www.TheFairfieldCountyLifestyle.com

Fall2011Issue:01

TheFairfieldCountyLifestyleOnlineMagazine

TheFairfieldCountyLifestylestartedbackintheSpringof2009.Theoriginalconceptwastojustpostabouthowwehadfun,howwedressed,andthewaywelivedinConnecticut.Postingafewpicturescoveringourliveshasevolvedtowineandbeerreviews,postsaboutthemusicwedig,coolproducts,localcompanies,andstyletips.Weneverthoughtthatwouldallhappen.

Ourbloghaditsrootsineverydaylifeofgrowingupandlivingonthe“GoldCoast”ofConnecticut.Welovebeaches,boats,ginandtonics,seersucker,madras,bowties,cashmere,girlswithpearlearrings,coolcars,cableknitsweaters,oxfords,LillyPulitzer,polomatches,embroideredlobsters,andalltheexcessivethingsinlife.Yes,weenjoythefinerthings,butalsounderstandvalues.

Sharingourlifestylehasbeenanenjoyablejourney.ThenextstepfortheFCL,inourmind,wastobringyouawebmagazine.We’llstartoutreleasingoneforeachseason.Ihopethatoneday,we’llbeabletobringyouoneeverymonth.ThegoalofthismagazineissueistocapturetheessenceofFallinFairfieldCounty.

Givethemagazineareadandspreadtheword.Thankyou.

Cheers,

TheFCLCrew

TheFCLCrewFounder/Editor

DulanyFosterIV

Wine Reviewer

CodeyFoster

Contributers

AndrewSobottkaEllenFoster

Online:

www.TheFairfieldCountyLifestyle

Twitter: @TheFCLifestyle

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Fall2011-A Fall Classic: Apple Picking at Silverman’s Farm-

-Page 3-

-Wine Miles: Is Terroir at War Against Sustainability?--Page 7-

- What’s Good This Fall? (For Him & Her) --Page 12-

- Brew Reviews: Pumpkin Ales - -Page 14-

-Wine Review: Hopkins Cabernet Franc 2007- -Page 15-

FCLFCLFCLThe

AFallClassic. ApplePickingatSilverman’sFarm.(Easton,CT)

Theleavesstarttochangecolor,theairgetscrisp,andthesweaterscomeoutofthecloset.Itcanonlymeanonething:fall.Whatbetterwaytoenjoythestartoffallthanthanwithsomeapplepicking.

Silverman’sFarmislocatedinEaston,CTandhasbeentheresincethe1920s.Thefarmhasapplepickingfreshpressedcider,marketwithflorist,pettingzoo,hay-rides,pumpkinpickingandsoon.Tosumitup,it’sgoteverythingyouneedtokeepthekidsentertainedforacouplehours,whileenjoyingtheoutdoorsduringfall.

Thejourneyforapplepickingstartsasyouhitthemarket,oroutdoorstand,tobuydifferentsizedbagstoputyourapplesin.A“peck”costs$29dollars,whichIwouldsayisabagthatwillfit30-40apples,dependingonthesizeandvarietyofappleyoupick.Thereisalsotheoptionofbuyinghalfofapeckfor$15.

Afterpurchasingthebag,youtakeashorttractorride.Thetractorgoesupthehillandintotheorchard.Youmustenterandexittheorchardbythetractor.

Whenyougetoffthetractorupthehill,intheorchard,oneofthefarmerswillgiveyouarundownofwherethedifferentapplesarelocated,howtopicktheapples,andwhattolookforinagoodapple. Theorchardcontainsmanydifferenttypesofapples:Pristines,gingergold,galared,Macintosh,cortland,empire,Macoun,HoneyCrips,RedDelicous,GoldenDelicous,MutsuCrispin,Jonagold,AutumnGala,Cameo,SunCrisp,Fui,Nitany,andGrannySmiths.Notallofthesevarietiesareripeatthesametime.ApplepickingseasoncanbegininJulyandcon-tinueuntilthesnowbeginstofall.

TheFCLcrewpickedandatequiteafewappleswhileintheorchard.Thereisreallynothingbetterthananapplestraightfromthetree.Afterpickingsomeapples,youhopbackonthetractorride,andheadbackdownthehill.

ThemarketatSilverman’shasatonofproductsmadefromproducegrownonthefarm.Youcanbuyeverythingfromapplecider,tocandiedapples,toflowers,plums,andfes-tivedecorations.Irecommendpickingupagallonoftheirapplecider.Itisamazinglydeli-cousandreallygetsyouinthefallmood.

