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INCI: Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Spreading value: 1600 mm2 / 10 min

Sensory feeling: dry, volatile silicon oil like

Skin compatibility: excellent

Stability: hydrolysis stable

Origin: vegetable (fatty alcohol)

Biodegrability: yes

It‘s personnel data

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What can it do for you?

Skin CleansingSkin Cleansing

Deodorants / APsDeodorants / APs

Sun CareSun CareSkin CareSkin Care

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Superior skin compatibility

ADVANTAGES:

Sk

in C

are

Smoothes the skin

Dry, silicon oil like skin feel

Fast spreading emollient

Good emulsifiability

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Fast spreading emollient

Sk

in C

are

Smoothness

Time

Cetiol® PGL

Cetiol® J 600

Cetiol® CC

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Emollient INCI Spreading Value [mm2/10 min]

Cyclomethicone > 2600 highCetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 1600Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether 1600

Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 750 mediumCetiol® PGL Hexyldecanol/Hexyldecyl Laurate 750Eutanol® G 16 Hexyldecanol 600Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 550

Cetiol® J 600 Oleyl Erucate 350 slowAlmond Oil Prunus Dulcis 200

Spreading Values

Sk

in C

are

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Superior skin compatibilityMethod: Human Patchtest, 20 % AS in cosmetic alcohol

Sk

in C

are

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Irritation Score (Erytheme)

Ce

tio

l® C

C

IPM N-Hexadecan

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Emulsifiability of different emollients

Sk

in C

are

Ingredients INCI w/w%

Eumulgin® VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 4.5Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin

Emollient 16.0Carbopol 2 % Carbomer 15.0KOH 20 % Kaliumhydroxide 0.6Water Aqua 63.9

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Good emulsifiability

magnification 400 x

50 µm

Droplet Size: E

Droplet Size: D

Droplet Size: C

Sk

in C

are

Standard formulation with Eumulgin® VL 75

Droplet Size: B

Droplet Size: A

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Ingredient INCI Droplet Size

Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides A

Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate BEutanol® G Octyldodecanol B

Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether CMyritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride C

Paraffinum Liquidum C

Cyclomethicone D

Sk

in C

are

Emulsifiability of different emollients with Eumulgin® VL 75

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O/W Emulsion with Cetiol® CC Rec. DE 99/239/6

Ingredients INCI w/w %

Emulgade® PL 68/50 Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol 2.5Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.5Amphisol K Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 0.5Cutina® GMS-V Glyceryl Stearate 1.0Novata® AB Cocoglycerides 1.0Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 5.0Copherol® F 1300 Tocopherol 1.0Siliconoil Wacker AK 350 Dimethicone 0.5

Carbopol 980 Carbomer 0.3Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 6.0

Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 5.0KOH 20 % Potassium Hydroxide 0.6Perfume, Preservative q.s.Water Aqua 74.1

Sk

in C

are

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W/O Emulsion with Cetiol® CC Rec. DE 99/244/3

Ingredients INCI w/w %

Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 3.0Lameform® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 1.0Zincum N29 Zinc Stearate 1.0Cetiol® A Hexyl Laurate 6.0Cetiol® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate 5.0Eutanol® G 16 Hexyldecanol 1.0Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 8.0

Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 5.0MgSO4

.7H2O Magnesium Sulfate 1.0

Perfume, Preservative q.s.Water Aqua 69.0

Sk

in C

are

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ADVANTAGES:

Su

n C

are

Solubility for crystalline UV filter

Dispersing performance for pigments

Increase of UV absorption

SPF enhancing capacity

Balanced sensory due to spreading ability

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Sp

read

ing

fast

slow

Solubilitylittle high

Su

n C

are

Solubility for crystalline UV filter & Spreading performance

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Cetiol® OE Cetiol® CC

Myritol® 331

Cyclomethicone

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Assessment criterion: clear aspect after 1 week at 15°C

Solubility for crystalline UV filter

Su

n C

are

Solubility [%]

0

5

10

15

20

25

Cet

iol®

CC

Cyclo-methicone

Butyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

C12-15

Alkyl BenzoateMyritol® 331

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Su

n C

are

Assessment criterion: clear aspect after 1 week at 15°C

Solubility for crystalline UV filter

C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate

Myritol® 3310

5

10

15

20

25

30C

etio

l® C

C 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor

Solubility [%]

Cyclo-methicone

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Su

n C

are

Dispersing performance for pigments

A C

METHOD:Titanium dioxide was dispersed into the emollient understirring without homogenisation(80 parts Emollient + 20 parts Titanium Dioxide(Titanium Dioxide T 805, Degussa))

The pigment dispersion was assessed by microscopeexamination and viscosity behaviour

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Su

n C

are

Viscosity & Homogeneity of Pigment Dispersions

Emollient Viscosity Homogeneity (mPas)

Myritol 331 / Cocoglycerides 14 000 A

Cetiol® CC / Dicaprylyl Carbonate 9 000 B

Cetiol PGL / Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate 9 000 B

Paraffinum Liquidum 8 000 C

Cetiol OE / Dicaprylyl Ether 3 000 C

Cyclomethicone 3 000 C

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Su

n C

are

Formula for SPF determination Rec. DE 97/062/1

Ingredients INCI w/w %

Emollient 16.0Neo Heliopan E 1000 Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate 6.4Neo Heliopan BB Benzophenone-3 1.6Copherol® F 1300 Tocopherol 1.0Carbopol® ETD 2001 Carbomer 0.3Eumulgin® VL 75 Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, 3.5

Lauryl Glucoside, GlycerinGlycerin 86 % Glycerin 3.0Water Aqua 67.5KOH 20 % Potassium Hydroxide 0.7Perfume, preservative q.s.

