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25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifleby irwinner on September 13, 2007

Table of Contents

25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro:   25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1:   The Parts... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 2:   The Chamber... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 3:   Gun Body... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 4:   The Stock and The Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Step 5:   The Bolt and Barrel Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Step 6:   Scope Mount and Other Add-ons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Step 7:   Trigger assemlby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

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Intro:  25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifle***Disclaimer*** The following is for informational purposes only, i take no responsibility for what you do with this knowledge. i can not be held responsible for anyproperty or medical damages caused by this weapon. i would advise you to check your local laws. These types of guns are illegal in some areas, and i would highlyadvise you against building one of these in said areas. Pneumatic rifles can be very powerful and should never be pointed at a person or animal. Lastly when dealing withpneumatics never over pressurize them and always use NFS-PW pipe (as apposed to DWV)

well before we begin i must state a few things...

-PVC can only be used at half or less than half the pressure rating stamped on the pipe when pressurized gases are used in the pipe-i would suggest never pressurizing this cannon above 150 psi, remember its only plastic-never store any type of PVC pneumatic with pressure still in it-always allow a full 24hours for PVC glue to dry before pressurizing-when building pneumatics always use metal or PVC pipe (never ABS)-PVC is shock sensitive meaning if its dropped on a hard its very likely it will be damaged and it would be very dangerous to pressurize after damaged-PVC becomes very brittle below 32 degrees (Fahrenheit) and is very likely to explode if pressured in such conditions-when building pneumatics pressure rated pipe should always be used (none of that cell core or DWV crap)-the most important part of any pneumatic are the PVC welds AND I HIGHLY SUGGEST YOU READ THIS TUTORIAL before you even think about starting this.-when you are dealing with high velocity projectiles always remember you safety glasses-always be sure of your back stop when shooting any form of rifle, pistol, gun, bow.... anything that can fire some vague form of projectile-and use common sense!-do not use un-regulated HPA or CO2 in a PVC cannon ever they are stored at to high of pressures to be safe in PVC, but if you have a properly regulated setup theycan be used ( if you lower the pressure to about 100psi)

Now onto the good part...

this is my entry for the launch it challenge, it is a 25MM Pneumatic Cannon. it has 2.5 foot long one inch diameter barrel with a custom bolt action mechinism, of coursewe have the 3-9X40 sniper scope, and a 1" modified sprinkler valve as the primary firing valve.

The Video...

Video

invalid movie: http://youtube.com

remember always wear safety goggles, you never know where or when something will ricochet especially when its traveling at 300+FPS

Fun Fact: PVC shards can't be picked up by X-Rays (this is a safety tip! don't rush or you'll get a PVC shard in you and you probably wont get it out. im not saying youshould sneak one of these into your luggage and go threw airport security. it would be way to big any way)

better video coming soon

If you like this instructable please register and vote for it in the launch it challenge (by click the plus icon next to the title)

DETAILED SPECS

power source------------------compressed airpower source pressure-----100psichamber volume--------------45 ci (approx.)barrel volume------------------25 ci (approx.)c/b ratio--------------------------1.8 to 1(approx.)firing valve----------------------pneumatically actuated sprinkler valve (a "modded sprinkler" valve)pilot valve-----------------------blow gun valvefill valve--------------------------female quick disconnectfire rate--------------------------single shot, bolt actioncaliber---------------------------25MM ( one inch)projectile velocity-------------unknown (coming soon)effective range----------------unknown (coming soon)maximum range-------------unknown (coming soon)optics---------------------------3-9X40MM rifle scopeprimary material used------PVC pipe

I WOULD SUGGEST YOU DO SOME RESEARCH BEFORE UNDER TAKING THIS PROJECT, LOOK INTO THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF PIPE AND THERERATINGS, HOW TO SOLVENT WELD PVC (THIS IS A MUST), HOW TO PROPERLY DRILL AND THREAD HOLES FOR FITTINGS, THE TYPE OF CONDITIONSPVC CAN BE USED AND STORED IN. THE MAJORITY OF THIS INFORMATION IS CONTAINED WITHIN THIS INSTRUCTABLE BUT IT IS BECOMING CLEARTHAT MANY OF YOU ARE NOT READING ALL OF IT. I HAVE ONE FINAL SUGGESTION BUILT A BASIC PNEUMATIC OR COMBUSTION FIRST IF A BASICCANNON FAILS IT WILL BE LESS DANGEROUS

PS - DON'T ATTEMPT THIS AT ALL IF YOU HAVE NO COMMON SENSE OR A LOW IQ

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http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

Step 1: The Parts...we will be making this particular pneumatic out of mostly PVC so it is relatively inexpensive to make. here is what your going to need.

