Инструкция к Pfaff Hobby 1042

hobby102210321042

Instruction manual

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

http://www.manualslib.com/

This household sewing machine is designed to comply with IEC/EN 60335-2-28 and UL1594

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONSWhen using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:Read all instructions before using this household sewing machine.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:• A sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this

sewing machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

• Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watt.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, re, electric shock, or injury to persons:• Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is

used by or near children or in rm person.

• Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

• Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

• Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

• Keep ngers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.

• Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.• Do not use bent needles.• Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may de ect the needle causing it to break.• Switch the sewing machine off (“0”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such

as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.

• Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.• Do not use outdoors.• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being

administrated.• To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0”) position, then remove plug from outlet.• Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONSDownloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine


Congratulations! You have bought a quality

product made by Pfaff which is sure to bring you

countless hours of sewing pleasure. Your new

sewing machine features the very latest in de-

sign and technology. Furthermore, it has numer-

ous practical features which will make sewing

much easier for you.

Your sewing machine is as simple to operate as

this instruction manual is to follow. Before you

start sewing, please take the time to read these

instructions carefully. It is certainly time well

spent, and is the best way to find out just what

your machine can do and make full use of all its

features.

If you have any further questions, just ask your

Pfaff dealer, who will be happy to assist you with

help or advice.

We wish you many enjoyable hours creating your

very own fashion ideas.

Sewing for fun

hobby



1

131211

10

9

8

7

65432

18

17

1615

14

20

19

29

28

27

2625

2423

2221

32

3130



Parts of the sewing machine hobby 1042

1 Thread guide 2 Bobbin winder tension 3 Needle thread tension 4 Adjustment field 5 Spool holder 6 Bobbin winder 7 Handwheel 8 Stitch pattern chart with presser foot 9 Pattern adjustment button10 Reverse key11 Connection bushing12 Master switch13 Detachable work support with accessory box14 Needle plate15 Thread guide16 Thread guide17 Thread cutter18 Threading slot19 Hook cover (enclosing sewing hook)20 Presser foot holder with presser foot21 Free-arm22 Feed dog23 Needle holder with fixing screw24 Buttonhole lever 25 Thread guide26 Presser bar lifter27 Sewing lamp (max. 15 W)28 Take-up lever29 Carrying handle30 Stitch length adjustment button31 Adjustment field32 Stitch width adjustment button



1

131211

10

9

8

7

65432

18

17

1615

14

20

19

29

28

27

2625

23

2221

30



Parts of the sewing machine hobby 1022 and 1032

1 Thread guide 2 Bobbin winder tension 3 Needle thread tension 4 Adjustment field 5 Spool holder 6 Bobbin winder 7 Handwheel 8 Stitch pattern chart with presser foot 9 Pattern adjustment button10 Reverse key11 Connection bushing12 Master switch13 Detachable work support with accessory box14 Needle plate15 Thread guide16 Thread guide17 Thread cutter18 Threading slot19 Hook cover (enclosing sewing hook)20 Presser foot holder with presser foot21 Free-arm22 Feed dog23 Needle holder with fixing screw25 Thread guide26 Presser bar lifter27 Sewing lamp (max. 15 W)28 Take-up lever29 Carrying handle30 Stitch length adjustment button



hobby – Sewing for fun

AAccessories and needles 53

Accessory compartment 11

BBias tape binder 56

Blind-stitch foot 28

Bobbin case 14-15

Borders, embroidering 50

Buttonholes 33-37

Buttons 29

CChanging the needle 20

Changing the sewing lamp 63

Cleaning and oiling 62

Closed overlock stitch 32

Control panel 21

Cording foot 57

DDarning 42

Detachable work support 11

Drawing up the bobbin thread 18

EEdge guide 26

Elastic blind stitch 28

Elastic stitch 31

Elastic stitches 30-32

Electrical connection 10

Embroidering with the twin needle 50

FFancy stitches 22

Feed dog, lowering 20

Felling foot 57

Foot control 10

Free arm 11

GGathering with the elastic thread 41

Gathering with the straight stitch 40

General sewing aids 25

HHandwheel, releasing 12

Hemming with the twin needle 38

Hemstitching 52

Honeycomb stitch 31

Hook, removing 62

KKnit-edge foot 58

LLace-work 47

Linen buttonhole 34

Linen buttonhole with gimp thread 34

MMaintenance 61

Master switch 10

NNeedle charts 59-60

Needle plate, removing 63

Needle thread tension 26

Index




OOiling the machine 62

One step buttonhole 35-37

Open overlock stitch 32

Overlock stitches 32

PPatchwork quilt 51

Practical sewing 25

Presser bar lifter 17

QQuilt and patchwork foot 58

RRepairing tears 43

Reverse sewing 24

Richelieu 50

Roll hemming 46

Ruf er 56

SSafety notes 2

Serging with the blind stitch foot 28

Serging with the zigzag stitch 27

Setting utility stitches 22

Sewing feet (normal accessories) 54

Sewing feet (special accessories) 55

Sewing lamp 63

Sewing on patches 42

Sewing problems and their solutions 64

Shell edging 48

Smocking 39

Special accessories chart 55

Spool placement 12

Stitch chart 6, 7, 8

Stitch density 23

Stitch length adjustment button 23

Stitch width adjustment button 24

Straight stitch 27

Stretch stitches, adjusting 23

Stretch triple straight stitch 30

Stretch triple zigzag stitch 30

TThread cutter 18

Thread tension 14

Threading 16-17

Threading the needle thread 16

Topstitching 26

Traditional embroidery techniques 49

Troubleshooting 64

Twin needle 38

WWinding the bobbin 12-13

ZZigzag stitch 27

Zippers 44-45




hobby 1022 – Stitch chartFor these programs the stitch length can be set anywhere between 0 and 4 mm with the aid of the stitch length adjustment button (30).

Program Name Application

Buttonhole A3, A4/2, A1 Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses and bed linen

B Straight stitch For all straight stitch needle position middle and lockstitch work up to 4 mm

C Straight stitch For all sewing and topstitch work requiring a needle position left left needle position, stitch width 2 mm

D Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué, stitch width 5 mm

E Elastic stitch For stitching on elastic band, darning tears and patches

F Elastic blind stitch For invisible hem attachment and simultaneous serging. Also for stretch fabrics.

