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*iI t

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208

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Geography Department, University of Мinho Centre foc Geographica1 Studie5, University of Lisbon j.sarmento@geografia.uminho.pt

TOURISM ROUTES: MATERIAL HERITAGE

OF PORTUGUESE ORIGIN IN МОКОССО AND GOA

1. Introduction

Routes are ап integral part of our lives. Presently, created or adapted

as tourism routes of тапу sorts, these itineraries, which тау vary from

а simple urban trail to а vast int~rcontinental journey, are опе of the key

elements of tourism development throughout the world. This chapter

attempts to make а preliminary discussion of the spatial configuration of

tourism routes, based ироп existing literature and оп empirical observa­

tions, using various international and national examples. Furthermore,

it applies two of these models to the cases of military heritage of Рос­

tuguese origin in Morocco and Goa, India. Тhe analysis is supported Ьу

fieldwork conducted in Goa in 2008, and in Мососсо, especially during

2010 and 2011.

2. Routes and Roots

ТЬе human body has not Ьееп made to travel at speeds that ·exceed

much more than 30 kilometres per hour. Тhis is rougbly the таютит

speed а human сап run ОП 2009 Usain Bolt set the world record of the 200

meters at а speed of 10.44 meters per second, ос 37.5 kmjhour), and the

209

Hmit velocity at which оиг skull сап absorb impacts without fataI injuries1.

So, whiIe our anatomy has evolved into а design that adapts comforta­

Ыу to travel Ьу walking and running, high speeds and the technologies

that often ассотраnу them are still foreign to оиг bodies. Тwo simple

examples of these limitations аге the dehydration our body suffers when

we spend too тапу hours inside а plane а! high altitudes, ог (Ье effects

from jet lag, simply because we cross times zone (оо quickly. Humans'

settlement history has started ]ong ago, and Фе overwhelming majority of

contemporary societies is now rooted in particular places, being physically

bounded (о relatively restricted spaces. Nevertheless, society as а whole

moves towards routing and is becoming increasingly restless and тоЬiIе.

Travel is grаduаПу тоге ап integral part of (Ье postmodern 'new world

order of mobility' (Clifford 1997:1). With the massification of pleasure

traveI (even if confined (о а раг! of (Ье world's population), ап increasing

number of people traveIs regularly, participating in these flows or scapes

as Ачип Appadurai calls them (Appadurai 1996). The whole world seems

to Ье оп the move: from journalists to migrants and refugees, from (ои­

rists (о movie and sport stars, from military to missionaries of аП kinds.

Apparently, for тапу people the world has по borders. At (Ье same time,

nomads аге world minorities who often Ьесоте (Ье objects of (Ье tourist

gaze (Sarmento and Etemaddar 2009). Tourists traveI great lengths (о see

ог to have brief and superficiaI contacts with nomad indigenous people.

Routes асе journeys that imply movement, some form of spatial рсо­

gress, passing through various elements, attracting millions of tourists. As

Sarmento and Henriques (2009: 285) put it, 'routeing is in fact something

inherent to tourism since tourism is inescapably 'kinaesthetic". Routes

are spatial geometries, and тау vary from relatively short walking ог

cycling trails in а city, to Ionger motorized route itineraries in ЛIгаl set­

tings о!" intercontinental journeys, such as the Silk Road. What аН these

tourist routes have in соттоп is the cultural consumption along the

1 MOl'tality rates I'esulting from run-ovel' accidents inCl'ease dramaticaIIy when they exceed 30 krn/hour: 5% at 32 km/h; 45% at 48 km/h; 85% at 64 km/h and 100% at speeds ovel' 80 km/houl'.

210

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way associated with permanent re-workings of place and culture, which

draw inspiration пот nostalgia, тетогу and tradition, but aIso mystery

and venture (Мипау and Graham 1997; Tirasatayapitak and Laws 2003;

Zoomers 2008). Оnе of the most obvious and positive aspects of the esta­

blishment and development of tourist routes is that they connect several

attractions that not have the potential to аПuге visitors to spend time

and топеу when working independently. ТЬе synergy effect allows for а

greater рuПiпg power, while it disperses visitors' топеу among а larger

number of recipients.

