1 Sydney - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/sydney-11-contents.pdfPaddington &...

33
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Sydney THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Peter Dragicevich, Miriam Raphael

Transcript of 1 Sydney - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/sydney-11-contents.pdfPaddington &...

Page 1: 1 Sydney - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/sydney-11-contents.pdfPaddington & Centennial Park Inner West Bondi to Coogee p168 p69 p156 p108 p122 p136 p85 p52 p102 p144

Plan Your Trip 1

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.

So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

Sydney

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Peter Dragicevich, Miriam Raphael

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ContentsContents

Welcome to Sydney ......... 4

Sydney’s Top 10 ............... 6

What’s New .................... 13

Need to Know ................ 14

Top Itineraries ............... 16

If You Like… .................... 18

Month by Month ............ 21

Sydney with Kids ...........24

Like a Local ....................26

For Free ..........................28

Beaches ........................30Eating ........................... 33

Drinking & Nightlife...36Gay & Lesbian Sydney ..........................39Entertainment ............42Shopping ...................... 44Sports & Activities .... 46

Plan Your Trip page 1

Understand Sydney 193

Survival Guide 217

Sydney Maps 238

Plan Your Trip 4

Explore Sydney 48

Transport ..................... 218 Directory A–Z ..............222 Index ............................ 229

Sydney Today ..............194

History ..........................196

Food Culture ................ 201

The Arts....................... 205

Architecture .................210

Sporty Sydney ............. 214

Neighbourhoods at a Glance .................... 50

Circular Quay & the Rocks ................... 52

Sydney Harbour ........... 69

City Centre & Haymarket ................. 85

Darling Harbour & Pyrmont ....................102

Inner West ................... 108

Surry Hills & Darlinghurst .............122

Kings Cross & Potts Point ................136

Paddington & Centennial Park ...... 144

Bondi to Coogee ..........156

Manly ............................168

Day Trips from Sydney ............... 177

Sleeping ......................183

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CAT

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Manly

SydneyHarbourCircular

Quay &the Rocks Kings

Cross& PottsPointDarling

Harbour& Pyrmont

Surry Hills &Darlinghurst

CityCentre &

Haymarket

Paddington &Centennial

Park

InnerWest

Bondi toCoogee

p168

p69

p156

p108p122

p136

p85

p52

p102

p144

(left) Bondi to Coogee walk p160 Enjoy spec-tacular coastal views.

(above) University of Sydney p110 Take a break in the quadrangle.

(right) Taronga Zoo p81 Encounter native wildlife.

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Top ItinerariesDay OneCircular Quay & the Rocks (p52)

M Why postpone joy? Start at Circular Quay and head directly to Sydney

Opera House. Circle around it and fol-low the shoreline into the Royal Botanic Garden. Have a good look around and then continue around Mrs Macquaries Point and down to Woolloomooloo.

City Centre & Haymarket (p85)

R Head up to the Art Gallery of NSW. Take some time to explore the gallery

then cross the Domain and cut through Sydney Hospital to Macquarie St. Parlia­ment House is immediately to the right, while to the left is the Mint and Hyde Park Barracks. Cross into Hyde Park and head straight through its centre, crossing Park St and continuing on to the Anzac Memorial.

Surry Hills & Darlinghurst (p122)

N After dinner, if you haven’t booked tickets for a play at Belvoir, take a

stroll along Crown St. There are plenty of good bars and pubs to stop at along the way.

Day TwoBondi to Coogee (p156)

M Grab your swimming gear and head to the beach. Catch the bus to

Bondi and spend some time strolling about and soaking it all in. If the weather’s right, stop for a swim. Once you’re done, take the clifftop path to Tamarama and on to Bronte.

Bondi to Coogee (p156)

R Continue on the coastal path through Waverley Cemetery and down to

Clovelly. This is a great spot to stop for a swim or a snorkel. Continuing on you’ll pass Gordons Bay and Dolphin Point before you arrive at Coogee Beach. Stop for a drink on the rooftop of Coogee Pavilion then jump aboard a bus back to Bondi Junc-tion. Shopaholics can have a brief whirl around Westfield.