G Blindstitch For invisible hem attachment

H Shell-edging stitch For decorative hems on ne materials, e.g. linen





Buttonhole A3 A4/2 A1 Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses and bed linen

B Straight stitch For all straight stitch and lockstitch work needle position middle up to 4 mm

C Straight stitch For all sewing and topstitch work needle position left requiring a left needle position

D Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué, stitch width 5 mm


F Elastic blind stitch For invisible hem attachment and simultaneous

serging. Also for stretch fabrics

G Blind stitch For invisible hem attachment


J Greek stitch A classical decorative stitch e.g. for borders and towels

B Stretch triple straight For stretch seams, e.g. crotch seams on sports- stitch, needle pos. middle and workwear

C Stretch triple straight For stretch seams requiring a left needle position stitch, needle position left

D Stretch triple- For attaching elastic tape on elastic materials zigzag stitch

E Honeycomb stitch For sewing on elastic threads, overlocking and for decorative hem seams

F Edge stitch For closing and serging one or more fabric layers wide

G Edge stitch For closing and serging one or more fabric layers narrow

H Open overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for stronger or non-fraying materials

J Closed overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for fraying materials

hobby 1032 – Stitch chartFor these programs the stitch length can be set anywhere between 0 and 4 mm with the aid of the stitch length adjustment button (30).




hobby 1042 – Stitch chartFor these programs the stitch length can be set anywhere between 0 and 4 mm with the aid of the stitch length adjustment button (30).To alter the stitch width from 0 to 5, use the stitch width adjustment button (32).


A Buttonhole Standard buttonhole for e.g. blouses and bed linen

B Straight stitch, For all straight stitch and lockstitch work up to needle position middle to 4 mm

C Straight stitch, For all sewing and topstitch work requiring a left needle position left needle position.

D Zigzag stitch For serging and appliqué


F Elastic blind stitch For invisible hem attachment and simultaneous serging. Also for stretch fabrics.

G Blind stitch For invisible hem attachment


J Greek stitch A classical decorative stitch e.g. for borders on towels

B Stretch triple straight For stretch seams, stitch, needle pos. middle e.g. crotch seams on sports- and workwear

C Stretch triple straight For stretch seams requiring a left needle position stitch, needle pos. left

D Stretch triple For attaching elastic tape on elastic materials zigzag stitch

E Honeycomb stitch For sewing on elastic threads, overlocking towelling and for decorative hem seams

F Edge stitch For closing and serging one or more fabric layers wide

G Edge stitch For closing and serging one or more fabric layers narrow

H Open overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for stronger or non-fraying materials

J Closed overlock stitch A closing and serging seam for fraying materials

Ornamental stitches for hobby 1042Application: Embroidery, e.g. on blouses, children s wear and house-hold textiles.

M N O P



9

Operating the machineBobbin winding 12-13

Bobbin case 14

Changing the needle 20

Changing the presser foot 19

Control panel 21

Detachable work support 11

Drawing up the bobbin thread 18

Electrical connection 10

Free arm 11

Lowering the feed dog 20

Needle thread tension 20

Presser bar lifter 17

Reverse serging 24

Setting the utility stitches 22

Setting the stretch stitches 23

Threading the needle thread 16-17

Thread cutter 18



Operating the machine

10

Carrying handleLift up the carrying handle of the sewing machine from behind.

Carrying caseThe carrying case, which is part of the basic equipment, protects your sewing machine from dust and damage during transport.

Before putting on the carrying case, lift up the carrying handle. Make sure the sew-ing machine symbol on the carrying case is pointing toward you.

Electrical connectionConnect the plug of the foot pedal to the connection bushing (11) on the sewing machine and the electrical socket.The sewing speed is regulated by pressing the foot pedal. For this sewing machine has to be used foot controller TJC-211 (220-240V) or TJC-150 (120V).

Master switchThe sewing lamp lights up when the mas-ter switch (12) is turned on. The machine is now ready to sew.

120 V

220 V




11

Accessory compartmentThe accessory compartment is found underneath the detachable work support (13), that has to be opened.

Organizing the accessoriesPlace the enclosed accessories into the accessory compartment.

Removing the detachable work sup-port /free armIn order to be able to sew with the free arm, you must swing the detachable work support (13) to the left and lift it out of the hole.

Inserting the detachable work supportPush the pins of the detachable work sup-port (13) from the left fully into the holes provided.

When inserting the detachable work sup-port, make sure that it is ush with the free arm of the sewing machine.




12

Preparing the machine for bobbinwindingPull the handwheel (7) fully to the right. This will prevent the needle moving while the machine is winding the bobbin.

Mounting the bobbin

Switch off the master switch (12)Place the empty bobbin onto the pin of the bobbin winding mechanism and press it down as far as possible. Push the bob-bin to the right.

Note: The bobbin can only be wound if

it is moved fully to the right.

Winding the bobbinPull the spool holder (5) up and place a spool on it.

Place the thread clockwise into the bobbin winder tension (2) and run it to the bobbin. Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin several times.

Turn the master switch (12) on and press the foot pedal.

Let go of the thread after a few revolutions. As soon as the bobbin is full the winding action will be stopped automatically. Press the full bobbin to the left and remove it from the pin.




13

Winding a bobbin through the needleIt is possible to wind bobbins even when the machine is threaded. Raise the press-er bar lifter (26) to the top position. Pull the thread underneath the presser foot.

Bobbin winder tensionPass the thread through the bobbin thread tension (2) in a clockwise direction, so that it crosses over itself on the way to the bobbin.

Pull the thread upward through the left-hand threader slot (18). Place the thread from left to right through the take-up lever (28). Wind the beginning of the thread several times around the bobbin in a clockwise direction. Hold the end of the thread rmly and press the foot pedal.

Tip: While winding the bobbin, gently push down the front of the presser foot with

your finger.

Don t forget: After winding a bobbin, press the handwheel (7) back to the left!




14

Hook cover

Switch off the master switch (12).

Hold the side of the hook cover (19) and open it towards you.

Taking out the bobbin caseLift the latch of the bobbin case and pull the bobbin case out. Release the latch and take out the empty bobbin.

Thread tensionIn order to achieve a perfect seam ap-pearance and durability make sure the needle tension is correctly adjusted, so that the thread interlace is not visible on both sides of the fabric.

The following is valid for general sewing work:Thread interlace is visible on the top side of the fabric:

• The needle thread tension is too tight .

• The thread tension must be lowered.

Thread interlace is visible on the under-side of the fabric:

• The needle thread tension is too loose.

• The thread tension must be raised.

• For fancy stitches, buttonholes and darning the thread interlace should be visible on the underside of the fabric.




15

Inserting the bobbinInsert the full bobbin in the bobbin case. When doing so, pull the thread sideways through slot A and then under tension spring B so that it rests in the opening (see arrow).

Inserting the bobbin caseLift latch D and push the bobbin case fully onto pin E of the sewing hook. The bobbin case nger F must point into cutout G.

