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Combine iconic sights with ventures to edgier urban locales during a classic European city break. Thessa Lageman © Ross Helen/ Shutterstock; © Elena Lysenkova/ Shutterstock 76 Travel / Amsterdam

Transcript of © Ross Helen/ Shutterstock; © Elena Lysenkova/ Shutterstock · 2019-08-29 · the central...

Page 1: © Ross Helen/ Shutterstock; © Elena Lysenkova/ Shutterstock · 2019-08-29 · the central station, crossing the wide river IJ towards NDSM Wharf. Like me, several other passengers

Combine iconic sights with ventures to edgier urban locales during a classic European city break.

Thessa Lageman

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The ferry service is one of the few free connections between the centre of Amsterdam and the northern neighbourhoods. NDSM, a former shipyard, has been transformed into a cultural hotspot with a vibrant artist community.

The ferry departs from behind the central station, crossing the wide river IJ towards NDSM Wharf. Like me, several other passengers have taken a bicycle with them, including an elderly couple and a father with a toddler on the back seat.

The sun appears from behind the clouds as the ferry arrives at its destination. The ferry service is one of the few free connections between the centre of Amsterdam and the northern neighbourhoods. NDSM, a former shipyard, has been transformed into a cultural hotspot with a vibrant artist community. Cycling around, I pause here and there to take photos of the many colourful pieces of street art. Behind the extravagant Crane Hotel Faralda, also covered with graffiti, is Noorderlicht Café, a greenhouse-turned-café. I enjoy a tasty vegetarian burger in the garden overlooking the river.

Next, I cycle 3km through a quiet industrial and residential area towards A’DAM Tower. I stop every now and then to check Google Maps, as using a

/ ON THE MAP Amsterdam is the capital and the largest city of the Netherlands. Dubbed the city of canals, Amsterdam offers 93 museums, ranging from toy museums and food museums to art museums.

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The surrounding Jordaan district, which dates back to the 17th century, was originally a working-class neighbourhood but is now one of Amsterdam’s most upscale and trendy areas.

1. One of the best ways to explore the city is with a boat tour. The tours take tourists around Amsterdam's canal ring and top attractions. 2. Amsterdam hosts more than 300 festivals every year. You can enjoy music, dance, film, culinary, children's, and theatre festivals.3. A busy restaurant in the Jordaan district of Amsterdam. Restaurants with an outdoor settings are popular during the warm summer nights.

mobile phone while cycling is now illegal. The recently refurbished tower, situated in a former Shell office built in 1966, is situated next to the futuristic, white EYE Film Museum. The elevator, with surprising music and a light show, takes me to the rooftop observation deck, which offers stunning views of the city.

I had started my morning with a canal cruise. The one-hour boat tour through the oldest, most picturesque part of town was a great way to begin my visit to the Dutch capital. “Most of the canals were built in the 17th century, during the Dutch Golden Age,” our guide told us as we passed some of the city’s 1,281 bridges. She also mentioned that many of the iconic merchant houses are so narrow because that meant paying less tax.

I had been extra careful when cycling to the nearby Westerpark afterwards, remembering the guide’s remark that every year more than 10,000 bicycles are fished out of the canals. The

Westergasfabriek can be found in the lush lawns of the park. Dating from 1883, this former gasworks is now a cultural centre with several attractive cafés and restaurants.

The next day, it’s time to enjoy some cultural sights, starting with the Anne Frank House. This impressive museum has become very popular, so I made sure to buy my tickets online in advance. Here, in the secret annex, 13-year-old Anne Frank began keeping her famous diary while she and her family hid from the Nazis during the Second World War. Only her father survived the war.

The surrounding Jordaan district, which dates back to the 17th century, was originally a working-class neighbourhood but is now one of Amsterdam’s most upscale and trendy areas. During a pleasant stroll, I discover many interesting art galleries, small boutiques and cosy pubs. I buy some gifts in a shopping area known as the Negen Straatjes (nine little streets).

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Then it’s time for lunch; I head to the nearby Foodhallen, which consists of 21 food stands in a lively former tram depot. Deciding what to order is no easy feat, but I finally settle on some delicious Mexican tacos. The same building also houses a cinema, hotel, and several small shops selling Dutch design and vintage items.

The Van Gogh Museum in Museum Square is the next highlight on my list. Not wanting to leave anything to

chance, I booked my ticket well in advance. Not only can you admire the landscapes, self-portraits, and other works by this extraordinary post-impressionist painter, but you can also learn more about the man behind the art, who only lived to be 37.

Virtually next door is the Rijksmuseum, where you can marvel at masterpieces by Golden Age painters like Rembrandt, Frans Hals, and Johannes Vermeer. The museum

senses: taste5

Virtually next door is the Rijksmuseum, where you can marvel at masterpieces by Golden Age painters...

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CheeseE/ The Netherlands is famous for its cheese (kaas). For an introduction to the many different varieties – and a delicious tasting or two – head to the Amsterdam Cheese Museum or the Albert Cuyp market.

I/ Belanda terkenal akan keju (kaas). Untuk mengenal berbagai varian keju—dan mencoba beberapa—kunjungi Amsterdam Cheese Museum atau pasar Albert Cuyp.

