0511_JMD-Enameling.pdf

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Jw Mk D t

How to Enamel Jewelry:

Expert Enameling

Tips, Tools,and Techniques


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www.JewelyMakiDaily.com 2

Jewelry Making Daily pres ents

How to Enamel Jewelry:Expert EnamelingTips, Tools, and Techniques

3

InTErwEavE noT To bE rEprInTEd all rIgHTs rEsErvEd

his pemium has bee published by Iteweae, 201 E. Fouth St., Loelad, CO 80537-5655; (970) 669-7672. Copyiht 2011 by Iteweae Pess LLC, a diisio o Aspie Media,

all ihts eseed. he cotets o this publicatio may ot be epoduced eithe i whole o i pat without coset o the copyiht owe.

I LOvE COLOr! I jewely maki,eamel is oe o the most esatile

souces o pue, luscious colopow-

deed lass you ca apply with eat

pecisio oto sile, old, coppe, ad

othe jewely metals. With eamels,

you ca pait with a boad bush o

add miute ad elaboate detail to

pedats, bacelets, eais, ad moe.

You ca wok i ich, satuated toes

o i the subtlest o pastels. You ca ceate a wold o shap

cotast i black ad white o oe etiely o shades o ay.

You ca ee mimic the colos o the est emstoes, but you

ca also poduce hues ad pattes youd ee d amo thetays o stoes at ay em show.

I this abulous ee eBook,Jewelry Making Daily presents

How to Enamel Jewelry: Expert Enameling Tips, Tools, and

Techniques, youll d thee useul ad ispii uides to mak-

i eameled jewely. I Eameli, Lapidary Journal Jewelry

Artist s techique ad tool mae Hele Dis aswes the

questio What is eamel, shows you whats i the metal-

smiths eameli tool kit, ad explais some basic eameliules o the oad. I 21 Eameli ips, Hele shaes 21 top

tips om Maiae Hute, Amy rope Lyos, Kae L. Cohe,

ad Majoie Simoou o the most accomplished eamel-

ist jeweles woki today! Ad i Eameled Filiee Beads,

Pam East walks you thouh a simple techique o toch i

eamel oto a pemade bead usi a hadheld butae toch

istead o a eameli kil. Te eamel adds colo to the

bead, while the sile liee ceates the look o delicate cells

like those i cloiso eamel wok.

Whethe youe just exploi jewely eameli o the st

time o hae bee eameli jewely o yeas,Jewelry Making

Daily presents How to Enamel Jewelry: Expert Enameling Tips,

Tools, and Techniques is sue to teach you somethi ew

about oe o the jeweles most exciti ad coloul tech-

iques.

Merle WhiteEdito-i-Chie, Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist

EnamEling

BY HELEn I. DrIggS

21 EnamEling Tips

BY HELEn I. DrIggS

7

EnamElEd FiligrEE BEads

BY PAM EAST

10


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II hae always loed the gleaming colors o transparent glass.

My mom had a display window where she organized her

collection o antique cobalt blue glass and lead crystal so the

sun could shine through it. I loed watching the mini rainbowsmoe across the liing room ceiling and walls as the sunlight

was split into prismatic colors by cut glass. Its only natural that

the gleam o glass on metal appeals to meespecially in the

orm o transparent enamels.

Te world o enamels requires a dierent mindset than

metal orming and abrication. Because o my graphic design

training, it was a relatiely easy transition to start painting color

on metal in the orm o powdered glass. Te most important

thing to do when enameling is to eep eerything clean. And by

clean, I mean really, really clean. One small particle o dust or a

grain o a dierent color o enamel can ruin hours o wor.

Contamination is always a hazard, so go slowly and be

careul as you worand remember, it is extremely important

to label eerything. Because fred glass loos dierent rompowdered glass, mae sure you write the color number on both

the storage jar and its lid. Dont open more than one jar at a

time. Stic to one brand i you can, and eep those enamels dry.

When in doubt, throw it out is a motto used in the itchen

that wors equally in the enameling studio.

Despite these constraints, its easy to get started enameling,

and with a small inestment in tools and supplies , you can

create a gleaming stone o colorul glass on metal to set into

your next bezel. And, metal clay artists: good news! Tere are

cool new enamel products and tools or you, too!