Check:Pull the bobbin thread sharply. The bobbin case must not fall out of the hook.




16

Threading the needle thread


Pull the spool holder (5) up and mount the thread. Raise the presser bar lifter (26). Turn the handwheel until the take-up lever (28) is at its highest position.

Thread by following the steps A to E.

Tip:All the thread guides have an open-

ing in which you can simply lay the

threads.

E

D B

C A




17

Threading the needleThread the needle thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back.

Presser bar lifterThe presser foot is raised and lowered with the presser bar lifter (26).




18

Drawing up the bobbin threadRaise the presser foot. Hold the needle thread and turn the handwheel towards you until the needle is at its highest posi-tion and the bobbin thread has formed a loop. Pull the needle thread to draw up the bobbin thread.

Bobbin threadClose the hook cover (19) and pull the thread under the presser foot to the left.

Thread cutterPull the thread from the back to the front over the thread cutter (17).




19

Removing the presser footSwitch off the master switch (12).

Raise the needle to its highest position. Press the front of the presser foot up and the rear of the presser foot down until it disengages from the presser foot holder (20).

Attaching the presser footPlace the presser foot under the presser foot holder (20) so that when the presser bar lifter (26) is lowered, the pins of the foot engage in the presser foot holder.

Check:Please check that the presser foot is properly attached by raising the presser bar lifter.




20

Changing the needle


To remove: Lower the presser foot and set the needle to its highest point. Loosen the xing screw (23) and pull the needle downwards.

To insert: The at side A of the needle must face to the rear. Lower the presser foot and insert the needle, pushing it up as far as it will go. Hold the needle and tighten the xing screw (23) rmly.

A

Setting the needle thread tensionSet the required amount of the needle thread tension (3) using the markings on the tension dial.

The normal setting for sewing is 4-5. For embroidery and buttonhole sewing be-tween 2 and 3. (See page 15)

Lowering the feed dogFor certain sewing work, such as sewing on buttons, the feed dog (22) has to be lowered. To do this, open the hook cover (19) and move the metallic slide to the right-hand position (B) by pushing it down-wards and then to the right. To engage the feed dog, push down the slide and lock it into the left-hand position (A).

A B




21

Control panelAll the sewing programs and the relevant foot recommendations are depicted on the control panel of your sewing machine. The various programs are selected using the stitch pattern adjustment button (9) on the left.

With the adjustment button (30) on the right (hobby 1022, 1032) or in the middle (hobby 1042) you can adjust the stitch length, the buttonhole density and the stretch stitches.

With the adjustment button (32) on the right (model 1042) you can in nitely vary the stitch width from 0 to 5 mm.




22

Setting utility stitchesAll stitch patterns that you can sew with your machine are illustrated in the stitch pattern chart (8).

Using the stitch pattern adjustment button (9) you can set the desired stitch by turning the dial until the required letter appears in the adjustment eld (4).

The lower value shows you the optimum stitch length.

Setting fancy stitches (model 1042 only)Using the stitch pattern adjustment button (9) select the fancy stitches M-P.

Turn the stitch pattern adjustment button until the required letter appears in the ad-justment eld (4).

Note: For embroidering use the clear

view foot.




23

Stitch length adjustment buttonWith the stitch length adjustment button (30) you can adjust the stitch length be-tween 0 and 4 mm by turning the point marking on the button to the required length.

“Buttonhole” symbolBetween the numbers 0 and 1 you will nd the “buttonhole” symbol. This area is the optimum stitch density for sewing but-tonholes. The closer you turn the dial to 0, the denser the stitch becomes.

Setting stretch stitches(models 1032, 1042)All of the stitches on the darker back-ground are stretch stitches, i.e. they are suitable for stretch fabrics. Turn the stitch length adjustment button (30) to the “stretch” symbol and select the desired stitch with the stitch pattern adjustment button (9).




24

Stitch width adjustment button(model 1042)With the stitch width adjustment button (32) you can in nitely adjust the width from 0 to 5 mm.

The required width appears in the adjust-ment eld (31).

Reverse sewingThe machine sews in reverse only as long as the reverse sewing key (10) is pressed.



25

Utility stitchesand practical sewingButtonholes 33-37

Darning 42-43

Elastic stitches 28, 30-31

Gathering 40-41

General sewing aids 26

Hemming with the twin needle 38

Lace work 47

Non-elastic stitches 27

Overlock stitches 32

Roll hemming 46

Sewing on buttons 29

Shell edging 48

Smocking 39

Zippers 44-45



Utility stitches and practical sewing

26

Needle thread tensionIn order to achieve a perfectly sewn seam, the needle thread tension must be correctly adjusted. The normal setting for utility stitches is in the range from 4 to 5.

Check the tension using a wide zigzag stitch. The thread interlace must be be-tween the two layers of fabric.

If the needle thread tension is too tight, the interlace will be on the top side of the fabric.

If the needle thread tension is set too loose, the interlace will be on the reverse side of the fabric.

Topstitching with the edge guide (special accessories)For broad topstitching work we recom-mend using the edge guide. This ac-cessory guarantees topstitching which is parallel to the edge of the fabric. The edge guide is inserted into hole C and is secured with xing screw F.

Feed aid for thick seamsTo ensure precise feeding at the begin-ning of a thick seam, we recommend plac-ing a piece of fabric which is the same thickness as the work under the back of the sewing foot to support it.

CF




27

Straight stitchProgram B is the basic straight stitch in center needle position.

Select stitch B. You can vary the stitch length with the stitch length adjustment button (30).

Straight stitch in “left” needle positionSome sewing work can be accomplished more easily by altering the needle posi-tion. E.g. topstitching a collar or sewing on a zipper.

Model 1022, 1032:Select stitch C.

Model 1042:Select stitch C

or

select stitch B. You can in nitely alter the needle position from 0/left to 5/center with the stitch width adjustment button (32).

Zigzag stitch

Model 1022, 1032:Select stitch D and set the zigzag stitch at the required width. Refer to the marks in the adjustment eld.

Model 1042:Select stitch D. You can vary the stitch width from 0 to 5 mm with the stitch width adjustment button (32).

Tip: Blind stitch foot no. 3 is particu-

larly suitable for serging thin materials.

While sewing, the thread passes over

the bar thus preventing the fabric edge

from rolling up. This ensures a good,

smooth seam. The trimmed edge must

be guided along the stop. You can ad-

just the stop with the retaining screw.




28

Elastic blind stitch, program FThe elastic blind stitch is especially suit-able for invisible hems; sewing by hand is no longer necessary. It is equally suitable for both stretch and non-stretch fabrics.