Kings Cross & Potts Point (p136)

N Everyone needs at least one trashy night up the Cross. Start with

cocktails at Jimmy Lik’s after dinner. Back it up with a tipple at Bootleg. Then Sugar­mill, Kings Cross Hotel, World Bar…

Dinner Catch a cab to the Devonshire (p130), for relaxed, inventive fine dining.

Lunch Grab a pie at Harry’s Cafe de Wheels (p141), a Sydney institution.

Dinner Fortify yourself for a Cross blinder at buzzy Ms G’s (p140).

Lunch Detour slightly up to Bronte’s excellent Three Blue Ducks (p164).

16 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Day ThreeSydney Harbour (p69)

M Take the scenic ferry ride from Circular Quay to Watsons Bay.

Walk up to the Gap, to watch the waves pounding against the cliffs, then continue on to Camp Cove for a dip. Take the South Head Heritage Trail for sublime views of the city and the whole of the upper harbour.

Circular Quay & the Rocks (p52)

R Head back to Circular Quay and spend the afternoon exploring the

Rocks. Start at the Museum of Contem­porary Art and then head up into the network of narrow lanes to the Rocks Discovery Museum. Continue through the Argyle Cut to Millers Point and wan-der up Observatory Hill. Pop into one of Sydney’s oldest pubs (maybe the Lord Nelson or Hero of Waterloo) and then

cut down to Walsh Bay and double back under Sydney Harbour Bridge.

Circular Quay & the Rocks (p52)

N If last night was your trashy night, make this your glamorous one.

Book a show at Sydney Opera House or Walsh Bay, or head straight to Opera Bar

Day FourDarling Harbour & Pyrmont (p102)

M Have a stroll around the waterfront and settle on whichever of the big

attractions takes your fancy – perhaps the Australian National Maritime Mu­seum, Sydney Sea Life Aquarium or Wild Life Sydney Zoo. Each of these will easily fill up an entire morning.

Sydney Harbour (p69)

R Jump on the river service at King St Wharf and take an hour-long cruise

upstream as far as Sydney Olympic Park. Take a stroll around Newington Nature Reserve until the next ferry arrives to whisk you back. Stop at Cocktaoo Island for a look at its art installations and the remnants of its convict and shipbuilding past. From here you can either catch a

ferry to Balmain, or head straight back to Darling Harbour or Circular Quay.

Inner West (p108)

N After dinner stroll up to King St, Newtown, and cruise the late-

night bookshops and bars. A short pub-crawl could include Corridor, Zanzibar, Courthouse Hotel, Midnight Special and Earl’s Juke Joint. Or continue on to

Dinner Book well in advance for Sydney’s top restaurant, Quay (p64).

Lunch Pull up a pew with a view at Dunbar House (p81).

Dinner Have a final night of Modern Australian cuisine at Ester (p114).

Lunch For a cheap bite, pop up to Central Baking Depot (p95).

17PLAN

YOUR TRIP T

op

ITIn

Er

Ar

IES

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Sydney Maps

238

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

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Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

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TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

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Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

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MAP INDEX1 Circular Quay & the Rocks (p240)

2 Sydney Harbour (p242)

3 Haymarket (p245)

4 City Centre (p246)

5 Darling Harbour & Pyrmont (p250)

6 Inner West (p252)

7 Surry Hills & Darlinghurst (p254)

8 Kings Cross & Potts Point (p257)

9 Paddington & Centennial Park (p258)

10 Bondi (p261)

11 Coogee (p262)

12 Manly (p263)

239

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242

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SYDNEY H

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SYDN

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ARBO

URSYDNEY HARBOUR Map on p242

æ Sights (p71) 27 Milk Beach .....................G5 ý Entertainment (p82) 1 Admiralty House........... D5 28 Murray Rose Pool ......... F6 49 Ensemble Theatre.........D4 2 Balls Head Reserve....... B4 29 Nielsen Park ..................G5 50 Hayden Orpheum 3 Balmain .......................... C2 30 Obelisk.............................F3 Picture Palace ............ D3 4 Balmoral Beach..............F3 31 Parsley Bay....................H5 51 IMB Sunset 5 Camp Cove ....................H4 32 Shark Island....................F5 Cinema ........................C3 6 Cathermore ................... C2 33 South Head....................H3