AJmost fifty years ago а working group of the СоипсН of Europe wrote

in а report that there was а need 'to consider the possibilities of setting

ир networks for tourism connected with the cultural geography of Еигоре'

(1964 in Сарр, 2002: 2). АЬои! two decades later, the first European

cultural route was estabJished: the Santiago de Compostela Pilgrim Way

(1987) and roughly а decade later (1998), the Ешореап Council entrusted

to the European Institute of the Cultural Routes the task of monitoring

the Cultural Routes program as а whole. Presently, there аге hundreds

of cultural routes in Еигоре and thr~ughout the world, with aims that

range from tourism development, identity building and common heritage

pI'eservation.

3. Spatial configuration of Routes

Particularly as а result of transport development, the world is now

covered Ьу tourism routes in а broad sense, and it is possibJe to go from

point А to point В almost anywhere in the globe. Regulation, government

роliсу, Iegal issues, technology, impacts, and most importantly here iti­

neraries, have naturally changed dramatically in the past decades (see

Graham, Papatheodorou and Forsyth, 2008). То fly from Еигоре to North

America we по 10nger need to stop in the Azores, as occurred with the

first transatlantic flights in the early twentieth century. То а large degree,

and in тапу cases, we сап say that all that we аге left with is the origin

and the destination. Nevertheless, there аге still тапу regions of the world

211

where land transportation is the опlу possibJe way of movement, and for уаПОUБ сеаБОПБ, it сап Ье quite slow.

TABLE 1 - Spatial configurations of tourism routes

1,

2.

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While the study of tourist flows has Ьееп the subject of relatively little

academic enquiry (МсКессЬес and Lew 2004), Беуесаl authors have dis­

cussed and proposed spatial models of itineraries (Lue, Crompton, and

Fesenmaier 1993; Оррестапп 1995; Flognfeldt 1999; МсКессЬес and Lew

212

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2003, 2004) and spatial movement patterns of tourists within а destina­

tion (Lew and МсКессЬес 2006). Based оп these models 1 Ьауе identified

three main types of tourism routes - single destination, secondary desti­

nations and multiple destinations - рlиБ variations (ТаЫе 1). Since this is

ап exploratory study, it is not ту аiш to present а crystallised version of

tourism route spatial models, but to ореп ир а discussion of these models

and their application.

3.1. Single destioatioo

Modell refers to а single origin and а single destination. It is the typical

model of а charter trip поm north Еисоре to а southern resort in Епrоре

ос in Africa. We could also think of tourists leaving ап airport БисЬ аБ

Oporto, in north Portugal, travelling directly to а resort in northeast Brazil

ос the Dominican Republic. When at destination, tourists spend most of

their time within Фе resort (the hotel, the swimming pools, restaurants

and bars), and venture very little outsi~e this 'safe Брасе'. The five models

from lа to lе асе variations of this first опе, and principally refer (о tou­

rists travelling Ьу land. Stops сап Ье for refreshments, overnight, but also

foc visiting attractions sисЬ аБ тиБеитБ ос particular landscapes. ТЬеБе

attractions тау Ье important enough foc toucists to detour and exit their

main route (1Ь, опlу the routes; 1с, Боте sites). In тапу cases, with the

construction of infrastructures like bridges ос motorways, тапу villages

ос places lose their function and соlе аБ providers of resting places. In

Portugal, until quite recently towns like Oliveira de Azemeis and Alcacer do

Sal were уесу important оп the tourism route from Oporto to the Algarve.

Loc~l businesses along the national road were replaced Ьу the тосе gene­

ric landscapes of motorway service stations. Yet, despite their поп-рlасе

characteristics (Auge 1995), they still guard some cultucal aspects of the

region where they асе implemented. Motorway service stations around

Coimbra, for example, БеН sandwiches of suckling pig, а regional favou­

rite dish, which is not found elsewhere in Portuguese motorway service

stations. Regional pastry follows the saтe spatial pattern.