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SPF enhancing capacity

Su

n C

are

Result: In a given formulation the substitution of Mineral oilby Cetiol® CC increases the SPF in vitro by > 100 %

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

SPF in vitro (Labsphere)

Paraffinum Liquidum

Cet

iol®

CC

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Su

n C

are

O/W Sun Lotion with Cetiol® CC SPF > 20 (est.)Rec. DE 99/095/10

Ingredients INCI w/w %

Eumulgin® VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 4.0Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin

Lanette® E Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 1.0Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 12.0Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 10.0Neo Heliopan AV Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5Neo Heliopan 303 Octocrylene 9.0Eusolex T 2000 Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone 5.0Veegum Ultra Magnesium Aluminium Silicate 1.5Keltrol T Xanthan Gum 0.5

Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 3.0Hydagen® B Bisabolol 0.5Water Aqua 46.0Perfume, Preservative q.s.

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W/O Sun Blocker with Cetiol® CC SPF 30 (est.) Rec. DE 99/095/14

Su

n C

are

Ingredients INCI w/w %

Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.0Lameform® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 2.0

Beeswax 3.0Zinc Stearate 1.0

Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 11.0Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 10.0Eusolex T 2000 Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone 15.0

Isostearic Acid 1.0Copherol® F 1300 Tocopherol 2.0

Glycerin 86 % Glycerin 5.0Water Aqua 44.5MgSO4·7 H2O Magnesium Sulfate 1.0

Hydagen® B Bisabolol 0.5Perfume, Preservative q.s.

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De

od

ora

nts

/ A

Ps

Can be used forSprayable Antiperspirant PIT formulae

Transparent Antiperspirant Gels

Antiperspirant Cremes & Roll on

Suspensions Antiperspirant Sticks

Performance in stick formulations:Gives a special dry, powdery & silky skin feeling

Reduces white residues

ADVANTAGES:

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De

od

ora

nts

/ A

Ps

Evaluation of AP/Deo Sticks with Cetiol® CC Rec. DE 99/250/30

Evaluation:

Dicaprylyl Carbonate 65

Hydroxystearic Acid 10 Market formula

Rezal 36 GP 25

Hardness ++ ++Gloss (Stick surface) yes noSensorial feeling excellent goodWhite residue (in vitro) no littleWhite residue (in vivo) less yes

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De

od

ora

nts

/ A

Ps

Suspension stick with Cetiol® CC - white residues on sheets

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Sk

in C

lean

sin

g

METHOD:Development of benchmark formula which is similar interms of ingredients & percentage to standard market formulations

Substitution of emollient in this formula to evaluate their cleansing properties

Product quantity: 1.0 g Milk

Defined application

Evaluation in comparison to benchmark

ADVANTAGES:Improvement of cleansing abilities of make-up remover

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Sk

in C

lean

sin

g

Benchmark formula for Skin Cleansing Test

Ingredients INCI w/w %

Emulgade® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 6.0(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) CetearylAlcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate

Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5Mineraloil Paraffinum Liquidum 7.5IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 7.5

Water Aqua 78.5Perfume, Preservative q.s.

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Sk

in C

lean

sin

g

Reference Formula for Skin Cleansing Test

Ingredients INCI w/w %

Emulgade® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 6.0(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) CetearylAlcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate

Lanette® O Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5Mineral Oil Paraffinum Liquidum 6.0IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 6.0Emollient 3.0

Water Aqua 78.5Perfume, Preservative q.s.

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Sk

in C

lean

sin

g

METHOD:Lipstick

Foundation

Mascara

Rest time:10 minutes

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Sk

in C

lean

sin

g

Cegesoft® C24

Cetiol® LC

Myritol® PC

Benchmark

Cyclomethicone

Cetiol® A

Make-up remover efficacy

reduced improved

Cetiol® CC

Cetiol® OE

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BACK-UP CHARTS

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Dry, volatile silicon oil like skin feel

O/W - Rec. 99/239/6 (with Cetiol® CC) vs. Rec. 99/239/4 (with Cyclomethicone = 0-Line); n = 10 human volunteers, pair comparison test

Pick-up

Consistency

Peaking

Cushion

Distribution

Absorption I

Absorption II

Smoothness

Tackiness

Oiliness

Waxiness

Powdery

good

high

high

much

easy

fast

fast

high

little

little

little

much

less good

low

little

little

difficult

slow

slow

little

much

much

much

little

2101 2Sk

in C

are

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De

od

ora

nts

/ A

Ps

Sprayable Antiperspirant with Cetiol® CC Rec. DE 99/237/1

Ingredients INCI w/w %

Emulgade® SE-PF Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 4.1(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) CetearylAlcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate

Eumulgin® B 2 Ceteareth-20 0.9Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 5.0Cetiol® LC Coco-Caprylate / Caprate 5.0Water Aqua 30.0

Locron L 50 % Aluminum Chlorohydrate 40.0Water Aqua 15.0Perfume, Preservative q.s.