An Overview of Bits and Bitting

INTRODUCTIONThere are literally hundreds of types of bits on the market, and the options can be overwhelming for someone looking to make a selection for his or her horse. From the most basic $5 curb to several hundred dollar custom bits and the "fix-all" fads, the variety is astounding.

While a solid foundation is of the utmost importance and no bit can fix training issues on its own, it is true that each bit works in a different way and serves a different purpose. Some horses work better in one type of bit, while another might prefer something entirely different. It's up to the trainer to find something that the horse works well in to reach the animal's full potential.

As a horse matures, grows, and changes, its bitting needs will probably change as well. If it begins to have training "issues," it may be time to step back to basics with a gentler bit, not reach for something harsher with more control.

This guide is intended as a basic overview and resource for the selection of material, mouthpiece, cheek, and construction in the choice of bitting for a Western or English horse in training for any discipline.  Always consult a trainer if unsure of the bit that works best with your riding ability and your horse's conformation and experience level.  Some horses, due to varying heights of palate, tongue injuries, or other issue, will not be able to accomodate some mouthpieces, or may do best with a non-bitted alternative.  Also, never forget the importance of good veterinary and dental care in the response of a horse to any tack choice.

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Materials:Chrome/Nickel PlatedPlated metal bits are almost exclusively low end in terms of quality and price. While they may initially be aesthetically pleasing, regular use will cause the plating to chip off, creating a sharp/rough edge to cut and irritate the tongue and bars.

Stainless SteelStainless steel is probably one of the more common materials on the market (especially in cheaper bits, though this does not mean it's neccessarily a bad thing). It tends to dry the mouth out more than some other metals, but some horses simply seem to prefer it to the alternatives. It is very durable, easy to clean, and will not rust--so it looks good and lasts virtually forever.

Sweet IronAnother common material, sweet iron increases salivation and encourages horses to play with and accept the bit. Many horses like it for this reason. Because it rusts and turns dark, it doesn't look as "pretty," but it does tend to last a long time if cared for.

CopperCopper also encourages salivation. It can be found either in the entire mouthpiece (rather uncommon) or as inserts in either a stainless or sweet iron bit (very common). This is a softer metal, so completely copper bits may not last as long as others, especially if the horse chews on it due to its taste. Some horses will not tolerate the taste.

RubberA rubber (or rubber coated) mouthpiece is very gentle. A completely rubber mouthpiece will bend with the mouth when a lot of pressure is applied. Some horses love these bits; others absolutely despise them and will run through them. If your horse tends to chew on or mouth the bit, the mouthpiece will have to be replaced periodically as they will literally bite through the rubber. Some rubber bits are flavored like apple or peppermint and are used to introduce a young horse to a bit or teach a horse to take the bit.

PlasticPlastic is a less common material for bit construction, but made popular by the English "Happy Mouth" series. It is fairly delicate (but holds up well when horses don't chew the bit) and gentle (like rubber, though far less flexible). As an active-mouthed horse chews on the mouthpiece, it may become rough and sharp, and for this reason, plastic has a very mixed review among horse trainers.  In addition, the fatness of a plastic mouthpiece may not accomodate a horse with a low palate.

AluminumAluminum is used fairly frequently on the shanks of bits, but is not as common in mouthpieces due to some controversy as to whether or not it's toxic. Aluminum is said to dry out

the mouth. Its main advantage is that it is lightweight, unlike the other materials, but this is a matter of personal preference. It's very soft and can get chewed up easily. Aluminum mouthpieces are most commonly seen on gaited horse bits.

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MouthpiecesJointed "Snaffle"

Why this mouthpiece is called a "snaffle" is a mystery to me, as snaffle actually refers to an unshanked bit. Still, tack catalogs and trainers alike often refer, incorrectly, to a "snaffle mouth." Regardless, this is a very widespread mouthpiece--perhaps the most common of all. When you pull back on the reins, pressure is applied to the bars of the mouth. It also pulls back on the tongue. Depending on the construction of the bit, the middle joint may hinge inwards in the "nutcracker effect." This may cause a pinching of the tongue, and in extreme cases, the point may reach the roof of the mouth. Despite this, the snaffle mouthpiece is considered pretty mild and can be found with many different styles of shanks. It's especially popular for starting bits.

This mouthpiece is often rounded, smooth, and of medium diameter. In general, the thinner and rougher the mouthpiece, the harsher the bit.