Parts...

( 1x ) 2" PVC cap( 1x ) 2" PVC coupling( 1x ) 2" to 1" PVC bushing( 2x ) 1.5" PVC couplings( 2x ) 1.5" to 1" PVC bushings( 1x ) 1" PVC tee( 2x ) 1" PVC 90 degree elbows( 2x ) 1" PVC male threaded adapters( 1x ) 1" to .75" bushing( 1x ) .75" PVC cap( 1x ) .75" PVC tee( 3x ) .75" PVC 45 degree elbows( 2x ) .75" PVC 90 degree elbows( 1x ) female quick disconnect 1/4"( 2x ) 3/8" by 1/4" compression fittings( 1x ) blowgun valve( 1x ) 1" sprinkler vlavea few inches of 1/4" ID flexible tubbingassorted bits of 2", 1.5", 1", and .75" pipe

Tools...

a dremela band sawa drill (preferably a drill press)PVC primer (make sure its primer and not cleaner or it could end badly)PVC glue

Image Notes1. a pre-modded sprinkler valve2. quick disconnect3. compression fitting

Step 2: The Chamber...REMEMBER READ THIS BEFORE STARTING and read all of it!

The chamber in a pneumatic cannon is a buffer zone between the valve and the bike pump/ compressor. It allows a large amount of air to be stored and exhausted veryquickly when fired.

this is my chamber, it is a 12 inch long piece of 2" PVC pipe with a 2" cap on one side and a 2" coupling on the other, attached to the 2" coupling is a 2" to 1" reducingbushing. After the chamber was glued i let it sit for an hour (so the glue could partially cure) then i drilled a 1/2" hole in the side of the 2" cap so i could thread in the brassquick disconnect. do not use any Teflon tape on this fitting, if it starts leaking put some epoxy putty or JB weld on the section where the threads meet the chamber.

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Image Notes1. cutting 2" pipe using a hack saw, a band saw would be faster but the hack sawwas easier to find

Image Notes1. 2" to 1" reducing bushing2. 2" coupling3. 2" cap4. 12 inches of 2" pipe

Image Notes1. a properly primmed joint that is about to be glued, note the blue tape thatprevents the ugly purple primmer from dipping down the pipe

Image Notes1. the 2" cap glued on

Image Notes Image Notes

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1. the last part to be glued to the chamber 1. completely glued chamber

Image Notes1. 1/2" hole being drilled on a high speed drill press with a vice grip

Image Notes1. yay its finished

Step 3: Gun Body...the gun body connect the chamber to the valve and all the other parts of the gun (trigger, stock, ect)

first cut a piece of PVC double the length of a 1" socket and glue it into one of the 1" PVC elbows. then insert a a long piece of 1" pipe into the 1" elbow and the 1" tee(but don't glue it) this will help you get the joint between the 1" elbow and 1" tee perfectly straight. now glue the short piece of pipe sticking out of the the 1" elbow into thebase of the 1" tee, use the long pieces of pipe to make the joint as straight as possible or the barrel will be off to the left or right of the gun. next is a rather odd step listenclosely, i want you to glue the outside of the 3/4" end cap into the the back of the 1" tee. there are two things you want to remember here not all end caps will work do adry test before you glue it and this is the part where the stock is connected to the body so make sure you insert the cap the right way (so the socket part is facingoutwards making it possible to insert a piece of 3/4" pipe). next cut 7" piece of 1" pipe and glue it into the remaining socket of the 1" elbow.now cut a short piece of pipeand connect one of the male adapters to the remaining socket of the 1" Tee. the last piece your going to need a dremel for you need to modify one of the 1" 90 degreeelbows to it can slid along a 1" piece of pipe relatively easy. sadly there is no trick to doing this your just going to need to take of a little material at a time until you get itjust right. once the elbow has been modified glue the 1" to 3/4" reducing bushing into its unmodified socket then slide it onto the 7" long piece of pipe which is now gluedin place. then glue the other side of the 7" long pipe to the chamber. you have now finished the body of the gun.

