1 The Best Full-Day Tours · 2020-02-28 · Adriana Pi z S. alv tore Piazza S. Salvatore Piazzad d....
Transcript of 1 The Best Full-Day Tours · 2020-02-28 · Adriana Pi z S. alv tore Piazza S. Salvatore Piazzad d....
1 The Best Full-Day Tours
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 7
COPYRIG
HTED M
ATERIAL
M
M
Piazza di S.Cosimato
Piazzad. Risorgimento
PiazzaS. Uffizio
Piazzad. Risorgimento
Piazzad. Quiriti
Piazza Coladi Rienzo
Piazzad. Quiriti
PiazzaS. Pietro
PzaPia
PiazzaAdrianaPza
Pia
PiazzaAdriana
Piazza S.SalvatorePiazza S.Salvatore
Piazza d.Chiesa Nuova
Piazza d.Chiesa Nuova
PiazzaS. Uffizio
PiazzaGregorio
VII
PiazzaGregorio
VII
Piazza S.Maria aFornaci
Piazza S.Maria aFornaci
Piazzad. Rovere
Piazzad'Oro
Piazzad. Rovere
Piazzad'Oro
Piazza P.Paoli
Piazza P.Paoli
Piazza Coladi Rienzo
Piazzad. Liberta
Piazzad. Liberta
PIAZZADEL POPOLO
Piazza V.Hugo
Piazzale d.Canestre
Piazzale d.Martiri
Piazza d.Piazza d.CinqueCinque
GiornateGiornate
Piazza d.Cinque
Giornate
Piazza diSpagna
PiazzaleFlaminio
Piazzza
Augusto
PiazzaBorghese
PiazzaCavourPiazzaCavour
Piazza d.Repubblica
Piazza BGigli
Piazza d.Viminale
Piazza delEsquilino
Piazza S. MariaMaggiore
Pza di Pta.Metronia
Piazza di Pta.Capena
Piazza SS.Giov.
e Paolo
Piazzad. Colosseo
Piazza d.Quirinale
Piazza diTrevi
PiazzaFiume
PzaPilo
Piazza diPta.
Portese
Piazza diPta.
Portese Piazza d.Emporio
Piazza d.Tempiodi Diana
PiazzaleUgo laMalfa
PiazzaBocca d.
Verita
PiazzaMercati
Piazza S.Anastasia
PiazzaCapizucchi
PiazzaVenezia
Piazzad'Aracoeli
Piazza B.Cairoli
Largo d.Torre Argentina
PiazzaTrilussaPiazza da
Renzi
PiazzaTrilussa
PiazzaMastai
Piazza di S.Cosimato
PiazzaMastai
Pza G.G.Belli
Piazza di S.Cosimato
Piazzale G.Garibaldi
Piazzale G.Garibaldi
Piazza S.Egidio
Piazza S.Egidio
Piazza daRenzi
PiazzaColonnaPiazza di
Montecitorio
Piazza d.Rotonda
Piazza d.Parlamento
Piazza S.Silvestro
Piazza diMinerva
Piazza d.Coll.
Romano
Piazza d.Pilotta
Largo d.Tritone
Piazzale d.EroiPiazzale d.Eroi
Piazza S.M.d. GraziePiazza S.M.d. Grazie
LargoTrionfale
LargoTrionfale
Adriana
Adriana
PiazzaMastaiPiazza di S.
CosimatoPiazza di S.Cosimato
PIAZZABARBERINI
VIAVENETO
Piazz
a
Piazz
a
PiazzaleBrasile
V. d. Croce
V.d. Carrozze
V. Condotti
Borgognona
V. Frattina
V. d. Vite
V M. de Fiori
V. Campanella
V. Campanella
V. VirgilioV. O
razio
V. Visconti
V. G. Belli
V. VirgilioV. O
razio
V. Lucr. Caro
V. Lucr. Caro
V. Visconti
V. G. Belli
Via CrescenzioVia Crescenzio
Borgo VittorioBorgo VittorioBorgo PioBorgo Pio
V. Corridori V. Corridori
Borgo Santo Spirito Borgo Santo Spirito
Via SiciliaVia Sardegna
V. Lombardia
V. Ludovisi
V. Innocenzo III
V. Innocenzo III
V. Nuova delle Fornaci V. Nuova delle Fornaci
V d. VascelloV d. Vascello
V. dei Quattro Venti
V. dei Quattro Venti
V. d. Genovesi
V
V. d.Salumi Via dei Cerchi
V. Petti
nari
V. Petti
nari
Via Giulia
Via Giulia Via Monserrato
Via Monserrato
V. dei G. Vecchio
V. dei G. Vecchio
Via
della
Scr
ofa
Via Cernaia
Via C. B
albo
Via U
rban
a
Via Panisperna
Via Margutta
Via dei Babuino
Via Vittoria
V. Tomacelli
Via del Corso
V. Brunetti
Borgo Angelico
Borgo Angelico
Via A. CerianiVia A. Ceriani
Via delle Fornaci Via delle Fornaci
Viale delle Mura Aurelie
Viale delle Mura Aurelie
V d. Due Macelli
Via dei SS. Quattro
V. Mordini
V. Mordini
Via del Circo Massimo
V. Oscure
Via Claudia
Via Labicana
V. d. Navicella Vi
a di
S. G
rego
rio
Lung Michelangelo
Lung Michelangelo
Lung. Armaldo da Brescia
Lung. Armaldo da Brescia
Lung. Mellini
Lung. Pra
ti
Lung. Mellini
Lung. Pra
ti
Lung. Castello Lung. Castello
Lung
. Vaticano
L. di Tor di Nona L. di Tor di Nona
Lung
. Vaticano
Lung. d. Sangallo
Lung. Gianicolense Lung. d. Sangallo
Lung. dei Tebaldi
Lung. d. Farnesina
Lung. dei Tebaldi
Lung. Gianicolense
Lung. d. Farnesina L. d.Vallati
L. d.Vallati Lung. dei Cenci
P. d. R
ipa Grande
Lung. A
vent
ino
Lung
Testaccio
L R. Sanzio
L R. Sanzio
Via Portu
ense
V. Trionfale
Via Andrea Doria
V. Trionfale
V.Flaminia
V
V. V
espa
sian
oV.
Ves
pasi
ano
V. O
ttav
iano
V.B
arle
tta
V. Leone IV V. O
ttav
iano
V di
Pta
.A
ngel
ica
V di
Pta
.A
ngel
ica
V.B
arle
tta
Ponte
G. MatteottiPonte
G. Matteotti
Viale delle Milizie
Via Cola di Rienzo
Viale Guilio Cesare
Via Germanico
Via de Gracchi
Viale delle Milizie
V. Leone IV Via Cola di Rienzo
Ponte Reg.
MargheritaPonte Reg.
Margherita
PonteCavourPonte
Cavour
Via della ConciliazioneVia della Conciliazione
V. Pta Cavalleggeri
V. Pta Cavalleggeri
Via Salaria
Corso D'Italia Via
P
incia
na
Via Piave
V Savoia
Viale dei Muro Torto
Via Barberini Via XX S
ettembre
Via del Q
uirinale
Via Nazio
nale
Via CavourVia dei Fori Imperiali
Via Gar
ibald
i
Via Garibaldi
Via Gar
ibald
i
Via
di S. P
ancrazio
Via
di S. P
ancrazio
Via Garibaldi
Viale T
rast
ever
e
Viale T
rast
ever
e
Ponte
Sublicio
V. T
eatro
di M
arcel
lo
Ponte
Palatino
V Ar
enul
a
Cor. Vitt. Emanuele II
Cor. Vitt. Emanuele II
V d.