213

Model1d refers to а situation where tourists traveI directly оп опе leg оЕ

the route, and make stops оп the other leg. Ап example that fits this modeI

is the 9289 kilometres Trans-Siberian train journey, which is опlу normaIIy

traveIIed in опе direction (usually from West to East), complemented with

а flight journey. Another situation refers to the cruises in the Douro riveT,

in the north of Portugal: tourists either take а bus от train inland пот

Oporto and then descend the river Ьу boat, or travel ир Tiver Ьу boat and

descend to Oporto Ьу train от bus. А final exaтple of the application of this

model is the routes followed Ьу тапу pilgrims in the Santiago Way. Pilgrims

geneTaIly only walk in опе direction - а Iarge proportion of the 15,000 to

20,000 piIgrims that walk the route start in the Franco-Spanish border in

the Pyrenees (Slavin 2003), using another mode оЕ transport (mostly bus,

taxi or private car) in the other direction (Бее Murray and Graham 1997).

Model 1е represents а situation where the destination is actually ап атр]е

Брасе, but either not large enough to шakе tourists overnight in different

places, or not having facilities to allow for such а thing. Ап example would

Ье tourists that fly from Lisbon or Oporto to islands БисЬ as Flores ос Sao

Jorge in the Azores, moving around with а rented сас, but a]ways s]eeping

in the same place. ТЬе city of Sao Тоте, in Sao Тоте and Principe is a]so

ап example, since the lack of infrastructures in the country does not allow

for tourists to overnight in тапу places other than the capital. This model

somehow overlaps with modeI 3а (Бее be110W).

3.2. Secondary destinations

ModeI 2 represents а situation where there is тосе than опе destination

ос at Ieast there is опе ос more secondary destinations. It might refer to

а journey with а stopover ,that aIIows for visiting and traveIIing а particu­

lar destination. It is quite соттоп in Iong Ьаиl journeys, and nowadays

p]aces like Dubai, АЬи Dhabi or Qatar attempt to take advantage of their

10cation 'in-between' Еиторе and South and Southeast Asia to attract

travel1ers. Лiс Emirates for example, ЬаБ а specific package that includes

accommodation, airport transfers and visa, for stopovers по longer than

214

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98 Ьошв in either Duhai ос АЬи Dhabi (вее http://fly.emirates.com). For

different reasons than before this model goes back to the time when air

travel had compulsory stops Еос refuelling and other techni<;:al issues.

ModeI 2а includes various stops along the way, before arriving tat the

principal destination. А good example here is the motor-home holidays

Ьу northern ЕитореаПБ to the Algarve. ТЬеу тау stop various times and

for severaI days along the way, before touring the region of the Algarve

for several months, their main destination (according to Domingues and

Ramos (2009), there асе about 37,000 motor-home tourists in Portugal

every year). Model 2Ь considers а destination that concentrates the majo­

rity of tourism facilities in the region, and which serves as а basis for

daytrips or short trips in а region. This alIows for tourists to visit various

attractions, returning to the saтe point. It also allows for а dispersion

of tourists and the possibility to direct them to the least sensitive areas.

А basis in Oporto and daytrips or short trips to Guimaraes, Braga, the

Douro Valley, etc. is а good example.

3.3. Mu1tiple destinations

Model 3 represents tourism routes in spaces with sound quality tou­

rist infrastructures, which allows tourists to tour а region and overnight

in different places - trip changing. ТЬе modeI accounts for 'ореп jaw'

journeys, that is, starting in опе point and finishing in another, before

returning to the initial departure. Good examples of this configuration

in island hopping in Croatia (starting in SpHt and finishing in Dubrov­

nik, passing through the islands of Brac, Hvar, Korcula and Mjet) or in

те Azores, despite in the latter case being more difficult to make ореп

jaw journeys due to the Hmited flight routes to the mainland. Model 3а

represents almost the same situation, but at а smal1er scale. Destinations

therefore асе not overnight sites. The difference between this model

and model 1е is оп whether we consider опе extensive destination or

а group of destinations. Examples of the application of this model асе

shown bellow, with the heritage of Portuguese origin in Morocco and Goa.