7 Chinamans Beach..........F2 34 St Mary's Hall ................ B2 þ Shopping (p83) 8 Chowder Bay Beach......F4 35 Taronga Zoo .................. E4 52 Balmain Market............. B2 9 Clontarf Cottage ........... C2 36 Vaucluse House ............G5 53 Kirribilli Markets............C4 10 Cobblers Beach.............G3 37 Watch House ................. B2

11 Cockatoo Island ............ A5 38 Waterman's Ø Sports & Activities (p83) 12 Cremorne Point..............E5 Cottage........................C2 54 Dawn Fraser Baths ........A1 Cremorne 39 Watsons Bay..................H4 55 EastSail........................... E6 Reserve .............. (see 12) 40 Yurulbin Point................B4 56 Natural Wanders...........C4 13 Double Bay......................E7 57 North Sydney 14 Dr Mary Booth ú Eating (p81) Olympic Pool .............. C5 Reserve 41 Adriano Zumbo ............. B2 58 Sydney by Foreshore 42 Bathers' Pavilion ............F2 Seaplane ..................... F6 Walkway ...................... D5 Doyles on the 59 Sydney Flying 15 Elkington Park ................A1 Beach................. (see 39) Squadron ....................D4 16 Fort Denison.................. D5 Dunbar House ..... (see 39) 60 Sydney Harbour 17 Goat Island......................C1 43 Kazbah.............................A1 Kayaks .......................... F1 18 Hampton Villa................ C2 44 Riverview Hotel & 61 Sydney Seaplanes ........G6 19 Kirribilli House............... D5 Dining............................A1

20 Kirribilli Point................. D5 45 Tea Room Gunners ÿ Sleeping (p186) 21 Lady Bay ........................H3 Barracks...................... F4 62 Cockatoo Island ............ A4 22 Lindesay......................... E6 63 InterContinental 23 Luna Park....................... C5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p82) Sydney 24 Macquarie 46 Golden Sheaf Hotel........E7 Double Bay ..................E7 Lighthouse..................H5 47 London Hotel................. B2 64 Savoy Hotel.....................E7 25 Mary MacKillop Watsons Bay Watsons Bay Place............................C4 Beach Club........ (see 39) Boutique 26 May Gibbs' Nutcote...... D4 48 Welcome Hotel.............. A2 Hotel .................. (see 39)

244

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HAYM

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ÿ Sleeping (p187) ú Eating (p97) 10 Pensione Hotel............................................C2 4 Chat Thai......................................................C2 11 Railway Square YHA .................................. B4 5 Din Tai Fung................................................. C1 12 Sydney Central YHA .................................. C3 6 Mamak.......................................................... B1 13 Wake Up! ..................................................... B3

ý Entertainment (p99)

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245

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CITY

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CITY CENTRE

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CITY

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TRE

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æ Top Sights (p87) 23 State Theatre..............................................C4 1 Art Gallery of NSW......................................G3 24 Sydney Hospital ......................................... E3 25 Sydney Tower Eye......................................D4 æ Sights (p88) 26 Sydney Town Hall.......................................C6 2 5 Martin Place .............................................D3 27 The Domain..................................................F3 3 Anzac Memorial .......................................... E7 28 The Mint....................................................... E3 4 Archibald Memorial Fountain....................E4

5 Australia Square ......................................... C1 ú Eating (p95) 6 Commonwealth Bank branch ...................D3 29 Alpha ............................................................D6 7 Governors Phillip & Macquarie Towers ....E1 30 Ash St Cellar................................................C2 8 GPO Sydney ................................................C3 31 Central Baking Depot................................. B2 9 Great Synagogue........................................D5 Chiswick at the Gallery ....................... (see 1) 10 Hyde Park ....................................................E6 Est....................................................... (see 44) 11 Hyde Park Barracks Museum ...................E4 32 Ippudo Sydney............................................D4 12 Martin Place.................................................C3 33 Le Grand Café............................................. B5 13 Museum of Australian Currency 34 Mr Wong .......................................................C1 Notes ........................................................E3 35 Rockpool.......................................................C1 14 Museum of Sydney......................................E1 36 Rockpool Bar & Grill................................... D2 15 Parliament House.......................................E3 37 Sepia ............................................................ B5 16 Queen Victoria Building .............................C5 38 Spice Temple ..............................................D2 17 Speakers' Corner........................................G3 39 Sydney Madang.......................................... C7 18 St Andrew's Cathedral...............................C6 40 Tetsuya's .....................................................B6 19 St James' Church .......................................E4