The hem is sewn and serged simultane-ously, i.e. an extra serging of the fabric edge is not necessary.

• On materials which fray strongly, serge the hem edge separately.

• Use blind stitch foot no. 3.

• Fold the hem width inwards.

• Lay the hem back outwards so that the hem edge protrudes by about 1 cm.

• Lay the fabric underneath the presser foot so that the crease line runs along the red guide.

• The needle should only catch one thread when entering the fabric in the crease line.




29

Sewing on buttonsFor sewing on buttons, the presser foot must be removed and the feed dog must be lowered (c.f. page 20).

• Select the 4 mm zigzag stitch, stitch D.

Model 1022, 1032:Select stitch D. Turn the stitch adjustment button (9) to the required width (refer to the marks).

Model 1042Select stitch D and set the stitch width ad-justment button (32) at “4”.

• Turn the handwheel towards you and position the button so the needle enters the left hole in the button.

• Lower the presser bar lifter. The button will be held in place by the shank of the foot.

• Sew on the button. Take care to ensure that the needle also enters the right hand hole in the button.

• Knot the thread ends on the reverse side.

Sewing on buttons with a thread shank• Attach the presser foot.

• Place a match between the holes in the button and sew as described in the left hand column on this page.

• Remove the match and pull the fabric and the button apart.

• Wrap the shank with the sewing thread and knot it.




30

Stitch B stretch(models 1032 and 1042 only)

Stretch triple straight stitchUse this program for all seams which require a high level of durability: e.g. crotch seams.

Stitch D stretch(models 1032 and 1042 only)

Stretch triple zigzagThe stretch triple zigzag is a very elastic and decorative seam which is particularly suitable for T-shirts and underwear.

• Serge the fabric edge.

• Fold over the desired hem width.

• Topstitch the hem from the face side.




31

Elastic stitchStitch EBecause of its high elasticity, this stitch is used for sewing on elastic band, e.g. on underwear; skirt, trouser and dress waist-bands; and cuffs.

• If replacing elastic, cut off old elastic close to its edge.

• If needed, gather the fabric edge with the 4 mm long straight stitch (c.f. page 40).

• Divide fabric and elastic into quarters and mark. You may nd it easier to han-dle if you pin the elastic to the fabric at the matching marks.

• Stretch the elastic to t the fabric, matching marks as you sew.

• Overlap the ends slightly and secure with the elastic stitch.

• On skirts and pants (trousers) the elastic is sewn onto the prepared edge with the elastic stitch.

Honeycomb stitchmodels 1032 and 1042 E stretchThe honeycomb stitch is an elastic and decorative hem which is very suitable for underwear and T-shirts.

• Fold the seam or hem edge over twice and overstitch with the honeycomb stitch.




32

What is an overlock stitch?For elastic and knitted materials, the hobby models 1032 and 1042 offer over-lock stitches which sew two fabric layers together and serge simultaneously. They are more elastic than normal seams, very durable and easy and fast to sew.

Tip: We recommend using blind stitch

foot no. 3 when sewing overlock seams.

It guides particularly well and prevents

the seam puckering even on wide

seams.

Stitch H stretch(models 1032 and 1042)

Open overlock stitchWith this stitch, thicker materials and fabrics which do not fray strongly can be sewn together perfectly.

Tip: Ensure that the needle sews the

right hand stitch just next to the mate-

rial and not in it.

Stitch J stretch(models 1032 and 1042)

Closed overlock stitchWith this stitch you can sew jersey fabrics perfectly. You can also sew on sleeve cuffs and knit collars.

Tip: Ensure that the sleeve cuff is

stretched while it is being sewn.




33

ButtonholesSewing buttonholes is very easy with all of the hobby models because the fabric does not have to be rotated. To make sewing buttonholes even easier we recommend the buttonhole foot.

Generally, buttonholes are sewn onto lined, doubled fabric. However, it is necessary to additionally stabilize some materials such as silk, organza and rayon with backing pa-per so that the fabric does not gather when being sewn.

Avalon (from Madeira) is very good for this purpose. This is a special type of stabilizer that dissolves in water. On materials such as velvet and thick wool fabrics that feed poorly it can be used either on or underneath the fabric. The material is thus fed more ef ciently by the machine and buttonholes are much easier to sew.

Embroidery and darning threads are particularly good for sewing attractive seams.

Using a fabric marker or pin, mark the starting points of the buttonholes and always sew a test buttonhole rst.

Note (models 1022 and 1032):Before every buttonhole you must slide the runner of the buttonhole foot forward

as far as it will go, i.e. the red arrow is at the first red line. The red markings are 0.5

cm apart. The red markings give you a means of determining the length of the but-

tonhole.

Tip: It is important to always sew a test buttonhole on the same fabric/stabilizer as

your project.




34

Program A3/A4/2/A1,(models 1022, 1032)

Stitch length symbol “buttonhole”

Sewing buttonholes with the button-hole foot

Linen buttonhole• Attach the buttonhole foot and slide the

foot forward as far as it will go.

• Position the pattern adjustment dial at A1 and sew the rst buttonhole seam in the desired length.

• Select setting A4/2 and sew 4-6 stitches for the bartack. Make sure the fabric stays in position while doing this.

• Select setting A3 and sew the second buttonhole seam in the reverse direc-tion and in the same length.

• Select setting A4/2 again and sew a few bartack stitches while making sure the fabric stays in position.

• Select straight stitch setting C (left nee-dle position) and sew a few tying off stitches.

• Cut open the buttonhole with the aid of a pair of scissors or a slitting knife.

Linen buttonhole with gimp threadTo sew especially durable buttonholes, e.g. on sportswear, we recommend using a gimp thread.

On elastic materials the gimp thread is particularly important to prevent the but-tonhole from stretching.

• Lay the gimp thread over the rear pro-trusion A and pass the thread ends un-derneath the presser foot towards the front.

• Clamp the threads to the left and right of protrusion B.

• Slide the buttonhole runner as far forwards as possible and sew the but-tonhole as described in the left hand column.

• Pull the loop of the gimp thread into the buttonhole and trim the thread ends.

A

B




35

1 step buttonhole(model 1042)For the 1 step buttonhole, the size of the buttonhole is automatically determined by placing the button in the special button-hole foot R.

Buttons with a diameter up to 2.5 cm (1 ) can be placed in the button holder of the buttonhole foot.

Set the machine:

Stitch A

Stitch length at “buttonhole” symbol• Place the button on the fabric and mark the upper and lower point to determine the

position of the buttonhole.