215

4. Drafting tourism routes based оп the Portoguese Heritage throughout

the world

For over five centuries (1415-1974), the Portuguese built or adapted

fortifications, churches, Ьоивеs, palaces, etc. along the coasts of Africa,

Asia and South America (Mattoso 2010). Presently, these countless materiaI

legacies are located in the political boundaries of at least 25 independent

states аН in the Glohal South. As 1 have argued eIsewhere in relation to

Forts and fortifications (Sarmento 2011), these audacious architectural

forms сan Ье understood as active materia11egacies of empire that repre­

sent promises, dangers and possibilities, which асе deeply understudied

Ьу academics, including geographers. Мар 1 partly iIlustrates (Ье geo­

graphical scattering of these attractions, but aIso serves as а first step to

think about possibiHties of organising some of these resources into more

coherent groups that аПоw for the creation of tourism routes. In this text

1 focus оп the cluster of Forts 10cated in Morocco and in the Indian state

of Goa. Мапу other clusters could Ье identified, such as in coastaI Brazi1;

Angolaj North Mozambique, Tanzania and Кепуа; the Arabic peninsula

region, including Отап ос Qatar, Iran; ~nd IпШа.

FIGURE 1 - Forts throughout the world

о 1000 ~m ~

• ~Нош [] lInes<DWor!dfterfurg"Slte

Source; modified from Sarmento 2011

216

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But before embarking оп а discussion of some of the possibi1ities of

using these sites in а coherent tоurisш route, 1 шust high1ight the fact

that such ап endeavour should not Ье regarded as а пео-соlопiаI action

О! а project bui1t ироп а nostaIgic view of the past, but should Ье framed

in the possibi1ities that such developments шight produce in IocaI deve-

10ршепt, job creation, and enhancement of and articulation with 10са1,

regional and nationaI identities.

4.1. Forts in Morocco

Мососсо is а North African country with а population of 33 шiIliоп

people and ап асеа of 710,850 square kilometres. It borders Algeria in

the East and Southeast and the disputed territory of Western Sahara in

the Southwest. Tourism Ьав Ьееп significant since the early twentieth

century (Hunter 2010), and in the 1930s it was already опе of the шоst

irnportant earners of the соипиу. Since then, tourist numbers never ceased

to increase. FoIlowing оп the Plan Azur Vision 2010, implemented Ьу the

Moroccan government in 2001, and the signature of the open-skies EU

agreement in 2005, the tourism indust:ry Ьесаше опе of шоst important

in the соипиу, expected to directly account for 9,1% of total GDP and

for а tota! contribution of emp!oyment of 17,3% in 2011 (Wor!d Trave!

and Tourism СоипсН 2011). In 2009 it was опе of the few countries in

the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) region that registered positive

tourism figures. In 2010 the country registered over 9 million tourists.

ТЬе country's tourist attractions are vast. Тhey range from а long Atlantic

coastline, some newly built Mediterranean resorts, ancient cities with

remarkable architecturaJ features, а large range of mountains (High Atlas,

Mid Atlas, Anti Atlas and the Rift mountains) and desert environments.

Despite а Iong conflict in the Western Sahara and воте terrorist attacks

(2003 in Casablanca and 2011 in Marrakesh), the соипиу is viewed as

опе of the safer and tourist friendly in the Maghreb.

Material heritage of Portuguese origin in Morocco is abundant, espe­

cially оп the Atlantic coast, and it сап Ье divided into military, religious

217

TABLE II - Principa1 Forts of Portuguese Origin in Мососсо

Вu.i1, or Lost

.. . .. INearest ·ТOЩism ~ Conservation

occupied ......•.... t'ort(km) infra--stnictures', -

1. Ksar es Seghir 1458 1550 Ruins 36 No

2. Tanger 1471 1661 Роос 40 Уе.

3. Asilah (ЛrzНа) 1471 1550 Good 40

4. Лzатос 1513 1541 Роо, 12 Роос

5. Е1 ]adida CМazagan) 1514 1769 Good-Unesco 12 Уе>

6. Safi CSafim) 1508 1541 Good 40 Роос

7. Sueira Kedima (Aguz) 1508 1541 Ruins 40 No

8. Ceuta (Spain) 1515 1640 Good 36 Уе>

• ТЬе classification as 'poor' implies [hat the for[ or fortification has been substantially rnodified and i[ is hard for те average tourist [о distinguish 'original' parts of Portuguese origin and other (re)cons­

truc[ions and rnodifications.