20 St Mary's Cathedral.................................... F4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p97) 21 St Philip's Church ....................................... B1 41 Bambini Wine Room .................................. D5 22 State Library of NSW .................................E2 42 Bavarian Bier Café ..................................... C3

248

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CITY CENTRE

43 Baxter Inn ....................................................B4 62 Myer .............................................................C4 44 Establishment ............................................. C1 63 Opal Fields................................................... C5 45 Frankie's Pizza ............................................D2 64 Queen Victoria Building............................. C5 46 Good God Small Club.................................B7 65 RM Williams.................................................C4 47 Grandma's ...................................................B5 66 Strand Arcade.............................................C4 48 Ivy..................................................................C2 67 Strand Hatters............................................C4 49 Marble Bar ...................................................C5 Westfield Sydney.............................. (see 25) O Bar..................................................... (see 5)

50 Redoak Boutique Beer Cafe......................B4 Ø Sports & Activities (p101) 51 Rook..............................................................C4 68 BlueBananas............................................... B5 52 Slip Inn & Chinese Laundry .......................B3 69 Cook & Phillip Park..................................... E5 53 Spice Cellar..................................................D3 70 I'm Free........................................................C6

ý Entertainment (p98) ÿ Sleeping (p187) 54 City Recital Hall...........................................C2 71 Adina Apartment Hotel 55 Metro Theatre .............................................C7 Sydney ......................................................B6 State Theatre ....................................(see 23) 72 Establishment Hotel ...................................C1 73 Fraser Suites Sydney................................. B6 þ Shopping (p99) 74 Hilton............................................................ C5 56 David Jones .................................................D4 75 Hyde Park Inn.............................................. D7 57 Dymocks ......................................................C4 76 Meriton Serviced 58 Hey Presto Magic Studio...........................D2 Apartments Kent Jurlique............................................... (see 57) Street ........................................................ C7 59 Kings Comics...............................................C7 77 Park8............................................................ D5 60 Kinokuniya ...................................................C5 78 QT Sydney...................................................C4 61 Love+Hatred ...............................................C4 79 Westin Sydney............................................ C3

249

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æ Sights (p104) û Drinking & Nightlife (p107) 1 Anzac Bridge ...............................................A2 15 Cargo Bar ....................................................D2 2 Australian National Maritime 16 Home............................................................D3 Museum ....................................................C2 17 Loft ...............................................................D2 3 Chinese Garden of Friendship ..................D4

Madame Tussauds ............................. (see 7) ý Entertainment (p107) 4 Sydney Fish Market....................................B3 18 IMAX.............................................................D3 Sydney Sea Life Aquarium ................ (see 7) 19 Monkey Baa Theatre Company................D4 5 The Star........................................................C2 Sydney Lyric ........................................(see 5) 6 Tumbalong Park..........................................D4

7 Wild Life Sydney Zoo .................................D2 Ø Sports & Activities (p107) 20 Harbour Jet .................................................D2 ú Eating (p105) 21 Ian Thorpe Aquatic Centre .......................C4 8 Adriano Zumbo ...........................................C2 22 James Craig ................................................C2 9 Café Court....................................................C2 23 Magistic Cruises......................................... D2 10 Cafe Morso .................................................. C1 24 Sailing Sydney ............................................D2 11 Flying Fish.................................................... C1 25 Sydney Showboats .................................... D2 12 Kazbah .........................................................C3

13 Sokyo............................................................C2 ÿ Sleeping (p188) 14 Zaaffran........................................................D3 26 1888 Hotel ..................................................C2 The Darling ...........................................(see 5)