• Select the buttonhole pattern A by turning the stitch pattern adjustment button (9). Set the required stitch width using the stitch width adjustment button (32). Push the but-ton holder apart. Insert the button and push the button holder together as far as it will go.

• Attach the buttonhole foot R.




36

Pull the buttonhole lever (24) downward.

• Place the garment underneath the presser foot. Lower the buttonhole foot.

• Sew slowly and stop the machine at the starting point, when the buttonhole has been completed. The front bartack and the left buttonhole seam are sewn rst and then the rear bartack and the right seam.

• Stop the machine after sewing the right seam.




37

• In order to sew the next buttonhole turn the stitch pattern adjustment button counter-clockwise until the “reverse” symbol appears. Then return the stitch pattern adjustment button to “A”.

• The machine is now ready to sew the next buttonhole.

• Once you have completed sewing all the buttonholes, push the buttonhole lever (24) upward as far as it will go.

• By pulling the bobbin thread, bring the needle thread to the underside of the fabric. Tie off the threads.

• Remove the button from the button holder.

Tip: In order to prevent damaging the

bartack by cutting open the buttonhole,

insert a pin into the bartack.




38

Hemming with the twin needleTopstitching work can be carried out on normal and stretch materials with the twin needle.

Professional hems on T-shirts, knitwear and cycling shorts can be sewn quickly and easily with the twin needle. The twin needle is available in various widths. Please ensure that you use the jersey needle for stretch fabrics!

• First fold and iron the width of fabric de-sired for the hem.

• Topstitch the hem from the face side.

• Cut the protruding hem edge fabric close to the seam.

Tip: On difficult materials such as

ribbed knitwear it is advisable to baste

the hem before topstitching it.

Threading the twin needle• Place a spool on each of the spool pins.

• Pass both of the threads through thethread guides (c.f. page 16).

• Lay the threads behind the thread guides (15) and (16) and thread one of the threads into each of the right and left needles.




39

Smocking effect with elastic threadsFine, light fabrics such as batiste, rayon and silk are especially suitable for beauti-ful smocking work. For smocking work with elastic thread you should use an ad-ditional bobbin case and wind it by hand with the elastic thread. As the elastic thread is much stronger than the normal bobbin thread, the tension of the bobbin case must be set very loose. Don t forget however, the higher the bobbin thread tension, the tighter the gathering effect.

• Sew a test seam to determine the level of gather.

• Mark the rst line on the face side of the fabric and sew along it.

• Each additional seam can be sewn at a presser foot s width from the rst row.

• When sewing several seams next to one another, you must stretch the fab-ric to its original length when sewing the subsequent seams. Otherwise the gather will be irregular.

• Knot the threads at the beginning and end of the seam on the reverse side.




40

Gathering with the straight stitchWith program B you can gather sleeves, skirts and valances with a stitch length of 4 mm. To ensure a consistent gathering effect you should sew two or three rows of gathers.

• Mark the rst line on the face side of the fabric and sew along it. Allow the threads to extend approx. 10-20 cm be-yond the ends of the fabric.

• Each subsequent seam can be sewn one presser foot width from the last.

• Gather the piece of fabric by pulling the bobbin thread. You determine the amount of gather by how much you pull the thread.

• Secure the gathers by knotting the thread ends.




41

Models 1032, 1042: stitch E stretch

Gathering with the elastic threadSleeve and waist seams can be gathered with ease using an elastic thread. The elastic thread does not have to be wound onto the bobbin.

• Mark the rst gathering seam on the reverse side of the fabric.

• Sew a few stitches using the honey-comb stitch and leave the needle in the fabric. The needle must be in the middle of the presser foot. Raise the presser foot and lay the elastic thread around the needle.

• Lower the presser foot and sew a few stitches. Pull the elastic thread evenly at both ends.

• You determine the amount of gather by the amount you pull the threads.

• The gather can also be altered after sewing by pulling the ends of the elastic threads.

• Knot the threads and the elastic to se-cure the gathers.

Tip: The cording foot (special ac-

cessories) is particularly suitable for

gathering. Due to its guide grooves the

elastic is fed evenly during the sewing

process.




42

Darning with the elastic stitch EDarning with the elastic stitch is especially suitable for repairing damaged areas.

• Sew over the damaged area in rows un-til it is well covered. Take care to ensure that the rows overlap.

Sewing on patchesTo cover larger holes well, it is neces-sary to sew a new piece of fabric onto the damaged area.

• Baste the new piece of fabric onto thedamaged area of the face side of thefabric.

• Sew over the fabric edges with the elas-tic stitch.

• Trim the damaged area back to the seam from the reverse side of the fab-ric.

Tip: To simplify turning the corners of

the patch, turn the handwheel until the

needle is in the fabric. Raise the press-

er foot and pivot the fabric.




43

Repairing tearsOn tears, frayed edges or small holes it is useful to lay a piece of fabric under the reverse side of the fabric. The underlaid fabric reinforces the workpiece and en-sures you a perfect repair.

• Lay a piece of fabric underneath the material. It must always be a little larger than the damaged area.

• Sew over the damaged area in accord-ance with the size of the tear.

• Trim the underlaid piece of fabric back to the seam.




44

Inserting centered zippers(concealed on both sides)• Attach the zipper foot to the right side.

• Baste or pin the zipper in place and position it under the presser foot so that the teeth run along the side of the presser foot.

• Sew in half of the zipper, leaving theneedle in the material. Raise the press-er foot and close the zipper.

• You can now sew the rest of the seam to the end of the zipper and stitch the cross-wise seam.

• Sew the second half of the zipper paral-lel, the same distance from the center seam as the rst half.

• Stop shortly before the end of the seam and leave the needle in the material. Raise the presser foot and open the zipper.

• You will now be able to complete the seam.

Sewing in zippersThere are different ways to sew in zip-pers. For skirts we recommend inserting a centered zipper. For men s or ladies pants (trousers), a lapped zipper works best. Different types of zippers are availa-ble in retail stores: invisible, metal, plastic, jeans and outerwear to name a few. We recommend metal zippers for heavier fab-rics such as jeans. For all other materials a plastic zipper will work well and create a softer nish to your completed garment.

For all types of zip-pers it is important to sew close to the teeth of the zipper. The zipper foot can be engaged in the foot holder to the left or right, depend-ing on the method of insertion. If the foot is attached on the left, you can also use the needle position “left” (c.f. page 27).




45

Trouser zippers• Press the left front seam allowance

over 1/8 (4 mm) narrower than the ac-tual seam allowance.

• Baste the zipper under the overlapping edge so that the teeth are still visible.