Image Notes1. modified 1" 90 degree elbow2. 1" 90 degree elbow with short pipe glued into it3. 1" Tee4. 3/4" cap5. 1" male threaded adapter6. the chamber

Image Notes1. 90 degree elbow with a short piece of pipe glued into it

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Image Notes1. this joint shouldn't be glued (yet)2. this joint shouldn't be glued (yet)3. 1" elbow4. 1" Tee

Image Notes1. once this joint is glued the two pieces of pipe can be remved

Image Notes1. 3/4 cap with the OUTSIDE primed2. back of 1" tee

Image Notes1. 3/4" cap glued in place with socket facing out

Image Notes Image Notes

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1. this is a joint thats is about to be glued note the use of tape again2. 7" long piece of 1" diameter pipe

1. 7" long pipe glued in place

Image Notes1. modified 1" elbow2. normal 1" elbow

Image Notes1. modified 1" elbow2. normal 1" elbow

Image Notes1. modified 1" elbow2. normal 1" elbow

Image Notes1. modified 1" elbow slid over the 7" long piece of pipe

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Image Notes1. male threaded adapter with a short piece of pipe glued in it

Image Notes1. joint that is about to be glued

Image Notes1. male threaded adapter glued in place2. preparing to glue chamber and body toogether

Step 4: The Stock and The Valvenow build the stock, you should be able to figure it out using the pictures, i don't have any specific length measures becuase i just kinda guessed. the stock is one of thefew thing that do not need to be glued although it would be a good idea to do so. also you can use whatever design you want be creative find a combination that lookscool. in case you wonder this is what you needed the ( 1x ) .75" PVC tee,( 3x ) .75" PVC 45 degree elbows, ( 2x ) .75" PVC 90 degree elbows were for...

onto the valve, my valve is an orbit jar top that i have modded. normally it would be triggered by an electronic pulse but this does not allow the valve to open quickly so imodified to to run completely pneumatically , there are many tutorials on how to do this for example here is one here is another. if you cant figure out how to mod thevalve i suppose you can buy one from here , i know the guy who runs that place hes not going to scam you and his work is very good quality. anyway to install a sprinklervalve on this particular cannon aply a good amount of Teflon tape to the 1" threaded adapter then remove the top of the valve and screw on the valve itself.then go aheadand put back on the top. do not put on the blowgun as of yet.

side note: be sure to put the sprinkler valve on the right way, becuase it will only work in one direction. there should be an arrow some where on it indication the directionof flow, remember the air is going to be flowing from the chamber to the barrel

Image Notes1. stock made entirely from 3/4" PVC

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Image Notes1. part of the compression fitting2. other part of compression fitting, note the order i put the part on the hose3. don't use this tubing its not pressure rated instead use the more opaque kindwhich is rated to a much higher psi. i have since replaced this on my gun

Image Notes1. compression fitting screwed on to the valve

Image Notes1. applying Teflon to the 1" male adpater

Image Notes1. valve with top removed so it could be screwed on to the body of the gun

Image Notes1. valve with top put back on

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Image Notes1. How a Sprinkler Valve works

