STATEMENT OF CASE FOR

HANDMADtr CARPET OF BHADOHI

Woollen hand knotted carpets are traditional expoft products of India. As a

product group, they constitute one of the major items of the lndian Handicrafts

production. The industry is concentrated in the northem states of India i.e. Jammu

& Kashmir, Punjab and Uttar Pradesh. Historical records indicate that the first

Indian woolen hand knotted carpets reached the west in the seventeenth century as

part of the colonial trade. From the middle of the nineteenth century onwards

Indian carpets made a name for themselves at major Westem exhibitions. Since

the nineteen sixties demand for carpets boomed in westem markets and the

commercial possibilities of carpet weaving attracted European and American

importers.

Traditional carpets are traded from stocks. Recently, however, the importers have

introduced business practices dictated by importers' orders and tastes ofconsumers.

Bhadohi are the largest Hand made carpet weaving clusters in India. 3.2 Million

Peoples are engaged in it and now they are one of the biggest cottage based

industries the total Export is 2290 crores in 2007- 2008 which is approximately

75o/o of total of India carpet export. It is strange to say that the industry Bhadohi

and its adjoining areas have no production or availability ofvarious raw materials

used in carpet making but these are the places where the carpet industry was

founded and flourished tremendously.

(According to AICMA reporting 2008)

The man who has been blessed by the God with creative instincts, responses to the

urge ofhis soul and creates a thing. The same spirit is consistent with this industrv

also .It is an artisan who gives life and stability to an Art.

The origin ofthe Indian carpets-

) Pre Vedic era :

The history ofwool is not just related and restricted with the modem era ofour country but it has great significance in our ancient culture relating the

Mohanjodaro and Harappa .In Mohanjodaro and Harappa sheep breeding was the

major work done by the peasants. The Harappa culture was so advances that the wool

l.

2.

3.

^

15

produced from sheep were even woven to make woolen cloths which not only

insulated them from the cold but also commenced an innovative culture.

"Cotton was first produced by the the Indus valley people. Spun and woven

cotton and wool dresses were used by them." @y Edgar Thorpe, written in

Person year book 2004, by Pearson education Pvt Ltd)

"The word "oon" find its root in Sanskrit where if is pronounced as Dorna

meaning fleece of the sheep. The hymns of the Rig Veda written around 200 B.C

refer to wide spread use of wool & articles made from wool particularly shawls.

It has been revealed by the mohanjadaro excavations that during the Indus

valley civillisation people woven some of earliest textiles known to mankind and

some of them were woven from wool.tt

(Reference By R.R Gupta, Natiolal Awardee for export in l97l - 1972 in the

Publication Of AICMA on its silver Jubilee Celebration on March 12,1986

(Attachment No.I)

Ilarrapan peoples used cotton and woollen cloth probably hand stitched as

needles are discovered in the sites. (Reference taken By Dr N.Shaikh

Mastan,Reader Department of History ,Banglore university, book foundations ofIndian Culture, National Psychological Corporation)

Vedic era:

During this period the Aryans were fully settled in the Gangetic plains and the

evolution of the different Vedas like Rig, Yajur and Sam- Veda had taken place.

During this period the Rishi and Munies used kusha and oon for the Asani which is

used in various rituals like Yagya, Jap and Anusthan .The women of this era made

Gucchas of oon which used to cover themselves. Later they took place as woolen

cloth, but the persons of this era was not familiarized with the stitching process .The

wool (oon) was useful from avoiding cold and producing the heat and during the

winter seasons oon was popularly used by the people ofthis era. The epic Ramayana

also elaborates about Galicha when lord Ram came to Ayodhya after defeating

I)emon Ravan.

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) The later Vedic Period:

The history of carpet weaving is deep rooted with Indian significance

because it not only represents the glorious art culture but also represents the

secularism ofour country, Different people from ancient times was engaged in this

beautiful art and represented their era with different designs pictures and weaving

style. The excavations from the Harappa & Mohanjodaro show that woven cloths

were used by the people ofthat culture.

5. " Woollen carpets were known in India as early as 500 B.C. References to woven

mats and floor coverings can be found in ancient and medieval Indian literature. There

seems to be no documentary evidence to prove the antiquity of the Indian carpet.

Excavations by Aurel Stein in Eastem Turkestan revealed evidence of Indian

merchandise, important among them being some unique wooden documents. One ofthem is an oblong tablet, dated in the ninth year of King Jitroghavarsham, relating to

commercial transactions by a certain Buddhaghosha attached to a Buddhist Monk

Anandasena. In this tablet some household articles are enumerated, among them, wool

weaving appliances and "Namdis." This is accepted as the earliest reference to what

we know now as Namdas, made ofa sort of felt from pressed wool."

(Reference taken from Kamladevi Chatopadhya.Founder- Chairman, All India

Handicraft Board,Govt.of India, book- Indian carpets and floor coverings, 1966,

on page number l) (Attachment No.2)

6- During the fourth century AD, the Hindu Gupta Empire (c.320-550) came into

being in northern and central India, Schools were created, and arts and sciences were

fostered to such extend that, in this field the Guptas were in advance ofthe rest ofthe

world. This was the golden age of India. The technique created by crystal arts,

astronomy and mathematics flourished equally under the patronage of the Gupta's

Sanskit literature became widespread ad contributed in no small measure in the

molding of the Hindu spirit. Art was first and foremost religious. It set out to express

the transcendence ofthe Divine in concrete form. Two artistic trends coexisted with

each other; the Brahmanic majesty; and tho Buddhist school, which portrayed a

divinity whose radiant continence conveyed peace and mercy

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7- While Akbar introduced the art ofthe pile carpet weaving in silk and finest wool

with floral, animal and bird designs, the great tradition was continued by his

successors Jahangir and especially the beauty-loving Shah Jehan during whose reign

these carp€ts were renowned even outside India.