Other varieties include the twisted wire, whose texture works on the bars and tongue with more sensitivity:

The extra-thin wire (extremely harsh; can cut the mouth):

The double wire, whose twin mouthpieces create a "scissor" effect in the mouth, pinching the tongue:

Several squared off, rubber, or extra-wide varieties also exist on the market.

The single-joint is a good mouthpiece for general riding, breaking, training, and fixing vices, although its exact use depends on the shanks it's mounted on.

Three-pieceThe three-piece mouthpiece is similar to the single-joint mouth in that it works off bar pressure and provides only limited tongue relief. When pressure is applied, the two outside pieces pull into the bars and flex at the joints. The center piece stays flat and lies against the tongue. This is in contrast to the two-piece snaffle mouth, which collapses and shoots upwards in the “nutcracker effect.” For this reason, the three-piece is much less likely to pinch and is considered milder, although it has the same amount of control.

Variations include the dogbone:

the roller (which gives an anxious horse something to play with):

and the lifesaver (pinching is virtually impossible, but the center ring will pull tight across the tongue, and can

roll into the tongue quite severely):

Because it is simple and gentle, the three-piece mouth is also a good starting, breaking, and problem-fixing mouthpiece—once again depending on the shanks it is mounted on. Many horses prefer a three-piece mouth over a two-piece one.

In the English world, three-piece bits are usually called either French Link or Dr. Bristol, the difference being how the middle joint folds. A French link folds gently over the tongue and lays flat and does not press into the palate, whereas a Dr. Bristol's middle link is turned sideways--and often squared off--so that the link does press into the palate and tongue.

French Link:

Dr. Bristol:

Ported Bits and Correction Mouthpieces

The “port” is the little thingy in the center of the mouthpiece that curves upwards toward the roof of the mouth. It may be solid, but is usually open underneath—which provides tongue relief for a broke horse. Generally speaking, the wider the port, the more tongue relief and the milder the bit; the taller the port, the more likely it is to come in contact with the roof of the mouth, which can be severe, although many seasoned horses work off this type of pressure.

A moderate port is often called a “correction mouthpiece” and is found almost exclusively on shanked bits, with a few exceptions.

A narrow port, such as the one above, provides little to no tongue relief. The attachments at the joints allow for folding motion only in one action; thus, the bit can collapse onto the bars, but the port cannot be lifted off of the tongue. A solid, unbroken ported bit works well on broke horses who know how to neck rein, as it gives them tongue relief and does not interfere with many moving parts. However, most three-piece ported bits do not move in the expected three-piece manner because they are hinged vertically, not horizontally, and do not respond to independent shank movement.

Compare that to this bit below, which allows for horizontal swiveling and increased independence of rein commands:

A cathedral bit has a very high, narrow port and is best left for very broke horses and experienced trainers who understand the bit's action.

A low, wide, broad port, on the other hand, provides a lot of tongue relief, although on a solid mouthpiece, it does not allow for much independent side reining.

ChainThe chain is considered a harsh mouthpiece because it conforms to the horse’s mouth and does not give any tongue relief whatsoever. It can also pinch, and rough hands can grate the chain across the lips, potentially cutting them. On the other hand, the fact that a chain conforms to the mouth can make it very comfortable for a horse to carry when the reins are loose. Chain mouthpieces are often found on gag shanks or solid shanks and are very popular with gaited horses and in the world of rodeo, particularly for ropers and barrel racers. In the right hands, a chain mouthpiece can teach lateral movement and flexion as well as getting a good “whoa.” In the wrong hands (or in the wrong mouth) it can be disastrous.

A variation is the bikechain or “mule bit” mouthpiece. It is usually sawed/serrated on one side, and smooth on the other and reversible for different effects. While I won’t condemn any bit entirely and say it should never be used, I can’t imagine any instance where a rider would need something this harsh and dangerous. It can certainly pinch and cut.

WaterfordThe fat mouthpiece bends and folds with the horse. The balls press into nerves on the horse's tongue that are not generally affected with other mouthpices. Some horses love this bit; others hate it.

MullenThe Mullen mouthpiece is smooth, thick, and solid. It may be flat (lots of tongue pressure) or slightly curved (some tongue relief). It is often found on short, solid shanks and advertised as a “colt bit.” It is not harsh at all, but it has very little finesse, so teaching things like collection and lateral movement are extremely difficult. The Mullen mouth is good for teaching “whoa” and getting a young horse used to a shanked bit without scaring him, or as an alternative to the pinching of a snaffle mouthpiece. It may also work on older, broke horses who don’t respond well to other mouthpieces and need tongue pressure. Rubber or plastic mouthpiece are often Mullen in design.