250

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Page 23: 1 Sydney - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/sydney-11-contents.pdfPaddington & Centennial Park Inner West Bondi to Coogee p168 p69 p156 p108 p122 p136 p85 p52 p102 p144

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æ Sights (p138) 16 LL Wine & Dine..............C3 ý Entertainment (p143) 1 Artspace......................... B2 17 Ms G's.............................C3 33 El Rocco..........................C4 2 Elizabeth Bay House .... D2 18 Otto Ristorante ..............B1 Old Fitz Theatre... (see 27) 3 Fitzroy Gardens............. D3 19 Piccolo Bar.....................D3

4 McElhone Stairs.............C1 20 Room 10 .........................D3 ÿ Sleeping (p190) 5 Woolloomooloo 21 Toby's Estate................. A3 34 Blue Parrot.....................D2 Finger Wharf................B1 22 Wilbur's Place................C3 35 BLUE Sydney..................B1 23 Yellow ..............................D1 36 Diamant..........................C4 ú Eating (p138) 24 Zinc ................................. D2 37 Eva's Backpackers........ C3 6 Aki's .................................B1 38 Hotel 59..........................D4 7 Apollo..............................D2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p141) 39 Jackaroo.........................C4 8 Bourke Street Bootleg ................. (see 28) 40 Macleay Hotel ...............D2 Bakery ......................... D2 25 Jimmy Lik's....................C3 41 Maisonette Hotel........... D2 9 Cafe Sopra..................... D2 26 Kings Cross Hotel .........C4 42 Mariners Court ..............C2 10 Chester White................ C3 Kit & Kaboodle..... (see 29) 43 Original 11 China Doll........................B1 27 Old Fitzroy Hotel ........... B3 Backpackers 12 Cho Cho San.................. D2 28 Soho................................C3 Lodge...........................C3 13 Fratelli Paradiso .............D1 29 Sugarmill........................C3 44 Simpsons of Potts 14 Guzman y Gomez ......... C4 30 Tilbury ............................ B2 Point..............................C1 15 Harry's Cafe de 31 Waterbar .........................B1 45 The Bayswater ..............C4 Wheels......................... B2 32 World Bar .......................C4 46 Victoria Court Hotel...... C3

257

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Page 28: 1 Sydney - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/sydney-11-contents.pdfPaddington & Centennial Park Inner West Bondi to Coogee p168 p69 p156 p108 p122 p136 p85 p52 p102 p144

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Page 29: 1 Sydney - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/sydney-11-contents.pdfPaddington & Centennial Park Inner West Bondi to Coogee p168 p69 p156 p108 p122 p136 p85 p52 p102 p144

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Bronte Beach (300m)

æ Top Sights (p158) 13 Pompei's ........................ B2 24 Gertrude & Alice............ B2 1 Bondi Beach .................. C2 14 Sabbaba ......................... B2 25 Rip Curl........................... B2 15 Sean's Panaroma.......... C2 26 Surfection ...................... B2 æ Sights (p159) 16 The Shop.........................B1

2 Aboriginal Rock Ø Sports & Activities (p167) Engravings...................D1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p165) 27 Bondi Golf & Diggers 3 Ben Buckler Point ......... D3 17 Anchor............................ B3 Club...............................D1 4 Bondi Pavilion................ C2 18 Beach Road Hotel ..........B1 Bondi Icebergs 5 Tamarama Beach ......... A4 Bucket List..............(see 4) Swimming Club...(see 8) 19 Corner House ................ A3 28 Let's Go Surfing............. D2 ú Eating (p161) Icebergs Bar ...........(see 8) 29 Skate Ramp ................... B2 6 A Tavola.......................... B2 20 Neighbourhood ..............B1 30 Workout Area ................C2 7 Bondi Trattoria.............. B3 21 North Bondi RSL ........... D2