(Reference taken from Kamladevi Chatopadhya,Founder- Chairman, All India

Handicraft Board,Gort.of India,book- Indian carpets and floor coverings, 1966,

on page number 2) (Attachment No.3)

Carpet weaving is one ofthe oldest industries in India. The history of carpet weaving

in India dates back to the l6th century (1580 AD), when Mughal Emperor Akbar

brought some carpet weavers to his palace in Agra..

During the Mutiny of 1857 the carpet weavers fled from Agra to a village called

Madhosingh between Bhadohi and Mirzapur and started carpet weaving on a very

small scale there. Later with the support from the then Maharaja of Banaras, the art ofcarpet weaving flourished in this part oflndia.

"Hand made carpet industry is a traditional Craft said to be started in india in

or about 1400 A.D. The craft is purely a cottage industry & the local words used

in it are still almost the same used centuries ago."

(Reference By Mr. Jugul Kishore Khanna, Exporter, joined carpet trade in 1942,

from the Publication of AICMA on its silver Jubilee Celebration on March 12

1986) (Attac h me nt N o.4 )

The early designs of these carpets were naturally pattern from persian, since the

inspiration was from Persia and the original weavers from that land. Thus the

traditional designs largely took on Central Asian characteristics; By and by the

houses ofthe nobility also ran looms with expert weavers preparing special designs to

suit the individual fancy and varied tastes ofthese patrons.

8. The most important proof of the history of Bhadohi carpet belt is given in the

Gazetter of 1883 named Stasticial Descriptive and historical Accoutrt of the

North-Western Provinces of India.VOL XIV, Part II Mirzapur, Compiled By

W.GRIERSON JACKSO\ Bengal Civil Services. The page 100 of the gazette

1883 elaborates the averages daily wages ofthe carpet weavers by comparing the year

1856- 1860 and 1880. Page 159, reflects the carpet weaving as the major trade ofthe

18

Bhadohi belt the gazetteer also shows the socio economic condition ofthe weavers at

that time.(Anachment No.s -Paqes No.l00, I 59)

The page number 216 justifies the type of carpet produced that time in Bhadohi belt

with its export value-

The statement on page 213 is like ----"There are three industries still remaining, the manufacturers of carpets shellac,

and brass ware, and these at present comprise pretty nearly the whole

commercial activity ofthe city. The carpets are of the well-known oriental thickpile pattern. Most are woven in looms of rude construction at the villages ofGhosea (q.v) and Madho Singh (q.v) in Bhadohi,but latterly many looms have

been set up in the city. The origin of art has not been ascertained, but it is

reported not to have assumed any importance until some 60 or 70 years ago. The

taste of the day for Indian decorative art has given at the same time, it is to be

feared, to some lowering (except among the best lirms) of the standard ofexcellence. The trade is now (1882) in a very flourishing condition, the monthly

sales often amounting in value to Rs 18,000 or Rs 20,000. Although the generality

the carpets made here are somewhat loose in texture, snd of coarse

workmanship and more staring pattern than the best efforts of convict labour,

yet good work can be obtained for good prices, and for Rs 6 or Z a square yard

very excellent and artistic carpets are procurable. There are at present (lgg2)

three merchants (one European and two natives ) engaged in trade, and between

them and the actual artisans men , grant advances, and intercept much of profit.The weavers work by contract and not at daily rates. In l88l- 82, there were

estimated to be 25 such firms and 200 artisans, E5 of the lirst and ll5 of the

second class. The value of the annual outturn was estimated at half a lakh ofRupees.( Mr Fuller"s report on the railway- borne TraIIic of the North-Western

Provinces and Oudh for lE81- 82, p.38)'

(Attachment No.5 -Pages No.2l 3) -

Other important proof of the origin ofthe Bhadohi carpet region can be found in the

district gazetteers such as the uttar Pradesh district gazetteers of the varanasipublished by the government oflndia in 1965, on page number 146 and 147 it isclearly mentioned about the evolution ofthe carpet industry ofthe Bhadohi withits export potential. It is clearly stated in the district Gazette that this cottage based

industry is only livelihood of the carpet weavers and about 40,000 carpet weavers are

19

engaged on 4000 looms.during I 965 the industry has touched the landmark of6 crores

ofannual tumover .(Attachment No.6 - Pages No.116, )47)

9- In the nineteenth and ea.ly twentieth centuries, an extended belt of commercial

production came to be established in the Bhadohi region of Uttar pradesh. Itspecialized in the mass production of all types pile carpets, predominantly woolen,

plain embossed and designed carpets, in qualities ranging from 30 to 300 knots per

square inch. Carpet industry provides the finest example ofhow a domestic industry

practiced at home can be transformed to a full-grown handicraft industry. From the

safe confines of home where the carpet was weaved jointly by all the family

members, this beautiful piece of handicraft has found its way to bigger countries

where it is now produced on a mass scale.

l0- Bhadohi Region in Uttar Pradesh represents the most important area of carpet

weaving in the country as it has the largest concentration ofthe carpet weavers. The

tradition ofthe carpet weaving in this belt at least four hundred years ago. This area

specializes in all kinds of carpet production with fine qualities and account for bulk

production in India. The carpet weaving in this Bhadohi cluster is scattered generally

all parts of Bhadohi district, But it also amalgamate some part of Mirzapur, Varanasi,

Ghazipur and Chandauli district.