Now,whatshouldyoudowithyourapples?Wemadeanapplecrispwithhomemadewhipcream,butthepossibilitiesareendless.Makecandiedapples,applepies,applesauce,applebutter,applecoffeecake,etc.Thereisnosuchthingastoomanyapples,especiallySilverman’sapples. By:DulanyFosterIV

We’veallheardaboutthelocavorismmovement.Thefurtherfoodhastotraveltoreachyourhome,thelesssustainableitisinthegrandschemeofthings.IttakesfossilfuelstomovecommoditiesfrompointAtopointB,andthefurtherpointAisfrompointB,thelesssustainablethatsupplysystembecomes.Inthepastcoupleyearses-pecially,Americanshavebecomesomewhatawareoftheoverallimpactofcontemporaryfoodsupplyandhavebe-guntopurchasemoreandmoreingredientsfromlocalproducers.Restaurateurshavefollowedasimilarapproach,beginningtoincorporatelocalingredientsintotheirmenuinordertoboosttheireco-friendlyappealandattractsustainablyconsciousconsumers.Thedriveforlocallysuppliedproducehasbecomeanecessity(orasignificantinterestatleast)—andthistrendjuststellar.Icouldn’tbemorehappythatlocavorismhasdevelopedtractioninaworldoframpantfuelconsumption.Butseriously,whyhasn’tthejust-as-consumer-consciouswineindustrybeenabletojumponthebandwagon?

Insomesense,drinkinglocallyshouldhavecomefarbeforeeatinglocally.Whenyouthinkaboutit,import-ingwinefromFranceisjustaboutaspracticalasimportingdrinkingwaterfromFiji.Factis,750millilitersofwineweighs1.65pounds,andwhenyoufactorintheweightofglass,foil,andpackaging,we’rereallylookingatasolidfourpoundsabottle.That’salmost50poundsacase,andatabout60millioncasesbeingimportedintotheUnitedStatesannually—that’salotofweightandalotofwinemiles.Whichmeansalotoffossilfuels.Butbeforewedissecttheidiosyncrasiesofwinetransportandconsumption,first,Ithinkitisimportanttostipulatethattheneedsanddesiresofrestaurantbuyers,andconsumerspurchasingwineatretail,areinfactquitedifferent.Intherestaurantbusiness,theindividualdelegatedtopurchasewine(whetherthat’sthesommelier,winedirector,generalmanager,ect.),hasseveralresponsibilitiestotherestaurantanditspatronsthatdonotfallonaconsumerwalkingintoawineshop.

WineTrail: IsTerriorAtWarAgainstSustainability?

Firstoff,winepurchasedforaparticularvenuemustbe,atleastinsomerespect,compatiblewiththatvenue’sfoodselection.Evenifthewineisspectacular,ifitdoesnotmarrywiththefood,thewinelistismoreofaburdenthanautility.Second,theproductmustover-deliveratitspricepoint.Thisissimpleenough.Ide-ally,aten-dollarbottleofwinemustdrinklikeatwenty-dollarbottleofwine,andafifty-dollarbottlelikeahundred-dollarbottle.Andfinally(andit’sthisprerequisitethatoftenconsumeswineandbeveragedirectors),thewinelistasawholemustshareatleastsomecommonalityinregardstothepointoforiginofthefoodpreparationandoverallorientationofthevenue.Basically,anItalianrestaurantisgoingtoservemostlyItalianwines,asisaSpanishtapasrestaurant,mostlySpanishwines.Andthismakesperfectsense.IlikeChiantiwithmypasta—butunfortunatelyitisthisstandardthatdriveswineimport.

Asfarastheaverageconsumerpurchasingwineatretail—wellthat’sahorseofadifferentcolor.We’reAmericansdamnit.Wehavetheluxuryoftakingaglassofwineanddrinkingitonitsown,forwhatitis,andnothingmore.InEurope,foodandwineareprettymuchsynonymous,attachedatthehip,PBandJ—andinourcountry,well,that’snotnecessarilythecase.ThislendsincredibleflexibilitytotherangeofwineaccessibletotheAmericanconsumer.We’rewillingtodrinkanythingformAustralianShiraz,toGermanRiesling,andWhiteBurgundy.Butthatbeingsaid,domesticwineoutsellsimportedwine4to1intheU.S,and90%ofdomesticproductionoccursinasinglestate.California.Thismightsoundlikegoodnews,sustainablyspeaking.We’remakingourownwineanddrinkingourownwine—agoodsystem.Thinkagain.Americaisavastexpanse.NewYorkCityisroughly2500milesfromNapaValley(that’salmostthreequartersthedistanceofParis)andthatmeansonething:winemiles.Andlotsofthem.