EnamelingAdd a little color

to your metal

BY HELEn I. DrIggS

Originally publisheD in Lapidary JournaL JeweLry artist, July 2009

OPENING PHOO BY JIM LAWSON

SORY PHOOS BY HE AUHOR(UNLESS OHERWISE NOED)


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mETalsmiTHs EnamEling Tool kiTI coeted a simple, used aae sale table ito my eameli statio. I coe the tabletop with esh, white butche pape (you ca buy it

i olls at a estauat supply o bulk ood stoe) eey time I wok. Hees a list o the tools I keep i my eamel kit:

1. Paticulate dust maskcitically impotat

2. Apo

3. EamelsI oly useuleaded eamels

4. Eamel stoae jas

5. Solutio o holdieamel to metaloilo wate base

6. Distilled wate7. Mesh staies

8. Detal tools

9. Sable bushes oeamel oly

10. Sable bush o holdisolutio oly

11. Stilts ad mesh stads

12. Fii ok o spatula

13. Fuace oo shel

14. Fuace/kil

Also: Kiln wash, lint-free paper

towels, clean Solderite pad forenamel only

I leaed this tick om some lampwokes I kow. Sice I use a small tiket kil to e my eamel pieces, I set it up o my stailess

steel soldei statio o a sheet o Hadibacke boad om the Home Depot. Tis liht ay solid cemet backe boad is commoly

used behid ceamic tile, but it is extemely e esistat ad elatiely iexpesie. It comes i 3' x 5' sheets o about $10 to $15, ad

you ca coe a lae soldei aea with it. I still aeal i a aeali pa, ad solde o a ebick, but the Hadibacke is a exta

measue o heat potectio. Ie ee had a oeheati poblem aywhee i the studio sice I stated usi it. Whe it ets eally

oss, I eplace it with a esh sheet.

EnamElingBY HELEn I. DrIggS

gradE mEsH FirsT

Because eamel is cushed lass, most batches eed to be

ade sited o the best colo ad eliable behaio. Oce you et

those little eelopes o colo, youll eed to et you eamel eady

to use, so a hady tool to ow is a set o mesh tays with specic

umbes o holes pe ich. I puchased a set o tays that icludes a

solid oe o the bottom, so I ca stack the tays om laest mesh

to smallest, ad pou the powdeed lass i the topit will sit

thouh to the est mesh i the bottom. Te, I obsessiely label

each stoae ja ad lid with the ade, mauactue, ad colo

umbe. I use ed lids o opaque colos, ad white o taspaet.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

910

11

12

13 14


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Easily wasH and drain your EnamElsBeliee it o ot, plai, white, at-bottom coee ltes ad a uel ae the best way to dai eamels you hae washed. Tis is especially

impotat with taspaet eamels, ot as citical o opaques. Fist, put a coee lte ito the uel ad place these ito a ja o lass to

catch the wash wate. Dot pou the wash wate dow the dai! Let it eapoate, ad wipe the esidue out o the ja oto a pape towel.

Dispose o that pape towel i the tash. Hees how to wash you eamel:

4 5 6

1 2 3

EnamEl TEsT FirE samplEsIts almost impossible to detemie what colo ay paticula eamel will be based

o a chip you see i a pited catalo o website. Ee whe youe odeed

eamel, powdeed lass ad ed lass look ey dieet, ad the metal you e ito will aect the al esult. Its a ood idea to ceate a test stip o eey eamel

you buy, so you ca detemie what the esults miht be o you kil, you ux,

you eamel, o you metal. Hees what to do:

Cut a ich by 1 ich stip o 24-aue coppe. Pickle ad ise well. Puch a

hai hole i the cete o the top ede. Use umeal stamps to puch the

eamel colo umbe o the stip. With a scibe, ule 4 lies (stati at the bottom

ede) at ich icemets. Scub both sides o the coppe with clease ad steel

wool util wate sheets o the suace. rise well ad dy without touchi the

metal suace.

Photo 1 Pou a small amout o desiedeamel ito a clea shot lass with staiht

sides.

Photo 2 Add some distilled wate ad swil

the eamel ad wate aoud.

Photo 3 Let the shot lass sit o a miuteo two.

Photo 4 Pou o the wash wate (ot the

eamel) ito the coee lte.

Photo 5 repeat this pocess util the washwate us clea. Tis usually takes 2 to 3

washis.

Photo 6 ase the washed eamel to a

stoae cotaie ad label it.

a | sit enamel directly on themetal. Fire and clean well.

B | sit enamel oer enamel lux.Fire and clean well.

C | sit enamel oer a strip osiler oil. Fire and clean well.