"The true regional centre of the carpet trade is the small town to Bhadohi. close

to Benares.Since its beginning in the eighteen century, this industry has

progressed steadily and has expanded greatly.'. try E.Gans-Ruedin,Book _ IndianCarpets, publishers Thames and Hudson, year 1984 on page number 59)

.(Attachment No.7 -Pages No.59)

l1- "Perhaps it was during the late 19s century that one Mr. Brownford noticed those

making carpets and realized its economic viability and decided to establish a company

under the name and style of M/S. E. Hill and co. in the small village of Khamaria. It was

followed by Mr. A. Tellery who got his factory established in Bhadohi. His eldest son Mr.

otto Tellery was one of the founder members of the All India carpet Manufacturers

Association and was the first President of the organization. Next to these two gentlemen,

a group of three Europeans formed a company by the name of IWs. obeettee. The group

comprised of Messrs. oklay, Bowden and rallor the abbreviation of these three names is

obeettee, Fortunately Mr. oklay is still alive and the *riter heartly pray for his long life.

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Next to these three factories sponsored by Britishers was the first Indian Master

Peer Mohammad who initiated the venture of Carpet Export from Bhadohi. It was

followed by Mr. M.A. Samad who started export by the name of IWS. M.A. Samad & Co.

In the year 1925 the establishment of M/S. Abbas Wazir firm came into existence.

Subsequently Haji Azimullah appeared on the horizon. His firm IWs. Mohammad

Ibrahim Azimullah is still doing very good business. They were joined by another series

of exporters like. The Hindustan Carpet Co. owned by Mr. K.L. Gupta and brothers, M/S.

Bhadohi Carpet Company, established by Mr. Jairam Gupta, tWs. Mobarak Ali Khan and

Sons, and IWs. Raheem & Sons. This list of early manufacturers and exporters has now

swollen up to well over five hundred.

The history of the industry will remain incomplete if the precious contributions of early

artisans are not reflected. When Mr. A. Tellery decided to establish a factory in Bhadohi,

he brought with him persons like Haji Mohammad Zahoor Khan and Munshi Abdul Ahad

Khan from Mirzapur. Haji Mohammad Zahoor Khan, whose grandsons are regarded as

pioneer exporters, introduced this handicraft by demonstrating carpet weaving.

Throughout the prominent cities and countries of United Kingdom in the first decade of20'n century. Munshi Adul Ahad Khan was a distinguished carpet designer. He presented

the beautiful s).nthesis of Indo-Persian designs. Today his grandsons, viz Mr. Mohammad

Mustafa Khan & Brothers are one ofthe leading manufacturers and exporters ofBhadohi.

Their firm IWs. A. Aziz Khan & Sons is well known to the carpet world.

Much has been said about the past ofthe carpet industry. Now it seems essential to depict

the recent past. After 1960 with the emergence of sudden diversification and expansion

the carpet industry has made rapid growth in export. In the year 1951 Mr. A.R. Ansari ofIWs. Abbas Wazir P. Ltd. was the first person who visited West Germany in search of anew market for Indian carpets. Till then U.K. was the main importer country. It was,

howevero in the year 1964 when Mr. Ansari could be successful in securing export orders

from west Germany for Berber type of Carpets henceforth was being. manufactured in

Morocco. This orientation brought by Mr. A.R. Ansari was further strengthened by Mr.Kantilal unadcath, who introduced Persian qualities and designs in Bhadohi-Mirzapur

carpet belt, opened new avenues and helped in Boosting up export of Indian carpets. ..

( Refrences taken by the Publication of AICMA on its silver Jubilee celebration on

March 12 r9E6).(Attachment No.8 *Pages No.55, 56) -

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12. Bhadohi and its adjoining areas have no production or availability of various raw

materials used in carpet making but these are the placas where the carpet industry was

founded and flourished tremendously. It will not sound strange if we have a deep study of

any industry. As a matter of fact, the man who has been blessed by the God with creative

instincts, responses to the urge of his soul and creates a thing. The same spirit is

consistent with this industry also .It is an artisan who gives life and stability to an Art.

13: Geographical area of production of Handmade Carpet of Bhadohi:

Name of District: Varanasi, Mirzapur, Sant Ravidas Nagar Bhadohi, Allahabad,

Sonbhadra, Kousambi, Jaunpur, Ghazipur, Chandauli (Annexure 3)

"The map of major area of production of Bhadohi region is also given in a

international reputed book "The Oriental Carpets" by Mr.P.R.J ford, at page

number 344' (Attachment No.9 *Pages No.344)

14- One prominent woven carpet is hand knotted carpet. Such type of carpets is

manufactured on a vertical wooden loom. Thick cotton and woolen yarn used in warp

ends while wool is used in width direction.

For manufacturing of hand knotted carpets, vertical wooden looms are used.