A
rgen
tina
Cor dei Rinascimento
Cor dei Rinascimento
G. Zanardelli
G. Zanardelli
Via del Tritone
Via IV Nov.
V. d. Quattro Fontane
V.d. Vim
inale
V. Orlando
Via
C
avour
Via Giov. Lanza
Via Andrea Doria
Pte Sis
to
Pte Sis
to
Pte G.
MazziniPte G.
Mazzini
Pont
eGa
ribal
diPo
nte
Garib
aldi
Pte S.
Angelo
Pte S.
Angelo
Pte
Umberto
I
Pte
Umberto
I
Viale Guilio Cesare
Via Germanico
Via de Gracchi
Lung Marzi
o
Lung Marzi
o
V. XXIV
Maggio
Lung
. Rip
a
Via Aurelia Via Aurelia
Via L. Bissolati
L. Pierleoni
L d. Anguillara
V
ia Vittorio
V
enet
o
PalazzoBarberini
NationalRoman
Museum
Santa MariaMaggiore
Teatro diMarcello
Mausoleumof Augustus
Pantheon
Palazzo delQuirinale
Baths ofTrajan
Colosseum
Tiber (Tevere) River
SpanishSteps
CastelSant’ Angelo
CastelSant’ Angelo
Forum ofAugustus
Palazzodi Giustizia
Palazzodi Giustizia
ISOLATIBERINA
VILLADORIA
PAMPHILI
VILLADORIA
PAMPHILI
VILLAABAMELEK
VILLA MEDICI
VILLARUFFO
GALOPPATOIO
GIARDINI DELQUIRINALE
VILLACOLONNA
PARCOGIANICOLENSE
PARCOGIANICOLENSE
VILLASCIARRA
VILLASCIARRA
PARCO DELCELIO
PARCOOPPIO
PARCO D.S. ALESSIO
St. Peter’sBasilica
VaticanMuseums
St. Peter’sBasilica
VaticanMuseums
SistineChapelSistineChapel
PRATI
VATICANCITY
PRATI
JANICULUMHILL
JANICULUMHILL
PIAZZAPIAZZANAVONANAVONA
PIAZZAPIAZZACAMPO D.CAMPO D.
FIORIFIORI
PIAZZANAVONA
AVENTINEHILL
PALATINEHILL
ANCIENTROME
TRASTEVERETRASTEVERE
VATICANCITY
PIAZZACAMPO D.
FIORI
VILLABORGHESE
PARIOLI
Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill)
Roman Forum
Colosseum
Imperial Fora
Vittoriano
Caffè Italia
Pantheon
Vatican Museums
3
2
4
1
7
8
5
6
Circo Massimo
Via Cavour
Colosseo
M
0.25 km
Spagna
Barberini
Lepanto
Ottaviano
Lepanto
Ottaviano
Flaminio
0
0
1/4 mi
Termini
Repubblica
M
10
8
9
13
12
8
The Best in One DayTh
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
Previous page: Columns at the Pantheon.
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 8
9The B
est in O
ne D
ay
M
M
M
Piazza di S.Cosimato
Piazzad. Risorgimento
PiazzaS. Uffizio
Piazzad. Quiriti
Piazza Coladi Rienzo
PzaPia
PiazzaAdriana
Piazza S.Salvatore
Piazza d.Chiesa Nuova
PiazzaGregorio
VII
Piazza S.Maria aFornaci
Piazzad. Rovere
Piazzad'Oro
Piazza P.Paoli
Piazzad. Liberta
PIAZZADEL POPOLO
PIAZZADEL POPOLO
Piazza V.Hugo
Piazzale d.Canestre
Piazza V.Hugo
Piazzale d.Martiri
Piazzale d.Martiri
Piazzale d.Canestre
Piazza d.Cinque
Giornate
Piazza diSpagna
Piazza diSpagna
PiazzaleFlaminioPiazzaleFlaminio
Piazzza
Augusto
PiazzaBorghese
Piazzza
AugustoPiazzaCavour
Piazza d.Repubblica
Piazza BGigli
Piazza d.Repubblica
Piazza d.ViminalePiazza d.Viminale
Piazza BGigli
Piazza delEsquilino
Piazza delEsquilino
Piazza S. MariaMaggiore
Piazza S. MariaMaggiore
Pza di Pta.Metronia
Pza di Pta.Metronia
Piazza di Pta.Capena
Piazza SS.Giov.
e Paolo
Piazza di Pta.Capena
PleMet
Piazzad. Colosseo
Piazzad. Colosseo
Piazza SS.Giov.
e Paolo
Piazza d.QuirinalePiazza d.Quirinale
Piazza diTrevi
Piazza diTrevi
PiazzaFiumePiazzaFiume
Piazza diPta.
Portese Piazza d.Emporio
Piazza d.Tempiodi Diana
Piazza d.Emporio
PzaTestaccio
PzaAlbania
Piazza d.Tempiodi Diana
PzaRomuria Lgo E
Pza SBalbina
Ple NuPompilio
PiazzaleUgo laMalfa
PiazzaleUgo laMalfa
PiazzaBocca d.
Verita
PiazzaMercati
PiazzaBocca d.
Verita
Piazza S.AnastasiaPiazza S.
Anastasia
PiazzaCapizucchi
PiazzaVenezia
Piazzad'Aracoeli
PiazzaCapizucchi
Piazza B.Cairoli
Piazza B.Cairoli
Largo d.Torre Argentina
Largo d.Torre Argentina
PiazzaTrilussaPiazza da
Renzi
PiazzaVenezia
Piazzad'Aracoeli
PiazzaMastai
Piazza di S.Cosimato Piazza
Mercati
Pza G.G.Belli
Piazzale G.Garibaldi
Piazza S.Egidio
PiazzaColonnaPiazza di
Montecitorio
PiazzaColonnaPiazza di
Montecitorio
PiazzaBorghese
Piazza d.RotondaPiazza d.Rotonda
Piazza d.Parlamento
Piazza S.SilvestroPiazza d.
Parlamento
Piazza diMinerva
Piazza d.Coll.
Romano
Piazza diMinerva
Piazza d.Coll.