Step 5: The Bolt and Barrel Assemblyin this particular bolt assembly the barrel moves with the bolt which could cause accuracy problems if the bushing is not modified correctly. but anyway its a modifiedversion of THIS . the first thing you need to do is attach a 14 inch long piece of 1.5", then use epoxy putty to attach it to a piece of wood. This will make it a lot easier tocut, then you need draw a box that is about 10 inches long (refer to the pictures if you are confused). this will be the line you cut along with the band saw after the box hasbeen cut out you will need to cut off the last inch on each side where the epoxy was holding the pipe to the wood. after the excess has been cut off each side attach a1.5" coupling to each side. next you will need to modify the 1.5" to 1" bushings so that a piece of pipe can be slide completely through them with relative ease. in a stockbushing there is a stopper at the end off the bushing that prevents pipe from going all the way through. this will need to be ground off with a dremel, you might also haveto also slightly enlarge the 1" socket of the bushing also. after the bushing have been modified glue them into the 1.5" bushings. then take a1.5inch long piece of 1" PVCand glue it into the 1" male threaded adapter and insert it into one of the bushings (it doesn't matter which). then cut a small notch into one side off the end of the boltassembly (this doesn't make much sense so just look at the picture)

now we must build the the actual bolt handle; it's one of the simpler pieces. it is a hose clamp with a hole drilled through it and a dowel held in place with a wood screw. itdoes take a bit a measuring and test fitting to get the hole in the right place, but its worth the time to get it right. after you have screwed the handle onto the clamp insertthe barrel into the bushing then put the hose clamp on it loosely. now force the barrel as far back as it can go, you should notice that it can actually go into the otherbushing and it is very important that it does. once this is complete, tighten the clamp onto the barrel very tightly.

note : you can make the barrel pretty much however long as you want it. mine was 2 and a half feet of 1" pipe

Image Notes1. epoxy putty2. epoxy putty

Image Notes1. the "box" you need to cut out approx. 10 inches long

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Image Notes1. i removed the PVC from the wood using a 5lb weight but it would have beeneasier to cut off the last inch on both sides

Image Notes1. the cut marks2. cut mark

Image Notes1. modified piece of 1.5" inch pipe2. 1.5" coupling3. 1.5" coupling4. 1.5" to 1" bushing5. 1.5" to 1" bushing

Image Notes1. pipe with couplings glued on

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Image Notes1. 1" male threaded adapter with a short piece of pipe glued into it2. 1.5" to 1" bushing

Image Notes1. inserting the bushing into the coupling

Image Notes1. stock bushing note the small ring in the 1" socket2. modified bushing with ring removed by dremel, it has also been enlarged abit (hard to tell)

Image Notes1. the hose clamp as the hole is being drilled (1/8" bit)

Image Notes1. hose clamp2. screw3. dowel

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Image Notes1. what it looks like after everything has been tightened and the dowel is cutdown to the right length

Image Notes1. insert the barrel like shown before putting on the hose clamp

Image Notes1. finished bolt assembly note the small notch i cut with a dremel that is used tolock the bolt in postion

Image Notes1. bolt in the forward position

Image Notes1. hose clamp tightly on the barrel2. excess bit of hose clamp, can be cut off using wire cutters or tin snips

Image Notes1. the bolt on the gun yow may need to take out the barrel to screw the boltassembly into the sprinkler valve (which means removing the hose clamp bolt

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handle temporarily)

Step 6: Scope Mount and Other Add-onsin this step i will discuss the additional parts that are not necessarily required but add a nice touch. my biggest recommendation is paint it makes the cannon look somuch better, it makes it look truly intimidating. if you do decide to paint it i would suggest using Krylon Fusion for plastic it gives a terrific finish. i went with ultra flat blackbut i bet a sweet camo paint job would look really nice on this. when you do paint i would suggest protecting the first 12inches of the barrel other wise the paint will makethe bolt very hard to operate (found out the hard way so don't get any paint on it)

barrel supports are small pieces of wood (in most cases) cut to the profile of the pipe, they add stability to the launcher when fired and take a great deal of stress off thejoints. i would highly recommend you make some for you own safety. i traced the outline of the pipes onto card board then transfered that to a piece of pine that was cutby my band saw to make mine.

next up is the scope, my particular scope was made for an airsoft gun (almost identical replicas of real guns ) and it used an RIS mounting system. this meant i needed aRIS rail to put on the body of the rifle. for me RIS rails are very common and easy to find becuase i happen to have about 10 semi working airsoft guns (i got them intrade for a piston valve). if you don't have any buy a crappy gun for $10-$20 off hobbytron.com or a similar supplier. the RIS rail was attached to the gun using 2 hoseclamps it took a bit off adjusting but eventually i could shoot the gun pretty accurately.

