01 St Lucia F/C 31/3/06 11:22 am Page 1 St...

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in association with St Lucia Simply beautiful

Transcript of 01 St Lucia F/C 31/3/06 11:22 am Page 1 St...

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in association with

St LuciaSimply beautiful

01 St Lucia F/C 31/3/06 11:22 am Page 1

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23_Stlucia 24/7/06 12:28 pm Page 1

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Welcome

Dear readerWe invite you to explore Simply

Beautiful St Lucia throughout the

pages of this supplement that we have

put together with The Wisden Cricketer.

We seek to provide the answers to your

questions on St Lucia, and then a bit

more. We want to share with you all

the things that you can look forward to

when you visit us – beauty, history, culture, cuisine, attractions,

special activities and our warm friendly people.

Of course not to be missed is cricket. St Lucia is proud of its

superb modern facilities, which we are continuously improving.

Stadium capacity at the Beausejour Cricket Ground will be

increased to meet the demands of 2007, and recently we installed

floodlights and had the historic experience of hosting our first

day/night match.

There is so much to see and do in St Lucia. The Pitons, in

Soufriere, have been designated a World Heritage site and are

not to be missed. There are rainforests, heritage tours, and all of

the usual outdoor sporting activities, including water sports

and golf.

This year, through our Sustainable Tourism Development

Programme, we will highlight the unique natural and cultural

assets of various communities throughout the island. We are

working on product improvements in these selected

communities and many stimulating special events and activities

will be on offer. So I encourage you to also partake in these

unique community-based activities.

We hope we can entice you to visit St Lucia – a warm St Lucia

welcome awaits you. We promise to make your stay enjoyable

with superb cricket, exquisite cuisine, breathtaking natural

attractions, and unique community activities.

I look forward to seeing you in Simply Beautiful St Lucia.

Hon. Philip J. PierreMinister for Commerce, Tourism, Investment and Consumer AffairsST

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03 Pierre Message 31/3/06 11:22 am Page 3

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What’s inside...

Editor John SternSupplement Editor Daniel BrighamDesign ’OME DESIGNIllustrations Jilly SitfordPublisher Maddy BallantyneBusiness Development andAdvertising Sales ManagerColin Ackehurst

The magazineThe Wisden Cricketer is publishedmonthly by Wisden Cricketer PublishingLtd, part of The Wisden Group and isavailable at major newsagents.

Where to find usThe Wisden Cricketer, 1.4 Charecroft Way,London, W14 0EHtel 020 7471 6900 fax 020 7471 6901email [email protected]

SubscriptionsThe Wisden Cricketer, Customer InterfaceLtd Cary Court, Bancombe Trading Estate,Somerton, Somerset TA11 6TBTel 0870 220 6538email [email protected] online atwww.thewisdencricketer.com, part ofwww.cricinfo.com, the world’s leadingcricket website.

Copyright©Wisden Cricketer Publishing Ltd.“Wisden”is a registered trademark ofJohn Wisden & Co Ltd. All rights reserved.No part of this publication may bereproduced, stored in a retrieval systemor transmitted in any form or by anymeans, electronic, mechanical,photocopied, recorded or otherwise,without prior permission.

Cover photograph courtesy of St Lucia Tourist Board

4 The Barmy Army has landedIt’s far from just the cricket that England fans will get toenjoy in St Lucia

6 All mapped outFind out where everything is + calendar of events

8 Memories are made of thisWith so many attractions to choose from, we give you ahelping hand picking the best

14 St Lucia JazzTime to get your dancing shoes on! The world-renownedJazz festival previewed

17 In the jungleWhether walking or biking, exploring the island’s rainforestis a magical experience

18 Where to eat, where to stayThe most tempting restaurants, the best hotels and villas

20 Amateur statusCricket tours to St Lucia are rising in popularity. NigelAbbott of Claygate CC recounts his experience + Chris Readon what England should expect at the World Cup

22 Past perspectiveThe island’s history and historical attractions

24 Number crunchingAll of the phone numbers you’ll need for your stay + WorldCup schedule

27 WIN a week in St Lucia

www.stlucia.orgTel: 0870 900 7697Fax: 020 7341 7001Email: [email protected]

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4

Going cricket barmy

S/

OO

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--

Do they know what

they’ve let

themselves in for?

This peaceful, serene island,

accustomed to tourists looking

for a bit of adventure or dancing

in the streets, now welcomes the

Barmy Army for the World Cup

in March 2007. And they’re doing

it with open arms. Mention

cricket to anyone on the island

and as soon as they realise you’re

English they talk about little else.

St Lucians are knowledgeable

about the sport, so make sure you

swat up on your history and facts

and figures before arriving;

having an opinion on Brian Lara

is also a must.

No matter how England

perform on the pitch, the fans

are guaranteed a never-to-be-

forgotten experience. Whether

it’s partying in the stands or

joining in the carnival

atmosphere on the streets of

St Lucia is gearing up for a non-stop carnival at the World Cup,but the cricket’s far from the only thing to celebrate

Going cricket barmy

Runs in the sun: England fanswill want to see Andrew Strausson top form in St Lucia leftwhile West Indians won’t wantto rely on just Brian Lara above

04-05 Cricket Barmy 30/3/06 6:20 pm Page 4

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5for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia

GET

TY,

MAT

THEW

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MO

RGA

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AY, S

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“Fans will takeaway a lotmore than justgood cricket ”

Gros Islet, there will be a real

sense that the Caribbean is the

natural home of the World Cup.

Not only that, but fans will take

away a lot more than just good

cricket; there is just so much

more to do.

You’ll take back cherished

memories of some of the

Caribbean’s finest restaurants,

serving everything from Creole

to Indian to Italian; nights out in

the vibrant bars of Castries and

Rodney Bay – the island’s

hubbub of drinking, dancing and

eating; romantic walks through

St Lucia’s 19,000 acres of

rainforest; stunning views from

the epic twin peaks of the Pitons;

relaxing stays in five-star hotels

and villas nestled into valleys

and hills; snorkelling at one of St

Lucia’s many award-winning dive

sites; sunning yourself on

secluded golden beaches. You’d

almost be forgiven for forgetting

the cricket was on.❁

Size27 miles long, 14 miles wide

LanguageEnglish is official. Many StLucians also speak FrenchCreole

ClimateSub-tropical, with tempsaveraging around 27-30°.Sporadic tropical showersJune-November.