Romano
Piazza d.Pilotta
Piazza d.Pilotta
Piazza S.Silvestro
Largo d.Tritone
Largo d.Tritone
Piazzale d.Eroi
Piazza S.M.d. Grazie
LargoTrionfale
Adriana
PiazzaMastai
PIAZZABARBERINI
VIAVENETO
PIAZZABARBERINI
VIAVENETO
Piazz
a
PiazzaleBrasile
PiazzaleBrasile
V. d. Croce
V.d. Carrozze
V. Condotti
Borgognona
V. Frattina
V. d. Vite
V. d. Croce
V.d. Carrozze
V. Condotti
Borgognona
V. Frattina
V. d. Vite
V M. de Fiori
V M. de Fiori
V. Campanella
V. VirgilioV. O
razio
V. Visconti
V. G. Belli
V. Lucr. Caro
Via Crescenzio
Borgo VittorioBorgo Pio
V. Corridori
Borgo Santo Spirito
Via SiciliaVia Sardegna
Via Sicilia
V. Lombardia
V. Lombardia
V. LudovisiV. Ludovisi
V. Innocenzo III
V. Nuova delle Fornaci V d. Vascello
V. dei Quattro Venti
V. d. Genovesi
V. d. Genovesi
V. d.Salumi
V. d.Salumi Via dei Cerchi
Via dei Cerchi
V. Petti
nari
Via Giulia Via Monserrato
V. dei G. Vecchio
Via
della
Scr
ofa
Via
della
Scr
ofa
Via Cernaia
Via Cernaia
Via C. B
albo
Via U
rban
a Via C. B
albo
Via U
rban
a
Via Panisperna
Via Panisperna
Via Margutta
Via dei Babuino
Via Vittoria
V. Tomacelli
Via del Corso
Via Margutta
Via dei Babuino
Via Vittoria
V. Tomacelli
Via del Corso
V. Brunetti V. Brunetti
Borgo Angelico
Via A. Ceriani
Via delle Fornaci Viale de lle M
ura Aurelie
V d. Due Macelli
V d. Due Macelli
Via dei SS. Quattro
Via dei SS. Quattro
Via Sardegna
V. Mordini
Via del Circo Massimo
Via del Circo Massimo
V. Oscure V. Oscure
Via Claudia
Via Labicana
Via Claudia V. d. Navicella
V. d. Navicella
Via Labicana
Via Dru
soVia d. Terme di Caracella
Viale Aventino
Via
di S
. Gre
gorio
Via
di S
. Gre
gorio
Cest
ia
Gelsomini
Via
Marm
orata
Lung Michelangelo
Lung. Armaldo da Brescia
Lung. Mellini
Lung. Pra
ti
Lung. Castello
Lung
. Vaticano
L. di Tor di Nona
Lung. d. Sangallo
Lung. Gianicolense
Lung. dei Tebaldi
Lung. d. Farnesina L. d.Vallati Lung. dei Cenci Lung. dei Cenci
P. d. R
ipa Grande
P. d. R
ipa Grande
Lung. A
vent
ino
Lung. Ave
ntin
o
L R. Sanzio
V. Trionfale
Via Andrea Doria
V.Flaminia
V.Flaminia
V. V
espa
sian
o
V. O
ttav
iano
V.B
arle
tta
V. Leone IV
V di
Pta
.A
ngel
ica
Ponte
G. Matteotti
Viale delle Milizie
Via Cola di Rienzo
Viale Guilio Cesare
Via Germanico
Via de GracchiPonte Reg.
Margherita
PonteCavour
Via della Conciliazione
V. Pta Cavalleggeri
Via Salaria
Corso D'Italia Via
P
incia
na
Via Piave
Via Salaria
Corso D'Italia Via
P
incia
na
V Savoia
Viale dei Muro Torto
Viale dei Muro Torto
Via Barberini
Via Barberini Via XX S
ettembre
Via XX S
ettembre
Via del Q
uirinale
Via Nazio
naleVia del Q
uirinale
Via Nazio
nale
Via CavourVia dei Fori Imperiali
Via Cavour
Via Piave
Via Gar
ibald
i
Via Garibaldi
Via
di S. P
ancrazio
Viale T
rast
ever
e
Ponte
SublicioPonte
Sublicio
V. T
eatro
di M
arcel
lo
V. T
eatro
di M
arcel
lo
V Petroselli
Via dei Fori Imperiali
Ponte
Palatino
Ponte
Palatino
V Ar
enul
a
Cor. Vitt. Emanuele II
V d.
A
rgen
tina
V
d.
Arg
entin
a
Cor dei Rinascimento
G. Zanardelli
Via del C
orsoVia del Tritone
Via del Tritone
Via IV Nov.
Via IV Nov.
V. d. Quattro Fontane
V. d. Quattro Fontane
V.d. Vim
inale
V.d. Vim
inale
V. Orlando
V. Orlando
Via
C
avour
Via
C
avour
Via Giov. Lanza Via Giov. Lanza
Pte Sis
to
Pte G.
Mazzini
Pont
eGa
ribal
di
Pte S.
Angelo
Pte
Umberto
I Lung Marzi
o
V. XXIV
Maggio
V. XXIV
Maggio
Lung
. Rip
a Lu
ng. R
ipa
Via Aurelia
Via L. Bissolati
Via L. Bissolati
L. Pierleoni
L. Pierleoni
L d. Anguillara
L d. Anguillara
V
ia Vittorio
V
enet
o
V
ia Vittorio
V
enet
o M
M
M
MPalazzo
BarberiniPalazzo
Barberini
NationalRoman
Museum
NationalRoman
Museum
Santa MariaMaggiore
Santa MariaMaggiore
Teatro diMarcelloTeatro diMarcello
Mausoleumof AugustusMausoleumof Augustus
PantheonPantheon
Palazzo delQuirinale
Palazzo delQuirinale
Baths ofTrajan
Baths ofTrajan
ColosseumColosseumArch of
Constantine
Tiber (
Teve
re) R
iver
SpanishStepsSpanishSteps
CastelSant’ Angelo
Forum ofAugustus
ROMAN FORUM
CIRCUS MAXIMUS
BATHS OFCARACALLA
Palazzodi Giustizia
Forum ofAugustus
ISOLATIBERINA
ISOLATIBERINA
VILLADORIA
PAMPHILI
VILLA MEDICI
VILLA MEDICI
VILLARUFFO
GALOPPATOIO
VILLARUFFO
GIARDINI DELQUIRINALE
VILLACOLONNA
GIARDINI DELQUIRINALE
VILLACOLONNA
PARCOGIANICOLENSE
VILLASCIARRA
PARCO DELCELIO
PARCO DELCELIO
PARCOOPPIOPARCOOPPIO
PARCO D.S. ALESSIOPARCO D.
S. ALESSIO
PARCO DIPORTA
CAPENA
GALOPPATOIO
St. Peter’sBasilica
VaticanMuseums
SistineChapel
PRATI
VATICANCITY
JANICULUMHILL
PIAZZANAVONA
PIAZZACAMPO D.
FIORI
AVENTINEAVENTINEHILLHILL
PALATINEPALATINEHILLHILL
ANCIENTANCIENTROMEROME
AVENTINEHILL
TRASTEVERE
PALATINEHILL
ANCIENTROME
VILLABORGHESE
PARIOLI
VILLABORGHESE
PARIOLI
Piazza Navona
Giolitti
Trevi Fountain 15
14
13St. Peter's Basilica
Castel Sant'Angelo
(your hotel room)
Campo de' Fiori
11
10
9
12
Circo MassimoCirco Massimo
Via Cavour
Colosseo
Via Cavour
ColosseoM
M
Spagna
Barberini
Spagna
Barberini
Lepanto
Ottaviano
FlaminioFlaminio
Termini
Repubblica
Termini
Repubblica
1
23
4
7
5
15
6
14
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 9
Travel Tip
Seasonal opening hours of someattractions may require modificationof the itinerary below: For example,because of the Vatican Museums’shorter winter hours, from Novem-ber to February, you’ll need to dothe Vatican in the morning andancient Rome in the afternoon.
10
Seeing the top sights of Rome in 1 day requires an early start,discipline, and a bit of stamina, but it’s actually quite doable. This
“greatest hits” itinerary begins with an overview of the highlights ofancient Rome; after lunch, cross town and spend a few hours at theVatican. Conclude your day with a leisurely evening walking tour ofthe gorgeously floodlit fountains and piazzas of the centro storico.START: Take bus 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 87, 95, 170, 492, or 628 to Piazza del-
l’Ara Coeli and climb the stairs to Piazza del Campidoglio.