additional items to consider...

a "noise reducing barrel extension" *cough* silencer *cough* but if your caught with that your screwed and that is exactly why im not telling you how to make one.

a bi-pod, i have one from an AK support type gun but cant find a good way to mount it

laser sight, well it would only be useful at night

Image Notes1. note the blue tape protecting all threads and open pipe2. blue tape on quick disconnect

Image Notes1. barrel support

Image Notes1. barrel support on the gun

Image Notes1. painted barrel support

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Image Notes1. RIS rail from a cheap $10 mp72. hose clamp3. hose clamp

Image Notes1. RIS rail on the gun2. sprinkler valve3. stock

Step 7: Trigger assemlbythe trigger assembly consists of only a few parts but ti requires heavy modification. the first step is modifying a short 4 inch long piece of 3/4" pipe. you need to cut twoslots in it length wise so a blow gun valve can be inserted into it. it is rather hard to describe so just look at the pictures. the next part is the 3/4" 45 degree elbow, youneed to make a hole in it so you can connect a hose to the blow gun. once again refer to the pictures of this piece also but before you cut the hole remember to glue in ashort piece of PVC into th elbow. after the pieces have been modified connect the elbow up to the rest of the gun (using the 90 degree 1" elbow that was modified earlier)and hold in in place with a screw of some sorts (so the trigger doesn't twist to the side as your firing). once the elbow is secured on the gun feed the hose through thehole in it and connect up the blow gun valve. then your pretty much done, congratulation's you have a 25MM sniper capable of doing some serious damage

If you liked my instructable be sure to vote for it in the instructables launch it challenge

Image Notes1. standard piece of 3/4" PVC (4 inches long)2. modified 3/4" PVC

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Image Notes1. stock 3/4" elbow

Image Notes1. elbow with a short piece of pipe connected to it

Image Notes1. the hole, note its location and angle in relation to the short piece of pipe, itsvery important

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Image Notes1. blow gun valve in the modified piece of PVC (which is now painted) with astrange type of compression fitting which makes it a lot easier to hook up the hosein the next step

Image Notes1. elbow in the gun

Image Notes1. IMPORTANT : don't use this type of flexible tubing (the very clear kind) it isn'tpressure rated and if it burst it will cause the gun to fire automatically. instead usethe more opaque kind (almost white in color) its rated to 125psi

Image Notes1. the hole thing connected up

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Comments

50 comments Add Comment view all 899 comments

 cohlms says:  Feb 25, 2011. 10:45 AM  REPLYwhat does it fire or shoot ?

 bearzcrazy54 says:  Feb 14, 2011. 5:05 PM  REPLYhow much was this whole gun? can i use a paintball co2 tank instead of the PVC pipe

 LiliaBillia says:  Feb 11, 2011. 7:20 AM  REPLYThank you for the information! I was looking for more of your typical scope mount, but a little extra knowledge doesn't hurt!

 vermeu says:  Feb 9, 2011. 8:19 AM  REPLYThis sight is for real?

 hungyhipo 2 says:  Feb 7, 2011. 4:41 PM  REPLYI know this is not relevant but what scope is it, who is the maker, and where did you get it.

 fernandojuanjaimearturo says:  Feb 6, 2011. 11:27 AM  REPLY100psi ???? nooo or....

 SanAndres says:  Jan 25, 2011. 8:27 AM  REPLYHi irwinner I'm Andres from Ecuador....I have a problem.....Where I live I can't find the sprinkler valve, could you say me if there are any place where I canbuy that in the web, and, of course, that they could send me the product to Ecuador....thanks...!!I'm sorry my english is bad..