These looms remain equipped with double layer of warp ends separator rods and

platforms.

15- Bhadohi hand made carpets are inspired by the classical Indian and oriental motifs

transformed to the most contemporary style. Bright glowing colors, hand-knotting

technique allowing high number ofknots per square inch and exquisite design sense have

made Bhadohi Hand knotted woolen carpets a cherished product in a home decor apart

from the fact that they spread warmth.

Their design and color schemes have the artists' own independent logic. The art ofweaving carpets has percolated through generations and the Indian craftsmen have been

creating the greatest of specimen since the medieval period. Bhadohi, Mirzapur,

Khamaria, Ghosiq Varanasi are influenced with the Buddhist and Tibetan motifs,

geometric mixed with floral.

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Late Prime Minister of India - Smt. Indira Gandhi inaugurated an exhibition ofcarpets at Bhadohi on 13th March 1976, sponsored by AICMA with Sri D.p.

Chattopadhya, Commerce Minister, Government of India,Sri N.D Tiwari .ChiefMinister of U.P., Sri V.P Singh. A huge variety of carpets are shown in this

exhibition.

(Reference from the Publication of AICMA on its silver Jubilee celebration on

March 12 1986\ (Attachment No.l0)

16- Production process of Handmade / Iland knotted Carpets

The production process ofcarpet has changed over the course of time. Fortunately

the ancient method of production has set up the platform for modem era that opens a new

horizon to boost up this craft with different colors and styles

(a) Production components -

Carpet is s)monymous with luxury and warmth. While choosing a carpet the first thing

one usually considers is the color and then the style. Fact is that the material ofthe carpet

should be given enough importance. carpet materials are decided considering the location

purpose of the carpet and the circumstances like presence of kids, and pets etc. The

details of this are attached in the Annexure 4.

Wool

Wool offers a deep, rich appearance.

. It has a luxurious hand.

. It is extremely durable.

. It is naturally stain resistant.

. It has excellent piling quality.

Colour infusion

colors fascinate and when they are blended with material and designs, they acquire

lively radiance. Indian carpets are renowned for their exotic colors. At the beginning

ofthe 20th century, nature was the most important source of perfect dyes subtle and

attractive colors. Madder, which grows almost everywhere, was the most important

colorant of vegetable origin. For example the brown color is abstracted from the

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Babur tree or Walnut. Green is abstracted from the double dying ofindigo and plumy

granate ( Anar in Hindi). The details ofthis are attached in the Annexure 5 & 4.

Traditional Instruments used Instruments

. Punja Beater

. Kainchi Scissor

. Churra Knife

. Nap A graduated gauze to

measure the pile height

. Dam Changing the warp shed

. Gulla Comb for warp distribution

The more details ofthese types of instruments are attached in the Annexure 5.

CarDet Constructions

. Tana

. Kati

Kath

Sastoon

Tang

Pata

Jori

Cotton warp

Woollen yam

The details ofcarpet constructions are attached in the Annexure 5.

Looms

Looms

Pillar on which loom rests

For stretching the warp

Wooden bench on which weavers sit

Rod used to avoid unfolding ofwoven cary)et on

Loom

(b) Production nrocess-

(i) Making of wool (oon) yarn (kati)-

The first step includes the making of kati or wool yam through a series ofprocedure followed with different methods

l. Mixing and blending of the wool ( wool generally comes from New Zealand ,

Australia and in India from Rajasthan), mixing and blending is done as per the

requirement ofthe product ,e.g. l00%o Indian wool or 50olo Indian +50% imported

wool from or any other combination ofblend .

2. Dusting process- in this process the dust existing in wool is removed from the

pure wool through dusting machines combined with exhaust fans.

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3. Batching process- the batching oil (an oil extracted from the raw vegetables and

flowers) is mixed with the wool so that to make wool slippery and fit forstraightening the wool fibre.

4. carding / combing of the woor - in this process the combing machine acts likecomb to make the wool fibre fully silky and single thread will open and fit for a

wool ball.

5. Gilling process - this process is done to make the wool fibre silkier, fine and open

able, in gilling machine the one wool ball is rotate for 4-5 times so that the weisht

ofwool ball is reduces and become viable for the riting.

6. Rubbing- rubbing is done twice for increasing the strength of the wool ball , inrubbing the leather strip inscribed in the machine acts as a sheet & rubb the

thread (the leather used are generally made ofthe animal lather but now synthetic

leathers are also used)

7. Spinning - it is used for drafting the wool thread and followed by doubling.

8. Reeling - the reeling is done in hank form lacchi or pola

(ii) Washine of the wool hanld lacchi

. Washing ofthe yam is done on scouring machine, in scouring machine there are

different chambers basically 3/6 tanks full of 3 different types of soap as per

requirement ( the soap is ofgood quality like ezee which is fit for wool washing)

and 2 tank ofwater.

. Squaring process is done manually for adjusting and straightening the wool

. Hydro extractor - is used for the squeezing the water from wool

. Sun drying-is normally used for drying the woolen yam .Once dried it is packed.

Dvine orocess (Kati Ranged )

The first process is dressing and loading of wool according to its capacity by

manually or through crane machines.

& then the loaded wool is put into dying chamber through manual (traditional) or

dying machine using manually or through crane depends upon the capacity.

Azo free chemical dyes are used from renowned Co's like Sandoz (Clarion),

BASF, and ICI etc.