The
Bes
t Fu
ll-D
ay T
ou
rs
1 ★★★ Campidoglio (Capito-line Hill). The most sacred ofRome’s hills was given its presentlook in the 1500s, when Michelan-gelo designed the star-patternedsquare and surrounding buildings ofthe Capitoline Museums (see p 31,bullet 6). The bronze statue ofMarcus Aurelius in the center of thepiazza is a copy; the 2nd-century-A.D. original is inside the museum.The western slopes of the hill, with
their steep red tufa walls and tan-gled vegetation, still look much thesame as they would have in the pri-mordial days before the rise ofRome. Don’t miss the majestic viewof the Roman Forum from the south-facing terraces on either side of thebell-towered Palazzo Senatorio (cityhall). @ 15–30 min. Also gorgeous—and deserted—at night. Bus: 30, 40,62, 64, 70, 87, 170, 492, or 571.
2 ★★★ Roman Forum. Whilethe Forum is not one of the better-preserved archaeological sites ofancient Rome, it is the most histori-cally significant. The Forum was thenerve center of the most powerfulWestern civilization in history for thebetter part of a thousand years,where political decisions were made,public speeches were heard, andmarket activities took place. Theremains here—of 2,000-year-old
The
Bes
t Fu
ll-D
ay T
ou
rs
The ruins of the Roman forum were excavated in the 19th century.
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 10
temples, law courts, and victorymonuments—are impressive butskeletal, and can be difficult to deci-pher. @ 30–45 min. See p 24, bullet7 for full details.
3 ★★★ Colosseum. The Flavianamphitheater (A.D. 72–80) never failsto impress—for its elegant, enduringbulk, and its disturbing former func-tion as a theater of slaughter. At theheight of the Roman Empire, gameswere held almost every other day; intimes of special celebration, gamescould last for weeks or months onend. Free tesserae (tickets) were dis-tributed to about 65,000 Romans,who could be seated in the arena in amatter of minutes, thanks to an effi-cient system of 80 numbered vomito-ria (entrance/exit passageways).Against slashing swords and gnash-ing lions’ teeth, gladiators and bes-tiarii (animal fighters) fought to thedeath, hoping to someday win theirfreedom. (In the Colosseum’s 400-year history, fewer than 100 men everdid.) A visit inside the massive struc-ture is certainly rewarding, but ifyou’re pressed for time or cash, awalk around the exterior is fine. Ifthere’s a long queue, buy your ticketsat the Palatine (p 26, bullet 8 ) andgo straight to the turnstiles. @ 30–45min. See p 26, bullet 0 for fulldetails.
4 ★★ Imperial Fora. Mussoliniblazed the broad thoroughfare ofVia dell’Impero—now Via dei ForiImperiali—to trumpet the glories ofhis ancient forebears and propagatehis own ambitions of empire. Alongthe east side of the boulevard, theruins of the forums built by emper-ors Nerva, Augustus, and Trajan canbe seen protruding from the ancientstreet level, 7.6m (25 ft.) below. Onthe west side, near the Colosseum,don’t miss the fascinating marblemaps (also from the Fascist period)charting the spread of the RomanEmpire, which reached as far east asIran (Parthia). @ 30 min. Via dei ForiImperiali.
5 ★ Vittoriano. Locals revile the 100-year-old monument to Victor Emanuel II, the first king ofunited Italy, as a tasteless and over-the-top neoclassical “typewriter,”but tourists can’t seem to take theireyes off the plus-size marble confec-tion on the south side of PiazzaVenezia. Take the elevator to theuppermost level, the Terrazza delleQuadrighe, for the most thrillingview in Rome. @ 30–45 min. Admis-sion for upper terrace only 7�. Daily10am–4:30pm. Bus: 30, 40, 60, 62,64, 70, 85, 87, or 492.
11The B
est in O
ne D
ay
The Colosseum takes on a spectral glow at dusk.
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/29/08 7:22 PM Page 11
@ ★★★ Campo de’ Fiori. Byearly evening (6–6:30pm), thissquare in the very heart of the
! Your hotel room. By now, it’s4 or 5pm—a good time to return to your hotel, rest your feet, andfreshen up before heading back outfor dinner and your evening walkingtour. Just don’t crash completely. Ifit’s after 5pm, and you’re feelingenergetic, skip the hotel and pro-ceed directly to @, below.
6 ★ Caffè Italia. Take a breatherat this alfresco cafe halfway up thesummit of the Vittoriano, to the leftof the gigantic bronze statue of theking on horseback. Il Vittoriano.
y 06-6780905. $–$$.
7 ★★★ Pantheon. As the best-preserved and most elegantancient building in the city—if notthe world—the Pantheon (“templeto all gods”) merits multiple visits. It was designed and possibly builtby Hadrian from A.D. 118 to 125, in a form governed by circles andsquares—shapes which, as Vitru-vius wrote (and Leonardo laterimmortalized in his drawing the Vit-ruvian Man), the human body mostnaturally occupies. The Pantheon’sperfectly hemispherical, poured-concrete dome is 43m (141 ft.) talland wide—1m (3 ft.) wider than thedome of St. Peter’s. @ 15–30 min.See p 54, bullet !. Take a taxi from the Pantheon to the VaticanMuseums.
8 ★★★ Vatican Museums.After lunch, the crowds have left the Vatican, making it much more
pleasant to explore. Stay focused,however, and make sure you see thestarring ancient sculptures—thegut-wrenching emotion anddynamism of Laocoon, the transcen-dent composure of ApolloBelvedere—in the Pio-Clementinesection of the museums, and thenhightail it for the Vatican’s biggestguns, Raphael’s stanze andMichelangelo’s frescoes in the Sis-tine Chapel. The art here, by two ofthe greatest painters in history, is atriumph of Renaissance achieve-ment, bold in color, lofty in concept,and monumental in scale. @ 11⁄2 hr.See p 49, bullet 6 for a more com-prehensive review.
9 ★★★ St. Peter’s Basilica.The incomprehensibly voluminousVatican basilica is packed with incal-culable riches, from the marble andgold that cover its every surface tomasterpieces like Michelangelo’sPietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino.
@ 30 min. Dome visit not absolutelynecessary. See p 48, bullet 2.
0 ★★ Castel Sant’Angelo.You probably won’t have the time orenergy to go inside, but the view ofthis mausoleum-turned-fortress,from Ponte Sant’Angelo—whereangels by Bernini wince and moan—is not to be missed. @ 15 min. See p 53, bullet 1 for full details.
12Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
Michelangelo’s Pietà.
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 12
$ ★★ Giolitti. At the city’s best-loved gelato shop, the setting is ele-gant and the ritual is fun. Pay thecashier up front, then negotiateyour way through the crowds inback, where gracious servers scoopup enormous helpings of almost100 flavors. Via degli Uffici del Vic-ario 40. y 06-6991243. $.
centro storico is abuzz with all kindsof people taking an aperitivo at themany outdoor bars. (I recommendVineria Reggio and Taverna delCampo, p 114.) Later in the evening,it’s a younger scene. Campo de’ Fioriand nearby Piazza Navona, the start-ing points of your evening tour, arealso prime zones for dinner. @ 1 hr.See p 101. Bus: 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 87,116, or 492. $–$$.
# ★★★ Piazza Navona. Themost famous baroque square inRome, built on the site of the
ancient athletic stadium of Domit-ian, boasts Bernini’s fantastic Fountain of the Four Rivers and Bor-romini’s church of Sant’Agnese inAgone, as well as the smallerFontana del Moro and Fontana diNettuno. There are also a number of cafes to tempt you with after-dinner treats—it’s unabashedlytouristy, but the setting sure ispretty. @ 20–30 min. See p 38, bul-let 1, and p 53, bullet 6. Bus: 30,40, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, or 492.
13The B
est in O
ne D
ay
The Trevi Fountain lit up at night.
St. Peter’s Basilica fronting St. Peter’s Square.