CurrencyEC Dollars (£1 = EC$4.62) andUS Dollars (£1 = US$1.73)accepted on island

Time difference4 hours behind GMT

Getting aroundCars and 4-wheelers can behired on the island; taxis areeasily available – bargainingis recommended

ImmunizationNot necessary, althoughHepatitis A, Polio andTyphoid are recommended

Credit cardsMajor credit cards acceptedat most restaurants, hotelsand major shops

Departure tax EC$54 or US$22 for allpassengers over 12 years

St Lucia in a nutshell

Sixes in the sunThe Beausejour Cricket Ground, venue forEngland’s group matches, is simply one of themost picturesque places to watch cricket in theworld. By Daniel Brigham

A bottle of ice-cool Piton beer in both hands, St Luciaflag draped over my head to keep out the 30° heat,my feet all danced-out and Chris Gayle hammeringsixes into the crowd. This certainly isn’t Lord’s.

The party stand at the Beausejour stadiumexemplifies the atmosphere at the ground: carefreeand all about the fun. Located close to the touristhaven of Rodney Bay, Beausejour is set against astunning backdrop of green hillside. After stagingits first international match in 2002, Beausejour has

rightly acquired the reputation as setting thestandard for the rest of the grounds in the WestIndies. Currently holding 12,000 fans, temporaryseating will be brought in for the World Cup,increasing the capacity to 21,000. The outfield is aslush as the surrounding countryside, and a seabreeze and plenty of shade stop the spectators frommelting. If you can think of a better place to watchFreddie Flintoff and Kevin Pietersen launching a six-assault, let me know, for I have yet to find it.

04-05 Cricket Barmy 30/3/06 6:20 pm Page 5

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Map & Calendar of Events

Cal

enda

r of

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May

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St

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ST LUCIATOURSITBOARD

06-07 Map + Calendar 31/3/06 2:19 pm Page 6

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7for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia

Airp

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06-07 Map + Calendar 31/3/06 2:19 pm Page 7

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10 things to see and do

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St Lucia: 238 square miles of rainforest, vibrant nightspots, mouthwatering cuisine and endless beaches. Where do you start when confronted by paradise? Daniel Brigham picks 10 things you must see and do before you leave.

Seven days in the sun

08-13 10 Things To Do 30/3/06 6:12 pm Page 8

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99for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia

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1. Beaches

Let’s face it, if the Caribbean is your chosen

holiday destination, it’s quite likely you’ll be

looking to spend a decent amount of time on

the beach. And why not? St Lucia’s beaches are

all open to the public, many are secluded and

others are hives of activity, and it’s the perfect

way to kick off your stay. From Marigot Bay to

Pigeon Island and Cas-en-Bas to Rodney Bay,

you’re never far from the chance to indulge

in a spot of sunbathing, paddling or, for the

more adventurous, snorkelling, diving or

horse riding.

2. Cuisine

You won’t stay hungry in St Lucia. There’s just

no excuse. Countless quality restaurants serve

everything from local Creole to pizzas,

burgers, steaks, French and Italian, with much

of the food made from local produce. Embrace

the island: try staying away from the burgers

and pizzas that you can find on every corner

of any British town and gorge yourself on

Creole. Based on recipes using corn, cayenne

pepper, tomatoes, beans, okra, sweet potatoes

and squashes, most restaurants offer this

traditional cuisine. Although chicken and fish

are the predominant meats on the island, the

pork trade is rising, with pork barbecues

popping up on the sides of roads. For our top

restaurant picks, see pages 18-19.

3. Pigeon Island

It’s two in the afternoon, there are a couple of

clouds dotted around but not enough to block

the soothing sun, the surrounding beaches are

begging to be walked along and yet I can see

only two other people. Pigeon Island, just north

of the town of Gros Islet, is St Lucia’s best-kept

secret. Featuring an enticing blend of history,

relaxation, peace, empty beaches and

snorkelling, it is difficult to understand why

Pigeon Island isn’t flooded with tourists.

Thankfully, it remains relatively secluded –

perfect for a snooze or getting through The DaVinci Code. Barracks and forts used by the

British in the 1700s to defend the island against

the French are well preserved, and the beaches

are free of deckchairs and throngs of

sunbathers. If you and your partner are feeling

Island fusion: St Lucia’s two foremostattractions are its glorious beaches aboveand an impressive variety of quality foodbelow served at world-class restaurants

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spontaneous, sunset weddings at the fort are

fantastically romantic. But, if the husband

would rather act like a typical bloke, there’s a

golf course just 10 minutes drive away ...

4. St Lucia Golf Resortand Country Club

The Caribbean is almost as famous for its

beautiful golf courses as its beaches, and St

Lucia Golf Resort and Country Club fits

perfectly into the stereotype: lush fairways,

perfect weather, stunning views and the

occasional sighting of rare wildlife. Situated on

the coast just north of Rodney Bay, the 18-hole

championship course is perfect for both

serious golfers and those who spend a lot of

time admiring the bunkers; a driving range

and golf lessons will help remove any

rustiness. The restaurant and bar (open to non-

members) will help you forget about the triple

bogeys. It often attracts big names, from Bill

Clinton to Tony Greig and Kenny G. After

hosting a successful Viv Richards Golf Day in

2005, they are already planning an open-day

for the England cricketers just before the

World Cup. It may be the only chance to see

Michael Vaughan hit a straight one. If golf isn’t

your game, then cricket tours are growing on

the island – see pages 20-21.

So, after a day of relaxation, how about a

spot of climbing tomorrow ...