Crabbe Hole............(see 8) ÿ Sleeping (p191) 8 Icebergs Dining ý Entertainment 31 Adina Apartments Room ........................... B3 Bondi Openair Bondi Beach ............... B2 9 Jed's Foodstore .............B1 Cinema .................(see 4) 32 Bondi Beach House ...... B3 10 La Piadina .......................B1 33 Bondi Beachouse 11 Lox, Stock & þ Shopping (p166) YHA ..............................B4 Barrel............................B1 22 Aquabumps ....................B1 34 Hotel Bondi .................... B2 12 Organic Republic ...........B1 23 Bondi Markets ................C1 35 Ravesi's .......................... B2

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æ Sights (p159) Ø Sports & Activities (p167) 1 Clovelly Beach.............................................C2 10 Clovelly Bowling Club ................................D2 2 Coogee Beach .............................................B3 11 Giles Baths ..................................................C3 3 Dolphin Point...............................................C3 12 Gordons Bay Underwater Nature 4 Waverley Cemetery.................................... C1 Trail ...........................................................C2 13 McIvers Baths.............................................B4 ú Eating (p164) 14 Ross Jones Memorial Pool........................B4 5 A Fish Called Coogee..................................B3 15 Wylie's Baths...............................................B4 6 Three Blue Ducks........................................ C1

ÿ Sleeping (p192) û Drinking & Nightlife (p165) Coogee Sands......................................(see 9) 7 Clovelly Hotel...............................................C2 16 Dive Hotel ....................................................B4 8 Coogee Bay Hotel .......................................B3

9 Coogee Pavilion ..........................................B3

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æ Sights (p170) 10 Bower Restaurant......... D5 19 Dripping Wet...................B1 1 Fairy Bower Beach........ D5 11 Chat Thai........................B4 20 Manly Bike Tours .......... B4 2 Manly Art Gallery & 12 Hugos Manly..................B4 21 Manly Kayak Centre ..... A4 Museum ...................... A4 13 Pure Wholefoods ..........B4 22 Manly Ocean 3 Manly Beach.................. C3 Adventures .................B4 4 Manly Cove .................... A4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p175) 23 Manly Surf School..........B1 5 Manly Sea Life 14 Bavarian Bier Café........ B5 24 Manly Waterworks........ A4 Sanctuary ................... A4 15 Hotel Steyne..................C3 25 Pro Dive ...........................B1 6 The Corso ...................... B4 16 Manly Wharf Hotel ........ B5 26 Skater HQ.......................C3

ú Eating (p171) þ Shopping (p176) ÿ Sleeping (p192) 7 Barefoot Coffee 17 Aloha Surf ...................... B3 27 101 Addison Road ......... D5 Traders........................ B3 28 Manly Bunkhouse ..........A1 8 Belgrave Cartel ............. B4 Ø Sports & Activities (p176) 29 Novotel Sydney Manly 9 BenBry Burgers ............ B4 18 Dive Centre Manly ........ B4 Pacific.......................... B3

263

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Peter DragicevichAfter a decade of frequent flights between his native New Zealand and Sydney, the lure of the bright lights and endless beach days drew Peter across the Tas-man on a more permanent basis. For the best part of the next decade he would call Sydney’s inner suburbs home, while managing the city’s most popular gay and lesbian newspaper, followed by a stable of upmarket food, fashion and photography magazines. More recently he’s coauthored dozens of titles for

Lonely Planet, including two previous editions of this guide and five other Australian titles. Peter wrote the Plan Your Trip and Explore Sydney chapters (excluding Sydney with Kids, Like a Local, For Free, Beaches, Day Trips from Sydney and Sleeping), along with the Understand Sydney and Survival Guide sections.

Miriam RaphaelMiriam has authored over a dozen books for Lonely Planet, racking up thou-sands of kilometres driving across Australia’s wide brown lands in pursuit of the greatest hidden beaches, outback-pub meals and curious characters. She regularly enthuses on all things travel for a range of Australian and international publications, while blogging about intrepid journeys with kids at

SevenSuitcases.com. After many years living in Australia’s extraordinary Northern Territory she has recently returned to her hometown of Sydney. Miriam wrote the Sydney with Kids, Like a Local, For Free, Beaches, Day Trips from Sydney and Sleeping chapters.

Read more about Peter at: lonelyplanet.com/members/peterdragicevich

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98311th edition – Dec 2015ISBN 978 1 74321 576 0© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 201510 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Our Writers

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’