and civil architecture. With опе or two exceptions, this material heritage

does not fit prominently in the tourist brochures of the country. Based

оп fieldwork conducted mainly in 2010 and 2011, Ьесе 1 focus оп the

military architecture of Portuguese origin (see ТаЫе 11), and examine the

most suitabIe spatial model for а possibIe tourism route. Оп the official

tourism web site of Мососсо (www.visitmorocco.com. accessed in Мау

2011), Фесе is по specific entry for Рош, Fortifications ос Castles. Through

Фе category 'Arts and Culture' we сап obtain Боте information Ьу fol1o­

wing the Hnk concerning the Unesco World Heritage in Morocco, which

directs visitors to Mazagan (Е] Jadida). Another 'route' is to go directly to

the cities of Tangiers (although there is по reference to the Portuguese

and the emphasis is оп the nineteenth century social and cultural Hfe)

or Mazagan (instead of having information оп the city of EI Jadida, the

option is to inform tourists of the new]y built Mazagan resort, some 10

km away). Information оп Safi and Asilah is found under 'Other cities'. In

fact, the sea view Есот АsНаЬ is опе оЕ the most iconic views оЕ Moroccan

tourism. ТЬе site proposes а ful1 tour оЕ Morocco in two weeks, starting in

CasabIanca, going north to Rabat, Larache, Lixus, Tetouan, Chefchaouen,

218

Fes, Moulay Idrissi, Meknes, Volubi1is, Midelt, Erfud, Errachidia, Ouarza­

zate, Marrakech, Taroudant, Tafrouat and Tiznit, Agadir, Essaouira, Safi

and EI Jadida, and back to Casablanca.

4.2. Spatia1 Routes in Morocco

Considering Фе three шaiп airports in Morocco - СаsаЫапса, Marrakesh

and Agadir, (7,2; 3,3; 1,6 million passengers in 2010, respectively - Office

National des Aeroports, 2010), and the main passenger епПу maritime

port _ Tangiers, and the location оЕ and distances between the 8 Forts

of Portuguese origin in Morocco (see ТаЫе 11), 1 suggest опе model of

'multip]e destination - trip changing' (model 3) and two models of 'Circuit

destination with stops - partiaI orbit' (model 3а) (Figure 2). Border crossing

N

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FIGURE 2 - Мососсо Мар

Spaln 'Кs;Ir'~ЩU.Г

тangiersfi8ce,l!.~ A<I!""

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Source: Author

219

Могоссо

A1ger1a

• 4Gateways

• Fort Route Extension

at Ceuta is also another important tourist entry in the country and could

also Ье considered Ьу sHghtly modifying the first model. Рroт Agadir,

the nearest significant fort is Safi, at а distance of 253 km. Since there ахе

two important tourists attractions nеахет (Marrakech and Essaouira ахе

241 km and 172 km away, respectively), it is not expected that tourists

travel to Safi, unless they ате niche tourists with а particular interest in

heritage of Portuguese origin.

1. Total of 167 km (ос 245 km including Ceuta): start in Tangiers and

travel to АБilаЬ (49 km), then via inland to Alcacer Ceguer (85 km),

with а possible extension to Ceuta (crossing the border to Spain and

return 78 km), returning to Tangiers Ьу the coast (33 km);

2. Total of 359 km: start in СаБаЫапса and travel to Azamour (89km),

overnight in El-Jadida (16 km), continue to Safi (154 km), with а

possible extension to Souira Kedima (41 km), and return;

3. Tota1 of 380 km: start in Marrakech and travel to Safi 054 km), continue

to Souira Кещта (41 kш) and сештп following almost the same route.

