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International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06 113

112306-0909 IJET-IJENS @ December 2011 IJENS I J E N S

EFFECTS OF COMBED AND CARDED YARN ON WEFT KNITTED FINISHED

FABRIC QUALITY

1Nasrin Akter,

2Nahida Akter

Department of Textile EngineeringAhsanullah University of Science and Technology

141-142, Love Road, Tejgaon I/A, Dhaka 1208, Bangladesh

Abstract: Yarn is the fundamental unit of fabric. Yarn contains a lot of properties (variables) which canaffect knitted fabric finished quality. Carded and combed yarns of same count have many differentproperties because of different manufacturing process. Combed yarn is of superior quality and carded yarnis of inferior quality. The main purpose of this paper is to find out or investigate carded and combed yarneffect on knitted fabric finished quality such as GSM, Shrinkage, Spirality, Resistance of Pilling and Colorfastness properties.

Keywords: Combed, Carded, Single jersey, Rib, Interlock, GSM, Spirality, Shrinkage, Color fastness etc.

I. INTRODUCTIONYarns are the raw materials manipulated during knitting [2].An experienced knitter will describe many yarnproperties and knitting variable, all of which, from his experience, affect the characteristics of knittedfabrics. Any of these he may find it necessary to adjust or control in order to obtain a finished fabric of therequired physical properties [6]. The main yarn properties are yarn count and yarn twist. Both are of primeimportance in the design of textile structures and, to a large extent, they govern the appearance andbehavior of the various types of yarns and fabrics [1]. Yarn Count is the numerical expression of fineness.According to Textile Institute the number indicating the mass per unit length or length per unit mass ofyarn is called count [1]. Generally combed yarn strength is higher than carded yarn of the same count [3].Yarn twist is the spiral turns given to the yarn in order to hold constituent fibres threads together. Highlytwisted yarn is Lively and tends to twist upon it and produce Snarls fabrics produces from highly

twisted yarns will possess a lively handle. An increase in the amount of twist produces an increase in theyarn strength, if yarn strength is increase, the fabric strength will be increased [1]. Normally combed yarnsare stronger, less hairy, more uniform and more lustrous than carded yarns [4]. Knit fabric strength isdepends upon yarn strength and stitch length. Fabric quality means different properties of finished fabricwhich depends on yarn properties and fabrics construction [2]. The properties which are important forknitted fabric and maintained in the industries from grey stage to finished stage are GSM, dimensionalstability, Resistance of pilling and color fastness properties. In this research, these fabric properties werecompared after finishing for a same count carded and combed yarn and the possibility of uses carded yarnin place of combed yarn was analyzed. Carded yarn production process is easier than combed yarnproduction process and carded yarn is also cheaper than combed yarn [3].

II. SAMPLE PREPARATIONSame count of combed and carded yarn was collected from spinning mill considering other properties.Yarn evenness was tested by Premier 9000 (Hairiness, CV%, Um%, Thick place, Thin place, Neps etc). Collected 26 Ne carded and combed yarn for producing single jersey fabric. 28 Ne and 30 Ne carded andcombed yarn was taken for producing rib and interlock structure fabric. Knitting machine parameters suchas stitch length, number of feeders, take-down tension and cam arrangement were individually set for single

jersey, rib and interlock structure fabric. Same structure fabrics were produced in same knitting parametersin same machine by using same count carded and combed yarn. Here 2.67mm stitch length was used forproducing single jersey fabric. Two single jersey specimens were found with different grey GSM. The

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samples were delivered for dyeing after measuring grey GSM. Dyeing process was done in same bath insame dyeing condition and same dyeing recipe for comparing finished fabric properties. Samples werefinished in same procedure and same finishing parameters after completing dyeing and obtained twosamples with different finished GSM. Then rib and interlock structure fabric were produced by using2.52mm and 1.8mm stitch length, in rib knitting machine and interlock knitting machine. Equal knittingparameters were used for carded and combed yarn of same count (individual for rib and interlockstructure). As a result four samples were obtained of rib and interlock structure. Then the samples weredyeing in equal dyeing condition and same bath in same dyeing recipe (individual for rib and interlockfabric). Final samples were found for rib and interlock structure after finishing (in same finishingparameter, individual for rib and interlock).