D | sit enamel oer a strip ogold oil. Fire and clean well.

Counter enamel the bac o

the strip.

I you intend to enamel on siler

instead o copper, ollow the

same process to mae a siler

test ire sample, but eliminate

section C, because you probably

wouldnt use siler oil on a

siler piece.


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EnamEl Tools For mETal clay arTisTs

TorcH FirEd EnamElsoch i eamels is a somewhat hai-aisi expeiece, because the esults ae completely

upedictable. Oxides om the metal will mix with the molte lass as you put the wok

to the toch, ad ote beautiul speckled, pock maks o staied aeas o ee, black, o

olde bow will leach ito the lass as you e.

t h E r E a r E 3 i m P o r t a n t t h i n g s t o r E m E m B E r i f y o u D

l i k E t o t r y t o r C h f i r i n g :

1 Wok i a well-etilated studio whe you toch e. You piece miht smoke as the

adhesie bus away, especially i you ae usi a oil based poduct.

2 A popae-ueled toch bus cleae, so iest i a potable popae plumbi toch om

the hadwae stoe i youd like to ty this techique.

3 Keep the piece at the base o the ame to aoid excess oxidatio. Fie om the udeside topesee the colo o the lass o the ot, ad e util the colo o the wok is a oeall,lowi billiat ed. Cool the wok o a stilt o heatpoo Pyex dish beoe moi it.

Althouh I haet used metal clay ey much, I hae to admit they

keep comi up with ew, itiui poducts that make me wat

to ie it a ty. A ew poduct called raibow Metal Clay Ultimate

Eameli Kit seems like a iteesti way to exploit the plastic

quality o metal clayyou ca mix coloed eamel iht i beoe you

e it. o me, this seems like a way to eplicate the look o aodized

titaium o alumium. You ca also add the eamel colo ate the

metal clay has bee ed. Tis kit woks with low e clays, ad icludes

a complete istuctio maual. Ill hae to check this poduct out

sometime soo, because it eally ot me thiki about etti the

look o textued o oed aodized titaium without the iheet

diculties o woki with it.

Aothe kit that came acoss my desk is called Its Colosby Shei

Haab desis, ad woks o metal clay ad othe o-poous mateials.

Powdeed pimets ae mixed with a liquid bide ad paited o bae

metal. Te, you use a heat u to set the colo to make it had ad

duable. I haet ued out exactly what Ill do with these, but I kow

oe thi o suei the colos tu out to be compatible with 2-pat

epoxy esi, Ill deitely be putti them to use.

I hope to expeimet with these kits whe I et some time.

You ca et them both hee: www.metalclaysupply.com,

800-388-2001 o 903-586-2531.


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Originally publisheD in Lapidary JournaL JeweLry artist, July 2009

21 Enameling TipsGuidance from four expert enamelists

BY HELEn I. DrIggS

ENAMELWORk CAN BE DONE A MANY LEvELS,

DRAWING ON HE SkILLS OF HE GOLDSMIH,

PAINER, AND CHEMIS. HERE ARE SOME GREA

IPS FROM FOUR ARISS WHO HAvE DEvOED HEIR

CAREERS O MASERING HE AR OF GLASS ON MEAL.

M A R I A N N E H U N E Rw w w . h u n t e r - s t u d i o s . c o m

1Beak ules. Bei tauht is wodeul, but also ty what catbe doe. Te esults may be a majo beakthouh o you wok, i

ot o the eld i eeal. Beaki ew oud is a thill.

2Fo some detailed sots o wok, thie layes o lass built upbetwee moe equet is ca ie you a eate measue o

cotol.

3It is bette i most istaces to udee (you ca put it backi the kil) tha to oeei which detail is lost, ad colos ,

especially sesitie eds/piks/puples, ca be siicatly alteed.

Howee: oei is a useul techique to exploe. Lumious

beauty ca be achieed thee (see tip #1).

4 Little bechtop cotact kils ae peect o small pieces. Teyuse less eey, i is quick, ad timi ey cotollable.

5 I coe the opei i the top o my bechtop kil with a shieldIe made om may layes o olded alumium oil. I pop it i

place ad moe it with 7" tweezes o access. Tis keeps the heat i,

which helps whe i o a tiet ad is healthie o you eyes.

6A aloe ea plat ea the studio is eat o bus! aped iplace, it will cool a 2d deee bu eouh to keep woki (but weecommed ot bui yousel as a ee bette alteatie!).