FIGURE 3 - Azamour

Source; Author, 2010

220

4.3. Forts in Goa

Goa is аn independent state of India, located оп the East Coast of the

country, with а population of 1,34 million people. It is опе of the smal­

lest states of India, with ап атеа of 3,702 square kilometres, bordering

two large states: Maharashtra to the north and Karnataka to the West

and South. Goa's capital, Panaji, is located about 600 kilometres south of

Mumbai. While in the early 19605 оте, iron and mangane5e were the only

relevant export5 of Goa, nowadays, tourism is the most important 5ector

of the state'5 есопоmу. Tourism boomed in the 19605, зftет the Portugue5e

withdrawal in December 1961, and the small territory Ьесаmе а haven

for hippies and low budget travellers. Throughout the 1960Б, 1970Б and

тuсЬ of the 19805 this was the dominant and ШО5t visiЫe type of tourism,

characterised Ьу budget, small scale and low quality accommodation,

seasonal beach shacks, Нпеас development along the main coastal road5

ineluding seasonal shops, and а very pronouneed 5patially eoneentrated

оп the coast. As Saldanha (2002, 96) puts it, 'Quickly, drug trafficking,

psychedeHc music and partying formed а sound (if relatively informal)

infrastrueture for а hedonistic traveller culture stil1 very mиеЬ alive to

thi5 day, шоstlу in the northern viПаgе of Anjuna.'

Throughout the last two decade5, pressure оп water supplies and

increasing water salination of coastal aquifers intensified, at the saтe

time as another type of touri5m emerged. TWs wa5 characterised Ьу large

scale developments, aiming at attracting blgh 5pending tourists. Presently,

according to the Goa Department ofTourism (2010) there ате 15 five star

hotels in Goa, which makes а totaJ оЕ 4601 beds (38 per cent оЕ the total

number of bed5 in star category hotels). In 2009 the state registered тоте

than 2.5 million vi5itors (Go~ Department ofTourism 2010). Importantly

Ьете is the faet that 'free itinerary travellers accounted for almost half оЕ

Eoreign touri5ts arriving in Goa' (Navhind Times 2011), which means that

these tourists have а great flexibility in the activitie5 they do during the day.

In 2008, the Officia1 Goa Tourism Web Site (www.goa-tourism.com) had

аn entry for 'Forts in Goa' where it stated: fCompared to Indian 5tandards,

Goan Eorts are very small in size'. Thi5 would iпunеdiаtеlу raise the issue

221

of Indian heritage versus Goan heritage (Бее 8aldanha 2002). Тhis 'dispute'

is further complicated when it is stated that '8оmе асе awesome in БЬеес

size Hke the Ruins of the 8t. Augustine's Tower' - buiIt Ьу Augustinian

missionaries in 1602 Ьи! по! а Fort - 'while others are marveIlous pieces

of architecture, such as the Gate of the Адil Shah's Palace at OId Goa' _

the last evidence of а Palace ЬиН! Ьу the Sultan of Bijapur, Ьи! also not

а Fort. Тhis text сап по longer Ье found оп the site, and presently (Мау

2011), only six Forts are presented in the officiaI web site: Aguada, СаЬо

da Rama, СаЬо Raj Niwas (presently the official residence of the Governor

of Goa and а поп visitabIe site), СЬароса, Mormurgao (опlу ruins exist)

and TerekhoI. Significantly, they do not match the ten forts (Aguada, Reis

Magos, СЬарога, Khorjuvem. 8t. Estevao, Aloma, Mormugao, СаЬо de

Rama, Colvale and Terekhol) that have Ьееп designated аБ 'Tourist Places'

and are presently included in the list of the Goa Tourist Places, according

to the Protection and Maintenance Act of 2001 (Goa Government 2001).

Тhis vague ап imprecise text (where оп the опе hand it is written that

'most of them [Portuguese Forts] асе in сеаБопаЫе state of preservation',

and оп the other hand 'most of Фет Не in ruins') reveaIs the littIe сасе

and emphasis that is put ироп bui1t heritage in Goa and the Iack of а

strategy that aims, among other things, to promote and develop а type

of tourism that departs from the dominant 'sun, sea, sand and rave' type.