III. EXPERIMENTALKnitting requires a relatively fine, smooth, strong yarn with good elastic recovery properties. The cardedyarn is particularly used for knitwear, underwear and socks and combed yarn is used for underwear,sportswear and socks. Four primary structures-Plain, Rib, Interlock and Purl are the base structures fromwhich all weft knitted fabrics and garments are derived [2].In this work study single jersey (Plain), rib andinterlock structure fabric were produced by using same count carded and combed yarn. A same countcarded and combed yarns have many different properties which influence the fabric quality. Here this yarneffect was observed on fabric physical properties like GSM, shrinkage, spirality and fabric pillingresistance as well as some chemical properties like color fastness to wash, color fastness to light and colorfastness to rubbing. The resistance to the loss of color of any dyed or printed material during washing isreferred to as its color fastness to wash. If dye molecule have not penetrated inside the inter polymer chainspace of fibre with strong attractive force poor color fastness to wash result is found [5]. For color fastnessto wash test ISO 105 C06 (C2S) method was followed. Color fastness to light measures the resistance tofading of dyed textiles materials when exposed to day light [5]. Mercury-Tungsten Lamp was used for lightfastness test by ISO 105 B01 method. Color fastness to rubbing /crocking was designed to determine thedegree of color which may be transferred to a specific pressure applied by crock meter .This test was donein both dry and wet state. The crocking cloth against which the test sample would be rubbed was a white,unbleached, undyed cotton fabric. In crocking cloth, 100% pick-up was maintained for wet rubbing. Colorfastness to rubbing has little effect on carded and combed yarn because the hairiness of carded yarn is more

than combed yarn. Color fastness to rubbing was tested by Crock meter in ISO105 X12:1992 method.

Pills are formedin fabric by entangling the loose fibres or hairy fibres. When the garment undergoes wear& washing these pills are formed on the fabric surface. Pilling is a fabric surface fault which gives thegarment unsightly appearance [1]. Carded and combed yarns have great effect for forming pills on fabricsurface. Pilling is tested by Martindale Abrasion & Pilling Tester by using SN 198525 method and 11000cycles were used for every specimen. Every sample when undergoes washing most of the cases they changetheir dimension. In general sense the changes in length or width of a fabric specimen subjected to specifycondition is known as dimensional changes. The dimensional changes resulting in an increase of length orwidth is called stretched condition if the dimensional changes result in decrease of length or width is calledshrinkage [1]. At first all the samples were conditioned for 4 hours in a standard temperature & RH% andthe length and width of the samples were measured before washing. After wash, again the length and widthof the samples were measured for identify the stretch or shrinkage%. More hairy and more twisted carded

yarn produced higher fabric shrinkage than that of combed yarn. Spirality is a particularly serious problemfor plain knitted fabrics due to asymmetric loops. Spirality is described by the size of the angle madebetween the Wales and a line drawn perpendicular to the courses. Spirality in a fabric is caused by therelaxation of torsion forces in the yarn which causes the individual fibres twisted round each other duringspinning, to try and returns to their original untwisted state. It is known that a fabric knitted with a highlytwisted yarn will have higher spirality [7]. Carded yarn TPI is more than combed yarn. AATCC 179method was used for measuring spirality. The term GSM of fabric means the weight of the fabric in gramsper square meter (Weight per unit area) [1]. GSM is the most important parameter which is maintained inthe factory or industry. It is maintained in the all stages in the processing of knit fabric. It is also measured

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after dyeing, before dyeing and every stages of finishing process like stentering, compacting etc. GSM wasmeasured by GSM cutter. Here grey GSM were measured in the knitting stages and finished GSM weremeasured after finishing for comparing them.

IV. DATA ANALYSISTable 1: Data for color fastness to wash (Color change)

Fabric type Combed s/j Carded s/j Combed rib Carded ribCombedinterlock

Cardedinterlock

Rating 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Table 2: Data for color fastness to wash (Staining)

Fibrecomposition

Di-acetateBleached

CottonPolyester Polyamide Acrylic Wool

Rating for

combed s/j 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5Rating forcarded s/j

4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Rating forcombed rib

4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Rating forcarded rib

4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Rating forcombedinterlock

4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Rating forcarded interlock

4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5[[[

Table 3: Data for color fastness to light

Fabric type Combed s/j Carded s/j Combed rib Carded ribCombedInterlock

CardedInterlock

Rating 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Table 4: Data for color fastness to rubbing (Staining)


CardedInterlock

Rating for dryrub

4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4-5

Rating for wet

rub

3-4 3 3-4 3-4 4-5 4-5

Table 5: Data for pilling Resistance test (11000 cycles were used for every sample)


CardedInterlock

Rating 4 3-4 3-4 3 4 3-4

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Table 6: Data for Shrinkage (%)

Fabric type Combed s/j Carded s/j Combed rib Carded rib CombedInterlock

CardedInterlock

Length wiseShrinkage (%)

-5 -6.5 -4 -2 -4.6 -4.3

Width wiseShrinkage (%)

1.8 2 10.5 8.5 4.8 5.1

Table 7: Data for GSM.