% ★★★ Trevi Fountain.Rome’s most celebrated fountain,designed by Nicola Salvi and builtfrom 1732–62, is impressive enoughduring the day, but at night, thefloodlights make it look cleaner anddoubly spectacular—so gorgeousthat you won’t even mind thecrowds. @ 20 min. Piazza di Trevi.Bus: 62, 85, 95, 175, or 492.
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 13
M
V. d. Seminario V. d. Seminario
Via Sardegna
Via Sardegna
1110
8
14
9
VILLABORGHESE
PARIOLI
PIAZZA DELPOPOLO
PIAZZABARBERINI
VIAVENETO
PIAZZA DELPOPOLO
VILLABORGHESE
PARIOLI
PalazzoBarberini
Pantheon
SpanishSteps
SpanishSteps
Piazzade Quirinale
Via del Quirin
ale
Via Nazio
nale
BarberiniBarberini
65
4
2
1
LepantoLepanto
PIAZZABARBERINI
ColosseoColosseoANCIENT
ROMEANCIENT
ROME
AVENTINEHILL
PALATINEHILL
AVENTINEHILL
Santa Cecilia
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere
Ombre Rosse
Via Giulia
Piazza Farnese
Campo de' Fiori
Taverna del Campo
Galleria Borghese
Villa Borghese
Pincio Terrace
Piazza del Popolo
Bar Stravinskij
Enoteca Antica di Via della Croce
Spanish Steps
2
4
5
1
6
10
9
11
8
Circo MassimoCirco Massimo
TRASTEVERETRASTEVERE
PalazzoBarberini
Pantheon
Palazzo delQuirinale
TreviFountain
Palazzo delQuirinale
TreviFountain
VILLA MEDICI
VILLA MEDICI
GIARDINI DELQUIRINALE
VILLACOLONNA
GIARDINI DELQUIRINALE
VILLACOLONNA
CIRCUS MAXIMUS
ROMANFORUM
ColosseumColosseum
GALOPPATOIO
Mausoleumof AugustusMausoleumof Augustus
Palazzo diMontecitorio
Palazzo diMontecitorio
Largo delTritone
Via del C
orso
Piazza diSpagna
Piazza diSpagna
V. d. Tritone
V. Condotti
Largo delTritone
Piazzade Quirinale
PiazzaleBrasile
PiazzaleBrasile
CastelSant’ Angelo
Palazzodi Giustizia
PiazzaCavour
CastelSant’ Angelo
Palazzodi Giustizia
PiazzaCavour
Via del C
orso Via del Quirin
ale
Via Nazio
nale
VIAVENETO
Via Font Borghese
Via Font Borghese
V. d. Babuino
V. d. Babuino
PiazzaleFlaminioPiazzaleFlaminio
Via del C
orso
Viale del Muro Torto
V. d
. Rip
etta
Ponte Reg.
MargheritaPonte Reg.
Margherita
Ponte CavourPonte Cavour
Ponte
Umberto I
Ponte
Umberto I
PonteS. A
ngeloPonte
S. Angelo
V. d. Tritone
Via del C
orso
Viale del Muro Torto
Via Pin
cian
a
Via Pin
cian
a
V. d
. Muse
o Borg
hese
V. d
. Muse
o Borg
hese
ISOLATIBERINA
Lung. dei Tebaldi
Via
Arenu
la
Lung. de Cenci L. R. Sanzio
L. R. Sanzio
Piazza G.G.Belli
L. d. Pierleoni
V. G
aribald
i
Pont
eGa
ribal
diPo
nte
Garib
aldi
Ponte
Palatino
Ponte
Palatino
0.25 km
0
0
1/4 mi
V. d
. Rip
etta
V. Condotti
Piazza dellaRotonda
Piazza dellaRotonda
Corso Vittorio Emanuele
Via del Pellegrino Largo di
TorreArgentina
Largo diTorre
ArgentinaV. d. Plebiscito V. C. Battisti
Corso Vittorio Emanuele
Pte Sisto
Pte Sisto
ISOLATIBERINA
Lung. R
ipa
L
ung. Ave
ntino
Via dei Cerchi Via
di S
. Gre
gori
o
V. d
. Tra
stev
ere
V. d
. Tra
stev
ere
Via del Pellegrino Lung. dei Tebaldi
V. d. Plebiscito V. C. Battisti
Via
Arenu
la Piazza di
d’Aracoeli Via dei Fori Imperiali
Piazza delCampidoglio
Piazza diSan Marco
Piazza did’Aracoeli Via dei Fori Imperiali
Teatro diMarcelloTeatro diMarcelloLung. de Cenci
Piazza G.G.Belli
L. d. Pierleoni
V. Gar
ibaldi
Lung. d. Farnesina
Lung. d. Farnesina
Via del Circo Massimo
Via del Circo Massimo Lu
ng. Rip
a
L
ung. Ave
ntino
Via dei Cerchi Via
di S
. Gre
gori
o
PALATINEHILL PARCO
DEL CELIOPARCO
DEL CELIO
Piazza delCampidoglio
Piazza diSan Marco
Via Ani
cia
Via Ani
cia
Piazza inPiscinulaPiazza inPiscinula V. d. Genovesi
V. d. Genovesi PiazzaMastaiPiazzaMastai
V. S.
Francescoo V. S.
Francescoo
Cor. d. Rinascimento
Cor. d. Rinascimento
Mon. VittorioEmanuele IIMon. VittorioEmanuele II
V. di S
. Mich
ele
V. di S
. Mich
ele
Museo diRoma
Museo diRoma
PiazzaCola diRienzo
PiazzaCola diRienzo
Via Giulia
Via Giulia
V. Monserrato
V. Monserrato
V. d. P
ettinari
V. d. P
ettinari
14
PIAZZANAVONAPIAZZA
NAVONA
Piazza S.SilvestroPiazza S.Silvestro
V. d. D.
Macelli
V. d. D.
Macelli
V. Frattina V. Frattina
V. d. Vite V. d. Vite
Santa Mariasopra MinervaSanta Mariasopra Minerva
LargoMagnanapoli
LargoMagnanapoli
Via Piacenza
Via Piacenza
Via Panisperna
Via Panisperna
Via Cavour
Via Cavour Via Baacciinni
Via Baccini
V. d
. S. T
eodo
ro
V. d
. S. T
eodo
ro
Via Sistina
Via Sistina
Via Ludovisi
Via Ludovisi
V. G.
WashingtonV. G.
Washington
V. F. di
SavoiaV. F. di
Savoia
V. d
. P
aglia
V. d
. P
aglia
SpagnaSpagna
FlaminioFlaminio
ViaVittorio
Ven
eto
ViaVittorio
Ven
eto
V. F.
C
rispi
V.
F.
Cris
pi
M
V. Margutta
V. Margutta
Tiber (Te
vere
) Riv
er
3
3
7
13
12
13
12
7
MM
M
M
M
M
14
The Best in Two DaysTh
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
The
Bes
t Fu
ll-D
ay T
ou
rs
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 14
15
On your second day, spend the morning wandering the pic-turesque squares and alleys of Trastevere and Campo de’ Fiori,
Rome’s oldest and most authentic quarters. Have lunch, and thencross town to feast your eyes on the crown jewels of baroque art inthe Galleria Borghese. Go for a stroll through the Villa Borghese,making your way to the Pincio terraces and their enchanting viewover the city and the Vatican. Finish the day by visiting the elegantTridente district below, where such dolce vita activities as shopping,drinking, and eating abound. Allow 21⁄2 hours for the morning tour ofTrastevere and Campo de’ Fiori. START: Take bus 23, 271, or 280 to
Lungotevere degli Anguillara, and then walk to Piazza di Santa Cecilia;
or take bus H, 780, or tram 8 to Piazza G. G. Belli, and walk.