The water from the wool is extracted through the hydro extractor.

By sun drying the remaining moisture of the wool is extracted our .

(iii)

a

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Natural colours used in dving-

Sine 20s century there are so many nelv systems of dyeing of wool and woolen yam.

After World War II, there is a boom in economic growth and social concept with the help

of automatic machines and new technology. This has affected the dyeing ofthe wool and

the woolen yam. Dyeing is the first and the foremost step towards making the carpets. In

other words, for a company which produced carpet it can be denoted as the birth of the

carpets.

Even today this is an important issue that dye-masters will not reveal their dyeing secret.

The vegetables and spices that are used a secret to any dyeing master.

The dyeing ofthe wool is that is done in the yam and never in the piece. The yarn before

dyeing is made into a"Latit'or hank. This process is being practiced since old age. A

few techniques to produce different colour from vegetables are described below

Red (Lal): The wool is first boiled in a solution of"Reh" (alkaline of nature and

found in open fields). Then the yarn is taken out and washed and dried. Bareley flour is

first cooked and put into an earthen jar. Lac ground into powder was well mixed with the

flour and the jar containing the mixture closed for two or three days. The

Jar is placed so as to face the sun. After the process of fermentation starts the hanks ofyam are put in thejar and closed again.

After completion ofthis process, the yarn is taken out and washed in the river and

dried in the sun. Then the yam is boiled in a solution of turmeric and a peculiar kind ofacid for a short time. The yam thereafter is taken out, washed and dried. This produces a

very fine and fast red colour.

Pink with a Liqhter Shade Red and Yellow (Malla) :

To produce a pink or claret colour, the yam after being taken out of the fermenting

flour and Lac (insect dyes) was put into a solution of"Lodh" and dried raw mangoes and

boiled for two or three hours. Then the yam is taken out, washed and dried and the colour

pink is bom.

Strawberrv (Maila) :

To achieve Dye this coloul the yam after being washed is put into a splint

solution of flour and Madder which has been previously being used for red and pink

colours, The yeam is taken out after two or three days washed and dried in the same way

as the pink. This has also a fast red colour.

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Gold (Gehra Sona) :

The wollen yam is washed in water and immersed in an infusion of ,,pomigrenade

Rind" outer shell. The wool is taken out after two or three days and beaten on a stone slab

and left to dry in the sun, then the yam was boiled in a solution of ,.Iodh" and immersed

into a solution of "Rah" ("Re Ka Kharr') to produce a fine gold colour. This is also very

fast golden colour.

RAWMATERIAL:

The raw material for the production of natural dyes is mostly vegetable mater such as

seeds, leaves, root, bark or the heartwood of the plants. Some of the materials

recommended for use for the production of natural dyes for use in the dyeing of textile

substrates are eiven in Table- l .

(tD Designing: The designing is also a crucial component of the designingDrocess3

The usual procedure adopted by a carpet-designer (naksheband) is as follows:

having drawn up his design, he transfers it to graph paper on which each square

represents a single knot. Then he divides the paper into varying sizes, depending on

whether the pattem is intended for the central medallion or for a part of a repeat pattem.

These sheets ofpaper are then passed to the knotting workshop,

S.No. BOTAIIIALNAME COMMONNAME PART OF TIIE PLAIITAcacia Catechu Cutch Heartrvood

2. Acacia Nilotica Acasia Bark

J. Mallotus Philppensis Kamala Flower deposits

Rerocarpus Santanilas Red Sandal wood Hearhvood

). Punica Granatum Pomegranate fruit rind Rind

o. Quercus Infectoria Gall Nuts Fruit

7. Rheum Emodi Himalayan Rhubab Roots

8. Rubia Cardifolia Indian Madder Wood, Roots

9. Rumex Maritmus Colden Dock Seeds

10. Terminalia Chebula Myrobalan Fruit

ll Indigofena tinctoria Indigo Leaves

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The traditional designs used in Bhadohi and all over the India -

. The lndian love of nature, of animals, birds fling or on treos, etc., so evident in

Indian paintings, naturally found their way into carpets. There are all-over designs

ofscrolling stems, leaves and finely drawn giant flower heads within a panel head.

A lot ofcare is lavished on the lion mask border. All oriental designs are supposed

to have some hidden meaning, such as: Circle=Etemity; Zigzag=water and

lightning; Swastika:guiding light in darkness; Meandering line=continuity of life;

Tree=bounty. Normally a carpet had to convey the two symbols of etemity and

transitional change.

tby Kamladevi Chatopadhya,Founder- Chairman, All India HandicraftBoard,Govt.of India,book- Indian carpets and floor coverings, 1966, on page

number 6) (Atlachment No.I l)

(v)

Traditional method of weavins

The loom is upright with moveable horizontal timbers. The weaving is sometimes

described as the enrichment ofa web. The warps run vertically and the wefts horizontally.

short bits of woolen yam are knotted about two adjacent warp cords in such a manner

that their two ends hang out upon the upper surface of the web. The work starts at the

bottom and moves upwards and as the knotting is completed that.portion is rolled up

around the weavers' lower cross-beam. After each row of knots, cotton yam which forms

the weft is passed through and acts as a binder. They yam used in each knot has to have

sufficient length to be able to hold the warp together and therefore it becomes necessary

to clip the pile ifthe fine details of the pattern are to come into clear focus. That is whythe finer the design, the closer the shearing. The ends are finished with a kind of tapestry

weave, khilim-weave as it is called, to prevent the knots from slipping loose, while the

outer warps at the sides are reinforced with overcastting. Finally the end fringes made up

from the free ends ofthe warp cords are plaited after the caxpet has been detached fromthe crossbeams.

