼-zhï-BÛh-»ôh-±ß¾-hP.ü uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-qºÛ-Ç+zÅ-hÝh-ºIô-¾Å-ÇkÝG-qºÛ-º±ô-z-¾ôPÅ-ÅÞ-uh-±ß¾-zÁh-hP-Áôh-¤ÞÅ-ˆP-ü ym-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ-º‚ô¼-bï-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¤fôP-Ç+zÅ-Eôh-±ôÅ-zÁh-q-zŸÛm-z¿eÅ-q-»Ûmü

ÇS¼-hq¾-º‚ô¼-»ôh-¤Dm-n¤Å-¤ïh-q-z ô̧Å-ˆP.ü hq¾-º‚ô¼-¤ïh-¤Dm-n¤Å-hï-¤Þ¼-GmÅ-q-¾Å-hq¾-º‚ô¼-HÛ-zhG-qô¼-Hã¼-¤Û-ºhÝGP¾- ô̄¾-mÛ-ÇSôm-¾Å-ˆP-h;º-z-ŸôGÅ-ÇS-¾PÅ-hP-hGôP-xÛ-Z¾-‚Å-qÅ-ºƒÅ-zÞ-Çeôm-ºƒÅ-fïPÅ-GTÛG-zÇkÝ-D¼-»P-μôP-hP.ü Å-DÞ¾ü IôP-Çkï-zTÅ-ˆÛ-M-¾Å-ºhÝ-º²ô¤Å-ˆÛÅ-Çeôm-ºƒÅ-¾-ÇSôm-¯ÛÅ-ˆÛ-fôm-ºzz-zÇ+ô¼-bï-¤Û-GTÛG-¼ï¼ü ¾ô-GTÛG-¾-ºƒâ-D¾-zTß-®¤-¾Å-vh-ˆÛ-¤ïh-q-hP.ü ºƒâ-D¾-¼ï¼-;Û-¾ô-zTß-zŸÛ-¾Å-¤ïh-q¼-hï-‚ÛPÅ-G¼-ÅôP-¤ïh-q-z¸ô-»Û-ºhÝG-mü zhï-BÛh-ºhÝG-G¤ü ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-ºhÝG hï-mÅ-È-Gô-hôm-dôGÅ-ˆÛ-¼ïhü

Page 168: 14 mount-everest-dingri

146

146 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ºƒôG-q¼-V-zŸG-m-M¾-GTïÅ-uÛ-¤¼-¸ï¼-zºÛ-¤ÛP-ljm-ŸÛG-zbGÅ-mÅü ºƒÛ-¼ï¼-¤¼-;Û-¾ô-zŸÛ-zTß-F¾-¾ïm-HÛ-»ôh-qÅ-hô-zhG-¾-wô¼-¤¼-®¤-¿ËG-GÛ-¤ïh-qºÛ-GmÅ-ÇePÅ-PÅ-¤ÛG-GÛÅ-¤fôP-‚ãP.ü hï¼-zdïm-ŸÛP-ºƒôG-GZÛÅ-;ºÛ-mP-hÝ-±ÛG-Ç+¤-HÛ-zhï-BÛh-¾Å-hôm-hÝ-ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-HÛ-º±ô-z-Gż-q-ºzº-ŸÛG-¾-zdïm-mÅ-Çkôh-hGôÅ-q-hP.ü hPôÅ-»ôh-hPôÅ-¤fôP-GÛ-Mã-¤±m-ºhÛ-n¤Å-¾-zdïmü PÅ-Eïh-±ôÅ-zÁh-qºÛ-Ç+h-V-±ÛG-GTÛG-ˆP-zhïm-q¼-º²Ûm-HÛ-¤ïhü

P-¾-¤±ôm-mü mG-ZïÅ-Çtä-®¤-¤ïh-ˆP-Eôh-±ôÅ-z®ôm-ºWâG-‚Åü M-h¤¼-Eïh-±ôºÛ-Pm-‚ãÅ-μâm-Gb¤-ljm-qô¼-¤Gô-zô-©ôPÅ-mÅ-z®ôm-q-ºGº-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-Èà¼-z¯ôm-Tm-»Ûm-DÞ¾ü ¼P-¤Û¼-¼P-GÛÅ-ºfz-¯ôh-‚-MãºÛ-Pm-G»ôºÛ-ºôG-±ßh-»ôhü hï-¿e-zÞ-PºÛ-ÇoP-z¼-Gbm-mÅ-ºIô-fzÅ-¤ïh-q¼-zdïmü Èà¼-z¯ôm-Tm-q¼-ZïÅ-lÝP-»P-zbP-ŸÛP-¿UGÅ-ÉïP-»P-z®ßGÅ-qÅü Eôh-±ôÅ-P-¾-TÛ-ºhôh-q-‚ôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁhü

M-h¤¼-ºGô-ºFÛh-ˆÛÅ-hzP-IGÅ-DôºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-zÁh-mü Dô-q-hP-qô-M-mG-bà-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-hÝ-zbP-»P-±ß¾-¤fÞm-¤-‚Å-qÅ-zôh-hÝ-xÛ¼-ÇÀôG-q-hP-ü zôh-hÝ-ÇÀïzÅ-mÅ-ˆP-¤Pº-zhG-Vï-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-Mz-bà-¾PÅ-bï-GÝP-Fm-bP-¾-hI¼-º²Ûm-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü z®ôm-DP-hݺP-mG-ZïÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-¤Û-‚ïh-q-¤-¸hü Èà¼-z¯ôm-Tm-¾-lÝP-lïG-hP.ü ¿UGÅ-ÉïP-z®ßGÅ-

Page 169: 14 mount-everest-dingri

147

zôh-¤Û-zTß-hGݺÛ-ÆôG-Áô¼-zü 147

q-ÅôGÅ-mG-ZïÅ-±zÅ-Vïm-ºhÛ-n¤Å-¾-zdïmü Dô-q-¤fº-¤WâG-ÆôG-fôG-GÛ-FÛ¤Å-Vh-¾Å-ºIô-¾¤-¤ïh-TïÅ-¼P-GÛ-zhï-BÛh-»ôh-±h-„ÀôÅ-zbP-PP-ü ¼P-M¾-hP-¼P-¼ÛGÅ-¾-¿ËG-bà-Ÿïm-ŸÛP-Pô-GmôPÅ-¤Û-hGôÅ-qºÛ-zôh-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-ˆÛ-wÞ¾-‚ãP-hqº-zô-hzP-IGÅ-DôP-h¤¼-GÅôh-zbP-ü

ZÛm-ŸÛG-fï¼-Gï-GbôP-¤Dm-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-P-¾-M¾- ï̄-z-Í-DôG-ÁïÅ-¼z-z¸P-qôÅ-z Þ̧P-Ço-mÅ-Dô-¼P-zhï-qô-»Ûmü ¾ôzÅ-¼ôGÅ-zÁh- Û̂-ºhÝGTïÅ-¾m-vhü Í-DôG-z®ôm-hÝ-º±ßh-q-hï-PºÛ-„Àô-»Þ¾-¾Å-ºhÅ-q-ŸÛG-‚ãP-¾-DôP-GÛÅ-P-±ôºÛ-¾Å-hôm-zOæz-¤Ûm-ÁïÅ-¤-‚ãP-ü P-hP-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ-IôÅ-‚Å-bï-Ç+zÅ-¼ï-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞÅ-fzÅ- Û̂Å-Í-DôG-¾-¸Å-Bï¾-z-hP-Ç+zÅ-¼ï-fï¼-Gï-z-zMãh-zÇ+ݼ-HÛ-»ôhü fïPÅ-ÁÛG-M-¾Å-¤ïh-Ç+zÅ-Í-DôG-ÁïÅ-¼z-z¸P-qôÅ-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ¼ü Dô-¼P-hqº-ºz¼-hÝ-º‚ô¼-z-hP-iG-Gmôm-‚ïh-qºÛ-Ç+zÅ-ºDï¾-zÅ-hôm-Ço-GTÛG-zOæzÅ-¤-fÞz-q-hP-ü »Û-Gï-¤ï¼-zÆïGÅ-bï-¼P-ZÛh-ÇSôm-xãG-º±ô-Ç+zÅ-BÛh-qô-‚ãP-z¼-zdïm-»P-zB¼-ƒôÅ-±ß¾-zÁh-qÅü z¸ÞP-Ço¼-zB¾-z-hP-¾ô-zTô-¿S-FÛ¤Å-Vh-Çt¼-Ç+ô¼-zÁhü Í-DôG-ÁïÅ-¼z-z¸P-qô-w¼-zBôh-hÝÅ-ÇezÅ-ZïÅ-ˆÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-ºyh-q-¾Å-DôP-GÛÅ-¾Å-hôm-zOæz-Mã¼-ym-»Ûh-VïÅ-G®P-¤-»ôh-q-hP-ü xÛÅ-ÅÞ-»P-Dô-¼P-„Àô-fG-Vôh-qôÅ-ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-hP-¾ïm-‚ïh-q-¾Å-̄ ôh-½‰ôG-GP-»P-zÇÀPÅ-¤-‚ãP-ü GŸm-

Page 170: 14 mount-everest-dingri

148

148 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

HÛÅ-¾ÞG-¿e¼-JÀïm-q¼-¯Û-zºÛ-¤Û-hï-uÛ-¾ô- 1979 ¾ô¼-hqº-P¼-¿km-qºÛ-PP-ü z¸ÞP-Ço-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-GÁïGÅ-q-¼ïhü

¼ÛG-GmÅ-Gż-zXï-Vïm-qôºÛ-xôGÅ-zÇkô¤Å- Û̂-¾Å-ºGݾ-Çtï¾-Ç+zÅ-bï-uÛ-¾ô- 1970 ¹- 5 ±ïÅ- 5 ZÛmü z®ôm-DP-ÍP-GZÛÅ-qºÛ-DôPÅ-GbôGÅ-z®ôm-q-hP.ü ¾Å-¤Û-»ôh-±h-z¸ÞP-Ço-¼Þ-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-zÇkÝ-Ç+ôP-‚-Ç+zÅü z¸ÞP-Ço-¼Þ-Vïm-DôPÅ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-G®ô-zô-zm-Vïm-Í-;-væ¾-Ç+ÝÅ-G®ôÅ-¤Û-zŸÛ-hP.ü Vß-¤hô-¼Þ-Vïm-HÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-G®ô-zô-z=-ÁÛÅ-±ï-¼ÛP-Tm-zTÅ-¤Û-zMhü v-¾ÞP-mÅ-hï-ÇSôm-xG-¤²ôh-wÛG-wÛG-GÅôh-¤Dm-zÞ-Í-ZôG-zTÅ-Eôm-Çkô¤-¤Û-zTß-GÅÞ¤-h¤¼-GÅôh-GbôP-zºÛ-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-º±ôGÅü

¼Û->ÀâP-G»Å-G»ôm-f¤Å-Th-M-»Û-iG-h¤G-Gô-¤±ôm-fôGÅ-q-Á-ÇeG-GÛÅ-zÇ+ô¼-ŸÛP-ü ÆôG-fôG-GbP-MãºÛ-¤Û-zTß-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-¾G-GZÛÅ-fG-qÅ-Mz-bà-zTÛPÅ-q-hP-ü Mz-bà-G ï̧¼-zºÛ-ÁÛP-‚P-fôG-ÆôG-fôG-TïÅ-ƒÛÅ-mÅ-¤Û-¤P-¾-D-Gbh-mÅ-¤hÝm-hÝ-zŸG-Çeï-¤Û-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-mG-ZïÅ-Pô-vh-qü Çkï-hGï-z-Vô-¾ô-væ¾-Ç+Ý-¾-ÇSôm-HÛ-¾ô-±h-fôG-ZïÅ-q-ºw¼-¤-¾ô-zTô-¿S-hP-ü GÝP-ƒG-væ¾-Ç+Ý-¾-z®ôm-Vh-¾ô-ZÛ-ÁݺÛ-fôG-ÇÀ¼-¾ô-zTß-Çt¼-bï-zÇkô¤Å-¾ô-IPÅ-ÅÞ¤-Tß-MÅ-zTh-‚Å-q-hP.ü Ço-D¼-ï̄-q-zÇem-q-hGï-¾ïGÅ-ÇSôm-hÝ-¾ô-IPÅ-zTß-GÅÞ¤-fôG-ÇÀ¼-¾ô-zTô-¿S-zÇom-

Page 171: 14 mount-everest-dingri

149

zôh-¤Û-zTß-hGݺÛ-ÆôG-Áô¼-zü 149

bï-zÇkô¤Å-¤Û-¾ô-Zï¼-zMh-¼ÛP-z®ôm-Vh-zbP-ü M-¾Å-ºGô-ºFÛh-ˆÛÅ-ÆôG-fôG-GbP-Mã-n¤Å-zôh-¼P-BôP-¿YôPÅ-¤fô-¼Û¤-¤Û-h¤PÅ-FÛ¤Å-DP-mÅ-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-ü Vß-±ôh-Ç+¼-V-®¤-¤Û-ºHPÅ-z¼-ÆôG-fôG-GbôP-hGôÅü ŸïÅ-iÛ¾-zOGÅ-¸Ûm-XïÅ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-fôG-ÆôG-fôG-bà-GbôP-źÛ-Gô¤-q-ZÛ-ÁÝ-®¤-HÛ-źÛ-Å-hôP-ŸÛG-GÛ-¤hÝm-FÛhü

zôh-ˆÛ-hqº-zô-z=-ÁÛÅ-±ï-¼ÛP-GÛÅ-¾ÞÅ-ˆÛÅ-Gm¤-¤VôPÅ-MG-GÛm-Ç+h-ˆÛÅ-ºzôh-¯ÛÅ-Ç+zÅü Mz-bà-»ôh-qºÛ-M-h¤G-GÛÅ-fG-qÅ-Ç+ï-zÇk¤Å-mÅ-ºzôh-O-fôm-¤-fÞzü hï-mÅ-ÆôG-fôG-GbôP-MãºÛ-Vß-±ôh-¸Ûm-q-hP-M-h¤G-¼Þ-hqôm-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-G®ôÅü h¤G-¤ÛÅ-¤ï-¤hº-ºwPÅ-mÅ-¼P-¼ÛGÅ-hqº-zô-zTß-GÅÞ¤-¿Ëm-TÛG-h¤¼-GÅôh-zbP-mÅ-Å-hôP-hï¼-¤Z¤-hÝ-Ç~Åü ºWÛGÅ-hPPÅ-Vï-zºÛ-±ôGÅ-ºhݺÛ-Q¤Å-¸Û¾-HÛÅ-Gô-ºWô-Í-T¾-hô¼-¤ºÛ-mP-®ôG-q-Áô¼-z-hP-ü ¤Û-ºGº-ÁÅ-GTÛm-q-¼P-ż-Áô¼ü

z Þ̧P-ÇoºÛ-h¤¼-GÅôh- Û̂-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-HïÅ-mÅ-¤¼-¾ôG-hÝÅ-¾¤-z¼-¤²ô-ÇKôP-z-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞÅü P-±ôºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-Çoï-ºVô¼-m-hï-¼ÛP-GÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-ºhÛ-¾Å-¤-ºhÅ-qÅ-h-¿e-mÅ-ºV¼-GŸÛ-n¤Å-hô¼-mÅ-ƒôÅ-m-¤-GbôGÅ-ºIô-Å-hï-G-¼ïh-TïÅ-zXôhü hï¼-ym-HÛÅ-ºfz-¯ôh-‚Å-m-¾ÞÅ-ÆôG-GbôP-¤Û-hGôÅ-q-¤Û-ÆÛh-qÅü uÛ¼-zôh-¤Û-ÆôG-„ÀôÅ-

Page 172: 14 mount-everest-dingri

150

150 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zbP-z-»ôPÅ-hP-¿ËG-q¼-uÛ-¾ô- 1949 hP.ü 1959-1969 zTÅ-¾-¤Û-ÆôG-G-±ôh-zbP-ü hï-hG-mÛ-zôh-¼P-hzP-¼P-z®m-Dô-mºÛ-Vïh-zbP-z-Á-ÇeG-»Ûmü

P-±ôºÛ-GÅP-zºÛ-±ôGÅ-q-»P-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-ºIâz-¤Ûm-¾-¤-¿eôÅ-q¼-zôh-¼P-hzP-¼P-z®m-¾Å-ºGݾ-HÛ-V-Aïm-ŸÛG-bà-ºHã¼-HÛ-¼ïhü OÛG-º²âGÅ- Û̂-Çoï-ºVô¼-¤Û-ÆÛh-¾-M-¾-Áô¼-±ï-¯-zºÛ-±ôGÅ-qºÛ-GôP-zÞºÛ-mÝÅ-q-»Þm-GmÅ-xÛ¼ü ¤Û-ÆôG-GbôP-z-ÅôGÅ-fzÅ-±ß¾-Ço-¤P-Çtï¾-fÞzüM-GŸÝP-GÛ-‚ïh-±ß¾-ºhÛ-Gmº-Gb¤-hÝü ¼-zÅh-mÅ-¾ÞG-ºh¼ü ŸïÅ-q-zŸÛm-»Ûm-qÅü ºWÛGÅ-ÇoP-GÛÅ-OÛG-±ßGÅ-ºfÞÅ-Áô¼-GbôP-¤Û-¼ÞP.ü¼P-¼ïÅ-ÇS¼-¾Å-¿ËG-qºÛ-mm-G¸z-Vïm-qô-‚-hGôÅ-q-hP.ü OÛG-¤Û-GŸm-¾ºP-hï-hôm-zXôh-hGôÅü fzÅ-ÇkÝG-Å-mÅ-G¾-ÆÛh-OÛG-Çoï-Áô¼-m-‚ïh-Gbï-ym-GTÛG-qÞ-¯ÛÅ-vôh-hGôÅ-q-¾Å-¤Û-¤P-qô-¤Z¤-iâh-‚Å-m-hôm-¤ïh-¤Û-ÆôG-Iôm-VïÅ-¯-zºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-¾-Gmôh-Bôm-fïzÅ-ˆÛ-¼ïhü

P-±ôÅ-hq¾-ºz¼-hÝ-zbP-zºÛ-wô-Z-hôm-¤-zOæzÅ-q¼-º²Ûm-z Þ̧P-GÛÅ-¾ô-±h-zTô-¿S-FÛ¤Å-Vh-wôGÅ-q-hP-ü z®ôm-DP-GÛ-xÛ-¼ô¾-¤Û-hP-ºƒï¾-z-‚ïh-fÞz-ˆP-GŸÛ-M-Vï-ŸÛP-wÞGÅ-GhïPÅ-±ôh-½‰ïh-qºÛ-¾Å-GŸÛ-z¯¤Å-¤-fÞz-qü ¿ËG-q¼-M-G¼-mÅ-»ôP-zºÛ-¤Û-hP-ºƒï¾-z-¤-fÞz-q-ÅôGÅ-¤hô¼-m-ÇSôm-hÝ-Çtï¾-zºÛ-fzÅ-‚ãÅ-n¤Å-¾¤-¿ËôPÅ-‚ãP-¤ïhü

Page 173: 14 mount-everest-dingri

151

zôh-¤Û-zTß-hGݺÛ-ÆôG-Áô¼-zü 151

h-¿e-¤Û-ºGº-zÅh-q-¾-zdïm-mÅ-P-±ô-ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-‚Å-m-¼P-ZÛh-GTÛG-qô-f¼-®¤-¾Åü zôh-M¾-Dz-hP-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-¾-wm-fôGÅ-GP-»P-¤Û-»ôP-üGŸm-P-±ôÅ-º±z-º±ßz-ˆÛÅ-IÛ-hP.¤hÝP.ü Çe-¼ï-ÅôGÅ-zïh-uh-hï-iG-ºfz-‚Å-mü P-±ôºÛ-D-Gbh-M-h¤¼-mÛ-Gm¤-Iâ-hP.ü ¿UGÅ-Fz-ºDô¼-¾ô| ¤ï-NôGÅ-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛ-zhG-qô-¼ïhü

hï-zÅ-P-±ôÅ-mP-FÛ¤Å-h¤-ÆâP-hP-PP-ÇKÝG-xÛ¼-ºfïm-‚Å-bïüGô-Ç+zÅ-ÇKÝG-Mã-ÁÛm-bà-G¾-Vïü ŸïÅ-zÁh-qÅü zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞÅ-»Ûh-¾-ºfh-hï-¤Gô-zô-¿UôGÅ-¿UôGÅ-‚ïhü

hï-ÇSôm-M¾-¯ï-z-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛh-¼ïÅ-G¸º-ZÛ-¤¼-P-±ôºÛ-¤hÝm-»ôP-Ç+zÅ-ym-¾-vh-qºÛ-&GôP-Å-¤VôG-GÛ-Ç+Ý-q¼-hï-P-GZÛÅ-v-¾ÞP-hÝ-º‚ô¼-z-hP-PÅ-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ-¾-vhü »P-hï-XïÅ-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞÅ-hh-¤ôÅ-Vïm-qôÅ-ÇK¤-mP-hÝ-¤Vôh-¤ï-wÞ¾-z-ÅôGÅ-‚Å-q¼ü z®ôm-¤Û-GŸm-mÅ-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞºÛ-ÇK¤-¾-¤ï-ºz¼-HÛ-ºhÝG-TïÅ-Gô-‚ãP-zÅü ym-HÛÅ-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ¼ü Eïh-¼P-hh-Åï¤Å-‚Å-q-¾ïGÅ-ˆP-JÀïm-dGÅ-hï-ºi-¤-‚ïhü GŸm-HÛÅ-ÇK¤-ÇSôG-zÁï¼-HÛÅ-Ç+Ý-q¼-fôm-m-¼P-ºwÞP-GŸm-z½ÀG-»ôP-GÛ-¼ïhü TïÅ-Ç+Ý-q¼-GÅP-Z¼-‚ïh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-„ÀP-‚-zbôm-q-»Ûmü

Page 174: 14 mount-everest-dingri

152

152 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zTß-GTÛG

¾ïm-qºô-Å-¾-¿ËàP-z-hP-üŸÛP-¾Å-b-=ï-¾-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-ü

(1970-9ü 1978)

zôh-¿YôPÅ-ZÛm-¼ïºÛ-±GÅ-q¼-fôG-uÛ-¾ô- 1971 ¹- 9 ±ïÅ-13 ZÛm-¾ïm-qºô-¾ôG-uôh-qÅ-¼P-GÛ-GÅP-zºÛ-»ÛG-V-xÛ-M¾-¾-vh-q-hP.ü ½ÀzÅ-Vïm-G®ô-º²Ûm-¤ºô-®ï-bàP-¿+ôG-GÅôh-GbôP-MãºÛ-IôÅ-Pm-zÁ¤Å-qü ¼P-M¾-¾-Mz-Gbôh-ˆÛÅ-¼P-º±¤Å-Gm¤-Iâ¼-ŸÝGÅ-bï-xÛ-ÅôG-hzm-bà¼-Èm-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-Å-GmÅ-hï¼-Gm¤-Iâ-¸G-Çeï-ÁÛ-z-¼ïhüDô-q-ÁÛ-»P-DôºÛ-¾¤-¾ÞGÅ-±P-¤¼-hGG-q¼-MG-hGôÅü ¾ïm-qºô-h¤G-hôm-hP-hïz-ƒÛ-z¼-¤DÅ-q-¤-¼ïhü h-z¼-Dô-qÅ-μâm-z¸ô-‚Å-q-Á-ÇeG-¼ïhü Dô-qÅ-Gż-zXïºÛ-fôG-„Àô-IôÅ-hP.ü ºfz-IôGÅü zÇÀz-q-Lm-qü ‚Å-XïÅ-»ôh-¤Dm-ŸÛG-»Ûm-zXôh-ˆP.ü hï-mÛ-zhïm-q-¤Ûmü

Page 175: 14 mount-everest-dingri

153

¾ïm-qºô-Å-¾-¿ËàP-z-hP-ü ŸÛP-¾Å-b-=ï-¾-ÇÀôz-¢ôP.ü 153

M¾-mP-h¤G-ºFâG-Ç+zÅ-Dô-q-»Ûh-fP-Vh-qÅ-¤ºôÅ-»ÛG-fôG-mÅ-¤ï-ÇeG-VßP-PÞÅ-ÇtP-¿YôPÅ-ÆïG-fÞzü TïÅ-hqï-¢¼-zºÛ-ÇÀôz-GÅô-ŸÛG-zMz-mÅ-Dô-q¼-Åï¤Å-zÇ+ݾ-‚Å-»ôhü TïÅ-ºDôh-qÅ-hï-ÇSôm-¾ïºÞ-ɺô-VÛºÛ-Gbô¼-w¤-zbP-zºÛ-±z-bà-G®ô-º²Ûm-¤ºôºÛ-„Àô-¤fÞm-hP-ºfz-IôGÅü h¤G-hôm-¤DÅ-q-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-=âºÞ-ŸÛ-GŸôm-q¼-¾ïm-qºô-zÇ+ôÅ-q-hP-ü »P-h-Ç+zÅ-¾ïm-qºô-¾-hGG-q-hï-¿e¼-zMz-q-mÛ-GÝP-Fm-bP-¾-»Ûh-zdm-TÛ-ŸÛG-»ôh-lj¤-q-hP-ü z®ôm-q-¤P-Vï-zÅ-hGG-q-MG-Ç+zÅ-¾ïm-qºô-¾-‚Å-XïÅ-¤ïh-TïÅ-zXôh-q¼-Dô-q-GÝP-Fm-bP-GÛ-=âºÞ-ŸÛºÛ-Gô-GmÅ-º²Ûm-¥ôP-z-hP-ü h¤G-hôm-¤DÅ-q¼-DÅ-¤-„ÀP-m-h¤G-hôm-HÛ-hïz-n¤Å-GÝP-Fm-bP-mÅ-hq¼-ºhïzÅ-‚Å-q-ŸÛG-»Ûm-qÅü P-±ôÅ-TÛ-Áôh-hGôÅ-¤-ÁïÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁhü

¾ïm-qºô-=âºÞ-ŸÛºÛ-Gô-GmÅ-ˆÛ-hzP-V-hP-ü JÀ-wôGÅ-ÅôGÅ-¤fÞm-Aïm-¤-º²ô¤Å-q-¤ïh-ˆP-¼P-ZÛh-¤Û-GTÛG-GÛ-zhï-BÛh-¾-¿eôÅ-¤ïh-M-mG-M-Vï-¤Û-¤P-GÛ-zhï-ÇkÝG-¾-zŤ-GŸÛGÅ-ˆÛÅ-¤ºôºÛ-GŸÝP-ÆÛh-¤Gô-dÛP-ÇÀôG-fzÅ-‚Å-±ß¾-P-±ô-z®ôm-qºÛ-mP-mÅ-±ôh-hqG-‚Åü

±GÅ-q¼-fôG-Mã-¤±m-hï-hG-¾-zdïm-ÉP-Èh-¤Û-¤P-GÛÅ-»ÛG-Vïm-±GÅ-q¼-¢¼-bïü P-±ôºÛ-bP-¾-zXïh-Ph-Vï-zºÛ-±-zºÛ-mh-GŸÛ-wôG-ºhÝG-qÅü EÛ-FG-;-bô-¼-GP-¤Gô¼-‚ô-mÅ-hï-XïÅ-Vß-IP-¤ô-ŸÛG-

Page 176: 14 mount-everest-dingri

154

154 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

GÛÅ-z=âÅ-m-¼ÛG-q-Gž-®¤-¤Û-»ôP-P¤-ŸïÅ-zÁh-»ôhü TïÅ-P-±ô-hï¼-hGG-q-zMz-zTßG

uÛ-¾ô- 1971 ¾ô-¤WâG-ym-DÐ-b¼-ÁÛP-GTôh-q¼-zbP-ü hGÝm-hÝÅ-»Ûm-Aïm-IôGÅ-qô-h;¼-¤Gôm-ºƒôG-Å-mÅ-¼ôP-hÝ-ÇtôÅ-ºhÝG-qü P-±ô-ÁÛP-GTôh-Ç+zÅ-GbàG-q¼-»ôP-mÅ-GmÅ-±ß¾-zÁh-hômü D-bѼ-¼Þ-DG-GTÛG-hP-ü EÛ¤-hÝh-iâG-Tß-¼ï-¿Sü ¤Û-IPÅ-ÅÞ¤-zM-¿ËG-®¤-»ôhü ¾ô-GTÛG-¼ÛP-hÝh-ºIô-¿e-zÞºÛ-P¾-z-uh-hï-‚ãP-zºÛ-Çeôm-ºƒÅ-mÅ-M-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-F¾-Ço-±ôGÅ-zÇkÝ-zü hqï¼-mü

hP-qôü M¾-GTïÅ-GŸÝP-ºƒâ-hP.ü GZÛÅ-qü ±ôP-ºƒâüGÅÞ¤-qü ¤Û-¤P-¾-fôm-Bïh-¾-GŸÛGÅ-qºÛ-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-ºƒâ-wôGÅ-vôh-q-hP.ü ¿ËG-¤-¸Þ¼-GÅôG-‚Å-bï-¤ÞG-Bôz-ÇSôm-ºGôG-hP-h¤G-ºFâG-I-OÛG-GZÛÅ-¾-ºWôG-GÛ-»ôhü

¾ô-GTÛG-¼ÛP-vh-qºÛ-¸-ºƒâ-mÅ-¤Û-¤P-GÛÅ-¸-¤DÅ-uôh-¤DÅ-‚Å-ˆP-ºhP-GÛ-¤ïh-q¼-zdïmü uÛ-DP-mÅ-ÇS-G»¼-‚Å-q-XïÅ-¾ôºÛ-wôGÅ-mÅ-BÛm-±z-zÇkÝ-¾ïm-‚-»Û-ºhÝG ¹-¼ï¼-¤Û-¼ï¼-W-M-¤-GP.hP-±Ð-M-¤-GP-hP-xïh-vôh-q-hP-ü ¤Û-¼ï¼-¾ô-GTÛG-GÛ-Hôm-q¼-¼Å-¤Û-^¼-¿S-¼ï-fôz-q-Å-DÞ¾-HÛ-±ôP-DP-mÅ-±ôP-hÝ-»ôP-ü ŸÛP-q¼-Á-¤¼-mÛ-¤ïhü

w-¤-¾Å-;¼-ºIô-Ç+zÅ-yâ-GÝ-¤¾-º‚¼-EÛ¤-hÝ-ºWôG-»Þ¾-¤ïh-

Page 177: 14 mount-everest-dingri

155

¾ïm-qºô-Å-¾-¿Ë àP-z-hP-ü ŸÛP-¾Å-b-=ï-¾-ÇÀ ôz-¢ôP.ü 155

TÛP-ü ¤Z¤-ºEï¼-‚Å-bï-¾Å-źÛ-¸Þ¼-ŸÛG-bà-yâ-GÝ-n¤Å-zŸG-hGôÅ-ÇezÅü ¾Å-ƒï¾-HÛÅ-yâ-Gݼ-¤ÛG-¿e-¾ôP-¤-‚ãP-z¼-yâ-GÝ-ºGºÛ-¤ÛG-DÐ-bÅ-zbôm-qºP-‚ãP-ü

ÇÀôz-yâG-n¤Å-¾-ÇÀôz-xïh-¾Å-xïh-TïÅ-¤ÛP-zbGÅ-qºÛ-ZÛm-xïh-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-hP.ü ZÛm-xïh-¾Å-;-‚Å-bï-M-»ÛG-hP-¤ºô-¿e-zºÛ-fôG-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-hP-ü ŸÛP-¾Þh-GÅôG-Mã-¼ïhü VP-źÛ-¾ô-±h-¸Ûm-qºÛ-zôh-GŸôm-n¤Å-¾-M-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-VôG-¤Vm-¤-fôz-z¼-VP-Å-zMG-¤Û-VôG-TÛP-ü G¾-bï-¼P-¤ôÅ-GZïm-OÛG-‚Å-m-z®ôm-Vh-¾ô-GÅÞ¤-GbôP-GÛ-¼ïhü

I¾-¼Û¤-»ôh-¤Dm-¤Pº-zhG-GÛ-yâ-Gݼ-¾Å-ºGݾ-¼ï-Çtï¾-Ç+zÅ-¤Pº-yâG-TïÅ-ºfz-¯ôh-GbôP-z-hP.ü yâ-GÝ-mP-DÞ¾-hݺP-¾ôG-uôh-q-¼ïh-TïÅ-ÇkP-¸ÞG-‚ïhü ¾ô-m-zTô-zMh-mÅ-zŸÛ-zTß¼-Åôm-qºÛ-wô-¤ô-Eh-¤ïh-n¤Å-»Þ¾-h¤G-GÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-mP-º²â¾-hGôÅ.q-hP-ü M-h¤¼-iG-h¤G-GÛÅ-»Þ¾-h¤G-n¤Å-¾-¾ô-GTÛG-¾-¤ï-¤hº-ºwïm-±ß¾-ÅôGÅ-iG-ºfz-ÇÀôz-uôP-fïPÅ-GZÛÅ-¼ï-vôh-q-¼ïhü ŸÛP-ºƒÛP-DôPÅ-Û̂-m-GŸôm-n¤-ºHã¼-¾ïGÅ-q-ºGº-¾Å-I¾-¼Û¤-qºÛ-m-GŸôm-n¤Å-»Þ¾-h¤G-mP-¯-z-mÅ-º±ßh-ˆÛ-¤ïhü TïÅ-Å-DÞ¾-hïºÛ-GmÅ-ÇePÅ-n¤Å-ºIï¾-zÁh-MÅ-q¼-GmP-‚ãP-ü

uÛ-¾ô- 1972 ¾ô¼-ŸÛP-¾Å-bØ-=ï¼-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-‚ïh-hGôÅ-

Page 178: 14 mount-everest-dingri

156

156 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

qºÛ-¾Å-ºGݾ-±-±-ºÞ¼-ºÞ¼-HÛÅ-Çtï¾-bïü I¾-¼Û¤-ºfz-¯ôh-h¤-qô¼-z¸ÞP-mÅ-bØ-=ï-¿e¼-HÛ-μôP-Ez-Gh¾-GbôP-z-hP.ü GŸôm-mÝ-ÁïÅ-»ôm-Tm-IôP-GÅïz-¾-xÛm-bï-IôP-Eï¼-hP-IôP-GÅïz-Èï-zG-¤ïh-q-z¸ô-hGôÅ-qü ŸÛP-q-hP-z ô̧-q-GZÛÅ- Û̂-º±ô-z-Èï-zG-¤ïh-q-z ô̧-zºÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-fôG-ÇÀôz-Çeôm-q-Pô-¤Å-¾G-q-ºGݾü GôP-ºôG-GZÛÅ-Èï-zG-¤ïh-q-z¸ô-hGôÅ-qºÛ-¾Å-ºGݾ-Çtï¾-Ç+zÅ-zôh-¼P-BôP-¿YôPÅ-mÅ-Å-DÞ¾-IôP-±ô-z¼ü ŸÛP-¾Å-bØ-=ï¼-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-‚Å-mÅ-fôm-Bïh-ÇS-¾ô-¾Å-¿kz-GTÛG-ºw¼-hGôÅ-qºÛ-iÛ¾-zOGÅ-±GÅ-ÁôG-hP.ü ½ÀâP-ºyÛm-GZÛÅ-fôG-mÅ-‚Å-q-¿e¼ü uÛ-Ez-hP-uÛ-Ez-hz¼-hP-ü μôP-hP-μôP-hz¼ü Å-DÞ¾-hP-Å-DÞ¾-hz¼ü ¤Û-ÇKï¼-hP.ü ¤Û-ÇKï¼-hz¼-zTÅ-¾-fôm-Bïh-ºIm-zÇkݼ-zbP-ü

hï-»P-¼P-zŸÛm-HÛ-º‚ãP-zºÛ-ºHã¼-ºIôÅ-hP.ü hÝÅ-ˆÛ-ºwô-ºHã¼-¾-¿eôÅ-¤-hGôÅ-q¼-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¾Å-ºGݾ-zHÛÅ-q-Dô-mÅ-Çeôm-ºƒÅ-z¸P-fôm-‚-hGôÅ-q-hP.ü M-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-ºV¼-GŸÛ-zbôm-q-¿e¼-±P-¤Å-±h-¾Å-ºhÅ-qºÛ-P¾-¯ô¾-HÛ-h;º-z-zOæzÅ-ˆP.ü h-hÝP-M¾-w¤-HÛ-h‚ï-z-xï-Çeï-P¾-¯ô¾-ºIm-zÇkݼ-¼¤ü h¼-V-h¤¼-qôºÛ-ºIm-zÇkݼ-ŸïÅ-¤ÛP-zbGÅ-qºÛ-¾Å-mÝÅ-Vï-ÁôÅ-¾-zhÝm-¼ïºÛ-¾Å-;ºÛ-¤WâG-Çkô¤-ż-G¸ïPÅ-dGÅ-h¼-V-h¤¼-qô-ŸÛG-vôhü

Page 179: 14 mount-everest-dingri

157

¾ïm-qºô-Å-¾-¿ËàP-z-hP-ü ŸÛP-¾Å-b-=ï-¾-ÇÀôz-¢ôP.ü 157

xôGÅ-GTÛG-mÅ-Vz-ÆÛh-ˆÛ-fôG-mÅ-ºWÛGÅ-ÇoP-zÇ+ݾ-bï-@P-»Ûm-qºÛ-I¾-¼Û¤-ºfz-¯ôh-h¤-qô¼-z¸ÞP-hGôÅ-ŸïÅü I¾-¼Û¤-ºfz-ô̄h-‚Å-bï-P¾-̄ ô¾-mÝÅ-ÁÝGÅ-Ÿm-q-n¤Å-¾-ºfz-̄ ôh-GbôP-hGôÅü Ç+zÅ-¼ï-Å-V-±h-¾Å-ºhÅ-q¼-±h-GŸÛ-z¸ôÅ-bï-ZÛm-GTÛG-¾-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-Iâz-q-‚ïh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-z;º-zbP-zü WÛ-¿e¼-ºzh-qÅ-zOæzÅ-ˆP-¤-±¼-z¼-ZÛm-ºGº-ºGô¼-»P-¾Å-JÀ-ZÛm-GTÛG-¤-GbôGÅ-vôh-ˆÛ-¤ïhü

HP-hP-¼Û-PôÅü w-zôP-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛ-fôG-ŸÛP-¾Å-bØ-=ï-¾-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-»Û-Gï-ƒÛÅ-»ôhü m¤-»P-zOæz-¤Û-fÞz-qºÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-ŸÛG-GÛ-Vïh-¤ÛºÛ-mÝÅ-q-¾Å-Vï-Vï¼-zL¾-zºÛ-P¾- ô̄¾-ÁÝGÅ-VïÅ-¾Å-¤Û-w¾-Vï-z-ÇKݼ-qô-hP.ü @P-q-hP-¾G-qºÛ-±ÛGÅ-n¤Å-ºEôG-q-Á-ÇeG-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ü ¾Å-¤ÛºÛ-º±ô-z-mÛ-M-h¤¼-HÛ-hÝh-ºIô-¾Å-Ÿm-q-»ôh-q-hqï¼-m| d-iï¾-¼ï¼-¹-GTÛG-¾-ºƒâ-;Û-¾ô- 45 hP.ü wG-q-¼ï¼-¹-GTÛG-¾-ºƒâ-;Û-¾ô- 22 vôh-ˆP.ü ¾Å-¤Û-¼ï¼-¹-GTÛG-¾-ºƒâ-;Û-¾ô- 19¾Å-¤Û-vôh-q-¤-¸hü M-¼ÛGÅ-¾Å-¤Û-n¤Å-¾-¹-¼ï¼-Á-M-¤-GZÛÅ-¼ï-vôh-ˆP-P-±ô-zôh-¤Û-n¤Å-¾-M-h¤¼-HÛ-hÝÅ-Vïm-Ç+zÅü wG-Á-ym-®¤-¼ï-vôh-q-¾Å-Mãm-hÝ-Á-¤¼-mÛ-¤ÛG-¤fôP-®¤-¤ïhü

¾Å-ºGݾ-hï-uÛ-¾ô- 1978 z¼-zÇ+ݾ-Ç+zÅ-zôh-¤Û-mh-¤m¼-hP.ü hÝÅ-¤Ûm-ºVÛ-Aïm-hÝ-Hã¼-q-ÅôGÅ-IPÅ-¤ïh-‚ãP-ü hqï¼-mü ¾Å-

Page 180: 14 mount-everest-dingri

158

158 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¤Û-±-ÇKP-zÇem-q-±h-GŸÛ-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-¾Å-;-¤-±¼-zÅ-bàh-=P-¤hÝm-hÝ-zÇkh-mÅ-ZÛm-¤±m-hïh-mÅ-¾Å-zÇ+ݾ-zÅ-mh-¤m¼-‚ãP-Çeï-IôPÅüGP-¿e¼-Çeôm-¾Å-Ç+zÅ-Vß-±ôh-zTß-iâG-®¤-¾Å-;-‚ïh-hGôÅ-qÅ-h-mÛ-GÅôm-qô¼-¾PÅ-Mã-¤ïh-lj¤-Çeï-Z¾-»P-ÅP-ZÛm-zhï-fP-PP-¾PÅ-fÞzüÇkÝG-fÞz-q¼-¤Û-ŸïÅ-q-hï-»-¤±m-Vïü

M-h¤¼-M¾-Dz-ˆÛ-Pô-zô-mÛ-ŸÛP-qºÛ-I¾-¼Û¤-HÛÅ-©P-GŸÛ-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü z¸ô-zºÛ-I¾-¼Û¤-HÛÅ-ºGô-FÛh-hï-z¸ô-ŸÛP-¤Z¤-£ï¾-HÛ-M¾-Dz-TÛG-»Ûm-q-hP.ü M¾-ÆÛh-uÛ-Ez-DP-GÛ-ÆÛh-„Àôm-GŸôm-q-ym-»ÞP-DÞÅ-»ÛÅ-ŸÛP-¾Å-bØ-=ï-ÁÛÅ-»P-hÝ-z®ßGÅ-bïü hï¼-ºƒâ-hP-hPÞ¾üŸÛP-¾Å-ˆÛ-ºyâ¾-ºDô¼-Ço-±ôGÅ-¼ôGÅ-Bô¼-‚Å-q-hP-ü m¤-Mãm-M¾-Dz-ˆÛ-hzP-V-±P-¤-¤Û-¤P-GÛ-¾G-bà-»ôh-TïÅ-zXôh-qºÛ-M-GŸÝP-GÛ-ÆÛh-„Àôm-GTÛG-GÛÅ-‚-zM-ºÞ¼-lô-GTÛG-GÛÅ-hïh-q-zŸÛmü M-mG-z®m-ºôG-GmÅ-qºÛ-¤Û-¤P-±P-¤-P¾-¯ô¾-¾-hïh-TÛP-ü Gż-ºHã¼-HÛ-zMãh-¾¤-DG-mÅ-Å-zôm-ºƒâ-M-¤-GP-¾-fôm-Bïh-ºƒÅ-zÞ-M-¤-zTß-yG-‚ãP-±ß¾-Ez-zOGÅ-hP-ºIï¤Å-Çtï¾-»P-»P-‚Åü bØ-=ï-M¾-mP-GÛ-fôm-Bïh-¤ÛG-hqï-‚ïh-»Þ¾-±h-GŸÛ-¤fô-ÁôÅ-ÁÛG-¾-zŸG-Çeï-¤Û-¤P-GÛ-P¾-¯ô¾-HÛÅ-fôm-Bïh-bØ-=ï-¿e¼-±h-GŸÛ-¾ôm-q-‚-hGôÅü ŸïÅ-zXôh-q-mÛ-M-VïºÛ-¤Û-¤P-n¤Å-P¾-¯ô¾-¤m¼-GTôh-ºôG-¯-¤ïh-z¸ô-

Page 181: 14 mount-everest-dingri

159

¾ïm-qºô-Å-¾-¿ËàP-z-hP-ü ŸÛP-¾Å-b-=ï-¾-ÇÀôz-¢ôP.ü 159

MãºÛ-fzÅ-WâÅ-¾G-Çe¼-‚Å-q-¾Å-¤-ºhÅübØ-=ï-fôm-Bïh-ˆÛ-±h-hÝ-z¸ÞP-mÅ-¤ÛºÛ-P¾-¯ô¾-Dô-mÅ-hï-¿e¼-

Oæz-fzÅ-‚ïh-q-mÛü ¤²âz-¯ï¼-¼Û-M¾-¿Ëàm-qô-ºEï¼-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-q-hP-GZÛÅ-ÅÞ-¤ïhü º²¤-JÀÛP-mP-iP-zhïm-¤Ûm-qºÛ-‚-z-GP-ŸÛG-zHÛÅ-ˆP-¤f¼-μâm-@Ýz-zlô¾-zºÛ-hqï-¿e¼ü Oæz-fzÅ-¤ïh-qºÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-ÇeôP-q-hï¼ü M-GŸÝP-h¤¼-ÁôG-ºfÞÅ-¤ÛºÛ-±ôGÅ-Vïm-Ç+zÅ-zTß-GTÛG-qºÛ-fôG-Bôm-zXôh-iG-bà-wôG-mÅ-ym-»ÞP-DÞÅ-¤mô-zŤ-PP-GmÅ-hGôÅ-‚ãP-ü

Page 182: 14 mount-everest-dingri

160

160 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zTß-GZÛÅü

¿Ë-Å-z-zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤-hP-üP¤-¼ÛP-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼ü

(1973)

w¾-Vï¼-uÛ-¾ô- 1972 ®¤-¾-¿Ë-Å-z-zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤-hP.üP¤-¼ÛP-μôP-DôPÅ-Vß-hGº-mÅ-»Ûm-q-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-GZÛÅ-Mãm-hÝ-È-TP-¤²º-zÅü hï¼-M-¤ÛÅ-Bôm-zbGÅ-mÅ-Eïh-GZÛÅ-ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-ºIô-MãºÛ-Pm-IôÅ-‚Å-q-¼ïhü TïÅ-hGÝm-hÝÅ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-Ç+zÅ-DôP-GZÛÅ-ºzïm-¿e-zÞ¼-zŸG-mÅ-±P-¤Å-Bôm-zXôh-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-‚-hGôÅ-qºÛ-Ez-zOGÅ-‚Å-q¼ü mÝz-¤ô-hï-DôP-GZÛÅ-ÇkÝG-¤-z¸ôh-q¼-ƒôÅ-qÅ-xÛ-ZÛm-¾Å-¤Û-G Þ̧GÅ-fP-¿S-®¤-GP-ż-DôP-GZÛÅ-º²Ûm-hÝ-¤PGÅü ÁÛP-GTôh-DôPÅ-mÅ-ym-hGÝ-ÁP-hÝ-¤PGÅ-‚ãP.ü M-¾Å-ÈàºÞ-»ÛÅ-ÁÛP-z¸ô-zºÛ-ÁôG-mÅ-fÞz-zÇem-h;¼-¼Û¾-ÅôGÅ-¤Û-zŸÛ-FÛh-hï-Çtô-zô-fôGÅ-¤ïh-¸¤-q-ºGôG-

Page 183: 14 mount-everest-dingri

161

¿Ë-Å-z-zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤-hP-ü P¤-¼ÛP-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼ü 161

bà-xÛmü ¾¤-z¸ô-z-ÍP- 96 qºÛ-ż-¯-z-Vß¼-fÞG-TÛP-ƒG-¼Û-Á-ÇeG-»Ûm-qºÛ-ºyP-ÁÛm-bà-hôGÅ-q-hï¼-Èà¼-z¯ôm-Tm-ºWâ-q-»Ûh-®ßG-GÛ-zTß-ÁôG-n¤Å-ÇKÝG-¼-vôh-q¼-zbP-ü

ºIô-¾¤-n¤Å-z;G-mÅ-ZÛm-zhÝm-XïÅ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-ŸÛG-ym-±ôºÛ-¤hÝm-º‚ô¼-mÅ-ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-z-GZÛÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-¸Ûm-qÅ-xÛ¼-¾ôG-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-ºyÛm-zB¾ü w¼-º‚ô¼-mÅ-ºWâ-q-»Û-G®ßG-GÛÅ-ym-±ô¼-zÁh-hômü hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-hP-zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤-GZÛÅ-P-±ôÅ-z;G-qºÛ-ºyP-hï¼-ÇÀïzÅ-Ç+zÅü ¾¤-z;G-»ôh-q-¤fôP-ºy¾-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-HÛÅ-ÇK¾-q¼-ºDÞ¼-zºÛ-T-¾G-ym-zÞ-hï-G»ÞGÅ-mÅ-ƒôÅ-q-hP-ü zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤-ºDÞ¼-zô-ºzïz-¤-fÞz-q¼-¾ÞÅ-q-¸Ûm-hÝ-Zï-z-mü ¿eïz-IÛÅ-¼P-GÛ-ljÛP-D¼-zÇoÝm-»P-IÛ-D-GÝG-mÅ-ljÛP-G-hP-¾G-q¼-©Å-Bôm-TßP-¾Å-¼P-ÁÛ-zMz-¤-fÞz-q¼-P-±ôÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü h-hÝP-PÅ-¤Û-ºGº-FÛh-hï-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-XïÅ-hïh-‚Å-qÅ-¤±¤Å-ÁÛG-mÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bïü hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-¾-h‚ãG-qÅ-lïG-GÛm-GZÛÅ-;-»¼-FÛh-»ôP-z-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-zÁhü

M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-DôP-GZÛÅ-¾-ºfz-º²ÛP-GbôP-zTßG-Ç+zÅ-Èà¼-z¯ôm-Tm-±ôÅ-ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-ºIô-hGôÅ-Mã-¤±m-hP.ü ƒôÅ-źÛ-»Þ¾üh¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾ü »Þ¾-hï¼-º‚ô¼-XïÅ-TÛ-‚ïh-zTÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-ŸÝ-hGôÅ-

Page 184: 14 mount-everest-dingri

162

162 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ŸïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-HÛÅ-PÅ-¤ï-¤hº-ºEï¼-mÅ-h¤G-¤Û¼-º²ÛP-q-hP-ü Eïh-±ô¼-Pô-Lô¾ü h=ôG-Gb¤-zMz-q-ÅôGÅ-mG-ZïÅ-Çoï-GTÛG-¤ïh-ˆP-Eïh-±ôÅ-P-ŸÛP-q-xãG-qô-¼ïh-TïÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bïü FÛ¤Å-Vh-¾ô-±h-¿S-z¸ôÅ-mÅ-z®ôm-hÝ-zTßG

uÛ-¾ô- 1965 ¾ô-±h-μôGÅ-q-zŸÛm-z®ôm-mÅ-JÀôh-DÞ¾-‚Å-ˆP-¼P-EÛ¤-hP-ü w-¤ü z¸º-¹ü zÞ-yâG-zTÅ-¤ÛG-¤fôP-®¤-HÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-¤ïh-q¼-ºhÛ¼-zbP-ŸÛP-ü ¤Û-¾ô-ÉÛ¾-qô-iâG-ºhÅ-ˆP-¼P-EÛ¤-hÝ-ºDô¼-ŸG-®¤-zbP-¤-‚ãP.ü

h-z¼-P-±ôÅ-P¾- ô̄¾-zHÛÅ-q¼-V-zŸG-m-@P-¾G-GZÛÅ-º²h-Mã-¤ïh-q-¤-GbôGÅ-¸h-q-»ôhü Eôh-±ôÅ-zXôh-qºÛ-ºôh-¸ï¼-ÇeôP-¿km-HÛ-¤hÝm-¾¤-mÛ-GôP-¬ôÅ-hï-hG-¼ïhü ºVÛ-Mã-¤ïh-qºÛ-¤hÝm-¾¤-Eôh-±ô¼-vôh-Mã-¤Û-ºhÝG-¾-z®m-M¾-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-q¼-hï-zÅ-G-¾-»ôhü Mã-¤±m-ºhÛ-hG-¾-zdïm-±ï-ºhÛ¼-z;º-iÛm-Tm-HÛ-w-¤-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-Ç+Ý-º±ô-zŸÝGÅ-¼ÛP-hPôÅ-¤W¾-fÞz-¼ïÅ-ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-xÛm-q-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-zÁhü

M-¾Å-ÈàºÞ-bàh-=P-GÛÅ-hï-ºi-»Ûm-m-Eôh-ƒôÅ-mÅ-f¼-Å-ºhÝG-G¤ü ¤fº-zTÛPÅ-ºIô¾-h¤G-¤ÛÅ-zÇ+ô¼-z-hP.ü mP-hÝ-Zïm-dôG-h¤G-¤ÛÅ-DïPÅ-ÁÛP-ü z¼-hÝ-GP-ż-OÛG-º²âGÅ-z¸ôÅ-qºÛ-P¾-¯ô¾-¤Û-¤P-GÛÅ-Ez-»ôhü Eôh-¼P-Gbm-mÅ-ºIô-Å-¤ïhü hï-¾Å-

Page 185: 14 mount-everest-dingri

163

¿Ë-Å-z-zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤-hP-ü P¤-¼ÛP-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼ü 163

Z¤-VßP-GÛÅ-Nå¼-z;ôh-‚Å-m-h-hÝP-Eôh-¼P-¾-¤hÝm-¾¤-vôh-ˆÛ-»ÛmüEôh-¼P-w-¤-fÞG-q¼-ƒôÅ-±ß¾-zXôh-q-®¤-¾Å-hôm-hPôÅ-xÛ-M¾-hÝ-ºIô-ºhôh-qºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-Ç~Å-Ç+ÝP-‚Å-m-wm-q-¤ïhü ¼P-GÛ-mG-ZïÅ-»ÛG-fôG-z;ôh-mÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚-hGôÅü D-Gž-¾-GÝ-»PÅ-hP.ü Ç~Å-Ç+ÝP-¾-iG-Gmôm-HÛ-bP-GÛ-ÆÛh-‚ãÅ-mÛ-Eôh-¼P-GÛÅ-Gž-qô-ÁïÅ-ˆÛ-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-hï-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-Iô¾ü

hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-hP-zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤-ZÛm-¤ô-¾Å-;¼-FÛh-TÛP-¤±m-¤ô-@P-q-¿UGÅ-OôG-GÛÅ-zTÛPÅ-q-hP-ü DôP-GZÛÅ-¾-º±ô-z-zTß-hqôm-Åô-ÅôÅ-GP-vh-¾Å-¤ïhü ¤Û-¼ÛP-zºÛ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-PºÛ-±ôGÅ-VßP-GÛ-¤Û-n¤Å-¾Å-;¼-fôm-mÅ-P-¼P-fôm-IzÅ-Ç+zÅü @P-¿UGÅ-ˆÛ-ÅÛP-O-IGÅ-q-z¿eÅ-qÅ-OôG-GÛÅ-zTÛPÅ-qºÛ-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-P-±ôºÛ-ÇKô-ºI¤-»ôP-mÅ-ym-¾ü Í-Tô-PG-hzP-P-FÛ¤Å-hÝÅ-¾ô-Vh-z¸ôÅ-mÅ-z®ôm-DP-Í-¤¼-GbôP-Mã-¼ïh-ºhÝG-qÅ-ÇÀ¼-ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-ºIô-»Û-»Ûmü Eïh-ˆÛÅ-¿UGÅ-OôG-GTôh-‚ïh-ÅG-l¼-ŸÛG-hP.ü PºÛ-MG-xï¼-W-±Ð-¤¼-¯¤-ym-®¤-¼ïü z;ô¾-Çoôh-TÛG-zTÅ-fzÅ-ÁïÅ-ˆÛÅ-Çe-Gôm-‚-¼ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁhü

ZÛm-hï¼-ym-¾Å-»Þ¾-mÅ-ZÛm-GÝP-¾ôG-Çeï-GôP-hÝ-DÅ-„ÀPÅ-q-n¤Å-GÅP-fzÅ-ˆÛÅ-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-HÛ-Z¾-VÅ-¾-zOÛ¾-z-hP-ü

Page 186: 14 mount-everest-dingri

164

164 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

È-»P-Z¾-FÛºÛ-ºôG-zTßG-mÅ-zŸG ZÛm-GZÛÅ-XïÅ-ˆÛ-¤±m-¤ô-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-HÛÅ-¿UGÅ-OôG-zTh-mÅ-ƒôÅü

ÅP-ZÛm-fô-¼ïPÅ-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-ƒôÅ-q-ÁïÅ-qÅ-bàh-=P-¤ÛG-h¤¼-HÛÅ-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-HÛ-zTß-ÁôG-GÛ-¤Û-n¤Å-xÛ¼-zbôm-mÅ-¥ã¾-z¼-FÛhü ym-±ôºÛ-zTß-ÁôG-GÛÅ-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-ƒôÅ-q-ÁïÅ-ˆP-¤-ÁïÅ-±ß¾-HÛÅ-GZÛh-μâ-zbz-mÅ-Z¾-Ç+zÅ-M-¾Å-bàh-=P-Lm-q-ÈàºÞ-zTß-ÁôG-mP-hÝ-»ôP-mÅü Eôh-±ô-¥ã¾-z¼-¤Û-ºIô-z-GP-»Ûm-m¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅü ym-HÛÅ-hï-ÇSôm-Eôh-±ôÅ-GôP-¼Û¤-mÅ-VôG-¤Vm-¤-fôz-z¼-GP-‚ãP-ºGݾ-zBôh-MG-¤Û-VôG-TïÅ-zOGÅ-q-¿e¼-P-±ôÅ-hï¼-¯-º²Ûm-‚Å-q-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-zXôh-q¼ü Dô-qÅ-h-¿e-PÅ-VôG-¤Vm-vh-VôG ¾¤-ÅïP-¥ã¾-z¼-ÅôP-ŸïÅ-zXôh-q-hP.ü P-±ôÅ-w¼-®¤-xÛm-mÅ-GŸm-HÛÅ-¤Û-¤Pôm-ż-Z¾-zÇkhü ÅP-ZÛm-P-±ô-Z¾-DP-hÝ-±ß¼-¾ôG-Ç+zÅ-ÅÞÅ-ˆP-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-z¸ÞP-fÞz-¤Û-ºhÝG-q-f¼-z-¼ïh-lj¤-Çeï-hGº-±ô¼-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-ü

ZÛm-GZÛÅ-XïÅ-ˆÛ-¤±m-GÝP-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-HÛÅ-¼P-GÛ-IôGÅ-qô-zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤-„ÀôÅ-¤-zbP-z¼ü zB¼-¾ôG-GÛÅ-GÅP-zºÛ-fôG-Z¾-DP-hÝ-Bôz-q¼-º‚ô¼-zü zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤Å-¤fôP-Çeï-D-mÅ-zl-vôh-q¼-GŸm-HÛÅ-ÁïÅ-hôGÅ-bï-@P-q-zlz-mÅ-¿UGÅ-OôG-

Page 187: 14 mount-everest-dingri

165

¿Ë-Å-z-zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤-hP-ü P¤-¼ÛP-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼ü 165