The Best in
Two
Days
V. d. Seminario
Via Sardegna
VILLABORGHESE
PARIOLI
PIAZZA DELPOPOLO
PIAZZABARBERINI
VIAVENETO
PalazzoBarberini
Pantheon
SpanishSteps
Piazzade Quirinale
Via del Quirin
ale
Via Nazio
nale
Barberini
Lepanto
ColosseoANCIENT
ROME
AVENTINEHILL
PALATINEHILL
Circo Massimo
TRASTEVERE
Palazzo delQuirinale
TreviFountain
VILLA MEDICI
GIARDINI DELQUIRINALE
VILLACOLONNA
Colosseum
Mausoleumof Augustus
Palazzo diMontecitorio
Largo delTritone
Via del C
orso
Piazza diSpagna
V. d. Tritone
V. Condotti
PiazzaleBrasile
CastelSant’ Angelo
Palazzodi Giustizia
PiazzaCavour
Via Font Borghese
V. d. Babuino
PiazzaleFlaminio
Via del C
orso
Viale del Muro Torto
V. d
. Rip
etta
Ponte Reg.
Margherita
Ponte Cavour
Ponte
Umberto I
PonteS. A
ngelo
Via Pin
cian
a
V. d
. Muse
o Borg
hese
ISOLATIBERINA
Lung. dei Tebaldi
Via
Arenu
la
Lung. de Cenci L. R. Sanzio
Piazza G.G.Belli
L. d. Pierleoni
V. Gar
ibaldi
Pont
eGa
ribal
di
Ponte
Palatino
Piazza dellaRotonda
Corso Vittorio Emanuele
Via del Pellegrino Largo di
TorreArgentina
V. d. Plebiscito V. C. Battisti
Pte Sisto
Lung. R
ipa
L
ung. Ave
ntino
Via dei Cerchi Via
di S
. Gre
gori
o
V. d
. Tra
stev
ere
Piazza did’Aracoeli Via dei Fori Imperiali
Piazza delCampidoglio
Piazza diSan Marco
Teatro diMarcello
Lung. d. Farnesina
Via del Circo Massimo
PARCODEL CELIO
Via Ani
cia
Piazza inPiscinula V. d. Genovesi Piazza
Mastai
V. S.
Francescoo
Cor. d. Rinascimento
Mon. VittorioEmanuele II
V. di S
. Mich
ele
Museo diRoma
PiazzaCola diRienzo
Via Giulia
V. Monserrato
V. d. P
ettinari
PIAZZANAVONA
Piazza S.Silvestro
V. d. D.
Macelli
V. Frattina
V. d. Vite
Santa Mariasopra Minerva
LargoMagnanapoli
Via Piacenza
Via Panisperna
Via Cavour Via Baccini
V. d
. S. T
eodo
ro
Via Sistina
Via Ludovisi
V. G.
Washington
V. F. di
Savoia
V. d
. P
aglia
Spagna
Flaminio
ViaVittorio
Ven
eto
V. F.
C
rispi
V. Margutta
1 ★ Santa Cecilia. This incrediblypeaceful basilica—an 18th-centuryreworking of a medieval church—isdedicated to the patron saint ofmusic, who was martyred here inthe 3rd century A.D. Inside, altarmosaics dazzle, and fragments ofPietro Cavallini’s wonderful 13th-century fresco of the Last Judgmentcan be seen at limited times. Ceciliawas exhumed from her tomb in thecrypt here in 1599, long enough forStefano Maderno to sculpt thelovely (but disturbing—her throat isslashed) statue of the saint’s still-uncorrupted body below the altar.The church is one of the most popu-lar in Rome for weddings, evidencedby omnipresent grains of rice on theground near the front door. @ 20min. Piazza di Santa Cecilia. y 06-5899289. Daily 9:30am–12:30pm,4–6:30pm. Cavallini frescoes: Tues,
Thurs 10am–noon, Sun 11:30am–12:30pm. Bus: 23, 271, 280, or H.Tram: 3 or 8.
2 ★★ Piazza and Basilica diSanta Maria in Trastevere. The first church in Rome dedicated to theVirgin Mary is spectacular inside andout, with a landmark Romanesquebrick bell tower, colorful frescoes,mosaics, and loads of recycledancient marbles. The eponymoussquare in front of the church acts asa kind of common living room for theneighborhood—it seems that everyresident of Trastevere crosses thewide expanse of cobblestones hereat some point during the day. Seealso p 39, bullet 8, and p 43, bullet 8. @ 20 min. Piazza SantaMaria in Trastevere. y 06-5814802.Daily 7:30am–9pm. Bus: 23, 271, 280,or H. Tram: 8.
A cafe in Trastevere.
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 15
7 Taverna del Campo. Break forlunch on or around Campo de’ Fioribefore beginning the second part of the day’s tour. For savory pizza-bread sandwiches and piazza views,Taverna del Campo can’t be beat (p 114). $$.
3 ★ Ombre Rosse. This cafewith a porchlike view over a charm-ing piazza is more stylish than theaverage neighborhood bar, but stillfrequented by born-and-bred, localtrasteverini, and perfect for cappuc-cino-sipping and people-watching.Piazza Sant’ Egidio 12. y 06-5884155. $–$$.
6 ★★★ Campo de’ Fiori.Rome’s market square par excel-lence, the Campo is the perfectembodiment of the myth of Italy.Every morning from Monday to Sat-urday, the square hosts a lively fruit,vegetable, and trinket bazaar. Byearly evening, where grocery shop-pers eyed pachino tomatoes a fewhours before, Rome’s bright youngthings are scoping out each otherover sparkling wine and efferves-cent conversation, indulging in thecarefree atmosphere of this alwaysbusy outdoor salon. See also p 39,bullet !, and p 56, bullet 1.
@ 20–30 min. Bus: 23, 30, 40, 62,64, 70, 87, 116, or 492. Tram: 8.
16Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
Tomatoes and zucchini for sale at the market in Campo de’ Fiori.
4 ★★ Via Giulia. Bearingstraight toward the Vatican fromPonte Sisto, this former pilgrimroute is home to many art galleriesand high-end, original boutiques.Via Giulia’s most fetching feature isan arch—with overgrown ivy drapedluxuriously toward the pitch-blackcobblestones—that spans the roadbehind Palazzo Farnese. @ 15 min.Bus: 23, 271, or 280.
5 ★★ Piazza Farnese.Sophisticated and regal Piazza Far-nese is where locals come to readthe newspaper or to push a strollerin peace, against the stately, yellow-brick backdrop of 16th-centuryPalazzo Farnese. The sleepy squareseems a world away—in reality, it’sonly a block—from the hubbub ofCampo de’ Fiori. See also p 39, bul-let 0, and p 57, bullet 3. @ 15min. Bus: 23, 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 87,116, 271, 492, or 571. Tram: 8.
8 ★★★ Galleria Borghese.Reel in amazement at sculptures byBernini (and other masterpieces) atone of the world’s most outstandingsmall museums. Visits must bebooked at least 1 day in advance:Go for the 1 or 3pm time slot. See also p 30, bullet 3. @ 1 hr.
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 16
# ★★ Enoteca Antica di Viadella Croce. For a more budget-friendly snack, grab a barstool orsidewalk seat and enjoy some wineand tantalizing plates of meats,cheeses, and olives at this friendlyspot. A favorite of expats living inRome. Via della Croce 76B. y 06-6790896. $$.