5. The Pitons

Halfway up a bloody big mountain, legs redder

than Angus Fraser after seven overs on the trot,

face submerged in sweat, it’s a case of “Thank

God the view is so damn incredible.” Maybe I’ll

just stay here. After all, is there any real need to

get right to the top? The compulsory guides get

this kind of attitude a lot, and they’re well

aware that it really is worth it. In an island

stocked-up with heart-stopping views, this one

tops them all; the Brian Lara of panoramas.

Gros Piton and Petit Piton (I’m climbing the

big one) are part of the UNESCO World

Heritage Site, which also includes the Sulphur

Springs (see below), and the never-ending

expanse of rainforest that surrounds the town

of Soufriere in the south of the island.

“The view fromthe Pitons topsall others; theBrian Laraof panoramas”

Swing time: after 18 rounds at the StLucia Golf Resort above, why not cool offunder one of the island’s waterfalls left, orif you’re after adventure, how aboutclimbing the Pitons above right or a spotof jungle biking? right

08-13 10 Things To Do 30/3/06 6:13 pm Page 10

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The twin peaks are St Lucia’s defining image –

an epic gateway to the island. The trek to the

top takes around two hours, the mosquitos are

out in force, it does get steep and a certain

degree of fitness is needed, but it is massively

rewarding. It has to be done. Long-sleeved

shirts or T-shirts are advisable, as well as a

decent-sized bottle of water. Most importantly,

though, pack a camera.

6. Sulphur Springs

The descent from the Pitons takes another two

hours, and there is no better way to recuperate

than heading for the nearby Sulphur Springs,

situated in the heart of the Caribbean’s only

drive-in volcano. The hot springs belch out

steam – too hot for having a dip – but you can

for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia

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10 things to see and do

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bathe in the mineral-enriched, warm river.

Bones no longer ache, bites no longer itch.

Then, if that wasn’t enough, Toraille waterfall

and the Diamond Botanical Gardens and

Waterfall are within touching distance (see

page 17). Of course, for those action men and

women who think that spending an afternoon

bathing is for wimps, you can indulge in a spot

of jungle biking just up the coast at Anse

Chastanet. It’s a superb way to take in the local

plantations, French colonial ruins, orchids and

forests. Trying to bike up the Pitons, however,

is not advised.

7. Gros Islet Street Partyand Fish Fridayat Anse La Raye

Everywhere I turn, there is fish. The most

delicious looking fish you’ll ever see. My nose is

in heaven, my stomach crying out to be fed.

The streets of fishing village Anse La Raye,

normally quiet and spacious during the day,

have transformed into a montage of barbecues,

grills, benches, bands, bars and DJs. Hundreds

of people – locals and tourists – are dancing,

eating and looking pretty damned satisfied.

08-13 10 Things To Do 30/3/06 6:13 pm Page 12

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13for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia

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Fish Friday is one of the highlights of any stay

on the island; of all of the things I bored my

friends in England about on my return, this

one comes top of the list. Lobsters, shrimp,

lambi, whelks and much more all simmer in

the warm sea breeze, creating such an enticing,

tangy smell that I’m surprised you don’t see

people drooling. Leaving these delights behind,

I head to the Gros Islet Street Party – the

epicentre of party-time on a Friday night. Only

a small village 20 years ago, Gros Islet has

grown enormously on the back of its carnival

reputation, which goes on to the early hours of

Saturday morning. Open-air music, barbecued

fish and chicken and a whole lotta dancing is

what Gros Islet does best. Like Anse La Raye, the

aroma is thoroughly enticing and can stay with

you for days, a perfect reminder of a perfect

Friday night in St Lucia. Be prepared to test

your stamina (and your appetite for alcohol), as

it will be needed to last the distance, and a day

on the beach is probably the best way to

recuperate.

8. Marigot Bay

If you like to sail, then Marigot Bay is the place

to head for on the island. Or, if you just like

beaches shaded by coconut palms, fabulous

restaurants (see pages 18-19) and views that

make you forget to carry on walking, then

Marigot Bay is also the place for you. The

harbour is teeming with yachts and, with a

new hotel opening in the summer that

promises to offer unparalled accommodation

(see page 18-19), there are few better places

to set up anchor. The location inspired the

filmmakers of the original Dr Doolittle (1947)

to set much of the film there. The giant

pink snail that Doolittle sails away on at the

end of the film was left by the crew and was

a permanent reminder of the film, until it

went missing, never to be found again. No

one knows just how a giant pink snail goes

missing overnight, but the locals love telling

the story.

9. Diving atAnse Cochon

Just south of Marigot bay is the island’s

foremost dive site, Anse Cochon. St Lucia is a

haven for divers, with recommended sites into

double figures. What sets Anse Cochon apart is

the chance to explore St Lucia’s only sunken

wreck – a 165-foot freighter, conveniently sunk

by the Department of Fisheries in 1986 to

create an artificial reef. The local, secluded Ti

Kaye Village overlooks the site, and is a great

place to stay if you’re after a week of diving

(see page 18-19). There is also a dive shop and

quiet beach with a restaurant and bar, which

provides, as in my case, a great place to watch

the dives from a nice, safe, dry distance. There

is also the chance to see the island’s version of

the Loch Ness Monster. Called The Thing.

Apparently it is often sighted at night. You

may spot it, but all you’ll remember in the

morning is the taste of rum and coke and

Piton beer.

10. St Lucia Jazz

World-renowned artists, events throughout the

island, top-quality rum, a tempting variety of

food and dancing until your feet hurt, St Lucia

Jazz is one of the world’s top festivals. It

happens every May and draws in crowds from

all over the world. If you love a good time,

don’t miss it. For more on this unique event,

see pages 14-15.❁

“St Lucia is aperfect haven fordivers”

Good times guaranteed: eating al fresco at AnseLa Raye top left, magical Marigot Bay left,exploring the deep blue sea right and party timeat St Lucia Jazz below

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St Lucia Jazz

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What is it?Does what it says on the tin. If you’re

thinking Glastonbury, you’re way off. There

are no growling rock acts and no hippies

swigging cider in the mud. Instead, it’s a

world-renowned 10-day celebration of all

things jazzy, with big headline acts from the

world of jazz and rhythm and blues playing

in venues throughout the island. Get ready

to dance, dance, dance.