CardedInterlock

Grey GSM 156 154 168 165 220 216

Finished GSM 189 179 229 220 260 250

Table 8: Data for Spirality (single jersey fabric)

Fabric type Combed s/j Carded s/j

Spirality() 6 7

V. RESULTS

Figure-01: Carded and combed yarn effect on color fastness to wash (color change)

Figure-02: Carded and combed yarn effect on color fastness to wash (staining on bleached Cotton)

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Figure-03: Carded and combed yarn effect on color fastness to light

Figure-04: Carded and combed yarn effect on color fastness to rubbing

In figure-01, 02 and 03, it is clearly observed that the finished knit fabrics made by carded yarn andcombed yarn have no significant change due to color fastness to wash and color fastness to light. Butin case of color fastness to rubbing, a little effect is found on finished knit fabric made by a same count

carded and combed yarn. Some cases combed yarn shows better result than carded yarn. In figure-04,gives the clear conception about the color fastness to rubbing.

Figure-05: Carded and combed yarn effect on resistance of pilling

In figure: 05, it is easily observed that the resistance of pilling effect on single jersey, rib and interlockfabric produced by combed yarn gives better result than same count carded yarn.

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Figure-06: Carded and combed yarn effect on shrinkage (%)

In figure: 06, it is clearly observed that shrinkage of all types of fabric produced from carded yarn ismore than that produced from combed yarn. While the yarn count is same.

Figure-07: Carded and combed yarn effect on GSM.

In figure-07, it is clearly observed that combed yarn produces higher GSM fabric than carded yarn, whileusing the same count for both yarn types.

Figure-08: Carded and combed yarn effect on spirality

In figure-08, it is clearly observed that spirality of the fabric produced from combed yarn is lower thanthat produced from carded yarn.

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VI. CONCLUSIONThe analyticalresult reveals that carded yarn can easily be used in place of combed yarn by changing someknitting parameters. For this, production cost will be decreased because carded yarn production cost isgenerally lower than combed yarn. Carded and combed yarns of same count have many different properties

which affect on fabric properties. This study work was analyzed a few number of yarn properties and fabricproperties. There are further scopes to work on the comfort characteristics like absorption characteristics,thermal conductivity, fabric handle properties etc. The result of our simple bar diagram shows that usingsame count of carded yarn and combed yarn fabric have no change occur in terms of color fastness to washand light. There is a little effect on color fastness to rubbing, pilling resistance, shrinkage properties andspirality. Combed yarns are stronger, less hairy and more uniform than carded yarns. That is why, combedyarns shows better result on color fastness to rubbing, pilling resistance and shrinkage properties thancarded yarns. Spirality is particularly measured for single jersey fabric. Carded yarn single jersey fabricshows more spirality than combed yarn single jersey fabric because of high twist. Carded yarn and combedyarn have great effect on GSM. More loose hairy fibres are removed from carded yarn by knitting processand pretreatment process than combed yarn. As a result fabric produced from combed yarn shows moreGSM than fabric produced from carded yarn after finishing. In our analysis, GSM differences of cardedyarn fabric and combed yarn fabric in grey and finished stage vary from 2 to 10 respectively. From this

discussion, it can be said that in case of producing fabric from carded yarn should maintain higher GSMthan combed yarn fabric to achieve same finished GSM.

VII. REFERENCES[1] J.E. Booth Principles of Textile Testing, India: CBS publishers and Distributors, 1996, pp.209-235

[2] David. J. Spencer Knitting Technology, Cambridge: Woodhead, 2008, pp.1-61

[3] Klein. W. Manual of Textile Technology, UK: The Textile Institute, 2008, pp, 286-289.

[4] D.B. Ajgaonkar Knitting Technology, New Delhi: Universal Publishing Corporation, 2006, pp.180-

181

[5] E.R. Trotman Dyeing and chemical Technology of Textile Fibres, London: Charles Griffin andCompany Ltd., 1975, pp, 616-626

[6] Munden, D.L. The Geometry and Dimensional Properties of Plain Knit Fabrics Journal of the Textile

Institute 50, 1959.T448-471.

[7] Banerjee, P.K. and Alaiban, T.S. Geometry and Dimensional Properties of Plain Loops, Made of Rotor

Spun Cotton Yarns Textile Res. J. 58(5): 287-290 (1988).

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