• Engage the zipper foot on the right and set the needle to the required position.

• Stitch close to the edge of the zipper teeth.

• Shortly before the end of the seam, open the zipper and nish sewing the seam.

• Close the zipper and baste the overlap evenly onto the other zipper half.

• Stitch along the basted seam.

Tip: To achieve accurate seams we rec-

ommend using the edge guide (special

accessories).




46

Roll hemmingWith the roll hemmer (special accesso-ries) you can nish the edge of blouses, scarves, or ruf es without having to iron the edges beforehand. Hemming prevents the edges from fraying and produces a neat and durable edge nish.

• Double-fold the fabric edge(about 1/8 /2mm per fold).

• Place the folded fabric edge under the hemmer and sew a few straight stitches B, stitch length 2.5-3 mm, to secure.

• Leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and insert the fabric into the hemmer foot scroll.

• Lower the presser foot and while sew-ing, guide the fabric edge evenly into the hemmer. Ensure the fabric does not run underneath the right side of the presser foot.

Tip: On silk, viscose and chiffon fab-

rics, the roll hem is particularly attrac-

tive with a zigzag stitch.




47

Lace-work

Lace insertsA beautiful heirloom effect can be achieved on christening wear, children s clothes and other garments with lace in-serts.

• Baste the lace to the face side of the fabric.

• Stitch very close to both edges of the lace using straight stitch.

• Carefully slit the fabric behind the lace at the center. Press these edges to-wards the garment.

• Overstitch both edges of the lace with a small zigzag stitch.

• Cut away the excess fabric on the back of your project.

Lace edges with cornersTablecloths, napkins and clothing can all be beautifully enhanced with lace trim-mings.

• Serge/clean- nish the fabric edges.

• Stitch the lace onto the face side of the fabric up till the rst corner.

• Fold over the corners and stitch them diagonally.

• Continue until all edges are stitched.




48

Shell edgingThe shell edge is very effective for thin, soft fabrics such as silk and rayon fabric. It is frequently used as an edge nish on undergarments.The higher the needle thread tension, the deeper the shell edge feed.• Serge the fabric edge and iron over the

seam allowance.

• Make sure that the fabric runs under the presser foot at half of the foot width. This provides a more prominent shell edging effect.

Tip: If you add a colored pearl cotton

thread at the edge you can strengthen

the shell edging and obtain a pretty

contrast at the same time. Instead of

pearl cotton thread you can also place

a different colored light fabric under-

neath.



49

Traditional embroiderytechniquesCombined Borders 50

Embroidery with the twin needle 50

Hemstitching 52

Patchwork quilt 51

Richelieu 50



Traditional embroidery techniques

50

RichelieuThis very artistic form of bar and eyelet embroidery is easy to create with your sewing machine.

• Transfer your pattern onto the right side of the fabric using a fabric marker.

• Place two layers of water-soluble stabi-lizer under the area to be embroidered and tightly hoop the fabric and stabi-lizer.

• Attach foot number 0 to your machine.

• To make the embroidery more stable, sew all of the contours twice using the straight stitch (stitch length approx. 1 mm).

• Carefully cut away the fabric from the areas that will form the cutouts approxi-mately 1/8 (2 mm) from stitching. Do not cut away the stabilizer – it helps maintain the shape and stability of the areas whilesewing.

• Embroider the contours with a satin stitch zigzag.

• When all satin stitching is completed, tear away large areas of water-soluble stabilizer and dissolve remaining small areas in water.

Combined Borders(model 1042 only)You can create borders of any width by combining different embroidery programs.

Tip: Apply iron-on backing or other sta-

bilizer under the fabric.

Embroidering with the twin needle(model 1042 only)Additional embroidery effects can be achieved using a twin needle. To avoid needle breakage, the twin needle spac-ing must not exceed 2 mm and the stitch width must not be greater than 3 mm. A description of how to thread the twin nee-dle is found on page 38.




51

Patchwork quiltQuilting is a traditional hand sewing technique. The method that the wives of American settlers developed to make use of material remnants has become a very popular artistic hobby for many sewing enthusiasts.

Patchwork quilts used to be sewn exclu-sively by hand. Nowadays, however, you have the possibility to make your creative ideas a reality in a much shorter time.

A quilt always consists of three layers of material. Lots of geometrically shaped pieces of material are joined together in continually changing patterns to form the top layer of the quilt. This is tacked onto the middle layer of polyester or cotton bat-ting and connected to the back layer of the quilt. The quilt backing is usually one uniform piece of fabric.

And this is what you do• Cut out the pieces of your quilt top us-

ing templates you have bought or made yourself. A seam allowance of 1/4 (6.3 mm) should already be included in the templates.

• Spread these pieces out in front of you in accordance with the pattern and form small squares which you can then put together. These squares will then be sewn together and will form the top ply of the quilt.

• The seam allowances of quilts are usu-ally not serged and are always pressed towards the darker fabric side.

• Baste the completed quilt top to the batting and backing. In traditional quilts these three layers of material are then sewn together by hand with small stitch-es. However, it is quicker and more practical with the sewing machine, i.e. with the straight stitch. Quilting is usu-ally stitched about 3 mm away from the seam. Use foot number 0 or the quilt and patchwork foot (see page 58).

When the quilting is nished you can simply bind the edges or make it into cushions, wearable art or other smaller projects.




52

HemstitchingHemstitching is an old embroidery tech-nique and can be used to secure edges on table linen as well as for decoration on clothing. For your hemstitching work you will require a wing needle (special accessory) and coarse linen out of which you can easily pull the single threads. Furthermore, embroidery and darning thread is particularly suitable. With the stretch zigzag stitch you can sew various hemstitching techniques such as the wale hemstitch seam, a hem sewn with the hemstitch and a hemstitch seam as an edge. Use the normal presser foot (0).

Wale hemstitch seam• As with the hand hemstitch seam the

threads are pulled out to the desired width.

• Using a narrow stretch zigzag stitch, sew along both of the fabric edges. The needle must perforate the area of the pulled threads just next to the edges. This bundles the threads.

Hem edge sewn with hemstitch seam• Iron the hem over twice and pull one or

more threads out from above the hem.

• Using the stretch zigzag stitch, sew the hem from the face side. The nee-dle must perforate the hem on the right hand side and bundle the pulled threads on the left hand side.

Hemstitching seam as edgeThis edge is used for very ne, thin mate-rials. It is particularly suitable for valances and ruf es. No threads have to be pulled.

• Using the stretch zigzag stitch, sew at a presser foot s width along the edge of the fabric.

• Using a small pair of scissors, trim off the excess fabric on the hemstitch edge.