When is it?May 5 to 14. Seal headlines and legend Al

Green performs.

Why should I go?George Wein, festival promoter

extraordinaire, ranks St Lucia Jazz in the top

three festivals in the world. The winning

combination of sun, music, food, rum and

partying into the small hours attracts

thousands of visitors from the Caribbean,

America and Europe every year. Many of

them return, and it’s easy to understand

why. The island, already famous for its

carnival atmosphere, is a real hubbub of

good feeling and high spirits for the 10 days.

Who’s played?Herbie Hancock, James Carter, Spyro Gyra,

Boo Hinkson, Wynton Marsalis, Al Jarreau,

Chick Correa, Cassandra Wilson, Lauryn Hill,

Ashanti, Courtney Pine, Shaggy, Kenny G, En

Vogue, Luther Vandross.

St Lucia

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“It’s impossibleto not get sweptaway by StLucia Jazz”

Nobel Laureate Week How about this for a fact: per capita, StLucia has more Nobel laureates than anyother country. Derek Walcott above wonthe Literature prize in 1992, while ArthurLewis won for Economics in 1979. Theislanders are enormously proud of thisachievement and a week is set aside everyJanuary to celebrate all things cultural.Kicking off on January 23 – the birth dateof both Walcott and Lewis – thecelebration consists of two major lectures,panel discussions, plays, poetry, dramaand music. School children are alsoheavily involved. The week attracts visitorsfrom all over the Caribbean, and oftenentices luminaries from the world ofliterature, including poet Seamus Heaneyand the late, great playwright ArthurMiller. If you’re after a bit of culture in theCaribbean, make sure you head for StLucia in January.

What if I don’t like Jazz?Don’t worry – the image of jazz in the

Caribbean is far removed from stuffy English

jazz clubs where everyone says ‘Nice’. Like

most festivals, the ambience and the

atmosphere counts for more than the music;

when everyone around you is having a great

time, it’s impossible to not get swept up by it.

What should I wear?Orange. With a bit of yellow and green. Make

it as bright as you can. Keep it cool.

Alternatively, flowing white cottons and

linens. No greys. Sunscreen is a must, and

straw hats are very popular.

JazzAre there any other festivalson St Lucia?There isn’t a month that goes by without a

celebration of something, and the only way St

Lucians know to celebrate is with dancing

and music. Carnival, which runs for two days

in July, is a celebration of the island’s culture,

blending theatre, music, dance and drama.

Creole Heritage Month in October is a

celebration of all things St Lucian, with story-

telling, eating and a spot of folk music.❁

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Terms and Conditions Apply. Packages vary by hotel – see website for details.

All-inclusive price includes:

• Beautiful beach locations

• All meals and selected drinks

• Daily activities programme

• Regular entertainment

• Kid’s Club

• Windsurfing and Sailing

• Snorkeling

• Tennis

Room only holidays also available

Whether your customers are looking for a fun filled family break, a relaxing

romantic retreat or even a dream wedding or honeymoon, a rex resorts

holiday on the unique island of St Lucia is the perfect solution.

Choose from the Royal, Papillon or the St LucianWith three stunning rex resorts on the island your customers will be spoilt for choice; they can

enjoy the luxury and sophistication of the Royal; or the well established and relaxing St Lucian;

or for thrill seekers, the Papillon is the place to stay where numerous water sports and activities

are on offer.

For Trade support and bookings call

020 8741 5333 or visit www.rexresorts.com

Affordable St Lucia

Plus resorts in: Antigua • Grenada • St Lucia • Tobago • Barbados

Papillon, St Lucia

23_Stlucia 24/7/06 12:27 pm Page 1

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Cultural Heritage Tours

Kicking off with a

spot of urban

culture, the Castries

Heritage Walk

brings the island’s

sense of colonial

history to life. Guides

really know their

stuff, and it’s no

surprise they appear

to be brimming with enthusiasm – the blend

of English, French, African and Caribbean

architecture is enough to get the oldest cynic

relishing the sights ... If you fancy learning

about the old customs of St Lucian cuisine in

a picturesque setting, then Fond Latisab

Creole Park in Babonneau is a real must. A

local community delight in showing you

cooking on macambou leaves, how not to

get stung when collecting honey, fishing

for Crayfish and the process of making

cassava bread. It’s undeniably bohemian and

wonderful fun ... Pigeon Island National

Landmark, at different times home to pirates

and the British military, is one of the

highlights of St Lucia. See page 9.

Botanical Gardens

Tranquillity, shaded trails, lush vegetation

and acres of rare flora of all colours of the

rainbow: visiting one of St Lucia’s three

botanical gardens is like stepping into a

Monet landscape, with the added bonus of

the sounds of birds and a breeze. The

Diamond Botanical Gardens is nestled under

the imperious Pitons and you’ll have the

chance to watch the world go by in the

therapeutic, mineral-rich baths, once used by

France’s King Louis XVI ... A feeling of finding

yourself in a private world is what

is so special about Mamiku

Gardens. From the dense trees

to the enchanting views of

the ocean, this

beautiful habitat

found off Veux Fort

highway is a real get-

away-from-it-all

attraction ... Perfect

if you’re heading north is a

visit to Tropica Gardens,

combining banana fields, great

views of Castries and a wooden

craft studio.

Plantation Tours

With buildings dating back to the sugar age

and remains of Amerindian settlements,

Fond d’Or Nature Historic Park is great for

history buffs and those who love a decent

hike. Waiting for you is a gorgeous white

sandy beach where you often find the

magnificent sight of leatherback turtles ...