GÛÅ-OÅ-¼P-ZÛh-ƒôÅ-fzÅ-¤ïh-qºÛ-zl-vhü zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤-FÛh-fzÅ-¤ïh-q-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-HÛÅ-ÁïÅ-mÅ-¼P-ZÛh-GTÛG-qÞ-xÛ¼-fôm-Ç+zÅü M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-GÅP-Zm-‚ïh-¤Dm-hÝ-zŸG-qºÛ-M¾-¯ï-μôP-DôPÅ-D-¤ô-IôP-±ôºÛ-hPôÅ-Iâz-ˆÛÅ-ÁïÅ-mÅ-M-¾Å-¾-ljm-ÅïP-ŸÝÅ-q-hP.ü M-¾Å-ÈàºÞ-»ÛÅ-ÁÛP-z¸ô-zTß-ÁôG-mÅ-Çkï-hGï-¤Û-Pm-±P-GÛ-±ï-hzP-wÞm-±ôGÅ-hP.ü ¤²ô-ÇKP-μôP-DôPÅ-ÍÞ-»G-ÁP-mÅ-»Ûm-q-z¸ôh-qü GŸÛÅ-¯ï-¾¤-z¸ôºÛ-DôPÅ-GbôGÅ-fÞz-zÇemü ºWâ-q-z¯ôm-ºIâÅ-zTÅ-¾-Çe-IÛ-hP-IÛ-zÇ+ݼ-mÅ-XïÅ-hïh-q¼-zbP-ü M-¾Å-ÈàºÞ-»ÛÅ-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-Åôh-TïÅ-z;º-zbP-»ôh-±ôhü

¼P-ZÛh-ˆP-Åï¤Å-P¾-Vïm-qôÅ-¿+ôG-¿e-‚Å-qÅ-GôP-GÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-n¤Å-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛmü ¼Å-GŸÛºÛ-fôG-GÛ-JÀôG-z½‰m-zŸÛm-Gž-z¼-¤fôP-z-hP-ü XïÅ-ºhïh-q-xÛm-XïÅ-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-ƒôÅ-fÞz-q-h;ôm-¤VôG-GÛ-BzÅ-ºWâG-GmP-¼ôGÅü ŸïÅ-Ǩôm-¾¤-ºhôm-zŸÛmü ¸P-¸ÛP-Vï-zºÛ-¤±m-¤ôºÛ-ÇoP-±ß¾-hï¼-¤Þ-¤fÞh-¿+ôG-¿e-‚Å-mÅ-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-w¾-Vï¼-Vß-±ôh-GZÛÅ-®¤-XïÅü GôP-¤Û-zŸÛÅ-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-zˆG-mÅ-hzô¼-bï-ÇKô-¼¼-zŸG-ÅôP-zü PG-mÅ-Èà¼-O-ŸÛG-¾Å-¾ÞÅ-ºGݾ-»P-¤Û-fÞz-qÅü PÅ-m¤-¤D¼-¤ÛG-z¿eÅ-bï-PG-mÅ-Z¤-VßP-z¼-VG-ÇKô-ºhÛ-ºi-G-¼ï-¼ïh-h¤ü ŸïÅ-hzP-¤ïh-VÛG-¾z-f¾ü

Page 188: 14 mount-everest-dingri

166

166 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ÅP-ZÛm-¾Å-ż-GŸÛÅ-̄ ïºÛ-¾¤-z ô̧-zºÛ-DôPÅ-̂ Û-fÞz-zÇem-GhôP-q-Ǩh-hï-GmôPÅ-ºHôh-Vïm-qôÅ-PºÛ-¤hÝm-»ôP-mÅü Í-Tô-PG-hzP-¤hP-hGôP-hqï-zÅGÅ-Åôü P-±ôÅ-XïÅ-hïh-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-¯ÛG-¾ôGÅ-ÅÞ-Gz-»ôh-q-¤fôP-z-hP.ü ¾¤-ÅïP-Çkï-hGï-z-±ï-hzP-wÞm-±ôGÅ- Û̂Å-Çe-¼ï-lïG-q-ÅôG-ºôG-bà-wôG-mÅ-©-z ô̧Å-ˆP-ü hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-HÛÅ-f¼-¼ïÅ-h-hÝP-ƒôÅ-q¼ü XïÅ-ºhïh-zbP-Çeï-º²Ûm-fÞz-¤-fG-¤²ô-ÇKôP-z-z ô̧h-qÅ-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-HÛ-¤Gô-zô¼-Çe-¼ï-lïG-qÅühGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-Å-ÇeïP-ºIÛ¾-¤-fG-Dô-q-±ôÅ-GTÛG-XïÅ-GZÛÅ-¤fÞh-ˆÛÅ-lïG-μôG-ÁÝGÅ-Vï¼-‚ïh-qü PÅ-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-¾-lïG-±ß¾-Dô-q-±ô-z;G-fzÅ-¼Û¤-qÅ-‚Å-ˆP-¤f¼-¬-zXôh-¤Û-fÞz-q-z¸ôÅ-ÁÛP-üh-GÅôm-qôºÛ-¼ï-z-¤ïhü ljÛP-Xïü ŸïÅ-zXôhü P-±ô-¾Å-Å-mÅ-¤¼-¾ôG-XïÅ-hGï-hzP-zÇem-h¼-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-fôG-z®ôm-DP-¿eï-z¼-ºEï¼-zºÛ-¾¤-z¼-hzÞGÅ-Vh-Ç+ô¼-fôÅ-q-hP-ü hï-XïÅ-zÇem-º²Ûm-ZÛ-¤-¾-¾ô-¿S-z®ôm-ºWâG-MÅ-zTh-z¸ôÅü

Page 189: 14 mount-everest-dingri

167

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇk Ý -¾-Zïü 167

zTß-GÅÞ¤ü

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇkÝ-¾-Zïü(1973)

uÛ-¾ô- 1973 hGÝm-hÝÅ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-GÛ-z¼-GÅïP-¾-M-h¤¼-HÛ-hÝÅ-Vïm-ŸÛG-ºDï¾-»P-ü ¾Å-¤Û-Lm-q-ºGºÛ-Vïh-P-±ô-¤Û-iâG-hï-ZÛm-»P-ÁÛP-zOæGÅ-q¼-zBôhü ¤¼-Vß-±ôh-iâG-q-®¤-¾-º‚ô¼-z-Lm-qô-n¤Å-¾-¤ï-ÁÛP-zGô-zÁº-zMzü Çkï-hGï-z-LÅ-qô-ÍÞ-Mm-¿ËG-zŤ-HÛÅ-P-¾ü hï-¼ÛP-M-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-VP-¼G-ym-zÞ-z®ôP-q-ºfÞP-Mã-‚ãP-Aïm-¤²ô-ÇKôP-z-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ-hP.ü Gô-ºWô-z-h;ôm-¤VôG-zÇem-º²Ûm-GZÛÅ-D-¯ôh-Áô¼-mÅ-h;ôm-¤VôG-zÇem-º²Ûm-HÛÅ-M-¾Å-bàh-=P-¤hÝm-xÛm-qÅü TÛ-ŸÛG-zÁh-»ôh-h¤ü ŸïÅ-zXôhü

ZÛm-GÅÞ¤-®¤-¼ÛP-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ-hP.ü ;©-GZÛÅ-¼ïÅ-¤ôÅ-ˆÛÅ-»¼-¤¼-FÛh-Ç+zÅ-DôP-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-n¤-ºHã¼-¾Å-P-±ôºÛ-GÅP-

Page 190: 14 mount-everest-dingri

168

168 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zºÛ-OÛG-Çoï-Áô¼-z-¤Pôm-»Pü ¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-GTÛG-qÞ¼-ƒôÅ-m-¤Û-Åï¼-hP-ºƒï¾-z-Vï-zÅ-f¼-¼ï-Vï-»P-Áݾ-¾ÞÅ-ºfz-IôGÅ-hÝ-¤-ÆôG-fôG-ºIô-Mã¼-PïÅ-Aïmü ¤Û-¤P-qôºÛ-ÆôG-±z-¼P-ZÛh-GTÛG-qÞºÛ-ÆôG-zbP-m-¾ïGÅ-lj¤-ºV¼-bïü ¼P-IôGÅ-„ÀôÅ-fÞz-TÛG-¾-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ-hP-;©Å-¼P-¼ïºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-GÅP-Çoï-PôÅ-¾ïm-ŸÝÅ-q-n¤-ºHã¼-¾Å-PÅ-Gž-qô¼-ÁïÅ-q-¤-¸hü ¼ÛP-¤Ûm-HÛ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-ym-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-z®ôm-ºWâG-‚ïh-PïÅü ym-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-mÅ-z¸ÞP-¹-z-GZÛÅ-¼ÛP-PôÅ-¾ïm-¯-z-mÅ-¤Û-ŸÝ-zÅ-hïºÛ-¼ÛP-Eïh- Û̂Å-Å-GmÅ-GŸm-HÛ-¼Þ-DG-zhÝm-qô¼-»ôh-qºÛ-OÛG-¤Û-n¤Å-¾ü M-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-Bôm-º²âGÅ-‚ãP-m-PôÅ-¾ïm-¯-z-mÅ-¤-‚ïhü TïÅ-¾m-ºEô¾-z-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-¤PGÅ-qÅüDôP-GÛÅ-DÅ-¾ïm-GP-¸z-GmP-ü

uÛ-¾ô- 1973 ¹- 1 ±ïÅ- 5 ZÛm-ym-M-¾Å-¼Þ-hqôm-Lm-q-M-hP-¿km-q-hïÅ-»¼-z;ÝG-mÅ-Ç+h-Nå¼-M-¾Å-hzP-ºhÝÅ-zMãhüzÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ-hP-ºƒï¾-z-WÛ-¿e¼-»ôh-¤Ûm-hP-ü mG-ZïÅ-GP-‚Å-PôÅ-¸Ûm-m¤ü PôÅ-¸Ûm-m-PôÅ-¾ïm-ŸÝ-hGôÅ-zXôhü ym-HÛÅ-hÝÅ-Mãm-¾Å-;-‚ïh-qºÛ-hzP-V-¾Å-mG-ZïÅ-GÅôG-qºÛ-hzP-V-¤ïh-qÅ-mG-ZïÅ-TÛ-»P-‚Å-¤ïh-TïÅ-¾m-zbzü

Eïh-¾-mG-ZïÅ-¤ïh-m-»G-qô-¼ïhü hP-qô-@P-q-¤¼-AôPÅ-ŸïÅ-

Page 191: 14 mount-everest-dingri

169

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇk Ý -¾-Zïü 169

zXôh-mÅ-@P-¿UGÅ-zMz-Çeï-mG-ZïÅ-im-m¤-¤Û-imü GÝP-Fm-bP-GÛ-FÛ¤Å-¾-¤Þ-¤fº-¤ïh-TïÅ-¸ï¼ü ym-HÛÅ-Eïh-±ôºÛ-FÛ¤Å-¾-¤Þ-¤fº-¤ïh-ˆP-P-¾-mG-ZïÅ-im-GÅô-‚-Mã-¤ïhü uÛ-¾ô- 1959 mÅ-P-±ô-ZïÅ-¤ïh-z®ôm-hÝ-zTßG-q-h-¿eºP-JÀôh-ºIô¾-GbôP-GÛ-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-q-hP-ü Eïh-¼P-GÛÅ-mG-ZïÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚-Mã-w¼-zŸG-mÅü bP-hP-¤Û-¤P-¾-Pô-Lô¾-HÛ-n¤-ºHã¼-ÁÝGÅ-Vïm-Çeôm-qºÛ-¤±ôm-hôm-GP-¼ïh-h¤-Ÿï-mü uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ZïÅ-¤ïh-z®ôm-ºWâG-‚Å-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-q-hï-¼ïhübP-GÛÅ-ZïÅ-q-¤ïh-m-z®ôm-ºWâG-m¤-»P-‚ïh-¤Û-ÆÛhü Eïh-¼P-GÛÅ-Hïm-¾ôG-‚Å-qÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-z®ôm-ºWâG-‚Å-q-¼ïhü GmÅ-±ß¾-hï-hG-GÛ-fôG-mÅ-Eïh-¼P-¾-FÛ¤Å-GTôh-mm-qô-‚ïh-hGôÅ-q-ŸÛG-¼ïhü TïÅ-¾G-¿UGÅ-zMz-Çeï-hï-¼ÛP-zŤ-„Àô-GbôP-zºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-zÁhü

hï-ZÛm-zôh-¼P-BôP-¿YôPÅ- Û̂-z®ôm-DP-ÍP-GZÛÅ-q-z Þ̧P-Ço-mÅ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-ŸÛG-mP-M-h¤G-zMh-º‚ô¼-bï-ym-FÛhü z®ôm-DP-GÛ-¿UGÅ-¼Û-xÛ-¤-fôG-Å-GZÛÅ-®¤-HÛ-¤fô-±h-»ôh-TÛP-hïºÛ-ÇeïP-¿UGÅ-Ç+Ýh-ˆÛ-¸ï-¤-¼-¤GôÅ-zÇ+ô¼-zü ¸Þ¼-zŸÛ-hP-hzÞÅ-ÅÞ-GhÝP-¤-zŸÛ-zÇÀPÅ-zºÛ-fôG-ÁÛP-DP-VßP-PÞ-¼ï-mÅ-M-h¤G-GÛÅ-Gô-¤±ôm-z¸ÞP-mÅ-ÆâP-z-hP-ü¤fº-h¤G-¤Û-GZÛÅ- Û̂Å-ÆâP-zºÛ-M¾-ÇKô-Vïm-qô-hï-zMãh-mÅ-Gô¤-q-zTß-GTÛG-®¤-ż-¿UGÅ-¼Û-z¼-¤-ŸÛG-»ôh-q-hP-ü hï¼-»P-¤fô-±h-hP-

Page 192: 14 mount-everest-dingri

170

170 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

Åô-DÞP-ÅôGÅ-GôP-hP-¤±ßPÅü hï-mÅ-»P-Gô¤-q-zhÝm-®¤-ż-¿UGÅ-¼Û-mP-¤-»ôh-q-hï¼-»P-¤fô-±h-hP-Åô-DÞP-ÅôGÅ-GôP-hP-GTÛG-¤±ßPÅ-¼ïhü hï-ºiºÛ-z®ôm-DP-mÅ-ºwÞ¼-¯¾-¿km-qºÛ-‚-ŸÛG-»Ûm-m-¾Å-f¼-fzÅ-Åï¤Å-fG-¼ïh-lj¤-‚ãP-ü

ym-mP-GÅïÅ-¿S-qºÛ-DP-VßP-ŸÛG-mP-zTßG-mÅ-ZÛm-zhÝm-®¤-GmÅ-±ß¾-TÛ-»P-¤-iÛÅü ZÛm-zhÝm-XïÅ-P¾-¯ô¾-Nå¼-z;ôh-¾Å-DÞPÅ-ˆÛ-ºGô-G®ô-ÈÑm-=P-hP.ü Iô-¤ô-z-d-¤IÛm-hzP-xãG-GZÛÅ-»ôP-Çeï-ym-¾-Eïh-h-z¼-zŤ-„Àô-GP-ºDô¼ü ŸÝ-Mã-TÛ-»ôh-ŸÝÅ-ÁôG-TïÅ-zÁhü ym-HÛÅ-P-¾-zŤ-„Àô-TÛ-»P-ºDô¼-¤-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-zXôh-q¼ü ÈÑm-TßÅ-=P-DôP-Fô-iG-bà-¾PÅ-mÅ-zŸÛm-HÛ-¤hôG-Hã¼-bïü @P-zlz-¾G-zlz-‚ïh-zŸÛm-hÝ-fÞP-¤hº-TôG-®ïºÛ-ÇeïP-zbôm-mÅ-P¼-Ç+h-hP-zTÅü Eôh-¼P-È-TP-μz-Vïm-¼ïhü hqP-dGÅ-»ÛG-V-DÞPÅ-z®m-ºhÛ-hG-»ôhü TïÅ-zÅôh-mô¼-hP-;©-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-PôÅ-¾ïm-»ÛG-V-n¤Å-zÇemü

ym-HÛÅ-GÅP-zºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ- Û̂-‚ïh-Gbï-P-»Ûmü P-Eïh-±ôºÛ-¾G-bà-»ôh-qÅ-im-GÅô-‚ïh-ˆÛm-PôÅ-¾ïm-ŸÝ-Mã-¾Å-¾ô-¤P-ÅôP-Aïm-im-q-zXïh-ºhÝG-TïÅ-zÁhü ÈÑm-TßÅ-=P-GÛÅ-ym-¾ü Eïh-¼P-ºVÛ-ºhôh-h¤ü ºVÛ-¤Û-ºhôh-m-Eïh-¼P-GÛÅ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-¾-xôGÅ-GP-mÅ-ºƒï¾-z-TÛ-»ôh-n¤Å-Gž-zÁh-‚ôÅü ¾¤-ÅïP-GÝ-»PÅ-GbP-VôG-TïÅ-zÁhü

Page 193: 14 mount-everest-dingri

171

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇk Ý -¾-Zïü 171

ym-HÛÅ-Å-ºôG-GÛ-ºzÞ-ÆÛm-¤±ôm-qºÛ-ÆôG-VGÅ-;Ým-ºVÛ-ºhôh-q-GTÛG-ˆP-¤ïh-q-¿e¼ü ym-»P-ºVÛ-¤Û-ºhôh-qÅ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-z¸ô-¤Dm-‚ïh-Gbï-P-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-ŸÝÅ-q-hP.ü GÅP-zºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-ºƒï¾-¾¤-zÁh-m-GÝ-»PÅ-ºfôz-Mã-»Ûm-q-mÛü uÛ-¾ô- 1959mÅ-h-z¼-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚Å-m-GÝ-»PÅ-hP-ü ¤FïGÅ-z¸ÞP-‚Å-m-iG-Gmôm-»ôh-qºÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-vh-q-n¤Å-Gž-qô-ÁïÅ-ˆÛ-»ôh-TïÅ-zÁh-qÅü ÈÑm-TßÅ-=P-GÛÅ-hïP-Ç+zÅ-º²¤-JÀÛP-GÛ-ºwï¾-ƒÛh-¾-Eïh-¼P-ÇÀôz-uôP-‚ïh-hGôÅü ¶Û-bÛ-m¤-¿Ëô-‚P-GZÛÅ-h¤G-ºFâG-Ç+zÅ-Í-¼Û-z®m-M¾-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-qÅ-¿Ëô-¶Û-bÛ-m¤-¾-h¤G-¤DôºÛ-»ô-VÅ-DG-hP.ü h¤G-¤Û-ÅôGÅ-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-‚Å-bï-¾ô-Pô-zTß-zŸÛ-®¤-ºhÅ-q-hP.ü h¤G-Vïm-GZÛÅ-qºÛ-XïÅ-ÁôG-DG-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-ÇeôzÅ-ÁÝGÅ-ºIm-zÇkݼ-‚ïh-qºÛ-hÝÅ-Á¼-z-¼ïhü ¤ºô-®ï-bàP-mÅ-Í-¼Û-z®m-M¾-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-q-xÛ-μÛG-mP-ÇeôP-GÛ-ÁôG-zÞºÛ-ÇeG-¼ïhü TïÅ-qºÛ-¼P-G Þ̧GÅ-hï-h-¾¤-¿~Û-bÛ-m¤-HÛ-h¤G-ºFâG-ºhÛºÛ-fôG-mÅ-¤fôP-z-¼ïhü Eïh-¼P-±ô-¾ôG-uôh-q-»Ûm-xÛm-xÛ-μÛG-mP-ÇeôP-ºhÛ-¿e¼-¼ïh-TïÅ-hP.ü ¶Û-bÛ-m¤-¿Ëô-‚P-GZÛÅ-VÛG-OÛ¾-z¸ôÅ-Ç+ô¼-ÅôGÅ-Gž-zºÛ-±GÅ-ÁôG-TÛG-ym-HÛ-¤hÝm-¾-G»ÞGÅ-mÅ-¿eôÅ-hP-¸ï¼ü

hGôP-iô-DP-VßP-hï¼-@P-¾G-¿UGÅ-ˆÛÅ-zTÛPÅ-mÅ-GmÅ-

Page 194: 14 mount-everest-dingri

172

172 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¤Þ¼-¤²ô-ÇKôP-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ-PºÛ-Zï-ºI¤-z®ôm-DP-mP-GÅïÅ-zŸÛ-q¼-zTßG-»ôh-Ç+ô¼-hP-ü DôP-hP-ºƒôP-q-;©Å-ÇS¼-ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-ºIô-MãºÛ-ºV¼-GŸÛÅ-±ôGÅ-q-ŸÛG-z®ßGÅ-q-hP-ü hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-GÛÅ-ºGô-ºFÛh-qºÛ-±ôGÅ-¤Û-Áï¾-h;¼-±ôÅ-¿S-VôÅ-z¸P-ü ¤²ô-ÇKôP-z-z¸ôh-qü hq¾-ºz¼-z-VôÅ-¿kmü ;ôP-qô-z-ºW¤-hq¾ü ǨÛm-JÀÛP-¹-zü ºƒôP-q-¾Û-hzP.ü mG-Vß-;©ü Çkï-hGï-±ï-¼ÛP-lô-Xïü z=Å-¿Ëàm-IÔ-dºÞ-„Àô-z¸P-hq¾-¿km-zTÅ-»Ûmü

GmÅ-±ß¾-hï-mÛ-¾ô-¤P-GôP-zŤ-±ß¾-‚ãP-z-hP-hï-¤-fG-±ôGÅ-q-z®ßGÅ-q-®¤-¾Å-¼Û¤-qÅ-ºWº-¼P-»¾-¿e-zÞ¼-Hã¼-q-¼ïhü TïÅ-M-GŸÝP-¾-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚Å-qºÛ-GÅP-zl-º‚ô¼-‚ãP-ü hï-¿e-zÞºÛ-GhÝG-¯çz-ˆÛ-GmÅ-ÇePÅ-ºôG-DôP-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-„Àô-IôÅ-¾-ym-GÝÅ-z;ݼ-hzP-¤ïh-BïÅ-‚ãP-¾ü ym-HÛ-¾Å-;ºÛ-D-xôGÅ-ˆP-Gž-z¼-ÁïÅ-‚ãP-üGôP-ºDôh-¤Û-hï-n¤Å-mÅ-GTÛG-GÛÅ-¤-GbôGÅ-¼P-ZÛh-GÅP-zºÛ-±ôGÅ-¤Û-»Ûm-q-ÁïÅ-q-¾Å-GŸm-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-Ç+ô¼-MÅ-q-hP-GÅP-¤Û-GŸm-TÛ-»P-ÁïÅ-ˆÛ-¤ïhü hï-zŸÛm-Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-ŸÛP-¼ºÛ-¼Þ-Vïm-zMh-hP-hï-DÞ¾-HÛ-¤Û-Åï¼-zTÅ-ÅÞ-ym-HÛ-GÁ¤-hÝ-±ôGÅ-q-z®ßGÅ-¤Dm-¤Û-iâG-»ôh-TÛP-ü ¤Û-iâG-qô-hïÅ-ym-ºGô-‚ïh-»Ûm-q-ÁïÅ-q-¾Å-±ôGÅ-¤Û-GŸm-HÛÅ-ym-HÛ-Ç+ô¼-GP-»P-ÁïÅ-ˆÛ-¤ïhü

Page 195: 14 mount-everest-dingri

173

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇk Ý -¾-Zïü 173

GÅP-zºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-G¾-VïºÛ-¤Û-Ço-hP-Gmh-hôm-f¤Å-Th-Gž-qô¼-ÁïÅ-¤Dm-¤Û-hï-mÛü hqº-„Àô-IôÅ-º²ô¤Å-qºÛ-hq¾-ºz¼-z-VôÅ-zÇem-¼ïhü DôP-GÛÅ-ºVÛ-ÆôG-¾-fÞG-ˆP-GÅP-Çoï-JÀôh-¤Û-ÆÛh-qÅ-M-GŸÝP-GÛ-GÅP-Çoï-fôz-Vïh-ºzh-z¯ôm-WÛ-®¤-‚Å-ˆP-ü lô-¾ïz-Ç+¤-qô¼-ŸÛP-D-ºhïzÅ-q-hP-GTÛG-¤±ßPÅ-»Ûm-q-P-¾-»Ûh-VïÅ-G®P-¤-»ôhü

ÅP-ZÛm-ÇÀ¼-ÈÑm-TßÅ-=P-GÛÅ-ym-iÛ-z-¾ïm-ż-z;ÝG-mÅ-Iô-¤ô-z-d-¤IÛm-hzP-xãG-zMãhü Eïh-¼P->Àh-½‰ÛP-¤FïGÅ-º²Ûm-‚ïh-¤Dm-ŸÛG-»Ûm-qÅü h-hÝP-Gž-zÁh-¤-zHÛÅ-m-iG-qôºÛ-FÛ¤Å-GTôh-‚ïh-MãºÛ-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-‚Å-q-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-zXôhü ym-mÅ-¾ô-¤P-ºhÅ-qºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-ŸÛz-y-im-qÅ-¸Ûm-¤Û-fÞz-qÅ-G-¾ï¼-ŸÝ-MãºÛ-I-OÛG-»ôh-zÁh-q-hP.ü ÈÑm-TßÅ-=P-GÛÅ-ºô-mü Eïh-¼P-GÛ-zŤ-„Àô-M-»m-¤Û-GbôP-Vïh-¿UGÅ-zMz-Çeï-zŤ-„Àô-GbôP-MãºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-vh-Mã-»Ûmü D-¾G-ˆP-̧ -¤Û-VôG-TïÅ-ZÛm-zhÝm-¼ÛP-@P-¿UGÅ-zMz-q-hP-¾G-q-Mz-bà-zTÛPÅ-bï| Vß-vh-q-¾Å-¸Å-D¤-zÞ-GP-¤-vhü

ZÛm-zhÝm-XïÅ-ÈÑm-Tßh-=P-»ôP-mÅ-zhÝm-GTÛG-¼ÛP-zŤ-„Àô-GbôP-MãºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-vh-qÅ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-G-¼ï-z®ßGÅ-hP.ü ¤Û-G-±ôh-»ôhühï-hG-ÅÞ-hP-ÅÞ-»Ûmü GÅP-IôÅ-TÛ-‚Å-n¤Å-Gž-qô¼-zXôhü Eïh-

Page 196: 14 mount-everest-dingri

174

174 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¼P-GÛÅ-Gž-qô-¤-zÁh-m-¤Û-GŸm-HÛÅ-zÁh-qºÛ-±ÛG-fô-P-±ôºÛ-¾G-bà-º‚ô¼-zÅ-Eïh-¼P-¾-Gmôh-ˆÛ-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁhü

ym-HÛÅ-zŤ-„Àô¼-I-OÛG-»ôh-q-zŸÛm-P-±ô¼-f¾-V-¤ïh-TÛP-hÝÅ-±ôh-Bï¾-z¼-wm-fôGÅ-»ôh-q-¤-¸hü FÛ¤Å-Vh-Vïm-qô-¤-wôG-qºÛ-ÇSôm-ºGôG-Vïh-Èm-Tßh-=P-¤Gô-zô-©ôPÅ-fzÅ-ÅÞü ¬Å-qü

GÅP-zºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-‚ïh-Gbï-PÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1966 ¹-6 q¼-OÛG-º²âGÅ-º²âGÅ-MãºÛ-Ç+ô¼-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ¼-zÁh-q-hP-ü Áï¾-;¼-±ôÅ-¿S-VôÅ-z¸P-¾-OÛG-º²âGÅ-mP-º²â¾-hGôÅ-qºÛ-zÇ+ݾ-¤-zbP-ŸÛP-ü zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞºÛ-DôPÅ-¤²ô-ÇKôP-z-z¸ôh-q-hP-ü hq¾-ºz¼-z-VôÅ-zÇemü ;ôP-qô-z-ºW¤-hq¾ü ǨÛm-JÀÛP-¹-zü ºƒôP-q-¾Û-hzP.ü mG-Vß-;©ü Çkï-hGï-±ï-¼ÛP-lô-Xïüz=Å-¿Ëàm-IÔ-dºÞ-„Àô-z¸P-hq¾-¿km-zTÅ-»ôhü

P-±ôºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ- Û̂-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-mÛ-M-G¼-¾-ƒôÅ-‚ô¾-hÝ-ºIô-zºÛ-Vïh-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü ÈÑm-Tßh-=P-GÛÅ-Eïh-±ô-M-G¼-hÝ-ƒôÅ-hGôÅ-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-GP-»Ûm-iÛÅü ym-HÛÅ-¼P-ZÛh-mG-ZïÅ-TßP-¸h-®¤-¤ïh-ˆP-uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô-mÅ-¤Û-¾ô-iâG-¼ÛP-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚ïh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-®¤-Áôh-¤Dm-¤ïh-q¼-z®ôm-ºWâG-‚Å-ÁÛP-ü z®ôm-mÅ-zbôm-»P-zB¼-hÝ-¾Å-¤Û¼-¤ÛP-zbGÅ-mÅ-¤Û-¾ô-hGÝ-ºhÅ-ˆP-EÛ¤-hÝ-ºDô¼-ŸG-

Page 197: 14 mount-everest-dingri

175

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇk Ý -¾-Zïü 175

®¤-¤-zbP-ü Mã-¤±m-hï¼-zdïm-xÛ-M¾-hÝ-zhï-z-ŸÛG-ºfôz-m-lj¤-Çeï-ƒôÅ-MãºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-z¸ôÅü Eïh-±ôÅ-¤Eïm-Gž-¿e¼-hï-¾Å-GŸm-qºÛ-fzÅ-¾¤-TP-¤ïhü TïÅ-zÁhü ÈÑm-Tßh-=P-GÛÅ-GŸm-HÛ-±ÛG-fô¼-ºDôh-qºÛ-Gmh-hôm-GZÛÅ-»ôh-q-Eïh-¼P-GÛÅ-iP-qô-zÁh-¤-ÅôP.¸ï¼-z¼ü ym-HÛÅ-GÅP-zºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ- Û̂-Ç+ô¼-Eïh-n¤Å- Û̂Å-¤Eïm-qÅ-G¾-bï-hôm-±m-GZÛÅ-»ôh-m-m¤-»P-GÅP-fzÅ-¤ïh-qÅü zÁh-Mã-»ôh-±ï-Gž-qô-ŸÝ-Mã-»P.hôm-±m-GZÛÅ-ŸïÅ-q-Gbm-mÅ-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü

ÈÑm-Tßh-=P-GÛÅ-@P-¾G-zlz-q-hP-Ç+zÅ-¼ï-DÞ-±ß¼-OôG-®ïºÛ-ÇeïP-ŸÝÅ-bïü ¤Û-GŸm-HÛÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-ŸÝÅ-qºÛ-hôm-±m-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-Ç+ô¼-HÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-hPôÅ-zhïm-»Ûm-qÅü mG-Vïm-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-h-hÝP-¤-zÁh-m-Gm¤-fG-zMG-GÛ-»Ûm-ŸïÅü Dô-q-hP-Ç+h-Nå¼-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-ym-HÛ-¾G-GZÛÅ-Mz-bà-zÇk¤Å-mÅ-Gm¤-fG-Ç+¼-¤-¿SºÛ-¼ÛP-zMz-qÅühïºÛ-¼ÛP-m-¸ÞG-È-TP-Vï-Aïm-¼P-GÛ-G¸ÞGÅ-hP-GŸm-HÛ-G¸ÞGÅ-GP-»Ûm-¤Û-±ô¼-z-hP.ü ¾ÞÅ-Çeôh-Ǩh-»ôPÅ-mÅ-Qâ¾-Vß-Mãm-¤-Vh-q¼-¸GÅ-bï-Å-GŸÛ-z½Àmü Ç+¼-¤-¿SºÛ-XïÅ-mÅ-Gm¤-fG-z=ô¾-mÅ-Èm-Tßh-=P-GÛÅ-hôm-±m-GZÛÅ-¼-vôh-‚Å-hômü

hP-qôü Eôh-¼P-xÛ-M¾-hÝ-ƒôÅ-mÅ-±ß¼-¾¤-FÛh-hï-z®ôm-DP-

Page 198: 14 mount-everest-dingri

176

176 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

Gbô¼-MãºÛ-ºV¼-GŸÛ-»ôh-qÅü hï-mÛ-zôh-¼P-z®m-ºfôz-MãºÛ-¼ï-ÇeôP-ŸÛG-¼ïh-TïÅ-hP-ü ¤-¸h-Eïh-±ôºÛ-GÅP-zºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-hP-uÛ-±ôGÅ-fôG-GÛ-ºfz- ô̄h-q-n¤Å-¾G-GhP-GTÛG-£ï¾-HÛÅ-Hïm-¾ôG-‚-MãºÛ-ºV¼-GŸÛ-»ôhü

GZÛÅ-qü ºV¼-GŸÛ-¾G-Çe¼-Vïh-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-ºƒï¾-z-‚-»Þ¾-¤Û-zTÅ-hôm-±m-GZÛÅ-hï-PôÅ-„ÀP-m-¾¤-ÅïP-GÝ-»PÅ-GbôP-Mã-hP.ü PôÅ-¤-„ÀP-m-ÆôG-¾-Zïm-D-»ôhü PôÅ-¾ïm-ŸÝ-¤Dm-¤Û-Eïh-¼P-GÛ-±ôGÅ-VßP-mP-»ôhü Eïh-ˆÛÅ-ÁïÅ-ˆÛ-¼ïhü ¤Û-hïÅ-PôÅ-„ÀPÅ-qºÛ-»ÛG-V-ºhÛ-¼ïh-TïÅ-»ÛG-V-ŸÛG-OôG-®ïºÛ-fôG-zlzÅü

hôm-hPôÅ-P-±ôºÛ-±ôGÅ-VßP-GÛ-Çtô-Çeôh-zÅôh-m¤Å-±ï-hzP-GÛ-Mz-¿YôPÅ-¾Å-zljh-zbGÅ-mÅü h¤¼-GÅôh-GbôP-¯ÛÅ-»ôh-q-ym-HÛÅ-Åï¤Å-mP-F-¿Ë¤-¤ï¼-±ôh-hqGÅ-fÞz-qÅü ‚ÛÅ-q¼-¤Gô-zÇ+ô¼-z-¿e-zÞºÛ-G»ô-NåºÛ-¼P-zŸÛm-¾-ÁÛm-bà-mÅ-Gh-¤ô-ƒô-z-ŸÛG-‚ãP-Çeïü hzP-¤ïh-Gh-¤ô-Áô¼-zü Eïh-Gh-¤ô-hGôh-q-GP-»Ûm-m¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅü ym-HÛÅ-ƒôÅ-mÅ-±ß¼-Lô¾-‚-MãºÛ-ÇtôzÅ-q-hP-ü V-Aïmü Vß-±h-zTÅ-¼P-ZÛh-¾-TÛ-»P-¤ïh-TÛP-ü ¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-z¯¤Å-qºÛ-¾Å-hôm-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-¤-ÁïÅ-q-¤Û-ÆÛh-qÅ-hï-¿e¼-¯-z-mÅ-z¯¤Å-¤ïhü ym-hP-¤Z¤-ºƒï¾-z-‚ãP-±ß¾-zXôh-¤Û-hï-Åï¤Å-º±ô-¤-¸Ûm-q-ŸÛG-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-qÅü ÈÑm-

Page 199: 14 mount-everest-dingri

177

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇk Ý -¾-Zïü 177

Tßh-=P-GÛÅ-Eïh-¼P-«ô-º¤ü ŸïÅ-zXôhü P-«ô-¤ïh-TÛP-mG-ZïÅ-hôm-±m-GZÛÅ-‚Å-qºÛ-Áôh-±ß¾-hï-ym-¾-ŸÐ-¤ô-G»ôGÅ-q-¾Å-hPôÅ-ºƒï¾-¤Ûmü ym-mG-ZïÅ-mP-¿ËàP-q¼-zdïm-ŸÐ-¤ô-¤P-qô-»ôP-Mã-»P-hïºÛ-mP-mÅ-zhïm-q-zM-V-zTß-¾Å-¤ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-qÅ-Dô-qÅ-zŤ-„Àô-»G-qô-GbôP-hGôÅü zM-ÁôG-mÅ-mG-ZïÅ-ºfï¼-ºhôm-‚ïh-ˆÛ-¼ïhü TïÅ-h¤G-¤ÛÅ-v-¾ÞP-zM-ÁôG-¾-FÛhü

ZÛm-GÅÞ¤-¼ÛP-zM-ÁôG-GÛ-¤Û-n¤Å-¾-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-GÛ-¾ÞÅ-PG-»Ûh-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-mG-ZïÅ-zIP-Mã-»ôh-mü zŤ-ºV¼-Áôh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-Ç+ݾ-ÇÀôP-‚Å-bïü zŤ-V¼-GP-‚ãP-z-»ÛG-Gï¼-z;ôh-hï-ZÛm-GÅÞ¤-XïÅ-ÈÑm-TßÅ-=P-ym-HÛ-¤hÝm-ÇÀïzÅ-bï-Eïh-¼P-GÛÅ-mG-ZïÅ-¤P-qô-zÅGÅ-»ôhü hP-qôü zôh-¼P-z®m-ºfôz-qºÛ-¼ï-ÇeôP-zTPÅ-q-¤-¸hü GŸm-¾ºP-hï-¤±ßPÅ->Àh-Bôm-zbP-zü GZÛÅ-qü Z¼-hGôÅ-qºÛ-¤ºô-»Û-Ç+Ý-hq¼-¤-Z¼-z¼-bØ-¾ºÛ-ºi-q¼-Z¼-z-hP-ü ¾ôG-uôh-qÅ-¾ôG-uôh-qºÛ-ºGô-G®ôºÛ-q¼-Z¼-m-hôm-hP-¤±ßPÅ-ˆP-hï-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ¼-vh-qü GÅÞ¤-qü uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-q-zŸÛm-©ôPÅ-hh-¤Û-VôG-ˆP.ü zTß-ÁôG-bà-Ÿ¾-ºhïzÅ-zÇÀPÅ-mÅ-hGº-¿km-¿S-¤Vôh-ZÛm-¤Vôh-¤ï-¤P-qô-Çt¼-z-zTÅ-

Page 200: 14 mount-everest-dingri

178

178 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

hï-hG-‚ïh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-hP-ü h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-Áôh- ï̧¼üym-HÛÅ-hP-qôü ¤Z¤-ºƒï¾-M¾-±ôGÅ-ˆÛ-±ôGÅ-Vïm-Ç+zÅ-

Zï¼-iâG-qºÛ-fôG-IôÅ-GŸÛ-ÅÞ¤-zM-¿ËG-®¤-»ôh-DôPÅ-mÅ-zôh-ˆÛ-Gmh-hôm-ÍP-hP-qô-¼ïhü TïÅ-Eïh-±ôºÛ-±GÅ-ÁôG-mP-fôm-q¼-zdïmü ¼P-GÛ-zŤ-„Àô¼-ÇS¼-HÛ-M¾-¼zÅ-¾ô-MãÅ-ÅôGÅ-mÅ-zôh-¼P-z®m-G®P-¤ºÛ-M¾-Dz-TÛG-»Ûm-q-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¼-vôh-fÞz-q-hP.ü ¤Z¤-ºƒï¾-M¾-±ôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-IPÅ-ZÝP-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-ˆÛ-fôz-fP-z½ÀG-bà-¤-zTßG-qºÛ-zhïm-q¼-M¾-D-fôz-Çeïü M-¼ÛGÅ-n¤Å-¤fº-Côh-zbP-mÅü zôh-¾-zhïm-qºÛ-ZÛ-¤-ºV¼-Mã-zŤÅ-mÅ-¼P-z®m-ºfôz-ˆÛ-¼ïh-TïÅ-fG-zTh-mÅ-zÁh-q-»Ûmü GZÛÅ-qü zôh-¼P-z®m-ºfôz-Mã-hP-ü hï-Oæz-q¼-¤²h-¤Dm-HÛ-hzÞ-FÛh-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤¼-ym-»Ûh-VïÅ-ˆÛ-hh-q-zdm-qô-»ôhü ¼ÛG-Gż-Ç+zÅ-M¾-¯ï-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤ºÛ-Ç+Ý-hq¼-G»ÞGÅ-q-¼P-ZÛh-¾ôG-uôh-q-»Ûm-qÅü zhG-Z¼-‚Å-bï-XïÅ-ÅÞ-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ¼-vh-q-»Ûmü GÅÞ¤-qü ¤Û-GŸm-GTÛG-¾-»P-¾ï-DG-¤ïh-q¼-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-zTß-ÁôG-mP-Ÿ¾-ºhïzÅ-zÇkÝÅ-bï-hGº-¿km-¿S-¤Vôh-ZÛm-¤Vôh-¤ï-wÞ¾-z-hPôÅ-zhïm-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ü hï-»P-zôh-¼P-z®m-ºfôz-MãºÛ-dïm-ºƒï¾-Ǩôm-

Page 201: 14 mount-everest-dingri

179

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇk Ý -¾-Zïü 179

¾¤-hP-zTÅ-wÞ¾-z-»Ûmü PºÛ-Åï¤Å-mP-Mãm-mÅ-hï-¿e¼-»ôh-q¼-zdïm-‚-uôh-ˆP-hï-¿e¼-fôm-q-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü Èm-Tßh-=P-GÛÅ-¤ï-¤hº-ºEï¼-zºÛ-hI-zô-¯-¤ïh-¸Ûm-»P-ü ¤ïh-¤hº-¤ïh-qºÛ-hI-zô-ÇS¼-zŸÛm-GmÅ-»ôhü Dô-q-hP-P-±ô-ÆôG-hP-zÇkôÅ-bï-ºfz-¯ôh-‚-Mã-»Ûmü G®ô-º²Ûm-¤ºôºÛ-»ÛÅ-GÅÞPÅ-q-¿e¼-¤Û-Pm-Eôh-ˆÛ-¼ï-ÇeôP-mÛ-ÁÛP-hݤ-º±ÛGÅ-mÅ-f¾-z¼-Hã¼-»P-ÇÀ¼-ÁÛP-hÝ-ºHã¼-Mã-hP-ü ¼ô-¾-hzÞGÅ-ºfôzü lô-¾-Çtä-Bï-zºÛ-¼ï-z-‚Å-q-¿e¼-¾Å-¤-ºhÅü

zôh-mÛ-=âP-GôºÛ-¤Pº-DôPÅ-D-ƒ¾-hÝ-¤Û-ÆÛh-qºÛ-V-ÁÅ-ÁÛG-¼ïhüºIô-¤Gôm-VôÅ-M¾-ºwGÅ-q¼-M-mG-M¾-qôÅ-Èô-fôG-fÞºÛ-Gô-mÅ-GmP-z-hP-ü zôh-ˆÛ-»ÛG-Gï¼-¾ÞGÅ-GZÛÅ-GôP-¤-FÛ¤Å-zhG-TïÅ-ºDôh-q-hï-M-mG-GôP-¤¼-Gô-hGôÅü ¿Ë-źÛ-lô-¼ÛP-ÅôGÅ-ÅÞ-M-zôh-»Û-Gï-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-ˆP-zôh-ºhÛ-M-mG-GÛ-V-ÁÅ-»Ûm-qºÛ-Pô-dGÅ-Gž-qô-Çeôm-HÛ-»ôhühï-n¤Å-zŤ-„Àô-zbP-mÅ->Àh-q¼-Z¼-hGôÅü h-hÝP-zŤ-„Àô-Gż-q-hP->Àh-q¼-Nå¼-zTôÅ-GbP-Mã-¤ïh-xÛm-¤ôG-¯ï-GZÛÅ-(lïºÞ-GTÛG-GÛ-¼Ûm-GôP-) ˆÛ-hI-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-XïÅ-z¸ÞP-Ço-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-FÛh-mÅ-ÇKï¼-zTßG-‚ïh-źÛ-DP-VßP-ŸÛG-bà-zTßG-‚ãP.ü

¤Þ-¤fÞh-¹-z-GZÛÅ-®¤-¼ÛP-iÛ-¯h-Dô-m-‚Å-XïÅ-»P-fïPÅ-ÁÛG-ºfz-¯ôh-GbôP-xÛ¼-v-¾ÞP-zM-ÁôG-bà-FÛh-hïü ºfz-¯ôh-Ç+zÅ-

Page 202: 14 mount-everest-dingri

180

180 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ym-¾-Gb¤-zXôh-ˆÛ-¼P-hzP-Gbm-mÅ-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü ºfz-¯ôh-hPôÅ-GŸÛ-GbôP-ZÛm-zŤ-ºV¼-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-‚ïh-¤Û-zTß-GÅÞ¤-®¤-‚ãP-z-mÅü ºGÅ-Åï¤Å-z¸P-GÛÅ-mG-ZïÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-¤-‚Å-m-¤Û-GŸm-HÛÅ-zÁh-¸Ûm-qÅ-¤FïG-z¸ÞP-‚Å-mÅ-TÛ-¾-wm-ŸïÅ-hP-ü M¾-¯ï-z-D-¤ô-hPôÅ-Iâz-ˆÛÅ-Eïh-¼P-M-G¼-¾-ƒôÅ-mÅ-»P-zB¼-hqÞP-¼ôGÅ-FÛh-hï-z®ôm-DP-Gbô¼-MãºÛ-ºV¼-GŸÛ-z¸ôÅ-q-hP.ü ºhÛ¼-¾G-£ï¾-‚ïh-źÛ-¤Û-»P-z¸ôÅ-»ôhü JÀïm-dGÅ-hï-¼ÛGÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-Gž-qô-ŸÝ-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁhü hï-ZÛm-ºfz-¯ôh-¾-M-hqôm-ÈàºÞ-»Ûh-±Û¤Å-mÅ-¤WâG-zÇkô¤Å-GÅÞP-zÁh-Ç+zÅ-hï-¼ÛP-È-TP-»G-qô-‚ãP-ü h-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-Iô¾-HÛ-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-Ç+h-V-¤±¤Å-zŸG-Ç+zÅ-ym-HÛÅ-±ÛG-D-ÁÅ-zÁh-VôG-G¤ü ŸïÅ-M-¾Å-ÈàºÞ-¾-iÛ-Ç+zÅü hÝG-¯-¤Ûm-qºÛ-Ç+h-V-zÁh-VôG-TïÅ-GmP-z-vh-q-¿e¼ü ym-HÛÅ-hï-¼ÛP-ym-¾-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-GmP-¤Dm-DG-GZÛÅ-mÅ-¤P-Vï-zÅ-Vz-ÆÛh-hP-ü zŤ-„Àô¼-d-D-G»P-Å-mÅ-ºfïm-q-¿e-zÞºÛ-wm-fôGÅ-‚ãP.ü ºôm-ˆP-¤Û-ºGº-ÁÅ-ˆÛÅ-ym-ºHï¾-zºÛ-fôG-lôG-μÛÅ-¸ï¼-z-¿e¼-hôm-¤ïh-ljôm-º²âGÅ-ˆÛ-ŸÐ-¤ô-G»ôGÅ-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-D-¤ô-hPôÅ-Iâz-ˆÛ-hï¼ü¾m-MÅ-q¼-ºhïzÅ-lj¤-¤Þ¼-M-¾Å-ÈàºÞ-»ÛÅ-ym-¾-mô¼-ºFâ¾-»ôh-m-»ô-zÆP-hP.ü ¤ïh-m-hôGÅ- ô̧m-‚ïh-q-¾Å-¾m-ºhïzÅ-¤Û-VôG-TïÅ-zÁh-

Page 203: 14 mount-everest-dingri

181

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇk Ý -¾-Zïü 181

¤-zTßG-q¼-z¸ÞP-Ço-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-FÛhü hï¼-iÛ-z-fïPÅ-GZÛÅ-®¤-z;ôh-q¼-FÛh-qºÛ-fïPÅ-XïÅ-¤ºÛ-iÛ-zºÛ-Ç+zÅ-GTÛm-q-GbôP-z¼-hGôPÅ-q-ŸÝÅ-bï-ºIô-Ç+zÅü ¾G-q-¿UGÅ-ˆÛÅ-zTÛPÅ-»ôh-qÅ-Ç+ïh-¼GÅ-z=ô¾-¤Û-fÞz-Aïm-z®ôm-q-Çkï-hGï-z-zÅôh-M¾-GTÛm-q-GbôP-zŸÛm-q-PºÛ-Ç+ï-¼GÅ-z=ô¾-¼ôGÅ-HÛÅ-hP-ü ŸïÅ-zÁh-qÅ-¾m-±ÛG-GTÛG-¤-zbz-q¼-ƒôÅ-ÅôP-zÅ-hï-ºiºÛ-¤ÛºÛ-fzÅ-ÇkÝG-¾-zŤ-mÅ-bàh-=P-Iô-¤ô-d-¤IÛm-hzP-xãG-¾-¾G-¿UGÅ-z=ô¾-hGôÅ-qºÛ-¼ï-z-zbôm-q-zŸÛm-z=ô¾-‚ãP-ü

hï-mÅ-z¸ÞP-ÆôG-fôG-hP-¾ô-±h-WÛ-¿e¼-z¸ô-ÇezÅ-zhï-lj¤-ÇeïüÅï¤Å-fG-Vôh-qôÅ-¤FïG-z¸ÞP-‚Å-q¼-zdïmü ºW¤-¤DÅ-¾Å-²-iG-hP-GhÝG-¯çz-ˆÛ-iÛ-z-GbôP-¤±¤Å-zŸG-ˆP-ü ¸Å-vôh-¤Dm-¾Å-¤Û-ÅÞ-GTÛG-fÞG-¤-zTßG-q¼-@P-¾G-¿UGÅ-ˆÛÅ-OôG-Çeï-DP-VßP-ŸÛG-bà-ÇKï¼-zTßG-‚Åü ºVÛ-GÅôm-WÛ-¿e¼-ºôP-»P-BzÅ-„À-¤-h;ôm-¤VôG-¼Ûm-qô-Vï-»Ûm-lj¤-Çeï-ZÛm-hP-z¼-GÅïP-GP-»ôh-¾-Oô¾-¤-hP-ü ¤-aÛ-ºƒâ-iâG GÝ-¼ÞºÛ-¤±m-ÇSGÅü »ÛG-zM-zTÅ-IPÅ-GÅôG-hP-ü hGôP-¤ô-¤Þm-¼Þz-q-hP-Z¾-VÅ-ˆÛ-¼Å-hƒ¾-mÅ-¿UGÅ-OôG-¾-h=ÛÅ-bï-Ç+h-¤Û-fôÅ-q-z¸ôÅ-mÅ-xG-º±¾-Mã-zTÅ-ºGô-z®ßGÅü

ÅP-ZÛm-ŸôGÅ-q-m¤-B-¿kP-z-hP-ÇKô-»ôh-qºÛ-GŸôGÅ-¿Ëô-mÅ-Ç+zÅ-¼ï-d-wôºÛ-lôG-O-¿e-zÞü »P-Ç+zÅ-¼ï-GTm-G¸m-HÛÅ-¸-Zï¼-fÞG-

Page 204: 14 mount-everest-dingri

182

182 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

qºÛ-hÝh-ºIô-ŸÛG-hPPÅ-º±z-ˆÛÅ-ƒôÅ-qºÛ-lôG-O-¿e-zÞ-»Þm-¼ÛP-IGÅ-q| »-¤±m-BïÅ-bï-ŸÛz-q¼-Zm-Ç+zÅ-hÝh-ºIô-ŸÛG-GÛ-©ÛG-O-»Ûm-q-ÁïÅü ºôm-ˆP-ºhÛºÛ-Zï-ºDô¼-¤Û-GTÛG-EÛ-GTÛG-¤ïh-q¼-hÝh-ºIôºÛ-©ÛG-O-ºhÛ-TÛ-»Ûm-m¤-lj¤ü

ÅP-ZÛm-»P-hÝÅ-±ôh-hï-G¼-©ÛG-O-IGÅ-qÅ-O-hï-mÛ-hÝÅ-hï-mÅ-z¸ÞP-PºÛ-hÝÅ-ÇS-xÛ-¿e-zºÛ-Vß-±ôh-¿e-zÞ¼-Hã¼ü

hÝÅ-±ÛGÅ-Åô-Åô¼-¸Å-¾Å-¤ÛºÛ-fôz-fP-¿e¼-Vh-¤ïh-Bï¾-zÅ-¸Å- Û̂-h;º-P¾-¤ïh-TÛP-¾Å-;-¤ïh-Aïm-¯¤-q-¿ËG-¤-mÅ-G»ôÅ-bïü P-¾-¸Å-vôh-źÛ-DÞP-zÞ-hï¼-z=¤Å-bï-zhG-¤ïh-hÝh-ºIô-ŸÛG-¾-wm-¼ï-zHÛÅü ZÛm-ÁÅ-mÅ-¸Å-hï¼-DP-‚ÛºÞ-¼ï-GZÛÅ-ÁÛG-ºDô¼-z-hP-hï-mÅ-¼Û¤-qÅ-¤P-hÝ-ºIô-z-PÅ-ˆP-ZÛm-¼ï-mÅ-¸Å-M-Vï-®¤-z=¤Å-qÅü ‚ÛºÞ-hï-hG-ˆP-¼P-ZÛh-¾-ºWÛGÅ-ÇoP-»ï-¤ïh-q¼-¤f¼-PºÛ-z®ôm-DP-hï-‚ÛºÞ-GÅô-BôP-‚ïh-qºÛ-¼-z-¿e-zÞ¼-Hã¼-bïü ‚ÛºÞ-n¤Å-PºÛ-qÞÅ-¤ôºÛ-G»Å-G»ôm-¾-zG-wïzÅ-PP-w¼-Mã-±ß¼-Mã-‚ïhü

P-ÇKï¼-zTßG-‚Å-mÅ-¹-z-GÅÞ¤-XïÅ-ˆÛ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-‚ÛºÞ-n¤Å-PÅ-¢Ûm-qºÛ-¸Å-º±P-G-ÁÛG-ÁÛG-GÛÅ-¸-Ç+zÅü ÇKô-D¼-lÛG-O-ŸÛG-IGÅ-qÅ-‚ÛºÞ-n¤Å-ºiôGÅ-bïü GÝ-hôG-qºÛ-DP-VßP-hïºÛ-mP-º±z-º±ßz-ˆÛÅ-ºwÞ¼-zBôh-‚Å-bï-PºÛ-G»Å-G»ôm-‚ÛºÞºÛ-Çtä-OôÅ-Ez-TÛP-ü

Page 205: 14 mount-everest-dingri

183

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇk Ý -¾-Zïü 183

‚ÛºÞ-ºGº-HP-¾-fÞG-mÅ-Å-ÇeïP-ºIï-¾ôG-‚ïh-TÛP-GmÅ-q-hP-ü ¤P-Vï-z-DP-qºÛ-DÞP-zÞ-mÅ-º±P-G-ÁÛG-ÁÛG-xÛ¼-fômü ¾G-GÛÅ-‚ÛºÞ-©Å-±zÅ-Vï-ÁôÅ-hï-z¸ÞP-mÅ-¤Gô-zô¼-wÞ-ºhïzÅ-ˆÛm-ºhÅ-¤-fG-qºÛ-O-hï-TÛ-»Ûm-m¤-lj¤-DÞP-zÞ-hï-mÅ-z¿eÅ-qÅü DÞP-zÞºÛ-Zï-ºI¤-;Û-¾ô-xïh-¿ËG-®¤-»ôh-qºÛ-¤¼-lôG-TÛG-G»ÞGÅ-ºhÝG-q-hP-ü ¿UGÅ-¼ÛºÛ-HP-ºhzÅ-‚P-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-G¸ÞGÅ-hï-®¤-Vïm-qô-¤ïh-TÛP-ü Çeôh-GôÅ-hP-hô¼-¤-h¤¼-qô-Hôm-qºÛ-¤Û-¤Gô-¼Û¾-ŸÛG-w¼-¿e-±ß¼-¿eºÛ-PP-uP-IâP-Vïm-qôÅ-DP-VßP-ŸÛG-GÛ-Mz-xôGÅ-¥ã¼-z¼-zBôhü ¤Gô-hP-IÔ-VÅ-¾Å-z¸ôÅ-qºÛ-B-VÅ-¾-z¿eÅ-m-IÔ-q-ŸÛG-»Ûm-q-ÁïÅ-‚ãP-¾ü¤Û-hï-XïÅ-ÅÞ-Pô-dGÅ-Vôh-xÛ¼-PºÛ-Åï¤Å-mP-¾m-ºGº-¤Û-hïºÛ-h‚ÛzÅ-im-GÅô-‚ïh-ˆÛm-¾G-bà-z¸ÞP-zºÛ-‚ÛºÞ-©Å-¤ºÛ-¤Gô-zô¼-wÞ-ºhïzÅ-Ç+zÅü ‚ÛºÞ-hï-ºwÞ¼-ºhôh-qºÛ-ºwG-º±G-‚ïh-q-PÅ-»¼-º²â¾-źÛ-DÞP-zÞºÛ-¤hÝm-zŸG-¤-fG-m¤-¤DºÛ-¤fôPÅ-ÅÞ-ºwÞ¼ü

ym-HÛ-ZïÅ-q¼-GŸÛGÅ-m-ÆôG-fôG-GTh-Mã-¾Å-ºôÅ-¤ïh-ˆP-ÇeïÅ-hzP-GÛ-hï-¾Å-»P-zºÛ-ZïÅ-q-ºi-»P-GbôP-ÆÛh-lj¤-Çeïü hGôP-¤ô-ŸÛG-»ÛG-VßP-GÛ-ÆôG-fôG-hP-ü ¾ô-±hü JÀôh-ºIô¾-zTÅ-hôm-±m-GÅÞ¤-z;ôh-mÅ-ÇtGÅ-¼Û¾-mP-zOÛ¾-bï-Å-ÇeïP-zŸG-mÅ-GZÛh-Z¾ü

ÅP-ZÛm-ÇS-iô-»¼-¾PÅ-mÅ-¿e-Ç+zÅ-ÇtGÅ-¼Û¾-GTÛG-®Û-®ÛÅ-

Page 206: 14 mount-everest-dingri

184

184 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ºEï¼-ºhÝG-q-¿ËG-¤-GZÛÅ-hï-ÇSôG-Ç+zÅ-ÆôG-fôG-hP-ü JÀôh-ºIô¾-GZÛÅ-zŸG-ºhÝG ZÛm-ÁÅ-XïÅ-GôP-ºDôh-hôm-±m-GÅÞ¤-hï-z;ôh-mÅ-‚ÛºÞ-¾-»P-zdG-q-ŸÛG-zHÛÅ-bï-‚-¼-‚ïh-Ç+zÅü ZÛ-GŸôm-m¤-¤D¼-ºV¼-®¤-¾-º±P-G-ÁÛG-ÁÛG-GÛÅ-º²â¾-»ôP-zºÛ-‚ÛºÞ-n¤Åü m¤-Mãm-hP-¤Û-ºi-zºÛ-uP-IâP-hôh-qô-hP-D¤Å-ÅôÅ-ÉÛG-ÉÛG-PP-Å-ÇeïP-GÛ-¸Å-n¤Å-zOæGÅ-q-hP-ü ‚ÛºÞ-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-ÆôG-fôG-mP-ºDôh-ÇtGÅ-¼Û¾-hï-OæG-Zï¼-xÛ¼-zÁÛGÅ-®¤-‚Å-bïü ÇÀ¼-»¼-»ôP-mÅ-¾ô-±h-mP-ºDôh-ÇtGÅ-¼Û¾-ºEï¼-mÅ-‚ÛºÞºÛ-±P-G-zÁGÅ-mÅ-xÛ¼-fômü