53

Accessories and needlesBias binder 56

Cording foot 57

Felling foot 57

Knit-edge foot 58

Needle chart 59, 60

Quilting and patchwork foot 58

Ruf er 56

Sewing feet (normal accessories) 54

Special accessories chart 55



Accessories and needles

54

Sewing feet (normal accessories)

0 Standard presser foot Part no: 98-694 847-00

3 Blind-stitch foot Part no: 98-694 845-00

4 Zipper foot Part no: 98-694 843-00

1 Fancy stitch foot (model 1042) Part no: 98-745 804-00200

5 Buttonhole foot (models 1022, 1032) Part no: 98-694 882-00

R Buttonhole foot (model 1042) Part no: 98-745 801-00/900

Screwdriver Part no: 93-040 971-41

Bobbins Part no: 93-040 970-45

Machine oil Part no: 93-035 910-91

Knife Part no: 99-053 016-91

Needle system Part no: 48-020 804-32130/705 H




55

Sewing feet (special accessories)The special accessories are for special sewing work. They are available from your dealer.

Designation Order no. Sewing work

Pintuck foot with guide 820224-096 For embroidering areas between pintucks

Pintuck foot, 5 grooves 820226-096 For pintuck work(twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-2.0)

Pintuck foot, 7 grooves 820227-096 For pintuck work(twin needle with needle spacing 1.6-2.0) (needle size 80)

Straight stitch foot with round hole 820235-096 Attention! Only use straight stitch in needle position middle

Finger guard 820236-096 For all sewing work

Edge guide 820251-096 For topstitching

Felling foot 4.5 mm 820218-096 For at felled seams

Felling foot 6.5 mm 820219-096 For at felled seams

Fancy stitch foot 820229-096 Multiple uses e.g. for buttonholes

Ruf er 820255-096 For sewing dense(remove presser foot holder) or broad pleats on valances etc.

Cording foot 820234-096 For cording

Quilt foot 820212-096 For sewing patchwork parts and quilting

Roll hemmer 2 mm 820220-096 For hemming edges

Hemmer 4 mm 820221-096 For hemming edges

Hemmer 820249-096 For hemming edges

Bias binder 820245-096 For binding edges with bias tape

Knit-edge foot 820216-096 For sewing together knitwear

Non-stick foot 820240-096 For sewing leather

The following pages contain application examples of some special accessory feet.




56

Bias tape binderBinding with bias tape is a very easy method of giving fabric edges a smooth and neat appearance. For this you need unfolded bias tape about 1 (24 mm) wide.

• Remove the presser foot and holder. At-tach the bias binder.

• Cut the beginning of the bias tape at adiagonal.

• Feed the tape into the scroll of the binder and pull out to the back.

• Adjust the binder and/or the needle position so that the needle pierces the fabric approximately 1/16 (1-1.5 mm) from the folded edge of the bias tape.

• Stitch about 1 (2.5 cm) along the bias tape.

• Insert the edge of the fabric to be bound between the bias tape edges into the slot of the binder. The bias tape will en-close the raw edge automatically during sewing.

Tip: You can obtain an additional deco-

rative effect by using a zigzag or fancy

stitch.

Ruf erWith the ruf er you can make closely or widely spaced pleats automatically while sewing. This is very useful for ruf es, frills, home textiles, etc.

The ruf er can be used in three different ways:

1. Folding and securing pleats in fabric.

2. Folding pleats in fabric and securing to a second fabric in one operation.

3. Folding pleats in fabric, attaching lace and securing to another fabric in one operation.

When you buy the ruf er from your PFAFF dealer, full operating instructions are included.




57

Felling footFlat felled seams are particularly strong and are commonly known as jeans seams. Seams on sportswear and chil-dren s wear, blouses and shirts are more durable with this technique. You can make these seams particularly decorative by us-ing a sewing thread of a contrasting color. The felling foot is available in two different widths.

• Attach the felling foot to the presser foot holder.

• Place the fabrics wrong sides together.

• Overlap the raw edge of the lower ply by about 3/8 to 5/8 (1-1.5 cm).

• Place this overlapping edge over thetongue of the felling foot. The fabric must be placed fully under the presser foot.

• Sew along the folded edge with a straight stitch (stitch length 2.5-3 mm).

• Separate the fabric and feed the pro-truding hem into the felling foot. The hem is turned over by the foot and is overstitched along the edge. Pull the two fabric layers taut during sewing.

Cording footCording is a technique in which pearl thread or a ne cord is overstitched to produce a purl seam. With this you can obtain an effect similar to braiding. Ap-pliqués can also be made more effective with this seam.

• Attach the cording foot.

• Place the pearl thread in the foot so it leads through one of the grooves at the front and lies under the presser foot at the back.

• Select a narrow satin zigzag stitch.

Model 1022, 1032: Select stitch D with the pattern adjustment button (9) and then the zigzag stitch in the required width. Set stitch length to “buttonhole”.

Model 1042: Select stitch D with the pattern adjustment button (9). Set stitch length to “buttonhole” and stitch width to “2”.

• Overstitch the pearl thread with a nar-row satin zigzag stitch. This produces what is known as the purl seam.

Tip: You can also obtain a remarkable

effect by overstitching a medium pearl

thread with a thread of a different color.




58

Knit-edge footAs the knit-edge foot has a presser foot sole of varying height, thick knitted fabrics can be sewn with ease. To do so select the open or the closed overlock stitch (models 1032 and 1042) or the zigzag stitch. In order to obtain a perfect seam on knit fabrics, we recommend oversew-ing a wool thread, pulled slightly taut, into the seam. This will give the seam addi-tional strength and keep it from stretching out of shape.

Quilt and patchwork footThe quilt and patchwork foot allows you to sew accurate 1/4 or 1/8 seams. The distance from the needle to the outer right edge of the foot is 1/4 (0.63 cm) and to the inner right edge 1/8 (0.31 cm).

Patching

• Attach the quilt and patchwork foot.

• Sew together your pieces of fabric with the straight stitch. For a seam allow-ance of 1/4 , guide your fabric along the outer right edge of the foot. For a seam allowance of 1/8 , guide your fabric along the inner right edge of the foot.

Quilting(Sewing through the top layer, eece layer and bottom layer of the quilt)

• Sew the three layers of the quilt (e.g. with the straight stitch) approx. 3 mm from the seam line.




59

Needle chartSelection of the right needle guarantees better sewing of the chosen material

Fabric weight Fabric weight Fabric weight light medium heavy

Needle Needle Needle 60 70 75 80 90 100 110 120

System & No. Profile Point and eye Suitable for

130/705 H Light Universal needle for linen, chiffon,Needle size 60-130 ball point batiste, organdy, woolens, velvet, fancy seams and embroidery.