Treat your taste buds with a fruit-tasting

session at Fond Doux Estate, a working

plantation. If that leaves you hungry, there’s

no need to worry: a sumptuous Creole lunch

is provided in the plantation house ... Morne

Coubaril Estate has a museum, botanical

garden and restaurant among the authentic

workers’ village and sugar mill.❁

Jungle boogieTwenty-nine miles of cool, enchanting trails run through St Lucia’s sprawling rainforest. Eachmile offers something new, something fresh; a melee of brilliant colours painted by rare plantsand birds, trees teasingly circled by climbing plants that provide perches for the hummingbirds.Although most trails are quite strenuous, the Barre De L’isle Trail takes only two hours.Bridging east and west St Lucia, the trail has lookout points that reveal everything that isnaturally beautiful about St Lucia ... For a paralysing view of Mt Gimie, St Lucia’s highest peak,head for the Edmund Forest Reserve. The trek through lush forest packed with mushrooms,orchids and a variety of plants takes a little under four hours ... At the foot of Mt Gimie is EnbasSaut, the highlight being the two glorious waterfalls found at the head of the Troumassee river... If you’re after real seclusion, Des Cartiers Rainforest is the hardest to get to but just asrewarding, with St Lucia’s wildlife apparently on a mission to show off to tourists.

With an abundance of natural beauty, it is no surprise that St Lucia is home to somany stunning heritage sites. James Burgess picks out the top attractions

Heritage tours

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Hotels and Restaurants

SouthLadera Resort (www.ladera-stlucia.com)

What’s so special? You’re submerged in your private pool,

sipping a chilled beverage, staring out across

the rainforest and watching the sun set

behind the Pitons. It doesn’t get much better

than this. The Ladera recently became the

first Caribbean hotel to win the “Best of the

Best” award at the prestigious US Condé Nast

Traveler awards. It’s difficult to disagree. Each

of the six villas and 18 suites are minus a

west-facing wall to really expose the full

magnitude of the towering Pitons. Ladera’s

restaurant, Dasheene, has a deserved

reputation as one of the best on the island.

Good board as well: it covers breakfast, a

shuttle service to nearby beaches and

snorkelling equipment.

Who’s it for? Couples. Children are a fairly rare sight.

Stonefield Estate (www.stonefieldvillas.com)

What’s so special? A more modest, great-value version of Ladera.

Each of the 16 individual villas has a plunge

pool, hammock and outdoor shower (don’t

worry – only the birds and insects will be

able to get a view you). The surroundings are

stunning, with views of Petit Piton and the

calm, emerald sea. The owners, the Brown

family, are always on hand and it really lends

the complex a personal and family feel. The

restaurant and bar are of excellent quality

and there is a free shuttle service to the near-

by beach.

Who’s it for? Couples, family.

Other quality hotels to check out:

Anse Chastanet(www.ansechastanet.com) Jalousie Hilton Resort and Spa(www.jalousie-hilton.com)

West CoastTi Kaye Village Resort (www.tikaye.com)

What’s so special? Situated in Anse Cochon, one of St Lucia’s

finest beaches and top diving locations, Ti

Kaye feels like something of a secret. It’s

found down the bottom of a beaten-track,

immediately lending it an authentic rustic

atmosphere. The 16-acre site is clearly well-

loved, and the guests feel that way too, with

staff maximising their special power to

remember everyone’s first names. The beach

bar is a popular destination for residents,

and there are water taxis to Castries, Rodney

Bay and Soufriere.

Who’s it for? Couples, divers.

Discovery at Marigot Bay(www.discoverystlucia.com)

What’s so special? Opening in summer 2006, Discovery is

shaping up to be St Lucia’s most stylish hotel

in one of the island’s most stunning

locations. The 124 rooms and villas offer

great views of the bay, as well as flatscreen

TVs, DVD player, internet access and enough

space to hide the giant pink snail from Dr

Doolittle that went missing from the Bay

several years ago. Treehouse weddings, lapli

spa, luxury pool with a children’s area, bars

and restaurants – it ticks all of the boxes.

Apparently, the French breakfast will be

flown fresh from Paris every morning.

Who’s it for? Anyone and everyone.

After a long day spent exploring rainforests or sprawled out on the beach, you’ll wantto top it off with a five-star meal and then retire to your comfortable, stylish room.Richard Ledger experienced both of these in abundance during his two-week stay

Staying in, eating out

Perfectly accommodating: St Lucia’s hotelsoffer a tantalising mix of beaches, fine diningand excellent accommodation

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19for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia

NorthAlmond Morgan Bay(www.almondresorts.com)

What’s so special? How does watching the sun set over the

ocean from your balcony sound to you? Or

going to sleep to the sound of the sea lapping

up to the beach? The 238-room hotel three

miles outside Castries opened in November

2005 and already offers some of the best all-

inclusive accommodation on the island. Four

pools (three for the kids’), four restaurants

and bars, a spa, a kids club, access to beaches

and a large range of watersports … yep,

everything accounted for.

Who’s it for? Anyone and everyone.

Windjammer Landing(www.windjammer-landing.com)

What’s so special? This 60-acre site offers something a little bit

different to anything else on St Lucia. Built as

a village, quaint brick paths wander through

waterfalls, pools and gardens, eventually

opening out at a secluded, 1,000-foot long

beach. Five restaurants, floodlit tennis

courts, two swimming pools and two kids’

pools and a children and teen centre means

you’ll never be bored – and that’s just when

staying within the village.

Who’s it for? Families, couples.

For those on a tighter budget, the Village Inn

& Spa below is situated in the heart of

Rodney Bay and provides for all of your

holiday needs. (www.villageinnandspa.com)

Other quality hotels to check out:

Royal St Lucian, Reduit Beach(www.rexresorts.com)Bay Gardens Hotel, Rodney Bay(www.baygardenshotel.com)Coco Kreole, Rodney Bay(www.coco-resorts.com)Sandals Grande, Pigeon Island(www.sandals.com)

The Coal Pot, Vigie MarinaAsk anyone for their top restaurant in St

Lucia, and the majority will mention this

elegant, vibrant eatery in Castries. New

World cuisine married with a stone and

wood open air design and the water from

the marina just a few feet away create an

ambient dining experience at both lunch

and dinner.

The Lime, Rodney BayLike many restaurants in Rodney Bay, the

Lime’s food is reasonably priced and

varied. From fresh seafood to pork and

steaks, service is quick and often

accompanied by live music.