28

Detailed process is as follows:

WARPING OR MAKING TANA-This is done outside the loom house; cotton yam is used to make the Tana as per

the quality of carpet to be woven. As said earlier wool as well as silk is also used at times

for making Tana . After the Tana is made it is transformed on the loom

Gulla making -Gulla making is done to keep the warp at a proper distance fiom each other and

to make the warping go forward and backward, this is also part ofweaving process called

Dum (there is no English word for Dum).

Carpet weaving is done through a looping ofthe wool around cotton warp, after

every row the thich weft tharri and thin weft latchi is passed . The looping/knotting is

done by keeping the design in front or back ofthe loom whereby the square in the graph

Purpose of carpet washing is to get a

and thecarpet that is totally clean; is soft to feel and is pleasantly shiny and lustrous

colors' have a depth. In washing process, special effects can also be created

Soft detergents, shampoo and neutralizer are used in the process of washing. It is

ensured that the fibre and pile is not damaged because ofexcessive use ofdetergents.

Gachhai (Disentansline)

High pile density carpets have an inherent element in their pile formation. At the time ofweaving the pile yam is knotted round a part of warp ends but the loose ends of pile form

a'V', rows ofsuch 'vs. of pile in the carpet makes the pile entangled and it distort the look

of the design making it look fuzzy. Ghochai is a simple job done on the carpet to

straighten the pile. It is like combing one's hair. A pointed lever is pushed through the

adjacent pile rows. The shape and angle of the tip of the lever and the direction ofmovements are vital for a good Guchai. It is a painstaking job but very necessary for the

final finish. It also reduces load on Kalam Berai at later stases.

typically represents one knot.

Dhulai) of carDets

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(vii) The linishins process involves -l. Clipping, 2 washing, 3 clipping again 4. berai ( sorting ofthe colors knot by

knot with the help ofwooden pencil like object) 5. Stretching ofthe carpet to

make it straight 6. Edge binding (Pechai) 7. Fringing ( Chara Gachai): The

end fringes are given a proper shape ;

Normally carpets are intended to be rectangular i.e. the adjacent sides should be

straight and perpendicular to one another. To get near perfect rectangular shape, the

carpets are stretched on strong steel frames with the help of looks and twine and the back

is wefted.

Clipping is very important in the looks of the carpet. It's on art in itself. perfect

clipping takes long time and is expensive. It gives clarity to design as very pile and is

made visible. It adds to the perfect feel as all inegularities are clipped offand the fingers

do not feel any bumps in carpets mass.

After clipping the sorting is done. In this process they will separate each pile ofwoolen yam so that the design becomes clearer. with traditional designs there might be

embossing they will cut the contours between the different items knotted in the carpets.

Kalam berai, if needed, forms part of clipping. It is necessitated when a pile yarn

is not straight and parallel to other pile yam and the clarity ofdesign is maned. The pile

yarns not in place are mechanically brought in proper position with the help of a sharp

wooden kalam and the carpet clipped again. The all details of production process are

attached in the Annexure 5.

l7- Uniqueness -

(i) Basic features of this region-

The Bhadohi region in the state of Uttar pradesh produces maximum number ofcarpets in India. This region can produce carpets of varied designs and qualities. Majorityofthe caryret weavers are established in this area. The growth and the spread ofthe carpet

industry can be partly athibuted the caste and village system unique to India. This

industry is primarily rural in nature with minimal requirements. From the beginning, this

industry had been dominated by the Muslims & practiced besides agriculture. Most of the

households had a loom at its disposal wherein the family members could weave a carFret

as and when they had spare time. This practice is in use from ancient times. over timethis industry has become more modemized though in essence it still remains the same.

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The urbanization of this industry along with its export worthiness has seen the

spread of Industry. The world famous hand knotted carpets are woven in the remote

villages of Uttar Pradesh. The carpet weaver has grown as a creator weaving poetry ofmyriad designs, with every knot ties. A carpet weaver's skills are his own and the design

he evolves are from his mind to translate into beautiful form with the helo of wool and

silk.. The specialty ofBhadohi carpets lies in its

) exquisite designs

F with natural traditional motifs,

) subtle elegance,

) attractive color combinations

F Excellentworkmanshio

(ii) The Design patterni

one of the key elements in determining the quality and price of the carpet is its design

and the character of design. For many years, Indian design represented largely floralpattems, arabesques, rhomboids, and the occasional animal pattem, with varying degrees

ofstylization.. The carpet-weaving tradition, in addition, has been subjected to a series ofvicissitudes depending on the patronage and market demands. Thus, while names like

Kashan, Tabriz, Bokarq Mir, and Lichi are an integral part of the nomenclature ofthe _