¤±m-¤ô-‚Û-z-hP-ZÛm-¤ô-®Û-®Û¼-zdG-q-‚Å-ºƒÅ-ÆôG-fôG-¾Å-f¼-®¤-¤Û-»ôP-P¤-lj¤ü

¹-z-iâG-XïÅ-ˆÛ-ŸôGÅ-q-ŸÛG-m¤-¾PÅ-®¤-¾-PºÛ-z®ôm-DP-GÛ-ÇKô-xï-Çeï-M-¾Å-¼Þ-hqôm-Lm-q-zÅôh-m¤Å-wÞm-±ôGÅ-»ôP-Çeïü Eïh-¼P-hï-¼ÛP-mÅ-z¸ÞP-ZÛ-¤¼-fôm-m-ºIÛG-TïÅ-zÁh-‚ãP-zÅü ZÛm-hï-G¼-PÅ-xÛ-¼ô¾-hÝ-fôm-mÅ-z®ôm-DP-GÛ-Dô¼-»ÞG-¾-MP-¿e-‚ïh-Ç+zÅüz®ôm-DP-hï-mÛ-»¼-º²â¾-Ç+zÅ-ˆÛ-BÛ-G»º-z-hï-¿e-zÞ-¤Ûm-q¼-ŸôGÅ-qºÛ-ZÛ-GŸôm-HÛ-ºôh-¸ï¼-Ez-TÛP-ü Bï-hPôÅ-hP-¯Û-ÁÛP-fôG-ºhz-VGÅ-ˆÛ-Ç+h-ljm-OôG-qü »Ûh-ºôP-GÛ-Çtä-¤hôG-¿km-qºÛ-¬-¤Dm-mï-®ô-Eã-hP-Eã-w¼-±ß¼-ºwÞ¼-zBôh-‚ïhü h-hÝP-G»Å-G»ôm-hÝ-¤ÛºÛ-Mã-ºIâ¾-

Page 207: 14 mount-everest-dingri

185

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇk Ý -¾-Zïü 185

‚ïh-qºP-¤fôP-Mã-¤VÛÅüPºÛ-z®ôm-DP-GÛ-¿ËôºÛ-©ÛG-O-hï-ŸôGÅ-q-fô-¼ïPÅ-mÅ-h-hÝP-

IGÅ-¤±¤Å-Vh-¤ïh-qÅ-PÅ-G¸z-mm-HÛÅ-¿e-z¼-ºIô-Ç+zÅü ¤fº-GÅÞ¤-¾-HP-hP-¤hÝm-PôÅ-¿UGÅ-FÅ-zÇ+ô¼-zºÛ-¼-z-ŸÛG-GÛ-mP-Á-ÇeôzÅ-MÅ-qºÛ-JÀ-z-wô-ŸÛG-Dô¤-q-Ç+h-TÛG-ˆP-¤ïh-q¼ü w¼-MãG-±ß¼-MãG-GÛÅ-G»Å-G»ôm-HÛ-HP-¿kïzÅ-¾-¤VôPÅ-mÅ-P¾-z-hqG-¤ïh-zÇeïm-zŸÛm-ºhÝG

¼ÛGÅ-¤fÞm-hP-¤Z¤-hÝ-ÁÛP-mGÅ-h Û̂¾-zG-wïzÅ- Û̂-zhï-z-¥P-Mã-¤ïh-q¼-¼-z-ºhÛºÛ-mP-ü ZÛm-¤±m-¿eôÅ-¤ïh-hzP-¤ïh-GmÅ-hGôÅ-q-JÀ-wô-Eïh-zÅôh-m¤Å-VßP-lj¤-q-hP-ü »P-JÀ-wô¼-ºDP-¼-‚ïh-Mã-TÛ-»ôhü P-¼P-¬-ÁïÅ-hôm-Gô-zºÛ-¤Û-ŸÛG-»Ûm-»P-GmÅ-ÇePÅ-ºhÛ-¿e-zÞ¼-H¼-z-Åï¤Å-¼ï-Bôü ¿ËG-q¼-GmÅ-»Þ¾-hP-ü ¾Å-hzP-ü ¾P-±ô-Z¤-zTßG-¤Û-ºhôh-q-hP-f¼-ºhôh-ˆÛÅ-z®ôm-¼ºÛ-mP-PÅ-dG-bà-AP-xG-º±ô¾-z-hP-ü JÀ-wôÅ-¯¾-¢ôP-‚ïh-q-zTÅ-xôGÅ-¤P-qô-ŸÛG-mÅ-GTÛG-Hã¼-»Ûm-qºÛ-P-GZÛÅ-z¼-±ï-¼zÅ-ÇSôm-¤ºÛ-¾Å- Û̂-ºƒï¾-z-ŸÛG-»ôh-PïÅ-lj¤-Çeïü z®ôm-DP-mP-xÛm-mÅ-ÇtGÅ-ÁÛG-G»ôÅ-bï-¾G-G-¾ï¼-¿UGÅ-FºÛ-GÅïP-zAPÅ-mÅ-JÀ-wô¼-vhü

ZÛm-dG-q¼-hï-¿e¼-‚Å-qÅ-hP-qô-iÛ-Çoô¤-¼ï-‚Å-mÅ-ºiôGÅ-qºÛ-

Page 208: 14 mount-everest-dingri

186

186 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

JÀ-z-hï-XïÅ-ÅÞ-ÇKô-xãGÅ-zŸÛm-hݾ-mÅ-PÅ-‚Û¾-‚Û¾-ÅôGÅ-zHÛÅ-Ç+zÅ-hï-®¤-HÛ-P-hP-fG-Zï¼-zT¼ü ZÛm-ŸÛG-P-¾-¸Å-Bï¾-¤Dm-HÛÅ-zôh-¿YôPÅ-ZÛm-¼ïºÛ-±GÅ-ÁôG-TÛG-vh-q-hï¼-z¿eÅ-qÅü ¤ºô-=âºÞ-ŸÛÅ-VôG-¤Vm-vh-q-hP.ü ®ßP-¾Û-=ºÞ-Íïm-¾m-HÛÅ-¾G-Çe¼-‚Å-qü VôG-q-GTÛG-hP.ü ¤Û-VôG-q-zŸÛ-¾G-¾ïm-zÇe¼-hGôÅü VôG-q-GTÛG-mÛü ZïÅ-¤ïh-z®ôm-hÝ-zTßG-q¼-ŸÝ-GbàG-VôG-qü ¤Û-VôG-q-zŸÛ-mÛü ¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-Gô-hGôÅ-q-ºhÛ-¿e¼ü 1) w-ÁÛ-ÅÛ-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-ºi-zºÛ-FÛ¤Å-GTôh-¤Û-VôG-qü 2) w-ÁÛ-ÅÛ-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-ºi-zºÛ-GÁï-GÁï-¤Û-GbôP-Mãü 3) w-ÁÛ-ÅÛ-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-ºi-zºÛ-ZïÅ-lÝP-¤Û-GbôP-Mãü 4) w-ÁÛ-ÅÛ-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-ºi-zºÛ-Mã-hPôÅ-¤Û-ºyôG-Mãü hôm-±m-ºhÛ-n¤Å-z®ôm-q¼-¤Û-uôh-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-º²Ûm-MãºÛ-hôm-hÝ-¾G-Çe¼-‚-Mã-Åï¤Å-¾-ºWôG-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-Gž-»ôhü hôm-Gmh-ºhÛ-n¤Å-hPôÅ-fôG-V-±P-¾G-¾ïm-zÇe¼-¤Ûm-GÁ¤-mÅ-ÁïÅ-Mãü uÛ-¾ô- 1973 ¹- 12 ±ïÅ- 21 ¤±m-¤ôºÛ-Æôh-¾-ÇS¼-zŸÛm-ym-PG-mÅ-»ÛG-zM-ºhôm-ŸÛP-ü xG-º±¾-zŸÛm-q-ÇKô-ºI¤-¤Û-ŸÛG-ÇÀïzÅ-qºÛ-±ô¼-ÇoP-‚ãP-z-TßP-¿Ëôh-®¤-PP-Zm-qÅü ÇKôºÛ-GÅïP-

Page 209: 14 mount-everest-dingri

187

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇk Ý -¾-Zïü 187

mÅ-n-z¼-fôÅ-¥ôP-zºÛ-zÞh-¤ïh-ˆÛ-Ç+h-GTÛG-GÛÅü PG-hzP-ÅP-ZÛm-Eïh-¼P-FÛ¤Å-fG-GTh-Mã-»Ûm-»P-ÆÛh-WâÅ-¾-ºHã¼-z-xÛm-qÅ-ÆôG-fôG-GbP-GÛ-¤-¼ïhü Åï¤Å-¿Ëôh-qô¼-Çkôh-TïÅ-zÁh-‚ãP-z-»-¤±m-BïÅ-bï-w¼-±ÛG-GTÛG-zÁh-¾ôP-¤ïh-q¼-PºÛ-z®ôm-DP-GÛ-Zï-ºI¤-mÅ-fG-¼ÛP-hÝ-HïÅ-q-lôG-O-¾Å-ÁïÅü

ym-ÇKï¼-zTßG-z;G-Z¼-‚Å-mÅ-¹-z-zTß-GTÛG-hP.ü ŸG-zTô-zMh-ºhÅ-qºÛ-ÅP-ZÛm-hï-±ôGÅ-Vïm-ŸÛG-Ç+ôP-zºÛ-ÇeïGÅ-zÞ¼-ym-@P-¾G-¿UGÅ-OôG-GÛÅ-zTÛPÅ-zŸÛm-zÇÀPÅ-q-hP-ü ¤²ô-ÇKôP-z-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ-»P-GŸôGÅ-GTÛG-¾-zÇÀPÅü M-hqôm-HÛÅ-Gb¤-zÁh-Çtï¾-zºÛ-mP-zôh-¼P-BôP-¿YôPÅ-¤fô-¼Û¤-¤Û-¤P-FÛ¤Å-DP-mÅ-hrh-F-»ÛG-¼ÛGÅ-ÍP- 76 mP-Gž-¿e¼ü ym-¾-FÛ¤Å-Vh-¾ô-¿S-hP.ü MãG-EÛ-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞÅ-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-GÛ-z;ôh-q-zŸÛm-hïP-hÝÅ-ˆÛ-Gż-zXïºÛ-Pô-¾ôG-qºÛ-GÅP-zºÛ-±ôGÅ-¤Û-zTô-zMh-z¸ôÅ-Ç+ô¼-hP-ü DôP-¾-¾ô-GÅÞ¤-z®ôm-ºWâG-FÛ¤Å-Vh-zbP-üPºÛ-GÁ¤-HÛ-¤Û-iâG-mÅ-¤²ô-ÇKôP-z-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞÅ-¤-¤f¼-±ôGÅ-¤Û-zTô-zMh-z®ßGÅ-»ôh-q-GŸÛ-mÅ-ÁïÅ-‚ãP-¾ü GŸm-¿S-qôÅ-±ôGÅ-¤Û-G-±ôh-zÇkÝÅ-»ôh-¤ïh-¤Û-ÁïÅ-ˆP-GP-¿e¼-P-±ôºÛ-GÅP-zºÛ-¤Û-Ço-M-Vï¼-Ez-»ôh-q-PïÅ-Gbm-»Ûmü

Page 210: 14 mount-everest-dingri

188

188 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

Gô-ºWô-z-h;ôm-¤VôG-zÇem-º²Ûm-HÛÅ-¯ÛÅ-vôh-‚Å-Aïmü±ôGÅ-¤Û-zTô-zMh-»ôh-Ç+ô¼-¤²ô-ÇKôP-z-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞÅ-PôÅ-¾ïm-¤-‚Å-¤fÞ-¤ïh-‚ãP-z-¼ïhü ZÛm-hï-G¼-P-GZÛÅ-P¾-¯ô¾-Nå¼-z;ôh-¼Þ-DG-bà-zbP-ü

JÀô-zÞ¼-HÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-hïÅ-ym-ÆôG-fôG-bà-¤-zbP-z¼-hï-mÅ-z¸ÞP-Ço¼-h¤G-uÛ-±ôGÅ-VßP-(P-hGݺÛ-Ç+zÅ-zôh-ˆÛ-hP-„ÀP-h¤G-uÛ-n¤Åü)ŸïÅ-qºÛ-z®ôm-qºÛ-DÞPÅ-zŸG IôGÅ-qô-±ôÅ-Åï¤Å-ºDÞ¼-„À-¤ïh-ˆÛÅ-ŸÛ¤-qºÛ-¸Å-¤ïh-ˆP-¿eôGÅ-q¼-¾ÞÅ-hôGÅ-fzÅ-GP-iG-GÛÅ-¸Å-Bï¾-HÛ-»ôhü P-±ôºÛ-±ôGÅ-VßP-hP-fG-Zï-zºÛ-„À-¤-±ôGÅ-VßP-hÝ-¹-ÁÅ-ÇSôm-P-¾-GÅP-zºÛ-fôG-¤¼-vôh-¤Dm-HÛ-¤Û-hï-ºhÝG-qü PÅ-Vz-¤hô-z-±ï-¼ÛP-z=-ÁÛÅ-¾-„À-Lm-DôP-GÛ-¤ÛP-¾-TÛ-¸ï¼-iÛÅ-qÅü ±ï-¼ÛP-z=-ÁÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-GÝÅ-ŸzÅ-Vïm-qôÅ-Ÿï-Å-hP-zTÅ-¼-¤Gô-væ¾-Ç+Ý-qj¨-zhï-Vïm-ŸÝ-»Û-¼ïh-TïÅ-Pô-vôh-‚Å-‚ãP-ü

fïPÅ-ÁÛG-fï¼-GbôP-z-hÛP-¼Û-w-iâG-q-ºyÛm-¾Å-wÞm-±ôGÅ-ym-GbàG-q¼-»ôP-mÅ-¸Þ¼-ŸÛG-bà-FÛh-hï-¸Å-vôh-ˆÛmü ym-h¤¼-GÅôh-GbP-Mã-fG-Vôh-qü ¼Þ-DG-»ôPÅ-ÅÞ-IGÅ-q-hP-ü »¼-ºƒôG-D-ºz¼-zÅôh-m¤Å-hzP-ºhÝÅ-¾-M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-zÅÞm-G®ï¼-Vï-ŸÛP-¿ËG-q¼-ym-h¤¼-GÅôh-GbP-Mã-hïÅ-ljÛP-¾-lô-ºwôG-q-¿e-zÞºÛ-

Page 211: 14 mount-everest-dingri

189

PºÛ-±ï-ÆôG-¤WâG-zÇk Ý -¾-Zïü 189

Åï¤Å-P¾-‚ãP-Çeïü Í-Tô-PG-hzP-ºVÛ-ÇKÝG-‚ïh-q-¾Åü P-¼P-ÇSôm-hÝ-ºVÛ-m-¾ïGÅ-ŸïÅ-ǨG-¼Þ¤-HÛÅ-ºfÛz-qºÛ-¤±m-¤ô-ŸÛG-z®ôm-q-hÝ-¤-¤VôPÅ-Å-ƒG-ÇeïP-hï¼-Hôm-GôÅ-wÞh-mÅ-Çtô-Vß¼-¿UïzÅü DôP-hP-ym-Q-Vïm-JÀôG-DP-hÝ-±ôGÅ-VßP-GTÛG-»Ûm-qÅ-hï-mÅ-z¸ÞP-GTÛG-„Àô-GTÛG-Dï¾-hP-ü ¤Z¤-¸-¤Z¤-ºfÞP-‚ïh-qºÛ-IôGÅ-qô-Çtäm-¤Vïh-¾Å-ˆP-¿ËG-q-ŸÛG-»Ûm-qÅü P-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚ïh-D¼-DôP-¾-ÇÀôz-GÅô-Gmh-ǨÛm-zMz-¤-fÞz-q-GmôPÅ-ºHôh-±h-¤ïh-BïÅ-‚ãP-ü

Page 212: 14 mount-everest-dingri

190

190 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zTß-zŸÛü

=ºô-»Û-XïÅ-ÅÞ-¤ºô-ÁÛ-zü(1974-1976)

uÛ-¾ô- 1974 ¾ôºÛ-hrÛh-;¼-P-±ô-¾Þh-ºEï¼-mÅ-TßP-fG-¼ÛP-hÝ-GmÅ-qºÛ-Iô-mÅ-ˆÛ-ŸÛP-D¼-Bï¾-Ç+zÅü ŸÛP-¾Þh-Bï¾-¤Dm-mÅ-ºƒôG-Ç+h-MG-qºÛ-wô-Gż-¾ô-Zï¼-GZÛÅ-®¤-Åôm-q-ŸÛG-fÞG-‚ãP-ü P-GZÛÅ-wm-±ßm-JÀïP-¤ô¾-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-DôP-hq¾-ºz¼-mÅ-»Ûm-q-hP-uÛ-¾ô-1969 ¾ôºÛ-Hïm-¾PÅ-mP-ŸÝGÅ-qÅ-z®ôm-Vh-¾ô-zTô-zMh-z¸ôÅ-Ç+ô¼-hP-ü h-hÝP-DôP-GÛÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1969 ¾ô¼-hq¾-ºz¼-μôP-hP.ü ¼Û-zô-Vï-μôP.ü EãP-qô-ÇeïP-Vïm-μôP.ü ÅôG-μôP.ü ºƒÛ-¼Þ-μôP-zTÅ-„Àô-Åï¤Å-GTÛG-¤fÞm-HÛÅ-M-h¤¼-¾-iG-ºfz-‚Å-bï-M-h¤G-hqÞP-Çkï-Vï-DG-GZÛÅ-®¤-¯-¤ïh-z¸ôÅü

M-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-P-±ô-iG-Gmôm-‚ïh-Vïh-Á¼-mÅ-Vz-¤hô-DÞ¾-GmÅ-

Page 213: 14 mount-everest-dingri

191

=ºô-»Û -X ïÅ-ÅÞ -¤ºô -ÁÛ -zü 191

qºÛ-h¤G-hqÞP-hP-ü ‚P-mÅ-¤±ô-ÇSôm-ŸÛP-Vïm-DÞ¾-HÛ-h¤G-hqÞP-ümÝz-mÅ-¿Ë-Å-DÞ¾-HÛ-h¤G-hqÞP-ü ¿Ëô-mÅ-Çtô-zô-xôGÅ-ˆÛ-h¤G-hqÞP-zTÅ-¤PGÅ-bï-xôGÅ-zŸÛ-mÅ-iG-Gmôm-ÁÝGÅ-Vï-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-wm-±ßm-¤Û-GÅôh-¤P-qô-‚Å-¤f¼ü Mz-dïm-ƒ¾-zºÛ-zôh-¤Û-n¤Å-w¤-ZïÅ-‚ãP-Çeï-¤Gô-ÇKݼ-mÅ-¤ï-¤hº-M-h¤G-GÛ-¤hÝm-ÇtäPÅ-ˆP-ü M-¤Û-¤P-qô-zÅh-qºÛ-ºDôm-º²Ûm-HÛÅ-zôh-¤Û-ZÛÅ-zM-¿ËG-®¤-Å-hï-G¼-h¤¼-GÅôh-zbP-ŸÛP-ü μôP-¤Gô-¿SºÛ-mP-mÅ-¤Û-IPÅ-VÛG-FÛ-¿ËG-®¤-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-q-hP-ü hq¾-ºz¼-μôP-mÅ-¤Û-iG-zM-hP-zMh-h¤¼-GÅôh-zbP.ü

P-±ôÅ-Hïm-¾PÅ-‚ïh-hôm-mÛü ÆÛh-WâÅ-¾ïGÅ-Ÿm-hP-ü P¾-¯ô¾-‚ïh-ºhôh-¤ïh-q-ÅôGÅ-hôm-¤ïh-¸P-¸ÛP-z¸ôÅ-q-ŸÛG-¯-z-mÅ-¤Ûm-q¼ü uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô¼-P-±ôºÛ-w-¤ïÅ-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-¼P-GÛ-M¾-Dz-Vïh-¾ÞÅ-ÆôG-zbP-mÅ-º²¤-JÀÛP-¾-IGÅ-»ôh-q-hP-ü P-±ôÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-¼P-GÛÅ-º²Ûm-BôP-‚ïh-qºÛ-Vïhü uÛ-¾ô- 1969 ¾ô¼-¾ÞÅ-ÆôG-IPÅ-¤ïh-zbP-mÅ-w-¤ïÅ-¾-Pô-GmôPÅ-¤-hGôÅ-q¼-º²¤-JÀÛP-fôG-zôh-¤ÛºÛ-ljÛP-ÇeôzÅ-¤±ôm-fÞz-q-ŸÛG-‚ãP-ü P-±ô-zôh-‚P-xôGÅ-Hïm-¾PÅ-qºÛ-z®ôm-q-n¤Å-z®ôm-DP-GP-ż-zbP-z-mÅü Vß-¤hô-z®ôm-DP-¼Þ-Vïm-hP.ü ¤hôP-Vß-z®ôm-DP-¼Þ-Vïm-GZÛÅ-¾-¤Û-IPÅ-¿S-zTß-¼ï-zbP-»ôhü

º‚ãP-ºHã¼-P-±ôºÛ-¤Û-¼zÅ-Gż-q-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-WÛ-ÆÛh-zôh-mÅ-

Page 214: 14 mount-everest-dingri

192

192 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

M-h¤¼-¤f¼-Côh-¤-fÞz-qü hï-ÆÛh-ºfz-¯ôh-¤Þ-¤fÞh-‚-Mã-»Ûm-q-P-¾-»Ûh-VïÅ-»ôhü TïÅ-GhïPÅ-ÇtôzÅ-Vï-ŸÛP-P-±ô¼-hôGÅ-q-®¤-»P-¤ïh-qºÛ-Áôh-±ß¾-hï¼-¿e-mü ¼P-¼ÛGÅ-¾-z¯ï-ŸÛP-¾ÞÅ-ÆôG-GbôP-z¼-fï-±ô¤-®¤-»P-¤ïh-q-hP-ü ¿ËG-q¼-Ç+h-V-n¤Å-ºƒôG-Ç+h-ˆÛ-GhPÅ-¾-iPÅ-mÅ-Áôh-Ç+zÅ-hï-zÅ-ˆP-DôP-GÛ-¾ÞÅ-mÅ-hqº-zºÛ-Z¤Å-ÁÛG-¤fôP-‚ãP-ü

h-hÝP-ŸÛP-ÇeïP-ÇÀïzÅ-¤ïh-qÅ-DôP-GÛÅ-P-¾-h¤¼-ÁôG-GÛ-¿e-z-hP-ü GŸÝP-¾ÞGÅ-hÝ-¤-ŸÛG-Ç+zÅ-¼ï-M-Ç+h-±ÛG-zÆïÅ-bï-zÁh-‚ãP-zü mP-hôm-¾-hï-®¤-qºÛ-»Ûh-ºWôG-‚ïh-Mã-¤-‚ãP-z¼-DôP-GÛ-¤±m-hP-ü ÇSôm-¤-M-GŸÝP-GÛ-¾Å-‚ïh-q-ŸÛG-»Ûm-m¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛ-hGôÅ-zŤ-¤Þ¼-G»Å-ˆÛ-ŸÛP-DºÛ-¸Þ¼-mÅ-M-¾Å-EãP-qô-z-¼Ûm-Vïm-z=-ÁÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-ym-ºzôh-hïü M¾-uÛ-hP.ü M¾-mP.ü ¼P-GÛ-Nå¼-z;ôh-zTÅ-ˆÛ-fh-zŤ-±ß¾-TÛ-»ôh-iÛÅ-q¼ü ym-HÛÅ-M¾-uÛºÛ-fôG-È-TP-n¤-q-z¸P-qô-»ôh-q-hqï¼-mü ¶Û-hï-m¤-HÛ-h¤G-ºFâG-fôG-mÅ-z®m-M¾-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-q-¤f¼-Côh-±ß¾-hP.ü M¾-mP-hÝ-¾ïm-qºô-hP.ü Fm-Çtô-b-GZÛÅ-¤Gô-¤WâG-ÇÀôG-q¼-»P-»Ûh-VïÅ-»ôhü Mã-¤±m-hï¼-zdïm-ym-HÛÅ-ÇSôm-hÝ-zôh-¼P-hzP-¼P-z®m-»Ûm-zXôh-q-hP.ü GÅP-zºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-z¸ôÅ-q-zTÅ-ˆP-mô¼-ºFâ¾-»Ûm-q-imü

Page 215: 14 mount-everest-dingri

193

=ºô-»Û -X ïÅ-ÅÞ -¤ºô -ÁÛ -zü 193

zŤ-±ß¾-GŸm-GTÛG-mÛ-»¼-ºƒôG-D-ºz¼-zÅôh-m¤Å-hzP-ºhÝÅ-hP-P-GZÛÅ-Vz-ÆÛh-fh-ºƒï¾-z-Gbm-mÅ-¤ïh-ˆP-ü Eïh-±ôÅ-ºƒï¾-z-»ôh-qºÛ-»-¾-ljôm-º²âGÅ-z®m-qôÅ-Vß¼-¤VôPÅ-mÅ-¿UïzÅ-q¼-„Àô-w¤-ÁÛm-bà-Vïü ‚ïh-±ß¾-ºhÛ-mÛ-¤ºô-»Û-hïz-w¼-ŸôG Zï-hÝÅ-Áôh-zŸÛm-qºÛ-VôG-q-GTÛG-hP.ü ¤Û-VôG-q-zŸÛºÛ-hôm-Gmh-hP-¯-ºG¾-¼ïhü TïÅ-zXôh-q¼ü M-¾Å-¼Ûm-Vïm-z=-ÁÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-zÅôh-m¤Å-hzP-ºhÝÅ-Dô-¼P-¾ôG-uôh-qºÛ-zŤ-±ß¾-HÛÅ-Vß¼-¤VôPÅ-q-¾Åü P-±ôºÛ-ÇÀôz-GÅôÅ-¤-ºhP-q-¤Ûmü ŸïÅ-iÛ-z-¤±¤Å-zThü

hï-XïÅ-ym-±ô-ÁÛP-hݤ-GTôh-q¼-ºIô-Ç+zÅ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-ym-HÛ-¤²âz-¤ô-ÁÛP-GZÛÅ-z¼-z®Û¼-mÅ-¼ÞÅ-q-zTGÅ-q-Çtô-zô-v-¤ô-μôP-hÝ-zbP-zühï¼-Çtô-Çeôh-zÅôh-m¤Å-±ï-hzP-@P-q-©Å-bï-Ǩm-DP-hï¼-zB¾-ºhÝG-q| ym-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-DôP-»P-¸Þ¼-hÝ-z;¼-mÅ-P-GZÛÅ-ºƒï¾-z-TÛ-»ôh-ZÛm-¤P-qô-iÛ-z-zbP-Ç+ô¼-zÁhü

¾ô-XïÅ-¤-»P-GÝÅ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-¾Å-;-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-z¸ÞP-Ço¼-¾Å-¤Û-Gô-ºWô-zºÛ-„À-¤-n¤-ÆÅ-hP-„À-¤-GŸm-GTÛG-¤W¾-Mã-¤ïh-qü PÅ-fï¼-Gï-GbôP-¤Dm-ŸÛG-¾-DôP-GZÛÅ-GP-hÝ-»ôh-¤ïh-iÛÅ-qÅü DôP-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-¤-aÛ-ÅôGÅ-D-ºhôm-GmP-z-¤-¸hü GŸm-¾ºP-Ç+ݾ-¤-‚Å-q-hP-ü ¾Å-;¼-G»ô¾-¸ô¾-‚Å-q-zTÅ-ˆÛ-mG-ZïÅ-G»ôGÅ-mÅ-¿+ôG-GÅôh-

Page 216: 14 mount-everest-dingri

194

194 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zbP-Ç+ô¼-zÁh-‚ãP-ü uÛ-¾ô- 1976 ¹- 4 q¼-zôh-¿YôPÅ-ZÛm-¼ïºÛ-±GÅ-q¼-¾Å-ÁïÅ-Gžü M-mG-hP-M-mG-GÛÅ-z®m-ºôG-»ôh-qºÛ-zôh-ÅôGÅ-¾-ºHã¼-z-ŸÛG-ºIô-zºÛ-¼ï-z-MÅ-q-Çeïü M-GŸÝP-GÛ-ÆÛh-„Àôm-=âºÞ-Íïm-¾m-ÁÛ-z-hP-ü ÆÛh-„Àôm-GŸôm-q-bÛP-Ÿºô-wÛP-mÅ-‚P-xôGÅ-ŸÛP-¾Å-±ôGÅ-ºhݺÛ-Ç+zÅ-zdm-¿ËÛP-¤fÞm-OÛ¾-¤Pôm-hÝ-ºHã¼-hGôÅ-qºÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-zbôm-±ß¾ü »P-hï-XïÅ-¤Û-¼ÛP-z¼-ÆÛh-WâÅ-hï¼-¿~P-ÈàP-ºÞmü»ºô-ºÞ-»mü =P-Fâm-Vºôü TP-VÛm-zTÅ-¤Û-zŸÛÅ-G®ôÅ-D-Gbh-ÁôG-DG-GÛÅ-bP-mP-GÛ-„Àô-¤fÞm-ºGº-ÁÅ-ˆÛÅ-¼P-GÛ-¾¤-xôGÅ-¾-Nå¼-zTôÅ-GbôP-GÛ-»ôhü

Mã-¤±m-mÛü ¤ºôºÛ-z;º-ÇÀôz-ˆÛ-@P-I¾-¼Û¤-ºfz-¯ôh-w¼-zŸG-Çeïü ±z-bà-zdm-¿ËÛP-¤fÞm-OÛ¾-ŸïÅ-zÁh-ˆÛ-»ôh-TïÅ-Bôm-zXôh-È-TP-ÁÝGÅ-Vïm-‚Å-q-hP-ü ¹-z-hï¼-=ºÞ-Íï-¾ïm-Vïh-¥-Pm-HÛ-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-ŸÛG-±ßGÅ-Ç+zÅ-Gm¤-Çkï-ÇKô¼-¤ôºÛ-fP-Vïm-hÝ-GÝP-Fm-bP-¾-Bôm-zXôh-ˆÛ-¢¼-»ÛG-hP.ü »ÛG-Vïm-±GÅ-q¼ü ljm-PG-GÛ-zXôh-±ÛG-zTÅ-¤P-qô-fôm-ŸÛP-ü ¤Û-¤P-GÛÅ-¾G-q-zOïPÅ-mÅ-zdm-¿ËÛP-¤fÞm-OÛ¾-HÛ-ÆÛh-‚ãÅ-mÛ-bP-GÛ-¾¤-xôGÅ-¾-ºHã¼-z-zbP-z-¤-»Ûm-q¼ü¤Û-¤P-mP-DÞ¾-¤fÞm-OÛ¾-h¤-¸z-hP.ü ÇeôzÅ-ÁÝGÅ-M-Bïhü ±GÅ-

Page 217: 14 mount-everest-dingri

195

=ºô-»Û -X ïÅ-ÅÞ -¤ºô -ÁÛ -zü 195

±ßh-hÝ-GbôP-Mã-zTÅ-ˆÛ-Vïh-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-Fô¤-Ç+ô¼-‚ïh-ˆÛm-ºzôh-±ÛG-zOGÅ-q¼ü hïºÛ-fôG-GôP-GÛ-¤Û-zŸÛºÛ-ÁôG-DG-GÛÅ-Mãh-Ç+ݾ-bï-wm-±ßm-GÅôh-¼ïÅ-hP.ü ½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-¤ï¼-zÆïGÅ-q-ÅôGÅ-iG-Lô¾-ÁÝGÅ-Vï-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-=âºÞ-ŸÛ-GŸôm-q-¿~P-ÈàP-ºÞm-mÅ-qï-TÛP-Zïm-dôG-ÉÛ-=P-¾-z;º-zbP-z-zMãhü iG-Gmôm-‚Å-bï-ºfz-¯ôh-¤ïh-q-z¸ôÅ-ÁÛP-übÛP-Ÿºô-wÛP-¼ÛG-Gż-Ç+zÅ-mô¼-ºFâ¾-»ôh-q-¤-¸hü h-¿eºÛ-Hïm-¾ôG-qºÛ-º‚ãP-¯-»Ûmü hÝG-¯-Gbô¼-¤-fÞz-q¼-zdïm-hÝG-¯-ÇÀ¼-MÅ-»ôP-z-¼ïhü TïÅ-bÛP-Ÿºô-wÛP-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-GÛÅ-bP-mP-ÇÀôz-GÅô-zMz-TÛP-ü bÛP-Ÿô-wÛP-¾-¾ïºÞ-ɺô-VÛ-hP-Ço-DÞG-GTÛG-mP-hzÞGÅ-zbP-ühô¼-¤-GTÛG-mP-@P-q-MãÅ-¤Dm-»Ûm-q-¤-¸hü ¤ºôºÛ-hGôPÅ-qºÛ-G®ô-zô-I¾-¼Û¤-ºfz-¯ôh-hô¼-±ß¾-zTÅ-ˆÛÅ-hGG-q-MG-hGôÅ-qºÛ-¾Å-ºGݾ-M¾-»ôPÅ-mP-Çtï¾ü ¾ô-hïºÛ-uÛ-¹- 9 qºÛ-ZÛm-ŸÛG-P-±ô-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-zÇ+ôPÅ-mÅ-ZÛm-ÁÅ-ÇSôm-¤ºô-®ï-bàP-ÁÛ-zÅ-M¾-»ôPÅ-¤Û-¤P-±P-¤Å-ZÛm-zhÝm-¼ÛP-¥-Pm-Vïh-GŸÅ-hP-ü ¯ïh-¤ôü Gh-¤ô-hGôh-q-ÅôGÅ-¯-z-mÅ-‚Å-¤Û-VôG-q-hP-ü ½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-»P-Ç+¼-¤-zTô-¿SºÛ-¼ÛP-ºIô-¤±¤Å-zŸG-Ç+ô¼-zÁhü Ç+zÅ-hï¼-m¤-Mãm-mÅ-Lôh-qºÛ-¼P-zŸÛm-Tm-Ço-h;¼-¯ï-z-zÇem-q-hGï-¾ïGÅ-¾ü ½ÀzÅ-Vïm-G®ô-º²Ûm-¤ºô-ºhÅ-q¼-Gh-¤ô-

Page 218: 14 mount-everest-dingri

196

196 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zGh-q-mÛ-hI-zô-ÁÛ-z-¼ïh-lj¤-Çeï-hGº-»Û-»ôhü hïºÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-hP.üMã-¤±m-Áôh-hGôÅ-zXôh-q¼-zÇem-q-hGï-¾ïGÅ- Û̂Å-¼P-ZÛh-¾-¼P-zŸÛm-HÛÅ-º²â¤-¤hPÅ-»ôh-q-¾Åü Pm-Åï¤Å-ˆÛÅ-Gh-¤ô-Áô¼-¤ïhü G¾-bï-Eïh-±ôÅ-Áôh-qºÛ-Ç+ݾ-ÇÀôP-Pm-qºÛ-Gh-¤ô-zGh-ˆP-wm-q-TÛ-ŸÛG-»ôhüTïÅ-zÁhü

¾Å-‚ïh-zÅôh-m¤Å-wÞm-±ôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-P-±ôÅ-¥-Pm-ŸÝ-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-Áôh-zŸÛm-Gh-¤ô-zGh-q¼-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-hP-Mã-¤±m-»ôh-q-fG-Vôhü PôÅ-¾ïm-¤-‚Å-q¼-iG-qôºÛ-ºfz- ô̄h-GbôP-hGôÅ-ŸïÅü DôP-¾-lÝP-lïG-iG-bà-zbP-»P-PôÅ-¾ïm-¯-z-mÅ-¤-¤²hü

Ç+zÅ-hï¼-Gż-ºHã¼-¾Å-ÁïÅ-Gžü ¤ºô-®ï-bàP-ÁÛ-XïÅ-qï-TÛP-hÝ-M-mG-GÛ-ºGô-G®ô-ÅÞÅ-‚ïh-fôG-hzP-VºÛ-ºfz-¯ôh-nô-P¼-Tm-ŸÛG-‚ãP-Çeïü ÈÑ-Gô-wÛm-xôGÅ-GbôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-¾Å-hôm-‚ïh-q¼-P-„ÀôÅ-ºDï¾ü ŸïÅ-qºÛ-¤ºôºÛ-¾G-Çe¼-»Û-Gï-zbôm-mÅ-ÈÑ-Gô-wÛm-ºGô-G®ô¼-ºhï¤Å-fzÅ-‚ïh-q-hP.ü ¤Û-zŸÛºÛ-ÁôG-DG-GÛÅ-¤ºô-¾-G®ô-º²Ûm-HÛ-¤ÛP-®¤-¾Å-hzP-V-Çtä-®¤-¤ïh-qÅ-¤ºô-»Û-¾G-Çe¼-»Û-Gï-¸ï¼-z-μâm-z¸ô-‚Å-q-¼ïhü TïÅ-Pô-Lô¾-‚Å-qÅ-ÈÑ-Gô-wÛm-ÁôG-DG-GÛÅ-JÀô-zÞ¼-¤Û-zŸÛ-ÁôG-DG-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bïü Ç+zÅ-hï¼-±GÅ-ÁôG-fôG-bà-P-±ôºÛ-bP-¾-M¾-D-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-fôz-»ôhü hï-mÛ-FG-fÛGÅ-q-GTÛG-®¤-ºhôm-

Page 219: 14 mount-everest-dingri

197

=ºô-»Û -X ïÅ-ÅÞ -¤ºô -ÁÛ -zü 197

¤-hGôÅ-q-hP.ü ¤ï-¤hº-GTÛG-ˆP-MG-¤-hGôÅ-q¼ü ¤Û-zŸÛºÛ-ÁôG-DG-f¾-zºÛ-lݾ-hÝ-z½ÀGÅ-ÁÛP-ü P-±ôºÛ-mP-mÅ-xÛ¼-ºzÞh-‚Å-qÅ-¤Û-¤P-GÛÅ-Gh-ljÛGÅ-ÇK¤-mP-„ÀâGÅ-q-¼ïhü TïÅ-fômü

Ç+zÅ-hï¼-bP-GÛ-ºfÞÅ-¤ÛºÛ-±ôGÅ-Vïm-zÇkÝ-zÇ+ôP-‚Å-bïü VïÅ-¤fôºÛ-G®ô-º²Ûm-DG-ºhï¤Å-zÇ+ô-‚Å-q-ºhÛ-¿e¼ü ÈÑ-Gô-wÞP-hzÞÅ-h¤¼-ÁôG-±ôGÅ-qºÛ-±ôGÅ-G®ô-hP.ü M¾-ÆÛh-uÛ-Ez-DP-GÛ-ÆÛh-„Àôm-GTÛG-¿UôGÅü h¤G-ÁôG-±ôGÅ-qºÛ-±ôGÅ-G®ô-GŸôm-q-¿S-mÛü

1] »Û-Tm-»ÛP.ü2] bÛP-Ÿºô-wÛP.ü3] ¾Û-Ám-Zmü4] ¶P-bàP-Áïü5] TÛ-bÛP-DÞüiâP-Vï-GTÛG-zTÅ-PïÅ-q-¼ïhü GôP-GÛ-G®ô-º²Ûm-DG-GÛÅ-¤ºô-

»Û-ºi-hq¼-¤hÝm-hP.ü bP-GÛ-ºfÞÅ-¤ÛºÛ-±ôGÅ-hˆÛ¾-hÝ-¾G-q-Gm¤-¾-zOïPÅ-mÅ-¤-Dï-ÅÛ-hP.ü ¾ï-ZÛmü ¤ºô-»Û-hGôPÅ-q-hP-m¤-»P-¤-ºG¾-q¼-Mãm-ºEôPÅ-‚-Mã-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-h¤-zTº-zŸG uÛ-¾ô- 1975 ¾ô-¤WâG-μ-Vß-D-q-mô¼-hôm-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bï-P-±ôºÛ-Zï-ºI¤-zTßG-q-ÁïÅ-q-¾Å-hôm-GP-GÛ-Ç+ô¼-»Ûm-¤-ÁïÅü hï-XïÅ-

Page 220: 14 mount-everest-dingri

198

198 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

;ô-±-zÅôh-m¤Å-ÇeôzÅ-MÅ-»ÛG-ƒÛÅ-Ç+h-zbP-z-PÅ-mG-ZïÅ-GP-ºi-»ôh-¤Ûm-iÛÅ-qü DôP-GÛÅ-zÞ-hP-zÞ-¤ôºÛ-VP-źÛ-Ç+ô¼-zÁh-q-¾Å-GŸm-mG-ZïÅ-¤Û-ºhÝG-TïÅ-GÅÞPÅ-ˆP-ü uÛ-¾ô- 1976 ¾Å-ºGݾ-Ç+zÅ-z Þ̧P-ÇoºÛ-¼Þ-Vïm-HÛ-z®ôm-q-n¤Å-±ôGÅ-ºhݼ-zÇ+ôPÅ-bï-¤fô-¼Û¤-¤Û-¤P-FÛ¤Å-DP-GÛÅ-zÞh-¤ïh-¾-z®m-G»ï¤-hP-ü xÛ-M¾-¾-ƒôÅ-fzÅ-‚Å-qÅ-h¤¼-GÅôh-GbôP-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-FÛ¤Å-fG-zThü

±ôGÅ-ºhݼ-h-hÝP-uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-qºÛ-VGÅ-¢ô¼-‚ïh-ÇePÅ-ÇÀôz-yâG-¾-zÁh-q-mÛü uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-qºÛ-hÝG-¯-uÛ-±ôGÅ-Gż-qºÛ-¥ãG-Gݼ-„ÀâGÅ-q-ŸÛG-»Ûm-q-hP-ü h-hÝP-Dô-qÅ-ÇÀôz-yâG-zÞ-¤ôºÛ-¤±m-¤¼-¤²âz-¤ô-z®ßGÅ-mÅ-©-z¸ôÅ-»ôh-q-hP.ü uÛ-±ôGÅ-fôG-Dô-q¼-ºDôm-º²Ûm-Vïm-qô-»ôh-q¼-zdïm-¤Û-¤P-GÛÅ-¼ï-ºhÝm-zŸÛm-h¤¼-GÅôh-GbP-Mã-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-«ô-Ȥ-Vïm-qôÅ-zOGÅü

>ÀôG-q-qô-¾GÅü mô¼-hôm-HÛÅ-hôm-hPôÅ-z®m-G»ï¤-‚Å-¤Ûm-Ç+ô¼-¾-PÅ-Gž-zÁh-ŸÝ-Mã¼ü mô¼-hôm-HÛ-¾Å-;-Mãm-hÝ-ŸÛP-¼ºÛ-ÇKô-ÆâP-z-»Ûm-q-hP-ü ¾¤-hï-zMãh-mÅ-¾Å-‚ïh-qºÛ-zÞ-yâG-n¤Å-ZÛm-dG-q¼-ÇÀôz-IÔ¼-ºIô-»Û-»ôhü

GÁÛÅ-;-ºW¤-ŸÛP-PP-Mãh-¼ÛP-zºÛ-mô¼-hôm-hP-ÇÀôz-yâG-hï-n¤Å-ZÛm-mÅ-¹-z-hP-¹-z-mÅ-¾ô-zÇeàh-qºÛ-zMãh-¼Û¤-mP-wm-±ßm-È-TP-ºiÛÅ-

Page 221: 14 mount-everest-dingri

199

=ºô-»Û -X ïÅ-ÅÞ -¤ºô -ÁÛ -zü 199

GÁÛz-‚ãP-zÅü ÇÀôz-IÔºÛ-GÝP-ÅïP-hÝÅ-ÅÞ-»P-ÇÀôz-yâG-n¤Å-mô¼-hôm-HÛ-¤hÝm-hÝ-¿ËGÅ-bï-Ç+zÅ-¼ï-OæP-Zm-q-hP-ü Ç+zÅ-¼ï-Gmº-Gb¤-hP-ü zŸh-zGh-ÇÀôP-zºÛ-Gb¤-Zm-bï-¿Ëh-¤ïh-qºÛ-‚ÛÅ-q-n¤Å-mô¼-hôm-¾-ÁÛm-bà-z¯ïü Ç+zÅ-ÁÛG-mô¼-hôm-HÛÅ-Gmº-hÝÅ-zÞh-¤ïh-¾-z®m-G»ï¤-zbP-zºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-ÁÛG-zÁh-q-yâG-GݺÛ-PG-mÅ-M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-ÁïÅ-bï| ºV¼-GŸÛ-»ôh-qºÛ-PP-mÅ-M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-Vz-¤hô-z-M-¾Å-±ï-ºGG-¿Ë-¤ôºÛ-zÞ-¤ô¼-¿+ôG-Qm-vh-hïü mô¼-hôm-HÛÅ-z®m-G»ï¤-‚Å-¾ÞGÅ-zXôh-hGôÅ-zÁh-q-¿e¼-zÞ-¤ô-hïÅ-zÁh-q-hP-ü xÛ-M¾-hÝ-ƒôÅ-fzÅ-‚Å-ŸïÅ-q-»P-DÞPÅ-Çoï-Çtä-®¤-¤ïh-qºÛ-zljh-ºhôGÅ-‚Å-q-ŸÛG-¼ïhü hôm-hPôÅ-mô¼-hôm-HÛÅ-M-h¤G-hP-qô-fôm-»ôP-Ç+zÅ-h¤G-fïPÅ-¤P-zMz-q¼-zdïmü z®ôm-q¼-Ç+zÅ-fôz-ZïÅ-q-Vï-VßP-¾-¤Û-¿e-z¼-¾ô-MãÅ-ˆÛ-Mz-¿YôPÅ-¾-z¿eÅ-bïü μ-Vß-D-q-mô¼-hôm-hP-ºi-z-n¤Å-¾-JÀô-zÞ¼-zºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-¼ï¼-zljh-zbGÅ-bï-h¤¼-GÅôh-GbôP-AP-‚ïhü hï-»P-¾ô-¿e¼-Çeôm-hÝÅ-¾Å-ºGݾ-Ç+zÅ-¾Å-hôm-±GÅ-º±ßh-hP-Hïm-¾ôG-q-GZº-GTôG-Vïh-ºV¼-Tm-h¤¼-GÅôh-hP-FÛ¤Å-Vh-GbôP-GÛ-»ôhü

VôG-q-GTÛG-hP-¤-VôG-q-zŸÛ-º²¤-JÀÛP-»ôPÅ-¾-iÛ¾-zOGÅ-‚Å-mÅ-¾ô-GZÛÅ-¾Å-¤-xÛm-»P-ü ¾ÞG-¤Gô-z;¾-mÅ-EÛ-Á-±ôP-qºÛ-hqï-¿e¼-M-h¤¼-GÛÅ-¼P-ºhôh-Dô-mÅ-D-zÁh-Mz-Bå¼-HÛÅ-

Page 222: 14 mount-everest-dingri

200

200 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

mô¼-hôm-ÆôG-fôG-zbP-ü

zTô-¿Sü

zÁÝ-GŸôG-hP-ü ¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-h‚ï-º‚ïhü(1976-1978)

zôh-¼P-BôP-¿YôPÅ- Û̂-z®ôm-DP-ÍP-GZÛÅ-q-Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-DôPÅ-ˆÛ-ŸÐ-»ôh-¾Å-¤Û-n¤Å-z®ôm-FÛ¤Å-¾ô-hÝÅ-μôGÅ-ˆP-ü ¼P-GmÅ-ÅÞ-¤-ÇÀôG-q¼-Vz-ÆÛh-ˆÛ-¼P-hzP-Çtä-®¤-¤ïh-qºÛ-¤Û-±ï-ÇkÝG-¸h-GbôP-z-hP-ü xôGÅ-GTÛG-mÅ-ŸÛP-¾Å-ÅôGÅ-¾Å-;ºÛ-hGôÅ-¤Dô¼-ƒm-G»ôG-¿e-zÞ¼-z;ô¾ü

ºôm-ˆP-Ȥ-Åï¤Å-Vï-zºÛ-M-GŸÝP-¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-¤Û-Pm-Eôh-±ô-¼P-D-¼P-GÅô-¤-fÞz-q¼-zdïmü M¾-Dz-mÅ-GÅô-Z¼-‚ïh-ˆÛ-»ôh-zXôh-hï| ¹-¼ï¼-mÝÅ-q-Vï-VßP-¾-hqGÅ-bï-¾Å-¤Û-zM-V-Gô-¿S¼-¸-ºƒâºÛ-¼Ûm-q-ºyôh-®¤-HÛ-hPÞ¾-wôGÅ-ÇKô¼- 24 mÅ- 35 z¼-hP-ü ¤ÛG-hqï¼-z¸ÞP-zºÛ-zôh-M-¾Å-¤Û-¼ï-¸ÞP-¾-h¤ÛGÅ-zž-ÇKô¼- 50 ®¤-

Page 223: 14 mount-everest-dingri

201

zÁÝ-GŸôG-hP-ü ¤Û -¼ ÛGÅ-h‚ï -º‚ïhü 201

vôh-ˆÛ-»ôhü hï-¤Ûm-¾Å-¤Û¼-¾ô-mÅ-¾ô-zÇeàh-hï-P¾-¯ô¾-hP-Ÿô¼-¾Å-ˆÛ-fôm-Bïh-ÅôGÅ-Ço-±ôGÅ-z®m-zÇ+ݾ-‚Å-qºÛ-fôm-zz-WÛ-»ôh-M-GŸÝP-hP-¾Å-‚ïh-qÅ-Ȥ-¸-zÁÝ-GŸôG-‚ïh-AP-‚ïhü hqï¼-mü M-h¤G-¼Þ-hqôm-¿~P-ŸïÅ-q-Dô-¼P-fôG-¤¼-v-¾ÞP-hÝ-P-±ôºÛ-ºGô-ºFÛh-‚ïh-q¼-»ôP-hÝÅ-ÅÞü D-wô¼-hP-Z¾-VÅ-®¤-¾Å-¤ïh-ˆP-ü Dô-q-v-¾ÞP-hÝ-ºGô-ºFÛh-‚Å-bï-Çkôh-¼ÛP-¾Å-¤Û¼-Ÿô¼-¾Å-ÁÛP-ÇK¤-z¸ô-zTßG-Çeï-Dô-qºÛ-z¸º-¹-fÞG-ºyh-mÅ-¾ôG-Ç+zÅ-È-TP-¿YÛh-Vï-zºÛ-ÇK¤-DïPÅ-q-zTß-zhÝm-hP.ü OôG-¯ï-GZÛÅ-zTÅ-ym-±ô¼-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-fôG-„ÀâGÅ-zTßG-mÅ-M-mG-bà-zbP-ü ÇK¤-mP-GÛ-hPôÅ-VÅ-TÛ-»Ûm-P-±ôÅ-hPôÅ-¤fôP-¼ï-ƒ¾-»P-ü ¿YÛh-±h-hP-üfG-¼ÛP-M-mG-bà-T-hPôÅ-w¾-q-ŸÛG-ºEï¼-¤Û-ÆÛh-¾-±ôh-hqGÅ-‚Å-mü uÛ-¾ô- 1960 ¹- 7 ±ïÅ- 1 mÅ-h¤PÅ-G®ôºÛ-zTôÅ-Nå¼-HÛ-¾Å-ºGݾ-mP-º‚ô¼-¿km-¤Pº-zhG-n¤Å-ˆÛ-T-hPôÅ-n¤Å-GŸÝP-zŸïÅ-zbP-DÞ¾-M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-GP-ºhôh-¿e¼-‚Å-qºÛ-¼Ûm-fP-ƒ¾-zºÛ-T-hPôÅ-hï-¼ÛGÅ-¤Ûm-m¤-lj¤ü

hï-zŸÛm-G®P-q-Ço¤-q-M-¾Å-zÅôh-m¤Å-M¾-qô-hP.ü ¿Ë-Å-z-M-¾Å-VôÅ-Oôm-z¸º-±ô-GZÛÅü uÛ-¾ô- 1979 ¾ô¼-¿Ë-ż-GmÅ-Çtô-Ç+zÅ-T-hPôÅ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-GTÛG-‚ã¼-zÞ¼-Gb¤Å-q-¤Z¤-ºEï¼-‚Å-

Page 224: 14 mount-everest-dingri

202

202 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

q| hï-hG-»ôP-DÞPÅ-GŸm-¤ïh-q¼-P-±ô¼-zÁÝ-GŸôG-zbP-zºÛ-ºƒÅ-zÞ-Á-ÇeG-¼ïhü ¾Å-¤Û¼-JÀ-¯Û-»ôh-±ï-¾Å-‚ïh-q-hP-¿+ôG-±ôP-zMz-mÅ-JÀ-zÞG-¼ï¼-W-zG-¼ï-¾Å-vôh-ˆÛ-¤ïh-q-hP.ü hï-zŸÛm-FG-¼Ðü ²-»ÞP.üzï-«åG h‚¼-¯Ó-hGÝm-ºzÞü lô-ºzÞ¤-ÅôGÅ-¾-¼Ûm-q-Çoï-Åï¾-¾Å-¤Û-vôh-q-¤-¸hü GŸm-¾-z®ôP-m-mG-±ôP-¼ïhü TïÅ-FÛ¤Å-ºG¾-hÝ-z Û̄Å-mÅ-hôm-hÝ-GôP-GÛ-Ǩm-¼ÛGÅ-DG-M-h¤¼-mÅ-zÇkÝ-¾ïm-‚-»Û-»ôhü

zôh-ˆÛ-G»G-Á-¾ÞG-Á¼-ÇKô¼-¸Þ¼-GÅÞ¤-¾Å-¤Û-vôh-ˆP-hï-¾Å-¿kôG-Çeï-M-mG-mÅ-fôm-qºÛ-T-hPôÅ-¾-¼Ûm-GôP-È-TP-Vï-z-hqï¼-m| wG-Á-M-¤-GTÛG-¾-ÇKô¼- 1 hP-¤ôG-®ï- 2 ‚ïhü ºhÛ-»P-zôh-M¾-»ôPÅ-mP-M-¤ÛÅ-zÁÝ-GŸôG-zbP-zºÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-¤Û-ZÝP-z-»ôh-q-mÅ-V-ÁÅ-GTÛG-»Ûmü

M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-h‚ï-º‚ïh-¤ïh-q¼-±P-¤-uÛ-±ôGÅ-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ- Û̂-EÛ¤-±P-Vïm-qôºÛ-mP-GTÛG-¤±ßPÅ-hP-ü zôh-M-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-GZÛÅ-Çtäm-¹-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-iÛ¾-zOGÅ-zMãh-¾¤-DG-mÅ-Áôh-¤Dm-D-m-ŸÛP-ü Zm-¤Dm-n-TôG-¤-±-z¼-zXôh-ˆP-JÀôG-DP-hP.ü GŸÝP-¾¤ü ͼ-¾Åüz¸ô-¾Å-ÅôGÅ-h;º-P¾-hP-Zïm-D-Vï-¼ÛGÅ-¾-zôh-¤Û-z®ôm-q-hP-¾Å-¤Û-ÅôGÅ-z®m-zÇ+ݾ-‚ïh-q-hP-ü ¤-‚m-ÅôGÅ-¾Å-;-»P-¼ÛGÅ-M-¤Û¼-z;ôh-OÛG-‚ïh-q-¤-¸hü zôh-¼ÛGÅ-z®ôm-qºÛ-ºGô-‚ïh-¾-M-¤Û-z®ôm-

Page 225: 14 mount-everest-dingri

203

zÁÝ-GŸôG-hP-ü ¤Û -¼ÛGÅ-h‚ï -º‚ïhü 203

q-zÇ+ôÅ-q-hP-ü hï-zŸÛm-M-¤Û-z®ôm-qÅ-@Ý-ºyôG-hP.ü ºFâG-¯ôh-ÅôGÅ-z®ôm-FÛ¤Å-¾Å-ºG¾-zºÛ-‚-z-TÛ-‚Å-ˆP-¯h-GTôh-¤fÛ¾-xÛm-¤ïh-q¼-¤²ïÅ-¸ô¾-HÛÅ-M-¤Û-mP-DÞ¾-¤fÞm-OÛ¾-»ôP-fzÅ-G®ô-zô¼-‚ïhü

¤ºôºÛ-hïz-hP-±GÅ-ÁôG-fôG-GP-Oæz-hï-¾ïm-ŸïÅ-¼P-GÛÅ-¾Å-TÛ-®¤-zOæzÅ-ˆP-ºƒÅ-zÞ-hï-¾ïmü ŸïÅ-zÁh-ˆP-P-±ô-zôh-¤Û-n¤Å-¾Å-;-xôh-Vï-ŸÛP-GP-¾-»P-z ô̧h-fÞz-q-zTÅ-ºWôm-fP-Vï-»P-M-¤Û¼-JÀ-¤fô-z-hP-ü zôh-q¼-JÀ-VßP-z-vôhü P-±ôÅ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-GÛ-ż-hï-hG-¾-Bôm-zXôh-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-Dô-q-±ôÅ-Eôh-±ôô-mÛ-hI-hP-¼P-xôGÅ-z¼-HÛ-ºG¾-z-hP-Dô-±ô-mÛ-¤Û-¤P-mP-DÞ¾-HÛ-ºG¾-z-»Ûm-qÅ-¯-hôm-fôG-Eïh-±ô-hP-Dô-±ô-ºi-»Û-¤-¼ïh-TïÅ-zXôhü

hï-zŸÛm-zôh-ˆÛ-ÇÀôz-IÔ¼-»P-¤Û-¤P-GÛ-mP-mÅ-»Û-Gï-ºƒÛ->ÀôG-fÞz-®¤-ŸÛG-»ôh-m-hGï-Lm-¾-ºWôG-q-hP-ü M-¤ÛºÛ-ÇÀôz-IÔ¼-qï-TÛm-¤fô-ÇÀôz-ÅôGÅ-fôm-qºÛ-ÁïÅ-±h-PïÅ-q-Tm-hGï-Lm-¾-zÇ+ô-GŸG-‚ïh-qÅ-zôh-MºÛ-ÇÀôz-yâG-GÛ-z¼ü ÁïÅ-»ôm-Vß-±h-ˆÛ-Eh-z¼-Vïm-qô-Áô¼-z-ǨôÅ-¤-hGôÅü h-hÝP-¾Å-DÞPÅ-DG-GÛ-zôh-M-¾Å-‚ïh-GZÛÅ-mÅ-ÁïÅ-±h-hP-Z¤Å-¥ôP-¤Û-¿e-z¼-»Ûm-GTÛG-zôh-¤Û-ŸÛG-GÛ-¤Gô-zô¼-M-¤Û-¼ï-ºWôG

uÛ-¾ô- 1976 ®¤-¾-P-±ôºÛ-¾Å-¤Û-Ǩ¼-D¤Å-q-hGï-ºhÝm-VôÅ-ºwï¾-mh-¤m¼-‚ãP-Çeïü Ǩm-qÅ-zdG-hrh-‚Å-q-zMãh-¸ÞPÅ-

