05e Crafts and the Visual Arts in Malaysia-textiles and Embroidery

CRAFTS AND THE VISUAL ARTS IN MALAYSIATEXTILES AND EMBROIDERY

Development of local textiles

Cultural significance of textiles: Malay

Cultural significance of textiles: Sabah and Sarawak

Malay woven cloth

Batik craft and industry

Malay embroidery and tekat

Textile embellishment

Straits Chinese embroidery and beadwork

Textiles of Sabah

Textiles of Sarawak

Malay dress

Chinese and Indian dress

Costumes and ornaments of Sabah

Costumes and ornaments of Sarawak

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERY

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• Traditional textiles and embroidery in Malaysia are valued not only for their functionality, such as when used for clothing, but also for the beauty and status that they represent. The development of textiles and weaving techniques was in concert with the discovery and use of new materials: from tree bark and plant fibers in prehistoric times, to cotton, silk, gold threads and dyes. The Malay term kain (cloth) generally refers to any textile produced using the weaving technique.

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• Various textiles are produced from cotton using many techniques such as direct weaving (tenun langsung), single ikat (ikat tunggal) or embroidered weaving (tenun sulam). Of these techniques, single ikat, using a tie-dyed yarn, is one of the most familiar, and characteristic of some Bornean indigenous textiles. Silk textiles include those with gold thread or gold and silver yarn using the double ikat technique (ikat ganda). Today, the east coast states of Peninsular Malaysia are especially well known for songket and batik, and Perak for fine embroidery such as tekat.




• Many textiles have cultural significance, for instance, cindai (imported from India) and local kain limar and songket have long held a place in Malay society, being used for important occasions and traditional costumes. Colors also played a role; it was recorded in 1405 that the ruler of Melaka was sent as a gift a suit of silk clothing and a yellow umbrella. The latter has been the emblem and color of Malay royalty ever since. The pua kumbu of Sarawak also has spiritual significance.




• Among the Malays and other indigenous peoples, abstract designs and motifs based on nature are the most favored. The Malays use an interplay of geometric forms to pattern their sarong and songket, including interlocking chevrons and diamonds. Stylized designs such as awan larat (meandering clouds) and pucuk rebung (bamboo shoots) are two typical designs. The Iban of Sarawak use woven motifs to symbolize an event, thought or even a dream, with designs handed down from mother to daughter, while the people of Sabah prefer stripes and geometric designs




• The Straits Chinese are known for their embroidered kebaya, a long-sleeved blouse with characteristic intricate lacework worn with a sarong, and their highly elaborate beadwork found on accessories such as belts, slippers, handbags, tapestries and bedspreads. The products of these crafts are once again popular among Malaysians.

• Some textile crafts continue to thrive partly due to prevalent fashion trends, but others have declined due to the laboriousness and intricacy, and thus cost, of production. For these latter crafts to survive, innovations are required, be they design, function or production techniques.




POS Malaysia stamps that feature distinctive Nonya embroidered blouses.


TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYDevelopment of local textiles

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• Prior to the arrival of Europeans in the 16th century CE, the early textiles and weaving traditions of the Malay Peninsula, Sabah and Sarawak were heavily influenced by trade with Indian, Chinese and Arab merchants of the ‘water silk route’. Inspired by the foreign textiles imported in this way, unique indigenous and local textiles evolved and flourished.

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Royal protective attire made from an Ottoman textile and woven with Islamic

verses (18th century). Such jackets have been used by early Kelantan sultans.

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eimyleyanaomar/PDA/KU/MAH-DPH2012/SEM2/YEAR1http://lamanseni09.blogspot.com/2011/03/tenunan.html 10

http://lamanseni09.blogspot.com/2011/03/tenunan.html

TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYCultural significance of textiles: Malay

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• Textiles and clothing play an important role as ritual paraphernalia in Malay culture. At one time, some of the more exotic and luxurious textiles, for example, yellow coloured textiles and those woven with gold thread, were exclusively used for the attire of royalty and the aristocracy. Cloth was not only made into blankets (ulas modom), infant carriers (kain dukung) and long shawls (selendang panjang), but was also offered as ritual gifts.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYCultural significance of textiles: Malay


Purple songket cloth hantaran arranged as a peacock. Such beautiful designs were

common in the old days.


TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYCultural significance of textiles: Sabah and Sarawak


• The textiles of Sabah and Sarawak form part of the traditional costumes of the indigenous people of these states and are used for ceremonial occasions and special purposes. Of these textiles, those of the Iban, especially the pua kumbu, have distinct religious significance—pua kumbu features in Iban myths, has traditionally been an important part of their ceremonies and rituals, and has symbolic designs and a creation process which are inextricably connected to their beliefs and the supernatural world.



TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYCultural significance of textiles: Sabah and Sarawak


Iban child’s kelambi vest woven with geometric and protectiveengkaramba spirit figures using the

sophisticated sungkit(embroidery on the loom) technique (c. 1900s).



TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYMalay woven cloth

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• The first textiles produced locally were woven from local plant fibres, which were later replaced by cotton. Early trade with merchants from India, China, Persia, Arabia and elsewhere introduced new textiles and materials and new dimensions of weaving, as did the introduction of the frame loom by Europeans in the late 16th century. Traditional styles of weaving are still practised today and there has been an increase in handwoven textiles such as songket.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYMalay woven cloth

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The frame loom

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYBatik craft and industry

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• The word ‘batik’ in Malaysia generally describes the process of decorating cloth using the block printing (cap) or hand-drawn (canting) techniques, or a combination of both. The method of dyeing and colouring varies with the use of material of various textures, such as cotton, silk, rayon and organza. It may also be identified by the range of traditional designs and motifs used. Batik has become a symbol of national pride and a form of attire for all races. It is now distinctly Malaysian.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYBatik craft and industry

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Silk batik tulis shirts like this are worn by men as formal wear.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYMalay embroidery and tekat

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• Malay embroidery and tekat The art of gold thread embroidery has long been practiced by Malay women. As it was originally a court art, such embroidery was traditionally associated with royal garments and court paraphernalia. In tekat embroidery, gold and silver threads are embroidered on a dark base fabric, usually velvet, and may be embellished with glass beads or sequins. It is now usually crafted for special purposes, such as to adorn the bridal dais and matrimonial bed, or to decorate food covers, pillow ends, bridal hand-held fans, betel sets, shoes and curtains.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYMalay embroidery and tekat

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Floral motif early 20th century octagonal bolster end from Kuala Kangsar decorated with tekat bersuji on maroon

velvet with a lace border (Henry Bong Permanent Collection).

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYTextile embellishment


• Traditionally, woven fabrics were often embellished. Cloth was polished using cowrie seashells to produce a lustre (kain gerus) or gilded with gold leaf or foil (kain telepuk). Rainbow cloth (kain pelangi) was tie-dyed using the dye resistant technique or other types of decoration were applied, including gems, mirrors, beads, sequins and appliqué work. However, until the early 20th century, gilt decoration was solely within the province of royalty and the aristocracy.


TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYTextile embellishment


Common telepuk motifsComplex pattern used along top of head-panel.


TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYStraits Chinese embroidery and beadwork

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• The Straits Chinese heritage is reflected in a wide range of traditions and crafts, such as the contribution of Chinese embroidery and Malay costume embodied in the elegant Nonya kebaya, traditionally worn by their women and now a fashionable form of attire for all Malaysian women. They were skilled at silk and metal thread embroidery and beadwork and, consistent with other heritage items, their motifs had predominantly Chinese and European influences.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYStraits Chinese embroidery and beadwork

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Nyonya (Straits Chinese women) were traditionally easily identified by their

embroidered kebaya, a version of the Malay baju kebaya

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYTextiles of Sabah

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• Unlike other locations in the region, neither Hindu or Islamic cultures left a mark on the traditional material culture of Sabah, except for that of the coastal peoples. The production of indigenous textiles remained largely intact, although it is now a declining art. From intricate linangkit panels to hand-woven dastar head cloths and embroidered kain pis, the indigenous woven crafts of Sabah are worthy of admiration, and should be preserved.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYTextiles of Sabah

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Kain dastar folded as a headcloth and examples of motif designs, the horse and rider common to the Bajau people and a

stylized geometric pattern.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYTextiles of Sarawak

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• The earliest cloth used in Sarawak was made of tree bark and formed the clothing of most of the state’s indigenous groups. The subsequent introduction of the back strap loom and cotton yarn, probably originating from India, led to the establishment of a continuing weaving tradition and the creation of woven textiles for clothing as well as ceremonial and ritual purposes. The most famous textile is the tie-dyed pua kumbu of the Iban, whose weavers also produce a form of brocaded cloth and a striking supplementary weft textile called sungkit.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYTextiles of Sarawak

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The backstrap loom

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYMalay dress

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• The Malays have a long tradition of wearing elaborate costumes indigenous to their own culture, and have always worn them with pride. The rich colours, motifs, luxurious fabrics and the way clothes were worn displayed status and their celebration of beauty. Traditional styles are still worn today for everyday as well as more formal wear.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERYMalay dress

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The Royal tengkolok of the Yang di-Pertuan Agong, the King of Malaysia, is made from songket and adorned with a

headpin of gold and diamonds. The fold design from Negeri Sembilan is called ikatan dendam tak sudah and remains a

popular style even today.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERY Chinese and Indian dress

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• The rich and vibrant costume traditions of the Chinese and Indians of multi-ethnic Malaysia are evident not only in their everyday life but also on religious, festive and formal occasions. The traditional cheongsam, embroidered kebaya and sari are the costumes most embodying the style and essence of Chinese, Straits Chinese and Indian women respectively. A wide variety of textiles are utilized including sumptuous brocades, velvet, satins and silks, gauzy chiffons, delicate lace and simple cottons.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERY Chinese and Indian dress

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERY Costumes and ornaments of Sabah

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• The population of Sabah is heterogeneously and culturally diverse, as are its equally varied range of traditional costumes.These are relatively plain and simple, but are enhanced by an array of jewellery and ornaments. The need to meet new modesty standards, to establish identity and differentiate between the ethnic groups and the growing emphasis on cultural tourism and the attendant economic benefits have led indigenous craftsmen to reinvent and modify inherited artistic traditions and styles of costume and ornamentation.

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TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERY Costumes and ornaments of Sabah


Supu, a round silver engraved tobacco case worn by men attached to their belt.


TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERY Costumes and ornaments of Sarawak


• The traditional costumes of the peoples of Sarawak are adorned with distinctive beadwork and needlework, a variety of metal objects, feathers, animal teeth, claws and tusks. Jewellery and ornaments including resplendent headdresses, colourful pompoms, and unique rattan and silver corsets are also worn. The prevalence and importance of beads in Sarawak, as decoration and as part of animist rites, continue even today


TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERY Costumes and ornaments of Sarawak


Necklace of glass beads, bear claws, brass bells, ancient Chinese coins and brass wire

coil worn by a priestess.


05e Crafts and the Visual Arts in Malaysia-textiles and Embroidery

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