 

 

Types of BitsSnafflesThe simplest type of bit, the characteristics of a snaffle are no shanks, no leverage action, and no curb. They work directly off of rein pressure--the same amount of pressure is applied to the mouth as is applied by the hands. Snaffles are often used as beginning bits to introduce a horse to having something in its mouth and respond to different sorts of rein contact. They are generally pretty mild (depending on the mouthpiece). In Western disciplines, snaffles are often used with a curb strap or bit hobble that serves no purpose other than to position the bit correctly and keep it from pulling through the mouth.

The different cheek pieces include O-ring/loose-ring (when you pull right, the right side of the bit tightens against the bars and the bit may pull through the mouth; the mouthpiece is free to rotate around the circumference, and pinching may occur at the mouthpiece connection):

D-ring (the mouthpiece is fixed in place; when you pull right, the right side of the bit tightens against the cheek and the outer left side of the bit pulls into the left side off the mouth--this allows for outside "pushing" as well as inside "pulling" cues):

Eggbutt (pretty similar to a D-ring, a little less opposite side pressure and slightly more likely to pull through the mouth):

Half Cheek (applies lots of pressure on the opposite side):

Full Cheek (applies tons of pressure from the opposite side on both top and bottom, giving horses a "push in the right direction"--this is why it can be a good bit for young or stiff horses; also, the vertical cheek pieces are often controlled with keepers in the bridle):

Curb Bits Curb bits are not for young, green, or inexperienced horses due to their often-indirect and advanced action; rather, horses must be transitioned into them gradually as broke-ness, finesse, and responsiveness increase.  Curb bits differ from snaffles in that they apply leverage pressure in the form of a curb strap or chain. The shanks increase the amount of pressure that is applied to the mouth, magnifying the hands’ action. When the reins are pulled, the bit rotates in the mouth. The mouthpiece engages more fully as more pressure is applied, the curb tightens, and when it has tightened as far as it can go, strong pressure is applied to the mouth. Curb bits will also apply some degree of poll pressure, though for most this is very minimal. Generally speaking, the longer and straighter the shank, the more the pressure is magnified, and the harsher the bit. A long purchase (the upper part of the shank between the mouthpiece and bit hanger) also increases leverage and severity. A long, curved shank bit gives some warning in between the time the reins are picked up and the bit engages, while a short, straight shank bit engages almost immediately. Mild curb bits are great for teaching collection, flexion, and lateral movement. A short, curved-shank curb with a three-piece or snaffle mouthpiece is good for introducing a young horse to leverage pressure without scaring him after he has graduated from a snaffle. A curb with a solid or correctional mouthpiece is considered “the” bit for broke Western horses who know how to neck-rein—there is no direct reining here, as the fixed shanks do not allow for independent side movement.

In terms of curb construction, the mildest is flat leather, followed by rawhide, double chain, single chain, and finally the severe “power curb.” A tighter curb means the mouthpiece will engage sooner.

Gag Bits Gag bits (called elevator bits in the English world) seem to have a negative connotation, perhaps because their name conjures up images of a horse spitting and choking on a too-tight mouthpiece. In fact, when used correctly, gag bits can be quite mild. I personally like them (and Wonder/Half-Wonder bits in particular) for teaching collection, flexion, and lateral movement to a green horse moving out of a snaffle. Gag bits are popular in the training pen, barrel racing and in gaited horse communities.

Physically, they are composed of the mouthpiece (often a chain or snaffle mouth), shanks of varying lengths, and a curb. What sets them apart from ordinary curb bits is that the mouthpiece is not fixed in place—it is free to move and slide about. This is the “gag action.” When pressure is applied via the reins, the bit rotates and the mouthpiece slides around the ring. When the curb has tightened as much as it can and/or the mouthpiece reaches the end of its track, increasing pressure is applied from the mouthpiece. Poll pressure is also applied as the curb mouthpiece slides and the bridle effectively shortens. This gag action gives the horse plenty of warning from the time the rider picks up the reins to the time harsh pressure is applied. It also allows for independent movement of the shanks, meaning you can “pick up” one side of the horses head without affecting the other—great for lateral movement.

English elevator bits are often used without a curb, making them similar to draw bits, which will be discussed later.

Draw Bits Draw bits consist of an unshanked bit with two rings through which a rope, cable, or curved piece of metal is run. The reins are attached to the end of this. A piece of leather, rope, cable, or wire (in order of increasing severity) is run behind the ears and attached to the cord running through the bit. When the reins are pulled back, the cord is also pulled, tightening the rope behind the ears (poll pressure) and lifting the bit. The bit slides along the cord until it can go no further. The bridle shortens, and increasing mouthpiece pressure is applied.