Rainforest Hideaway, Marigot BaySurrounded by lush greenery and with a

stunning view of the bay, the Rainforest

Hideaway is one of St Lucia’s most

intimate restaurants. The menu is a fusion

of Caribbean, Asian and Oriental and the

food can be washed down with a little

help from the Champagne bar.

Reservations recommended.

Ti Bananne, Rodney BayIf you’re after fine French Caribbean

dining at good rates, Rodney Bay’s

spacious Ti Bananne (small banana) is

ideal. With alfresco dining by the Coco

Palm swimming pool, it is best

appreciated at lunch.

The Great House Restaurant, Cap EstatePerfect for large parties, the Great House

Restaurant combines international and

Caribbean cuisine to startlingly good

effect. If you’ve had a hard day swinging a

golf club at the near-by course, there’s no

better place to recuperate.

Dining in style

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Caribbean Tour Diary

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Claygate CC is a small village club who play in the Surrey

Downs league. They’ve been undertaking international tours

for the last 10 years and have toured Sri Lanka, Barbados,

Goa, South Africa and Trinidad and Tobago. In 2006 they decided to

return to the Caribbean and chose St Lucia because of the knowledge of

the Barmy Army’s Suranjan Cooray, a long-time member of Claygate,

who was already aware of the cricketing and general attractions of the

island. Cooray also has plans to take several thousand Barmies there for

the World Cup. Cooray liaised with the St Lucian Cricket Association

and set up a two-week, seven-game tour in February 2006.

Friday Feb 10th 2006A party of 45 players including wives, children and mothers-in-law

arrive at Gatwick. The player’s cricketing skills are already honed to

perfection after several anticipatory months in the nets. This may or

may not be true. On arrival in St Lucia they head for the Bay Gardens

Hotel, Rodney Bay.

Saturday Feb 11thNet practice at the Beausejour stadium. What a privilege to be able to

practise on this terrific new ground. We feel good about the side,

which is a broad

mixture of ages and

abilities. A touch jet-

lagged though …

Sunday Feb 12thOur first game, against Soufriere. Unseasonal heavy rain waterlogs

the pitch and it’s called off at 9am. Frustrating for some, but good for

a couple of the youngsters who have just discovered the effects of

large amounts of rum. It may not be for the last time.

Tuesday Feb 14thOur first game at Mindoo Phillip Park (below left) – the main venue

pre-Beausejour, located in Castries. It’s soon obvious that for Claygate,

the locals read ‘England’. The opposition turns out with a couple of

St Lucian and Windward Island players! They score 200-plus … we’re a

hundred short.

Wednesday Feb 15thSecond game against the Police All-stars, including the deputy

commissioner. Best behaviour, then, and hide the duty free. We start

to rue the shortage of one or two key players. Why did they decide

not to come? They score 200-plus … we’re a hundred short.

Friday Feb 17thGame at Soufriere. A stunning ground under the shadow of the world

famous Pitons. There probably isn’t a more picturesque ground in the

Caribbean, but the temperatures reach well into the 90s and there

were no facilities or shade. Even for all the rum and cokes in the

world we wouldn’t reveal the Claygate score!

Caribbeantour diaryTouring teams from England areheading to St Lucia in increasingnumbers. Nigel Abbott of Surrey sideClaygate tells their story

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Saturday Feb 18thSecond game at Soufriere. We bat first to see if we can change the

run of form. Gap-year student Jamie Henderson knocks a useful 76

and we post a respectable 159. They get them for five. How do they

hit the ball so hard?

Monday Feb 20thBoat trip to see some of the major sites of the island. The volcano, the

Pitons and some of St Lucia’s fantastic bays and beaches. A really

memorable day … at least until the rum takes hold! There appears to

be a theme here …

Tuesday Feb 21stMon Repos. Rain and a mini marathon in the morning means the

game starts a few hours late and we agree 30 overs. It doesn’t make

any difference. They score just fewer than 200 ... we’re a hundred

short. Great interaction with the locals. Post-match atmosphere is

very special. Our coach always travels with copious supplies of Piton

beer! That’s why the locals remember us and turn out in force to

play us!

Wednesday Feb 22ndLast game at Mindoo Phillip Park immediately after Independence

Day celebrations. The highlight is 17-year-old Joel Watkins taking 5

for 38, his first ever ‘fifer’. What a place to do it and Joel is man of

the match! They score 200 plus … we’re a hundred short.

Thursday Feb 23rdThe cricketing highlight. We play a representative junior side and

have the pleasure of playing on St Lucia’s pride and joy, Beausejour.

Twenty-five Claygate supporters fill the stadium with enthusiastic

support! Closest game

of the tour. They

score 190. We’re 20

short with nine

down. A great game

and a real occasion.

Friday Feb 24th

Claygate secretary Rufus

Legg reflects: “Each game presented a variety of challenges – none of

which we were quite up to, but in overall terms we had a terrific time

on a fantastic island.”❁

Reading the conditionsEngland wicketkeeper Chris Read, who played in bothof England’s only appearances at Beausejour in 2004,gives his verdict on the stadium

The views are pretty incredible, it’s not far from the beach sothere’s a great view of the hills and forests. It’s a very beautiful

ground with a wonderful setting. Certainly getting out to the seafor some sailing and deep-sea fishing has to be an option whenvisiting St Lucia – it is for me and any length of stay on the islandprovides great opportunities to indulge.

It’s certainly a nice change to play in St Lucia as a lot of thegrounds in the Caribbean are in major cities. The BeausejourCricket Ground is brand new and you have to commend theauthorities for building it outside the city; it creates a wonderfulatmosphere, like the fans have gone out of their way to have aparty. Hopefully they have the infrastructure and transport linksthere to make it all work for the World Cup as the local area isliterally a 10-15 minute drive from the main track. Wheneverything is complete it will be an amazing few weeks – the fanswill fall in love with the island and the ground.