 ostomesto says:  Jan 11, 2011. 12:22 PM  REPLYHey im making an airgun/rifle instructable soon. Ill comment when I post it. Thanks to irwinner(author of this instructable) for the inspiration to this idea for it.its going to be awesome

 ostomesto says:  Jan 12, 2011. 5:12 PM  REPLYok it's up and posted and it's AWESOME. It's called the NAR-V1 which stands for pNuematic Air Rifle version 1. Thanks Irwinner agian you gave me theidea. Check it out rate comment and subscribe

 dinu555 says:  Dec 19, 2010. 7:38 AM  REPLYHey chief could you tell me how to make this work actually i.e. umm how does this thing get its power

 will772 says:  Dec 20, 2010. 4:36 PM  REPLYIt gets air pressure built up in the chamber; that little pipe under the barrel, then when you pull the trigger it releases the sprinkler valve that is holdingback the pressurized air. That pretty much is how the whole thing works, you can do it with tennis balls, potatoes, pretty much anything as long as youmake the barrel big enough and the PSI reading high enough.

 will772 says:  Dec 16, 2010. 4:40 PM  REPLYWhat kind of projectile does it fire? Airsoft or other?

 celticrush97 says:  Dec 9, 2010. 10:59 AM  REPLYwhats the total length of this gun?

 celticrush97 says:  Dec 10, 2010. 1:58 PM  REPLYalso what is the total length of the stock?

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 danzo227 says:  Dec 10, 2010. 11:35 AM  REPLYhi can you give me the name of the valae that you youesd thanks

 CaseBoy says:  Dec 3, 2010. 2:20 PM  REPLYwould it be possible to do the same thing with a 1/2"barrel

 ostomesto says:  Nov 30, 2010. 5:30 PM  REPLYhey will someone please help. i was going to make my own design of a air rifle but then i saw some of the designs other people had and ditched my old idea.But now im stuck. should i go for a wrap around or a straight barrel gun. I want to be able to add modifications and grips and crap like that. which way shouldi go for this.btw i have made a couple decent spud gun before so i am familer with all this but i just cant choose

 brum says:  Jun 28, 2010. 9:47 PM  REPLYHey can anyone please give me a hand, i have made my gun but even at 85 psi the diaphram wont pop up and let all the pressure through and i dunno y. itsnot the spring cos i took it out and it made no difference, u said u used 40 psi maybe the rubber is stiffer or the whole in the diaphram is too big just wannaget opinions.

 benduy says:  Nov 8, 2010. 9:56 PM  REPLYCHECK THE AIRFLOW

 brum says:  Jun 28, 2010. 9:51 PM  REPLYThis project cost me aproximately $80AU

 brum says:  Jun 30, 2010. 5:13 AM  REPLYNever mind i found that the hole in the diaphragm to let the air through and where the guide rod goes was to big a gap so i filled the sides of theguide rod with hot glue, and um, WOW WHAT A HOME-MADE WEAPON, CRAZY POWERFUL AT 80-85 PSI, HAVEN'T TRIED ABOVE THAT(compressor restrictions) highly recommend these concepts but be creative and come up with a slightly different way of doing it like I did. GOODLUCK TO ANYONE TRYING THIS! WELL WORTH IT WHEN U GET IT RIGHT...

 smartdanceer16 says:  Jun 17, 2010. 2:24 PM  REPLYAre there ways to edit/modify this to make it shoot 22mm ammo? I don't know much about all this stuff and I'm just helping a friend. Please help me(:

 benduy says:  Nov 8, 2010. 9:43 PM  REPLYrap it in duct tape, dude that would still be dangeroius

 qwertyman10 says:  Jul 11, 2010. 12:22 PM  REPLYhey, before you do that, couldnt you just use a sabot? it would prob be just as powerful and much quicker.

http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

 polabearboi says:  Jun 18, 2010. 7:15 PM  REPLYYes. You can forgoe the bolt system and just screw the threaded adapter into the other side of the sprinkler valve and our of that put a short piece of 1"pipe and then on the end of that pipe put whatever an reducing bushing to whatever size pipe you want.

 smartdanceer16 says:  Jun 21, 2010. 2:57 PM  REPLYThank you so much! I'll let him know what you said, and hopefully he can do it(:

 polabearboi says:  Jun 21, 2010. 3:07 PM  REPLYno problem.

 wolfgun says:  Nov 2, 2010. 2:28 AM  REPLYI LOVE THIS GUN I MADE!!

 ericquins says:  Sep 17, 2010. 8:28 PM  REPLYLooks cool and nice yet a little complicated. A pro work indeed. You can also check mine.

 abyrne45 says:  Sep 12, 2010. 12:37 PM  REPLYHow much did this thing cost to build.