If the draw bit also has gag action and a soft ope is run behind the ears, this is a very mild bit and good transition from a snaffle, especially for teaching lateral movement. If the bit is more snaffle-like, has a harsh mouthpiece, or a cable or wire is run behind the ears, this bit can become quite severe. Draw bits work well on soft-mouthed horses, young horses, or those who don’t respond well to curb or noseband pressure.

Combination Bits Combination bits (sometimes called bitted hackamores) consist of a curb bit (almost always a gag bit) and a noseband made of leather, chain in tubing, rope, rawhide, bike chain, or twisted metal (in order of severity). They work best on seasoned horses who already know their jobs and do well with a little guidance, but do need some help steering and stopping. There’s a lot of action and a lot of different moving parts in a combo bit, so it

can scare off a young or inexperienced horse.

When pressure is applied, the action is the same as that of a curb or gag bit, but additional pressure comes from the noseband, which presses down on the face. Adjusted too low, the noseband can damage the nasal bones, but adjusted properly it encourages the horse to rate or sometimes drop its head. Most combo bits aren’t incredibly harsh, because the pressure is distributed across so many different places. However, those with severe nosebands, harsh mouthpieces, or long shanks can be quite brutal. Most horses don’t need all the extra action and control provided by these bits and will only be confused by all the stuff going on. Most combo bits should only be used by skilled, experienced riders on very well trained, broke horses.

Lifter Bits Lifter bits combine a tiny amount of gag action with a long purchase. They’re fairly harsh, particularly when combined with a severe mouthpiece, and are used for encouraging a broke horse to “lift” his nose—lateral movement. Lifter bits are popular with barrel racers who need to get their horse’s nose quickly during a run.

Bit Alternatives SidepullsA sidepull is often used as breaking equipment for a young horse, as it is extremely gentle. It works entirely off of direct rein movement, although a very soft-mouthed broke horse who knows how to neck rein would work fine in it, as well. A sidepull consists of two rings (to which the reins attach), a noseband, and a piece that loops underneath the jaw and holds everything in place. Rein pressure applied to one side pulls against the opposite side—hence the name. When the reins are pulled straight back, the noseband and underneath "curb" piece apply

light pressure. Collection, flexion, and lateral movement are difficult to achieve due to the mildness and simple action. Getting a good “whoa” may also be hard. Sidepulls are generally constructed of rope or rawhide, although chain and cable varieties exist and negate the mild effect. Sidepulls are sometimes combined with snaffle bits.

Hackamores The word “hackamore” in modern usage most commonly refers to a piece of equipment consisting of a noseband, varying styles of shanks, and a curb chain. When the reins are pulled back, the noseband puts pressure downward on the nose, the shanks rotate back, and the curb chain is tightened. Once again, longer and straighter shanks usually correspond to a harsher effect, and the construction of nosebands is the same as with the combination bit. Hackamores work well on horses who despise bits or need noseband pressure but not a full combo bit. Depending on the style, the hackamore may be very light or very harsh. It can have a lot of finesse and lateral control, or it can have none whatsoever—all hinging on the shank design. Most hackamores have quite a bit of “whoa” and most don’t have quite as much “pick up” or turn.  Due to their severity in some cases, hackamores can be downright dangerous or abusive in unskilled hands who don't understand how to communicate cues appropriately with this equipment.

BosalsThe original hackamores were made up of a noseband, called a bosal, a headstall part, called a hanger, sometimes, a piece that ties under the chin to help keep the hanger on, called a fiador, and a one piece long rein to be tied, called a mecate. There are no metal or shanks on this piece of equipment. In AQHA classes for Jr. Horses, the rules that state hackamores are allowed refer to this type, not a shanked, curbed hackamore. Reined Cow Horses are also ridden in this type of hackamore when they are young, between their snaffle and two rein stage, eventually going in a full bridle. The old Californio type trainers and hackamore men considered true hackamore riding a high art form. Bosals are often used as starting equipment or in the transition out of a snaffle bit.

Bitless BridlesThere are a variety of bitless bridles on the market. All work on varying principles of noseband or jaw pressure. Generally composed of nylon or leather, they work best for breaking colts or giving a seasoned horse a break from a bit. They do have limited control due to a lack of severity, and finesse and collection may be difficult to achieve.