It’s a little hard to tell England’s chances at the World Cup as a lotcan happen in a year. I think it will be a pretty open contest with notmuch of a home advantage. I imagine a lot of the pitches will be flatand a lot of runs will be scored. Being just off the sea there’s a bit ofbreeze too but on such good batting wickets bowlers mightstruggle a bit.❁

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Past Times

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Peaceful beginnings

St Lucia’s natural peace was first disturbed

between 1000 and 500 BC by farmers and

fishermen from north-eastern South America.

Although little is known about this ancient

civilisation, archaeologists have uncovered

cave drawings and domestic artefacts in sites

throughout the island. While these settlers

are believed to have lived relatively peacefully,

this all changed when the Carib Indians, a

fierce warrior tribe also from South America,

marched through Southern Caribbean

islands, leaving a trail of bloodshed that led

to a rapid supremacy on St Lucia.

European intervention

The Carib Indians’ rule was eventually

disturbed by the Europeans sometime

around 1500. Just who first set foot on the

island is still debatable. Traditionally

credited to Christopher Columbus during his

Historical attractionsFond Doux EstateA working estate just outside Soufrierewith trails that lead to military ruins

Forte CharlotteFound in Morne Fortune, the fort datesback to 1764. The fortifications are wellpreserved and you can visit the barracksand cells

Morne Coubaril EstateGroup tours of this plantation restoredfor tourists. Guides are dressed in perioddress for no extra charge

Folk Research CentreDedicated to all things cultural on StLucia, with a small art gallery andlibrary. Find it in Castries

Pigeon Island (above)Rodney Fort is animposing site againstthe backdrop of aclear sea

Minor Basilicaof theImmaculateConception One of Castries’ finestbuildings, the church is a sanctuary of calm in abusy city

fourth voyage in 1502, new evidence suggests

that he may have sailed by the island.

Another theory points the finger at Juan de

la Cosa, one of Columbus’ lieutenants, in

1499 or 1504.

British failures

The first European settlers were French, led

by pirate Jambe de Bois (‘wooden leg’) in the

1550s, who used his base on Pigeon Island to

launch attacks on Spanish ships. In 1605, St

Lucia got its first taste of the British when

the ship Olive Branch was blown off course

from its intended destination of Guyana.

Although the relationship between the

Caribs and the 67 Brits started amicably,

within five weeks there were only 19

remaining, and they were forced into a

desperate escape using a canoe. Sir Thomas

Warner led 400 men to St Lucia in 1639;

within 18 months, all of them had been

killed by the Caribs.

Anglo-French relations

The rivalry between the French and the

British started in the mid-1600s, when the

French made peace with the Caribs. Jealous,

Britain laid claim in 1659; the rivalry and

fighting continued for another 150 years. The

island changed hands 14 times amid endless

battles. In 1814, Britain finally claimed the

island for itself.

Island independence

When African slaves were emancipated in

1838, they accounted for 90% of the island’s

population. Their descendents eventually saw

independence in 1979, when the British

crown severed the colonial links and it

became a member of the Commonwealth.❁

You’d never believe it to look at the island, but thehistory of St Lucia is a catalogue of bloody battles andcrumbling empires

Past Times

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Listings

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Number CrunchingAirlinesBritish Airways 0870 850 9850Virgin Atlantic 0870 190 4406BWIA 0870 499 2942

Car RentalsAvis Rent-A-Car +1 758 451 6976Budget Rent-A-Car +1 758 452 8673Cool Breeze Jeep Rentals +1 758 458 2031Courtesy Car Rentals +1 758 452 8140Guys Car Rental +1 758 451 7885Hertz/Sun-Fun Tours Ltd. +1 758 452 0680

HotelsAlmond Morgan Bay 0871 871 2828Anse Chastanet 1 800 223 1108Bay Gardens +1 758 452 8060Coco Resorts +1 758 452 0712Discovery at Marigot Bay +1 758 458 5300Jalousie Hilton Resort 0870 389 1931Ladera Resort 0887 445 34Royal by Rex Resorts 020 8741 5333Stonefield Estate +1 758 459 7037Ti Kaye Village Resort +1 758 456 8105Village Inn and Spa +1 758 458 3300Windjammer Landing 0800 316 9797

RestaurantsTi Bananne +1 758 452 0712The Coal Pot +1 758 452 5566The Great House Restaurant +1 758 450 0450The Lime +1 758 452 0761Rainforest Hideaway +1 758 451 4485

Travel AgenciesCarib Travel Agency +1 758 452 2151Solar Tours and Travel +1 758 452 5898Travel Concepts, Inc +1 758 458 2243

For more details on the hotels and restaurants listed, see page 18-19 for Nic Pierce’s account of his sleeping and eating habits during his two-week stay in St Lucia.

Travel PlansAfter a very careful selection process the following agents havebeen appointed in several countries. However, several others arepending. Continue to visit www.cricketworldcup.com for updateson the full list of approved Official Travel Agents.

Best at Travel PLC T/A Sporting JourneysTelephone: 0870 708 2001 Email: [email protected]

Gullivers Sports TravelTelephone: 01684 293175 Email: [email protected]

ITC SportsTelephone: 01244 355390 Email: [email protected]

Taj Tours and TravelTelephone: 020 8900 1986 Email: [email protected]

The Cricket Tour CoTelephone: 0149 471 3007 Email: [email protected]

The Sporting TravellerTelephone: 0173 724 4398 Email: [email protected]

Caribbean CollectionTelephone: + 353 21 463 5556Email: [email protected]

St Lucia Tourist BoardLower Ground Floor1 Collingham GardensLondon SW5 OHWTelephone: 0870 900 7697 Fax: 020 7341 7001Email [email protected] www.stlucia.org

24-25 Listings Pages 30/3/06 6:30 pm Page 24

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25for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia

ST L

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Match Schedule

Groups

Group Stage Semi Finals

Final

Second Stage – Super Eight Series

DATE GROUP A GROUP B GROUP C GROUP DST KITTS TRINIDAD & NEVIS & TOBAGO ST LUCIA JAMAICA

Tue 13 Mar WI v PAKWed 14 Mar AUS v SCO KEN v CAN Thu 15 Mar SL v BER ZIM v IREFri 16 Mar SA v NET ENG v NZ Sat 17 Mar IND v BAN PAK v IRESun 18 Mar AUS v NET ENG v CAN Mon 19 Mar IND v BER WI v ZIMTue 20 Mar SA v SCO NZ v KEN Wed 21 Mar SL v BAN ZIM v PAKThu 22 Mar SCO v NET NZ v CAN Fri 23 Mar IND v SL WI v IRESat 24 Mar AUS v SA ENG v KEN Sun 25 Mar BER v BAN

ANTIGUA & BARBUDA GRENADA GUYANA BARBADOS

Tue 27 Mar D2 v A1 Wed 28 Mar A2 v B1 Thu 29 Mar D2 v C1 Fri 30 Mar D1 v C2 Sat 31 Mar A1 v B2 Sun 01 Apr D2 v B1 Mon 02 Apr B2 v C1 Tues 03 Apr D1 v A2 Wed 04 Apr C2 v B1 Sat 07 Apr B2 v A2 Sun 08 Apr A1 v C2 Mon 09 Apr D1 v C1 Tue 10 Apr D2 v A2 Wed 11 Apr C2 v B2Thu 12 Apr B1 v C1 Fri 13 Apr A1 v D1Sat 14 Apr A2 v C1 Sun 15 Apr B2 v D1Mon 16 Apr A1 v B1 Tue 17 Apr A2 v C2Wed 18 Apr D1 v B1 Thu 19 Apr D2 v B2Fri 20 Apr A1 v C1 Sat 21 Apr D2 v C2

DATE SEMI- SEMI-FINAL 1 FINAL 2JAMAICA ST LUCIA

Tue 24 Apr 2 v 3 Wed 25 Apr 1 v 4

DATE

Sat 28 Apr BARBADOS

25for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia

ST L

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GROUP ASt Kitts & Nevis

Australia (1) South Africa (5)Scotland (12)The Netherlands (16)

GROUP BTrinidad & Tobago

Sri Lanka (2)India (8)Bangladesh (11)Bermuda (15)

GROUP CSt Lucia

New Zealand (3)England (7)Kenya (10) Canada (14)

GROUP DJamaica

Pakistan (4)West Indies (6)Zimbabwe (9)Ireland (13)

Match Schedule

Groups

Group Stage Semi-finals

Final

Second Stage – Super Eight Series

DATE GROUP A GROUP B GROUP C GROUP DST KITTS TRINIDAD & NEVIS & TOBAGO ST LUCIA JAMAICA

Tue 13 Mar WI v PAKWed 14 Mar AUS v SCO KEN v CAN Thu 15 Mar SL v BER ZIM v IREFri 16 Mar SA v NET ENG v NZ Sat 17 Mar IND v BAN PAK v IRESun 18 Mar AUS v NET ENG v CAN Mon 19 Mar IND v BER WI v ZIMTue 20 Mar SA v SCO NZ v KEN Wed 21 Mar SL v BAN ZIM v PAKThu 22 Mar SCO v NET NZ v CAN Fri 23 Mar IND v SL WI v IRESat 24 Mar AUS v SA ENG v KEN Sun 25 Mar BER v BAN

ANTIGUA & BARBUDA GRENADA GUYANA BARBADOS

Tue 27 Mar D2 v A1 Wed 28 Mar A2 v B1 Thu 29 Mar D2 v C1 Fri 30 Mar D1 v C2 Sat 31 Mar A1 v B2 Sun 01 Apr D2 v B1 Mon 02 Apr B2 v C1 Tues 03 Apr D1 v A2 Wed 04 Apr C2 v B1 Sat 07 Apr B2 v A2 Sun 08 Apr A1 v C2 Mon 09 Apr D1 v C1 Tue 10 Apr D2 v A2 Wed 11 Apr C2 v B2Thu 12 Apr B1 v C1 Fri 13 Apr A1 v D1Sat 14 Apr A2 v C1 Sun 15 Apr B2 v D1Mon 16 Apr A1 v B1 Tue 17 Apr A2 v C2Wed 18 Apr D1 v B1 Thu 19 Apr D2 v B2Fri 20 Apr A1 v C1 Sat 21 Apr D2 v C2

DATE SEMI- SEMI-FINAL 1 FINAL 2JAMAICA ST LUCIA

Tue 24 Apr 2 v 3 Wed 25 Apr 1 v 4

DATE

Sat 28 Apr BARBADOS

24-25 Listings Pages 30/3/06 6:30 pm Page 25

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27for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia

Win a weekin St Lucia

Competition

You could experience seven thrilling nights on this stunning islandcourtesy of Rex Resorts and the St Lucia Tourist Board. They have kindlyoffered flights and accommodation for two on a bed-and-breakfast basisat the high-class St Lucian by Rex Resorts on Reduit Beach in the bustlingtourist hive of Rodney Bay. The holiday must be taken by December 12006, is subject to availability and the winner will pay all taxes. All youhave to do to enter is answer the following questions:

1 What was the first international match to beplayed at the Beausejour Cricket Ground?

2 How many runs did Garry Sobers score in his Test career?

3 Who won the last World Cup?

Send your entries on a postcard to St Lucia Competition, TWC, 1.4 Shepherds Building,Charecroft Way, London W14 OEH or email [email protected] (with the subjectline ‘St Lucia’) by May 31. Usual TWC rules apply; editor’s decision is final.

If you do not wish your name to be included on any mailing lists that may be passed to other companies, please write “no mailings” on your entry.

www.rexresorts.com

27 Competition.1 31/3/06 2:08 pm Page 27

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Simply contact the St. Lucia Tourist Board0870 900 7697 or [email protected]

YOU ARE SO BEAUTIFUL

St. Lucia is for travellers seeking

enrichment and pleasure through

the wonder of the undiscovered,

the adventure of the unfamiliar,

the freshness of the unspoiled and

the stimulation of the exotic. This

beloved island offers a diverse

range of enchanting places to stay

and things to do, something to

satiate all tastes. Begin your fantasy

with a visit to www.stlucia.org

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