7You ca ee hae too may X-acto kie blades.

8Cleai coppe with Pey-bite is much easie tha usi aBiht Boy.

DaWn Dragonfly. DAWN DRAGONFLY PAINED IN MIS, CLOUDS ON HEWAER, FLOWERS IN H E FIELDS. PHOO: HAP SAkWA. PRIvAE COLLECION.
http://www.hunter-studios.com/http://www.hunter-studios.com/http://www.hunter-studios.com/


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21 EnamEling tiPsBY HELEn I. DrIggS www.JewelyMakiDaily.com 8

AMY ROPER LYONSw w w . a m y r o p e r l y o n s . c o m

9 extue the suace o you e sile beoe eameli withtaspaets. Whe the piece is ished, it will look moe alie as

liht plays acoss its suace.

10 As you slowly ll you cloiso cells laye by laye, i youchae you mid about a aea, o dot like how some colo is

comi out, lay dow sile o old oil to coe that aea ad you

ca bei to ll aai with a ew colo.

11aspaets i ey small cells ted to look dak, ad thecolos dull. remedy this by usi a opaque, o by usi oil ude

you taspaet colo to bihte it.

12o apply aules o old o sile to the suace o youeamel piece, ish all othe eameli steps, ad stoe ad sad

you piece to a e ish, about 1200 it. Usi a diamod ball

bu, id a small depessio i the exact spot that you wat each

aule to sit. Te place the aules with Kly-Fye. Tis way, the

aules wot moe aoud as the lass sotes i the kil.

13Use stailess steel i acks to elimiate oxide aki o theack, which ca cotamiate you eamel.

kAREN L. COHENw w w . k c e n a m e l s . c o m

14 Whe woki with sile (e o steli), be sue to puta laye o clea eamel ude the wam colos like eds, piks, ad

oaes ad opalescet white. Without the clea, these colos hae

chemical eactios to the sile ad will chae to what you ae ot

expecti.

15 Whe wet-packi with opaque colos, put i a ew dops oKly-Fie to help keep them i place.

16 Whe wet-packi taspaet colos, be sue to keep youlayes thithis will help achiee the best claity o colo.

17 Sometimes whe i taspaet eamels o coppe thecolo has a tomato-ed cast to it. Tis is because the oxide i the

coppe has ot bee take ito the solutio o the eamel. I some

cases you miht wat this, but to et the cleaest colo ty this: put

dow a base coat o clea taspaet ad e it hih eouh ad

lo eouh so that the tomato colo is oe.

starfish Pin/PEnDant. 1.25" DIAMETER, 0.3 D. 18k AND 24k GOLD, ENAMEL ONFINE SILvER. CLOISONN ENAMEL, HOLLOW-FORMED, AND FABRICATED. PHOTO BY THE ARTIST.

PaislEy

PlEasurEs.

CLOISONN BROOCH.
http://www.amyroperlyons.com/http://www.amyroperlyons.com/http://www.kcenamels.com/http://www.kcenamels.com/http://www.kcenamels.com/http://www.amyroperlyons.com/


9/12




21 EnamEling tiPsBY HELEn I. DrIggS

MARJORIE SIMONw w w . m a r j o r i e s i m o n . c o m

18Haispay i a pump bottle makes a eat adhesie. Beialcohol based, it dies quicke tha Kly-Fie ad you ca pou

a little ito a souf cup ad mix it up just like wate to apply

eamel with a bush.

19Fo eamelists like me who ae petty much shake-ad-bake, e a st coat with ade-sited 80 mesh ais (held

oto the metal with haispay, o couse), the ll i a secod

coat with 100 mesh o a smooth coat ad ood coeae. Te

lae ais ie moe itese colo ad the smalle oes ll i

aoud them o the secod coat.

20Oh, ad ee, ee multi-task while i!

ENAMELIS SOCIEYw w w . e n a m e l i s t s o c i e t y . o r g

21Lea moe about eamels om the Eamelist Society,a eat esouce o iomatio suitable o eamelists om

complete beies to expeieced poessioals.

sElECtion of rED Ear Disks. 1" DIAMETER. vITREOUSENAMEL ON EMBOSSED COPPER. PHOTO: RALPH GABRINER.
http://www.marjoriesimon.com/http://www.marjoriesimon.com/http://www.marjoriesimon.com/http://www.enamelistsociety.org/http://www.enamelistsociety.org/http://www.enamelistsociety.org/http://www.marjoriesimon.com/


10/12




Enameled Filigree BeadsAdd a touch of color to these delicate beads.

