Post on 28-Dec-2015
Wine Flavor 101: The Impact of High Ethanol, Saignée and
Extended Maceration on Wine Phenolic Composition
Jim HarbertsonAssociate Professor
Washington State University
INTRODUCTION• INTRODUCTION
– Color– Tannins– Polymeric pigments
• TRENDS IN VITICULTURE/WINEMAKING– Saignée– Alcohol
• EXPERIMENTAL DATA• ASSESMENT• FUTURE DIRECTIONS
Phenolics-why we care
• Several Classes
• Contribute Sensory Characteristics of Wine
• Color- Anthocyanins and co-factors
• Astringency – Tannins and LPP
• Bitterness - Catechins
• Anti-oxidant Capacity- All phenolics especially those with ortho configuration.
Anthocyanins• pH Dependent• Copigmentation
– Self-association– Co-Factors
• Color Change– Hyper chromic shift (more
color)– Bathochromic shift (blue
color)• Ethanol?
– Disrupt association– Bathochromic shift– Partitioning of flavonols?
• Water?– Disruption, dilution
Seed Tannins• Very Abundant
– 3-5 mg/berry– Amount per seed
does not vary much• Decline During
Ripening• Average Length
– 10 sub-units• Astringent• Gallic Acid Ester
– Alters protein ppt.• Winemakers usually
avoid seed tannins
Skin Tannins• Not so abundant
– 0.5 -0.9 mg/berry
• Ripening: No specific pattern
• Average Length– 32 sub-units
• Astringent
• Unique sub-unit
• Winemakers want skin tannins
Polymeric Pigments
• Wine Artifact• Mixture
– Anthocyanins+ (tannins, keto-acids, cinnamates, etc.)
• More resistant to Sulfur dioxide
• Less pH sensitive• Color: brick-red
Rate of Extraction Graphic
REDRAWN FROM RIBÉREAU-GAYON 1970
Skin and Seed Tannin Extraction
• Pinot noir• Miniature (3L)• Skin Tannin
Extraction Fast and Plateaus
• Seed Tannin Extraction Slow but Linear Increase Demonstrated Redrawn from Calderon and Kennedy 2008
Polymeric Pigment Formation
ENHANCING PHENOLICS: TRENDS VITICULTURE
• VITICULTURE– SMALL BERRIES ARE DESIRED
• CLONAL SELECTION, SITE SELECTION• EXTENDED MATURATION
– SEED MATURATION– REMEMBER BERRY SHRINKS!
– IRRIGATION• EARLY STRESS, MORE TANNIC FRUIT
– LOCATION• EXAMPLES AVAILBLE
THE TREND in WA, CA?• Cab Family Fruit
– Want Brown Seeds, Less green aromas– Result: High Brix– Result: High pH—more K+, lower Malic
• Resulting Wine– High Ethanol– High pH, Low TA– Big Extraction– Lots of color, plenty of tannins– Astringency is muted by ethanol, acidity
How are tannins influenced by ethanol?
• Higher ethanol extracts more tannins?– Consensus says more “bad” seed tannins
• Bitterness?– Catechins are more bitter with more [EtOH]
• Astringency?– Thought that ethanol lowers astringency by
making protein-tannin complexes soluble– So more tannins but less “tannic?”
Hang Time Fruit Trend-2
• Small Berries with 25 Brix and above– Increase Skin/Seed: Juice– Problem: Water back necessary to avoid
stuck ferment– How to keep skin/seed: juice from hang time
fruit?
• Answer: Water back and Saignée at the same rate.– Sounds simple enough, right?
Complicated• Wait overnight for dried fruit to rehydrate• Take Brix Measure, Determine total
volume of tank– Convert all values to metric it is way easier!
• Calculate % of water to achieve target Brix• Bleed that percentage of juice• To calculate the amount of water to
achieve target Brix you must subtract amount bled off from total first.
• So the amount you bleed is greater than what you add back.
Math involved
• M1V1=M2V2
• [Brix]V1=[Brix]V2
• Brix = g/100 mL
• Convert Tank volumes to L
• Or you could convert Brix into pounds of sugar per gallon.
• Ewww.