Bhadohi carpet industry. Traditional floral designs, the tree of life, birds and

animals, and motifs from Indian architectural monuments are commonly used inBhadohi carpet industry. A traditional Bhadohi pattem usually comprises a choice ofmotifs from among roses, lotus, poppies, myrtle, henn4 narcissus tilies and the tree-of_

life. The details ofthis are attached in the Annexure 6.( The versatility of the carpet weavers in this area is welt known. They can weave

carpets of any design, though there was tendency towards using persian designs. The

washing of carpets made them clean and lustrous."(by D.N Saraf,Ex.D.C

ITANDICRAF-T.GovI of rndia, book- Indian crafts Development and potential,vikas

publishing house Pvt Ltd,New Delhi,l982, on page number 200) (Attachment No.I2)

(iii) India's largest carpet producing centre -Surprisingly, 90 per cent of the country's carpet production comes from the Bhadohi

region in u.P. The carpet tradition in this belt, which has tndia's largest weaver

concentration. The industry, which is export-oriented, has taken the country to the

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position of being the third largest carpet exported in the world. Germany is the largest

buyer, followed by the USA, Switzerland, Great Britain, Australia and Canada. In table

below the growth in the exports of Indian carpets is indicated. All tlpes of carpet are

manufactured in this region. The details ofthis are attached in the Annexure 6.

"Uttar Pradesh has the greatest concentration of carpet weavers and largest number

of production with Bhadohi, Khamaria, Mirzapur and places around leading in

carpet weaving. It seems at one time to have offered high class carpets in fine

vegetable dyes. At the time of Paris Exhibition of l867,Mirzapur carpets won

acclaim." ( Reference from Kamladevi Chatopadhya,Founder- Chairman, All India

Handicraft Board,Govt.of India,book- Indian carpets and floor coverings, 1966, on

page number 16) (Attachment No.I3)

(iv) Weaving style -THE WARPS A}ID WEFTS:

An oriental hand knotted carpet consists of hundreds of thousands of loops of wool

individually ties by hand around the warp strings (those are stretched lengthwise on the

loom) and firmly anchored by the weft strings (those running crosswise).

A process by which what would otherwise be simply a woven blanket is the conversion

which has often been suggested as the motivation underlying the invention of the pile

carpet thousands of years ago. It is the way the weaver arranges these three elements;

knots, warps and wefts that determine the exquisite weave of the carpet by which as

carpets' origin can usually be determined.

The carpets manufactured in this region are double wefted while in other areas it isgenerally single wefted. Here all weavers are the master weavers because they weave

by seeing the design graphs while other follows the talim process.

Knots-There are several different knotting styles that are.used in this region but These

knotting styles can not always be recognized by looking at the back or the front of the

carpet.

" Jufti Knots:

In earlier times, when weaver worked for very cheap wages, all knots were

tied on a pair of adjacent warp threads. Any attempt at economy in labour by tying a knot

on two adjacent pairs of warp (for example 4) threads, in other words weaving ajufti, was

lowered upon.

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Today the industry in India is more reserved in its condemnation. A jufti is

still condemned if the fabric is allowed to go weak, but if an adequate thickness of pile

yarn is used, the weaving of some jufti knots in a carpet enables the weaver to bring down

the cost while maintaining the quality ofthe carpet.

Bhadohi Weave:

This is a common weave in the Bhadohi region for all type of carpets. It is economical in

the use ofthe yam. The base fabric (mostly cotton) is thin and pliable. Each knot appears

as two points on the back ofthe carpet.

Ghirodes knots:

It is formed on two adjacent warp threads. A short piece ofyam or in practice the end ofa

long piece which is afterwards cut offlies across and in front ofthesq and its ends each

pass round behind one ofthe warp threads and emerge together between then.

The Sehna knots-

This knot is also tied on two warps threads but is less symmetrical than Ghirodes. The

yam completely encircles one warp thread, one end comes to the front between the warp

threads , while the other end passes behind the second and to front outside . As seen by

the weaver the completely encircled warp thread may be either the right or left one ofthepair."The details of knots are attached in the Annexure-6

Reference from the thesis titled '(An International Management Approach to

the production Process and Investment Opportunities of Indian Hand Knotted

Carpets" as done by Mr.Patrick A.J.P.M. Janssens in the March, 1993 (Attachment

No.14 )

Methods of weaving

The loom is upright with moveable horizontal timbers. The weaving is sometimes

described as the enrichment ofa web. The warps run vertically and the wefts horizontally.

Short bits of woolen yam are knotted about two adjacent warp cords in such a manner

that their two ends hand out upon the upper surface of the web. The work starts at th€

bottom and moves upwards and as the knotting is completed that portion is rolled up

around the weavers' lower cross-beam. Alter each row of knots, cotton yam which forms

the weft is passed through and acts as a binder. The yam used in each knot has to have

suffrcient length to be able to hold the warp together and therefore it becomes necessary

to clip the pile ifthe fine details ofthe pattem are to come into clear focus. That is why

the finer the design, the closer the shearing. The ends are finished with a kind of taDestry

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(v)

weave, khilim-weave as it is called to prevent the knots from slipping loose, while the

outer warps at the sides are reinforced with overcastting. Finally the end fringes made up

from the free ends ofthe warp cords are plaited after the carpet has been detached from

the cross beams."

"In the Bhadohi region , Berai or penciling is done on almost every carpet before

final shearing or clipping."

(Refrences taken by the Publication Of AICMA on its silver Jubilee Celebration on

March 12 1986)

The details ofthis are attached in the Annexure 6

The natural dyes are prepared in this region itself by using different methods -

Natural dyes are obtained from natural sources such as vegetable matter, minerals

or insects. These dyes find use in the coloration of textiles, food, drugs and cosmetics.