Despite some recent restoration in some forts2 , throughout the state, very

littIe information сап Ье obtained about these forts, either in the form of

leaflets, brochures or road signs. In 2008, 1 visited ten forts in Goa over а

period of five weeks. Му personal ехрепепсе revealed that the location of

Боте of the inland forts is aIso unknown to тапу Iocals, even at а short

distance from the асtпаl sites. 1 could not find evidence of Sanquelim

Fort, near Bicholim, and for lack оЕ time it was not possibIe to visit Tivim,

Pond:i, Nanuz, Monnurgao and Anjediva. ТЬе diversity оЕ the visited Forts

is considerable (see ТаЫе IП).

2 10 Reis Мagos Fort restoration began in 2007 and it was expected to Ье completed in 2010. St. Estevao was the second fort to have restoration work. Бuilt in the late 15th century Ьу Adil Shah, it is опе оЕ the oldest forts in Goa. Тheгe зге signs that Corjuem and Лlота could Ье the nех! targets of restoration.

222

.·1.1.'", ~1 ~ '~~ ~!

-,~

',," ~ii

j :ti "\< ';1'

:" )j

;i

_А

/:~

,~ft

[ri" li', '!"

,,,;.

т ABLE ПI - Forts in Goa

.•........ ' ...•..... .. '·Иui1' .'

......... , Neэrest Со ... Тошism· .•..

Naтe_,- ,:~:' Conservation' .' ....

'. . .... ...... (kш) infra~6tructures

1. Rachol 1520 Ruins 40 No

2. O!dGoa Еагlу 1500s РООГ 8 Уе,

3. Corjuern 1705 Good 10 No

4. St. Estevao 149&-1510 Ruins 8 No

5. Alота 1746 Good 35 No

6. YJ.racol 1746 Good (Ноte!) 15 Уе,

7. СЬарога 1617 Ruins 15 Уе.

8. Aguada 1612 Good (IIote1) 5 Уе,

9. Reis Мagos 1551 Good 5 Уе,

10. СаЬо de Rama 1763 Good 40 No

4.4. Spatial Routes in Goa

In Goa, unlike Мососсо, not аН f@cts are located оп the coastal zone,

which is where tourists and tourism infrasuucture are concentrated. This

сап Ье ап advantage in ап attempt to disperse tourists in the state and to

aIIow for less visited regions to engage in tourism. StiII, most Forts are

located in the north region of Pernem and Bardez (Fig. 4). At the Бате

time, aIso contrasting with Morocco, there is only опе main епЩ in Goa,

which is the airport at Dabolim, опе ofthe top 10 airports in India. In this

regard it is important to mention that а large number of tourists arrive

Ьу charter flights (see Wilson 1997), а number that ЬаБ Ьееп increasing:

between 1985 and 2011, the number of charter flights rose from 24 to 889,

and the number of passengers boosted from 3,568 to 171,000 thousand

(see Saldanha 2002 апд DigitaI Goa 2011). Presently, over half of these

charter flights originate in Eastern Europe, with Russia topping the list

traditionaIIy dominated Ьу the UK, which а1Б0 signals а сЬаngе in the

tourists' profile visiting the state. StiII, British stiII account for almost half

of а1l foreign tourists in Goa. Tourists arriving Ьу raH or bus are а smaH

fraction of the total number of tourists.

223

Considering two main staging агеаБ - that is the агеаБ where most

hotels and tourism faci1ities ате concentrated - in coastal Bardez and

coastal Salcete, it is possibJe to establish three models 3а 'Circuit des­

tination with stops - partial orbit', two of which depart from the Бате

point. Reflecting the small size of the state, especially when compared

with the case of Мососсо, аН of these routes have тuсЬ shorter lengths,

approximately 80-95 kilometres.

1. Total 95 km: start from Saicete coast (о Rachol (25-30 km) and then

joumey directly (о СаЬо da Rama (40km) and return (20-25 km).