 [corosive] says:  Aug 18, 2010. 8:26 PM  REPLYwhut! so cool. where did you get the scope?

 fredyvega10 says:  Aug 6, 2010. 5:19 PM  REPLYpero como lo consigo en lowes o en home depot como se llama para ir a lowes o home depot

 fredyvega10 says:  Jul 21, 2010. 10:35 AM  REPLYme podrian decir donde conseguir esa valvula verde o decir como se llama?????? porfavor

 BowHunter4life says:  Jul 29, 2010. 11:50 PM  REPLYes un modelo Orbit Agua-maestría 57020 con un adaptador dual macho en el extremo y los agujeros se llenan de JB Weld para llenar los agujeros paraevitar fugas usted lo puede encontrar en Lowes o Home Depot.

 arb1ter says:  Jul 28, 2010. 1:24 PM  REPLYIve been looking for a good design to make an airsoft sniper off of and i found it! Going to make so works with airsoft!

 iiiifreak says:  Jul 26, 2010. 3:48 PM  REPLYhello, I built the gun to what I thought was all according to specs but when I try to pressurize it, the air just circulates completely through the gun im assumingit has something to do with the sprinkler valve but I cant find the problem i removed the solenoid, plugged that hole drilled through the top and screwed in thebarbed adapter any suggestions?

 finmonster says:  Jul 20, 2010. 7:19 AM  REPLYnice

 fredyvega10 says:  Jul 17, 2010. 5:20 PM  REPLYPODRIAS PONER LO QUE SE NESESITA EN ESPAÑOL PORFAVOR

 sharkkiller says:  Jul 15, 2010. 7:04 AM  REPLYi made 1 in around an hour with smalller barrel hooked it up to air pressurizer thing killed a blackbird

http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

 samdaman says:  Jul 11, 2010. 8:22 PM  REPLYcould you have a smaller barrell and turn that into a really powerful paintball gun?

 qwertyman10 says:  Jul 11, 2010. 12:20 PM  REPLYDo you think it would be possible to add interchangeable barrels, like a 1/2 inch tube for shooting a piece of rebar and a threaded connection for addinganother tube for firing something like a soda can? as long as its possible, i can figure it out for myself.

 poosh507 says:  Jul 1, 2010. 3:44 AM  REPLYCOOL!!!!!!!

 tepetty4 says:  Jul 5, 2010. 6:14 AM  REPLYyou have to use what ever the sprinkler valve is rated to

 polabearboi says:  Jun 19, 2010. 7:27 AM  REPLYwhats the best way to modify that 3/4" piece of pipe?

 bombmaker2 says:  Jun 23, 2010. 6:07 PM  REPLYI used a scrollsaw for most of the cutting then when one slot got longer, I dremeled the rest out.

 PVCArmory says:  Jun 7, 2008. 3:06 PM  REPLYWhat is the estimated price of all the parts in USD if you have none of the parts already?

 GhostSade says:  Jun 15, 2010. 5:24 PM  REPLYI didn't really have many tools, I had to buy the dremel for this, plus everything else. I also had to buy two sprinkler valves, because I really badly messedup the first one. I spent like $130-$155 USD I think.

 willdebeers says:  Mar 3, 2010. 11:20 AM  REPLY $80

 whitish says:  Jun 13, 2008. 10:06 PM  REPLYwhen i got most of the parts from dixieline (not counting the sprinkley valve) i spent $50.21.

 raf34 says:  May 26, 2008. 9:06 PM  REPLYi found a way to silence the ugly wonk noise when you fire. you take a 1" coupling and you shave the outer layer w/ a dremmel or sand it until it can slide inand out of the barrel holding place. you glue it to the barrel, on the part that goes into the 1 1/2" pipe.I recommend you use water proof grease found inplumbing section so it slides in and out of barrel holding area. this way makes it alot more are tight an gets rid of the wonk noise

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