Calculate the Run-off
Tank #1 Metric
1569.6 gallons 5940.9 L
28.4 Brix 284 g/L
Target Metric
1569.6 +X 5940.9 +X
24.1 Brix 241 g/L
So you bleed off 1060.L or 280 gallons for a total of 4840.9 L or 1289.6 gallons
X=1060.0 L
or 280 gallons
Now for the water addition
Tank #1 Metric
1289.4 gallons 4880.9 L
28.4 Brix 284 g/L
Target Metric
1569.6 +X 4940.9 +X
24.1 Brix 241 g/L
x=870.9 Lor 230 gallons
Experiment: High Ethanol
Treatment
Juice Removal
Water Addition (%)
Volume Change (%)
Initial Brix
Brix at Inoculation
Control 0 18.7 ±0.6 +18.7 28.3 ±0.2 24.3 ±0.9
High Ethanol
0 4.5 ±0.8 +4.5 28.0 ±0.2 26.8 ±0.6
Low Saignée
18.1 ±1.2 18.1 ±0.2 0 28.1 ±0.3 24.1 ±0.4
Low Saignée EM
16.8 ±0.4 16.8 ±0.4 0 27.8 ±0.1 24.2 ±0.2
High Saignée
32.7 ±1.7 16.4 ±0.8 -16.4 27.7 ±0.2 24.2 ±0.8
10 ton Scale Duplicates Merlot Columbia Valley pH 3.9 TA 0.33 g/100mL
Winemaking Details
• Mechanical harvest-Yield 170 gallon/ton• 30 ppm SO2 at destemming• YAN adjusted to 225 ppm with DAP• Yeast Strain “Premier Cuvee”-S. cerevisiae bayanus• Mix after water/SO2 1 minute per ton• Pump-overs 1 minute per ton 3 times a day
– Until drain and press (~ 8.5 minutes)• Drained to Tank- Press Fractions Recombined-finish
primary in tank• Sent to Barrel to undergo ML• Sensory on wines 1 year after crush
Columbia Basin Vineyard•Merlot BIG CANOPY CLONE 3 9 year old 5 TON/ACRE
•Read Veggie to the point nobody likes it!•VINEYARD SIZE
•20 acre~8 hectare•16 REPLICATES•SAMPLE SIZE
• 15 clusters per rep•Evenly spaced across vineyard•Fruit from alternate sides of canopy
•15 Clusters dissected into berries•30 Berries per replicate for tannins•Harvest date Oct 12-13 •Harvest Data 28 Brix 0.33 g/100mL TA pH 3.9•Tannin by protein ppt
•Row 73-74•Row 81-82•Row 89-90•Row 97-98•Row 105-106•Row 113-114•Row 121-122•Row 129-130
•Row 9-10•Row 17-18•Row 25-26•Row 33-34•Row 41-42•Row 49-50•Row 57-58•Row 65-66
Sampled Rows
Data
1 3.45 mg/g FW ~ 3450 mg/L wine potential2 19 % Skin Tannin 81% Seed Tannin3 Berry Weight Variability less than fruit tannin 4 Overall variability similar
Treatments AVE STDEV
STDERROR RANGE N
Berry weight (g)
1.18 0.0730.018~1.5
%1.06-1.26
16
Seed number per
berry1.68 0.115
0.029~1.7%
1.53-1.87
16
Skin Tannin mg per berry
0.78 0.0940.024~3.0
%0.53-0.91
16
Seed Tanninmg per berry
3.30 0.2230.056~1.7
%2.89-3.65
16
Basic Wine Chem
Treatments pH TA EtOH %
Control 3.81 ±0.02 0.50 ±0.05 14.0 ±0.31
High Alcohol 3.89 ±0.04 0.52 ±0.03 15.9 ±0.16
Low Saignée 3.86 ±0.030.52 ±0.03 13.8±0.23
High Saignée3.81 ±0.04 0.51 ±0.03
13.8±0.13
Extended Maceration
3.84 ±0.04 0.50 ±0.02 14.2 ±0.33
Anthocyanins-
Anthocyanins-Low Saignée
Anthocyanins-High Saignée
Anthocyanins-High Ethanol
Anthocyanins-Low Saignée Ex Mac.
Anthocyanins-All Muddled
Tannin Extraction
Anthocyanin, tannin and iron reactive phenolics at press and 185 days
Anthocyanins (mg/L) Tannins (mg/L) Fe Phenolics (mg/L)TREATMENT PRESS 185 Days PRESS 185 Days PRESS 185 Days
Control 468 C 418 C 469 B 399 D 1145 D 1338 D
High Ethanol 656 B 401 C 577 B 512 C 1338 C 1578 C
Low Saignée 687 B 461 B 549 B 500 C 1300 CD 1291 D
Low Saignée-EM
528 B 352 D 985 A 980 A 2026 A 2353 A
High Saignée 750 A 558 A 686 B 658 B 1690 B 1783 B
Letters within a column indicate significant differences at p<0.05
Error bars excluded for space.
Treatment
mg skin tannins per
g FW
mg seed tannins
per g FW
% Skin Tannins
Extracted
% Seed Tannins
Extracted
Wine Proportion
Skin
Wine Proportion
Seed
Harvest Fruit 0.66 A 3.29 A NA NA NA NA
Control 0.36 B 2.77 B 46% 16% 42% 58%
High Ethanol0.40 B 2.45 B 40% 25% 26% 74%
Low Saignée0.36 B 2.74 B 45% 17% 40% 60%
Low Saignée-EM 0.31 B 1.83 C 53% 44% 21% 79%
High Saignée 0.44 B 2.54 B 33% 22% 27% 73%
Polymeric Pigments
Polymeric Pigments Treatment Effect
Sensory
Courtesy of Dr. Carolyn Ross WSU PULLMAN
Principle Components Analysis
Assessment
• Saignée at the same rate as water back– No effect on phenolics– No effect on sensory– Complicated– Time Consuming– Potentially Wasteful
Assessment
• Want more Color or More Tannins?– High Saignée
• More anthocyanins, tannins, more SPP
– Extended Maceration• More tannins, more LPP• Sensory: Can be more drying
Assessment
• Higher Ethanol Wine– More Tannins– Not less astringent than control with large increase in EtOH– More Seed Tannin Extraction– Some Color enhancement– Hot Description– Less Fruit Flavor!
• Solubility of aromas in alcohol found in other work– Trending towards less smooth, more dry but more dynamic
~ stats indicate not significant– Is it worth it?– Dilution is the solution?– Greater Volume, lower taxes
–
Acknowledgments
• Linda Bisson UC Davis
• Chateau Ste. Michelle
• Winemaking: Josh Maloney, Bob Bertheau
• Sensory: Carolyn Ross, Karen Weller
• Family: Eileen and Andrew Harbertson
Vineyard Data By Row
Based on variation across vineyard the winemaking reps should be consistent. No ability to separate rows because of mechanized harvest.
Vineyard Data By Row
Based on variation across vineyard the winemaking reps should be consistent. No ability to separate rows because of mechanized harvest.
Tannin/seed vs. seeds per berry
Shows that berries with fewer seeds seem to compensate.No relationship between seed tannin/berry and seeds per berry.Good relationship (r=0.81) seed weight and berry weight