2. Total 85 km: start from Bardez coast to Tiracol (15 km), crossing Ьу

ferry in Querim to this Goese enclave, joumey to Alorna (35 km)

and return (35 km).

3. Total 80 kш: start from Bardez coast to Corjuem (20 kш), continue

(о St. Estevao (10km), (о Old Goa (8 km), (о Reis Magos (15 km), (о

Aguada (5 km), (о Chapora (15 km) and return (о departure point

(5-10 km).

Тiracol

• Staglng Аreзs • Fort .0 ....

cannecrlon

~

FIGURE 4 - Goa Мар

N

()

~K""

Source: Author

224

,t,

!f: ХИ>

'I;~; ',1,(.: " ." ,: "~:

J"': ;ii,_ ,., iЩI:,

*1

;W,

.~'.'

;i,'

,i.r

It'

'.1" ,'il~;

,J; ,\1,

;t,; _\fi)

<IX

FIGURE 5 - Fort Aguada Ramparts

Source: Author, 2008

5. Conclusion

Despite the importance of tourism routes throughout the world, and

their imminent spatiaI dimension, geographers have largely neglected

their spatial architecture. In this article 1 intended to discuss the princi­

раl spatial configurations of tourism routes, providing international аБ

well аБ Portuguese examples, as well as drafting two application5 of the

models using the Material Heritage of Portuguese origin in Мотоссо and

in Goa. ТЬеге ате а few points that should Ье stressed before closing

this preliminary analysi5 of spatial routes and material heritage of Portu­

guese origin in Мотоссо and Goa. ТЬе first опе relates to the fact that if

а tourism route is designed solely thinking about опе particular type of

heritage, it will fиnction only for а specific niche tourism (Бее Siтбеs and

Ferre1ra 2009), that 1Б, for people who аге оnlу interested in fortifications

of Portuguese origin, for example. It i5 unlikely that тапу tourists want

to make а tour of а region от country looking only for а particular and

specific type of heritage.

225

ТЬе second point is that а РСОРОБаl аБ the опе 1 have just presented,

which overlooks other important cultural aspects of these _ countries,

сап Ье perceived and understood as being of а colonial nature, еБре­

cially in the case of Goa (see Saldanha 2002), since in the Мососсап

case heritage of Portuguese origin goes back to а тuсЬ еасНес period

and has different resonances (Бее Sarmento 2011). In this Indian state

it would Ье important to connect or at least to point not опlу to other

heritage bui1dings of Portuguese origin, suсЬ аs the abundant churches

and civil architecture, but especially to the various existing temples

(notable Ponda and Pernem), to тиsеиms, to festivals and to the тапу

sites of resistance and domination, which are historically interconnected

(Axelrod and Fuerch 1996).

Finally, this 'neo-colonial view' would only Ье the саБе if the inter­

pretation of these sites is опе dimensional. At Fort Tirakol, now а

seven-room up-market heritage hotel where ancient quarters and сеllБ

were transformed into rooms and lavish bathrooms with views towards

the Arabian Sea, there is а rich story that worked аs а prelude to Goa's

liberation (ос occupation) in the mid 1950Б. Freedom fighters occupied

the Fort for some days оп several occasions and raised the Indian flag.

Опе other ехаmрlе if the саsе of СЬароса Fort. After being the setting

of the Bollywood movie Dil Chahata На; [Оо уош thing] (2001), hun­

dreds of Indians, for whom Portuguese built heritage is quite distant,

visit Fort Chapora every weekend to РОБе, capture and sit оп the same

landscapes and stones where movie stars опсе were. ТЬеБе experiences

are not about the resonances of the colonial past, but about modern

contemporary India, and about the ways locals have Ьееп appropriating

these material sites. Understanding the opportunities and drawbacks

that tourism and heritage РОБе in the Global South, and the complex

role they play within the national and socio-cultural reconstruction of

post-conflict and postcolonial societies needs to Ье urgently addressed.

Most of these sites are associated with battlefields, slavery wharehouses,

and other events that should play ап important role in the construction

of postcolonial states.

226

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