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1. Young people enjoying themselves at a typical Dutch fair. 2. Street art of one of the Netherlands’ most famous painters, Vincent van Gogh, who created about 2,100 artworks during his lifetime (1853–1890), of which many can be admired in the fabulous Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam.

My day ends in the city’s largest and most famous park, the Vondelpark, situated west of the Museumplein.

has plenty more to offer, such as an extensive collection of blue-and-white Delftware. There are 8,000 artworks and historical objects on display in total, dating from between 1200 and 2000.

My day ends in the city’s largest and most famous park, the Vondelpark, situated west of the Museumplein. Opened in 1865, it was exclusively used as a private park for the wealthy until 1953. Today, groups of friends relax and enjoy the pleasant summer evening, many of them picnicking near the swan-dotted pond. Cyclists, joggers, and a group of inline skaters pass by.

At the Blue Tea House, located in a ring-shaped Modernist pavilion built in 1937, I sip some fresh mint tea. Nearby, cheerful tunes can be heard. “There’s a concert at the open-air theatre over there,” the waitress clarifies. “Go and have a look."

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Tour boats on one of the city's canals, edged by traditional old buildings.

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Nikmati paduan keindahan ikonis dan perjalanan ke tempat-tempat urban yang seru di kota klasik Eropa.

Feri berangkat dari belakang stasiun sentral, menyeberangi sungai lebar IJ menuju NDSM Wharf. Sama seperti saya, beberapa penumpang lain membawa sepeda, termasuk pasangan lanjut usia dan seorang ayah yang memboyong balita di kursi belakang.

Mentari muncul dari balik awan saat feri tiba di tujuan. Layanan feri ini adalah satu dari beberapa transportasi gratis yang menghubungkan pusat kota Amsterdam dengan daerah di utara. NDSM adalah bekas galangan kapal yang disulap menjadi pusat budaya yang ramai oleh komunitas seniman. Saya berkeliling dengan sepeda sambil berhenti di sana-sini untuk memotret beragam karya seni jalanan nan semarak. Di belakang Crane Hotel Faralda yang dihiasi grafiti, ada Noorderlicht Café, rumah kaca yang menjadi kafe. Saya menyantap burger vegetarian lezat di tamannya yang menghadap ke sungai.

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A’DAM LookoutE/ Admire the city from the observation deck on the 22nd floor of this former office building. If you’re feeling adventurous, consider trying the four-person swing over the edge. Overhoeksplein 5, north of the centre, adamlookout.com

I/ Saksikan pemandangan kota dari dek observasi di lantai 22 gedung bekas perkantoran ini. Untuk Anda yang berjiwa petualang, coba ayunan empat orang di pinggir dek.

View of the A’DAM Lookout tower on the right and the EYE Film Museum in north Amsterdam.

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1. You can relax in more than 30 lovely parks in Amsterdam, including the Vondelpark and the Westerpark.2. Miniatures of canal houses (Dutch: grachtenpanden) in a souvenir shop. Most of these houses were built in the 17th century and are narrow, high, and deep.

Distrik Jordaan awalnya merupakan permukiman kelas pekerja, namun kini menjadi salah satu daerah paling mewah dan trendi di Amsterdam.

Bike BellsE/ Watch out when strolling around Amsterdam. If you hear a bell, you’re likely walking on a bicycle path instead of the pavement. If you hear a different bell, it could mean you’re in the way of a tram. Be particularly mindful in the city centre.

I/ Hati-hati saat berjalan mengitari Amsterdam. Bila Anda mendengar bunyi bel, mungkin Anda berjalan di jalur sepeda, bukan trotoar, sehingga menghalangi pesepeda yang ingin lewat. Bila Anda mendengar bunyi bel yang berbeda, bisa jadi Anda berada di jalur trem. Berhati-hatilah melewati pusat kota.

Selanjutnya, saya bersepeda sejauh 3 km melewati kawasan industri dan perumahan yang sepi menuju A'DAM Tower. Sesekali saya berhenti untuk memeriksa Google Maps, karena sekarang ada larangan menggunakan ponsel saat bersepeda. Menara yang baru dipugar tersebut berlokasi di bekas kantor Shell yang dibangun tahun 1966, di sebelah bangunan putih futuristik Museum Film EYE. Liftnya, yang dilengkapi musik dan permainan cahaya, mengantar saya ke dek observasi, yang menyuguhkan keindahan pemandangan kota.

Sebelum itu, saya memulai pagi dengan melayari kanal. Wisata perahu satu jam melintasi bagian tertua dan paling indah di Amsterdam adalah cara terbaik untuk mengawali kunjungan saya ke ibu kota Belanda. “Sebagian besar kanal dibangun abad ke-17, pada Zaman Keemasan Belanda,” kata pemandu wisata saat kami melewati beberapa dari 1.281 jembatan di kota ini. Ia juga menjelaskan bahwa banyak rumah dagang di sini ukurannya sangat kecil untuk mengurangi beban pajak.