130/705 H-SUK Medium Coarse knitted fabrics, Lastex, double-Needle size 70-100 ball point knit, jersey fabrics, Quiana and Simplex.

130/705 H-PS Medium Stretch-fabric needle particularlyNeedle size 75-100 ball point suitable for stretch and knitted fabrics.

130/705 H-SKF Large Wide-meshed corsetry, Lycra, SimplexNeedle size 90-110 ball point and Lastex.

130/705 HJ Sharp Twill, workwear, heavy linen-fabrics,Needle size 90-110 round point blue jeans, light canvas and sailcloth.

130/705 H-LR Narrow twist Leather, suede, calf goat skin.Needle size 80-100 point (right)

130/705 H-PCL Narrow wedge Imitation leather, plastics,Needle size 80-110 point (left) foils and oilcloth.

130 H-N Light ball Topstitching with buttonhole silk orNeedle size 70-110 point with synthetic threads no. 30/3. long eye

130/705 H-WING Hemstitching Effective hemstitching on batiste,Needle size point organdy and glass cambric.100/120

130/705 H-E Medium Especially for embroidery.Needle size 75/90 ball point

130/705 H-Q Small Top-stitched seams for quilting.Needle size 80/90 ball point

130/705 H-M Sharp For working on microtex fiber.Needle size 60-80 round point

Needle points




60

Classification Stitch length Stitch width Needle Suitable for spacing

130/705 H-ZWI 2.5 mm – 1.6 mm normal pintucksSize: 80 2.5 mm – 2.0 mm normal pintucks

130/705 H-ZWISize: 80 2.5 mm – 2.5 mm wide pintucksSize: 90 2.5 mm – 3.0 mm extra wideSize: 100 3.0 mm – 4.0 mm pintucks

Ornamental stitch patterns / zigzag patterns


130/705 H-ZWISize: 80 0.5-1.5 mm wide 1.6 mm embroiderySize: 80 0.5-1.5 mm narrow 2.0 mm embroiderySize: 80 0.5-1.5 mm narrow 2.5 mm embroidery

Hem stitch/special twin needle


130/705H-ZWI-HO Size: 80 2.3-3.0 mm very narrow – DecorativeSize: 100 2.0-3.0 mm very narrow – hem stitch effect. Well-finished woven fabric and fine batiste are particularly suitable

Fancy patterns with twin needlesBefore sewing the desired embroidery stitches, check whether needles can penetrate freely, by turning the handwheel. In this way, needle breakage is avoided as much as possible.

Needle chart



61

Maintenance and troubleshootingChanging the sewing lamp 63

Cleaning and oiling 62

Removing the needle plate 63

Troubleshooting 64



Maintenance and troubleshooting

62

Removing the hook


To unlock the hook, fold open the black bar of the hook race. Take out the bobbin case.

Note: Turn the handwheel (7) until the

needle is at its highest position.

Pull the hook cover ring out towards you.

You can now remove the hook. Cleaning and oiling• Clean the hook race with the brush.

• Place one drop of oil into the hook race (every 15-20 hours of operation).

The machine is maintenance-free and must not be oiled at any other points.




63

Removing the needle plateRaise the presser foot holder (26) and remove the presser foot. The needle must be at its highest position.

• Remove the detachable work support (13). Loosen the two screws with the screwdriver and lift the needle plate (14).

• Clean the feed dog (22) with the brush.

Changing the sewing lamp.


• Remove the detachable work support (13). The sewing lamp (bulb) is located inside the needle head of the machine. Turn the bulb half a rotation counter clock-wise and remove the bulb. Insert the bulb in the reverse order.

Important! The maximum permissible

wattage of the bulb is 15 watts.




64

Sewing problems and their solutions

Problem/Cause Remedy

1. The machine skips stitches The needle is not properly inserted. Push needle fully upwards. Flat side facing the back. Wrong needle is in use. Use needle system 130/705 H. Needle is bent or blunt. Insert a new needle. The machine is not properly threaded. Check how the machine is threaded. Needle is too small for thread. Use a larger needle.

2. Needle thread breaks See reasons above. See above. Thread tension is too tight. Adjust thread tension. Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or has Only use good quality threads. become dry after overlong storage. Thread is too thick. Use needle with large eye (system 130 N).

3. Needle breaks off Needle is not pushed fully in. Insert new needle and push fully in. Needle is bent. Insert new needle. Needle is too thick or too thin. See needle table (Page 59, 60). Needle is bent, and has hit the needle Only guide the fabric lightly. plate because you are pulling or pushing the fabric. The bobbin case is not properly inserted. When you insert the bobbin case, push it fully into the stop. Pull lightly on the end of the thread to make sure bobbin case is secure.

4. The seam is sewn unevenly The tension needs adjusting. Check needle thread tension. Thread is too thick, slubbed or hard. Only use good quality threads. The bobbin thread is unevenly wound. Do not wind thread by hand. Make sure thread is pulled solidly into bobbin tension spring. Thread loops at top or underside of fabric. Re-thread machine. Check the needle thread tension.

5. The machine does not feed or feeds irregularly Sewing lint has collected between Remove needle plate, the feed dog teeth rows. remove lint with brush.

6. The machine is running with dif culty There are thread remnants Remove the threads and apply a drop in the hook ways. of oil to the hook.

Important notes: Before changing presser feet and needle the master switch must be

switched off. Do not attempt to sew without fabric under the presser foot.

When leaving the machine, even for only a short time, switch off the master switch.

This is important if there are any children nearby.



Technical Data

Dimensions (w x h x d) 392 x 149 x 296 mmWeight 6,6 kgNominal voltage 120 V / 220...240 VPower consumption 80 WSewing lamp 15 WSewing speed max. 900 stitches / min.Stitching width max. 5 mmStitching length max. 4 mmPresser foot lift 5 mmMax. presser foot height 11,5 mmNeedle system 130 / 705 H

Package contents

Sewing machineCarrying caseFoot controlLead cordAccessoriesInstruction manual

Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to electrical/electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance



296-

29-0

0 31

1/00

0E •

Eng

lish

• In

ho

use

• ©

200

2-20

07

VS

M G

rou

p A

B •

All

rig

hts

res

erve

d •

Pri

nte

d in

Sw

eden

on

en

viro

nm

enta

l-fr

ien

dly

pap

er



Инструкция к Pfaff Hobby 1042

Education

Transcript of Инструкция к Pfaff Hobby 1042