Page 226: 14 mount-everest-dingri

204

204 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

FG-‚ãP-±ï-iG-Bïh-»ôP-Mã-DÅ-„ÀPÅ-ˆP-ü P-±ôºÛ-¸ÞPÅ-FG-vh-¤Û-VôG-TïÅ-z;G-qÅ-¤f¼-ºhÅ-IôPÅ-Hã¼ü M-¼ÛGÅ-mh-¤m¼-z¼-FG-hGôÅ-±ï-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-¾-FG-Ç+¼-¤-zM-¾-¼Ûm-ÇKô¼- 20z¸ôÅ-ˆP-ü FG-¼Ûm-TßP-¸h-¤ïh-q¼-zôh-q-¾Å-¤Û-ŸÛG-mÅ-FG-z®GÅ-AP-‚ïhü Ǩm-DP-hÝ-zôh-¼ÛGÅ-¾ô-Lm-mh-¤m¼-HÛÅ-Ǩm-zÇeïm-hÝ-º‚ô¼-z-n¤Å-¾-Ǩm-hP.ü Ǩm-zTôÅ-GP-»P-¤Û-‚ïh-q¼-ÁÛ-¼Þ-ºWâG-q-hqï¼-mü ƒG-G»z-IÔ-ÍÛ-ÅÛ-¾ô-LÅ-ÁÛP-mh-ˆÛÅ-¤m¼-z-v-¤ô-Ǩm-DP-hÝ-zB¾-»P-ü ¸Å-ym-zÞ-¼ï-vôh-q-¾Å-»-¤-‚Å-q¼-ZÛm-ÁÅ-mÅ-IôPÅü zôh-¼ÛGÅ-¾ô-VßP-z-n¤Å-¾-Ǩm-zTôÅ-‚ïh-DÞ¾-»P-zôh-M-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-z¼-h‚ï-º‚ïh-ÁÛm-bà-Vïü Ǩm-q-Gż-qÅ-GÁG-zTôÅ-ˆÛ-¾G-¯¾-¢ôP-Vïh-zôh-¼ÛGÅ-mh-q-zïh-uh-Aïmü zôh-¼ÛGÅ-¤P-qô-hÝÅ-¤Ûm-ºVÛ-Aïm-hÝ-Hã¼-»ôhühqï¼-mü uÛ-¾ô- 1967 ¾ô¼-hï-ÇSôm-T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-Ǩm-Dz-Çeôh-q-PG-hzP-±ï-¼ÛP-v-¤ô-Ǩm-DP-hÝ-¾G-¯¾-¢ôP-Vïh-GÁG-zTôÅ-‚Å-mÅ-ZÛm-GZÛÅ-XïÅ-IôPÅü hï-hÝÅ-Dô-¼P-¾ô-Zï¼-GÅÞ¤-®¤-»Ûmü GôP-Gž-ºhÛ-n¤Å-¤ïÅ-M¾-EÛ¤-±P-Vïm-qôºÛ-mP-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-±P-¤-GTÛG-Hã¼-»Ûm-¤Ûm-Gž-qô¼-dôGÅ-fÞzü uÛ-¾ô- 1978 ¾ôºÛ-hrÛh-;¼-zm-¾ôG-væ¾-Ç+Ý-‚¤Å-q-¤DÅ-

Page 227: 14 mount-everest-dingri

205

zÁÝ-GŸôG-hP-ü ¤Û -¼ÛGÅ-h‚ï -º‚ïhü 205

Iâz-v-¾ÞP-mP-GÅïÅ-GÅÞ¤-q-mÅ-z Þ̧P-Ço¼-zbP-Çeï-ym-hP-¤Z¤-ŸÛP-¾Å-‚ïh-q¼-wïzÅü PÅ-DôP-¾-ºhÛ¼-wïzÅ-hGôÅ-q-ZïÅ-q-TÛ-ŸÛG-zÅGÅ-Ťü ŸïÅ-z;º-iÛ-ŸÝÅ-q¼-DôP-GÛÅ-ˆ¾-;-hP-£GÅ-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-ºhÛºÛ-ºôG-¾-ZïÅ-q-¤-zÅGÅ-q¼-ZïÅ-Tm-q¼-ºHã¼-z-¾Å-ÇÀü ŸïÅ-hP-ü»P-hs¾-qºÛ-GZï¼-¤-zÇkÝÅ-bï-TßP-hô-mm-HÛÅ-M-GŸÝP-Dô-qÅ-z ô̧Å-qºÛ-FÛ¤Å-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-ºIô-G¸z-Çkôh-¤DÅ-‚Å-ˆP-ü P-±ôºÛ-ZïÅ-q-±P-¤-‚ã¼-lô-Gm¤-zz-hP-ºiü h-z¼-hï-¼ÛP-ZïÅ-q-ŸÛG-¤-ºwôG-ˆP-ÅP-ZÛm-TÛ-‚Å-»ôP-P¤-lj¤-mÅ-hôGÅ-¸ôm-‚Å-Çeï-Çkôh-¤Þ¼ü uÛ-¾ô-1977 ¾ô¼-PºÛ-w-mh-ˆÛÅ-¤m¼-z¼-zdïm-EãP-qô-ÇeïP-Vïm-hÝ-ºDô¼-ŸG-¾-hGôPÅ-ºFô¾-zŸÛm-zBôhü

w-zÞºÛ-h¤-±ÛG-G®P-zÅ-w-IôPÅ-D¼-fÞG-®¤-‚ãP-ŸÛP-ü ¼P-ZÛh-mÅ-ºhÅ-¤Vôh-n¤-h;¼-hGï-¢ô¼-n¤Å-Oæz-Ç+zÅ-hï-DÞ¾-¤Û-¤P-n¤Å- Û̂Å-Ÿ¾-ºhïzÅ-vh-q-xÛ¼-ÇÀôG-Çeïü PÅ-ºhÛ-¿e¼-Z¼-m-zÁÝ-GŸôG-GÛ-¤ÛP-GhGÅ-bï-¤m¼-GTôh-ºwôG-GÛ-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-ˆP.ü ¤Û-¤P-mÅ-P-±ôÅ-hP-zÅ-;Ým-mÅ-zÇÀPÅ-bï-wÞ¾-z¼-¤m¼-GTôh-»ôP-hôm-¤ïhü TïÅ-mm-HÛÅ-zÁh-qü PºÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-»P-VôÅ-hh-¼P-¤ôÅ-ˆÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-¾G-Çe¼-‚-MãºÛ-Ez-zOGÅ-‚Å-hP-‚ïh-¤ÞÅ-»Ûm-qÅ-Bôm-Vï-z-¤ïh-¾Å-Vï-lj¤-Çeïü ¤f¼-Ÿ¾-ºhïzÅ-ºƒï¾-z-Çoï-Åï¾-¼ï-zŸG

Page 228: 14 mount-everest-dingri

206

206 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

h-hÝP-¤Û-¤P-n¤Å-̂ ÛÅ-qÞÅ-z®ßGÅ-f¾-¢¼-HÛÅ-PÞ-PG-hP-zTÅ-hïP-hÝÅ-=âP-h‚P-GÛÅ-Gż-ºHã¼-fôG-VôÅ-hh-¼P-hzP-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-Áôh-ˆÛm-ºhÝG-qü P-±ô¼-VôÅ-ˆÛ-O-®¤-fôÅ-Mã-¤ïh-q¼-»Þm-¼ÛP-ºhÅ-qÅüz;º-hzP-ŸÛG-BzÅ-ºWâG-»ôP-z-ŸïÅ-ÍÞ-mm-Vï¼-zXôh-ÇezÅ-Pô-¤-¿kôG-q-hP-ü ¤Û-¤P-¼P-fôG-mÅ-VôÅ-¾-ºhÛ-¿e-zÞºÛ-hh-ºhÝm-»ôh-q-¤fôP-hÝÅ-hGº-ÇoP-hP-„Àô-ÇeôzÅ-Bïh-mÅ-hzP-ŸÛG-ˆP-zÇ+ݼü ºDô¼-ŸG-GÛ-hÝÅ-μôGÅ-mÅ-v-©ôG-bà-¾ôG-Çeï-»Þm-¼ÛP-¤-ÅôP-z¼-P-M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bïü w-»Þ¾-hÝ-‚-Pm-TÛ-‚Å-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-q-zŸÛm-hôm-Ço-GTÛG-¾-Èï-zG-¤ïh-q¼-PôÅ-¾ïm-‚Å-ˆP-ü M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-»Û-Gï-ŸÛG-zbôm-bï-ºhÛ-¿e¼ü(¼ÛG-Gż-Ç+zÅ-ÅÞ-GbôP-»ÛG-ÅôGÅ-»Û-Gï-TÛ-ºi-ŸÛG-ƒÛ-hÝÅ-ºGô¼-GÁ¤-¿e¼-z;ôh-hGôÅü)

¤ºô-=âºÞ-ŸÛºÛ-GÅÞP-zbàÅüzôh-¼P-BôP-¿YôPÅ-z®ôm-DP-ÍP-GZÛÅ-qºÛ-Vz-ÆÛh-hô-h¤-„Àô-

¤fÞm-¤VôG-¾üEïh-±ô-z®ôm-DP-ÍP-GZÛÅ-qÅ-zm-¾ôG-væ¾-Ç+Ý-‚¤Å-q-¤DÅ-

Iâz-¾-h-z¼-Nå¼-z;ôh-»G-qô-¤-zbP-zÅü ¾ÞP-q¼-VôÅ-Çtï¾-bï-uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-q-¼ô-¾PÅ-zMG-¯ÛÅ-hP-ü ¤Û-h¤PÅ-¾-hq¾-º‚ô¼-HÛ-zÁÝ-GŸôG-zbP-Çeï-Mã-hPôÅ-¤P-qô-z¸Å-qÅü ÇÀh-xÛm-Nå¼-z;ôh-¾ïGÅ-

Page 229: 14 mount-everest-dingri

207

zÁÝ-GŸôG-hP-ü ¤Û -¼ÛGÅ-h‚ï -º‚ïhü 207

qô-GbôP-zºÛ-¼ï-z-ŸÝ-»Û-»Ûmü EãP-qô-ÇeïP-Vïm-ÁP-¤Û-h¤PÅ-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-GÛÅüuÛ-¾ô- 1977 ¹- 12 ±ïÅ- ¾ü

ŸïÅ->ÀôG-TÛP-h-hÝP-hï¼-PôÅ-¾ïm-hGôÅ-qºÛ-ÇkÝG-Ço-LÝ-zbP-ŸÛP-ü¤f¼-¾ôºÛ-¤WâG-zÇkô¤Å-¾-¾ô-¤P-Nå¼-z;ôh-zbP-»P-¤-fÞz-qºÛ-‚¤Å-q-¤DÅ-Iâz-Dô-qºÛ-w-ºVÛ-D¼-fÞG-q¼-hGôPÅ-ŸÝ-¿e¼ü GôP-¼Û¤-mÅ-fÞGÅ-DÞ¼-Vï¼-zŸïÅ-bï-hGôPÅ-q-GmP-ü ºôm-ˆP-Dô-qÅ-¾ÞP-qºÛ-¤Û-¤P-¾-VôÅ-zÁh-hï-uÛ-±ôGÅ-½‰ÛP-q-¼ô-¾PÅ-zMG-fzÅ-hP-ü hq¾-º‚ô¼-fôG-mÅ-zÁÝ-GŸôG-zbP-»ôh-qÅ-¤ºô-»Û-hGôPÅ-q-hP-Mz-ºG¾-¤-¸hü ¤Û-¤P-GÛ-ºhôh-q-hP-»P-¤fÞm-HÛ-¤ïhü TïÅ-«ô-Ȥ-Vïm-qôÅ-fG-qÅ-zÇk¤Å-ÁÛP-¾ô-ZÛ-ÁÝ-FÛ¤Å-Vh-z®ôm-ºWâG-zbP-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-GÅÞPÅü

Ç+zÅ-hï¼-VôÅ-hh-¼P-¤ôÅ-»Ûm-q-¯-FÛ¤Å-mP-Gbm-¾-wz-q-hP.ü Gż-ºHã¼-zMãh-¾¤-DG-bà-»P-»P-Ez-zOGÅ-‚Å-ˆP-D-mÅ-zÁh-q-hP-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¾G-Çe¼-GZÛÅ-xôGÅ-ºG¾-‚ïh-q-GmÅ-±ß¾-hï-¼ÛGÅ-»Ûmü

Page 230: 14 mount-everest-dingri

208

208 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zTß-iâG

ÆÛh-WâÅ-z¸P-hÝ-zbP-»P-ü z®m-M¾-HÛ-Pô-zô-¼P-Åô¼-GmÅü

(1978-1979)

uÛ-¾ô- 1978 ¾ô¼-zôh-¿YôPÅ-ZÛm-¼ïºÛ-±GÅ-ÁôG-fôG-fôm-Gžü ºG¾-Aïm-¤fº-hG-¤fÞm-Aïm-hÝ-zNå¼-hGôÅ-q-hP.ü ÇS¼-I¾-¼Û¤-ºfz-¯ôh-Çtï¾-z-¾-zdïm-mÅ-fï-¶m-¤ïÅ-M¾-hP-D-ƒ¾-hÝ-xÛm-q-hP-ü bØ-¾ºÛ-¼Þ-±ôGÅ-xÛ-M¾-hÝ-»Þ¾-H¼-¾-xÛm-q-¼ïhü DôP-±ô-¤ïÅ-M¾-EÛ¤-±P-Vïm-qôºÛ-mP-xÛ¼-¾ôG-»ôP-Vïh-I¾-¼Û¤-ºfz- ô̄h-¤ïh-q-z ô̧-zºÛ-ÆÛh-‚ãÅ-¾G-¾ïm-zÇe¼-hGôÅü

I¾-¼Û¤-ºfz-¯ôh-¤ïh-q¼-z¸ôÅ-ŸïÅ-q-mÛü ¯-z-mÅ-z¸ôÅ-

Page 231: 14 mount-everest-dingri

209

ÆÛh-WâÅ-z¸P-hÝ-zbP-»P-ü z®m-M¾-HÛ-Pô-zô-¼P-Åô¼-GmÅü 209

q-¤-»Ûm-q¼-P-±ôÅ-D-z;z-mÅ-zŸG-»ôhü TïÅ-hP-ü ¼ÛG-GmÅ-Gż-zXïºÛ-Ç+zÅ-¾ÛºÞ-ɺô-VÛ-¾-Gmôh-Bôm-zbP-z-mô¼-ºFâ¾-È-TP-Vïm-qô-»Ûm-q-hP.ü DôP-GÛ-hGôPÅ-q-»P-hG-»Ûm-qÅü hïºÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-¾G-Çe¼-hP.ü ¤±m-GmÅ-ÇÀ¼-GÅô-‚ïh-hGôÅü

Ç+zÅ-hï¼-mô¼-ºFâ¾-HÛ-z®ôm-zTßG-‚Å-q-n¤Å-GÝ-»PÅ-fôG-¤±m-GmÅ-ÇÀ¼-GÅôü z®ôm-hÝ-Çkôh-¼ÛP-JÀ-wôGÅ-D-GÅz-‚ïh-hGôÅ-q-zTÅ-ˆÛ-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-»ÛG-V-¼ï-¼ï-zŸÛm-Gž-z-¤-¸hü uÛ-¾ô-1976 ¹- 9 ¤ºô-ºhÅ-XïÅ-ˆÛ-fïm-Ím-¤Ûm-fP-Vïm-HÛ-¸ÛP-ºFâG-TïÅ-q-hï-mÛ-¸ÛP-ºFâG-¤Ûm-q¼ü Gż-zXïºÛ-‚-GŸG-ÍP-hP-qô-lô-¼ÛP-z®ßGÅ-q-¿e-zÞ-ŸÛG-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-Eôm-»ôPÅ-ˆÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-¾-ºHã¼-z-ºIô-ºGô-ŸÛG-±ßGÅü

ym-»P-z®ôm-ºWâG-¾ô-¿SºÛ-hÝÅ-»Þm-μôGÅ-bï-JÀôh-ºIô¾-fôz-mÅ-z¸ÞP-ÇoºÛ-¾Å-¤ÛºÛ-DôPÅ-zŸG-TÛP-ü ¼ïÅ-G¸º-ZÛ-¤-ŸÛG-hï-ÇSôm-HÛ-¾Å-¼ôGÅ-;ôP-qô-ºW¤-hq¾-v-¾ÞP-mÅ-z¸ÞP-Ço¼-ym-fÞG-q¼-ÇÀïzÅ-‚ãP-zü DôP-GÛÅ-Eïh-¼P-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-q-P-±ôºÛ-±ôGÅ-VßP-mP-fôÅ-ºy¾-±ôGÅ-¤Û-n¤Å-Åï¤Å-ÇkÝG-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-z-hP-ü ¿ËG-q¼-Gô-ºWô-z-h;ôm-¤VôG-zÇem-º²Ûm-HÛÅü Í-Dü Í-wô-PG-hzP-hïºÛ-mP-»ôh-q-ÁïÅ-¤-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-PG-mÅ-hzP-¤ïh-f¾ü h;ôm-¤VôG-zÇem-º²Ûm-HÛÅ-

Page 232: 14 mount-everest-dingri

210

210 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ-M-GŸÝP-¾-¯ÛÅ-vh-mÅ-z¸ÞP-¤Û-¤P-qô-ŸÛG-fG-Ÿô¼-ƒïP-iâh-‚Å-»ôh-qÅü ¾Å-¤Û-¤P-qôºÛ-Åï¤Å-mP-m-±-z¸ôÅ-»ôh-Aïm-Çkï-hGï-z-LÅ-qô-ÍÞ-Mm-¿ËG-zŤ-HÛÅ-h;ôm-¤VôG-zÇem-º²Ûm-¾-hI-¾m-ÇÀôG-Vïhü ¼Þ-hqôm-hzP-ºhÝÅ-ˆÛ-¤hÝm-xÛm-mÅ-h;ôm-¤VôG-zÇem-º²Ûm-HÛÅ-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ-xÛ-±ß¾-¯ÛÅ-vôh-q-®¤-¾Å-¾ôG-uôh-qºÛ-ºGô-G®ô-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-hP-ü Ço-DÞG-GTÛG-mP-hzÞGÅ-GbôP-¤Dm-hP-ü hô¼-¤-GTÛG-mP-@P-q-MãÅ-¤Dm-GTÛG-»Ûm-qºÛ-hqP-dGÅ-ÅÞ-Dô-qÅ-¤Û-¤P-hzÞÅ-hï-¿e¼-zÁh-±ß¾-ljm-GÅïP-ŸÝÅ-qÅü h;ôm-¤VôG-zÇem-º²Ûm-¾-zÅôh-m¤Å-mô¼-zÞ- Û̄Å-vh-qºÛ-‚Å-XïÅ-G ï̧PÅ-zÇeôh-ºôP-Mã-¤ïh-q¼ü ¾Å-¤Û-GŸm-¾-JÀ-V-Çt¼-»P-Dô-q¼-JÀ-V-¤-Çt¼-zºÛ-ZïÅ-Vh-zbP-±ß¾-zÁhü

uÛ-¾ô- 1978 ¾ô¼-M¾-»ôPÅ-mP-bP-»ôm-¤Û-IPÅ-FÛ-ZÛÅ-ÇeôP-zMh-zM-»ôh-qºÛ-ºfÞÅ-¤ÛºÛ-±ôGÅ-Vïm-Ç+zÅ-zTß-GTÛG-q-º±ôGÅ-ÁÛP-ü hïºÛ-Ç+zÅ-hzÞÅ-h¤¼-ÁôG-±ôGÅ-qºÛ-±ôGÅ-G®ô-GTÛG-hP.ü ±ôGÅ-G®ô-GŸôm-q-¿Sü iâP-Vï-GTÛG Mãm-¾Å-ÍÞ-»ôm-zM-hP-zMh-zTÅ-ºhï¤Å-zÇ+ô-‚Åü DôP-±ôÅ-ÇS¼-uÛ-¾ô- 1949 ¾ô¼-M¾-Å-qï-TÛP-hP-ü M¾-h¼-Ç+¼-¿SºÛ-h¼-h¤¼-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-‚Å-q-¼P-Åô¼-zŸG-q-hP-ü M¾-Dz-ˆÛ-Pô-zô-mÛü ŸÛP-qºÛ-I¾-¼Û¤-HÛ-©P-GŸÛ-hP-z¸ô-zºÛ-

Page 233: 14 mount-everest-dingri

211

ÆÛh-WâÅ-z¸P-hÝ-zbP-»P-ü z®m-M¾-HÛ-Pô-zô-¼P-Åô¼-GmÅü 211

I¾-¼Û¤-HÛÅ-Çoï-FÛh-qºÛ-z¸ô-ŸÛP-¤Z¤-ºƒï¾-M¾-Dz-hP-ühP-qôü M¾-»ôPÅ-¤ÛP-¤P-ºfÞÅ-¤Û-±ôGÅ-VïmüGZÛÅ-qü bP-GÛ-ºfÞÅ-¤Û-±ôGÅ-VïmüGÅÞ¤-qü M¾-ÆÛh-uÛ-Ez-DP-zTÅ-¾Å-DÞPÅ-Í-¤-GÅÞ¤-

¾-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-‚Å-q-hP-ü bP-GÛ-ºfÞÅ-¤ÛºÛ-±ôGÅ-Vïm-HÛ-fôG-mÅ-=âP-h‚P-GÛ-»ÛG-V-ÍP- 13 ŸïÅ-qºÛ-IôÅ-GŸÛ¼-IôÅ-ºV¤-‚ãP-ü»ÛG-V-ÍP- 13 q¼-hïP-¼zÅ-Tm-zŸÛ-ÇSôm-hÝ-ºHã¼-MãºÛ-mP-hôm-G®ô-Gmh-hÝ-zŸG-»ôhü

hïP-¼zÅ-Tm-zŸÛ-mÛü1) ŸÛP-¾Å-hïP-¼zÅ-Tmü2) ±m-¼ÛG-hP-¼ÛG-GmÅ-hïP-¼zÅ-Tmü3) z¸ô-¾Å-hïP-¼zÅ-Tmü4) M¾-ÆâP-ÇeôzÅ-ÁÝGÅ-hïP-¼zÅ-Tmü zTÅ-¾-zNå¼-

hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁhü hï-hG-¼Û¤-qÅ-Gô¤-zIôh-‚-hGôÅ-q¼-zdïm-ŸÛP-¾Å-hïP-¼zÅ-Tm-hÝ-¤-zNå¼-mü GŸm-GÅÞ¤-¯-z-mÅ-hïP-¼zÅ-Tm-hÝ-zNå¼-¤Û-fÞz-qºÛ-PôÅ-º²Ûm-hP-£GÅü hP-fôG-ŸÛP-¾Å-hïP-¼zÅ-Tm-hÝ-zNå¼-MãºÛ-ºV¼-GŸÛÅ-¾ô-hï-mÅ-z¸ÞP-M-VïºÛ-Åô-m¤-q-n¤Å-¾ü ŸÛP-¾Å-ºyâ¾-ºDô¼-Tm-hÝ-zNå¼-MãºÛ-dÛP-Ç+ݾ-zbP-ŸÛP-ü P-±ô¼-»P-ŸÛP-¾Å-

Page 234: 14 mount-everest-dingri

212

212 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

±GÅ-º±ßh-ºzh-ºzÞPÅ-hP-ü ÇÀôz-¢ôP-ZÝP-hÝ-zbP-ü h-hÝP-»ÛG-V-ÍP- 13 q¼-M¾-»ôPÅ-ˆÛ-¾Å-¤Û-n¤Å-¼P-EÛ¤-hÝ-¾ôG-Çkôh-ºhôh-¤ôÅ-¿e¼-‚Å-VôG-TïÅ-ºDôh-»ôhü

Mã-¤±m-hï¼-zdïm-hï-ÇSôm-ºIô-¤Û-VôG-qºÛ-¤Pº-zhG-hP.ü ¤Pº-±z-ˆÛ-yâ-GÝ-n¤Å-¾Å-‚ïh-hÝ-ºIô-VôG-±ß¾-hP-ü z®ôm-DP-ÍP-GZÛÅ-qºÛ-DôPÅ-mÅ-z®ôm-q-¤Û-zhÝm-¾Å-GŸm-±P-¤-uÛ-¾ô- 1979 ¹- 2±ïÅ- 26 ZÛm-¾Å-¤ÛºÛ-DôPÅ-JÀôh-TÛP-ü ¾Å-¤Û-n¤Å-ÆÛh-hzP-¤ïh-qºÛ-ŸÐ-»ôh-AP-AP-»Ûm-¼ÞP.ü ZÛm-ŸÛG-¤Û-¤P-hP-ÇÀôz-IÔü h¤G-ÇK¼-zTÅ-ˆÛ-ºfÞÅ-¤Û-Ghm-iPÅ-qºÛ-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-ŸÛG-º±ôGÅ-bïü ¾Å-¤Û-n¤Å-¾-h-mÅ-z¸ÞP-ŸÐ-¤ô-wÞh-mÅ-=âP-ÈÑ-¤Û-h¤PÅ-uÛ-¤fÞm-M¾-Dz-ˆÛ-uÛ-ºzPÅ-DôPÅ-ÅÞ-±ßh-qÅ-f¤Å-Th-hzP-V-ºi-¤Z¤-hP-ü ÇS¼-¼P-¼ï-hI-hP-¼P-xôGÅ-ˆÛ-ºG¾-z-hP.ü h-mÛ-¼P-¼ï-n¤Å-„Àô-¤fÞm-IôGÅ-qô-¼ïhü M¾-GTïÅ-zŤ-„Àô-GbôP-ÇePÅ-fh-¼P-¼ï-wm-±ßm-GTïÅ-BôP-hP.ü ¼ôGÅ-¼¤-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-Ez-zOGÅ-‚Åü

JÀôh-ºIô¾-¤-zbP-zºÛ-z®ôm-q-zhÝm-HÛÅ-M-GŸÝP-¾-P-±ô-uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ôºÛ-z®ôm-q-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ü Gż-hÝ-mG-ZïÅ-zÅGÅ-¤ïh-qÅ-z®ôm-q-uÛ-¤±ßPÅ-¿e¼-JÀôh-Iô¾-GbôP-¼ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-ljm-ŸÝ-ŸÛG-wÞ¾-z¼ü M-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-Eïh-±ôºÛ-zTh-FºÛ-mP-hïP-hÝÅ-ˆÛ-Gż-zXïºÛ-Pô-

Page 235: 14 mount-everest-dingri

213

ÆÛh-WâÅ-z¸P-hÝ-zbP-»P-ü z®m-M¾-HÛ-Pô-zô-¼P-Åô¼-GmÅü 213

Lô¾-z-ŸïÅ-»ôhü TïÅ-JÀôh-ºIô¾-¤-zbP-zºÛ-Aïm-HÛÅ-Çkï-hGï-z-Fô-M¾-Fô¤-qºÛ-mP-¤VôPÅ-mÅ-¿UïzÅü

»ÛG-V-ÍP-zTß-GÅÞ¤-q-GŸÛ¼-z Þ̧P-P-±ô-¾Å-¤Û-n¤Å-IôÅ-‚ïh-zTßG-Çeï-¾ôG-Çkôh-GP-‚ïh-fh-iÛ-z-¾ïm-Ç+zÅ-±P-¤Å-¾ôG-MãºÛ-¾m-ºhïzÅ-‚Å-q-hP-ü hï-XïÅ-G¸ÞGÅ-fP-Gô-ºwï¼-»ôh-qºÛ-zTß-ÁôG-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-¾Å-¤Û-¼ï-¼ï¼-bP-GÛ-Éâ-TÛ-¿Ë-Å-z-wÞm-±ôGÅ-hP.ü hô-h¤-DÞ¾-HÛ-bàh-=P-GŸÛÅ- ï̄-z-Gm¤-GP-GZÛÅ- Û̂Å-¾ôG-Çkôh-iÛÅ-Ç+zÅ-zTß-ÁôG-GÅÞ¤-mÅü¾Å-¤Û-zŸÛ-¤-GbôGÅ-±P-¤Å-Åï¤Å-fG-Vôh-qôÅ-¼P-EÛ¤-hÝ-¾ôG-MãºÛ-ºhôh-±ß¾-zbôm-qÅü zTß-ÁôG-GŸm-n¤Å-¾-iÛ-¤±¤Å-zŸG-Çeï-¾¤-ÅïP-±ôGÅ-Vïm-ºhÝ-Ç+ôP-‚Å-bï-Eïh-±ô-h-z¼-¤Û-¾ô-ZÛ-ÁÝ-¼ÛP-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-‚Å-ˆP-ü M¾-Dz-ˆÛ-Å-ŸÛP-±P-¤-ÇeôP-q¼-zŸG-mÅ-EÛ¤-hÝ-¾ôG-Mã-zXôh-q-mÛü ÇÀôz-¢ôP-GÛ-Iâz-ºƒÅ-¯-z-mÅ-¤-fôm-q-¼ïhü

Eïh-±ôÅ-zŤ-„Àô-GbP-Çeï-ºhÛ¼-¤Þ-¤fÞh-zÇkh-m-ÇS¼-HÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-¾-ºHã¼-z-ºIô-Mã-hP-ü JÀ-V-»P-ºw¼-HÛ-¼ïhü TïÅ-fG-zTh-TÛP-ü Lm-ºDôGÅ-hP-mh-GTôP-ü hzP-qô-Bôm-Tm-HÛ-¼ÛGÅ-zTÅ-¾Å-;-¤Û-fÞz-q-n¤Å-¾-M¾-Dz- Û̂-ÆÛh-WâÅ-GŸÛ¼-z Þ̧P-¾ôG-hGôÅ-zÁh-Ç+zÅü hï-hG-DôPÅ-mÅ-¤Û-ºGºÛ-EÛ¤-GŸÛ-Gbm-¤ïh-z¸ôÅ-Aïm-¾ôG-GÛ-¤Ûm-zXôh-ˆP-z®m-hzP-GÛÅ-¾ôG-zTßG

Page 236: 14 mount-everest-dingri

214

214 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

hqï¼-mü ¾ô-zMh-Tß-¿ËG-®¤-Åôm-ŸÛP-¤Gô-BïÅ-hÝP-¿e¼-h;¼-zºÛ-Vz-¤hô-¤±m-ZÛh-IÔ-±P-GÛ-IÔ-ÍÛ-ÅÛÅ-GôG-qºÛ-¾ÞÅ-¾G-GÛ-ºD¼-z¼-zdïm-mÅü ºE¼-ºEô¼-Gô¤-zIôh-ˆÛÅ-±ôGÅ-ºhݺÛ-¤hÝm-fôm-bïüP-¾-EÛ¤-Zï-hÝ-ÅôGÅ-TÛ-»P-¤ïh-qºÛ-VßP-mÅ-h¤-q-VôÅ-ˆÛ-ÇKô¼-ŸÝGÅ-q-ŸÛG-»Ûmü ¼P-GÛ-GmÅ-»Þ¾-hGôm-q-IÔ-±P-¯-¤ïh-hÝ-zbP-mÅ-GP-hݺP-ºIô-Å-¤ïh-TÛP-ü h-mÛ-m-LÅ-qÅ-¾Å-ˆP-¤Û-fÞz-Aïm-¾ôG-Å-¤ïhüTïÅ-DôG-mP-Ç~-¤-fÞz-qºÛ-ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-¤ÛG-Vß-yâ¤-yâ¤-Á¼-Áݼ-GZï¼-¤-¾Å-ˆP-zŸÝ¼-»ôP-ü

hïºÛ-G»ôm-mÅ-¤Gô-BïÅ-hP-ü ‚h-zŸÛm-HÛ-GZï¼-¤-GôP-hP-GTÛG-¤±ßPÅ-¾-¾ÞÅ-ºD¼-z¼-zdïm-¤Û-hGôÅ-®¤-»ôh-qºÛ-¾ô-hôm-zŸÛ¼-Åôm-qºÛ-Çkï-hGï-z-LÅ-qô-ÍÞ-Mm-¿ËG-zŤ-HÛÅ-P-¾-¾ôG-Å-¤ïh-q-hP-üÅ-GmÅ-ÁÛG-¾-zbP-»P-¼P-º±ô-¤Û-fÞz-qÅ-ºhÛ¼-ÇKô-ÆâP-GTÛG-¾Å-¤-ºWôm-»P-zŸG-¼ôGÅ-GmP-ü fÞGÅ-XïÅ-G Û̧GÅ-ŸïÅ-ŸÝ-z-wÞ¾ü I¾-¤WâG-hï¼-GmÅ-qºÛ-LÅ-qô-z=-ÁÛÅ-lô-XïÅ-¾ô-¤P-½‰ÛP-Éâ¾-hÝ-Hã¼-qºÛ-ŸÐ-¤ô-ÍÞ-ÅÞ-h;¼-qô-hï-¾G-GÛÅ-wÞh-hïü P-mÛ-¾ô-m-zhÝm-Tß-hôm-zMh-¾-Åôm-qºÛ-LÅ-qô-ºVÛ-D-¤-ŸÛG-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ü ¤hÝm-m-z¸º-¹-hP-zÞ-yâGG»Å-G»ôm-¾-Çtäm-¤Vïh-GP-»P-¤ïh-qÅ-¾ôG-Å-Gbm-mÅ-¤ïh-TïÅ-zXôh-TÛP-GhôP-q-Ǩh-hï-GmÅ-ÅôP-z¼ü M-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-Eïh-±ô-¾ôG-ºhôh-

Page 237: 14 mount-everest-dingri

215

ÆÛh-WâÅ-z¸P-hÝ -zbP-»P-ü z®m-M¾-HÛ -P ô -z ô -¼P-Åô¼-GmÅü 215

¼ÞP-¤-ºhôh-¼ÞP-bP-GÛ-z;º-¼ïh-TïÅ-z®m-hzP-GÛÅ-ÇÀôG-Mã¼-fG-zThü ZÛm-ºGº-mÅ-M-¾Å-ÁºÞ-lô-XïÅ-Eïh-±ô-VP-Å-zMG-MãºÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-»ôh-m-m¤-ŸÝÅ-ˆP-VôG-¤Vm-vôh-Mã-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-zÁh-q¼üym-HÛÅ-¤Û-¾ô-ÉÛ¾-qô-ZÛ-ÁݺÛ-¼ÛP-ym-±ô-Nå¼-z;ôh-zbP-zºÛ-Iâz-ºƒÅ-bP-GÛ-»ÛG-V-ÍP-zTß-GÅÞ¤-qºÛ-mP-ü ¾ôG-Çkôh-¼P-¤ôÅ-ŸïÅ-q-ŸÛG-Gž-»ôh-qü ym-¿e-zÞ-hï-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-EÛ¤-hÝ-¾ôG-Mã-¾Å-VP-Å-zMG-mÅ-ºhÝG-Mã-¤Ûm-zXôhü M-¾Å-ÁºÞ-lô-XïÅ-Eïh-¼P-mÛ-hïP-hÝÅ-ˆÛ-Gż-zXïºÛ-Pô-Lô¾-z-ŸÛG-»Ûm-qÅ-Ç+h-V-hï-¼ÛGÅ-Áôh-qºÛ-hzP-V-¤ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü P-±ô-G¸ÞGÅ-fP-Gô-ºwï¼-ºGº-¾-Gż-zXï¼-Pô-Lô¾-zºÛ-ŸÐ-¤ô-G»ôGÅ-q-hP.ü ºGº-¾-¾ô-ZÛ-ÁݺÛ-¼ÛP-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-‚Å-bï-ÇÀôz-GÅô-¤-fïzÅ-qÅ-zŤ-„Àô-GbôP-hGôÅü ŸïÅ-q-ÅôGÅ-zljh-ºhôGÅ-Ço-±ôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-hôm-hÝ-P¾-¯ô¾-HÛ-mÝÅ-ÁÝGÅ-»ôh-q-n¤Å-z®m-Z¼-‚-ºhôh-qü hï-mÛ-»ÛG-V-ÍP-zTß-GÅÞ¤-qºÛ-mP-hôm-¾G-¾ïm-¤-zÇe¼-z-ŸÛG-hP-ü ¼ï-ÇeôP-ŸÛG-¼ïh-lj¤ü Mã-¤±m-TÛ-»Ûm-Ÿï-mü ±GÅ-q¼-¤Û-±P-¤Å-¤fôP-zÅ-¤Û-¼ï-¸ÞP-Eïh-±ôºÛ-¤Gô-Ç+ô¼-ºôG-º±ßh-ˆP-zŤ-ÁïÅ-Tm-±P-¤-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ-¾ôG-ºhôh-‚ïh-ˆÛ-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü M-¾Å-ÁºÞ-lô-XïÅ-vP-qôºÛ-ºD¼-MãG-¾ºP-¤Gô-¤WâG-»ôh-q-zŸÛm-P-±ôºÛ-ÆÛh-hzP-¾ºP-¤Gô-¤WâG-»ôhü Eïh-±ôÅ-GP-im-‚Å-¤Û-VôG-TïÅ-zÁh-hï-ym-hP-iÛ-¾m-

Page 238: 14 mount-everest-dingri

216

216 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¤±¤Å-zŸGhï-mÅ-¿Ëô-D-z-zÅôh-m¤Å-±ï-zdm-¾-ÁºÞ-lô-XïÅ-Eïh-¼P-VP-Å-

zMz-mÅ-ºhÛ¼-Çkôhü ÇSôm-zŸÛm-¾Å-‚ïh-qºÛ-hzP-V-vh-Mã-zÁh-q¼üzÅôh-m¤Å-±ï-zdm-HÛÅ-Eïh-±ôºÛ-=âP-h‚P-GÛ-»ÛG-V-ÍP- 13 q-¸ï¼-z-D-zÁh-®¤-¾Å-¾G-Çe¼-¤ïhü

Vz-¤hô-z-ÍÛ-ÅÛ-ÅôGÅ-̂ ÛÅ-¾ô-LÅ-¾ÞÅ-GTôP-ŸÛP-EÛ¤-GŸÛ-ºfô¼-mÅ-¾ôG-»Þ¾-¤ïh-±ß¾-¼Û¤-ŸÝÅ-ˆP.Zm-Åï¤Å-Gbm-mÅ-¤ïh-q¼-ÇÀôGhqï¼-mü d-ŸÛG-»Ûm-m-¾ô-LÅ-±ï-GÅh-Mã-hP.ü ¤Û-»Ûm-m-¾ô-LÅ-¤±¤Å-¤fôP-VßP-GÛÅ-Ǩm-zTôÅ-¤Û-‚ïh-q-¤-¸hü ºGm-ºDÞ¼-¯-z-mÅ-DÞ¼-¤Û-hGôÅ-q¼-wÞh-Mã-zTÅ-¾-GŸm-HÛ-¤fôP-±ß¾-»ôh-q-zŸÛmü ym-HÛÅ-zŤ-¤mô-zbP-»P-»G-qô-¯-z-mÅ-¤Ûmü P-ºhôh-q-¤ïh-zŸÛm-VP-Å-zMG-mÅ-ºhÝG-hGôÅ-zXôh-m-P-LÅ-Ç+zÅ-¤fôP-VßP-¤ïh-qºÛ-fôG-Ǩm-zTôÅ-ºGm-¾ïm-hP-ü wÞh-Mã-¤ïh-qºÛ-¾G-ºEï¼-ŸÛG-vh-hGôÅü ŸïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü M-¾Å-ÁºÞ-lô-XïÅ-Ço-GZï¼-ŸÛP-GhôP-q-Fô-GZï¼-¼z-bà-zÇkÝÅ-bï-¾G-ºEï¼-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-q-Ȥ-q-Vï-z-¼ïhü ÇÀôG-Z¼-TÛ-‚ïh-P-±ôºÛ-ºhôh-¤ôÅ-»Ûmü Eïh-±ô¼-¼P-hzP-Çtä-®¤-¤ïhü TïÅ-Ço-ÁÝ-hP-zTÅ-bï-xÛmü

Page 239: 14 mount-everest-dingri

217

º²¤-JÀ ÛP-f ôG-Ç+h-IGÅ-»ôh-qºÛ -b Ø -¾ºÛ -„ À -¤-ŸïÅ-qºÛ -¯ ô¤-»ÛG 217

zTß-zhÝmü

º²¤-JÀÛP-fôG-Ç+h-IGÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-¯ô¤-»ÛG

(1979-3-1980)

uÛ-¾ô- 1979 ¾ôºÛ-zôh-¿YôPÅ-ZÛm-¼ïºÛ-±GÅ-ÁôG-fôG-hïP-hÝÅ-º²¤-JÀÛP-fôG-Ç+h-IGÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤-¤VôG-ÅÞºÞ-¾m-hÝ-G¸ÛGÅ-Ç+ô¼-¤±¤Å-ºiÛ¼-wïzÅ-ˆÛ-»ôh-q-hïÅü M-zôh-GZÛÅ-hz¼-ºG¾-Aïm-z¸ô-Mã-¾Å-wm-q-¤ïh-TïÅ-fôm-q¼ü ÇS¼-bØ-¾ºÛ-¼Þ-±ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-±GÅ-ÁôG-DG-mP-fôm-»P-h-fïPÅ-º²¤-JÀÛP-fôG-ºHã¼-z-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-xÛm-qºÛ-dGÅ-¤±mü º²¤-JÀÛP-fôG-Ç+h-IGÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤-¤VôG-TïÅ-ÅôGÅ-±GÅ-ÁôG-bà-z;ôh-ÇezÅü ¾ÞÅ-Åï¤Å-GZÛÅ-P¾-hÝ-Hã¼-qºÛ-ym-±ô-¼ï-ŸÛG-¾ÞÅ-Åï¤Å-GZÛÅ-zhï¼-Hã¼-

Page 240: 14 mount-everest-dingri

218

218 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

q-hP.ü Åï¤Å-mP-ÇtôzÅ-q-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-ˆP-BïÅü »P-hï-XïÅ-±GÅ-ÁôG-bà-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤-ÅôG-qô-uÛ-¤fÞm-M¾-Dz-mP-wïzÅ-hômü º²¤-JÀÛP-mP-qºÛ-VôÅ-±ôGÅ- Û̂-±ôGÅ-¤Gôm-hÝ-wïzÅ-q-¼ïh-TïÅ-hP.ü Ç+zÅ-hïºÛ-M-¤ÛºÛ-VôÅ-±ôGÅ- Û̂-ºfÞÅ-¤ÛÅ-Gž-zOGÅ-ÁÛG-zbôm-qºÛ-mP.ü h-¾¤-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-ºhÛ-º²¤-JÀÛP-ŸÛ-zhïºÛ-Vïh-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-hP.ü ºhÛ-¾-=âP-GôºÛ-mP-qÅ-¤ôÅ-¤fÞm-Mz-Bô¼-‚ïh-q-hP-VzÅ-TÛG-XïÅ-ÅÞ-»Û-¼P-ŸÝ-Mã-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-ºDôhü

ZÛm-GTÛG-P-ŸÛP-D¼-¢G-ÇÀôG-MG-GÛm-»ôh-qºÛ-¤hÝm-M-¾Å-GŸÛÅ- ï̄-z-¼Þ-hqôm-hzP-ºhÝÅ-hGº-zºÛ-n¤-ºHã¼-Çeôm-zŸÛm-Vïh-hÝ-»ôP-Çeïü PG-hzP-Eïh-¼P-¾-hïP-hÝÅ-zŤ-±ß¾-Gż-q-TÛ-ŸÛG-ºDô¼-¼¤üŸïÅ-iÛÅ-‚ãP-zü ym-HÛÅ-P-¾-zŤ-±ß¾-Gż-q-TÛ-»P-ºV¼-¤-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-¾Å-;-‚Åü hzP-ºhÝÅ-ˆÛÅ-»Þh-®¤-TP-¤Û-¬-z¼-hï-mÅ-Eïh-¼P-Mãm-hÝ-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤ºÛ-Ç+Ý-hq¼-Z¼-mÅ-hh-¤ôÅ-‚ïh-zŸÛm-qü bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-zôh-¾-»ôP-GÛ-¼ïhü TïÅ-zÁhü ym-HÛÅ-¢G-ÇÀôG-MG-¤±¤Å-zŸG-Çeï-¾G-¢G-»Þ¼-zÇeïm-mÅ-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤-xÛ¼-wïzÅ-m-zôh-¼P-z®m-fôz-q-¼ïh-h¤ü

hzP-ºhÝÅü ¤Û-¼ÛP-z¼-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤ºÛ-Ç+Ý-±z-¿e-Ç+ô¼-¾-»ôP-GÛ-¼ïhü zôh-¼P-z®m-ŸïÅ-q-È-TP-fG-¼ÛP-qô-¼ïhü ¿e-Ç+ô¼-zºÛ-ºhôh-

Page 241: 14 mount-everest-dingri

219

º²¤-JÀ ÛP-f ôG-Ç+h-IGÅ-»ôh-qºÛ -b Ø -¾ºÛ -„ À -¤-ŸïÅ-qºÛ -¯ ô¤-»ÛG 219

q-±Û¤-m-hïP-hÝÅ-zôh-¼P-BôP-¿YôPÅ- Û̂-Å-DôPÅ-ºhÛ-¼P-BôP-hPôÅ-GmÅ-ÁÛG-vh-ˆÛ-¼ïhüymü uÛ-¾ô- 1965 mP-z®ßGÅ-qºÛ-zôh-¼P-BôP-¿YôPÅ-hï-hPôÅ-mÅ-¤-»Ûm-m¤ü

hzP-ºhÝÅü h-¿eºÛ-zôh-¼P-BôP-¿YôPÅ-ºhÛ-zôh-q¼-hzP-V-Çtä-®¤-¤ïh-q¼-hzP-V-±P-¤-M-¤ÛÅ-z Þ̧P-zºÛ-¤ÛP-®¤-HÛ-¼P-BôP-¿YôPÅ-¼ïhü M-¼ÛGÅ-ŸÛ-zºÛ-¾Å-‚ïh-n¤Å-M-mG-bà-ÇÀôG-Çeï-zôh-q-¾Å-‚ïh-zÇ+ôÅ-ÁÛP-ü hzP-V-±P-¤-zôh-q¼-¯ÛÅ-vh-hï-G®ô-º²Ûm-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤Å-GmP-m-zôh-¼P-BôP-hPôÅ-GmÅ-hï-¼ïhüymü ¤fº-¤±¤Å-ˆÛ-iG-h¤G-xÛ¼-ºfïm-‚º¤ühzP-ºhÝÅü ¤fº-¤±¤Å-ˆÛ-iG-h¤G-hÝÅ-m¤-»P-xÛ¼-ºfïm-¤Û-‚ïh-q¼-h-hÝP-hïºÛ-fôG-ÁÝGÅ-Çoôm-zMz-Çeï-Æ-zdm-ŸÛG-z¸ô-»Û-¼ïhü

>ÀôG-q-qô-¾GÅü GôP-Gž-HÛ-iÛ-z-iÛÅ-¾m-hï-M-¾Å-¼Þ-hqôm-hzP-ºhÝÅ-hP-ym-z®ôm-q-PG-hzP-GZÛÅ-z®ôm-¼ºÛ-Dô¼-»ÞG-mP-JÀïP-z-»Ûmü iÛ-z-iÛÅ-¾m-HÛ-mP-hôm-Çkô¤-Vï-VßP-hP-hôm-D-Gž-¤Ûmü hï-zŸÛm-xÛ-M-»Û-¾Å-‚ïh-hÝ-ÇoP-zºÛ-¤Û-Ço-hzP-ºhÝÅ-¿e-zÞ¼-GhïPÅ-WÛ-®¤-GmP-¤Ûm-Eïh-ˆÛÅ-fÞGÅ-ºhôh-zŸÛm-º±¾ü

hï-mÅ-¤Û-¼ÛP-z¼-Gm¤-¤±ô-D-q-z-mô¼-z¸P-ºDô¼-ŸG-xÛm-

Page 242: 14 mount-everest-dingri

220

220 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

bï-±ß¼-ºDô¼-mÅü z®m-‚ô¾-zôh-GŸÝP-GÛ-G¸ÛGÅ-Ç+ô¼-z-Ç+zÅ-hP-qô-¿Ë-ż-wïzÅ-bï-GÅÞP-zÁh-GmP-Ç+zÅü ¿Ë-Å-DÞ¾-¤Û-¤P-GÛ-Åï¤Å-ÁÝGÅ-ºGôG-¤-fÞz-q¼-zôh-¼P-z®m-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-Ç+h-ºzôh-‚Å-q-hP-ü Ç+h-ºzôh-‚ïh-¤Û-±ï-¼ÛP-¿Ë-¤ô-¸ï¼-zºÛ-zÞh-¤ïh-TÛG-M-h¤¼-mÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-q-ÅôGÅ-hPôÅ-¤fôP-‚ãP-zºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-n¤Å-WÛ-¤-WÛ-zŸÛm-zÁhü

n¤-;Ým-„Àô-¤fÞm-qºÛ-ym-±ô-¤Û-zŸÛÅ-mô¼-z¸P-¾-z®ôm-DP-GÛ-zhï-ÇkÝG-GmÅ-±ß¾-wÞ¾-¾¤-ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-q¼ü mô¼-z¸P-GÛÅ-z®ôm-DP-GÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-¼ôz-®¤-ŸÛG-»Û-Gï¼-ƒÛÅ-bï-ZÛm-GÝP-wÞ¾-¤-fÞz-ˆP-¤±m-GÝP-zT¼-mÅ-wÞ¾-fÞz-®¤-‚ãP-ü PG-mÅ-z®ôm-DP-GÛ-GmÅ-ÇePÅ-hÝ-¤-ŸÛG-ŸÝ-hGôÅ-lj¤-Çeï-I-OÛG-»ôh-ˆP-Ç+Ý-±z-q-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¤W¾-Ç+zÅ-hGº-Bô-¸ÞP-ƒï¾-HÛÅ-¤ÛG-Vß-Áô¼-z-hP-ü Åï¤Å-±ô¼-¾P-¾ôP-hÝ-ºxã¼-bï-ŸÝ-fÞz-¤-‚ãP-ü Ç+ݺÛ-GTïm-qô-„Àô-z¸P-zŤ-Gbm-HÛÅ-¾ÞG-Á-¾G-q-GTÛG-GmP-‚ãP-z-dïm-ºƒï¾-ÁÛm-bà-¾ïGÅ-ÁÛP-ü ¼ÞÅ-q-n¤Å-ˆP-‚Ûm-dïm-Vïh-Z¼-±ß¾-ÅôGÅ-zÁhü ym-±ôÅ-Ç+Ý-±z-G¸ÛGÅ-Ç+ô¼-z-n¤Å-ºhÛ-xôGÅ-G¸ÛGÅ-Ç+ô¼-wïzÅ-¤Ûm-ÁïÅ-Ťü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-q¼-¤-ÁïÅ-¸ï¼ü ym-±ôÅ-mP-IôÅ-ˆÛÅ-ÇS¼-M-h¤¼-HÛ-±GÅ-ÁôG-DG-bà-bØ-¾ºÛ-¼Þ-±ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-±zü hïP-Ç+zÅ-º²¤-JÀÛP-fôG-Ç+h-IGÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤-¤VôG-

Page 243: 14 mount-everest-dingri

221

º²¤-JÀ ÛP-fôG-Ç+h-IGÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-bØ-¾ºÛ-„À-¤-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-¯ô¤-»ÛG 221

TïÅ-fôm-q-¾-zdïmü º²¤-JÀÛP-mP-zôh-hôm-¾-ºHã¼-z-xÛm-bï-M-h¤¼-mÅ-zôh-hôm-DÅ-„ÀPÅ-qºÛ-¼P-dGÅ-»Ûm-q-hP.ü h-¾¤-HÛ-Ç+Ý-±z-mÛ-&GôP-Å-BzÅ-¤Gôm-Vïm-qôÅ-hzÞ-ºFÛh-qºÛ-zôh-GŸÝP-GÛ-Ç+Ý-±z-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ü zôh-¼P-z®m-¿km-qºÛ-M¾-Dz-TÛG-¾-PôÅ-º²Ûm-bï-Ç+Ý-±z-‚ãP-zºÛ-©ôPÅ-±ôh-hP-ü ÇS¼-¼P-¼ï-n¤Å-z®ôm-hÝ-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-zhïm-qºÛ-hqP-qô-‚ïh-¤Dm-¤ïh-zŸÛmü M-h¤¼-¾-hPôÅ-ÁÝGÅ-zMãh-GÅÞ¤-mÅ-Pô-Lô¾-hÝ-¤-‚Å-bïü ¤Û-ÆôG-ˆP-¤P-qô-hôm-¤ïh-xÛmü

Ç+Ý-±z-n¤Å-ºhÛ-xôGÅ-wïzÅ-m-Gô-Ç+zÅ-z¸ÞP-mÅ-n¤-q-;Ým-bà-Åï¤Å-mP-»ôh-qºÛ-ºhôh-hôm-GTÛG-ZÛhü M-h¤¼-GÝP-Fm-ºôG-Çkôh-¤Û-ºhôh-q-hP.ü zôh-ˆÛ-zhG-qô-zôh-¤Û-»Ûm-qÅ-zôh-¼P-z®m-G®P-¤-hGôÅ-qºÛ-ºzôh-O-ÁÝGÅ-Vï-‚-Mãü hï-zŸÛm-ºhÛºÛ-DÞ¾-HÛ-hGº-Zï-„Àô-¤fÞm-GŸm-±ô-¾ºP.hï-¿e¼-‚ïh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-ºyÛm-zB¾-Mãüh-¾¤-HÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-ºhÛºÛ-fôG-¼P-ÆôG-xÛm-»P-ºHôh-q-¤ïh-q-¤-¸hü½ÀzÅ-Vïm-qô-ŸÛG-ºôP-Mã-ÅôGÅ-¾-IôÅ-¤fÞm-‚ãP-mÅ-¼Þ-DG-zhÝm-qô¼-wm-±ßm-¾m-zB¾ü Ç+Ý-±z-n¤Å-ˆÛ-Ç+ô¼-zôh-¿YôPÅ-ZÛm-¼ïºÛ-±GÅ-q¼-hP-üVzÅ-TÛG-±ôGÅ-ºhݼ-M-¾Å-ÁºÞ-lô-XïÅ-Gž-zÁh-‚Å-hômü Ç+Ý-±z-¿e-Ç+ô¼-z-n¤Å-iG-qôºÛ-GmÅ-GŸÛ-DG-hP.ü GÅP-zºÛ-¾Å-DÞPÅ-

Page 244: 14 mount-everest-dingri

222

222 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

DG-wÞh-qºÛ-ŸÛ-zºÛ-Å-GmÅ-DG-¾-¿e-Ç+ô¼-zBôh-VôG-qºÛ-VôG-¤Vm-M-mG-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-mÅ-vh-»ôh-qÅü z®ôm-DP-ºhÛ-»P-GÅP-zºÛ-¾Å-DÞPÅ-ÅÞ-±ßh-ˆÛ-»ôh-q¼-zdïm-¿e-Ç+ô¼-¾-»ôP-GÛ-¤ïh-±ôh-ˆP.ü G¾-ÆÛh-»ôP-mü Ç+h-V-GP-‚ãP-zÁh-¤Û-VôG ¿e-Ç+ô¼-z-Vß-±ôh-GTÛG-®¤-mÅ-ºIô-Mã-hP-P-±ô-Mãm-hÝ-¤Z¤-Çkôh-‚-hGôÅ-qÅü ̄ ÛÅ-¤WâG-¾-zMG-hGôÅ-m-»G-qô-¤Û-»ôP-ŸïÅ-zXôhü iÛ¾-zOGÅ-ºhÛ-¤±ßPÅ-z®ôm-DP-¤P-qô-ŸÛG-bà-‚Åü

Page 245: 14 mount-everest-dingri

223

Çt ô -z ô -v-©ôG-μôP-z¸ÞP-Ço¼-Gm¤-»ÛG-G»ÞGÅ-qü 223

zTô-zMhü

Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-μôP-z Þ̧P-Ço¼-Gm¤-»ÛG-G»ÞGÅ-qü

(1980-1)

uÛ-¾ô- 1979 ¾ôºÛ-hGÝm-hÝÅ-P-±ô-z®ôm-DP-mÅ-z¸ÞP-Ço-¤Û-¤P-;ÝP-Éï-GÅÞ¤-q-M-Bïh-ˆÛ-ͼ-¾Å-‚ïh-q¼-FÛh-hï-¾Å-;-‚Å-mÅ-Vß-±ôh-GZÛÅ-®¤-XïÅ-bïü ŸôGÅ-qºÛ-Vß-±ôh-zTß-q¼-¤Û-±P-¤-m¤-¤D¼-¿e-z-ym-HÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-TÛ-»Ûm-m¤ü lj¤-mÅ-¿e-Ç+zÅ-m¤-¤D¼-¼Å-ˆÛ-Gݼ-»ôh-qºÛ-ºyâ¾-VÅ-Ç~äh-q-ºi-zü ¤Û-zŸÛ-®¤-GÁôPÅ-z-ŸÛG-¿Ëô-xôGÅ-mÅ-‚P-Á¼-PôÅ-ÅÞ-¼Û-¯ï¼-¤-fôGÅ-®¤-ºwÞ¼-ºôP-ü Gô-¤±ôm-fôGÅ-qºÛ-M-h¤G-ZÛÅ-zM-®¤-¤ï-¤hº-ºEï¼-mÅ-hPôÅ-qô-hï-xôGÅ-G¼-zz-¾-¿e-ŸÛP-MãGÅü hï-mÅ-Å-¾-h¤º-z¼-zzÅ-‚ãP-zü

Page 246: 14 mount-everest-dingri

224

224 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ºGº-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-Å-¾-zz-Å-¼ïh-TïÅ-¸ï¼ü PÅ-»Û-Gï-G»ÞGÅ-mÅ-ºwÞ¼-HÛ-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü z¸ÞP-Ço-Vß-ºDô¼-HÛ-fôh-®¤-hÝ-hïz-¯-¼Å-Vï-z-GÅÞ¤-G»ÞGÅ-mÅ-D-¾ô-zTßÅ-bï-Vß-¤hô-xôGÅ-‚P-¾-G-¾ï¼-¤fôm-qô¼-ºwÞ¼ü P-±ôÅ-hïz-ˆÛ-Zï-ºI¤-ºIô-Ç+zÅ-M-h¤G-hP-ÆâP-h¤G-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-ÆâP-mÅ-¾G-q-ºVP-¤Û-ºWâG GP-¤±¤Å-ÁÛG-mÅ-v-©ôG-μôP-mÅ-ÇS-xÛ-zÇkô¤Å-ºWÛz-ºDô¼-mP-hÝ-MºÛ-hqôm-¼ÛGÅ-DG-zTß-zŸÛ-®¤-»ôP-Çeï-zdG-hrh-‚ïh-Ç+zÅü¤ï-¤hºÛ-¤hïºÞºÛ-¸PÅ-Çoôh-ÍÛm-TÛ-iâG-®¤-»ôh-q-ŸÛG-mÅ-»ÛG-V-¤P-qô-fôm-qü hï-iG-qôºÛ-h¤G-GÛÅ-zdG-hrh-‚-Mã-G¾-Vï-»Ûm-¾ÞGÅ-zÁh-hï-hïz-GŸm-±P-¤-hï¼-zŸG-Çeïü GŸm-¾-Å-GmÅ-ºhÛ¼-»Û-Gï-G»ÞGÅ-Ç+ô¼-ÅÞ-¾ºP-zÁh-¤Û-VôG-G¾-bï-zÁh-±ï-ZïÅ-q-z®ôm-hÝ-ºIô-Mã-¾Å-¤ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-hïü ̧ PÅ-Çoôh-hP-hïºÛ-mP-GÛ-»ÛG-V-ºEï¼-mÅ-hqôm-qô-n¤Å-¾ôG hïºÛ-XïÅ-hï¼-G»ÞGÅ-qºÛ-hïz-n¤Å-M-h¤G-GÛÅ-¤ï-¾-zÆïGÅ-mÅ-¾ôG-xÛmü

P-±ôÅ-hïz-zÆïGÅ-Áݾ-hÝ-xÛm-mÅ-ÁôG-H¼-ŸÛG-¾Å-¤ïh-̂ P-ºfôz-m-lj¤-Çeïü º±ô¾-¤Þ¼-ÇezÅ-¾ïGÅ-q¼-ÁÛP-GÛ-»¾-GºÛ-ÇeïP-hïz-GZÛÅ-ºD¼-z-¤fôP-‚ãP-zÅü hGº-ÇoP-Vïm-qôÅ-hïz-GZÛÅ-hï-¤¼-„ÀPÅ-mÅ-GÅP-z-Vïm-qôÅ-Z¼ü ym-HÛ-IôGÅ-qô-M-¼ÛGÅ-z®ôm-q-;ºô-¾-hïz-GZÛÅ-