BY PAM EAST

Originally publisheD in step by step beads | Marchapril 2004

s k i l l s

n fabricationn solderingn stone settingn bead stringing

In October, 2003, I had the pleasure o

being inoled in the Lapidary Journal

and Step by Step Beads Bead Fest.

One o the best aspects o participating

in a show lie this is the opportunity to

connect with other endors and artists,

picing up new ideas and inspiration.

During the show, Cosmo, o Cosmo andHarini, came by my booth and watched me

demonstrating torch-fred enamel bead

maing. A short time later, he came bac

and showed me some fne siler fligree

beads he was selling and ased, Can you

enamel these? I wasnt sure, but I thought

it might be worth a try.

Right then and there, I pulled out some powdered enamel in transparent blue,

popped one o the beads onto my mandrel, and gae it a go. o my surprise and

delightit wored beautiully! O course, I immediately wanted a double handul

o these little beauties. Once you try it, you will too!

I recommend using these beads or earrings and neclaces, not

bracelets. Te enamel on the fligree is ragile and would suer

under the abuse bracelets endure.

Note: Sile ca act as a coloat to some eamels, tui them a

uattactie bowish colo; eds, piks, ad oaes ae paticulaly

susceptible to this. Blue ad ee shades wok best, but you ca

et some success with eds i you use seeal coats o Clea o

Sile st. Te esults wot be as billiat as these colos usually

e up, but you ca et some ice sot pik toes.

PHOTO OF FINISHED PIECE BY FRANk DESANTIS; ALL OTHERPHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.


11/12




EnamElED filigrEE BEaDsBY PAM EAS

m a t e r i a l s

Busiess cad8" ceamic tile12" ceamic tilevemiculite (a soil lihtee)

Shallow pa80 mesh taspaet eamelFie sile liee beads

t o o l s

hanD tools: 6" slip joit plies," madel tip, badi wheel (at

topped lazy Susa), small spoo

solDEring tools: ie-stat

popae toch, toch holde, popaecylide400 (14.1 oz)

s a f e t y e q u i p m e n t

Fie extiuishe, saety lasses, dust mask

s o u r c e s

Most o the tools ad mateials othis poject will be aailable omwell-stocked lapiday supplies.

1 Lay out a taspaet colo o 80 mesheamel o the ede o the tile; I ecommeda deep, hih pile. Because youe eameli a

oud om, youll eed the moud to be able

to coe the bead all the way to the hole.

2 Place a bead mly o the " madel tip.Youll eed to use you es, ot plies, to

put the bead o the madel, so make sue

the madel tip is cool. Fie-sile liee

beads ae quite delicate ad ca bed easily,

so be cautious with them, ad dot oce it.

Hae two madels set up so you ca switchback ad oth, allowi the tips to cool

betwee beads.

3 Heat the bead i the toch ame util ittus a liht pik salmo colo, not ed. Tese

sile beads heat up i othi at so watch

it closely: the sile will oeheat ad melt i

the blik o a eye i you leae it i the toch

ame too lo.

4 roll the bead i powdeed eamel adetu it to the toch ame. Cotiue woki

quickly, heati it just eouh to pick up

aothe laye o eamel. Dot ty to et it to

a lossy ish util youe added 4 o 5 layes;

thee eeds to be eouh eamel o the sile

to isulate it om the toch ame.

5 Oce you hae multiple layes o eamelo the bead, heat it to the lossy stae bywoki the bead quickly i ad out o the

toch ame, otati it cotiuously. remoe

the bead om the madel, usi plies to

push it o ito a shallow pa o emiculite.

6 Tats all thee is to it! Tese beads dotee eed to be aealed ad will be cool ad

eady to use i about e miutes.

PAM EAS is a eamelist, educato, wie, ad

mothe. She was bo ad aised i Calioiawhee she studied At ad At Histoy at

the Uiesity o Calioia rieside. She

has woked with a wide aiety o isual at

techiques ad ejoys ceati uique eamel

bead jewely, but ds itoduci eamel

bead maki to ew studets eeywhee to

be the most ewadi aspect o he caee.

She has appeaed o the Caol Duall Show o

Hgv, ad has he ow ideo, Enamel Bead

Makingwith Pam East. You ca cotact Pam

at [email protected] o lea moe about he

compay, Pizat, at www.pizat.com.


12/12


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SINCE

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