Kemudian saya bersepeda ke taman Westerpark dengan ekstra hati-hati, mengingat sang

pemandu mengatakan bahwa setiap tahun lebih dari 10.000 sepeda diangkat dari dalam kanal. Di halaman taman yang rimbun, berdiri Westergasfabriek. Dibangun tahun 1883, bekas pabrik gas ini sekarang menjadi pusat budaya dan dihuni beberapa kafe dan restoran yang menarik.

Keesokan hari, saatnya saya menikmati wisata budaya, dimulai dari Anne Frank House. Museum yang menakjubkan ini sangat populer, karena itu saya membeli tiket lebih dahulu secara online. Di sini, dalam persembunyian, Anne Frank yang berusia 13 tahun mulai menulis catatan hariannya yang terkenal, selama ia dan keluarganya bersembunyi dari Nazi semasa Perang Dunia II. Hanya ayahnya yang berhasil selamat dari perang.

Distrik Jordaan di sekitarnya, yang berdiri sejak abad ke-17, dahulu merupakan permukiman kelas pekerja, namun kini menjadi salah satu daerah paling mewah dan trendi di Amsterdam. Sambil berjalan-jalan, saya menemukan banyak galeri seni yang memikat, butik-butik mungil dan pub yang nyaman. Saya membeli oleh-oleh di pusat perbelanjaan yang disebut Negen Straatjes (sembilan jalan kecil).

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Vergulden EenhoornHead to this farmhouse dating back to 1702 in the east part of town for tasty food and a quiet atmosphere. verguldeneenhoorn.nl

1. The Rijksmuseum, which has a collection of 8,000 artworks and historical objects on display, including masterpieces by Golden Age painters like Rembrandt, Frans Hals, and Johannes Vermeer. The ‘I Amsterdam letters’ were removed earlier this year because the location became too crowded and are now ‘travelling’ around the lesser-known parts of the city.2. Street art depicting Anne Frank (1929–1945) in Amsterdam North. During the Second World War, the Dutch-Jewish girl had to hide from the German occupiers. Her book, The Diary of a Young Girl, still makes a fascinating read.3. The Anne Frank statue on Westerkerk Plaza near the Anne Frank House.

Saat tiba waktunya makan siang, saya menuju Foodhallen, bekas depot trem yang kini meriah dengan 21 kedai makanan. Sulit menentukan pilihan, tetapi akhirnya saya membeli taco Meksiko yang lezat. Bangunan ini juga memiliki bioskop, hotel, dan beberapa toko kecil yang menjual karya desain khas Belanda dan barang-barang kuno.

Museum Van Gogh di Museum Square adalah tujuan utama saya berikutnya. Agar tidak ada yang terlewat, saya memesan tiket jauh sebelumnya. Di sini, Anda tidak cuma disuguhi pemandangan, potret diri dan karya-karya lain dari pelukis pasca-impresionis yang luar biasa ini, tetapi Anda juga dapat mengetahui lebih banyak tentang sang seniman, yang hidupnya di dunia hanya 37 tahun.

Di sebelahnya ada Rijksmuseum, di mana Anda akan dibuat kagum oleh karya-karya besar para pelukis Zaman Emas seperti Rembrandt, Frans Hals dan Johannes Vermeer. Museum ini juga punya suguhan

lainnya, seperti koleksi keramik biru-putih Delftware. Total, ada 8.000 karya seni dan benda bersejarah dari tahun 1200 sampai 2000 yang dipamerkan di sini.

Hari itu saya tutup dengan mengunjungi taman terbesar dan paling terkenal di kota ini, Vondelpark, yang terletak di sebelah barat Museumplein. Dibuka tahun 1865, taman ini dahulu adalah taman pribadi untuk kalangan atas hingga tahun 1953. Kini, taman tersebut menjadi tempat sekelompok teman bersantai dan menikmati malam musim panas yang menyenangkan. Banyak dari mereka berpiknik di dekat kolam yang dihiasi angsa, sementara pengendara sepeda, pelari dan sekelompok pemain sepatu roda lalu lalang di taman.

Di Blue Tea House, yang menempati paviliun Modernis berbentuk cincin yang dibangun tahun 1937, saya menyesap teh min segar. Dari dekatnya, terdengar alunan lagu-lagu riang. “Ada konser di teater terbuka di sana,” kata pelayan menjelaskan. “Pergilah menonton.”

NDSM adalah bekas galangan kapal yang disulap menjadi pusat budaya yang ramai oleh komunitas seniman.

Getting there

amsTransportation

Stay

Dine

Hotel JakartaStay at the Netherlands’ most sustainable hotel on Java Island, where ships used to depart to Indonesia. hoteljakarta.amsterdam

Airbnb on a houseboatExperience life on Amsterdam’s famous canals by spending the night on one of the city’s 2,500 houseboats. The earlier you book, the more options you’ll have. airbnb.com

Garuda Indonesia flies 6 times a week to Amsterdam. Flight time from Jakarta is 13 hours 20 mins.

RijksEnjoy contemporary Dutch cuisine at the Rijksmuseum restaurant, with locally sourced ingredients and international influences. rijksrestaurant.nl

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