Page 247: 14 mount-everest-dingri

225

Çt ô -z ô -v-©ôG-μôP-z¸ÞP-Ço¼-Gm¤-»ÛG-G»ÞGÅ-qü 225

hï-zÇem-mÅ-ºIï¾-zÁh-hGôÅ-qºÛ-¼ï-z-‚Å-qÅü hïz-ˆÛ-mP-¤ºô-®ï-bàP-GÛÅ-G®ôÅ-hzP-º²Ûm-q-±ô-hP.ü ¤Û-zŸÛºÛ-ÁôG-DG ¾Ûm-qºô-zTÅ- Û̂-ºi-hq¼-hP.ü Ç+zÅ-hïºÛ-ÆÛh-º²Ûm-ÈÑ-Gô-wÛm-HÛ-¤f¼-¤ï-NôGÅ-hP.ü ¿UGÅ-Fz-ºDô¼-¾ôÅ-zÇ+ô¼-zºÛ-ºi-q¼-HÛ-GÁ¤-M-»ÛG-TÛG-ºhÝG

IôGÅ-qô-;ºô-mÅ-M-»ÛG-hï¼-¤²âz-¤ô-z®ßGÅ-mÅ-Eïh- Û̂Å-»G-qô-¤-‚Å-m-ºIô-Å-ºhÛ-hG-GÛ-ºôG-»Ûm-ŸïÅü >ÀôG-q-hP-ü hï-mÅ-ÁôG-¾ï-ºGº-ŸÛG-z¿eÅ-bï-zÁh-hômü M-mG-h¤¼-ÁôG-GÛÅ-ÆÛh-hzP-z¸ÞP-z-mÅ-M-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-hP.ü zôh-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-ÅÞ-¾ºP-zhï-z-Gbm-mÅ-¤ïh-q-hP.ü ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-hÝ-¤-¥PÅ-±ß¾-¤ÛºÛ-hzP-qô-Bôm-Tm-z¸ôÅ-q-n¤Å-hqï-¤±ôm-hÝ-¤-zÁhü ¤hô-hôm-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-D-mÅ-zhï-BÛh-zÁh-ˆP-hôm-hÝ-ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-¥P-Mã-¾Å-¤ïh-TïÅ-Pô-Lô¾-Lô¾-Gb¤-HÛ-hïz-TÛG-»Ûm-Ç+ô¼-hP-ü ¤fº-¤¼-ÁÛm-ÈÑ-¤fô-ÇÀôz-mÅ-zbômü ŸïÅ-ºDôh-ºhÝG-TïÅ-Gž-zÁh-‚Åü

»ÛG-V-G»ÞGÅ-qºÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-¾Å-hôGÅ-ºiôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-M-h¤G-hP-»Þ¾-h¤G-GZÛÅ-mÅ-GÅP-Zݾ-º‚ô¼-¤Ûm-¼Û-Zݾ-zMz-TÛP-üym-±ôºÛ-DôPÅ-¾Å-¤Û-qP-¾ïz-z ô̧-¤Dm-±ô¼-¤±m-¤ô-¤Û-ÇÀïzÅ-mü zdG-hrh-‚-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zXôh-hï-qP-¾ïz-z¸ô-¤Dm-±ôºÛ-Mz-bà-»Þ¾-h¤G-hP.ü hïºÛ-Mz-bà-M-h¤G-zTÅ-zdG-hrh-‚ïh-¤Dm-‚-Çtä-Gmôm-±ß¾-

Page 248: 14 mount-everest-dingri

226

226 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

hÝ-zŸG-TÛP-ü n¤-;Ým-hôGÅ-GŸÛ-»ôh-qºÛ-¾Å-¤Û-n¤Å-¾-zdG-ŸÛz-‚ïh-¤Dm-Vïh-hÝ-zÇ+ôÅü

ym-¾ºP-¼P-xôGÅ-¤Û-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-P-±ô-¤Û-ÅÞ¤-Tß-®¤-¾-Eïh-¼P-¤±m-¤ô-Z¾-¤Ûm-hP-ü GP-Áôhü TÛ-‚ïh-zTÅ-¿+ôG-¿e-‚ïh-¤Dm-hÝ-zÇ+ôÅ-q-hP-ü P-±ôºÛ-Mz-bà-zhï-ºWGÅ-¾Å-‚ïh-¤Û-ÇoÅ-¿+ôG-¿e-‚ïh-ˆÛ-»ôh-qÅ-G¸z-IâP-GÛÅ-Çkôh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-mP-Gb¤-zÁhü ZÛm-ŸÛG-¾Å-GÅïP-¾-P-±ôºÛ-Zï-ºI¤-M-h¤¼-¾Å-‚ïh-Dôºô-=P-hq¾-¿km-M-¤±ô-hP-ü zÅôh-m¤Å-wÞm-±ôGÅü ¼Þ-hqôm-VôÅ-ºwï¾-GÅÞ¤-JÀïP-¤ô¾-Ç+zÅ-hïz-hï-¼ÛGÅ-Å-V-DG-¿S-¾-G»ÞGÅ-Ç+ô¼-zÁh-q-mÅ-z Þ̧P-Ço-hP-üVß-¤hôºÛ-wÞü D-bÑ-¸¤-q-GÅÞ¤-¾-G»ÞGÅ-q-hPôÅ-zhïm-»Ûm-q-hP-ü¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-Å-GmÅ-GŸm-GZÛÅ-hï-¤-ÁïÅü

uÛ-¾ô- 1973 ¾ô-mÅ-z®ôm-q-¼P-ZÛh-¾-mG-ZïÅ-¤ïh-xÛm-ŸÝ-GbàG-VôG-qºÛ-VôG-¤Vm-vh-q-¿e¼ü zôh-¼ÛGÅ-z®ôm-q-¤P-qô¼-ŸÝ-GbàGÅ-‚ïh-Åï¤Å-»ôh-̂ P-¾¤-¾ÞGÅ-WÛ-zŸÛm-¤-ÁïÅ-q¼-ºhÛ-¤Þ¼-ºHPÅühï-XïÅ-M-¤Û-z®ôm-q-±ô¼-ŸÝ-GbàGÅ-‚ïh-¾ÞGÅ-ÇÀôz-Çeôm-ŸÝÅ-q-¿e¼-DôP-±ôÅ-ŸÝ-GbàGÅ-‚-MãºÛ-hôm-¯-ºDôh-qºÛ-ljm-ŸÝü μôP-¤Û-h¤PÅ-FÛ¤Å-DP-hP.ü DÞ¾-¤Û-h¤PÅ-FÛ¤Å-DP-ü ¼P-BôP-¿YôPÅ-¤fô-¼Û¤-¤Û-h¤PÅ-FÛ¤Å-DP-ü M¾-ÆÛh-uÛ-Ez-DP-VïÅ-¤fôºÛ-¤Û-h¤PÅ-FÛ¤Å-DP-zTÅ-

Page 249: 14 mount-everest-dingri

227

Çt ô -z ô -v-©ôG-μôP-z¸ÞP-Ço¼-Gm¤-»ÛG-G»ÞGÅ-qü 227

ÇS-¤-ÇS-¤Å-PôÅ-¾ïm-¤-‚Å-±ï-xÛ-¤-xÛ-¤¼-ljm-ŸÝ-GbôP-VôG-Ç+ô¼-zÁhüljm-ŸÝ-GbôP-¾ÞGÅ-¾¤-®¤-ÁïÅ-q-hP.zôh-¼ÛGÅ-z®ôm-q-¤P-qôÅ-¼P-ZÛh-¾-mG-ZïÅ-¤ïh-qÅü JÀôh-ºIô¾-»ôP-zºÛ-ljm-ŸÝ-GôP-Gž-FÛ¤Å-DP-DG-¾-¼Û¤-zbP-¿e¼ü ym-HÛÅ-ˆP-¼P-¾-mG-ZïÅ-¤ïh-zŸÛm-z®ôm-ºWâG-‚Å-bï-h-z¼-¤Û-¾ô-ZÛ-ÁÝ-ºhÅ-qÅü JÀôh-Iô¾-»ôP-z-ŸïÅ-ŸÝ-»ÛG-ŸÛG-zbP-mÅ-¹-z-hGÝ-®¤-ºhÅ-ˆP-hôm-ºƒÅ-¿e-TÛ-¾m-»P-¤-º‚ô¼ü

Page 250: 14 mount-everest-dingri

228

228 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zTß-hGÝ

¤Û-¾ô-ZÛ-ÁÝ-¯-GTÛG-XïÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ-º‚ô¼-zü

(1980-1 1980-3)

¤Û-¼ÛP-zºÛ-ÇSôm-ym-HÛÅ-¿Ë-Å-z-±ïÅ-GÅÞ¤-Dô-=P-¾-ºDô¼-ŸG-ŸÝÅ-qºÛ-¾m-hÝ-±ïÅ-GÅÞ¤-mÅ-Eïh-¼P-¾-Vz-ÆÛh-hP.ü º±ô-zºÛ-¤hÝm-¾¤-vôh-MãºÛ-fG-zTh-qÅü TßP-ÇKÝG-hGôÅü ŸïÅ-zXôhü ±ïÅ-GÅÞ¤-Dôºô-=P-GÛÅ-zÁh-q-¿e¼-uÛ-¾ô- 1980 ¹- 1 ±ïÅ- 5 ZÛm-±ôGÅ-Vïm-ŸÛG-zÇ+ôPÅ-z-ym-ºIô-zºÛ-hzP-V-¤ïh-ˆP-ü ±ôGÅ-Vïm-Iô¾-XïÅ-IôGÅ-qô-n¤Å- Û̂Å-hï-¼ÛP-±ôGÅ-Vïm-fôG-Eïh-¼P-GÛ-hïP-hÝÅ-Gż-zXïºÛ-Pô-Lô¾-zºÛ-mG-ZïÅ-ˆÛ-ŸÐ-¤ô-wÞh-hôü ŸïÅ-¾m-vhü

ÇÀ¼-±ïÅ-GÅÞ¤-Dôºô-=P-¾-ºDô¼-ŸG-»ôP-z-ŸÝÅ-hômü uÛ-¾ô-

Page 251: 14 mount-everest-dingri

229

¤Û-¾ô -Z Û -Á Ý -¯-GTÛG-XïÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ -º‚ô¼-zü 229

1980 ¹- 2 ±ïÅ- 26 ZÛm-ºDô¼-ŸG-ºIô-MãºÛ-¾G-ºEï¼-fôzüym-¤fº-¤±¤Å-¾-ºDô¼-ŸG-zBôh-¤Dm-»Ûm-Aïm-¾G-ºEï¼-fôG-ºi-hq¼-¢¼-hGôÅ-q-¤-¸hü ¾G-ºEï¼-»P-M-¾Å-;ôºÞ-=P-ŸïÅ-q-ŸÛG-mÅ-vh-q-¾Å-z®ôm-qºÛ-¾Å-DÞPÅ-mÅ-GŸm-¾-vôh-q-¿e¼-vh-VôG-GÛ-¤Û-ºhÝG ºDô¼-ŸG-¹-GZÛÅ-¼ÛP-¸-ºƒâ-Zô-MãºÛ-¾G-ºEï¼-(M-Ç+h-¾ÛP-wºô-¸ï¼ü) hP-ü ºIô-zBôh-VôG-qºÛ-¾G-ºEï¼ü ºDô¼-ŸG-fôG-¤Û-¼ï¼-hPÞ¾-ÇKô¼-zM-¼ï-zTÅ-M-hqôm-;ºô-=P-GÛÅ-vôh-Ç+zÅü ym-¾-Eïh-¼P-ºDô¼-ŸG-xÛm-mÅ-¤¼-PïÅ-q¼-hÝ-¾ôG-hGôÅü ºDô¼-ŸG-mÅ-xÛ¼-ºDô¼-XïÅ-¾Å-‚ïh-qºÛ-fôz-fP-vh-Mã-zÁhü

ºDô¼-ŸG-¾-»ôP-Ç+zÅ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-¤-fôz-q¼-Çtô-zô-v-¤ô¼-ZÛm-hGÝ-¾ÞÅü hïºÛ-¼ÛP-M-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1969 ¾ôºÛ-Hïm-¾PÅ-Ç+zÅ-º²Ûm-z Þ̧P-hô-h¤-‚Å-qºÛ-¤Û-zTô-zMh-JÀôh-Iô¾-zbP-mÅ-DôP-±ô¼ü Eïh-¼P-±ô¼-¤Û-‚ïh-qºÛ-ÆÛh-‚ãÅ-¾G-¾ïm-zÇe¼-z-hP.ü Ç+zÅ-hïºÛ- Û̧P-ºFâG-Ç+zÅ-h¤¼-GÅôh-zbP-zºÛ-¤Û-¾-h;¼-ºhôm-Vïh-¤±m-ljm-GÅô¾-Mã-zTÅ-zOGÅü ºhÛ-¿e¼-ÆÛh-WâÅ-Çtï¾-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-mÛü uÛ-¾ô- 1959¾ôºÛ-XïÅ-bï-uÛ-¾ô- 1969 ̧ ÛP-ºFâG-ºhÛ-zôh-M¾-GTïÅ-¤Û-¤P-n¤Å-Û̂Å-M-h¤¼-hzP-Nå¼-¾-Pô-Lô¾-Hïm-¾PÅ-‚Å-qºÛ-½ÀzÅ-Vïm-HÛ-‚-zŸG-hïü hI-hP-¼P-xôGÅ-ºG¾-z-»Ûm-PïÅ-ˆP-¤Û-¤P-mP-DÞ¾-ºG¾-zºÛ-

Page 252: 14 mount-everest-dingri

230

230 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

Pô-zô¼-zNå¼-zºÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-Çtï¾üÇtô-zô-mÅ-¾Å-¤Û-GŸm-iâG-hP-¤Z¤-fôm-bï-fôP-Ǩh-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-

zzÅ-±ßGÅ-ˆÛ-Çoï-¾ïm-DP-hÝ-zÇkhü hï¼-GmÅ-Çkôh-VôG-qºÛ-¾G-ºEï¼-±ß¼-vh-q-hP-ü ºDô¼-ŸG-GÛ-¾G-ºEï¼-zÇkÝÅü ¤±m-GÝP-DÞ¾-hïºÛ-Ç+ô¼-ÆâP-¤ÛÅ-ºIâ¾-q-hP-¾G-ºEï¼-GZÛÅ-zÁï¼ü xÛ-ZÛm-fôm-D¼-GmÅ-Çkôh-VôG-qºÛ-¾G-ºEï¼-hP-GmÅ-JÀ-¯ÛÅ-vh-q-hP.ü ºDô¼-ŸG-GÛ-¾G-ºEï¼-±ß¼-vhü »¼-¾¤-hGôP-ŸG-GP-Dï¾-HÛ-Çoï-¾ïm-DP-hÝ-zôh-M-GZÛÅ-¾-h‚ï-º‚ïh-ÁÝGÅ-Vï¼-»ôh-q-Z¾-VÅ-hP-Z¾-DP-Ÿm-q-n¤Å-zôh-q¼-vôh-q-ÅôGÅ-Å-GmÅ-ˆÛ-¾¤-¾ÞGÅ-GTÛG-Hã¼-¼ïhü

ÅP-ZÛm-fôP-Ǩh-zzÅ-±ßGÅ-mÅ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-hÝ-ŸÝGÅ-bï-Vß-±ôh-GTÛG-hP-xïh-¿ËG-zBôh-qºÛ-¾¤-z¼-qï-TÛP-dGÅ-Tm-HÛ-ºWÛz-TÛG-ºôP-z-hP-fÞG-Çeïü P-±ôºÛ-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-HÛ-¤hÝm-z;G-TÛP-ü ºWÛz-hï-mÅ-¾ô-zŸÛ-zTß-®¤-¾-Åôm-ŸÛP-G¸ÞGÅ-Vï-VßP-º±¤Å-¾-M-VÅ-vÅ-qºÛ-ŸÛ-zºÛ-hqôm-qô-ŸÛG-hP-ü Ç+Ý-ÆâP-z-h¤G-¤Û-¤±ôm-V-fôGÅ-q-GZÛÅ-zTÅ-fôm-mÅ-P-±ô¼-Eïh-±ô-GP-hÝ-ºIô-º¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅü ym-±ô-ºDô¼-ŸG-ºIô-¤Dm-»Ûm-±ß¾-Áôh-Ç+zÅ-ym-¾-¤²âz-¤ô-z®ßGÅ-bï-¼P-P-hP-¤Z¤-hÝ-ÁôG-hP-ü ŸïÅ-zÁhü TÛ-ŸÛG-»Ûm-m¤-lj¤-mÅ-hqôm-qô-hï-hP-¤Z¤-ºIô-Ç+zÅ-ºV¤-ºV¤-HÛ-±ß¾-hÝ-¾¤-HÛ-GŸôGÅ-G»Å-̂ Û-ÁÛP-mGÅ-h Û̂¾-

Page 253: 14 mount-everest-dingri

231

¤Û-¾ô -Z Û -Á Ý -¯-GTÛG-XïÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ -º‚ô¼-zü 231

ºFÛh-hïü Ç+Ý-ÆâP-h¤G-¤Û-GZÛÅ-ˆP-»ôP-¤-zTßG-q¼ü ¤Vß-»ÛÅ-z¸ÞP-zºÛ-f-¤G-@P-GTÛG-qô¼-¤ï-ŸÛG-Çt¼-ŸÛP-Èàz-ºGº-Qâz-º‚Ûm-‚ïh-TÛP-ü Pïh-¾-ºDô¼-ŸG-ºIô-fÞz-q-È-TP-»G-qô-‚ãP-ü Eïh-¼P-GÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-±P-¤-PÅ-ÁïÅ-ˆÛ-»ôhü ºIô-Å-ŸÛG-»ôh-TïÅ-Áôh-ˆÛ-»ôh-qÅ-h-¿eºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-ºhÛ¼-zŤ-„Àô-¾ïGÅ-q¼-fôPÅü ŸïÅ-zÁh-hï-ºfïm-ºyôºÛ-f-¤G-Å-ÇeïP-G»ÞGÅ-mÅ-h-P-GZÛÅ-D-ƒ¾-¼m-ºhÝG-TïÅ-DôP-hP-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-z-ºWÛz-mP-º²â¾-mÅ-ºÞ¼-O-hP-zTÅ-bï-fômü

¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛ-Åï¤Å-ÅÞ-¼P-ZÛh-GŸÛÅ-¯ïºÛ-z®ôm-DP-DG-¾-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-ˆÛ-ºGô-ºFÛh-h¤ü »P-m-Q-Vïmü »P-m-Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-GÛ-¼Þ-DG-GŸm-ŸÛG-GÛ-ºGô-ºFÛh-TÛG-¤Ûm-m¤-lj¤-q-¾Åü Pô-dGÅ-¯-z-mÅ-¤-Vôh-qÅ-¤Û-hï¼-»-¤±m-BïÅ-q-hP-ü ¿ËG-q¼-ºIô-Å-ŸÛG-»ôh-TïÅ-Áôh-ˆÛ-»ôh-qÅ-h-¿eºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-ºhÛ¼-zŤ-„Àô-¾ïGÅ-qô-GbôP-üŸïÅ-qºÛ-Ç+h-V-hï-mÛ-ym-&GôP-Å-¤VôG-hP-zôh-GŸÝP-GÛ-ŸzÅ-XïÅ-ÅÞ-zljïG-hGôÅ-qºÛ-zl-zÇem-q-hï-zÅ-»-¤±m-mÅ-ZÛm-¤±m-ºGº-zŤ-„Àô-GbôP-hGôÅ-‚ãP-ü

¿Ë-ż-º‚ô¼-XïÅ-¿Ë-¿km-G®ßG-¾G-DP-hP.ü ̄ ï-wô-ƒP-h¤¼-qô-GZÛÅ-¾-¤Vôh-¤W¾-¾-zT¼-Ç+zÅ-ÇKô¼-¸Þ¼-GTÛG-vh-hï-¾G-ºEï¼-Zô-hGôÅ-q-hP-ü ¾G-ºEï¼-Zô-¤Dm-¤P-zÅ-Ç+zÅ-¼ï-ºFâG-¸ÛP-Áô¼-

Page 254: 14 mount-everest-dingri

232

232 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

z-hP-Ç+zÅ-¼ï-¾G-ºEï¼-¤-fôz-q¼-¾ÞÅüP-z¼-Ç+ô¼-hÝ-»ôh-Ç+zÅ-¿Ë-ż-z®m-‚ô¾-zôh-GŸÝP-GÛ-Ç+Ý-±z-

fïPÅ-GZÛÅ-q-º‚ô¼-Zï-»ôh-qºÛ-Ç+h-IGÅ-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-Çeïü Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤¼-º²ïGÅ-¤Dm-ZÛ-ÈôP-GÛ-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-¿Ë-ż-ºWÛz-ºDô¼-ŸÛG-mP-º‚ô¼-z| D¤Å-¼ÛGÅ-GmÅ-Ç+ô¼-z-±ôÅ-z®m-‚ô¾-zôh-GŸÝP-GÛ-Ç+Ý-±z-bà-ºFâ¾-mÅ-xG-º±¾-z-hP.ü Dô-±ôºÛ-¾G-mÅ-z¸ÞP-Çeï-¼P-GÛ-¤Gô-fôG-xG-hzP-ŸÝ-zü D-mÅ-PÞ-ºzôh-‚Å-bïü M¾-z-¼Ûm-qô-Vï-Ç+Ý-±ï-FÛ-yG-z¼-hÝ-zdm-q-hP.ü P-±ô-‚ÛºÞ-yâG-fP-hÝ-¾ÞÅ-Åôü zôh-¼P-z®m-¥ã¼-hÝ-fôz-q¼-ÁôG-ÅôGÅ-Ǩôm-ºhïzÅ-‚Åü

ym-G®ßG-¾G-DP-hÝ-¤Vôh-¤W¾-hÝ-zT¼-Ç+zÅ-¼ôGÅ-q-hP.üGmÅ-zÁh-¤Dm-ÇSôm-¤-mÅ-¿Ë-Å-¼P-hÝ-Çkôh-¤Dm-ŸÛG-»ôh-qÅü dïm-G®ô-Wô-zô-¼Ûm-qô-Vï-hP-ü ¿Ë-DP-VßP-PÞ-GZÛÅ-¾-Z¤-VG-ym-zÞ-zbP-»ôh-q-¾Å-hï-¤Ûm-Çkôm-¤-¿e¼-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ü GŸm-±P-¤-Gbô¼-Bôm-zbP-zºÛ-±z-Gż-z¸ô-‚Å-q-Á-ÇeG-hP.ü ¼ÛG-GmÅ-Gż-zXïºÛ-Ç+zÅ-Wô-zô-¼Ûm-qô-VïºÛ-¤Gݾ-Mm-M-h¤¼-mÅ-Gbô¼-ÁÛG-GbôP-Ç+zÅü zôh-¤Û-±ôÅ-¼ï-¸ÞP-Z¼-±G-fÞz-q-VôÅ-hh-¼P-¤ôÅ-Ç+zÅ-Oôm-ºzÞ¾-ŸÝÅ-q-hP.ü ºE¤Å-¼ÐºÛ-mP-wG-±P-hP-wG-qºÛ-zÁÅ-¼-‚Å-qü ¿kïzÅ-¼ÛÅ-n¤Å-ÇSôm-¿e¼-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü

Page 255: 14 mount-everest-dingri

233

¤Û-¾ô -Z Û -Á Ý -¯-GTÛG-XïÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ -º‚ô¼-zü 233

Åï-¼ºÛ-dïm-G®ô-d-¤IÛm-HÛÅ-G®ôÅ-‚ïÅ-Ǩh-GZÛÅ-hP.ÇSGÅ-q-IÔ-±P-zTÅ-mP-dïm-G®ô-zô-GP-º±¤Å-¤W¾-Mã-ºhÝG-q-¾Åü hï-‚ÛPÅ-±P-¤-Gbô¼-Bôm-zbP-ü ¿Ë-źÛ-hGôm-DG-mÅ-ºƒÅ-ÇtäPÅ-ym-zÞ-Z¤-VG-VßP-z-‚ãP-ü

Xï-¼Ûm-qô-Vï-hP-hGº-¿km-FÛ-q-¼Û¤-qºÛ-Ghm-Å-¼Û-zô-hGï-¾ÞGÅ-qºÛ-¤-hGôm-hGº-¿km-hGôm-q-¯-¤ïh-z ô̧Å-mÅ-HP-¼ô-TßP-¾Å-¿ËG-¤ïhüwô-ƒP-qô-bØ-¾¼-uÛ¼-Z¤-VG-Vï-z-z¸ôÅ-¤ïh-ˆP-uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ôºÛ-Û̧P-ºFâG-Ç+zÅ-zMz-qºÛ-¤ï-NôGÅ- Û̂-¤hïºÞ-¼ô-Çtïm-zh-mÅ-ºhôm-q-hP-üTßP-Z¤-VG-Áô¼-z-Z¤Å-GÅô-ŸÝ-zŸÛm-ºhÝG

¼ÛG-Gż-Ç+zÅ-Çeô¼-ÁÛG-zbP-zºÛ-hGôm-q-n¤Å-Gż-zŸïPÅ-‚ïh-¤Dm-zôh-M-VïºÛ-¤P-±ôGÅ-n¤Å-»Ûm-ŸÛP-ü DôP-±ô-¾G-ÁïÅ-qÅ-¾G-¯¾-zïh-uh-q-hP-ü hq¾-º‚ô¼-»ôh-qºÛ-hq¾-º‚ô¼-wÞ¾-zü GŸm-mÅ-Ÿ¾-ºhïzÅ-ÇÀôP-Çeï-Ÿ¾-GÅï¼-hP-m-z¸º-Oôm-ºzÞ¾ü P¾-¯ô¾-HÛ-mÝÅ-q-»ôh-q-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-¾ô-¹-£ï¾-bï-hGôm-q-DG-mP-hP-„ÀP-GÛÅ-P¾-¯ô¾-‚ïh-q-ÅôGÅü ¾ô-ÁÅ-GôP-M-h¤¼-mÅ-M¾-zÇem-Vz-ÆÛh-hP-zTÅ-q¼-©ïG-¤ïh-zTô¤-z½ÀG-GbP-ºV¼-HÛÅ-w¤-ZïÅ-±zÅ-Vïm-ºwôG-ˆP-ü ¼P-GÛ-Çeôm-q-hP-hïºÛ-zÇem-q-zTÅ-¾-hh-GÝÅ-¯ï-GTÛG-zdm-qºÛ-zôh-P¾-¯ô¾-¤Û-¤P-GÛÅ-GÝ-»PÅ-TßP-fôz-

Page 256: 14 mount-everest-dingri

234

234 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ºy¾ü ¤-zÇ+ݾ-hP-„ÀP-GÛÅ-P¾-¯ô¾-HÛ-z¼-GÅïP-Dô-m¼-hGôm-q-Gż-zŸïPÅ-¤²h-q-mÛü M¾-zÇem-ÇÀ¼-GÅôºÛ-ŸzÅ-ºhïGÅ-½ÀzÅ-Vïm-¼P-¼ÛGÅ-ˆÛ-G¸Û-zXÛh-TÛG-¼ïh-lj¤-‚ãP.ü ym-hP-uÛ-¾ô- 1959 z®ôm-DP-hÝ-¤Z¤-hÝ-±ßh-TÛP-ºIôGÅ-ºiÛÅ-Vï-zºÛ-¿Ë-Å-z-hGº-¼Þ-Á¼-Wô-¾GÅ-„Àô-z¸P-¤W¾-z¼-zBôh-ˆP-¤-¤W¾ü ÇSôm-¼P-GÛ-¤Z¤-z®ôm-hÝ-zTßG-mÅ-JÀôh-Iô¾-zbP-zºÛ-¿Ë-DÞ¾-hÝ-Çkôh-¤Dm-¤Û-zTß-GZÛÅ-Pô-fÞG-‚ãP.ü DôP-±ô-hP-wm-±ßm-mP-¤ô¾-‚ãP-Ç+zÅü ¼ÛG-GmÅ-Gż-zXïºÛ-Ç+zÅ-¿Ë-¿km-G®ßG-¾G-DP-GÛ-M¾-ÇKô-¼Þ-ZïÅ-¤ïh-zôh-¤Û-¤P-qô-h¤¼-GÅôh-zbP-z-hP.ü iG-Gmôm-ÁÛm-bà-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-z-z ô̧h-¤-fÞz-z¼ü hGº-¼Þ-Á¼-Wô-¾GÅ-DôP-Vß-¾-¤VôPÅ-mÅ-ºhÅ-IôPÅ-ÅÞ-Hã¼-ŸïÅ-hP.ü G¸ÛGÅ-Ç+ô¼-z-ºhÛ¼-wïzÅ-Ç+zÅ-±ï-¼ÛP-¿Ë-¤ô-ÅôGÅ-¿Ë-DÞ¾-¤Û-¤P-mÅ-zôh-¼P-hzP-¼P-z®m-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-Ç+h-ºzôh-‚Å-q-ÅôGÅ-È-TP-»G-qô-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-zÁhü ym-HÛÅ-P-±ôºÛ-Çkôh-GmÅ-z®ôm-DP-»Ûm-qÅ-G¸ÛGÅ-Ç+ô¼-z-¤W¾-Mã-hP.ü Ç+h-ºzôh-‚-MãºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-¤-fôzü ºhÛ-DÞ¾-ÇÀ¼-»P-G¸ÛGÅ-Ç+ô¼-z-¼Û¤-zÇeàh-wïzÅ-PïÅ-qÅ-Eïh-±ôÅ-ÇSôm-¿e¼-M-h¤¼-¾-ºzôh-O-ÅôGÅ-Pô-Lô¾-‚-hGôÅ-q-¤-¸hü G¸ÛGÅ-Ç+ô¼-zºÛ-¿Ëm-xÛ-¤Û-wïzÅ-±ï-M-h¤¼-HÛ-hzP-ÁÝGÅ-ºôG-m¤-»P-Çkôh-fzÅ-¤ïh-q-hP.ü zôh-¼P-hzP-¼P-z®m-hGôÅ-qºÛ-

Page 257: 14 mount-everest-dingri

235

¤Û-¾ô -Z Û -Á Ý -¯-GTÛG-XïÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ -º‚ô¼-zü 235

Ç+h-ºzôh-ÁÝGÅ-Vïm-‚-hGôÅü Gô-Ç+zÅ-hï-ºiºÛ-Ç+zÅ-¼P-ÆôG-„ÀôÅ-zbP-»P-ºHôh-q-¤ïhü TïÅ-zÁh-q¼ü DôP-±ôÅ-P-±ôÅ-¤Û-¾ô-ZÛ-ÁÝ-¯-GTÛG-¼ÛP-ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-¥PÅ-q-zXïh-fzÅ-Gbm-mÅ-¤ïh-q-¤-¸hü ¤Û-¼zÅ-XïÅ-¤¼-»P-zXïh-hÝ-ºWâG-fzÅ-¤ïhü Gô-Ç+zÅ-m¤-fôz-¾-M-h¤¼-¾-»-¾m-vôh-PïÅ-»Ûmü zôh-ºhÛ-«ôô-Ȥ-HÛÅ-¸-zŤ-Çeï-iG-qôºÛ-GŸÝP-¾¤-Vïm-qô-GÅÞ¤-Gż-z¸ô-‚Å-»ôh-q-mÛü

1) Fôm-zôh-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-GŸÝP-¾¤ü2) ¤±ô-zôh-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-GŸÝP-¾¤ü3) ÁÛP-zôh-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-GŸÝP-¾¤ühï-zŸÛm-zôh-M¾-»ôPÅ-mP-Gm¤-Iâ-ºzz-fP-zŸÛ-Gż-z¸ô-‚Å-»ôh-q-mÛü1) ºh¤-GŸÝP-GÛ-Gm¤-Iâ-ºzz-fP.ü2) ¿Ëô-DºÛ-Gm¤-Iâ-ºzz-fP.ü3) GŸÛÅ-¯ï-¿UGÅ-fP-Gm¤-Iâ-ºzz-fP.ü4) ±-ÇKP-Gm¤-Iâ-ºzz-fP-zTÅ-zôh-ºhÛ-Ȥ-qÅ-z®m-º²Ûm-

‚-ÇÀh-hP.ü hï-ºƒï¾-Å-¤±¤Å-M¾-Dz-DG-¾-iG-qôºÛ-GhôP-¾ïm-hP.üiG-qôºÛ-ÇkÛG-¼Å-Ȥ-¸-z®m-º²â¾-ÇezÅ-TÛG-bà-‚-ÇÀh-Gz-DÞP-GÛ-iG-qôºÛ-º²ÛP-¼G-Å-ºôG-bà-Vïh-ƒâÅ-‚Å-bïü ºfz-¼-M-Vï-z¸ôÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-

Page 258: 14 mount-everest-dingri

236

236 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zôh- Û̂-;ôP-qô-hP-Çtô-zô-μ-»Þ¾-GÅÞ¤-M-G¼-HÛ-Å-¤±¤Å-¾-Dï¾-zºÛ-fôGM-h¤¼-HÛ-dïm-GŸÛ-¤ÛP-¾-hݤ-zÞ-Á¼-hP.ü ¤±ô-Ço-hP.ü Iô-¤ô-GbÛP-BïÅ-xôGÅ-mÅ-M-z¾-HÛ-Å-¤±¤Å-fôG-GmÅ-qºÛ-M-h¤¼-HÛ-dïm-GŸÛ-hݤ-zÞ-hˆÛ¾ü ¤Pº-¼ÛÅ-hP-F-ÇKô-¾¼-hݤ-zÞ-mÝz-zXôh-q-zTÅü dïm-GŸÛ-ºhÛ-n¤Å-GP-hÝ-»ôh-ż-Å-ºôG-hP.ü ¼ÛºÛ-ºôG-zTÅ-q-ºzÞ-IôG-¤ºÛ-±P-¿e¼-ƒâÅ-bï-μÅ-¤hï¾-hP.ü z¸º-zTºü ¤Û-Çkôh-GmÅü hï-±ôºÛ-mP-Vß-hP-JÀôG h¤G-¤DôºÛ-»ô-‚h-V-±P-I-OÛG-GÛÅ-zŸG-»ôh-q-¤-¸hü IôP-Eï¼-DG-¾ºP-º²ÛP-¼ºÛ-Vïh-¼ÛºÛ-DôG-hP.ü Å-ºôG-ƒâÅ-q-ÅôGÅ-‚Å-»ôh-qü hqï¼-mü Çt-¼Û-DÞG-hP.ü qh-¿kÛP-ü IÛz-±ï-¤VôG-JÀÛP-GÛ-G»Å-G»ôm-h¤G-ÇK¼-»ôh-ż-‚Û-±P-zŸÛm-ƒâÅ-»ôhü

zôh-hP-ÁÛm-TP-mÛ-M-mG-GÛ-¿Ëô-mÝz-¤fº-¤±¤Å-»Ûm-q-hP.ü Gô¼-¤ô-¼Þ-¿Ëô-mÝz-¤fº-¤±¤Å- Û̂-dïm-GŸÛ-G®ô-zô-º¤-Í-¤-hï-VGÅ-»ôhü dïm-GŸÛ-ºhÛ-hG-GÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-mÛ-iG-ºfz-‚-Mã-Dô-mºÛ-Vïh-»Ûm-q¼-zdïmüGz-DÞP-hP-º²ÛPÅ-¼GÅ-ÅôGÅ-È-TP-¤P-qô-z¸ôÅ-»ôhü zôh-hÝ-ÇS¼-I¾-¼Û¤-»ôh-¤Dm-HÛ-¤Û-Ço-hP-uÛ-¾ô- 1959 XïÅ-I¾-¼Û¤-HÛ-hI-zôü ŸïÅ-hIºÛ-hP-¤¼-z Þ̧P-zºÛ-¤Û-ºGº-¾-Vz-ÆÛh-IôÅ-¤ô¾-¿Ëm-±ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-¤ÛP-zbGÅ-q-hP.ü JÀ-wôGÅ-ˆP-GP-º±¤Å-vh-hï-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-Pm-¾z-hP.ü ¤Gô-Ç+ô¼-zÇÀâ-ƒÛhü ²-iG-GÛÅ-z®m-hzP-ÅôGÅ-‚Å-

Page 259: 14 mount-everest-dingri

237

¤Û-¾ô -Z Û -Á Ý -¯-GTÛG-XïÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ -º‚ô¼-zü 237

bï-hôm-hÝ-zôh-¤ÛÅ-zôh-¤Û¼-hGG-q-‚ïh-hÝ-ºWâG-GÛ-»ôhü DôP-±ôÅ-ÇS¼-HÛ-GhÝG-¯çz-Vï-zºÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-¼P-fôG-¥ôP-z-n¤Å-hP-ü M-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-Vz-ÆÛh-Dô-mºÛ-Vïh-zïh-uh-q-fÞGÅ-mÅ-zXïh-¤ïhü TïÅ-¼P-¼ÛGÅ-GôP-Gž-n¤Å-mÅ-¿ËG-zŤ-¸ô¾-¤ïh-hÝ-zÁhü

¿Ë-ż-ZÛm-hGÝ-zÇkh-hï-Çtô-zô-mÅ-»ôP-zºÛ-¾Å-¤Û-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-h¤G-¤Û-ÁPÅ-q-±ï-lô¼-hP-ü ÆÅ-q-º‚ô¼-¿kmü M¾-¯ï-z-hP-ü Ço-h;¼-¯ï-qü ¿Ëô-D-z-zTÅ-Eôm-¤Û-zTô-¿S-®¤-hP-¤Z¤-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-fôG-¤Û-¼ï-¼ïÅ-ÇKô¼-ÅÞ¤-Tß-Åô-iâG-vh-hï-GŸÛÅ-¯ï¼-fômü ¿Ëô-D-z-±ï-¼ÛP-lô-Xï¼-ym-HÛÅ-h-¾ô-¿Ëô-D-¾ô-¾ïGÅ-qô-‚ãP-P¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-q¼-DôP-GÛÅ-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-ºV¼-GŸÛ-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-‚Å-q-zŸÛmü Å-ŸÛP-ºhïzÅ-¾Å-hP.ü Çeôm-ºƒÅ-zÇkÝ-¾ïm-‚-hGôÅ-q-¾Å-¼P-zŸÛm-º‚ãP-zºÛ-D¤Å-hP-zÇeàm-zºÛ-¤Û-¤P-GÛ-ºhôh-q-¿e¼ü ¾Å-;-‚ïh-qºÛ-hzP-V-Gbm-mÅ-¤ïh-qÅ-h-¾ô-Çeôm-ºƒÅ-¾ïGÅ-ˆP-xïh-¿ËG-¼Þ¾-Bôm-xÛmüŸïÅ-zÁhü ym-HÛÅ-bP-GÛ-ºfÞÅ-¤ÛºÛ-±ôGÅ-Vïm-fïPÅ-zTß-GTÛG-qºÛ-uÛ-zOGÅ-mP-hzP-V-±P-¤-¤Û-¤P-¾-vh-»ôhü TïÅ-ºDôh-»ôh-q-zŸÛm-Eïh-±ô¼-zŤ-ºV¼-Áôh-qºÛ-hzP-V-¤ïh-h¤-zÁh-q¼ü ±ï-¼ÛP-lô-XïÅ-hï-mÛ-hïz-hP.ü ±GÅ-ÁôG-fôG-GÛ-hzP-V-®¤-¾Å-¤Û-¤P-GÛÅ-¾ôPÅ-uôh-qºÛ-hzP-V-ŸÛG-Gbm-mÅ-¤Ûm-¸ï¼ü ºhÛ-¿e¼-zôh-

Page 260: 14 mount-everest-dingri

238

238 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

M¾-»ôPÅ-mP-¼P-¼P-¾ÞP-qºÛ-Eh-VôÅ-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-ŸÛP-ºhïzÅ-¾Å-hP.ü Çeôm-ºƒÅ-zÇkÝ-¤-zTßG-q-zdïm-Çeôm-ºzz-¾ïGÅ-fôz-¤-‚ãP-z-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛ-Aïm-qÅ-º±ô-z¼-h;º-P¾-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-»ôhü

ym-HÛÅ-Ço-h;¼- ï̄-q-qh-¤-n¤-Iô¾-¾-ÇSôm-»¼-ºƒôG-DÞ¾-mÅ-»¼-ºƒôG-Ç+¤-ÅPÅ-ŸïÅ-zôh-hÝ-Á-Ç+¤-qô-fôm-ºzô¼-Vï-ÁôÅ-»Ûmü hïP-Ç+zÅ-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-ºV¼-GŸÛ-¾G-zÇe¼-HÛÅ-¼-¾ÞG-GÅôh-¤-zTßG-Aïm-¼-¾ÞG-ºwï¾-MÅ-Vïm-qô-xÛm-»ôh-h¤ü ŸïÅ-zXôh-q¼ü qh-¤-n¤-Iô¾-mÅ-¼-¾ÞG-ºwï¾-MÅ-¿e-ŸôG-¿kz-GTÛG-®¤-¯-¤ïh-xÛmü Mã-¤±m-mÛ-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-ÁÛm-TP-GÛ-¾ÞG-Q-¤-¼ÛP-qô-ŸÛG-zôh-hÝ-¼ÛGÅ-Mãh-Çtï¾-Vïh-zôh-¾ÞG-hP-¤Z¤-Çkïz-zTßG-Çeï-¾Þ-GÝ-BïÅ-±h-Å-V-¤-ºyôh-q¼-ÁÛüºhÛ-fh-zôh-¤ÛÅ-zŤ-ºV¼-¾ô-¤P-Mãm-zÇeàh-zbP-»P.M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-Zm-Åï¤Å-Gbm-mÅ-¤Û-‚ïhü TïÅ-zXôhü

M¾-¯ï-z-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-zôh-mP-¤Û-¤P-uÛ-DP-z®ßGÅ-mÅ-z=ïÅ-Ç+ô¤-HÛ-ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-zŤ-HÛÅ-¤Û-Ez-q-‚ãP-ŸÛP-ü ¤ï-ÁÛP-GTÛG-qÞ¼-V-zŸG-ˆP-¼Þ-DG-GÛÅ-¤Û-vôh-q-hP.ü ZÛm-¾Å-;¼-ºIô-hGôÅ-qÅ-¤ï-ÁÛP-OæG-qºÛ-Dô¤-q-¤ïh-Aïm-¤ï-ÁÛP-Vh-hï-¤±m-¾-OæG-bà-ºIô-hGôÅühï-¿e¼-P¾-¯ô¾-ZÛm-¤±m-¿eôÅ-¤ïh-‚ïh-hGôÅ-‚ãP-zÅ-h;º-P¾-È-TP-Vïm-qô-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-zÁhü

Page 261: 14 mount-everest-dingri

239

¤Û-¾ô -Z Û -Á Ý -¯-GTÛG-XïÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ -º‚ô¼-zü 239

hGôP-iôºÛ-Vß-±ôh-¿S-hP-xïh-¾-ym-±ô-M¾-̄ ï¼-º‚ô¼-bï-½ÀPÅ-ºDô¼-¤Vôh-dïm-¼Ûm-qô-VïºÛ-Zï-ºFÛÅ-zMãh-mÅ-zBôh-Ç+zÅü M¾-¯ï-z-hïÅ-¤Vôh-dïm-¼Ûm-qô-Vï-xÛ-mÅ-Z¤-VGÅ-¤ïh-q-¿e-zÞ-¤W¾-Mã-»ôh-q-ºhÛ-¿e¼-»P.mP-dïm-n¤Å-¯-¤ïh-zbP-mÅ-¤ïhü TïÅ-zÁhü

hGôP-iô-hï-GŸÛÅ-¯ï¼-º‚ô¼ü GŸÛÅ-;-¯ïºÛ-uÛ-μôP-Çeô¼-bï-HP-GôG-TÛG-z ô̧Å-»ôh-q-hP-z=-ÁÛÅ-¿Ëàm-qô-hGôm-qºÛ-¿Ë-DP-Gbô¼-zºÛ-Áݾ-¾-±¾-ŸÛP-hP-wG-±P-‚ïhü &qa-Vïm-Ç+Ý-yïP-iâG-z¼-HÛ-Ç+Ý-GhÝP-¿Ë-DP-n¤Å-¯-Çeô¼-GbôP-Ç+zÅü h;º-Vïm-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-&qa-Vïm-Ç+Ý-yïP-zŸÛ-qºÛ-Ç+Ý-GhÝP-Ç~Å-Ç+ÝP-fÞz-qÅü Ç+zÅ-hï¼-hGôm-q¼-wÞ¾-mÅ-¤Vôh-ºzÞ¾-ŸÝ-zŸÛm-ºhÝG GŸÛÅ-¯ï-hGôm-IôP-GÛ-Mz-¼Û-VôÅ-zhG-mï-Åï¼-¼Û-¯ïºÛ-¿Ë-dïm-¾-h¼-¿UôG-f¼-fô¼-ŸÛG-z®ßGÅü

±ïÅ- 8ü 15ü 30 ±ïÅ-z¸P-n¤Å-¾-z=-ÁÛÅ-¿Ëàm-qô-hGôm-q¼-¤Û-¤P-¤Vôh-¤W¾-hÝ-GbôP-ü Fô¤-¼-uÛ-¾ô- 1966 hP-¤Û-ºi-z¼-Á-¤¼-ÅôGÅ-¼P-ZÛh-¾-¾G-hPÞ¾-»ôh-±ï-GP-ºhôh-Zô-VôG

ym-HÛÅ-GŸÛÅ- ï̄ºÛ-±ôP-q-Í-TG-¤ÛG-h¤¼-VôÅ-Oôm-¾-ÇKï¼-±ôP-‚ïh-VôG-mÅ-hÝÅ-G-±ôh-xÛm-m¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅ-q¼ü ¤ÛG-h¤¼-VôÅ-Oôm-HÛÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1979 ¾ôºÛ-zôh-GŸÝP-GÛ-Ç+Ý-±z-G¸ÛGÅ-Ç+ô¼-z-¤-wïzÅ-®¤-mÅ-ÇKï¼-HÛ-±ôP-GZï¼-VôG-q-z¸ôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁhü ym-HÛÅ-DôP-¾-¤Þ-

Page 262: 14 mount-everest-dingri

240

240 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¤fÞh-G Û̧GÅ-Ç+ô¼-z-ºhÛ¼-wïzÅ-Ç+zÅ-¤Û-¤P-GÛ-Åï¤Å-ÁÝGÅ-TÛ-ºi-ºhÝG-zXôh-q¼ü Ç+Ý-±z-G Û̧GÅ-Ç+ô¼-q-ºhÛ-xôGÅ-¤-wïzÅ-GôP-®¤-¾-M-h¤¼-mÅ-ºhÛ-DÞ¾-HÛ-¤Û-¤P-n¤Å-¾-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-ŸÛG-Ç+ôP-zºÛ-fôG-¿e-Ç+ô¼-z-±ô¼-Ç+h-V-zÁh-q-hP.ü hGº-zºÛ-n¤-ºHã¼-ÅôGÅ-Çeôm-¤Û-VôG Eïh-±ôÅ-P-±ô-GÝP-Fm-bP-hP-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-GÛ-¸Å-¸-GÛ-»ôh-Aïm-»Þ¾-H¼-zºÛ-¿e-Ç+ô¼-z¼-hGº-zºÛ-n¤-ºHã¼-hP-Ç+h-V-zÁh-hGôÅ-hôm-¤ïhü G¾-bï-ÅÞÅ-Ç+h-V-zÁh-q-hP.n¤-ºHã¼-zÇem-±ïü hï¼-GŸÛGÅ-qºÛ-FÛ¤Å-GTôh-ZïÅ-q-GbP-Mã-¤-¸hü hGº-zºÛ-n¤-ºHã¼-Çeôm-¤Dm-¾-¾ô-GTÛG-GÛ-¸-wôGÅ-GTôG-Mã-zÁh-q¼-zdïmü Ç+Ý-±z-n¤Å-GŸÛÅ-¯ï¼-wïzÅ-Ç+zÅ-ºhôh-q-±Û¤Å-qºÛ-hGº-zÅÞ-ŸÝ-fÞz-¤-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-zXôhü

GŸÛÅ-¯ï¼-ZÛm-zhÝm-zÇkh-hï-Áï¾-h;¼-zMãh-Ç+zÅ-Áï¾-h;¼-VôÅ-Çkï-¯-Çeô¼-zbP-ºhÝG-q-hP-ü hÛP-¼ÛºÛ-¼Û-Mãh-n¤Å-MP-mÅ-¤fôP-z-hP-Åï¤Å-È-TP-hGº-ŸÛP-ü Zï-z¼-zT¼-z-hP-¼P-GÛ-w-»Þ¾-¤ÛG-¤fôP-Hã¼-Ç+zÅ-Åï¤Å-mP-GÛ-¤²ïÅ-ÁÛP-»Ûh-ºôP-GÛ-w-»Þ¾-hï-¤Ûm-q¼üHP-GôG-Åï¼-¼ôP-Pï-z-ŸÛG-bà-Hã¼-q-¤fôP-¤-fG hGº-zºÛ-Åï¤Å-JÀô-zÞ¼-ÇkÝG-zÇS¾-HÛ-¼P-zŸÛm-hÝ-Hã¼ü ºhÅ-qºÛ-hÝÅ-»Þm-hP.ü zôh-¼P-hzP-GÛ-¾ô-MãÅü uÛ-±ôGÅ-hïºÛ-hôm-hPôÅ-GmÅ-zz-¾-xÛ-¤ÛG-z¿eÅ-mÅ-im-GÅô-‚ïh-Ç+zÅü ¼P-ZÛh-

Page 263: 14 mount-everest-dingri

241

¤Û-¾ô -Z Û -ÁÝ -¯-GTÛG-XïÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ -º‚ô¼-zü 241

ŸÛP-ºƒôG-Å-DÞ¾-EÛ¤-±P-ŸÛG-GÛ-mP-BïÅ-ÁÛP-º±¼-¾ôPÅ-‚ãP-zºÛ-‚ÛÅ-q-im-ÁïÅ-½‰ïh-®¤-HÛ-Ç+zÅ-mÅü ¼P-GÛ-iÛm-Tm-w-¤Å-G®ôÅ-zôh-¤Û-n¤Å-Û̂-PG-¾¤-Mãm-ºWGÅ-ÅÞü hGï-z-hP-ÇkÛG-qü ‚¤Å-q-hP-ljÛP-Xïü ¾Å-ºƒÅ-hP.ü ±ï-ºhÛ-xÛ-ÅôGÅ-zXôh- Û̂-»ôh-q-¿e¼ü ¼P-ZÛh-¾ºP-PïÅ-ÁïÅ-¼P-zŸÛm-HÛÅ-»ôP-z-¤-¸hü zôh-¤Û-n¤Å-‚ÛÅ-q-¬-zXôh-fÞz-®¤-mÅü ¤-aÛ-»ÛG-iâG-ÅôGÅ-ÇÀôz-¤-hGôÅ-q¼-¼P-ÁÝGÅ-̂ ÛÅ-ºhôm-ÁïÅ-̂ Û-»ôh-q-ÅôGÅüzôh-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-¾-Eh-ºwGÅ-z¸P-uôh-»-¼zÅ-̂ Û-Gô¤Å-GÁÛÅ-z¸P-qô-ŸÛG-»ôh-q-¿e¼ü zôh-¤Û-n¤Å- Û̂Å-mP-mÅ-„À-¤-hP-hGï-zºÛ-zÁïÅ-GZïm-¾-ÅôGÅ-VôÅ-‚ïh-hGï-z®ßm-n¤Å-¾-hh-q-hP-GÝÅ-z;ݼü w-¤¼-GÝÅ-ÁÛP-ŸzÅ-ŸÝ-hP.ü Lm-¼zÅ-¾-z Û̄-z;ݼü ¼P-¤Z¤-¾- Û̄Å-¤fôP.ü Z¤-VßP-¾-‚¤Å-z ï̄-hP-ljÛP-Xï-wm-IôGÅ-ÅôGÅ-‚ïh-̂ Û-»ôh-q-¾Å-hï-¾Å-¿kôG-qºÛ-‚-uôh-¼ÛGÅ-¾-±P-¤Å-ºDP-¼-hP-ü h¤º-ºzïzÅ-‚ïh-q-zTÅ-¾-zdïm-Gô¤Å-GÁÛÅ-z¸P-qô-¤ÛG-Mãm-»ôh-fôG zôh-GŸÝP-hGº-¿km-wô-ƒP-GÛ-VôÅ-ÆÛh-GZÛÅ-¿km-HÛ-¾¤-z¸P-¾-zôh-¤Û-±P-¤¼-¾ÞGÅ-¤fÞm-HÛ-VôÅ-hP.ü ºWÛG-dïm-HÛ-‚-z-GP-TÛ¼-¼P-hzP-GÛ-ÇKô-mÅ-¾ôPÅ-ÅÞ-uôh-Mã-»ôh-q-¿e¼ü @Ý-μâm-F¤-ÅôGÅ-¤Û-hGï-zºÛ-‚-uôh-¤-Çtï¾-±ïü ºIô-ºhÝG-uôh-GÅÞ¤-GP-ż-ºIô-z-¤ÛºÛ-;Ým-uôh-fôz-fP-V-±P-»ôh-qü hqï¼-mü ŸÛP-ºƒôG-GÛ-hq¾-º‚ô¼-fôm-Bïh-‚ïh-¤Û-n¤Å-¼P-¼P-GÛ-GmÅ-»Þ¾-Å-zz-¾-

Page 264: 14 mount-everest-dingri

242

242 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zÇeàm-mÅ-¾Å-‚Å-VôG-q-¾Åü ºhÛ-hP-ºhÛ-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-z®m-z;º-GbôP-¤Dm-¤ïh-q-hP.ü hï-zŸÛm-VôÅ-‚ïh-hGï-z®ßm-n¤Å-¾-¼P-¤ôÅ- Û̂Å-hGôm-q-GP-hÝ-OÛG-ŸÝGÅ-‚ïh-q-hP.ü hzïm-GmÅ-¼Û-Fôh-ÅôGÅ-GP-hÝ-¤±¤Å-zljïm-Oæz-ÅôGÅ-‚ïh-Mã¼-¼P-hzP-hP.ü hï-zŸÛm-±ôP-¾Å-q-n¤Å-̂ P-¼P-hzP-GÛ-ÇKô-mÅ-M-h;¼-mG-ÅôGÅ-GP-ż-ºIô-Bôh-VôG-GÛ-»ôh-qü f-m-¿eô-ÇÀôP-¤Dm-ŸÛG-¾-V-zŸG-mºP-GP-hÝ-ºIô-hP-ü GP-hÝ-ºhÝG-¼P-hzP-¾Å-ÅÞ-ŸÛG-mÅ-̂ P-h¤-ºGôG-‚ïh-¤Dm-¤ïhü º‚ô¼-¿km-hP-±ôP-¼ÛGÅ-DG-ÅôGÅ-mÅ-zôh-GŸÝP-GÛ-h¤G-ÇK¼-HÛ-Gô-¤±ôm-¤ï-¤hº-¼ÛP-fÞP-¼ÛGÅ-ºi-¤Ûm-Z¼-VôG-q-ÅôGÅü ¼P-hzP-Vïm-qô-hï-¿e¼-HÛ-uÛ-±ôGÅ-mP-¤Û-GÅôh-FG-¢ô¼-hP-ºFâG-Û̧P-GÛ-hôm-Aïm-ÅôGÅ-È-TP-¤fôP-h;ôm-q-uÛ-±ôGÅ-GP-żü ŸÛ-zhï-zG-wïzÅ-Û̂Å-º±ô-zŸÛm-q-¤-̧ hü EÛ¤-¤±ïÅ-M¾-Dz-M-G¼-hP-z¾-»Þ¾ü ºƒâG-»Þ¾-ÅôGÅ-hP-wm-±ßm-hôGÅ-̧ ôm-HÛ-n¤-dôG-®¤-»P-¤ïh-q-ºIô-ºôP-ºV¤-¤fÞm-ŸÛ-zhï¼-GmÅ-qü zôh-¿YôPÅ-»ôPÅ-ÅÞ-¤Þ-Gï-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-̂ ÛÅ-¤Û-¿eôGÅ-ÁÛ¼-ÅôP-z-ÅôGÅ-n-fôÅ-®¤-»P-¤ïhü

¼Û->ÀâP-Ç+¤-GÁï¼-ÅôGÅ-¾-GmÅ-qºÛ-‚-¼Û-hÐGÅü Z-Ƥ-ºzÞ-ÆÛm-ÅôGÅ-¾ºP-GP-‚ãP-º±ï-z-¤Û-VôG-qºÛ-GŸÝP-Å-mÅ-¯-±ÛG-¼Ûm-qô-Vï-ºIï¤Å-Çtï¾-GmP-GÛ-»ôh-q-¿e¼ü uÛ¼-zbP-º±ï-z-ÅôGÅ-¤ïh-q¼-zG-wïzÅ-Mã-zŸÛm-q-zTÅü ¤hô¼-m-zôh-VôÅ-¿km-M¾-Dz-TïÅ-¤ÛP-hôm-

Page 265: 14 mount-everest-dingri

243

¤Û-¾ô-ZÛ -ÁÝ-¯-GTÛG-XïÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ-º‚ô¼-zü 243

¤±ßPÅ-q-hï-;Ým-HÛ-¤fôP-VôÅ-ÅÞ-»ôh-q-¿e¼ü ¼P-ZÛh-¾ºP-hï-ÇSôm-HÛ-GmÅ-zz-z¸P-qô-n¤Å-im-qºÛ-¾¤-hÝ-Gž-qô¼-ºV¼ü

ZÛ-ÁÝü

GTïm-GTßP-GZÛÅ- Û̂Å-PºÛ-„Àô-Ço-ºwGÅ-»Þ¾-hÝ-iPÅ-qü(1980-3-18 1980-4-30)

uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô-ym-º²Ûm-z Þ̧P-¤-‚Å-GôP.hÛP-¼Û-mÛ-̄ Ó-Vß-º²ô¤Å-¾| VGÅ-z;ôh-¾ïGÅ-ÁÛP-¤Û-n¤Å-zG-wïzÅ-PP-hÝ-GmÅ-̂ P.ü ym-º²Ûm-z Þ̧P-‚Å-mÅ-¤Û-¾ô-Zï¼-GTÛG-¼ÛP-Çoôh-zTßh-hP-zTÅ-q¼-f¾-¤hôG-fômü ÇS¼-HÛ-¤-EÛ¤-hï¼-¿e-®¤-‚ïh-q¼-xÛm-qÅ-M-GŸÝP-GÛ-VßÅ-¤Û-¤P-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-GÛÅ-±ôP-DP-z®ßGÅ-ºhÝG VßÅ-=P-¤Gôm-qô¼-ljm-GÅïP-ŸÝÅ-q-hP-º‚ô¼-fô-z;ôhü¤Gôm-qôÅ-ym-¾-GZïm-Çtäm-ż-Çkôh-VôG-q-hP.ü z¸º-zTºÛ-¾G-ºEï¼-fôG-¹-GTÛG-GÛ-̄ ¤-q-hP.ü W-±-¤¼-GÅÞ¤ü P-±ôÅ-z®ôP-Mã-hP.ü ‚-Pm-Çtï¾-¤Û-VôG-TïÅ-zÁhü ¤Gôm-qôÅ-Eïh-¼P-GÛ-ÇS¼-HÛ-¤-EÛ¤-GP-hÝ-»ôh-h¤ü ŸïÅ-