Small quantitities ofdyes are also used in coloration of paper, leather, shoe polish, wood,

cane, candles, and such other products requiring coloration.

Colors fascinate and when they are blended with material and designs, they acquire

lively radiance.Bhadohi carpets are renowned for their exotic colors. At the beginning ofthe 20th century, nature was the most important source of perfect dyes subtle and

attractive colors. Madder, which grows almost everywhere, was the most important

colorant of vegetable origin. For example the brown colour is abstracted from the Babur

tree or Walnut. Green is abstracted from the double dying of indigo and plumy granate (

Anar in Hindi). The natural colours are obtained through di{ferent traditional methods in

the Bhadohi district for example- to obtain red---

"Red (Lal): The wool is first boiled in a solution of ,.Reh" (alkaline of nature and

found in open fields). Then the yam is taken out and washed and dried. Barely flour isfirst cooked and put into an earthen jar. Lac ground into powder was well mixed with the

flour and thejar containing the mixture closed for two or three days, The

Jar is placed so as to face the sun. After the process of fermentation starts the hanks ofyam are put in thejar and closed again.

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After completion ofthis process, the yam is taken out and washed in the river and

dried in the sun. Then the yam is boiled in a solution of turmeric and a peculiar kind ofacid for a short time. The yarn thereafter is taken out, washed and dried. This produces a

very fine and fast red colour."

Reference from the thesis titled "An International Management Approach to

the production Process and Investment Opportunities of Indian lland Knotted

Carpets" as done by Mr.Patrick A.J.P.M. Janssens in the March, 1993 (Attachment

No.lS )

Like this all the important Colours are extracted through different traditional

methods which is given in annexure 5

The following properties are often considered to be the advantages of natural dyes. -. They are obtained from renewable resources.

r No health hazards, sometimes they act as health cure.

e Practically no or mild chemical reactions are involved in there preparation.

o No disposal problems.

. They are unsophisticated and harmonized with nature.

Lot of creativity is required to use these dyes judiciously. The details of this are

attached in the Annexure5

(vD MotifThe major significance of this region is that the majority of oriental motifs which used in

carpet making in this region that have a profound meaning: the circle signifies etemity,

the zigzag water and light, the swastika a light showing the way in darkness, the meander

the continuity of life and the tree happiness or goodness. A traditional pattem is usually

composed ofa choice of motifs from among roses, lotus, poppies, myrtle, henna, crocus,

narcissus, lilies, the tree of life and a variety ofbirds.

"Bhadohi, North West of Benares in the ganges valleys, source ofthe huge quantities

of goods, mainly in Geometric design, and of some better grades, overlapping with.,Khamaria and Gopiganj, west and south of Benares:"

(Reference taken from the book of Mr. P.R.J Ford, - ..Oriental Carpets' on pflge

number 305 -) (Aflochment No.I6 )

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Others-

All process from woolen yam to finishing of carpets done here by manually. From

weaving of carpet to designing the graph and colouring with natural dyes all these

works are done here manually.

This cottage based industry is Eco friendly because the natural wool, silk and

cotton is biodegrable and doesn't harm the environment and humanity. The details

of this are attached in the Annexure 6.

(18) Kashmir and other areas are also famous for its carpet but there are a lot ofdifferences in their work in comparison with the Bhadohi region, the Bhadohi region is

famous for producing all types of capets , in this region all the process from katti

preparation to finishing of carpets are done , here all the weavers are master weavers

because they weave by seeing the design graphs but in Kashmir they follow the talim

process one master weaver guide other weavers about the designs and knotting.

(19) The roots of Indian art and crafts are entrenched very deep and they are capable ofinfluencing the generations passing by. The present status ofcraft in India owes much to

the rich craft traditions of the past. Most of the crafts from the past continue to flourish

due to their utilitarian nature, their availability to the common people, and popularity in

domestic and foreign markets.

Today, the carpet industry of India is one of the largest and most consistent

suppliers of carpets to the world. The Bhadohi region in Uttar pradesh supports the

largest handJoomed carpet industry ofthe world. Carpets continue to be hand made. The

nature ofthe art precludes the use of machines. There is no machine that can tie knots the

way human fingers can. Hand knotting gives the carpet its essential quality - its

uniqueness. The color schemes can be the same.

The exports of handicrafts, including hand knotted carpets, during the year 2006_

07 were Rs 20,963 crores (US$ 4619.20 Million) registering an increase of 19.04 o/o in

Rupee terms and 16.08 % in dollar terms. The main export items, which exhibited

increase during 2006-07, were carpets (19.237o). The details ofthis are attached in the

(Datas are taken fron CEPC website and AICMA)

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(20) Effect of globalization: The Bhadohi carpet region is the biggest handmade carpet

manufacturing producing centre in India. It is important to save this ancient tradition ofcarpet weaving of this region from the new emerging horizon of fakeness, so it's become

mandatory to protect this product flom the arising danger through legal protection act.

these products are the national heritage and socio - economic attached with the thousands

of stakeholders , it also plays an important role in providing employment to thousands ofpeoples including women , it is the largest handmade carpet cluster of the world hence

one of the biggest revenue generation industry for the country . The GI act helps in

safeguard the socio economic interest ofthe stakeholders in the WTO era and can act as

an instrument for balanced development of the country.

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