Veneto—these days, celebshounded by the paparazzi duck intothis (pricey) bar inside the glam-orous Hotel de Russie. In warmweather, sit outside in the gorgeousinterior garden, sloping up towardthe Pincio; in winter, get cozy at thepiano bar’s indoor tables. Via delBabuino 9. y 06-328881. $$$–$$$$.
@ ★★ Bar Stravinskij. Forgetthe cheesy sidewalk cafes of Via
Piazzale Museo Borghese. y 06-32810. Admission 8.50� plus 2�booking fee. Tues–Sun 9am–7pm(last visit 5pm). Bus: 116 or 910.
9 ★★ Villa Borghese. Go for a relaxing stroll among the refresh-ing greenery of Rome’s most centralpublic park. Boats can be rented atthe picturesque laghetto. See also p 92. @ 30 min. Daily 6am–sunset.Metro: Spagna. Bus: 52, 53, 63, 116,or 910. Tram: 3 or 19.
0 ★★★ Pincio Terrace. Heartsflutter at the impressive perspectiveon the Vatican from this panoramicspot above Piazza del Popolo. It’s glo-riously sun-filled by day, ultraroman-tic by night. See also p 45, bullet 3.
@ 15 min. Metro: Flaminio.
! ★★ Piazza del Popolo.Romans and tourists alike bask inthe late-afternoon sun that floodsthis vast, traffic-free oval space justbelow the Pincio. Graced in the cen-ter by a massive, hieroglyphed pinkgranite obelisk, the “Square of thePeople” is wonderfully elegant anduncluttered—perfect for idling andgelato-licking, and a fitting introduc-tion to the good-life in Tridente dis-trict, which spreads out pronglike tothe south. See also p 38, bullet 4,and p 61, bullet 1. @ 15 min.Metro: Flaminio.
$ ★★★ Spanish Steps. Fortu-nately, the sweeping beauty of theScalinata di Piazza di Spagna tran-scends the sometimes-ugly crowdsof tourists that populate the squareday and night. The climb to the highterrace covers 12 curving flights ofsteps of varying width—you’ll trip ifyou don’t watch where your feetare—but the view from the top isexhilarating. Come between 2 and6am, and you’ll enjoy that rarest ofRoman treats—having the fabulousstage of the Spanish Steps to your-self. See also p 63, bullet !. @ 30min. Metro: Spagna.
17The B
est in Tw
o D
ays
The Spanish Steps are one of the city’s favorite gathering places.
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 17
ANCIENTROME
ANCIENTROME
AVENTINEHILL
AVENTINEHILL
TRASTEVERETRASTEVERE
CIRCUS MAXIMUS
ROMANFORUM
Pont
e
Gari
bald
i
Pont
e
Gari
bald
i
Ponte
Palatino
Ponte
Palatino
Largo diTorre
Argentina
Largo diTorre
Argentina
Pte Sis
to
Pte Sis
to
ISOLATIBERINA
ISOLATIBERINA
Vial
e di
Tras
teve
re
Via Anici
a
V. d. Genovesi V. S. Francesco
V. S. M
ichele
Vial
e di
Tras
teve
re
Corso Vittorio Emanuele
V. d. Pellegrino V. d. Plebiscito
Corso Vittorio Emanuele V. d. Pellegrino
V. d. Plebiscito
Via Botteghe Oscure Via Botteghe Oscure V
ia A
renu
la
Lung. R. Sanzio
V. Monserrato
V. d. P
ettinari
Via
Are
nula
Piazza di
d’Aracoeli
Piazza diSan Marco
PiazzaCapizucchi
Piazza did’Aracoeli
V
Teatro diMarcelloTeatro diMarcello Lung. de Cenci
Lung. de Cenci Lung. R. Sanzio
Piazza G.G.Belli Piazza in
Piscinula
Piazza G.G.Belli
L. d. Pierleoni V. Petroselli
L. d. Pierleoni
Via del Circo Massimo
Via dei Cerchi
Via d
i
S. Sabina
Via del Circo Massimo
Lung. A
ventin
o
PiazzaPiazzaBocca d.Bocca d.
VeritaVerita
Lun
g. R
ipa
Porto di R
ipa Gra
nde
Lung. A
ventin
o
Via dei Cerchi
PALATINEHILL
PALATINEHILL
Piazza delCampidoglio
Piazza delCampidoglio
Piazza diSan Marco
Via Anici
a
Piazza inPiscinula
V. d. Genovesi PiazzaMastaiPiazzaMastai
V. S. Francesco
Mon. VittorioEmanuele II
Mon. VittorioEmanuele II
Museo di RomaMuseo di Roma
V. Monserrato
V. d. P
ettinari
PiazzaleUgo
La Malfa
S. Sabina
S. Alessio
PiazzaleUgo
La Malfa
PiazzaAlbania
Largo ManlioGelsomini
Piazzad. Emporio
Piazza d.Tempio di Diana
Piazza d.ServilliPiazza d.
Testaccio
PiazzaAlbania
PARCO D.S. ALESSIOPARCO D.
S. ALESSIO
Via Marm
orata
Lung
. Test
accio
Via Marm
orata
Largo ManlioGelsomini
V. Manlio Gelsomini
V. S
. Dom
enico
V
ia S. M
elania
V. S. G
regorio
V. d. Prisca
V. d. Term
e D
ecia
ne
Via S. Alessio V. Marcella
V. d. Pta. Lavernale
V. Manlio Gelsomini
Piazzad. Emporio
PonteSublicoPonteSublico
Lung
. Test
accio
Via d
i
S. Sabina
SantaCeciliaSantaCecilia
V. Petroselli
PiazzaBocca d.
Verita
Piazza d.Tempio di Diana
V. S
. Dom
enico
V
ia S. M
elania
Piazza d.Servilli
V. S. M
ichele
Lun
g. R
ipa
Porto di R
ipa Gra
nde
Piazza diPorta
Portese
Piazza diPorta
Portese
Piazza d.Testaccio
PIAZZA CAMPOD. FIORI
PIAZZA CAMPOD. FIORI
PiazzaCapizucchi
TESTACCIOTESTACCIO Via
le A
vent
ino
Via
le A
vent
ino
V. S. G
regorio
V. d. Prisca
V. d. Term
e D
ecia
ne
Via S.
Anselmo
Via S.
Via S. Alessio V. Marcella
S. Sabina
S. Alessio
V. d. Pta. Lavernale
S. AnselmoS. Anselmo
L. d. Vallati
L. d. Vallati
Pte
Cest
ioPt
eFa
brici
o
Pte
Cest
ioPt
eFa
brici
o
L. d. Anguillara
L. d. Anguillara
Santa Mariain AracoeliSanta Mariain Aracoeli
PiazzaVeneziaPiazza
Venezia Anselm
o
1
2
3
Catacombs of San Callisto
Appian Way (Appia Antica)
Testaccio
Il Seme e la Foglia
Aventine Hill
Jewish Ghetto
Tiber Island
Tiber Cruise
5
6
7
84
4
100 meters
0
0
1/8 mile
7
V. Portico V. Catalana
V. Portico V. Catalana
8
5
Via Portuense
se
Via Portuense
se
V. Am
erigo V
espucci
V. G
iovanni Bra
nca
V.Giovanni Batt Bodoni
Via Nicola Zabaglia
V. Am
erigo V
espucci
V. G
iovanni Bra
nca
V.Giovanni Batt Bodoni
Via Nicola Zabaglia
V. Galvani
V. Galvani 3
6
1
2 �
�
Tiber (
Tevere
) Riv
er
18
The Best in Three DaysTh
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 18
19
One of the best and most surprising things about Rome ishow quickly you can escape the urban chaos and enjoy the rus-
tic tranquillity of the city’s greener areas, just a few miles away fromthe tourist hordes. On your third day, visit the catacombs andbreathe the spicy, rural air along the history-saturated Appian Way.Then, go for a stroll in the contrasting, adjacent neighborhoods ofTestaccio and the Aventine. Finish the day back in the centro storicowith a walk through the Jewish Ghetto and Tiber Island. (Alterna-tively, get out of town entirely, and go for a day trip to Ostia Antica orTivoli. See p 150 and 148.) START: Take bus 118 or a taxi to the Cata-
combe di San Callisto on the Appian Way (the entrance is 3.2km/2
miles south of Porta San Sebastiano gate).