Page 266: 14 mount-everest-dingri

244

244 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

iÛÅ-‚ãP-zü PºÛ-DP-q-VßÅ-¤Û-¤P-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-GÛ-±ôP-DP-hï-¼ïh-TïÅ-zXôh-qÅ-XïÅ-ÅÞ-Eïh-¼P-¾-¼G-GÛ-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁhü

GZïm-±m-GTßP-¿Ë-¤ô-¯h-zTh-hï-DôP-GÛ-¤hÝm-GmÅ-±P-G»¼-ŸÛP-ü ÇSôm-HÛ-hGº-Zï-„Àô-h;¼-n¤Å-hP-¤Z¤-hÛP-¼Û¼-Çeôm-ºƒÅ-¾ïGÅ-ZïÅ-TÛ-‚ãP-iÛÅ-q¼ü DôP-±ôÅ-ºhÛ-¾ô-Çeôm-ZïÅ-‚ãP-zÅ-¾ô-¼ï¼-¤Û-¼ï¼-ºƒâ-¼ÞºÛ-D¾-GÅÞ¤-(D¾-¼ï¼-;Û-¾ô- 18)¼ï-hP-¤Û-GÅÞ¤-¾-¾ô-GTÛG-GÛ-Á-hôh-¾ÞG-GTÛG-¾Å-vôh-ˆÛ-¤ïh-TïÅ-zXôhü

ym-HÛ-VßP-IôGÅ-±ï-¼ÛP-fG-GTôh-ˆÛÅ-EÛ¤-hÝ-ºzôh-hï-VP-iP-¯ÛÅ-‚ïh-q-ym-HÛÅ-VP-ºfÞP-GÛ-¤ïh-±ß¾-zÁh-q¼ü W-DôG-¿kÛ¼-GP-z¸ô-MãºÛ-¤¼-®¤-¤ïh-qºÛ-GmÅ-ÇePÅ-Bô-qô¼-GmÅü hï-DÞ¾-¤Û-¤P-GÛÅ-GÝP-Fm-bP-»ôm-»Ûm-xÛm-ÅÞ-GTÛG-¾-¤Û-fôz-qºÛ-Á-¤¼-¼P-ºhôh-hÝ-¾ôPÅ-ÅÞ-uôh-Mã-»ôh-q-hqï¼-mü VßÅ-ˆÛ-¾Å-‚ïh-q-GZï¼-z-lô-XïÅ-¾ô-GTÛG-¾-¾ÞG-zTß-GTÛG-zÅh-mÅ-z¸Å-±ß¾-¿+ôG-¾z-‚ïhü

ZÛm-zMh- Û̂-XïÅ-w-iâG-hGº-¼¼-GZïm-ºyh-¾-zBôh-hï-wm-±ßm-JÀïP-¤ô¾-Ç+zÅ-hï-DÞ¾-¼P-¼ÛGÅ-ˆÛ-GÅP-zºÛ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-ÁÛG-Çoï-Áô¼-bï| M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-h¤¼-GÅôh-hP.ü z®ôm-ºWâG ŸÛz-ºWâG-±ôGÅ-ºhÝ-zÇ+ôPÅ-q-ÅôGÅ-¤Û-Åï¼-¾-±h-¤ïh- Û̂Å-lz-ÅÛG-ºwôG-±ß¾-hP-ü hï-DÞ¾-¤Û-¤P-GÛÅ-¼P-GŸÝP-¾-fÞGÅ-wm-GÅôÅ-Vïh-¾Å-hôm-Çtï¾-mºP-ü

Page 267: 14 mount-everest-dingri

245

GTïm-GTßP-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-PºÛ -„ À ô -Ç o -ºwGÅ-»Þ¾-hÝ -iPÅ-qü 245

¼P-¼ï-zôh-¤ÛºÛ-zÅôh-m¤Å-ˆÛ-¤fÞ-Ÿm-qÅ-¾¤-¿ËôPÅ-»ôP-GÛ-¤ïh-±ß¾üÇÀh-GÅP-zºÛ-¾Å-hôm-‚-m-wm-±ßm-GZÛÅ-fôG-mÅ-PïÅ-q¼-G¸z-mm-‚ïh-hGôÅ-ºhÝG TïÅ-hP-ü Ç+Ý-±z-hP-qô-n¤Å-w-iâG-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-wïzÅ-MãºÛ-¼ï-z-Vïm-qôÅ-DôP-±ôÅ-I-OÛG-GP-º±¤Å-‚Å-ˆP.Å-B-mÅ-»¼-wïzÅ-¤-‚ãP-ŸïÅ-„Àô-w¤-HÛÅ-Áôhü

ÇSôm-¼ÛG-GmÅ-Gż-zXïºÛ-Ç+zÅ-zŤ-¤ïh-M-h¤¼-HÛ-MãG-EÛ-¿Ë-¿UôGÅ-ÅôGÅ-Gbô¼-¤Dm-mÅ-¤Û-zTß-GÅÞ¤-Zï-¾¤-¤Ûh-q-ºGG-mÅ-ÁÛ-zü zôh-ˆÛ-¿Ë-ÆâP-hzÞ-ºwP-¤fô-¼Þ-xÛm-qºÛ-dGÅ-ÅÞ-¤Pôm-q-¤-¸hü¼P-z®m-ºfôz-m-¯ÛÅ-zMG-GÛ-¼ïh-¸ï¼-z-zTÅ-zŤ-¤ïh-MãG-EÛ-±ô¼-Ÿïh-ÇoP-‚ïh-»Þ¾-GZÛÅ-Á¼-bïü ¿Ë-ÆâP-GÛÅ-Gmôh-hôGÅ-GÅP-zºÛ-fôG-¤±m-¤ô-¿Ë-GÅô¾-mÅ-ŸôGÅ-q-¿Ë-¿UôGÅ-ÅÞ-h¼-¿UôG-F-ÅïP-Pï-Çkôhü

hï-mÅ-hÛP-¼Û¼-¾ôG-XïÅ-M-¾Å-d¤-ŸïÅ-q-»P-»P-»ôP-mÅ-PºÛ-EÛ¤-GP-hÝ-»ôh-hP-ü fÞG-q¼-xÛ-M¾-¾-xÛm-mü ÅôGÅ-Áôh-q¼-ym-HÛÅ-mP-¤Û-I¾-¼Û¤-¤Ûm-»P-¼Û-zôP-T¾-ºiôGÅ-ˆÛÅ-ƒôÅ-qÅ-h-Ç+zÅ-fÞG-ºhôh-ˆP-ü ym-ºIô-VôG-qºÛ-¾G-ºEï¼-¤ïhü G¾-ÆÛh-FÛ¤Å-ºG¾-fôG-xÛm-m-P-¾ô-ZÛ-ÁÝ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-‚Å-q-ºyô-z½ÀG-¼ïh-TïÅ-zÁh-qÅüDô-qÅ-zŤ-„Àô-»Þh-®¤-zbP-XïÅ-»Û-Gï-ŸÛG-ƒÛÅ-mÅ-P-¾-vôh-hP-ü PÅ-z¾-»Þ¾-z¼-ºyôh-fzÅ-‚Å-VôG hï-mÅ-¼P-GÛ-Pô-ÁïÅ-º±ô¾-ÁôG-¸ï¼-

Page 268: 14 mount-everest-dingri

246

246 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

z-¿e¼-PÅ-GTïm-GTßP-n¤Å-¾-¼P-ZÛh-zhï-fP-fôG-Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-mÅ-hÛP-¼Û¼-ºDô¼-ŸG-¾-ÇÀïzÅ-bïü GZïm-Zï-GTßP-¿Ë-¤ôºÛ-¤hÝm-zÇkh-»ôh-qÅ-GbàG-q¼-»ôP-¼ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-ƒÛÅ-mÅ-z¾-»Þ¾-ºWô-¾-Dï-¾-»ôh-q-hÛP-¼Û-z| zÞ-¤ÛP-¾-PG-hzP-mô¼-zÞ-zMãh-m-ºIÛG-±ß¾-Dô-q¼-vhü

hï-mÅ-ZÛm-zTß-GTÛG-®¤-mÅ-ym-w-iâG-mÅ-hÛP-¼Û¼-»ôP-Ç+zÅ-GTïm-¤ô-Íô-Mm-Oô¾-¤-hP-ü GTßP-qô-d-¤IÛm-GZÛÅ-GTßP-¿Ë-¤ôºÛ-EÛ¤-hÝ-º‚ô¼-bïü wm-±ßm-Pô-fÞG-‚ãP-z-ºVÛ-GÅôm-ºyh-q-¿e-zÞºÛ-hGº-z-Vï-‚ãP-ü hGôP-¤ô-hï-Í-¤-IôPÅ-Ç+ô¼-¤Û-ljm-qºÛ-Gb¤-hï-»P-fôÅü

DôP-±ôÅ-ym-GÅôm-qô¼-GmÅ-¤ïh-q-fG-zTh-hï-»Þm-¼ÛP-ºhÅ-q-hP-m¤-Mãm-¿e¼-±ôP-¾-fôm-D¼ü JÀô-zÞ¼-ym-HÛ-zbP-zºÛ-»Û-Gï-hï-l-¼¤-Å-¾¼-º‚ô¼-¤-fG-Åï¤Å-hGº-zhïÅ-Ez-TÛP-ü ¾¤-ÅïP-±ôP-¾-¤-xÛm-q¼-zôh-¾-»ôP-z-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-zÁhü xÛ-ZÛm-VßÅ-=P-GŸôm-q-h‚PÅ-Tm-ym-Çtäm-GÅÞ¤-¤hÝm-ÇÀïzÅ-bï-M-h¤¼-HÛ-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-»P-hG-»Ûm-Ç+ô¼-hÝ-¤-ŸÛG-zÁhü ym-HÛÅ-M-h¤¼-HÛ-hPôÅ-ÁÝGÅ-zMãh-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-‚-Pm-n¤Å-Gž-ÁïÅ-‚Å-ÇezÅü h‚PÅ-Tm-HÛÅ-ym-GÅÞ¤-¾-ÇÀh-ˆÛ-ºV¼-GŸÛ-TÛ-»ôh-Zݾ-ŸÛz-‚ïh-q¼-»ôP-z-±ôh-hqGÅ-fÞzü

ym-HÛÅ-M-¾Å-h‚PÅ-Tm-¾-PºÛ-ºDô¼-ŸG-hÝÅ-μôGÅ-bï-ZÛm-¿S-ºhÅ-qÅü Çtäm-¤Vïh-n¤Å-fG-¼ÛP-mÅ-Pô-GbàG-bà-º‚ô¼-Aïm-ºw¼-

Page 269: 14 mount-everest-dingri

247

GTïm-GTßP-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-PºÛ -„ À ô -Ç o -ºwGÅ-»Þ¾-hÝ -iPÅ-qü 247

ºHPÅ-ŸÝ-MãºÛ-PôÅ-¢ô¼-ŸÛG-GmP-¼ôGÅ-ŸïÅ-zXôh-q¼ü h‚PÅ-Tm-HÛÅ-ºGô-G®ô-¤Gôm-qô¼-¤ô¾-zÇkݼ-‚Å-bï-hqP-dGÅ-»ÛG-VßP-ŸÛG-vh-VôG-TïÅ-zÁh-hï-¾ôG

GmÅ-±P-hÝ-ym-±ôÅ-Vz-ÆÛh-̂ Û-Ç+ô¼-GP-»P-¤-zÁh-q¼-xÛ-¾-zBôh-hï-ym-z¾-»Þ¾-hÝ-ƒôÅ-MãºÛ-Ç+ô¼-¾-GÅP-¤ô¾-‚ïh-Ç+zÅü GTïm-GTßP-GZÛÅ-mÅ-¤Z¤-hÝ-ºIô- ï̧¼-»P-ym-HÛÅ-¤Z¤-hÝ-xÛm-m-±P-¤-G Þ̧P-GÛ-¼ïhü P-GTÛG-qÞ¼-»ôP-GÛ-»Ûmü Eïh-GZÛÅ-z¾-»Þ¾-hÝ-fh-;¼-¾ôG-Çeï-ym-ÇKÝG-¼ôGÅü GTÛG-‚-m-ym-GÅh-qºÛ-Gb¤-hP-ü GTÛG-‚-m-GÅôm-qô¼-º‚ô¼-HÛ-¼ïhü hï-¤Ûm-fzÅ-¾¤-GTÛG-ˆP-¤ïh-qÅ-G¾-bï-GmÅ-±ß¾-fzÅ-ÇkÝG-q-‚ãP-m-„Àô-ºHôh-TÛ-»P-GmP-Mã-¤ïhü TïÅ-ŸÝÅ-bï-fG-zThü GTïm-GTßP-GZÛÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1980 ¹- 4 ±ïÅ- 3 ZÛm-z¾-»Þ¾-hÝ-fômü xÛ-ZÛm-ym-VßÅ- Û̂-ºGô-G®ô-¤Gôm-qôºÛ-¤hÝm-mÅ-hGôPÅ-q-xÛ¼-ºHPÅ-Hã¼-qºÛ-hqP-dGÅ-»ÛG-VßP-„ÀPÅ-bï-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-fôm-DÞ¾-Áï¾-h;¼-hÝ-zBôhü¹-z-hïºÛ-±ïÅ- 6 ZÛm-Áï¾-h;¼-mÅ-D-xôGÅ-zNå¼-bï-Gô¤-ŸïP-Vïm-qôÅ-¤Û-¤ïh-¾ÞP-ÇeôP-Á-ÇeG-zMãh-Á¼-DÞ¤-zÞºÛ-GPÅ-¾ºÛ-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-zBôhü

GPÅ-¾ºÛ-¤±¤Å-lôG-¤FïÅ-ºDÞ¼-zºÛ-¤Û-zŸÛ-fÞG-q-mÅ-wô-GŸôm-ŸÛG-GÛÅ-Eïh-GP-mÅ-»Ûm-m¤-ŸïÅ-iÛÅü PÅ-GZïm-ºyh-¾-zBôh-±¼-mÅ-z¾-»Þ¾-hÝ-¾ôG-GÛ-»ôhü TïÅ-zÁh-qÅü wô-GŸôm-hïÅ-GZïm-ºyh-

Page 270: 14 mount-everest-dingri

248

248 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

xÛm-q-ŸÛG-¯-z-mÅ-¤-¼ïhü TïÅ-zXôh-q¼ü ±ß¼-ljh-º±ô¾-‚ïh-¤Û-»Ûm-mü ¤Û-¤ïh-¾ÞP-ÇeôP-»Ûm-qÅ-Gb¤-ljm-qô-Áôh-qºÛ-hGôÅ-q-¤ïh-Aïmü ºô-mü P-G-¼ï-¼ïh-ºhÝG-G¤ü ŸïÅ-iÛÅü wô-GŸôm-hïÅ-º²â¤-®¤-PP-h-G-¼ï-»Ûm-»P-»Ûmü GPÅ-¾-wm-fôGÅ-ºôP-GÛ-¼ïhü TïÅ-¤ÛG-Áï¾-mG-qô-ŸÛG-P-¾-vôh-Ç+zÅü hï-¤-fG-wô-GŸôm-hïºÛ-¤²â¤-¤hPÅ-¿km-qºÛ-‚h-zŸÛm-mÅ-P-¾-V-MãÅ-»ôh-qºÛ-ÇoP-z-ŸÛG-ºV¼-zü PÅ-¾¤-hÝ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-zBôh-TÛP-wô-GŸôm-hï-m-±ôh-¾ô-Zï¼-zŸÛ-®¤-»Ûm-±ôh-hP-ü¼P-ZÛh-z®ôm-hÝ-º±ßh-mÅ-¤Û-¾ô-Zï¼-GTÛG-ºhÅ-qÅ-hï-Ç+zÅ-DôP-¾ô-GÅÞ¤-¾Å-Åôm-q-ŸÛG-¤Ûmü »P-ljÛP-wô-GŸôm-hïºÛ-‚h-zŸÛm-hP-PºÛ-ºiïm-‚ïh-z¼-¾Å-ºyô-G-¼ï-»ôh-h¤-lj¤-mÅ-zŤ-„Àô-WÛ-®¤-zbP-»P-¾m-ŸÛG-¤-½‰ïhü

±ß¼-»ôP-zºÛ-DôP-±ôºÛ-@P-XïÅ-hïh-mÅ-ZÛm-GP-GPÅ-Á-ÇeG-zMãh-hGôP-iô-Vß-±ôh-¿S-q-®¤-¾-GPÅ-fÞ¼-ŸÛG-zMz-TÛP-ü Å-ºzÞ¼-ŸÛG-bà-W-zÇ+ô¾-bï-±-wôGÅ-TßP-zMz-XïÅü ¤Þ-¤fÞh-zBôh-¤Þ¼-¤Þm-G-¾ï¼-¼Þz-TÛP-¹-ºôh-̂ P-¤Û-Gž-zÅ-¼ôP-ŸÛG-zMãh-Ç+zÅ-Ç+zÅ-¼ï-¼Û-ºzÞ¼-hÝ-ÇÀïzÅ-q-hP-Ç+zÅ-¼ï-Å-Ç+ôP-hÝ-ÇÀïzÅ-bïü ¾¤-̄ -z-mÅ-¤-½‰ïh-qÅ-w-zôP-ŸÛG-GÛ-fôG-Z¾ü

¤±m-GÝP-GPÅ-¼Þh-ˆÛÅ-ºÞ¼-O-hP-ü GhôP-q¼-»P-GPÅ-ÅÛ¤-ÅÛ¤-ºfô¼-bï-¤±m-GP-GZÛh-»ï-¤-DÞG-q¼-m¤-¤DºÛ-B-¼ïPÅ-¾-

Page 271: 14 mount-everest-dingri

249

GTïm-GTßP-GZÛÅ-ˆÛÅ-PºÛ -„ À ô -Ç o -ºwGÅ-»Þ¾-hÝ -iPÅ-qü 249

¼ï-z-zTÅ-bïü m¤-¾PÅ-¤-fG-»¼-¾PÅ-mÅ-Å-ºzÞ¼-ŸÛG-º²ïGÅ-Ç+zÅ-z¾-»Þ¾-hÝ-ºIô-źÛ-¾¤-B-Á¼-¼ï¼-¤fôP-ŸÛP-ü ¼P-ZÛh-Zïm-D-¾Å-ˆP-Iô¾-z-ÁïÅ-‚ãP-ü Å-ºzÞ¼-hï-mÅ-¼P-»Þ¾-zôh-xôGÅ-¾-¿e-Ç+zÅ-hï-zÅ-fG-¼ÛP-z-hP-¾¤-zIôh-q¼-h;º-zºÛ-ÇoP-z-ŸÛG-ºV¼-z-hP-ü ºhÛ-mÅ-¯ÛÅ-qºÛ-¾-w¼-Mz-m-Z¤-VßP-¼P-¼ÛGÅ-n¤Å-z®m-M¾-HÛ-GhÝG-¯çz-Tm-HÛ-ÆÛh-WâÅ-hP.ü Mãm-Vh-¤ïh-qºÛ-¤m¼-GTôh-ºôG-¤Û-ºhôh-zŸÛm-GmÅ-ÁÛP-ü ¼P-»Þ¾-¼P-hzP-GÛ-Vïh-hPôÅ-ÁÝGÅ-zMãh-GÅÞ¤-mÅ-z®m-º²â¾-z¼-¤Û-ºhôh-q¼-GTïÅ-qºÛ-ÆôG-IPÅ-¤ïh-zbP-z-ÅôGÅ-Bô-G¼-HÛ-‚ãP-z-¤fº-»Å-q-PÅ-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¤fôP-ü

hqº-zô-hÝ-¤-ŸÛG-h¤¼-GÅôh-GbôP-D¼-ºWÛGÅ-ŸÝ¤-¤ïh-q¼-&GôP-Å-¤VôG-Ç+Ý-±ï-zdm-q-hP-ü zôh-¼P-z®m-ºfôz-q-ÁôG TïÅ-ºzôh-O-zOGÅ-»ôhü hï¼-zdïm-PÅ-ºhÅ-GÅôm-n¤Å- Û̂-¼ï-zºÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-»Þ¾-&GôP-Å-¤VôG-hP-ü z®m-‚ô¾-GŸÝP-h¤PÅ-GZÛÅ-;ºÛ-ljm-hÝ-ºEô¾-z-TÛ-mÅ-ˆP-‚ü m¤-ŸÛG-¼P-»Þ¾-hÝ-M¾-DºÛ-Gb¤-z¸P-ºDÞ¼-mÅ-¾ôG-fÞz-z¤ü lj¤-q-ÅôGÅ-Åï¤Å-±ô¼-ÁÝGÅ-iG-TÛG-ºxã¼-ŸÛP-»Þh-®¤-¤mô-zŤ-¾-GmÅ-¤Þ¼ü GŸôGÅ-G»Å-ÅÞ-z®ßGÅ-qºÛ->ÀâP-h¼-ZÛ-¤-hP-ü V¼-qü ½ÀâP-zTÅ-ˆÛÅ-¸h-Éâ¾-hÝ-Hã¼-bï-¼¾-q-¿e-zÞ-VGÅ-q-hï-½ÀâP-GÛÅ-zÇ+ݾ-zºÛ-O-Dï¼-AP-ŸÛG-IGÅü

Page 272: 14 mount-everest-dingri

250

250 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

Zï¼-GTÛG

z®m-‚ô¾-HÛ-±ô¼-ÇoP.ü(1980-4-30 1980-8)

GTïm-GTßP-GZÛÅ-hP-ym-z¾-»Þ¾-ºWô-Dï¾-hÝ-¤Z¤-º²ô¤Å-‚ãP-ŸÛP-ü ¤Vôh-dïm-n¤-GÅÞ¤-HÛÅ-G®ôÅ-GmÅ-Vïm-DG-¤W¾-Ç+zÅüM-h¤¼-HÛÅ-¾ô-Zï¼-GTÛG-¼ÛP-VôÅ-xôGÅ- Û̂-‚-z-mG-ZïÅ-Vïm-qô¼-z Û̄Å-bï| VôÅ-hh-q-h¤¼-GÅôh-GbôP-z-ÅôGÅ-VôÅ-hh-ˆÛ-¼P-hzP-z®m-ºyôG-‚Å-qºÛ-GTôP-mh-Vïm-qô-hïü TÛ-ºhôh-ˆÛÅ-VôÅ-hh-¼P-hzP-¾-¾ôPÅ-ÅÞ-uôh-Mã-»ôh-qºÛ-z¾-»Þ¾-hÝü ¼P-zŸÛm-HÛÅ-ŸÛ-mÅ-±h-¤ïh-qºÛ-hGº-ÇtôzÅ-¤±m-HÛ-©Û-¾¤-HÛ-ºFâ¾-ÇoP-zŸÛm-‚ãP.ü

ÇS¼-HÛ-hGº-Zï-„Àô-h;¼-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-G®ôÅ-¼P-¼ÛGÅ-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-ÇS¼-@P-q-Çtô-¤-¥ôP-zºÛ-¤Û-»Þ¾-hÝ-ºzh-z¯ôm-Vïm-qô-‚Å-qºÛ-ºƒÅ-zÞ¼ü GŸÛÅ-VGÅ-ÁÛP-z;ôh-G®P-GÛ-DP-qºÛ-mP-¼P-hzP-GÛ-º±ô-

Page 273: 14 mount-everest-dingri

251

z®m-‚ô¾-HÛ -±ô¼-ÇoP-ü 251

z¼-¾ôPÅ-ÅÞ-uôh-Mã-»ôh-q-hP-ü GŸôm-BïÅ-n¤Å-Gmº-hïP-GÛ-ÁïÅ-»ôm-¿km-q-¤fôP-Ç+zÅ-ym-¼P-È-¾Å-ÁÛP-ÇtôzÅ-Åï¤Å-BïÅ-q-hP-üDôP-±ôÅ-¼P-ZÛh-JÀÛP-G-GbôP-hÝ-FÛh-Ç+zÅ-z¸º-zbàP-GÛ-¾ôPÅ-uôh-hP.ü TÛ-ºG¼-ºIô-zBôh-ÅôGÅ-‚ïh-Mã-»ôh-q¼-hGº-z-±ô¼-ŸÛP-üGŸÛÅ-¾ÞÅ-n¤Å-¾-ºhÛ-¿e-zÞºÛ-zhï-z¼-¾ôPÅ-ÅÞ-uôh-Mã-ŸÛG-¤ïh-lj¤-Çeï-hGº-Bô-¸ÞP-GÛ-¤VÛ-¤-yâ¤-yâ¤-zlô¾ü

uÛ-¾ô- 1980 ¹- 5 ±ïÅ- 13 ZÛm-zŸÝGÅ-ÇK¼-l-¼¤-Å-¾¼-º‚ô¼ü Ç+zÅ-hï¼-&GôP-Å-¤VôG-M-G¼-¿Ëô-xôGÅ-GŸÛÅ-VGÅ-DG-¾-VÛzÅ-Nå¼-BôP-zŸÛm-qºÛ-Ç+zÅ-Dï¾-z-hP-ü hï-XïÅ-ZÛm-ºGº-mÅ-ŸzÅ-Åô¼-ºDôh-Ç+zÅ-G®ßG-¾G-DP-GÛ-GÁ¤-mÅ-MP-¤W¾-ŸÝÅ-bï-Ǩôm-¾¤-iG-bà-zbômü

ZÛm-ŸÛG-l-źÛ-zhï-hôm-hzÞ-º²Ûm-Ç+¾-hI¤-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-zÞ-ŸÛG-ym-ºzôh-q¼-¤PGÅ-q-zŸÛm-zhï-hôm-¾Å-DÞPÅ-ÅÞ-zT¼-zÅü DôP-GÛÅ-Eïh-¼P-zôh-mP-z®ôm-q-»Ûm-qÅ-GmÅ-±ß¾-¤P-qô-ŸÛG-ŸÝ-Mã-»ôh-PïÅ-qÅ-G¸Û¤-VßP-¤W¾-D-ŸÝº¤ü GÅÞPÅ-qü ¼P-ZÛh-¾-Dï¼-AP-¤W¾-ŸÝºÛ-ÇtôzÅ-q-bÛ¾-ºƒâ-®¤-¤ïh-ˆP-¤W¾-D-ºfôz-m-¼z-»ÛmüGmÅ-±ß¾-ym-zÞ-ŸÝ-Mã-»ôhü TïÅ-ŸÝÅü ZÛm-¿S-®¤-mÅ-zhï-hôm-¾Å-‚ïh-GTÛG-»ôP-Çeïü G¸Û¤-VßP-¤W¾-D¼-ÁôG-GÅÞPÅ-q-zŸÛm-zT¼-

Page 274: 14 mount-everest-dingri

252

252 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

Ç+zÅ-¼P-GÛ-zŤ-±ôh-¾Å-Vï-Vï¼-zL¾-zü Ç+Ý-¤hÝm-Ç+Ý-AP-G¸Û¤-VßP-hÝ-zŸÝGÅ-ºhÝG-q-hP-ü Ç+Ý-xG-hP-¤W¾-h¼-wÞ¾-zÅ-xG-hzP-GmP-mÅ-¤¼-Çkôh-hP-GÅÞPÅü

GÝÅ-ºhÛ-xôGÅ-»ôP-hôm-ÅôGÅ-hPôÅ-»ôh-ˆÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-n¤Å-¼ôz-zÇkÝÅ-hP-ü Vß-±ôh-GTÛG-hP-xïh-¼ÛP-¼P-ZÛh-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-mÅ-z¸ÞP-uÛ-ÇKï¼-HÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-n¤Å-ŸÝÅü &GôP-Å-¤VôG-GÛÅü »×üHôP-qô-‚Å-ºhÝG z¿eÅ-ˆP-HôP-¤hôG-D-qô-ºhÝG ÇSôm-ÆôG-„ÀôÅ-GbôP-ºhôh-‚Å-q-GŸm-wm-¼ïhü TïÅ-hP-ü ¼P-¾-º±ô-zºÛ-¼ôGÅ-q-TÛ-hGôÅ-Ťü ŸïÅ-GÅÞPÅ-q¼-ym-HÛÅ-GÝÅ-z®ôm-mP-¤Þ-GïÅ-¤-ÁÛ-zÅü h-mÅ-¤Þ-GïÅ-ºVÛ-»Û-¤-¼ïhü zôh-mÅ-ºôP-Ç+zÅ-h¤G-¤Û¼-ºIô-hGôÅ-zŤ-q-»ôhü xÛÅ-zôh-ˆÛ-hôm-hÝ-ÆôG-„ÀôÅ-GbôP-AP-»Ûmü ŸïÅ-ŸÝÅü ¤fº-¤¼-Åï¤Å-¿Ëôh-qô¼-Çkôhü xÛÅ-h;º-P¾-TÛ-‚ãP-»P-Áôh-q¼-ÁôG TïÅ-GÅÞPÅü

¹-ÁÅ-¤WâG-ym-¤ôm-JËô-^Û-hP.ü Èôm-ÅÞ¼ü Ç~ï-¾-;ô-ÇtÛ-zTÅ-¾-zBôh-mÅ-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¤fôP-z-hP-ü ÇSôm-hÝÅ-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-M-G¼-hÝ-»ôh-qºÛ-zôh-q-n¤Å-ÈÛm-hÝ-M-Bïh-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-q¼-BzÅ-zTô¾-»P-ü ÈÛm-hÝ-ÆÛh-GŸÝP-Dô-¼P-±ô-¼P-¤Gô-¤-fôm-q¼-;-¾Û-;-b¼-ZÛm-¼ï¼-¤Û-IPÅ-¿S-zM-¿eôGÅ-ÁÛ-fïzÅ-q-hP-ü hï-zŸÛm-zôh-q-n¤Å-ˆÛ-¸Å-GôÅ-Çkôh-DP-

Page 275: 14 mount-everest-dingri

253

z®m-‚ô¾-HÛ -±ô¼-ÇoP-ü 253

zTÅ-¾-h;º-P¾-ÁÛm-bà-Vï-zÅü ¤P-Vï-z-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-hP.ü ±-mh-ˆÛÅ-ÁÛ-Aïm-h-Ç+zÅ-xÛ-M¾-hÝ-zôh-¤Û-ZÝP-ÁÅ-¤-GbôGÅ-¤ïh-TÛP-ü hï-hG-¤HôGÅ-¥ã¼-zôh-¾-¾ôG-»ôP-GÛ-»ôhü TïÅ-ÅôGÅ-zÁh-q-n¤Å-zŤ-„Àô¼-ºDô¼-Ç+zÅ-GP-zÁh-μâm-hÝ-Pô-Gž-qô-ºyôhü

&GôP-Å-¤VôG-GÛ-fÞGÅ-Xï-z;º-iÛm-„À-¤ïh-¾-zdïm-mÅ-Ghm-Å-DG-GÛ-G®ôÅ-zôh-ˆÛ-VôÅ-hP-¼ÛG-GŸÝP-GÛ-zÇeÛ-GmÅ-hÝ-¤-hP-ü hï-¤±ßPÅ-M-G¼-GŸÝP-mÅ-¤Û-¤P-n¤Å-¾-ŸÛP-D-hP-ü DP-q-ÅôGÅ-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-GP-¾ïGÅ-hP.ü ¼P-GŸÝP-mÅ-GŸÛÅ-VGÅ-DG-¾-zhï-hôm-hzÞ-º²Ûm-hP.ü ŸÛP-ºhïzÅ-ºyâ¾-ºDô¼-ÅôGÅ-¤fÞm-Aïm-È-TP-¾ïGÅ-qô-GmP-z-hP.ü zÞ-±-¤ïh-qºÛ-Lm-Lôm-n¤Å-¾-zôh-GŸÝP-mÅ-Lm-GÅô-DP-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-z®ßGÅ-bïü Çkôh-DP.ü Z¾-FÛü fz-VÅü Vß-JÀôG-±P-º²ô¤Å-fôG-Lm-qô-¼P-ZÛh-mÅ-D-hP-Iôh-DôG-ÇeôP-q-ºEï¼-mÅ-xÛm-mühï-GÅ-ºfÞÅ-qºÛ-¸Å-Z¾-‚Å-bï-zÇkh-m-VôG-qºÛ-¼P-EÛ¤-¾Å-¿ËG-q-GP-¤P-z®ßGÅ-ÁÛP-ü zôh-yâG-ÇeôP-yG-¤P-qô¼-w-¤Å-ºIô-Iôm-Çoï-GTÛG-GbôP-¤Û-hGôÅ-q¼ü Çkôh-DP-hP-ü ¸Å-GôÅ-ÅôGÅ-ǨôÅ-¤ïh-D¼ü¼P-PôÅ-mÅ-¤-zÇÀâÅ-m-xÛ-mP-¼ÛG-GŸÝP-M-¤±ô-¿e-zÞ¼-¾ô-IPÅ-ZÛ-ÁÝ-®¤-¼ÛP-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-‚-MãºÛ-Gô-Ç+zÅ-z¸P-qô-„À-m-¤ïh-q-¤VÛÅü

zôh-¤Û-uÛ-‚ÛPÅ-M-G¼-HÛ-»Þ¾-Iâ-GP-ż-±ôP-zBôh-VôG-q-hP.ü

Page 276: 14 mount-everest-dingri

254

254 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

M-G¼-HÛ-¤Û-Åï¼-n¤Å-¾-»P-¤ïh-qºÛ-±ôP-F¾-VG-»P-ü GŸÛÅ-VGÅ-DG-¾-Çeôm-ºƒÅ-GP-»ôh-¼P-hzP-GÛÅ-¾ôPÅ-uôh-Mã-»ôhü hï-ºiºÛ-Mã-¤±m-hPôÅ-»ôh-º²¤-JÀÛP-±P-¤¼-¤fôP-VôÅ-ÅÞ-»ôh-qºÛ-fôG M-h¤¼-mÅ-¤Û-zhïm-μâm-yïP-WÛ-ljïh-GTÛG-‚ïh-q-ºhÛ-n¤Å-¾-zdGÅ-müP-±ô-zôh-¿YôPÅ-zÇem-ÆÛh-hP-zTÅ-q¼-Z¤Å-ZïÅ-¤Û-ÆÛh-q-GTÛG-zbP-qºÛ-hI-zô-»Ûm-mºP.ü ljÛP-Xï-Bï-hGôÅ-qºÛ-GmÅ-ÅÞ-Hã¼ü

hïºÛ-D¼-h-hÝP-Ȥ-zÁh-ºhÛ-¿e¼ü zôh-¿YôPÅ-M-h¤¼-mÅ-z®m-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bïü º²¤-JÀÛP-fôG-iÛ¾-zOGÅ-ÅÞ-zôh-¤Û-¤P-¾-zhï-BÛh-»ôh-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-hP.ü Vz-ÆÛh-fôG-mÅ-¤hÝm-¾¤-vôh-Mã-hï-»P-z®m-M¾-¼ÛP-¾ÞGÅ-ˆÛ-¤hÝm-¾¤-¿e¼-¤-»Ûm-q¼ü P-±ôÅ-»P-hG-qºÛ-Vz-ÆÛh-ˆÛ-¤hÝm-¾¤-vh-»ôh-TïÅ-μâm-¤ºÛ-Gž-zOGÅ-ºzº-ŸÛG-‚ïh-¤ÞÅ-¼ïhü

Page 277: 14 mount-everest-dingri

255

¤WâG-zÇk Ý -zºÛ-Gb¤-hP-fÞGÅ-Xï-Vï -ŸÝü 255

Zï¼-GZÛÅü

¤WâG-zÇkÝ-zºÛ-Gb¤-hP-fÞGÅ-Xï-Vï-ŸÝü

zhG-hP-zhG-GÛ-z®ôm-IôGÅ-n¤Å-¾ÞÅ-hzP-¤ïh-FÛ¤Å-¼¼-º±ßh-Ç+zÅ-Åï¤Å-ˆÛÅ-¼P-hzP-»Þ¾-¾-Zݾ-ŸÛP-ü M-h¤¼-ºhÛ-qºÛ-‚-uôh-º²¤-JÀÛP-¾-xÛ¼-zOGÅ-‚-fÞz-mü ŸïÅ-q-hï-¼P-hzP-»Þ¾-¾-Åï¤Å-ˆÛ-wô-Z-zˆï-qºÛ-hÝÅ-ÅÞ-¼ïhü Í-Èôü z®ôm-IôGÅ-n¤Å-hP-D-ƒ¾-mÅ-¾ô-Pô-zTß-yG-¸ÞP-hP-iâG-ºhÅ-¸Ûmü w¾-Vï-z-¼P-hzP-GÛ-ºƒÅ-zÞ-¤-ºfôz-q¼-ºhÅ-ÁÛP-ºGº-ŸÛG-h-Ç+zÅ-±ï-¾-DºÛ-m-zÞm-ºi-z¼-ljh-zTô¾-mÅ-¼P-hzP-GÛ-ºƒÅ-zÞ-m¤-ŸÛG-ºV¼-lj¤-MP-¿e-‚ïhü hÝÅ-hï-¼ÛP-z¼-ºhÅ-qôºÛ-D-Vï¤Å-hP-GÅôm-qôºÛ-¼ï-z-zhG-GÛ-Åï¤Å-mÅ-JÀôh-¤-¥ôP-zÅü hïºÛ-Vïhü ym-HÛÅ- 1959¾ô¼-M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-¼P-ZÛh-¾-mG-ZïÅ-ºhÛ-‚Å-ºhÛ-»Ûm-hqP-dGÅ-GP-

Page 278: 14 mount-everest-dingri

256

256 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

»P-¤ïh-q¼-ºWâ-z¸ÞP-GÛÅ- 1980 z¼-¤Û-¾ô-Zï¼-GTÛG-z®ôm-DP-¼Û¤-qºÛ-mP-z®m-Áïh-ˆÛ-zÇ+ݾ-uôh-hP.ü ¤m¼-GTôh-z=ïÅ-¿eôGÅ-ÅôGÅ-GhÝG-¯çz-±h-¾Å-ºhÅ-q-¼P-fôG-hPôÅ-¥ôP-hP-ü GŸm-¾-‚ãP-z-hPôÅ-¤fôP-GÛ-zMãh-¼Û¤-G®ô¼-ºDôh-ÅôGÅ-ym-BïÅ-¢P-GÛ-ÁïÅ-»ôm-h¤m-»P-ü ¼ï-zÇ+ݾ-zŸÛm-¤Eïm-¸z-hÛP-¼Û-¤±¤Å-¤hº-wÞm-±ôGÅ-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-hP-qô¼-¤-¸Ûm-ƒÛÅ-q-hP-ü PïÅ-hôm-‚-zbP-GÛ-n¾-º‚ô¼-z-Ç+Ý-GÁïGÅ-Lm-ºW¤-hq¾-zÇem-º²Ûm-m¤ü ¤±m-GŸm-Lm-¾¤-¼Û¤-qÅ-hG-zTôÅ-¤²h-hï-GŸm-HÛ-ż-hïz-z¸ôºÛ-¼ï-zÇ+ݾ-ŸÝÅ-bï-ºWôG-¼ÛP-ü

»ôP-»ôP-Í-TïºÛ-Vß-¾-»ôP-Mã-¤ïhü ü¤Û-»ôP-hÝG-£æ¾-mG-qôºÛ-D-½ÀPÅ-º‚ãP-ü üŸïÅ-q-¿e¼-¤-¸Ûm-n¤Å-zô¼-z½ÀGÅ-Áô¼ü

¾ô-ÁÅ-mÅ-»P-zB¼-uÛ-Åï¤Å-Tm-ºGº-»ÛÅ-zÇ+ݾ-¤-hP-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-h¤-zTº-ºhô¼-¤-fÞz-q¼ü ¼Þz-zÇkÝÅ-‚Å-qºÛ-ÁôG-zÞ-¿ËG-¼ô-n¤Å-ym-HÛ-±-zô-¤fÞ-ÇeôzÅ-ˆÛÅ-GÝÅ-hP-Gô-zÇkݼ-HÛÅ-¿Ëà-zOÛGÅ-q-hP-ü ym-HÛ-±-zô-n¤-IÔ-„Àô-z¸P-h¼-MÅ-mÅ-¼ï-Ç+ݾ-ŸÝÅ-q-¿e¼-n¤-M¾-IÔ-±P-GÛ-Ç+Ý-ŸzÅ-z²-ºyÛm-¾Å-ˆÛÅ-hG-zÁï¼-zbP-ŸÛP-ü z®ôm-IôGÅ-M¾-¯ï-z-¼ÛG-º²Ûm-VôÅ-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-D-Ç+ôP-im-zÇ+ݾ-hP-ü hï-zŸÛm-yP-¸Þ¼-h¼-MÅ-±ï-¼ÛP-mÅ-ˆP-¼ôGÅ-GP-¤P-GmP-z-hP.ü ym-HÛ-

Page 279: 14 mount-everest-dingri

257

¤WâG-zÇk Ý -zºÛ -Gb¤-hP-fÞGÅ-Xï -Vï -Ÿ Ýü 257

±-zô-Í-®$-ZÛ-¤-±ï-¼ÛP-mÅ-ºGô-mÅ-¤WâG-z¼-ŸÝ-hG-mm-bm-GmP-z-hP-ºƒï¾-±ÛG-hôm-Gž-zÁh-hP-ºw¼-¤-Çoôm-Åï¾-ÅôGÅü Z¤Å-ŸÛz-Û̂-¥ôP-z-Gž-Çeôm-GmP-z-zTÅ-GôP-Gž-n¤Å-¾-fÞGÅ-Xï-„À-¤ïh-Vï-ŸÝ-Mã-hP-ü hï-zŸÛm-¼P-ZÛh-zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-qôºÛ-h¤G-¤Û-ŸÛG-»Ûm-qÅ-h¤G-hôm-¾ô-MãÅ-ljÛP-zÇkÝÅ-ÁÛG-¼P-GÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-hP-VzÅ-TÛG-ºhôm-hGôÅ-G¾-Vï¼-¤fôP-zÅü ÇoP-ºWôG-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-uÛ- Þ̧¼-M¾- ï̄-z-n¤-M¾-hzP-ºhÝÅ-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-ƒÛÅ-GmP-¤²h-qºÛ-zôh-M¾-Dz-ˆÛ-Vz-ÆÛh-hP-ºƒï¾-zºÛ-h¤G-hôm-¾ô-MãÅü ŸïÅ-q¼-V-±P-Gž-ºDôh-¾-zdïm-h¤ÛGÅ-z;¼-¸Þ¼-hÝ-ƒÛ-zºÛ-hGôÅ-q-¤-¤fôP-z¼-ljÛP-zÇkÝÅ-ÇkïzÅ-zÁÝ-VôG-qºÛ-z;º-ºFô¾-ŸÝÅ-q-zŸÛmü DôP-mÅ-hHïÅ-zŸÛm-GmP-z-z°¾-z¼-»P-fÞGÅ-Xï-„À-¤ïh-Vï-ŸÝ-Mã-»Ûmü

¾ô-MãÅ-ºhÛ-ƒÛÅ-qºÛ-hGôÅ-q-G®ô-zô-mÛü M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-zôh-¾-z®m-º²â¾-‚Å-bï-M¾-zÇem-Vz-ÆÛh-¤Û-¼ÛGÅü ¼ÛG-GŸÝP.ü Dô¼-»ÞG-ÅôGÅ-Çoôh-zTßh-GP-żü GÅz-bà-¤ïh-qºÛ-HôP-GÝm-hP-VG-ÇKô-GP-ºi-ŸÛG-‚ãP-¤Ûm-xÛ-¼zÅ-q-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-Gž-dôGÅ-hP-ü M-h¤¼-HÛ-Pm-uôh-n¤Å-º²¤-JÀÛP-M¾-Dz-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-fÞGÅ-ÇoP-ºôP-zºÛ-¼ï-z-¤VÛÅü

P-±ôºÛ-M¾-Dz-ˆÛ-zhG-hzP-»ôPÅ-μôGÅ-P-±ôºÛ-¤Û-fôG-ºhÛ¼-

Page 280: 14 mount-everest-dingri

258

258 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

z®m-º²â¾-zºÛ-ºiï-¾G-bà-Áô¼-z-hP-ü P-±ôÅ-ˆP-¼P-ÆôG-h¤¼-qô-ºzïm-¾-z®ßGÅ-bï-ºfz-¯ôh-Çoï-¤P-hP-ü h;º-ÇkÝG-Ço-±ôGÅ-zMãh-ˆP-¤-ºôPÅ-¾ô-MãÅ-fôG-‚ãP-¼zÅ-n¤Å-Gž-Mã-®¤-¾Åü hI-¹-hP-¼P-TG-GÛ-ÇeôzÅ-ÁÝGÅ-hô-ljô¤-¤ïh-qºÛ-hzP-GÛÅ-¯-hôm-fôG-ºhÛ-»Ûm-HÛ-ºƒÅ-zÞ-ŸÛG-fôm-¤ïh-¾ü h-hÝP-hI-hP-¼P-xôGÅ-z¼-HÛ-ºfz-¯ôh-mÛ-hÝÅ-¼zÅ-ˆÛ-ºwï¾-MÅ-hP-zÇeàm-ZÛm-¼ï-zŸÛm-¤-ºhÅ-q¼-²-iG-Wï-Vï¼-ºIô-zŸÛm-»ôhü D-Vï-w-¾Þ-¾Åü

»ôh-ˆÛm-»ôh-ˆÛm-ºIô-GÛm-ºIô-GÛm-hÝüühôm-hÝ-»ôP-¤Û-±P-¤-ºIô-¤Û-¼ïhüü TïÅ-q-¿e¼-h-Ç+zÅ-P-

±ôºÛ-Ç+zÅ-ºfz-¯ôh-‚ïh-¤Û-w¾-Vï-z-ºhÅ-q-hP-ü Áݾ-hÝ-¿ËG-q-ºGº-»P-m-LÅ-mÝÅ-¤ïh-Á-ÇeG-»Ûm-qÅü ºWÛG-dïm-uÛ-¾ÞGÅ-¿e¼-P-±ôÅ-¤Û-¼zÅ-xÛ-¤¼-¼ï-zTô¾-‚-hGôÅ-q-hP-w-¤-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-¼P-GÛ-zÞ-yâG-ÇÀôz-IÔ¼-zbP-fÞz-q-®¤-HÛÅ-VôG-ÁïÅ-¤-¤²h-q¼ü w-¤ïÅ-ˆÛ-Mãm-º²Ûm-»P-hG-»ôP-Vïh-G®ô-ºGm-ºDÞ¼-hGôÅ-q-Gmh-ˆÛ-h¤-q-hP-üGŸôm-BïÅ-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-ˆP-P-hGÝ-¾ô-mÅ-h-z¼-P-±ôºÛ-¤Û-ÆôG-G-±ôh-zbP-z-hP-ü h-Ç+zÅ-GmÅ-Çkôh-‚-»Þ¾-Å-V-ºhÛ-¼P-GÛ-¤Ûm-qÅüljÛP-ÇeôzÅ-zBïh-hï-xÛ-mP-¼ÛG-GŸÝP-M-¤±ô-¿e-zÞ¼-¢P-z¯ôm-¿Ëôh-¤ïh-ˆÛÅ-¼P-¼ÛGÅ-ˆÛ-Pô-zô-º²Ûm-fzÅ-hP-ü VzÅ-TÛG-»¼-fôm-uÛ-±ôGÅ-

Page 281: 14 mount-everest-dingri

259

¤WâG-zÇk Ý -zºÛ -Gb¤-hP-fÞGÅ-Xï -Vï -Ÿ Ýü 259

ˆÛ-XïÅ-ÅÞ-ljïGÅ-bï-¼P-»Þ¾-¼P-¾G-bà-„ÀP-Vïh-ºzh-z¯ôm-‚ïh-hGôÅüzôh-ˆÛ-Gb¤-hqï¼üÇtP-GÁôPÅ-ÇeïP-GÛ-Vß-ym-hïü üy-qô¼-MãG-ˆP-G®P-qô-VGÅü ü»Ûh-fP-¤-Vh-Mãm-zBP-mü ü¤-ºIâz-‚-z-GTÛG-ˆP-¤ïhü üTïÅ-q-¿e¼ü¼P-Åô-ÅôÅ-ºzh-z¯ôm-Mãm-zÆÛP-m-ºƒÅ-zÞ-ºfôz-q-Ghôm-¤Û-¸ü hï-¤Ûm-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-fôG-¤Û-¼ÛGÅ-¾-HôP-GÝm-fïzÅ-m-¼P-hzP-ŸïÅ-q-vôÅ-ƒ¾-»Ûm-qÅ-hï-¾ÞGÅ-ˆÛÅ-G¸zÅ-º±¾ü

¤ºô-®ï-bàP-GÛÅ-¤ï-¤hº-¾-zÇeïm-mÅ-¤ï-¤hº-¤ïh-q-z¸ô-z-hP-ü h¤G-ºFâG-¾-zÇeïm-mÅ-h¤G-ºFâG-¤ïh-q-z¸ô-ŸïÅ-q-hP-üh-hÝP-Dô-qÅ-º²¤-JÀÛP-ºhÛ-uÛ-ljô¤-Vïm-qô¼-ºIô-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-zÁh-»ôh-q-GŸÛ-¯¼-z¸ÞP-Çeïü h-Ç+zÅ-º²¤-JÀÛP-GP-ż-M-h¤¼-HÛ-ºiï-¾G-¤-zljz-q-¤ïh-q-ºhÛ¼-Í-¼ÛÅ-G®ôÅ-iP-zhïm-¾-hGº-zºÛ-M¾-Dz-n¤Å-ˆÛÅ-fÞGÅ-ÇoP-GmP-zºÛ-¼ï-zºP-¤VÛÅü

¤WâG-ºhÛ¼ü zôh-ˆÛ-hGÝ-zTß-GÅÞ¤-¾Å-ºGݾ-±ôGÅ-qÅ-ym-HÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-hïz-z¸ô-Cæm-GmP-Mã-¤²h-q-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-ü ¯ô¤-OÛG-q-„Àô-z¸P-z=-ÁÛÅ- Û̂Å-ym-HÛ-¾ô-MãÅ- Û̂-hïz- Û̂-¤- Û̧m-»ôPÅ- Û̂-‚-z¼-ºGô-¤WâG-z¼-GÅÞ¤-hÝ-hG-zÁï¼-hP-ü »P-zB¼-zT¼-ºiÛü Gô-¼Û¤-zOÛGÅ-Mãü ±ÛG-GÛ-¢ô¼-zü D-Ç+ôP-zTÅ-V-±P-z-GmP-Çeï-¤f¼ü hP-qôü

Page 282: 14 mount-everest-dingri

260

260 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¼P-ZÛh-BïÅ-mÅ-h¤G-¾-¤-ŸÝGÅ-z¼-hP-ü GZÛÅ-qü h¤G-¤Û-‚ïh-Ç+zÅ-ˆÛ-¾ô-MãÅü GÅÞ¤-qü Ÿï-hGÝ-mÅ-P-hGÝ-z¼ü zŸÛ-qü P-hGÝ-mÅ-z®ôm-Iô¾-¤-fôz-z¼-zTÅ-hôm-±m-zŸÛ-Tm-ºhÛ->ÀôG-q-qô-n¤Å- Û̂-um-ÇS¼-zÁ¤Å-fÞz-q¼ü ±ôGÅ-q-hP-¯ô¤-OÛG-q-¸ÞP-¾-ljÛP-hzÞÅ-mÅ-fÞGÅ-Xï-„À-¤ïh-Vï-ŸÝ-z-hP-ü hï-zŸÛm-hïz-ˆÛ-Mz-ÁôG-ÅôGÅ-¤²ïÅ-hrôh-z¸ô-z;ôh-q-zôh-ˆÛ-hGÝ-zTß-GÅÞ¤-¾Å-ºGݾ-±ôGÅ-qºÛ-¸ÞP-iâP-zÅôh-m¤Å-±ï-hzP-¾GÅ-ÅÞ-»P-ljÛP-hzÞÅ-mÅ-fÞGÅ-Xï-Vï-ŸÝ-Mã-»Ûmü

ºhÛ-ƒÛÅ-hGï-zÅü zôh-¤ÛºÛ-¼P-hzP-zhïm-¤fº-¥ã¼-hÝ-Gž-mÅü &GôP-Å-BzÅ-¤Gôm-Vïm-qô-¤VôG-Ç+Ý-±ï-¤²h-ºyÛm-MÅ-ÁÛP-üGPÅ-¿YôPÅ-Iâ-º²Ûm-GZÛÅ-qºÛ-wô-ƒP-qô-b-¾ºÛ-GŸ¾-¤ïh-DP-GÛ-GÅï¼-FÛ¼-¤Pº-GÅô¾-hP-ü zhï-¿km-ŸÛP-GÛ-¤Gôm-qô-&;Ým-G¸ÛGÅ-qa-Vïm-¤VôG-væ¾-¼Ûm-qô-Vï-M-h¤¼-HÛ-z®ôm-hôP-mÅ-ZÛ-¤-vÛm-ƒ¾-¿e-zÞ¼-¼P-Ghm-z=-ÁÛÅ-¿Ëàm-qô¼-ŸzÅ-Åô¼-¥ã¼-z¼-ºDôh-hïü &M¾-¤VôG-»z-ÆÅ-n¤-GZÛÅ-GÅï¼-Ÿ¾-¿Ëm-hÝ-º²ô¤Å-q-hP.ü zÇem-º²Ûm-BïÅ-Vïm-¤fº-hG-Ç+Ý-D¤Å-z¸P-ŸÛP-zôh-ºzPÅ-GŸÛÅ-‚ïÅ-¤Z¤-º²ô¤Å-zhï-BÛh-μôGÅ-¿km-HÛ-hq¾-¾-¾ôPÅ-ÅÞ-uôh-qºÛ-Ç+¾-z¸P-¥ã¼-bà-ºV¼-zºÛ-Ǩôm-ºhÝm-hP-zTÅü

ym-Vz-ÆÛh-z®ôm-¸Þ¼-hÛP-¼Û-PG-hzP-GÛÅü

Page 283: 14 mount-everest-dingri

261

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 261

uÛ-¾ô- 2006 ¹- 12 ±ïÅ- 20 ¾ü

hP-qôü

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-qôºÛ-iG-qô-h¤G-GÛ-¾ô-MãÅü

;] ÇS-hÝÅ-h¤G-hqÞP-GÛ-n¤-qüVïÅ-ÇS-zºÛ-hÝÅ-ÅÞ-zôh-hÝ-¤Gô-¾-hqôm-hP.ü ºôG-¾-ÇkïºÛ-¤ÛP-

®¤-»P-¤ïhü ¤Û-±ô-zÇkïzÅ-bï-ºIâ¾-Çkôh-hP.ü lô-hP-h‚ãG-q-ºEï¼-mÅ-º²ÛP-¼ïÅ-‚ïh-q-¾Åü ¤±ôm-V-hP-h¤G-ÇkïºÛ-n¤-q-®¤-»P-¤ïh-q¼-ÇoP.ü uÛ-¾ôºÛ-ÇSôm-HÛ-¾ô- 127 ®¤-¾-M¾-qôºÛ-fôG-¤-GZº-FÛ-z®m-qô-‚ôm-q-mÅ-zôh-uÛºÛ-h¤G-¤Û-hP.ü hI-ºfz-ˆÛ-¾ô-MãÅ-ºhÛ-»Ûm-¤ïh-ˆP.ü ºIô-z-¤ÛºÛ-¼ÛG-¯¾-¼Û¤-zŸÛm-ºwï¾-MÅ-ÅÞ-xÛm-mÅ-¤hº-IÛ-¤hÝP-ÅôGÅ-¤±ôm-V-hP-ü Fz-©ôG-wÞz-GÅÞ¤-¾ÞÅ-ÆâP-hÝ-zïh-uôh-‚ïhü hqÞP-±ô-zÇkïzÅ-mÅ-wm-±ßm-ºfz-ºFâG-‚ïh-Æô¾-h¼-z¼-ÇoP.ü

uÛ-¾ô-zM-yG-zhÝm-qºÛ-mP-mÅ-¾ô-MãÅ-w¾-Vï¼-»ÛG-fôG-bà-Gž-

Page 284: 14 mount-everest-dingri

262

262 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

z¼-GŸÛGÅ-mü VôÅ-M¾-ÆôP-z®m-ÇK¤-qôºÛ-Ç+Ý-hÝÅ-ÅÞ-zôh-uÛºÛ-h¤G-hqÞP-ºhÝ-ºGôh-¤²h-q-mÛü hzÞ-¼Þ-Çeôh-Ǩh-hP.ü G»ô-¼Þ-Çeôh-Ǩhü¼Þ-¾G-Çeôh-Ǩhü G»Å-¼Þ-Çeôh-Ǩh-¸ï¼-z-hP.ü hï-hG-GÛ-¼Þ-ºiïm-h¤G-hqôm-Åô-ÅôºÛ-mP-GÅïÅ- Û̂-Çkï-±m-DG-¤P-zTÅ-zôh-¿YôPÅ-ÅÞ-h¤G-ºzô¼-ºzÞ¤-yG-ZÛ-ÁÝ-Ç+ô¼-‚ãP-¼zÅ-hP.ü hï-»P-h¤G-FÛ¤Å-z®m-ŸÛP-Gô-¤±ôm-z¸P.ü h¤G-ÁÝGÅ-hP-¯¾-ÇeôzÅ-ÁÛm-bà-Vïü ¼P-zŸÛm-HÛ-ÁÛ-z-¾-Pm-q-hP.ü G»Þ¾-hÝ-ÁÛ-z-¾-z¸P-qô¼- Û̄Å-bï-Pô-Åô-zÇeôhü Çk¼-¤-n¤Å-ˆÛ-¤Gô-¾-¶-Q-zbGÅ-mÅ-h¤º-ºzïzÅ-‚ïhü h¤G-zÇkÝ-±ï-¤hº-»ÛG-ÇSôm-hÝ-μôPÅü Hôm-q-mÛ-»Þ¾-mÅ-fôm-qºÛ-Ço¤-¼ÛGÅ-hP-qGÅ-¼ÛGÅ-z¸ô-Hôm-‚ïhü

G»Þ¾-¾-ºWâG-±ï-¾ÞÅ-ÆâP-wÞz-hP-Fz-©ôG-Hômü ¤±ôm-V-mÛ-¤hº-hP-IÛü ¤hÝP.ü Çe-IÛü ŸGÅ-q-¾-ÅôGÅ-ºEï¼ü ºIô-±ï-¼Þ-hqÞP-Åô-ÅôºÛ-d-h¤G-hP.ü @P-h¤G-Çkï-±m-ºiïÅ-¤ïh-fôG-h¤G-hqôm-Åô-ÅôÅ-¼Þ-Ço-FÛhü d-¾-¾ÞÅ-ÆâP-GhôP-Fz-G»ôGÅü ¼Þ-DG-Åô-ÅôºÛ-¼Þ-h¼-D-hôG-ºi-¤Ûm-hP.ü Çkôh-±ï-£-mG-wÞz-mÅ-ÇK¼-I¾-zOÛGÅü¼Þ-h¼-±ßz-±ßz-ºIô-Çkôh-‚ïh-Æô¾-»ôh-q¼-ÇoP.ü

hïP-ÅP-zôh-ˆÛ-½ÀâP-h¼-º²âGÅ-Æô¾-hï-»P-ÇS¼-HÛ-h¤G-¤ÛºÛ-¼Þ-h¼-hï-mÅ-ºwï¾-MÅ-‚ãP-ŸÛP.ü ºƒôG-q¼-¼Þ-z-hP.ü ¤±ôm-V¼-¼Þ-