The Best in
Three D
ays
ANCIENTROME
AVENTINEHILL
TRASTEVERE
Pont
e
Gari
bald
i
Ponte
Palatino
Largo diTorre
Argentina
Pte Sis
to
ISOLATIBERINA
Vial
e di
Tras
teve
re
Via Anici
a
V. d. Genovesi
V. S. Francesco
V. S. M
ichele
Corso Vittorio Emanuele
V. d. Pellegrino V. d. Plebiscito
Via Botteghe Oscure
Via
Are
nula
Lung. R. Sanzio
V. Monserrato
V. d. P
ettinari
Piazza did’Aracoeli
Piazza diSan Marco
PiazzaCapizucchi
V
Teatro diMarcello Lung. de Cenci
Piazza G.G.Belli Piazza in
Piscinula
L. d. Pierleoni V. Petroselli
Via del Circo Massimo
Via dei Cerchi
Via d
i
S. Sabina
o
Lung. A
ventin
o
PiazzaBocca d.
Verita
Lun
g. R
ipa
Porto di R
ipa Gra
nde
PALATINEHILL
Piazza delCampidoglio
PiazzaMastai
Mon. VittorioEmanuele II
Museo di Roma
PiazzaleUgo
La Malfa
S. Sabina
S. Alessio
PiazzaAlbania
Largo ManlioGelsomini
Piazzad. Emporio
Piazza d.Tempio di Diana
Piazza d.ServilliPiazza d.
Testaccio
PARCO D.S. ALESSIO
Via Marm
orata
Lung
. Test
accio
V. Manlio Gelsomini
V. S
. Dom
enico
V
ia S. M
elania
V. S. G
regorio
V. d. Prisca
V. d. Term
e D
ecia
ne
Via S. Alessio V. Marcella
V. d. Pta. Lavernale
PonteSublico
SantaCecilia
Piazza diPorta
Portese
PIAZZA CAMPOD. FIORI
TESTACCIO Via
le A
vent
ino
o
Via S. Anselm
o
S. Anselmo
L. d. Vallati
Pte
Cest
ioPt
eFa
brici
o
L. d. Anguillara
Santa Mariain Aracoeli
PiazzaVenezia
V. Portico V. Catalana
Via Portuense
se
V. Am
erigo V
espucci
V. G
iovanni Bra
nca
V.Giovanni Batt Bodoni
Via Nicola Zabaglia
V. Galvani
�
�
1 ★★★ Catacombs of San Cal-listo. Nineteen kilometers (12 miles)and four levels of hand-dug tunnelsmake up the underground networkof Rome’s largest catacombs, hometo the tombs of half a million Chris-tians, buried here from the 1st to the4th centuries A.D. Deep within thecomplex, a labyrinth of 9m-high (30-ft.) tunnels, whose walls are per-forated up to the ceiling with loculi(tomb niches), is especially impres-sive (and uncannily reminiscent ofcollege library stacks). See also p 46. @ 45 min. Via Appia Antica110. y 06-5130151. Admission 6�.Open Thurs–Tues 8:30am–noon,2:30–5pm. Bus: 118.
2 ★★★ Appian Way. Few places in Rome transport you toancient times as well as the ViaAppia Antica, whose black basaltcobblestones, still bearing thewheel ruts of ancient cart traffic,stretch south of the city from PortaSan Sebastiano. A few miles fromthe city walls, a rustic, agrarian land-scape opens up on either side of the 4th-century-B.C. highway; thescenery is scattered with imposingor modest remains of ancient tombsand villas, and shepherds driveflocks of sheep from pasture to pasture, right across the “Queen of Roads.” Even the scent of theAppian Way is ripe with antiquity:Once you smell it, the combinationof bright notes of umbrella pine nee-dles, musty sunbaked brick andmarble, and the acrid pungency of leaves burning in farmyardsbecomes indelible in your memory.See also p 94. @ 1 hr. Bus: 118.
3 ★★ Testaccio. Anchored by anartificial hill made of ancient potterycast-offs and populated by salt-of-the-earth romani de’ Roma (and theodd sheep or goat), the authenticneighborhood of Testaccio oozescharacter. See also p 72. @ 1 hr.Metro: Piramide. Bus: 30, 60, 75, 95,118, or 170. Tram: 3.
A corridor in the Catacombs of San Callisto.
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 19
4 ★ Il Seme e la Foglia. Withviews of the old slaughterhouse andthe potsherds of Monte Testaccio,this hip corner joint is a great placefor a casual, quick lunch of enormousand tasty salads and sandwiches. ViaGalvani 18. y 06-5743008. $–$$.
A wall-fountain at Santa Sabina.
5 ★★★ Aventine. Oblivious tothe noise of the centro below, Aven-tine Hill is mostly residential, andhome to several churches, whosedignified and simple red-brick exteri-ors and grassy grounds are a wel-come contrast from the fussyfacades and cramped quarters ofmany Roman churches. The 5th-cen-tury-A.D. church of Santa Sabina iscavernous and calming—a sublimeexample of the basilican form. @ 1hr. Metro: Circo Massimo. Bus: 30, 60,75, 81, 95, 118, 175, or 628. Tram: 3.
6 ★★ Jewish Ghetto. As thearea where Roman Jews were con-fined from the 16th to the 19th centuries, the medieval quarterbetween the Capitoline and the
Tiber has seen its share of darkdays. Today, however, the Ghetto isan upbeat, characteristic part of thecentro storico that many touristsmiss. From towering ancient ruinslike the Theater of Marcellus, tosculptural gems like the Fountain ofthe Tortoises in Piazza Mattei, to thetriumphant synagogue, this smallarea has a lot to see. See also p 66.
@ 45 min. Bus: 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 81,87, 170, 271, 492, or 628. Tram: 8.
7 ★★ Tiber Island. This boat-shaped protuberance in the middleof the river, between the Ghetto andTrastevere, is an oasis of calm; eversince the Greek god of medicine,Aesculapius, washed up here dis-guised as a snake, the island hasbeen the city’s sanctuary of medi-cine. Check out the lower prome-nade (water level permitting), withits great views of the ancient bridgesnearby. See also p 66. @ 30 min.Bus: 23, 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87,170, 271, 280, 492, or 628. Tram: 8.
8 ★★ Tiber Cruise. If you havetime, going for a ride on the Battellidi Roma riverboat service (alsoknown as “Bateaux Rome”) is a greatway to relax while seeing Rome fromthe interesting perspective of thishistoric waterway, now largely over-looked by the modern city. You cancruise all the way up to the Foro Ital-ico (p 131) for a sunset stroll amongthe Fascist-inspired athletic cultmosaics and statues. @ 11⁄2 hr.
y 06-97745496. www.rexervation.com/crociere.asp. From 12�. Bus: 23,271, 280, or H. Tram: 8. •
20Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
Tiber Island is an oasis of calm.
05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 20