Page 285: 14 mount-everest-dingri

263

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 263

¤±ôm-fôGÅ-q-»P-ÇS-hÝÅ-h¤G-GÛ-¼Þ-¤ÛP-¾Å-f-ljh-hï-¤Vïh-q-»Ûm-ºhÝGhïºÛ-hÝÅ-h¤G-MGÅ-mÛ-»Þ¾-Åô-ÅôºÛ-@P-ºIô-¾G-ºhôm-‚ïhü »Þ¾-

HÛ-hôm-hÝ-¾ÞÅ-ÆôG-ºhô¼-mÝÅ-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-¾ô-¿e¼-ZÛ-¹-Ç+¼-GÅÞ¤-hqP-hÝ-zŸG-mÅ-¤mº-Vïm-Bï¾-zºÛ-hÝÅ-¤Vôh-¼ï-‚ïhü Å-ºhÝÅ-Vï-ż-»Þ¾-ÆâP-Vïh-¤D¼-z®m-¼ï-z¯ÛGÅü ºhÛ-hG-zôh-Å-Çeôh-Ǩh-GP-ż-ŸÛG-Áݾ-¤P-qô-hïP-ÅP-»P-¤fôP-Mã-»ôhü hI-fôG-bà-hqÞP-¼Þz-¾G-£ï¾-Dô-mÅ-GÅôh-z¸ÞP-‚ïh-Æô¾-»ôh-q¼-ÇoP.ü h¤G-hqÞP-GÛ-n¤-q-hï-¿e-zÞ¼-uÛ-¾ô- 906 ®¤-z¼-GmÅ-ÁÛP.ü hï-mÅ-M¾-qô-JÀP-h¼-z=ôPÅ-XïÅ-zôh-mP-»Þ¾-Vïm-¼ï-¾-hqôm-Vïm-¼ïÅ-hzP-zNå¼-bï-¤Û-¾ô-ÅÞ¤-zM-¿ËG-®¤-hP.ü hï-XïÅ-Å-B-hP.ü wG-Iâü ¼Ûm-ÇtäPÅ-qü G®P-q-zTÅ-ˆÛ-¤Û-fôG-¤P-qô-zôh-XïºÛ-hzP-º²Ûm-Ç+zÅ-¤Pº-ºzPÅ-mÅ-h¤G-zÇ+ݾ-M-Vï-¤²h-zŸÛm-»ôh-ºhÝG

ÇS-hÝÅ-h¤G-hqÞP-GÛ-n¤-q-hqï¼-¤±ôm-mü ¿Ë-Å-Vô-ºyâ¾-Ǩôm-¾¤-Vïm-¤ôºÛ-d-q-n¤Å-ÇS¼-zôh-Xï-¼Û¤-qºÛ-Ç+Ý-hÝÅ-ÅÞ-G»Þ¾-HÛ-D-¾ô-q-±ôÅ-¼Þ-Ço-iPÅ-bï-G»Þ¾-¾-ºWâG-qºÛ-Æô¾-zŸÛmü Ǩôm-¾¤-Gbô¼-MG-TïÅ-‚-zºÛ-Gbô¼-Mz-bà-ÇS¼-Æô¾-d-h¤G-ºhÝ-ºGôh-¤²h-ÇePÅ-mÛü hP-fôG-»-Åô¼-FÛ-q-ŸïÅ-uÛ-Ez-GZÛÅ-zÇ+ô-º²âGÅ-ºôG-Çkï-hqôm-¤Û-iG-hP.ü¿Ë-DÞ¾-¾Å-DÞPÅ-DG ¤hº-hqôm-DG-zTÅ-¾-ºFÛ-zºÛ-d-h¤G-n¤Å-

Page 286: 14 mount-everest-dingri

264

264 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

hP.ü G¸Û¤-q-@P-h¤G-zTÅ-xÛÅ-Bôm-¤ïh-q-Gô-OÛG-‚Å-¤±¤Å-»-Åô¼-FÛ-qÅ-z;º-zNå¼-hÝü ¹- 1 ±ïÅ- 22 ZÛm->Àâ-Ç~äG-ÇK¼-OÛG-¾-»-Åô¼-zl-GbôP-qÅ-ÁÛP-‚P-G¼-z®ßGÅ-ż-Çkï-DG-Åô-ÅôºÛ-h¤G-Gݼ-hP-hôh-hP-¿km-qºÛ-ÇKô-mÅ-MG-q-¾Å-Å-ºzz-hGº-ºhï¤Å-Ÿm-Bå¼-ÅôGÅü ÇK¼-I¾-V-¤Û-ljô¤Å-q-m¤-»P-¤Û-VôG-TïÅ-hP.ü ±ïÅ-23 ZÛm-Gm¤-¿UGÅ-(¤ï-zôG)hP-qô-zMz-q-hP-ÇK¼-ż-º²ô¤Å-MãüGZÛÅ-qºÛ-fôG-GôÅ-VÅ-V-±P-Hôm-bï-I-OÛG-ÍP-zż-hGôÅ-qü

GÅÞ¤-qºÛ-fôG-zÇem-ÆâP-h¤¼-mG-GÛ-dïm-¤hÝP-n¤-GZÛÅ-h¾-ŸÛP-zXÛh-VGÅ-qºÛ-ÇKô-mÅ-¼Þ-Çoï¼-Ghm-ŸÝ-hP-ºƒï¾-‚P-xôGÅ-IÔ-zŸÛ-fP-hÝ-¯ÛÅ-zÁï¼-¾-zT¼-Mãü

±ïÅ- 25 ZÛm-hGôm-GÅïz-Á¼-hÝ-GŸÝP-GmÅ-mÅ-h¤G-Çeôm-HÛ-‚-hGº-GÅô¾-¼Å-°¾-Mã¼-±P-¤-hGº-ŸÛP-GÝÅ-qºÛ-ÇKô-mÅ-zT¼-Mãü

Ǩôm-¾¤-Gbô¼-MG-Vïm-¤ô-G»Þ¾-HÛ-D-¾ô-z-Åô-ÅôÅ-mP-GÅïÅ-Çkï-±m-ºiïÅ-¤ïh-ˆÛ-d-h¤G-n¤Å-Q¤-¸Û¾-GP-VïÅ-¼Þ-Vïm-zŸÛ-OÛG-GÛÅ-z¼-Ç+ô¼-zMãhü Gbô¼-Mz-bà-hÝÅ-fôG-¾-ºDï¾-z-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-ÅôGÅ-ÇS¼-Æô¾-HÛ-hÝÅ-Çeôm-ºhÛ-hP.ü hï-zŸÛm-zôh-Xï-¼Û¤-qºÛ-Ç+Ý-hÝÅ-ÅÞ-zôh-h¤G-uÛ-hP.ü ÇKôÅ-ÅÞ-h¤G-hqôm-±ôÅ-G»Þ¾-HÛ-D-¾ô-

Page 287: 14 mount-everest-dingri

265

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 265

uôh-ÇePÅ-hP.ü ¤hº-ºwïm-qü ¤hÝP-fÞP-zÇoÝm-qü ¼¾-IÛ-hP-hI-Çe-G»ÞGÅ-qü ¤ïºÛ-ºyâ¾-ºDô¼-ºwïm-qü ŸGÅ-q-hP-¿UGÅ-ˆã-ºwïm-qü »P-d-¤VôG-¥ã¼-qôÅ-zBôh-qºÛ-ÇeïP-mÅ-¤hº-IÛ-¤hÝP-ŸGÅ-hP.ü ¤ïºÛ-ºyâ¾-ºDô¼-Ç+ݾ-ÇePÅ-¾-ÅôGÅ-Nå-¯¾-n¤-q-Ço-±ôGÅ-hP.ü »P-MãG-Á¼-JÀôh-q-hP.ü Ç~ï-G-ºVP-zü lô-NôGÅ-ºhïGÅ-qü Vß-Vïm-¾-A¾-zü º²ïGÅ-qü ¤VôPÅ-z-¾-ÅôGÅ-¾ÞÅ-ˆÛ-¯¾-ÇeôzÅ-Çoï-¤P-ºIm-¢ôP-±h-¾ôm-‚ïh-q-hP.ü ¼P-ZÛh-ÆâP-Bôz-ˆÛ-Vïh-hÝ-Fz-©ôG-hP.ü wÞz-¾-ÅôGÅ-q-uôh-ÇePÅ-º²ÛPÅ-¼-hP-¤D¼-z®m-º²Ûm-ÇePÅ-ÅôGÅü zôh-¤ÛºÛ-G»Þ¾-HÛ-Nå-¯¾-¾-w-¼ô¾-qôÅ-hô-¹-h;º-z-‚ãP-¼zÅ-ÇoP-zºÛ-Æô¾-Mãm-¾Å-xÛÅ-ÅÞ-¿Ë-ż-μôP-Mz-d-MãGÅ-MP-ºwïm-hP.ü iâP-ºDô¼-¯¾-MãGÅü hï-zŸÛm-zôh-mP-μôP-hP.ü »Þ¾-Çkï-¤P-qô¼-ÇS¼-HÛ-h¤G-Æô¾-xÛÅ-ÅÞ-hÝÅ-Çeôm-‚-Æô¾-¤P-ŸÛG-ÇoP.ü

D] zôh-uÛºÛ-h¤G-hqÞP-ÇÀ¼-GÅô-¤²h-±ß¾üuÛ-¾ô- 1642 ¾ô¼-&M¾-hzP-¿S-q-Vïm-qôÅ-zôh-¿YôPÅ-»ôPÅ-

¾-hzP-zNå¼ü zôh-GŸÝP-hGº-¿km-wô-ƒP-qºÛ-Vz-ÆÛh-hzÞ-z½‰ïÅü Ç+zÅ-hï¼-M¾-Dz-bà-Gbm-Çkôh-zôh-Xï-VôÅ-M¾-n¤-qºÛ-Ç+Ý-hÝÅ- Û̂-¾ÞGÅ-zŸÛmü

Page 288: 14 mount-everest-dingri

266

266 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

OÛG-z;ôh-¤²h-qºÛ-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-G Û̧¤-q-xÛ-mP-z¼-GÅÞ¤-¾-h¤G-IPÅ- 3000Gż-º²âGÅ-fôG Å-¤±¤Å-»Þ¾-hÝÅ-G¾-Zïm-¾-GŸÛGÅ-qºÛ-Çeôh-¤Pº-¼ÛÅ-hP.ü hzÞÅ-G®P-¤hô-D¤Å-zTÅ-Å-GmÅ-zz-ºƒï¾-mÅ-hqÞP-h¤G-WÛ-hGôÅ-ºhÝ-ºGôh-¤²h-zŸÛm-»ôh-ºhÝG hï-XïÅ-&GôP-Å-Ç+Ý-yïP-zhÝm-q-Vïm-qôºÛ-Ç+Ý-hÝÅ-ÅÞ-¤Û-hzP-wô-¿ËºÛ-ÆÅ-ºHã¼-¤ïh-n¤-M¾-HÛÅ-Çkï-ÆÛh-¾ô-zŸÛ-GmP-Ç+zÅ-h¤G-ºFÛºÛ-dïm-GmÅ-Å-ŸÛP-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-ˆÛÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1750 zôh-¹- 4 ±ïÅ- 13¼ïÅ-G¸º-wÞ¼-zÞ-M¾-wÞ¼-HÛ-Iâz-¢ô¼-ÇeïP-ü M¾-ÆâP-zôh-h¤G-hPôÅ-GŸÛ-Gż-º²âGÅ-zBPÅ-q-mÛü hzÞÅ-DÞ¾-IÔ-zŸÛ-h¤G 1056 hP-G®P-DÞ¾-h¤G-IPÅ- 2112 zTÅ-¾-ÅôG-qôºÛ-h¤G-¾ÞGÅ-hP.üOÛG-z;ôh-WÛ-zŸÛm-z ô̧Å-bï-M¾-Dz-bà-Gbm-Z¼-¤²h-hï-ÇS¼-»ôh-G Û̧¤-q-ºGô-h¤G-hGôÅ-G¾-¤-‚ãP-z¼-DÞ-zÇkÝ-¤²hü

hï-Ç+zÅ-zôh-h¤G-GÛ-n¤-q-mÛ-Hôm-q-¼Þ-¤hôG-hP.ü ÇSô-ÅP-¾-¼Þ-¤hôG-ŸïÅ-ºzôh-Mãm-hïP-ÅP-»P-»ôhü hGÝm-D-qGÅ-ŸÐ-hP-h‚¼-D-xÛP-ŸÐü ;ô-¿Ë¤-mG-qô-zTÅ-¤hôG-hP-Hôm-ÇePÅ-GŸÛ-¤±ßPÅ-fôG¿kÛP-hqôm-¾-GmÅ-fôz-hÝP-bôG-hP.ü d-¾-ÍôG-Çkô¤ü zM-hqôm-»m-HÛ-Hôm-q-M-ǨäG-hP-h‚¼-ŸÐ-¿UGÅ-¤hºü hGÝm-ŸÐ-¶-ÇKÛ¼ü GmÅ-fôz-G»Þ-bôG-hP.ü d-¾-ljÛP-Çkô¤ü hï-¾Å-¤fô-z-¤hº-hqôm-¿e-zÞ¼-

Page 289: 14 mount-everest-dingri

267

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 267

GôÅ-Åï¼-¤hôG-hP.ü h‚¼-ŸÐ-¿UGÅ-¤hºü hGÝm-ŸÐ-¶-ÇKÛ¼ü ¿Ë¤-ºWº-Vïm-¤±¾-;ü ‚ã¼-bôG-hP.ü d-¾-Çkô¤-ZÛÅ-z¯ÛGÅ-ÅôGÅ-»ôh-q¼-ÇoP.ü ¤±ôm-V-mÛ-¤Û-¼ï¼-¤ïºÛ-ºyâ¾-ºDô¼-ŸïÅ-zôh-¤hº-¼ï-hP.üμÅ-VÅ-Ç+ïh-IÛü ºÞ¼-lô-¼ï-zTÅ-μôP-DÞ¾-mÅ-ºhôm-vôh-‚ïhü »ô-‚h-ºhÛ-¼ÛGÅ-Ço-±ôGÅ-zôh-Å-¤-Áô¼-z¼-μôP-ºGô-Åô-ÅôºÛ-Gô-¤²ôh-mP-hÝ-»ôh-¤ÞÅü wôGÅ-fôz-mÛ-xôGÅ-fôm-Ç+zÅ-GŸÝP-wôGÅ-°¾-¾¤-hP.ü GŸÛÅ-Ç+ô¼-hÝ-Çkôh-¼ÛP-GŸÝP-wôGÅ-¤ïhü GŸÛÅ-M¾-hÛP-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-h¤G-ÇK¼-DG-¾-wô-¿ËºÛ-G¸ÛGÅ-GÅôÅ-ºƒâ-hPÞ¾-wôGÅ-fôz-TïÅ-G®P-DÞ¾-GŸÛÅ-DG-°¾-zºÛ-D-º²Ûm-ÇKï¼-hGº-zŸÛ-hP.ü ¼¤-q-ÅôGÅ-mÅ-¾ô-¼ï-h¤G-¼ï¼-ºƒâ-D¾-zTß-GZÛÅ-¼ïºÛ-ºzz-»Þ¾-fP-hPÞ¾-zNå¼-vôh-¾ïm-ŸÝ-¤ÞÅ-hP.ü hzÞÅ-DÞ¾-h¤G-ÇK¼-¾-ºƒâ-wôGÅ-fôz-ˆÛü hôh-ºzz-¿Ë-Å-wôGÅ-DP-mÅ-ŸÝÅ-¾ïm-xÛÅ-ÅÞ-»P-‚-¤ÞÅü

G] zôh-h¤G-hÝÅ-¤fÞm-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-¤²h-±ß¾ü&GôP-Å-Ç+Ý-yïP-zTß-GÅÞ¤-q-Vïm-qôÅ-¾ÞGÅ-GZÛÅ-̂ Û-fÞGÅ-ºGm-

zŸïÅ-Ç+zÅ-ÇS¼-»ôh-zôh-h¤G-ÅÞ¤-ÇeôP-D¼ü Ç+Ý-ÆâP-h¤G-Gż-º²âGÅ-¤²h-q-hzÞÅ-G®P-GZÛÅ-hz¼-h¤G-dïm-z¸P-Ÿm-»ôh-hzP-hP.ü Å-GmÅ-Zï-ºHPÅ-zzÅ-ˆÛ-hzÞÅ-DÞ¾-h¤G-@P-GZÛÅ-mÅ-h¤G-¼ï-hP.ü

Page 290: 14 mount-everest-dingri

268

268 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

G®P-DÞ¾-h¤G-@P-zŸÛ-mÅ-h¤G-¼ï-zTÅ-IPÅ- 1000 ¿ËG-®¤-M¾-zºÛÇ+Ý-ÆâP-Vïh-Gbm-Z¼-hzÞÅ-G®P-¾ô-hÝÅ-¼ïÅ-¤ôÅ-¤²hü hï-mÅ-h¤G-ÇK¼-;-zÇe¼-OÛG-z;ôh-¤²h-q-mÛ-hzÞÅ-GZÛÅ-zŸÛºÛ-h¤G-¾-;-hP-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-hP-ü hzÞÅ-mP-hP-¿Ëô-D-DÞ¾-HÛ-μôP-DG-GÛ-h¤G-¾-D-hP-IÔ-zŸÛü G®P-DÞ¾-μôP-DG-GÛ-h¤G-¾-G-hP-GŸÛÅ-¯ïü M¾-¯ï-hP-hzP-ºhÝÅ-qh-GÅÞ¤-DÞ¾-h¤G-¾-P-hP-M¾-¯ïü Çeôh-DÞ¾-μôP-DG-GÛ-h¤G-¾-T-hP-hÛP-¼Ûü h-hÝP-hÝÅ-G¸Û¼-G¾-Zïm-¾-GŸÛGÅ-bï-@P-ºhôm-Åô-¾Å-hP.ü »Þ¾-h¤G-hP-„ÀP.ü Åï¼-h¤G-ÅôGÅ-M-Vï-zÇkÝ-zÇ+ݾ-HÛ-h¤G-ÇK¼-GôP-DG-GÛ-hqÞP-Çoôm-hÝ-°¾-zŸÛm-»ôh-ºhÝG

hï-®¤-¾-Gô-¤±ôm-mÛ-¤ï-NôGÅ-zôh-z¸ôÅ-Åï¼-¼Û¾-hPü IÛz-ºyâ¾-¤hº-¸ï¼-z-ÅôGÅ-¯ÛÅ-°¾ü hï-XïÅ-Vß-‚Û-M-h¤G-¤Gô-„ÀPÅ-Û̂-¾G-¤hº-zTß-zôG-hP.ü zMh-VP- ï̧¼-z-ÅôGÅ-¼ÛGÅ-¤Û-ºi-z-ºGº-ÁÅ-°¾-fôG-h¤G-¢ôP-hP.ü wôGÅ-fôz-¤fÞm-Aïm-zTÅ-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-ºzº-ŸÛG-¤²h-ºhÝG

uÛ-¾ô- 1914 ®¤-¾-h‚Ûm-GŸÝP-mÅ-ÇtäÅ-G¸ÛGÅ-¾G-¤hº-h‚Ûm-WÛ-D-¼ÛP-ºzô¼-Vï-°¾-º‚ô¼-HÛ-¤hô-D¤Å-DÞ¾-hÝ-G»Þ¾-¾Å-M¾-ÇezÅü ¾G-¤hº-ºhÛ-D-iô-qô-»Ûm-ŸïÅ-xÛÅ-ÅÞ-»P-JÀïP-Mãm-ºhÝG hï-¯-m-zôh-h¤G-n¤Å-hÝÅ-¤fÞm-h¤G-¯¾-hP.ü ¾ÞGÅ-Æô¾-»¼-MÅ-

Page 291: 14 mount-everest-dingri

269

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 269

z ô̧-hGôPÅ- Û̂-xÛ-ÅôG-h¤G-hGï-ŸÛG-zÇeïm-mÅ-¼Þ-ÅÞºÛ-h¤G-¾ÞGÅ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-hP.ü hï-XïÅ-ZÛ-ÈôP-GÛ-h¤G-hGï-ŸÛG-zÇeïm-mÅ-ZÛ-ÈôP-GÛ-h¤G-¾ÞGÅ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-vhü »P-hï-XïÅ-h¤G-ÇK¼-DG-mÅ-¾ô-GŸôm-hzP-¼ÛG-z=-z-hP.ü GŸÝP-ŸzÅ-ºGº-ÁÅ-ºhï¤Å-zOæzÅ-ˆÛ-M-G¼-DÞ¾-¾-h‚Ûm-WÛºÛ-h¤G-hôm-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-hÝ-ÇS-XïÅ-GbôP-GmP-¤²h-q-ÅôGÅü ¤fº-hôm-h‚Ûm-WÛºÛ-h¤G-¾ÞGÅ-fÞGÅ-¤ôÅ-Vï-ÁôÅ-‚ãP-Çeï-zôh-h¤G-GÛ-OÛG-z;ôh-uÛ-hP-ü h¤G- ï̄h- Û̂-Ç+h-zl-„Ë-hÝP-GÛ-GhPÅ-h‚PÅ-ÅôGÅ-h‚Ûm-¾ÞGÅ-ÅÞ-Gbm-ºzïzÅ-¤²hü

hï-mÅ-z Þ̧P-¼Å-Ço¤-Å-¤hôG-GÛ-Çeôh-Ǩh-hP.ü xÛP-ŸÐ-hP-qGÅ-ŸÐ-ºWâ¼-d-Z-h=ÛÅü ;ô-zºÛ-Ç+ïh-¼GÅ-zTÅ-h‚¼-hGÝm-zXï-¾ïm-HÛÅ-Hômü &GôP-Å-Vïm-qôºÛ-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-h¤G-GÛ-Mm-VÅ-GôP-ºi¼-ŸÐ-¤ô-fÞ-DôG-hP-G¸z-Hôm-Çeôh-Åï¼-Ǩh-ÇSôm-qôü GmÅ-¼Û¤-zTß-hqôm-¾-hqÞP-¸Þ¼-hÝ-wÛ-b-h¤¼-qô-GTÛG-hP.ü hGï-Lm-¾-GZÛÅü hGï-Vï¼-GÅÞ¤ü ¿kÛP-±z-¾-zŸÛ-zTÅ-hP-¿kÛP-hqôm-¾-ŸÐ-¤ô¼-lô-Xï-xïhü zM-hqôm-¾-GTÛG¼Þ-hqôm-¾-GTÛG-hP-xïhü ¤hº-hqôm-¾-lô-Xï-M-I¤ü hï-¾Å-¤fô-z¼-M-I¤-ÇeïP-¼Þ-h¼-D-vôh-zTÅ-¼Ûm-Vïm-hP-GZÛÅ-¾Å-Iâz-q-hP.üh¤G-‚ÛPÅ-¾-ŸÐ-¤ô¼-GhôP-¿S-D-vôh-ºôG-h¤G-IPÅ-ÍP-»ÛG-zTÅ-GmÅ-dGÅ-¼G-¾Å-z¸ôÅ-q-GŸÛ-¤±ßPÅ-°¾ü

Page 292: 14 mount-everest-dingri

270

270 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

h¤G-ÇK¼-DG-¾-GhôP-¿SÅ-zMm-qºÛ-M¾-h¼-hP.ü h¤G-Çkï-Åô-ÅôºÛ-¼Þ-h¼-±ôÅ-±ôGÅ-ºi-¤Ûm-¾-h¤G-dGÅ-lô-Xï-M-I¤-ºôG-h¤G-ÇK¼-Åô-ÅôºÛ-¤ÛP-z;ôh-hï-ºEï¼ü ¿Ë-źÛ-xÛ-¼ô¾-bà-h¤G-ÇK¼-Åô-Åô¼-ºzz-±ßGÅ-Çkôh-ÇK¼-¼ï-Gż-MG-¤²hü

hï-mÅ-ÇS¼-»ôh-zôh-h¤G-fôG-ÇÀ¼-»P-¼Û¤-zŸÛm-Gż-zÇ+ݾ-zBPÅ-q-mÛü ¢¼-hÐGÅ-;ôP-GÅÞ¤-DÞ¾-mÅ-V-hP-ºhôm-h¤G 526hzÞÅ-DÞ¾-mÅ-W-hP-ºhôm-h¤G 526 hP-Z-hP-ºhôm-h¤G 526b-hP-Åô-¾Å-h¤G 526 f-hP-zMh-Ço-h¤G 526 G®P-Çeôh-¿Ë-P¤-wÞm-GÅÞ¤-DÞ¾-mÅ-h-hP-ºhôm-h¤G 526 m-q-GZÛÅ-¾-IôP-iG-ºGô-h¤G 1800 q-w-¤-GÅÞ¤-¾-hzÞÅ-G®P-zTß-GZÛÅ-iâG-Ço- 1550 ®-hP-‚P-¼ÛGÅ-Çkï-zŸÛºÛ-»Þ¾-h¤G 800 ±-hP-Áô-Çe-¿Ëô-GÅÞ¤-»Þ¾-h¤G 1000 zTÅ-hP-ºhÛ-GÁ¤-;-zÇe¼-GP-»Ûm-¤Û-imü

h¤G-hÝÅ-²-iG-Ç+zÅ-Gż-zÇ+ݾ-zBPÅ-zŸÛm-qü Èô¼-±ô-Åô-hGݺÛ-»Þ¾-h¤G-hP-ü ¼-h;¼-ÅôG-GÅÞ¤ü Ǩ¼-ƒG-Gô-GÅÞ¤-HÛ-»Þ¾-h¤G-hP-ü hP-„ÀP-h¤G-hP.ü Åï¼-h¤G-ÇeôP-yG-¤P-qô-zÇkÝ-zÇ+ݾ-¤²h-zŸÛm-»ôh-q-hP.ü h¤G-ÇK¼-DG-GÛ-h¤G-¾ÞGÅ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-hP-h¤G-FÛ¤Å-ŸÝ-ÇKô-z;º-¯-ÇS-XïÅ-Ez-ºIï¤Å-hP.ü Bï¾-

Page 293: 14 mount-everest-dingri

271

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 271

ºiïm-ÅôGÅ-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-¤²hüuÛ-¾ô- 1922 ®¤-¾-h¤G-ÇK¼-½‰ÛP-DÞPÅ-DG-¾-¾G-¤hº-

h‚Ûm-WÛ-D-fÞP-hP.ü ¾ÞºÞ-Åï-JËmü ¤Û-ÁÛm-JËmü Gm¤-NôGÅ-=âºÞ-»Ûm-TÛ-¤ô-=ô¼-hP.ü fï-¼Û-ÍÛm-TÛ-¤Û-=ô¼ü FÛÅ-NôGÅ-=m-wô¼-Åï-hP.ü Ⱥô-²Û-=-zTÅ-¼Û¤-zŸÛm-¯ÛÅ-°¾-HÛ-¾G-¤hº-D-¼ÛP-n¤Å-xÛ¼-zÇkÝ-¤²h-hï-μôP-zMãh-Å-DÞ¾-»Þ¾-h¤G-¾-hGôÅ-G¾-¤±¤Å-°¾-VôG-bà-¯ÛÅ-vôh-¤²hü

GŸÝP-¤hºÛ-¼ÛGÅ-h¤G-¤Û-hP.ü GŸÝP-hôm-xôGÅ-Bôh-‚ïh-qô-ÅôGÅ-¾-h¤ÛGÅ-zž-¯ÛÅ-°¾-»ôh-q-¤-GbôGÅ-ÅÞÅ-ˆP-Zô-±ôP-ºEï¼-f¾-¤Û-VôG-qºÛ-h¤-iG-ÁÝGÅ-Vïm-z¸ôÅü hï-XïÅ-GŸÝP-mÅ-IÔ-zŸÛ-JÀôG-ºyâ¾-DP-hÝ-zôh-z¸ôÅ-¾G-¤hº-h‚Ûm-fÞP-¾-¤hïºÞ-zTÅ-z¸ô-ºhôm-¤²h-hï-h¤G-ÇK¼-¼ï-¸ÞP-¾-ºIï¤Å-vôh-GmP-»P-h‚Ûm-fÞP-Pô-¤-WÛ-zŸÛm-DÞPÅ-fÞz-¤ïh-Ç+hü

hï-XïÅ-M¾- ï̄-¿UP-¾ô¼-h‚Ûm-hGï-Vïh-zÇeïm-HÛÅ-yïP-¼ÛP-ºWÛGÅ-¤ïh-ÅÞ¤-¯ïm-hzP-qô-ÅôGÅ-GŸÝP-ŸzÅ-hP.ü h¤G-¤Û-¾ô-GŸôm-¤P-qô¼-¤ï-NôGÅ-¿YÛh-»P-hP.ü ¤ï-ÁÛm-JËm-¿YÛh-»P-Ço-±ôGÅü h¤G-¾ÞGÅ-ÅôGÅ-;ï-^¼-Vïh-º²âGÅ- Û̂-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-fôm-q-n¤Å-¼Û¤-zŸÛm-h¤G-ÇK¼-Åô-ÅôºÛ-h¤G-hGï-Gô-ºwï¼-VGÅü hï-zŸÛm-¿Ë-Å-Ǩm-¯ÛÅ-DP-hÝ-

Page 294: 14 mount-everest-dingri

272

272 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

h¤G-ÇK¼-¼ï-mÅ-Ǩm-ÇÀôz-¤Û-¿S-iâG-VG-¤ïh-zbP-ºfÞÅ-fôG h¤G-ÇK¼-xôGÅ-fôm-Ç+zÅ-¿UGÅ-qô-¼Û-mÅ-Ǩm-Vï-ŸÛG-¾-zM-hqôm-HÛ-Gô-wôGÅ-°¾-bï-GbôP-Æô¾-ÅôGÅ-hP.ü Ç+zÅ-hïºÛ-h¤G-uÛ-¤WâG-¤-¾ÞP-Á¼-Ç+zÅü &M¾-z-GôP-¤Å-Vß-vï-Ÿ¾-Gh¤Å-z;º-ÇÀôz-°¾-zºÛ-hGôPÅ-hôm-zôh-h¤G-n¤Å-hÝÅ-¤fÞm-h¤G-¯¾-ÇeôzÅ-ÁÝGÅ-ÅôGÅü ÇKô-GP-Å-mÅ-w-¼ô¾-GŸm-Çkï-Gmôm-PïÅ-»¼-MÅ-GbôP-hGôÅ-ŸïÅ-Gž-z-hPôÅ-ÅÞ-¾G-¾ïm-zÇe¼-z-hïP-ÅP-»P-JÀïP-Mãm-»ôhü

hqï¼-mü ̄ -zºÛ-h¤G-¾ÞGÅ-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-Ço-±ôGÅ-¤²h-q-Çô̈Å-TÛ| f-m-zTß-ÁôG-¼ï¼-Çkôh-Gݼ-hP-fz-¸PÅ-xÛ-mP.ü Ç~äh-qü BôGÅüGPÅ-Áï¾-±ßm-VÅ-Gż-ºhôm- Û̄Å-°¾-GmP-z-xÛÅ-ÅÞ-»P-zïh-uôh-ŸÝ-Mã-»ôh-q-ÅôGÅ-ŸÛ-iG-Vz-ÆÛh-hrÛh-̂ Û-hq¾-»ôm-zŸh-q-¿e¼-ºwï¾-MÅ-»ôP-¤ÞÅ-ˆP-ü zôh-ºzPÅ-uÛ-¤fÞm-zÅôh-m¤Å-h¤m-qÅ-&GôP-Å-¤VôG-mÅ-Vß-vï-¾ô-¤-ºôPÅ-ÇSôm-G Û̧GÅ- Û̂-Ÿ¾-Gh¤Å-z;º-ÇÀôz-°¾-bïü Vß-‚-¾ô¼-hGôPÅ-q-ŸÛ-h‚ÛPÅ-ÅÞ-¤m¾-XïÅü GŸÝP-mÅ-h¤G-ÇK¼ü ;-D-G-P.üT-V-W-Zü b-f-h-mü zTÅ-mÅ-;-hP-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-¤-GbôGÅ-¤hô-D¤Å-‚P-Á¼-Å-ÆâP-hÝ-¾ô-¤P-zŸG-fôG q-mÅ-h¤G-ÇK¼-WÛ-»ôh-GŸÝP-ºzPÅ-P¾-Iôm-VßP-Eh-»Ûm-hzP-GÛÅ-hGôÅ-G¾-¤-‚ãP-z¼-¼P-EÛ¤-hÝ-GŸÛÅ-zÇ+ô¼-xÛ¼-ÇÀôG-¤²h-fôG ¾ÞP-Á¼-»P-ü hzÞ-ZïÅ-wôG-XïÅ-h¤G-hôm-¾-hÝÅ-

Page 295: 14 mount-everest-dingri

273

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 273

¤fÞm-fÞGÅ-ÇoP-ÁÝGÅ-Vï-¤²h-¤Û-¤ïh-q¼-Ç+zÅ-ÁÛG-Z¤Å-GÝh-hÝ-Hã¼-q-¤-¸hü M¾-zºÛ-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-;-hP-h¤G-ÇK¼-®¤-¤-GbôGÅ-h¤G-ÇK¼-‚ÛPÅ-Û̂-h¤G-VÅ-ˆP-zôh-VÅ-ÅÞ-zNå¼ü

¾ô-ÁÅ-XïÅ-¤hô-D¤Å-‚P-Á¼-Å-¤±¤Å-DG-mÅ-M-h¤¼-HÛ-Zïm-D-Gż-hÝ-‚ãP-ÇezÅü GŸÝP-mÅ-ÇÀ¼-»P-h¤G-zÇ+ݾ-¤²h-hï-h¤G-hôm-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-hP.ü ¤fÞm-Aïm-Ço-±ôGÅ-Bï¾-ºiïm-ÅôGÅ-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-ºGº-ŸÛG-¤²hü

Gô-¤±ôm-Gż-q-„ËÛ-¼Ûm-JËm-hP.ü Åz-¤Û-ÁÛm-JËm-zTÅ-Gż-ºhôm-¯ÛÅ-°¾-fôG IÔ-zŸÛ-h¤G-ÇK¼-ÅôGÅ-mÅ-¾ô-GŸôm-ºhï¤Å-OæG-GÛÅ-½ÀâP-ºyÛm-ÇÀôz-ºGô-±ßGÅü M-Ez-bà-ÇKï¼-HÛ-¾G-¤hº-¼ÛP-fÞP-±P-¤¼-¾G-ºEï¼-ŸÝÅ-fôz-»ôh-m-¤-GbôGÅ-ºEï¼-f¾-¤Û-VôG-qºÛ-¾ÞGÅ-z¸P-zbôhü 1948 ®¤-¾-M¾-Dz-ˆÛ-z;º-ºƒï¾-h¤G-ÇK¼-DG-GÛ-uÛ¼-zbP-h¤G-¯ïh-hP.ü ¾ÞÅ-¢ôP-¤ï-¤hº-MG-¢ôP.ü Gô-¤±ôm-hP-£GÅ-ºIô-¢ôP-Ço-±ôGÅ-¯ï-IÛ-hI¼-ÇoÝm-ÇePÅ-ˆÛ-¤hÝP-¯ïh-Ço-±ôGÅü ¤²h-ÇKôºÛ-¼Þ-OÛG ÆâP-‚-zXï-ÇePÅü hqÞP-±ôGÅ-hP-ü ¤hº-ÁôG zM-ÁôG-ÅôGÅ-¼Þ-ºiïm-zBôh-OÛG-‚-±ß¾-zTÅ- Û̂-Ç+h-zl-Ço-D-zM-yG-ºGº-ÁÅ-IôP-iG-¤hº-hqôm-¤D¼-Ço-hP.ü ;-Áôh-ÆÅü Í-¤hô-hGï-ºhÝm-

Page 296: 14 mount-everest-dingri

274

274 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

VôÅ-ºwï¾ü ;-hP-¼Þ-hqôm-ºyÛm-¾Å-¤Û-ºHã¼ü ¿kÛP-;-HÛm-Lôh-Bïh-zTÅ- Û̂-¿Ëm-±ôGÅ-mÅ-ŸÛz-hrh-¤²h-hï-h‚Ûm-Ç+h-mÅ-zôh-Ç+h-hÝ-zNå¼ü‚ïh-ÇePÅ-±P-¤¼-zNå¼-zTôÅ-¤ïh-q¼-h‚Ûm-¾ÞGÅ-¿e¼-Gbm-¾-wz-qºÛ-hïz-ŸÛG-ºIï¤Å-Çtï¾-GmP.ü ºhÛ-DôPÅ-mÅ-Ç+h-hP-‚ïh-ÇePÅ-¼ï-¸ÞP-hïP-ÅP-zôh-ˆÛ-ÇÀôz-IÔ-hP-¼Þ-OÛG-ÅôGÅ-¾-zïh-uôh-‚ïh-q-ºhÛ-»Ûmü

h-hÝP-h‚ÛPÅ-Gż-hP-hqôm-ż-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-zÇeôh-h‚PÅ-hP.üM¾-JÀâ-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-¤²h-q-hïP-ÅP-GÛ-GhPÅ-h‚PÅ-ºhÛ-¼P-¼ïhü hï-zŸÛm-xG-m-qj¨ô-hP.ü ¼z-h;¼-;ï-¾-Á-»ÛÅ-¤±ôm-qºÛ-h¤G-GŸÅ-Ço-±ôGÅ-hïP-ÅP-zôh- Û̂-¹ôÅ-G¼-ÅôGÅ-¾-GbôP-zŸÛm-»ôh-q-ºhÛ-±ô-¼ïhü

ÇS¼-»ôh-h‚Ûm-¾ÞGÅ-ˆÛ-h¤G-VÅ-ˆP-M¾-zºÛ-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-h¤G-ÇK¼-¤-GbôGÅ-hï-‚ÛPÅ-zôh-VÅ-GŸÛ-¤±ßPÅ-ÅÞ-zNå¼-zXïÅ-GmP-zºÛ-zôh-h¤G-GÛ-VÅ-GôÅ-mÛ-Çeôh-fÞP-h;¼-qôº¤ü Çeôh-Ǩh-Å-¤hôG-GP-¼ÞP-ÇeïP-¼Å-Ço¤-Å-¤hôG-GÛ-Hôm-q-GôP-F-Tm-¾-mP-¤fºÛ-NÛ¼-wm-¼Å-h¤¼-zbP-z-hP.ü ;ô-¿Ë¤-¤¤ü ºWâ¼-d-»Þ-¼ÛP-»Þ-fÞP-GP-¼ÞP-hP.ühGÝm-D-qGÅ-¿km-¼Å-Å-¤hôG-GÛ-h¤G-ŸÐ-hP.ü h‚¼-D-xÛP-ŸÐ-zTÅ-¤hôG-hP-Hôm-ÇePÅ-GTÛG-¿e¼-‚ïhü h¤G-dGÅ-hP-GmÅ-dGÅ-h¤G-h¼-ÅôGÅ-ÇSôm-¤-¿e¼-GmÅü

¿UGÅ-ÇeG-uÛ-¾ô- 1949 ¾ô¼-h¤G-FÛ¤Å-hôm-±m-Åô-¿S-ŸïÅ-

Page 297: 14 mount-everest-dingri

275

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-qôºÛ-iG-qô-h¤G-GÛ-¾ô-MãÅü 275

»ôPÅ-ÅÞ-IGÅ-q-hï-M-Ez-»ôPÅ-¾-°¾-ºIï¤Å-¤²h-q-ÅôGÅü iG-qôºÛ-V-mÅ-»Þ¾-hÝÅ-GmÅ-Ç+zÅ-hP-º±¤Å-qºÛ-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-¤²h-¤ÞÅ-»Ûm-»P.ü zhï-BÛh-ˆÛ-GÁïh-¤-M-h¤¼-mÅ-zôh-¾-z®m-º²â¾-‚Å-bï-ŸÛ-iG-Vz-ÆÛh-uÛ-hP.ü zôh-»¼-MÅ-ÅÞ-ºIô-zºÛ-¤hÝm-¾¤-z;G-Bôm-ÆÛh-m-¤Û-IGÅ-q-‚ãP-ºhÝG

P] h¤G-GÛ-ºFÛ-DÞPÅ-Gż-º²âGÅüzôh-h¤G-ºFÛ-DÞPÅ-mÛ-GŸÝP-ÇKï¼-VôÅ-zTÅ-DôPÅ-dïm-»ôh-@P-

ºhôm-GZÛÅ-hP.ü dïm-¤ïh-Åô-¾Å-hP.ü IôP-iG-»Þ¾-h¤G-hP-„ÀPÅ-h¤G-zTÅ-»Ûmü hï-»P-ºFÛ-DÞPÅ-Åô-ÅôºÛ-h¤G-ºIô-¾ô-GŸôm-hzP-¼ÛG-z=-ŸÛP.ü ÁïÅ-»ôm-¿km-qºÛ-¤Û-Pô-Gô-ºwï¼-wÞGÅ-zdm-Á-ÇeG-hGôÅ-z;º-»ôh-ˆP.ü ºFÛ-DÞPÅ-¤Û-V-¤ïh-qºÛ-¼ÛGÅ-mÅ-¤Û-ºIô-Gô-ºwï¼-JÀ-JÀÅ-ˆÛ-Gż-º²âGÅ-ŸÝ-Æô¾-ºhÝG »Þ¾-h¤G-hP.ü hP-„ÀPÅ-»Ûm-mü Å-GmÅ-h¤G-μôP-¸ÞP-ºƒï¾-mÅ-fh-;¼-z;ôh-º²âGÅ-‚-¾¤-hP.ü hï-¤Ûm-dïm-»ôh-n¤Å-ˆÛ-¤Û-ºIô-zôh-¿YôPÅ-h¤G-uÛ-DP-hÝ-Gô-ºwï¼-»ôh-¤Ûm-¤Û-zzÅ-um-¾¤-zÇe¼-bï-¾G-fïºÞ-°¾-XïÅ-h¤G-DôPÅ-±ßh-ŸÝGÅ-‚ïh-q-¼ïhü h¤G-½‰ÛP-m-LÅ-hP-¾ÞÅ-GTôP.ü mh-ºhÅ-hI-Áô¼-»Þ¾-‚ô¾ü xÛ¼-ºzÞhü hGôPÅ-ŸÝ-ÅôGÅ-ˆÛ-±z-Gż-ÁôG-¿Ëï-h¤G-

Page 298: 14 mount-everest-dingri

276

276 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ÇK¼-Åô-ÅôÅ-h¤G-uÛ-DP-hÝ-wÞ¾-¤±¤Åü Å-GmÅ-μôP-G®ô¼-z;ôh-M-°¾-bï-GôP-zŸÛm-Gż-ºWâG-ŸÝ-¾¤-hP.ü »Þ¾-‚ô¾-hP.ü ZïÅ-Tm-xÛ¼-ºzÞh-ÅôP-±ï-JÀ-ºFÛÅ-ˆP-MÅ-hrh-hGôPÅ-hôm-ZïÅ-Vh-Oæz-ºzÞ¾-hGôÅ-fôG ‚ô¾-qô-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-fÞz-m-ZïÅ-z;ôh-hP-ºƒï¾-xÛ¼-ºzÞh-‚-¾¤ü h¤G-DôPÅ-ÅÞ-zB¼-ºWâG-‚-ºôÅ-ÅôGÅ-ŸÝ-zzÅ-¾-GŸÛGÅ-bï-fG-GTôh-‚-¾¤-ºhÝG »Þ¾-h¤G-hPü hP-„ÀPÅ-h¤G-ÅôGÅ-Å-DÞ¾-ºGm-º²Ûm-qÅ-z;º-hGôPÅ-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-zÇkÝ-zÇ+ݾ-OÛG-º²âGÅ-hP.ü h¤G-¢ôP-z¸ô-vôh-Vïh-h¤G-uÛ-DP-GÛÅ-h¤G-ÇK¼-½‰ÛP-DÞPÅ-DG-mÅ-h¤G-hGï-zÇ+ô-º²âGÅ-¤²h-zŸÛm-»ôh-ºhÝG h¤G-@P-¼ïºÛ-Å-dïm-M-Eôm-GÅÞ¤-±h-ºƒÛP-Ç+ô¼-hÝ-‚Å-m-Íï-;¼-zTß-®¤-hP-ºƒôG-¼ÛGÅ-n¤Å-¾-¼Û->ÀâP-GÛ-¯Ó-Å-Vß-¼ÛÅ-M-Vï-¸Þ¼-°¾-»ôh-ÇezÅü w¾-Vï¼-mÅ-h¤G-dïm-º²Ûm-Mã¼-hGº-ºhï¤Å-‚ïh-qÅ-¤-±hü hÝÅ-zhï-Ÿôh-ºWGÅ-Ç+zÅ-GŸÝP-mÅ-Gbm-ºWGÅ-h¤G-¤Û-®¤-¾Å-hï-‚ÛPÅ-DÞ-zÇkÝ-¤²h-Ç+zÅü JÀ-ºFÛ-h¤G-dïm-º²Ûm-Mã¼-hï-zÅ-hGº-ºhï¤Å-ŸÝ-º±PÅ-‚ïh-q-hP.ü Ç+zÅ-¼ï¼-hÝÅ-G¸Û¼-HÛÅ-Aïm-qÅ-h¤G-@P-¼ï-mÅ-h¤G-ºw¼-GZÛÅ-GÅÞ¤-º²âGÅ-GbôP-hGôÅ-Ç+zÅ-ºFÛ-DÞPÅ-¤Û-V-Ÿm-qÅ-h¤G-dïm-º²Ûm-Mã¼-¤-hGº-z-‚ïh-¤Û-»P-

Page 299: 14 mount-everest-dingri

277

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-qôºÛ-iG-qô-h¤G-GÛ-¾ô-MãÅü 277

»ôhü »P-JÀ-ºFÛ-zÞh-ÇeôP-ÅôP-z-hP.ü ¤Û-V-¤ïh-¼ÛGÅ-ˆÛ-Å-dïm-ÇKï¼-VôÅ-DG-mÅ-ŸÝ-º²Ûm-HÛÅ-h¤G-ºIô-ºDô¼-G»ôG-¤Û-Åï¼-¾-JÀ-hôh-Çoï-Åï¾-¼ï-vh-hï-ºGï¾-h=Û-‚ïh-¤Dm-»P-»ôhü

zôh-ˆÛ-ÇS¼-Æô¾-h¤G-¤Û-º²âGÅ-ÇePÅ-ºhÛ-hzP-¾-GŸÛGÅ-m-hïºÛ-±ï-»Þ¾-hÝÅ-hP-¤fÞm-qºÛ-hGï-¤±m-ŸÛG-‚ãP-ºhÝG-q-¾Åü hïP-hÝÅ-Gż-¾ÞGÅ-hP-f-hh-hÝ-ÅôP-ÇezÅ-GŸÝP-GmÅ-mÅ-h¤G-¾ÞGÅ-GP-TÛ-¼Û¤-zŸÛm-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-¤²h-ºV¼-»ôh-ˆP.ü M-h¤¼-HÛÅ-z®m-º²â¾-hïÅ-Aïm-ºV¼-GŸÛ-±P-¤-ºyô-Tm-hÝ-¾ÞÅü

T] h¤G-ÇK¼-uÛºÛ-OÛG-z;ôhü1] ¤hº-DG-GTÛG-GÛ-OÛG-Æô¾-ºhÛ-¿e¼ü ¼Þ-ÁôG-GZÛÅ-

hP.ü ¼Þ-ÁôG-¼ï¼-zM-ÁôG-GZÛÅü zM-ÁôG-¼ï¼-¿kÛP-ÁôG-¿S.ü ¿kÛP-ÁôG-¼ï¼-zTß-ÁôG-GZÛÅ-hP-¾Å-¼ÛGÅ-DôPÅ-ÅÞ-¤Û-¿S-zTÅ-»ôhü

2] ¿kÛP-ÁôG-¼ï¼-¿kÛP-zÇom-¤Û-IPÅ- 26 hP-zM-ÁôG-¼ï¼-zM-hqôm-zÇom-¤Û-IPÅ- 131 ¼Þ-ÁôG-¼ï¼-¼Þ-hqôm-zÇom-¤Û-IPÅ-263 ¤hº-DG-¼ï¼-¤hº-hqôm-zÇom-¤Û-IPÅ- 527 zTÅ-»ôhü

3] ¤ÛP-GŸÝP-ºGôh-Æô¾-mÛü hqï¼-m-ÍP- 301 Çkôh-hP-¿kÛP-GÅÞ¤-h¤G-ÇeG-¯ï-G»Þ-M¾-ŸïÅ-ºzôhü ÍP-mÛ-h¤G-IPÅ-

Page 300: 14 mount-everest-dingri

278

278 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

hP-Çkôh-mÛ-¼Þ-¤ÛP.ü ¿kÛP-mÛ-¿kÛP-DG h¤G-mÛ-GmÅ-¤ÛP.ü ÇeG-¯ï-mÛ-ºFÛ-DÞPÅü G»Þ¾-M¾-mÛ-¼P-¤ÛP-zTÅ-¼ïhü

V] Gô-¤±ôm-fôz-°¾üxÛÅ-ÅÞ-¼Þ-ÁôG-GTÛG-GÛ-Gô-¤±ôm-ºhÛ-¿e¼ü ¼Þ-zM-¿kÛP-GÅÞ¤-

¤Û-IPÅ-zTß-GÅÞ¤-¾-Åz-¤Û-ÁÛm-JËm- 13 ¿kÛP-±z-hP-hGï-Vï-zTß-¾-¾G-¤hº- 10 zTß-hôm-ZÛ-ÁÝ-¾-¾G-¤hº- 20 zTÅ-hP.ü h¤ÛGÅ-zž-¾G-¤hº-OÛG-z;ôh-GÁ¤-Gžü1] „ËÛ-¼Ûm-JËm-hGï-h¤G-ZÛ-Áݼ-„ËÛ-¼Ûm-JËm- 10 hP-¾G-¤hº- 102] ¤Û-ÁÛm-JËm-ºƒÛP-zºÛ-hGï-h¤G-¿S-¾-¤Û-ÁÛm-JËm- 1 hP-¾G- ¤hº- 13] fÛ-¼Û-ÍÛm-TÛ-¤ô-=ô¼-hGï-h¤G-zTß-¾-¤ô-=ô¼- 2 hP-Åz-¤Û- ÁÛm-JËm- 2 ¾G-¤hº- 24] =âºÞ-ÍÛm-TÛ-¤ô-=ô¼-hGï-h¤G-zTô-zMh-¾-¤ô-=ô¼- 6 hP- ¾G-¤hº- 65] „Ë-hÝP-hGï-h¤G-ZÛ-ÁÝ-¾-¾G-¤hº- 206] hˆÛ¾-ÇK¼-DôPÅ-¾Å-¼ÛGÅ-¤Û-IPÅ-zTß-¾-¾G-¤hº- 10GôP-Gž-DG-Eôm-zÇkô¤Å-Åz-¤Û-ÁÛm-JËm- 16 hP-¾G-¤hº-

Page 301: 14 mount-everest-dingri

279

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 279

216 „ËÛ-¼Ûm-JËm- 10 ¤Û-ÁÛm-JËm- 1 h¤G-ÇK¼-ºGº-¼ïºÛ-mP-¾ÞºÞ-ÅÛ-JËm-¼ï-GZÛÅ-¸Þ¼-hÝ-»ôhü

fÛ-¼Û-ÍÛm-TÛ-¤ô-=ô¼- 2 =âºÞ-ÍÛm-TÛ-¤ô-=ô¼- 6 zTÅ-Åô-Åô¼-¤hïºÞ-¼P-ºEï¼-hP.ü D-Çoôm-μÅ-¤hïºÞ-¤Dô-VÅ-®G-®ÛG-ÅôGÅ-¸Þ¼-hÝ-¯ÛÅ-°¾-»ôh-q-hP.ü FïÅ-NôG-Vï-zºÛ-Çkï-±m-OÛG-z;ôh-¾ôGÅ-ÅÞ-»ôh-q-zTÅ-n¤Å-xÛÅ-ÅÞ-¼Þ-ÁôG-GTÛG-¾-Gô-¤±ôm-fôz-°¾-ŸÛG-¼ïhü

W] uÛ¼-zbP-¾¤-Æô¾üh¤G-ÇK¼-hzÞÅ-G®P-DÞ¾-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-¾Å-hôm-Vï-y-zôh-¿YôPÅ-

h¤G-uÛ-DP-hP.ü ¤hô-D¤Å-DÞ¾-Å-ÆâP-hÝ-Çkôh-¼ÛP-¤hô-uÛ¼-hGôPÅ-Ç+ô¼-z;º-ºFô¾-ŸÝü hï-¤Ûm-¾Å-hôm-VßP-®G-h¤G-ÇK¼-¼P-DôPÅ-Gô-¼Û¤-º²ô¾-¤ïh-»¼-ŸÝ-¤¼-GmP-‚-¾¤-hP.ü uÛ¼-zbP-Gô-¼Û¤-HÛ-GÝÅ-¾ÞGÅ-hP-zÇÀz-q-Lm-GŸôm-HÛ-z¯Û-z;ݼ-OÛG-Æô¾-Z¤Å-¤ïh-¾¤-‚P-»ôh-q-hP.ü GŸm-»P-h¤G-FÛ¤Å-¾Å-ºG¾-zºÛ-VP-¼G-ºfÞP-z-hP.ü Mm-z®ßGÅ-Áô-Ç~G-¯ïh-G»ïP.ü GP-‚ãP-ºE¤Å-Zݾü ¯ôh-º²ÛPÅü zÞh-¤ïh-¾-z®m-G»ï¤ü hPôÅ-qôºÛ-¼ÛGÅ-@Ý-ºyôG-GÛÅ-¤±ôm-ºG¾-ZïÅ-¼ÛGÅ-¤Û-VôG

PïÅ-¤ïh-ºGô-h¤G-ÅÞ-¼ÞP-mÅ-ºG¾-V¼-Hã¼-±ï-ZïÅ-zzÅ-¾-

Page 302: 14 mount-everest-dingri

280

280 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

GŸÛGÅ-qºÛ-ZïÅ-ºGï¾-fG-GTôh-‚ïhü hï-»P-hÝÅ-G¸Û¼-Ç+zÅ-ZïÅ-º²ô¾-Hã¼-m-uÛ¼-zbP-¾Å-ZïÅ-Vh-mm-®¤-GTôhü »P-ÆôG-Aïm-zbP-z-hP.ü ºG¾-V-Vï-¼ÛGÅ-mÛ-uÛ-Ez-GôP-¼Û¤-¾-ljm-ŸÝÅ-z;º-fôm-¿e¼-ŸÝ-z-¾Åü hzP-±h-zL¾-zºÛ-¼P-º±¤-fG-GTôh-‚-Æô¾-¤ïhü hï-¤Ûm-uÛ¼-zbP-iG-qôºÛ-¾Å-hôm-hP.ü ŸÛ-zºÛ-¾Å-¾ÞGÅ-¾ôGÅ-ÅÞ-»Ûm-ÇezÅ-Z-ZÝP-¤Z¤-zÆïÅ-GP-‚ãP-fï-GbôGÅ-¤Û-VôG-ˆP.ü ŸÛ-zºÛ-¤Û-hP-ŸÝ-½‰ôG-¹ôÅ-H¼-¼ÛGÅ-ŸÛ-iG-ºGô-G®ô-¸ÞP-ºƒï¾-mÅ-dôGÅ-ŸÛz-ˆÛÅ-fG-GTôh-‚ïh-Æô¾-»ôh-q-¾Åü »Þ¾-mP-h¤G-¤ÛÅ-FÛ¤Å-ºG¾-‚ãP-ÆÛh-m-iG-qôºÛ-ºGô-ºhô¤Å-¾-¯ÛÅ-vôh-h¤ü Gô-zÇkݼ-¤ïh-q¼-Å-GmÅ-FÛ¤Å-ºGôÅ-fG-GTôh-¤Û-VôG n¤-;Ým-z;º-ºƒï¾-h¤G-ºFâG-Ç+ô¼-hP.ü ºGô-FÛh-‚ïh-ÇePÅü¤P-±ôGÅ-ˆÛ-¾¤-xôGÅü Vz-ÆÛh-Ç+ô¼-ˆÛ-Gmh-hômü ºGô-h¤G-GÛ-z¼-hP.ü h¤G-¤P-z¼ü h¤G-ÇK¼-wm-±ßm-HÛ-¤fÞm-ºƒï¾ü ŸÛ-iG-z¼-HÛ-GmÅ-xôGÅü ÇÀôz-GÅô-¢ôP-zl¼ü M¾-GTïÅ-hI-Lô¾ü VôÅ-¾-hh-ºhÝmü ŸÛz-ºWâG-zdG-hrhü ¼P-ÇeôzÅ-¼P-Çtï¾ü ºIô-Çkôh-Ç+ô¼-ÅôGÅ-GŸÝP-hP-GôP-¼Û¤-mÅ-z;º-°¾-¾Å-ºV¼-wïzÅ-hGôPÅ-ºG¾-¤ïh-ŸÝ-Mã-uÛ¼-zbP-GÛ-¾Å-ºGm-ŸÛG-¼ïhü

Page 303: 14 mount-everest-dingri

281

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 281

Z] ÇÀôz-¢ôP-hP-GmÅ-ºw¼üh¤G-¤Û-Gż-ºWâG- Û̧m-ZÛh-¹-ÁÅ-¼ÛP-h¤G-¯¾-Ço-±ôGÅ-hP.ü

¾ÞÅ-¢ôP.ü Gô-¤±ôm-zÁÛG-OÛG-hP.ü ¤ÛP-ÅôGÅ-¢ôP-vôh-MãGÅ-¾ïm-¾¤-®¤-¸Ûm-ºy¾-±-¢ôP-‚ïhü hï-mÅ-hI-ºfz-Ç+ô¼-hP.ü zl-hÝP-GÛ-±ÛG-hôm-OÛG-Æô¾-ÅôGÅ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-±¼-m-Å-ÇeôP-hÝ-zl-hÝP-¾-zÇeïm-mÅ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-‚ïh-q-ÅôGÅ-ÇSôm-ºIôºÛ-h¤G-¢ôP-±¼-z-¼ïhü

n¤-;Ým-¼P-GÛ-ºWôm-fP-hP-„Àô-¤ôÅ-¾-z¿eÅ-bï-¾Å-¼ÛGÅ-GP-¼ÞP-mP-ºhï¤Å-OæG-GÛÅ-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-vh-hï-»¼-fôm-hP.ü ÁïÅ-±h-¾-GŸÛGÅ-qºÛ-¾Å-hôm-fôG-¼Û¤-º²ïGÅ-VôG-q-»Ûmü ¼P-ZÛh-FÛ¤Å-¤fÞm-GŸÝP-zŤ-Vï-z-hP.ü ÁïÅ-±hü hI-fôG-‚Å-XïÅ-zTÅ-¾ïGÅ-IÅ-¾-GmÅ-ºw¼-¼¤ü h¤G-ÇK¼-zMãh-GôP-¼Û¤-ºV¼-ºzÞ¾-xG-dGÅ-°¾-fôm-¿e¼-ŸÝ-z-¾Åü GŸÝP-¾ÞGÅ-hzP-±h-¾Å-¿kôG-qºÛ-GmÅ-¤ÛP-GP-‚ãP-vôh-f¾-m¤-»P-¤Û-VôG hqï¼-mü hGï-zTß-GmÅ-¼Û¤-h¤º-IÅ-¤hº-hqôm-mÅ-fh-h;¼-zÇ+ô-zŸG-VôG-ˆP.ü wôGÅ-ºw¼-hP.ü hGï-¿kÛP-Vï-IÅ-h¤G-uÛ-DP-mÅ-°¾-zü zM-hqôm-»m-h¤G-uÛ-DP-mÅ-z;º-ÁG-zMãh-ºV¼-ºzÞ¾-xG-dGÅ-°¾-¾¤-»ôhü

Page 304: 14 mount-everest-dingri

282

282 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

hï-»P-xôGÅ-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-Gż-¤W¾-ljm-fôG-mÅ-ŸÝü ¿Ë-DÞ¾-hÝ-»Ûm-±ï-z;º-zNå¼-wïzÅ-¤±¤Å-zŸïÅ-zl-ljm-ÅïP-wÞ¾-bï-¯ï-ºGG-hP.ü z;º-ÁG h¤G-uÛ-DP.ü h¤G-ÇK¼-zTÅ-q¼-Gż-¤W¾-ŸÝ-z-¼ïhü h¤G-hˆãÅ-mÅ-Ç+Å-fïG-¼Û¤-º²ïGÅ-ˆÛÅ-¼Þ-hqôm-¾Å-±m-z¼-GmÅ-¼Û¤-°¾-Æô¾-hP.ü hï-¾Å-¤fô-zºÛ-¤hº-hqôm-»m-HÛ-hqôm-¼ÛGÅ-Vï-DG-GŸÝP-ŸzÅ-fh-;¼-zÇ+ô-zŸG-GmP-zŸÛm-ºhÝG

b] Gô-μÅ-hP-Hôm-VÅ-wôGÅ-fôz-zTÅ-°¾-Æô¾üGô-¤±ôm-μÅ-¤hïºÞ-Gż-ŸÝ-hP-zXïÅ-ºIâ¾-ŸÝ-hGôÅ-¼ÛGÅ-

h¤G-ÇK¼-mÅ-GôP-¼Û¤-uÛ-Ez-DP-hÝ-ljm-ÁôG-wÞ¾-¤±¤Å-°¾-fôm-»ôP-¾¤-hP.ü ¾ô-¼ïºÛ-Hôm-VÅ-ˆP-GôP-zŸÛm-ŸÝ-zMãh- Û̂-¾¤-Åôm-hP.ü ¾G-ºEï¼-ÇtäÅ-±h-ÅôGÅ-fôm-XïÅ-Hôm-zÇkÝ-Pô-¾Å-zBôh-hï-μôP-G®ô-zMãh-ºFÛ-DÞPÅ-mÅ-zÇkÝ-¾ïm-HÛÅ-h¤G-GôÅ-ÇtäÅ-±h-GŸÛ¼-z¸ÞP-z¸ô-¾¤-ºhÝG

»P-Ç+zÅ-¼ï¼-zŤ-¤ïh-ºGº-ŸÛG-mÅ-Hôm-zÇkݺÛ-GhôP-¤ÛP-ºhôGÅ-Ço-±ôGÅ-ˆÛ-zÞ-¾ôm-z¸ôÅ-bï-mP-P¤ü JÀ-zhG-¾-h=Û-z-ÅôGÅ-JÀ-ºFÛ¼-ºw¼-¿kz-»ôP-GÛ-»ôh-ºhÝG xÛÅ-ÅÞ-Hôm-zÇkÝ-Å-GmÅ-ÅÞ-Vïh-zBôh-¤-hGôÅ-q¼-GŸÝP-mÅ-ÇtäÅ-G Û̧GÅ- Û̂-°¾-Gbm-ºDï¾-±ß¾-ÅôGÅ-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-¤²h-¤ÞÅü hï-zŸÛm-wôGÅ-fôz-ˆP-»Þ¾-hÝÅ-¾-

Page 305: 14 mount-everest-dingri

283

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 283

GŸÛGÅ-bï-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-¤²h-¤ÞÅ-ˆP-h¤G-@P-Å-dïm-»ôP-ºzz-wÞhüz¼-¾¤-Ç+¾-z¸P-»Þ¾-fP-hÝ-GmÅ-q-h¤G-¼ï¼-¹-¼ï-ºƒâ-D¾-GZÛÅ-hP.üW-¼Û¾-GTÛG ¤¼-ZG-hôü ±-zÞ¾-Á-ÁÛP-hôh-ÆP. 12 JÀ-wôGÅ-ÆP-30 Gô-¼Û¤-HÛ-JÀ-ºw¼-zTÅ-°¾-Æô¾-ºhÝG

zTß-hqôm-¾-ºƒâ-D¾- 2 hP-wôGÅ-hPÞ¾-ÆP- 42 hGï-Lm-¾-ºƒâ-D¾- 2 hPÞ¾-ÆP- 45 hGï-Vï-hP-¿kÛP-hqôm-¾-ºƒâ-D¾- 4 hP-hPÞ¾-ÆP- 60 zM-hqôm-¾-ºƒâ-D¾- 6 hPÞ¾-ÆP-90 ¼Þ-hqôm-¾-ºƒâ-D¾- 10 hP-hPÞ¾-ÆP- 120 zTÅ-¯-wôGÅ-hP-¤hº-hqôm-hP-hï-¾Å-¤fô-z¼-h¤ÛGÅ-zž-¸Þ¼-wôGÅ-hP.ü ŸzÅ-zdm-zTÅ-°¾-zŸÛm-»ôh-ºhÝG wôGÅ-hÝÅ-Åô-Åô¼-GôP-¿e¼-ŸÝ-zMãh-ˆÛ-¾G-ºEï¼-fôm-¤±¤Å-wôGÅ-DP-mÅ-fh-ŸÝ-VôG-ˆP.ü Ç+zÅ-¼ï¼-Å-DÞ¾-ºƒâ-wôGÅ-ºhÛ-ºi-ŸÛG-GÛ-¯ÛÅ-ÇeïP-mÅ-¾ïm-ºfÞÅ-ŸïÅ-¾¤-Åôm-hP-¾G-ºEï¼-°¾-bïü wôGÅ-ŸÝ-Pô-¾Å-Å-GmÅ-ÅÞ-Vïh-zBôh-ºhôm-ºiïm-HÛ-ÇÀ¼-¿kÛP-ÁôG-G¤-zM-ÁôG-Åô-Åô¼-±h-Çoôh-Z¤Å-¤ïh-vôh-¾ïm-‚-zŸÛm-ºhÝG

f] xôGÅ-fôm-hP-Bï¾-ºiïmüz;º-hGôPÅ-xôGÅ-fôm-Ç+zÅ-ŸÝ-ÇKôºÛ-z;º-M-hP.ü ¾¤-xôGÅ-

Page 306: 14 mount-everest-dingri

284

284 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¾¤-»ÛG-zTÅ-h¤G-uÛ-DP-zMãh-°¾-¤±¤Å-²-iG-hP.ü º‚ô¼-hÝÅ-¾-GŸÛGÅ-qÅ-fh-zBôh-ŸÝü hï-»P-GŸÝP-ºzPÅ-P¾-Iôm-VßP-Vïh-h¤G-ÇK¼-¾ô-GÅÞ¤-mÅ-zhÝm-z¼-zXï-¾ïm-¤ïh-q¼-xôGÅ-Çkôh-‚ïhü GŸÛÅ-¤Û-fÞG-ºyh-hÝ-ºDô¼-hGôPÅ-ŸÝ-ºFô¾-VôG-ˆP.ü Å-Dh-ºHPÅ-zÅ-¾¤-ºGô¼-Vï-ż-ºDô¼-hGôPÅ-ŸÝ-¤Û-ZÝP-ÁÅ-¾Å-¤Û-»ôP.ü hïÅ-Aïm-ŸÛ-ºW¤-Ç+zÅ-ºGô-h¤G-zM-V-ZÛ-ÁÝ-Ç+ô¼-HÛ-z¸º-yâG-¤Z¤-FÛh-ˆÛÅ-GŸÛÅ-ÇK¼-hÝ-ºWôG-Æô¾-hP.ü GŸÛÅ-ÇK¼-mÅ-GŸÝP-hôm-xôGÅ-zBôh-Ç+zÅ-mP-¤Û-GTÛG-ˆP-FÛh-f¾-¤Û-VôG-q¼-ÉG-fôm-ŸÝ-z-¼ïhü

Bï¾-ºiïm-mÛ-GŸÝP-GÛ- Û̄Å-°¾-d-iï¾-¾-Gô-¤±ôm-TÛ-¼ÛGÅ-ºGï¾-hGôÅ-wÞhü hï-‚ÛPÅ-¾¤-ºDï¾-¤Û-Åï¼-mÅ-y¾-dïm-XïÅ-ºFÛºÛ-Bï¾-ºiïm-hGôÅ-q-uÛ-μÅ-ºGï¾-D¾-hP.ü MÅ-hrh-hGôPÅ-hôm-hGï-zTß-h¤G-zTÅ-q¼-hôÅ-D¾-xïh-¼ï-hP.ü hGï-Vï¼-hôÅ-D¾- 1 hP-zŸôm-q- 1¿kÛP-hqôm-¾-hôÅ-D¾- 2 hP-zŸôm-q- 2 zM-hqôm-¾-hôÅ-D¾- 3hP-zŸôm-q- 3 ¼Þ-hqôm-¾-hô-D¾- 5 hP-zŸôm-q- 4 ¤hº-hqôm-¾-hôÅ-D¾- 10 hP-zŸôm-q- 7 hï-¾Å-¤fô-z¼-hGôÅ-G¾-¾-GŸÛGÅ-q-°¾-Æô¾-zTÅ-hP.ü hï-zŸÛm-Çoï-¾ïm-Çkôh-fz-ÅôGÅ-fôz-fP-¾¤-»ÛG-mP-Gž-¾¤-ºDï¾-μôP-G®ô¼-º‚ô¼-hÝÅ-hP-ü d-D¾-IPÅ-ºzô¼-ÇSôm-±ßh-zl-»ÛG-zbP-Çeï-ÇSôm-zIôh-q-hP-μôP-G®ô-Lm-ºfÞÅ-¸ÞP-

Page 307: 14 mount-everest-dingri

285

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-qôºÛ -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 285

vï¾-mÅ-I-zOÛGÅ-hP.ü GŸÝP-Iôm-hrh-zh¾-vôh-¾ïm-fôG-¹-ÅôP-¾-ºGôh-ºzÞ¾-ÅôGÅ-ºGm-G®P-ŸÝü

»P-¼ï-¸ÞP-P¤ü ±ô-DG-VßP-¼ÛGÅ-n¤-;Ým-ºIÛ¤-ºIâ¾-Ç+zÅ-Å-GmÅ-Åô-ÅôÅ-¾¤-Åôm-hGôPÅ-hôm-d-D¾-Ç+zÅ-¢¼-GbôP-Æô¾-zTÅ-hP.ü »P-zŤ-¤ïh-ºGº-ÁÅ-mÅ-h¤G-hôÅ-hrh-¤±¤Å-¾Å-zL¾-zºÛ-¿YÛh-Vï-z¸ôÅ-bï-¤Û-Åï¼-fôG-ºw¼-zlzÅ-»ôP-GÛ-»ôhü hï-Ç+zÅ-zôh-hÝ-ºDô¼-ºIâ¾-hP-½ÀâP-ºyÛm-GŸm-HÛ-¤fÞm-Aïm-ÅôGÅ-hïP-hÝÅ-¿e¼-¤ïh-Aïmü h¤G-hÝÅ-²-iG-Vï-zÅ-m¤-ZÛm-Áh-zBôh-hGôÅ-±ï-d-D¾-HÛ-½‰ôG-P¾-ŸÛ-iG-GZÛÅ-;¼-»ôhü

ºôm-ˆP-z¼-Ç+zÅ-¾¤-»ÛG-bà-d-D¾-DÞ-zÇkÝ-GmP-Æô¾-ÅôGÅ-GŸÝP-mÅ-Bï¾-ºiïm-F¾-dïm-¾-¼ï-¤-hGôÅ-qºÛ-¾ïGÅ-zTôÅ-¤Þ-¤fÞh-¤²h-¤ÞÅü ¾¤-ºIâ¾-ºhÛ-»P-hÝÅ-zhï-Ÿôh-ºWGÅ-Ç+zÅ-zM-ÁôG-Åô-ÅôºÛ-mP-¤Û-¤Z¤-D¾-Mz-¤Û-ºIô-wÞhü hï-‚ÛPÅ-@P-h¤G-Gô-μÅ-¤Z¤-¢¼-Çkï-±m-ºiïÅ-¤ïh-hP.ü G®ô-º²Ûm-HÛ-VÛzÅ-I¾-hÝ-d-h¤G-hP-ÇKï¼-d-Tm-WÛ-»ôh-ºIôü hï-»P-M¾-h¼-¼¤-¼Þ-h¼-ºEï¼-zºÛ-XïÅ-ÅÞ-d-I¾-zOÛGÅü hÝÅ-hÝÅ-ÅÞ-hÝP-hP-Ç~äz-V-¾-ÅôGÅ-GbôP-zŸÛm-º‚ô¼-fôm-Ç+zÅ-uÛ-Ez-¾-Vï-zÇeôh- Û̂-¤ï-zôG-MG-q-hP.ü h Û̂¾-ÇK¼-(Ç~-V-)GbôP-z| d-I¾-zOÛGÅ-bï-GÝÅ-zbàh-ŸÝü ¾¤-Dï¾-hGôm-IôP-mÅ-hGº-

Page 308: 14 mount-everest-dingri

286

286 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

zÅÞºÛ-zÅP-hÝh-hP-hÝP-hP-Q-¼ô¾-¾-ÅôGÅ-ºzÞh-h=ô¾-‚ïhü¤Û-¤P-IôP-±ôGÅ-Vï-ż-GŸôm-mÝ-wô-¤ô-¤P-qôÅ-G¸z-¤Vô¼-Mm-

VÅ-¾ïGÅ-q¼-vÅ-bï-hGº-zÅÞ-‚ïhü Ç+zÅ-¼ï-hˆÛ¾-ÇK¼-hÝ-»P-ƒô-GŸÅ-ºFz-q-hP.ü GmÅ-»ôh-ŸÛ-iG-¤Û-Ço-wm-±ßm-¤Iôm-ºzôh-¤±¤Å-dGÅ-vôh-¼ïÅ-ÅôGÅ-¤²º-z¯ïºÛ-n¤-qÅ-DïPÅ-q-¿e-zÞ-»ôP.ü ºôm-ˆP-hÝÅ-G¸Û¼-Ç+zÅ-GôP-¼Û¤-mÅ-ºIô-Çkôh-z;ôh-OÛG-WÛ-fôm-¿e¼-Á¼-zBôh-Zïm-hôGÅ-GP-VïÅ-ºIô-z-¾Åü hÝÅ-zhï-Ç+zÅ-zŸÛm-Z¤Å-ÇoP-¿Ëôh-¤hôG-m¤-»P-¤Û-VôG

h] xôGÅ-Çkôh-ˆÛ-¾Å-ºGm-hP-GmÅ-ÇePÅüxôGÅ-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-GŸÛÅ-ÇK¼-VGÅ-»Þ¾-hï¼-z;º-z;ôh-DP-¿eï-

z-‚ïhü hï-G¼-¤hº-hqôm-hP.ü ¼Þ-zM-¼ï-¸ÞP-Mãm-¾Å-ÅÞ-Çkôhü hqï¼-m-Ǩ¼-D¤Å-ÇK¼-fôG-hP.ü EãP-qô-Åï¼-±ü Èô¼-£-Vïm-¿e-zÞºÛ-GŸÝP-DP-»ôh-m-hP.ü hï-¤Ûm-GŸÝP-Gݼ-wÞz-Çeï-ÇK¼-I¾-zOÛGÅ-mÅ-GŸÛÅ-ÇK¼-zTºü ¼Þ-ÁôG-hP.ü zM-ÁôG-¿kÛP-ÁôG-Åô-Åô¼-»Þ¾-hÝÅ-¾-GŸÛGÅ-qºÛ-¾Å-ºGm-vh-hï-xôGÅ-¤±¤Å-ÅÞ-º²âGÅ-GbôP-¼ï-¤ôÅ-‚ïhü

uÛ¼-zbP-¾Å-ºDÞ¼-mÛ-¼P-Å-ÆâP-fzÅ-hP.ü z;º-Fô¾-¤ïh-qºÛ-xÛ-¤Û-ºGôG-ÆâP.ü hI-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-Åô-¿e-Zݾ-ŸÛzü Å-Ç+ô¼ü

Page 309: 14 mount-everest-dingri

287

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅ 287

@Ým-WG-Zïm-ÆâP-ÅôGÅ-ŸÝü ‚P-uÛºÛ-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-zM-ÁôG-¼ïü I-hÛP-GZÛÅ-qô-¼ï-¤ôÅ-hP.ü Iô-uÛºÛ-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-GŸÛÅ-M¾-GZÛÅ-mÅ-¼ïÅ-¤ôÅ-Mãm-º²âGÅ-ŸÝü

Å-GmÅ-HÛ-GmÅ-±ß¾-uÛ-hP.ü GŸm-»P-GŸÝP-hôm-Ço-±ôGÅ-d-zP-GP-¥ã¼-zMãh-GôP-¼Û¤-¾-»¼-ŸÝ-¤¼-GmP-‚ïhü m¤-;Ým-hÝÅ-zhï-Ç+zÅ-h¤G-¯ïh-hP.ü ¾ÞÅ-¢ôP-ZÛm-¿e¼-ºV¼-Tm-fôG h¤ÛGÅ-zž-h¤G-hôm-ÇÀôz-¢ôP-vôh-ºôÅ-GôP-¼Û¤-mÅ-¾Å-ºV¼-GP-fôm-¿e¼-ŸÝ| hÝP-qÅ-ZÛm-¿e¼-hÝP-¢ôP-hP.ü ÇS-hGôP-zŸïPÅ-G¸Û¤-hÝP-hP.üÆâP-‚-zXï-zºÛ-hÝP.ü Oô¾-hÝP.ü ¿Ëm-hÝP.ü Ç+ôP-hÝP-ü ZÛ-¤-zŸÝh-qºÛ-GÝÅ-zbàh-ˆÛ-hÝP-ÅôGÅ-hÝÅ-fôG-bà-GbôP.ü hGôP-iô-¯ÛÅ-zÁï¼-hP.üOô¾-ºhôm-VG-¤ïh-fôG-¹-¼ïºÛ-Z-ÇeôP-zMh-GÅÞ¤-hP-hÝÅ-Vïm-Vï-DG ¹-¼ïºÛ-±ïÅ-GÅÞ¤-¿Ë-GÅô¾-zTÅ-¾-hÝÅ-ÅïP-hP.ü ¾ô-¿e¼-zôh-¹- 4 ±ïÅ-13 ZÛm-h‚¼-GÅô¾-Vïm-¤ô-ŸïÅ-h¤G-ÇK¼-±ßGÅ-qºÛ-hÝÅ-im-¿e-zÞ¼ü¼Þ-zOÛGÅ-MÅ-qºÛ-ÇKô-mÅ-hI-¿Ë-GÅô¾-¤Vôh-hP.ü ZÛm-ÁÅ-¼ÛP-h¤G-Çeôm-vô-BÛh-GÝP-ÅïP-‚ïhü hïºÛ-Ç+zÅ-Å-DÞ¾-μôP-G®ô-hP-Çkï-hGôm-HÛ-„À-væ¾-¤Û-iG-¤Iôm-ºzôh-ŸÝü

h¤G-ÇK¼-hP-»Þ¾-¤ÛºÛ-GŸÅ-hP-ŸzÅ-ƒô-¿Ë-¤ô-ÅôGÅ-ºFz-Çeôm-HÛÅ-¤±ôm-¯ïh-Ço-MÅ-zÇkÝÅ-GP-¼ÞP-ºIm-zÇkݼ-¾-¤hº-μôP-¸ÞP-

Page 310: 14 mount-everest-dingri

288

288 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ºƒï¾-mÅ-‚-hGº-GmP-¢Ûm-hP.ü »Þ¾-hGôm-HÛ-hÝÅ-Vïm-hP.ü ºV¤-Çeôm-Vï-DG h¤G-ÇK¼-HÛ-ºGô-‚ïh-¤Iôm-ºzôh-‚-¼ïÅ-ÅôGÅ-¤²º-ºƒï¾-GP-fÞz-‚ïhü hï-zŸÛm-¿Ë-Å-hP-Vz-¤hô-DÞ¾-hÝ-hqôm-DG-Å-ŸÛz-hP.üh¤G-ŸÛz-GP-¼ÞP-¾-Å-GmÅ-ÅÞ-º‚ô¼-fôm-Ç+zÅ-¤Pº-DÞ¾-ŸÛ-iG-¤Û-ÇoÅ-zÅÞ-Bï¾-Çoï-¾ïm-GP-G¸z-ŸÝü h¤G-ÇK¼-mÅ-»Þ¾-mP-BzÅ-»Þ¾-¼ÛÅ-¤ïh-hGôm-DG-¾-zljïm-z;ݼ-hP.ü uÛ-¼Û¤-Oæz-hGôÅ-ˆÛ-¤±ôm-¤Û-ÁÛ-Aïm-VG-‚ãP-±ï-„À-IÔ-Ghm-ŸÝ-‚ïhü

hGôm-q-hP.ü ¿Ë-DP.ü ¤Vôh-dïm-ÅôGÅ-Z¤Å-GÅôºÛ-ÇÀh-»Þ¾-hGôm-ÅÞ-¼ÞP-mÅ-¼ï-zÇ+ݾ-‚ãP-m-h¤G-¤Û-GP-fôm-¾Å-ºÞ¾-hÝ-GbôP.ü»Þ¾-mP-hzÞ¾-wôPÅ-¾-º±ô-wm-¢Ûm-GbôP-GP-fÞz-‚ïh-Æô¾-zTÅ-mP-q-ÅPÅ-MÅ-qºÛ-¼P-zŸÛm-ºHã¼-¤ïh-»ôhü

hï-zŸÛm-»Þ¾-¤Û¼-Çeôm-hrÛh-Å-ŸÛP-ÇS-ºhïzÅ-Ç+zÅ-¼ï-zÇ+ݾ-‚ãP-±ï-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-ÇÀh-h¤G-¤Û-¤P-ZÝP-¾-¤-¿eôÅ-q¼ü GbôP-¾¤-ÅôGÅ-¾ô-¤P-ºiÛÅ-ºƒï¾-Vï-zÅ-»Þ¾-mP-hGº-Zï-IôGÅ-zTÅ-Wï-¤P-hÝ-ºIôü »P-ºGº-ÁÅ-mÅ-wm-±ßm-¤ôÅ-¤fÞm-GôP-¼Û¤-HÛÅ-z;º-ºFô¾-fôz-m-GZïm-zÇkïzÅ-ˆÛ-GŸÛÅ-zÇ+ô¼-hÝ-zBôh-Ç+zÅ-zÞh-¤ïh-¼P-EÛ¤-hÝ-ºFÛh-ºWôG-‚ïhü hï-¿e¼-h¤G-¤Û-hP-¤Û-¤P-¼ÛGÅ-¤fÞm-¤²º-ºƒï¾-Vï-ÇezÅ-h¤G-ÇK¼-ºwôÅ-¾ïm-Ç+zÅ-»Þ¾-¤ÛÅ-Åï¤Å-ºyïP-hP-

Page 311: 14 mount-everest-dingri

289

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 289

zTÅ-Bï¾-¤-»P-‚ïh-q-¼ïhüºôm-ˆP-ŸÛ-iG-¤Û-Ço-hôm-¤-Gô-z-¼ï-¸ÞP-mÅ-¾Å-hôm-‚-ÇePÅ-¤-

z¸ô-z¼-XïÅ-»ôP-ÇSôm-im-¤Û-fÞz-q-ZÝP-ÁÅ-ˆÛÅ-¼P-GÛ-Dï-wm-GTÛG-qÞºÛ-hôm-M-¤Û-ÇÀïzÅ-±ï-F¾-MãG-FÛ¤Å-ºDÞ¼-¤Û-hGôÅ-q¼-¼P-hzP-hP.ü º±ô-BôP-¼ôGÅ-¼¤-‚-zŸÛm-»ôh-¾ÞGÅ-GŸÝP-hP-Vz-ºzPÅ-z¼-wÞP-h=âG-Ç~Û¼-Gb¤-WÛ-ljïh-TÛG-Áôh-zŸÛm-q-mP-GÛ-ºG¾-Aïm-®¤-¾Åü ̄ -zºÛ-¤P-±ôGÅ-mÅ-¼P-GŸÝP-¾-GTïÅ-qºÛ-n¤-q-GP-¾ïGÅ-»ôhü

m] GŸÛÅ-zÇ+ô¼-hP-¾Å-ºGm-GmÅ-ÇePÅüz;º-hGôPÅ-xôGÅ-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-zXï-¾ïm-hÝ-Gż-q-º‚ô¼-ºy¾-

¾Å-ºGm-hP-ŸÝ-ÇKô-¯ÛÅ-vôh-¾ïm-HÛ-½‰ÛP-q-GŸÛÅ-zÇ+ô¼-hÝ-ºIôü ¼P-GŸÛÅ-ˆÛ-μôP-DÞ¾-º‚ô¼-Ç+zÅ-GŸÛÅ-¤Û-n¤Å-mÅ-G¸z-¤Vô¼-GP-MÅ-hP-ŸÛ¤-¸Å-Ço-±ôGÅ-ºEï¼-mÅ-zÅÞ-¤-‚ïhü GŸÛÅ-‚ïÅ-Pô-ºyh-hGº-Bô-¸ÞP-ºƒï¾-HÛ-h¤G-»ôPÅ-¼P-ÇK¼-hÝ-ZÛm-ÁÅ-¿Ëôh-Çkôh-‚ïhü GŸÛÅ-¯ï-hP-hÛP-¼Ûü M¾-¯ïü IÔ-zŸÛ-¿e-zÞºÛ-GmÅ-ÇK¼-»ôh-ż-Mãm-¾Å-ÅÞ-ºGô-h¤G-hGôÅ-PïÅ-¤-GbôGÅ-‚ÛPÅ-n¤Å-¼P-EÛ¤-ÇÀôG Gô-μÅ-hP-uÛ-μÅ-»ôh-¼ÛGÅ-Gô-¤²ôh-hÝ-zÇkÝ-ºWâG-‚ïhü Gô-¤²ôh-ˆÛ-ÆâP-‚-¿kÛP-DG-¼ï-¹-¼ï-Çkôh-¼ïÅ-zXïÅ-ºIâ¾-ŸÝü

Page 312: 14 mount-everest-dingri

290

290 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

GŸÛÅ-zÇ+ô¼-hÝ-GmÅ-Mãm-¼ÛP-dïm-GmÅ-hP.ü h¤G-JÀ-¤-GbôGÅ-GŸÝP-wôGÅ-°¾-¾¤-¤ïhü ¾ô-¼ïºÛ-hÝÅ-im-h‚¼-GÅô¾-Vïm-¤ô-hP-Ç+zÅ-zÇeàmü ºGô-h¤G-»ôPÅ-μôGÅ-zÇkÝ-Ç+ôP-GÛ-ZÛm-ÁÅ-¼ÛP-h¤G-¢ôP-Ço-±ôGÅ-zB¼-¢ôP-hP.ü uÛ-hôm-Gô-zÇkÝ-iÛ¾-zOGÅü ¾Å-ºV¼-Gż-ºGôhü ¤ÛP-fô¼-ŸÛz-ºWâG-ÅôGÅ-‚ïhü hï-mÅ-¿Ë-GÅô¾-hPôÅ-GŸÛ-±ßGÅ-bï-ÇS¼-¾¤-¤²h-ÇKô-»ôPÅ-μôGÅ-xôGÅ-Çkôh-¿Ë-GÅô¾-¾Å-MÅ-®¤-ŸÝÅ-bï-h¤G-¤P-¼P-EÛ¤-hÝ-ÇS¼-zŸÛm-zÇÀôGÅü

h¤G-ÇK¼-Åô-ÅôºÛ-uÛ-ºzz-»ôP-h¤ÛGÅ-G Û̧GÅ-GÅôÅ-°¾-zºÛ-GŸÛÅ-DG-hP.ü GŸm-»P-»ôP-ºzz-Ço-±ôGÅ-zÆÛ-±GÅ-ºwï¾-Bïh-ŸÝü GŸÛÅ-‚ïÅ-GP-ż-uÛ-GZï¼-Pô-¾Å-mÅ-uÛ-μÅ-hP.ü ¾ô-¼ïºÛ-‚ãP-ÅôP-h¤G-ÇK¼-¿Ëm-ÇeïP-hÝ-¯ÛÅ-zÇkô¤Å-fïPÅ-¼ï-ŸÝÅ-bï-GZï¼-q-Gż-½‰ÛP-¯ÛÅ-vôh-ºwôÅ-¾ïm-‚ïhü ¾ô-¿e¼-uÛ-ºfÞÅ-¼Þ-zM-hô-Vôh-¼ï-zôh-¿YôPÅ-h¤G-uÛ-DP-hÝ-¾Å-zÇkô¤Å-ljm-ŸÝ¼-ºIôü ¿Ë-ż-¼P-ÇK¼-HÛ-Çkôh-‚¼-zM-¿kÛP-ÅÞ-¼ÞP-Mãm-º²âGÅ-‚ïhü

¤Pº-DÞ¾-hÝ-¤hº-hqôm-Pô-zŸÝGÅ-¤ïh-±ï-zŸÝGÅ-¼ïÅ-ŸïÅ-Ç+Ý-±z-GTÛG-mÅ-¾Å-ºDÞ¼-ŸÝ-z-¼ïhü ÇÀ¼-»P-z;º-hGôPÅ-h¤G-ÇK¼-xôGÅ-fôm-ŸÝ-Ç+zÅ-ºGô-h¤G-»ôPÅ-μôGÅ-zÇkÝ-Ç+ôP-GÛ-Gô-μÅ-ºhôm-vôh-hP-ºƒï¾-I-OÛG-V-±P-‚Å-bï-ºIôü Ç+zÅ-hï¼-GŸÛÅ-¤Û-n¤Å-mÅ-zÅÞ-

Page 313: 14 mount-everest-dingri

291

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-qôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 291

¤-¾Å-MÅ-zÁ¤Å-Vï-zºÛ-Bï¾-¤-‚ïhü »Þh-®¤-¼ÛP-GŸÛÅ-h¤G-ƒ¾-¤Û-wôh-qºÛ-ÇoP-±ß¾-hP-zTÅ-wm-±ßm-D-ÇKô-ÇÀôz-Çeôm-hP.ü Qm-q-vôh-¼ïÅü D-zbGÅ-G»ôGÅ-¼ïÅü ºGô-fôm-¾¤-ºIô-»ôP-zºÛ-Ǩôm-ºhïzÅ-ÅôGÅ-dGÅ-dïm-¤-ºVô¾-z-‚Å-bï-xôGÅ-fôm-ŸÝ-zŸÛm-ºhÝG

q] ¿Ë-ż-zTº-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-ˆÛ-ŸÝ-ÇKôü¿Ë-ż-Çkôh-Ç+zÅ-uÛ¼-zbP-h¤G-¢ôP-Ço-±ôGÅ-hP-ÆâP-‚ü zÇ+ô¼-G»ïP.üGŸÝP-DP-Gż-MG-hP-Z¤Å-GÅôºÛ-ͼ-¾Å-ŸÝ-ÇKôÅ-¤±ôm-GŸÝP-¾Å-G¼-hGôÅ-z;º-fôm-zŸÛm-hÝü &GôP-Å-BzÅ-¤Gôm-Vïm-qô-¤VôG-ºV¼-ºw¼-VÛzÅ-Nå¼-Ç+zÅ-¼Þ-OÛG-GÝÅ-zbàh-hP.ü hï-zŸÛm-GŸÝP-GÛ-¤²h-Vïm-DG-hP.ü hqôm-¼ÛGÅ-Vï-DG-GŸÝP-hôm-fôm-º‚ô¼-Ç+zÅ-¼Þ-OÛG-GÝÅ-zbàh-ŸÝ-z¼-zT¼ü

&M¾-zºÛ-Ç+Ý-xÕºÛ-Zïm-ÆâP-hP.ü wô-ƒP-»Å-¤Å- Û̂-ÆâP-‚-ÅôGÅ-ŸÝ-ÇKô-WÛ-ljïh-TÛG-»ôh-q-;-hP-Ç+Ý-ÆâP-h¤G-ÇK¼-mÅ-@P-¾ïm-ŸÝü zôh-¹- 7 ±ïÅ- 2 mÅ-ZÛm-GÅÞ¤-¼ÛP-¾ô-¿e¼-mô¼-JÀÛP-hÝ-ÇS¼-¾¤-Ÿô-Çeôm-¤²h-ÇKô-ÇS-hGôP-±ßGÅ-Iô¾-Ç+zÅü ¿Ë-źÛ-h¤G-ÇK¼-DG-¼Þ-OÛG-MÅ-qºÛ-ÇKô-mÅ-wô-ƒP-D¤Å-GÅÞ¤- Û̧¾-Gmôm-HÛ-ÇkÛPÅ-VºÛ-¤hÝm-hÝ-¼Û¤-zŸÛm-Çkï-±m-OÛG &GôP-Å-BzÅ-¤Gôm-Vïm-qô-¤VôG-hP-M¾-zºÛ-»ôPÅ-

Page 314: 14 mount-everest-dingri

292

292 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

º²Ûm-¿Ëm-MÅ-wô-ƒP-GÛ-hzÞÅ-mÅ-G¸ÛGÅ-qºÛ-ÇkÛPÅ-VºÛ-G»Å-G»ôm-hÝ-ÆÛh-„Àôm-hP.ü z;º-„Àôm-¤±m-ŸzÅü „À-væ¾ü xÛ-M¾-Ç+Ý-±z-¤Û-Çoü GŸm-»P-GŸÝP-ŸzÅ-ŸÛ-iG-hqôm-¼ÛGÅ-n¤Å-Gô-¼Û¤-zŸÛm-I¾-¾-ºDôh-hï-zŸïPÅ-zŸÝGÅ-fôG ¤Û-¤P-n¤Å-ˆP-mô¼-JÀÛP-¿UGÅ-¼ÛºÛ-xÛ-mP-;Ým-mÅ-wô-ƒP-¾-D-xôGÅ-bï-ºhÝG-q-hP-hÝÅ-¤±ßPÅ-zôh-¿YôPÅ-h¤G-uÛ-zIïÅ-qÅ-GÅÞP-ÁÝGÅ-¤fôm-qôÅü Çkï-±ôGÅü h‚ÛPÅ-ż-¤±ôm-¤W¾-Gbôhü TïÅ-GÅÞP-ZÛh-M¾-JÀâ-h¤G-ÇkïºÛ-¼ô¾-VºÛ-GhPÅ-ÅÞ-iPÅ-ÁÛP.ü ¿kÛP-hqôm-»m-HÛ-¼¾-IÛºÛ-¯ï-wzü h¤G-»ôPÅ-mÅ-Gô-¤±ôm-¯ï-IÛ-º‚¼-¤-¤hÝm-hÝ-zOïP-Çeï-GÝÅ-zbàh-ŸÝÅ-XïÅ-¯ï-IÛ-wz-Çeï-Çkï-±m-Åô-ÅôºÛ-¼Þ-Ço-FÛh-hï-ÇkÛPÅ-VºÛ-¤hÝm-mÅ-@P-I-zOÛGÅ-ÁÛP-G»Å-xôGÅ-ÅÞ-¿e-ÇePÅ-hP.ü ¼Þ-h¼-ÇKݼ-wz-zBôh-±ß¾-hP-zTÅ-¼P-ÇK¼-hÝ-¾ôG Ÿô-Çeôm-¼ÛP-h¤G-ÇK¼-DG-h¤ÛGÅ-zž-GÝP-ÅïP-»ôh-ÇezÅ-mô¼-JÀÛP-Zï-DÞ¾-JÀÛP-GºÛ-mP-ÇK¼-I¾-zOÛG-Çeï-vô-BÛh-GbôP.ü hïºÛ-Ç+zÅ-ºƒï¾-»ôh-ŸÛ-iG-hqôm-¼ÛGÅ-hP.ü h¤G-ÇK¼-wm-±ßm-¤Iôm-hÝ-ºzôh-¼ïÅ-ÅôGÅ-È-TP-MÅ-zÁô¤Å-Vï-zºÛ-hGº-vô¼-¾ôPÅ-ÅÞ-uôhü

hï-zŸÛm-zôh-¹- 1 ±ïÅ- 15 hGôP-iô-¿Ë-¿km-Vô-ºyâ¾-Ǩôm-¾¤-Vïm-¤ôºÛ-¤Vôh-G¸ÛGÅ-¤²h-ÇKô¼-h¤G-ÇK¼-DG-z¼-zÇ+ô¼-mP-¼Þ-zOÛGÅ-&GôP-Å-¤VôG-VÛzÅ-zNå¼-»ôh-m-hP.ü hï-¤Ûm-z;º-ÁG-¾-

Page 315: 14 mount-everest-dingri

293

zôh-M¾-Dz-Vïm-q ôº Û -iG-qô -h¤G-GÛ -¾ô -MãÅü 293

GÝÅ-Gbàh-ŸÝÅ-bï-¼P-ÇK¼-hÝ-¾ôG ¾ô-¿e¼-h‚¼-GÅô¾-hP-ÇezÅ-zÇeàm-HÛÅ-¿Ë-»ôh-h¤G-ÇK¼-DG-GÛ-¿kÛP-hqôm-»m-G¸z-Hôm-HÛÅ-hGº-GhôP-hP-ü GmÅ-VßP-um-ºiïm-GÅô¾-¤Vôh-hÝ-ºIôü hï-ZÛm-GmÅ-hGº-IÔ-±P-GZÛÅ-mÅ-ºGô-‚ïh-n¤Å-¾-ÇS¼-¾¤-GÅô¾-±ÛGÅ-G¸z-ºzÞ¾-GmP-Æô¾-ÅôGÅ-h‚¼-GÅô¾-Ç+zÅü ºGô-h¤G-n¤Å-ZÛm-ÁÅ-vô-BÛh-GbôP.ü ¼Þ-OÛG-‚-±ß¾-mÛü ¼Þ-¤Gô¼-Q-Vï-VßP-ü „Ë-Vü hÝP-Ço-±ôGÅüJÀÛP-zÞ-ÅôGÅ-„Ë-hÝP-GÛ-Çkï-±m-zOÛGÅ-bï-h¤G-JÀâ-Ço-±ôGÅ-¼ô¾-VºÛ-h‚PÅ-ÅÞ-¾ïmü hï-XïÅ-M¾-h¼-zOïP-ºôG-¼Þ-h¼-ºEï¼-z-hP.ü hï-mÅ-h¤G-»ôPÅ-VÅ-GôÅ-GŸÛ-¤±ßPÅ-Çkï-±m-Åô-Åô-¼Þ-zŸÛ-OÛG-GÛÅ-Çoï¼-»ôh-ºGô-‚ïh-Gô-¼Û¤-º²ô¾-¤ïh-Ç+h-hP-¤Û-z¯ÛÅ-ŸÝÅ-bïü h¤G-¯ïh-@P-O-GTÛG-¿e¼-Çkï-±m-ºiïÅ-¤ïh-zBôh-zOÛG-Ç+zÅ-Q¤Å-¸Û¾-Vï-ŸÛP.ü h¤G-ÇkïºÛ-¼Þ-OÛG-¾-¤Û-¤P-»P-hGº-Åï¤Å-ºDô¾-zºÛ-G¸ÛGÅ-¤ô-vô-Z¤Å-Vï-¾-¿eh-¤ô-zºÛ-mP-mÅ-ÅPÅ-MÅ-ˆÛ-zÇem-q-h¼ü GŸÝP-źÛ-hzÞ-ºwPÅ-¤fôü zôh-¿YôPÅ-¿Ë-h¤G-n¤Å-G»Þ¾-¾Å-n¤-q¼-M¾-z-ÁôG-TïÅ-Ǩôm-ºhïzÅ-ÁÝGÅ-iG-GmP-¤Dm-»P-¤P-qô-»ôhü ¼Þ-zM-»m-GŸÝP-GÛ-ºV¼-ºw¼-¤²h-Vïm-DG-¾-h¤G-uÛ-DP-zMãh-z;º-wïzÅ-hGôPÅ-¿e¼ü ¾Å-ŸÐ-¾Å-GôÅ-Hôm-bï-zT¼-¾¤-hP-xôGÅ-fôm-Ç+zÅ-¯ï-Áôh-ºGG-hP-h¤G-uÛ-DP-hÝ-fôm-º‚ô¼-HÛ-¤W¾-xG-ŸÝ-z-

Page 316: 14 mount-everest-dingri

294

294 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

ÅôGÅ-iâP-GmÅ-uÛ-ºIïºÛ-fôz-fP-¾¤-Æô¾-Z¤Å-¤ïh-ŸÝ-zŸÛm-ºhÝG

GZÛÅ-qü

M-GŸÝP-GÛ-GhÝG-¯çz-ºôG-±ï-ÆôG-Áô¼-zºÛ-zôh-¤ÛºÛ-¤ÛP-GŸÝP-ü

1] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Ûü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-Iâ-zŸÛ-F¾-z-Gż-qü ¤ÛP-wÞm-±ôGÅü ¤Û-±P-iG-IÅ-»Ûm-qÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1960 ¾ô¼-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bïü GŸÛÅ-¯ï-z;¼-DP-hÝ-zTßG-Ç+zÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1961 ¾ô¼-fôm-Çtï¾-Iôm-VßP-ŸïÅ-qºÛ-¾Å-ºGݾ-Çtï¾-z¼-zdïmü ¿eôGÅ-ÁÛ-fïzÅühï-hÝÅ-DôP-¾ô-ÅÞ¤-Tß-Åô-GTÛG-®¤-»Ûmü 2] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Ûü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-wÞ-Á¼-qü ¤ÛP-ºW¤-h‚PÅüº²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚ïh-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-hP-ü ¾ô-hÝÅü z®ôm-DP-ü ºhÅ-hÝÅüm-±ôh-zTÅ-GôP-ºDôh-hP-¤±ßPÅü 3] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Ûü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-Iâ-zŸÛ-Eô-Bü ¤ÛP-Çtïm-qü º²Ûm-z Þ̧P-

Page 317: 14 mount-everest-dingri

295

M-GŸÝP-GÛ -Çk ÝG-¯çz-º ôG-±ï -Æ ôG-Áô¼-zºÛ -z ôh-¤Ûü 295

‚Å-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-ÅôGÅ-GôP-hP-¤±ßPÅ-¾ü GÁïGÅ-hÝÅ-¾ô-Åô-zhÝm-®¤-»Ûmü 4] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Ûü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-¯-Ç+ô¼ü ¤ÛP-hôm-Iâzü º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-ÅôGÅ-GôP-hP-¤±ßPÅ-¾ü GÁïGÅ-hÝÅ-¾ô-zŸÛ-zTß-®¤-»Ûmü 5] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Û-Áï¾-h;¼-lô-zMhü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-ºzº-ºôG¤ÛP-„Àô-z¸P-ü º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-ÅôGÅ-GôP-hP-¤±ßPÅ-¾| GÁïGÅ-hÝÅ-¾ô-ÅÞ¤-Tß-Åô-IPÅ-®¤-»Ûmü 6] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Û-M¾-mô¼ü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-hGôm-Gżü ¤ÛP-zÞ-VßP-ü º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-ÅôGÅ-GôP-hP-¤±ßPÅ-¾ü z;¼-DP-mÅ-Z-¼Û-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-zbP-Çeï-¿eôGÅ-z=ïÅ-PP-ºhÅü hï-hÝÅ-m-±ôh-¾ô-Zï¼-zMh-®¤-»Ûmü 7] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Û-M¾-mô¼ü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-D-TßP-ü ¤ÛP-zÞ-wÞm-±ôGÅü º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-GôP-hP-¤±ßPÅ-¾ü uÛ-¾ô-1959 ¾ô-mÅ-z;¼-DP-z®ôm-DP-ÅôGÅ-ÅÞ-zTßG-mÅ-¤f¼-uÛ-¾ô-1961 ¾ô¼-GŸÛÅ-¯ï-Ço¼-fP-ŸÛP-¼¼-¿eôGÅ-¼Ûh-PP-ºhÅü hï-hÝÅ-¾ô-ÅÞ¤-Tß-Åô-zhÝm-®¤-»Ûmü 8] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Û-M¾-mô¼ü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-m-Á¼ü ¤ÛP-zÞ-¼Ûm-Vïmü º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-ÅôGÅ-zÞ-wÞm-±ôGÅ-hP-¤±ßPÅ-

Page 318: 14 mount-everest-dingri

296

296 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

¾| GÁïGÅ-hÝÅ-¾ô-ÅÞ¤-Tß-Åô-zMh-®¤-»Ûmü 9] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Û-¯ÛzÅ-¼Û-‚P-ü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-ÇSôm-qôü ¤ÛP-zÞ-;Ým-hGºü º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-ÅôGÅ-zÞ-¼Ûm-Vïm-hP-¤±ßPÅ-¾| GÁïGÅ-hÝÅ-¾ô-ÅÞ¤-Tß-Åô-zŸÛ-®¤-»Ûmü 10] BïÅ-»Þ¾-w-iâG Áï¾-h;¼-VôÅ-ÇkïºÛ-IÔ-q-¾ÞP-dôGÅ-VôÅ-ºwï¾ü MP-wÞG-GŸÛÅ-hqôm-»Ûm-qÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô¼-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bïü GŸÛÅ-¯ï-z;¼-DP-hÝ-zTßG-mÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1960®¤-¾-¤ÞG-ÁÛ-fïzÅü 11] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Û-¾ô-¾ôü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-h‚ï¼-¼ü ¤ÛP-Lm-VïmüuÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô¼-¾ô-¾ôºÛ-Lm-qô-»Ûm-qÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bïü z;¼-DP-z®ôm-DP-ÅôGÅ-ÅÞ-¼Û¤-qÅ-zTßG-q-hP-ü hï-XïÅ-ZÛP-FÛ¼-FÛh-hï-uÛ-¾ô- 1961 ¾ô¼-ZÛP-FÛ-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-¤ÞG-ÁÛ-fïzÅü hï-hÝÅ-¾ô-zŸÛ-zTß-Ÿï-¿S-®¤-»Ûmü 12] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Û-w-iâG ¤ÛP-„Àô-z¸P-lô-Xïü IÔ-q-»Ûm-q-hP-ü D¼-dºÛ-GŸÛÅ-hqôm-»Ûm-qÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-GÛÅ-z;¼-DP-hÝ-zTßG-q-hP-ü uÛ-¾ô- 1961 ¾ô¼-z®ôm-DP-hï-G¼-¿eôGÅ-ÁÛ-fïzÅü hï-hÝÅ-¾ô-iâG-Tß-®¤-»Ûmü 13] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Û-GmÅ-GÅï¼-¤ôü ¤ÛP-zG-Iôü Áï¾-h;¼-

Page 319: 14 mount-everest-dingri

297

M-GŸÝP-GÛ-Çk ÝG-¯çz-ºôG-±ï-ÆôG-Áô¼-zºÛ-zôh-¤Ûü 297

VôÅ-ÇkïºÛ-IÔ-q-»Ûm-q-hP-ü ¾Å-Çoï-»Ûm-q¼-zdïm-uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô¼-º²Ûm-z Þ̧P-‚Å-bïü z;¼-DP-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-zTßG-mÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1961 ¾ô¼-z®ôm-DP-hï-G¼-¿eôGÅ-ÁÛ-fïzÅü hï-hÝÅ-¾ô-zŸÛ-zTß-®¤-»Ûmü 14] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Û-w-iâG EÛ¤-¤ÛP-±ÛÅ-¼ôh-Ǩhü ¤ÛP-„Àô-z¸P-¼ÛG-Iô¾ü Áï¾-h;¼-VôÅ-ÇkïºÛ-IÔ-q-hP-¾Å-Çoï-»Ûm-q¼-zdïmüuÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô¼-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bï-z;¼-DP-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-zTßGuÛ-¾ô- 1961 ¾ô¼-z®ôm-DP-hï-G¼-¿eôGÅ-ÁÛ-fïzÅü hï-hÝÅ-¾ô-¿S-zTß-P-GTÛG-®¤-»Ûmü 15] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Û-Áï¾-h;¼ü ¤ÛP-±ôP-q-Çtïm-q-±ï-¼ÛP-üº²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚ïh-hGôÅ-Mã-¤±m-Gž-ÁïÅ-¤-‚ãP-»P-ü uÛ-¾ô- 1959¾ô¼-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bï-z;¼-DP-hÝ-zTßG-q-hP-hï-XïÅ-Íï-¤-ÇKP-ŸÛP-¼¼-FÛhü Å-GmÅ-hï-G¼-uÛ-¾ô- 1961 ¾ô¼-¿eôGÅ-ÁÛ-fïzÅü hï-hÝÅ-¾ô-zŸÛ-zTß-Ÿï-IPÅ-®¤-»Ûmü 16] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Û-Á-lô¼ü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-Vô-¾ôü ¤ÛP-¿ËG-qü T-hP-hÛP-h¤G-GÛ-Ÿ¾-Pô-»Ûm-qÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô¼-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bïü z;¼-DP-hP-ü ¿Ë-ż-FÛh-hï-¤f¼-mô¼-JÀÛP-hÝ-¿eôGÅ-ÁÛ-fïzÅü hï-hÝÅ-¾ô-iâG-Tß-¼ï-zŸÛ-®¤-»Ûmü 17] BïÅ-»Þ¾-hÛP-¼Û-w-iâG EÛ¤-¤ÛP-z-¾Åü ¤ÛP-„Àô-z¸P-

Page 320: 14 mount-everest-dingri

298

298 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

VôÅ-ºwï¾ü Áï¾-h;¼-VôÅ-ÇkïºÛ-IÔ-q-»Ûm-q-hP-ü ¤±ô-h;¼-GŸÛÅ-;ºÛ-GŸÛÅ-hqôm-»Ûm-qÅ-uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô¼-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bïüz;¼-DP-z®ôm-DP-hÝ-zTßG-q-hP-uÛ-¾ô- 1961 ¾ô¼-z®ôm-DP-hï-G¼-¿eôGÅ-ÁÛ-fïzÅü 18] BïÅ-»Þ¾-D¤Å-Çkï-hGïü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-d-G»ôP-ü ¤ÛP-±ï-¼ÛP-lô-Xïü uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô¼-Çkï-hGï¼-h¤G-ºfz-Ç+zÅ-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bïü Çkï-hGï-hP-Vz-¤hôü ±-z-Çtô¤-¤hº-zTÅ-ÅÞ-¼Û¤-HÛÅ-z®ôm-zTßG-‚Å-q-hP-ü ¤f¼-Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-bà-zTßG-mÅ-¾ô-ÁÅ-h;º-P¾-TÛ-VïºÛ-PP-¤f¼-uÛ-¾ô- 1974 ¾ô¼-ÁÛP-zTh-mÅ-¼Û-mÅ-ºIÛ¾-Ç+zÅ-ºwôG-mÅ-ºhÅü hï-hÝÅ-¾ô-¿S-zTß-P-iâG-®¤-»Ûmü 19] BïÅ-»Þ¾-¿Ëô-D-hÐGÅ-qôü EÛ¤-¤ÛP-;ô-¯ü ¤ÛP-zÅôh-m¤Å-ÇeôzÅ-M¾ü EÛ¤-±P-zÇem-ÆâP-hP-„ÀP-h¤G-GÛ-wôGÅ-DP-‚Å-qºÛ-Mã-¤±m-¾-zdïmü uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô¼-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bï-M-±-μôP-hP-ü ;ôP-qô¼-zbP-Çeï-uÛ-¾ô- 1980 ¾ô¼-Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-bà-ºhÅü hï-hÝÅ-¾ô-zhÝm-Tß-hôm-IPÅ-»Ûmü 20] GôP-ºDôh-;ô-®-zÅôh-m¤Å-ÇeôzÅ-MÅ-ˆÛ-zÞü w-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-XïÅ-M-h¤G-n¤Å-EÛ¤-±P-hÝ-GmÅ-Çkôh-‚Å-bï-¼P-GÛ-GTïm-¤ô¼-z®m-G»ï¤-GbôP-Ç+zÅü GTßP-qôÅ-ºGôG-fzÅ-‚Å-q¼-M-h¤G-

Page 321: 14 mount-everest-dingri

299

M-GŸÝP-GÛ -Çk ÝG-¯çz-ºôG-±ï-ÆôG-Áô¼-zºÛ-zôh-¤Ûü 299

GÛÅ-¤ï-¤hº-ºwPÅ-mÅ-zÅhü hï-hÝÅ-zÞ-hï-¾ô-ZÛ-ÁÝ-®¤-»Ûmü GmÅ-±ß¾-ºhÛ-;ô-®-zÅôh-m¤Å-ÇeôzÅ-M¾-DôP-¼P-ZÛh-ˆÛÅ-ym-PG-hzP-¾-GÅÞPÅ-q-ŸÛG-»Ûmü 21] BïÅ-»Þ¾-¿Ë-Åü ¤ÛP-„À-xG-±ï-GŸômü hï-ÇSôm-wïzÅ-‚¤Å-ºGô-q-»Ûm-q-hP-ü uÛ-¾ô- 1959 ¾ô¼-Hïm-¾PÅ-mP-zBôh-q¼-zdïm-º²Ûm-z¸ÞP-‚Å-bïü ¤f¼-Çtô-zô-v-©ôG-bà-zbP-mÅ-v-¾ÞP-hÝ-uÛ-¾ô- 1969 ¾ô¼-M-¾Å-ÁºÞ-lô-XïÅ-lÝP-lïG-zbP-mÅ-ºhÅü hï-hÝÅ-¾ô-¿S-zTß-®¤-»Ûmü

BÛh-IôP-DÞ¾-hÝ-M-h¤¼-HÛ-¤m¼-GTôh-ºôG-ºhÅ-IôPÅ-ÅÞ-Hã¼-qü

1] ¿UP-q-¹-z-ÅïRKï.ü2] ¤ï-bï-M¾-qôü3] ÇtP-ÁÛP-¼-qºÛ-hGï-zÁïÅü4] ¤-¼-¼G-q-q-ÅPÅ-±ï-¼ÛP-ü5] JÀP-Vß-;Ým-hGºü

Page 322: 14 mount-everest-dingri

300

6] ¤ÛP-BÛh-GŸô¾ü

7] ÇtP-ÁÛP-Ǩh-hzP-Vïmü8] IÔ-hzP-IGÅü

GôP-Gž-BÛh-IôP-DÞ¾-HÛ-¤ÛP-GŸÝP-n¤Å-l-Å-BÛh-IôP-IôP-Çkï¼-GmÅ-zŸÝGÅ-¹-z-z¸P-qô-¾GÅ-ˆÛÅ-GmP-ü

Page 323: 14 mount-everest-dingri

301

G»Å-mÅ

-z¯ÛÅü 1]

ym-PG-hzP-ü 2] º

W¤-h‚P

Åü 3]

bÛ-ÇePÅ

-»ôm-bmü

4] ¤

±¤Å-¤h

º-z=

-ÁÛÅü 5] M

¾-qôü 6]

μôP-hG

º-zÇ

em-º²

Ûmü 7]

Åï¼-¤ô-zÅôh-m¤

Åü

Page 324: 14 mount-everest-dingri

302

zÞ-yâG-n¤Å-ˆÛ-¤-BÛh-º²ô¤Åü uÛ-¾ô- 1993ü

Page 325: 14 mount-everest-dingri

303

1] zhï-Vïm-±ï-¼ÛP-ü 2] ‚P-Vßz-z¸P-¤ôü 3] Ç+¾-z¸P-¿Ë-¤ôü

uÛ-¾ô- 1982 ¾ô-Gż-Ç+zÅü 1] GTßP-qô-d-¤IÛmü 2]

ym-PG-hzP-ü 3] ±-zô-zÇem-º²Ûm-¤fÞ-ÇeôzÅü 4] ±-zô-

ZÛ-¤ü 5] ±-zô-„Àô-z¸P-h¼-MÅü 6] GTßP-qô-q-ÅPÅü

Page 326: 14 mount-everest-dingri

304

300 Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

Tibet in TurmoilA Pictorial A ccount1950-1959The Nihon Kogyo shimbum

ÇSôm-HÛ-lôz-lôz-GZÛÅ-ˆÛ-ºi-q¼ü

Page 327: 14 mount-everest-dingri

305

M-GŸÝP-GÛ-Çk ÝG-¯çz-ºôG-±ï-ÆôG-Áô¼-zºÛ-zôh-¤ü 301

ym-PG-hzP-ü uÛ-¾ô- 1985 ¾ô-Gż-Ç+zÅü

hGº-¿km-hGôm-qºÛ-lôz-lôz-

‚¤Å-VßP.ü(hô -zhG-h ïP-h ÝÅ-l-Å-¿ Ë -M¾-¼Ûº Û -

Lm-GÅ ô -DP-h Ý -» ôhü)

Page 328: 14 mount-everest-dingri

306

302

Page 329: 14 mount-everest-dingri

307

303

Wô-¤ô-JÀP-¤ºÛ-zÞ-yâG

hïz-G¸ÞGÅ-ºV¼-OÛG-qü zÅôh-m¤Å-±ï-hzP.ü

¯ô¤-OÛG-qü „À ô -z¸P-z=-ÁÛÅü

zôh-M¾-¾ô- 2134 ¼z-GmÅ-¤ï-wG-¾ôü

uÛ-¾ô- 2007 ¹- 1 ±ïÅ- 15 ZÛmü

zôh-ˆÛ-hGÝ-zTß-GÅÞ¤-¾Å-ºGݾ-±ôGÅ-qü

Page 330: 14 mount-everest-dingri

308

304 Lm-¤ôºÛ-¤-zTôÅ-iP-Gb¤ü

Page 331: 14 mount-everest-dingri

309

M-h¤¼-HÛ -z®m-Gmôm-ºôG-±ï -Æ ôG-Áô¼-zºÛ -z ôh-¤Ûü 305

Page 332: 14 mount-everest-dingri

310

306 Lm-¤ôºÛ-¤-zTôÅ-iP-Gb¤ü

Page 333: 14 mount-everest-dingri

311

zÅôh-m¤Å-zG-IôÅ-z®m-‚ô¾-GŸÝP-GÛ -Ç+ Ý -±z-¾-wÞ¾-zºÛ -»ÛG-Vü 307

Page 334: 14 mount-everest-dingri

312

308 Lm-¤ôºÛ-¤-zTôÅ-iP-Gb¤ü

Page 335: 14 mount-everest-dingri

313

zÅôh-m¤Å-zG-IôÅ-z®m-‚ô¾-GŸÝP-GÛ -Ç+ Ý -±z-¾-wÞ¾-zºÛ -»ÛG-Vü 309

Page 336: 14 mount-everest-dingri

314