Nowthatwe’veproblematizedtwoverydifferentcreatures,socomesthequestion,buthowtocurethem?Andtheanswertothisquestioniscomplexandprobablywayovermyhead,butIdoknowthattherootofthesolutionliesinlocalwineproduction.Andthedriveforlocalproductioncancomeinonlyoneway,aswithmostcommercialinterests,andthat’sfromtheconsumer.Inthewineshopthistreatmentiseasilyapplied.InsteadofCaliforniaChardonnay,buyConnecticutChardonnay.InsteadofGermanRiesling,buyFingerLakesRiesling.

Butwhataboutterroir?Youask.Isn’tTerroirtheepitomeoffinewineproduction?

Tohellwithterroir.Atthisrateofclimatechange,therewillbenofinewineproduction.Letmevent.

AnyChablisproducerwilltellyouthatViticultureClimateZone1isdifferentthanitwas30yearsago.Harvestdatesarebecomingearlier,grapesriper,andalcohollevelshigher.AndjustuptheroadinChampagne,climatechangecouldn’tbemorefullforce.WhydoyoureckontherehavebeensomanygoodChampagnevin-tageslately?DoyouknowwhatconstitutesagoodChampagnevintage?Anexceptionallywarmgrowingseason.Maybethatexplainswhythe1990swereabletoproduce7vintagesofDomPerignon.That’smorevintagesofDomPerignonthananydecadeever.Andthe2000-decadeisontracktorackupjustasmany,ifnotmore.Maybethissoundslikegoodnews,anditis,butonlyforChampagneandallofthevineyardlandnorthward—andtrustme,therearen’tmanyvineyardsnorthofChampagne.Although,atthisrate,thatmightbechanging(andI’llbetheonewritingaboutthenuanceofGreenlandterroir).

IguesswhatI’mgettingatisthatsometimespeopleforgetthatterroirissomethingthatexistsevery-where.Eventheleasthallowedvineyardplotinthe-middle-of-nowhereKentuckyhasterroir.AndpartofwhatLocavorismneedstobeistoembracelocalterroir.Andtoembracewithverylittleregardastowhatisgoodlandorwhatisbadland,butwhatislocalland.

Butevenmorethanthat,weneedtoletgooftheideathatgreatwineonlycomesfromselectlandhold-ingsinEuropeandCalifornia.Inthepastdecadeitsneverbeenmoreapparentthatgoodsiteselection,stylisticwinemaking,andaboveallelse,quality-mindedvineyardmanagementarewhatmakegreatwine—andanyre-gionwiththesebasicingredientscanmakeadamngoodpotion.Soifourregion,thetri-statearea,wantstomakegreatwine,wellwehavetheresourcestodothat.SoCalifornia,youdrinkyourshit,andwe’lldrinkourshit.

Toaddressrestaurantconsumptionisofcoursemuchmoredifficult.Abrilliantsommelieronceshedlightonthisissuewithasimplepieceofadviceonfoodpairing—“Ifitgrowstogether,itgoestogether”.AndIfeellikethisisoneofthosenotionsthatisconstantlybeinghonoredbutoftengoesunsaid.Sublimepairings(andgreatonestoo)occurwhencuisinefromaparticularregionisjoinedwithwineproducedbythatveryplace.Somewinegeekshavetriedtoexplainthisbiologicallybutperson-ally,Ithinkthat’sbullshit.Morelikely,Isuspect—I’msureinfact,thatlocalproducershavelearnedtoadapttheirwinemakingtoproducewinesthatpairespeciallywellwiththefoodtheyputonthetableeverynight.ThisisjustpartofthereasonOldWorldwineshavesuchareputationofbeingsofoodfriendly.Unfortunately,thismeansthat“Whatgrowstogether,goestogether”isn’treallythatpertinentafterall.Preparationiswhatmattersmost—andthatappliestobothfoodandwine. Sohere’sthebrutalparadox:we’resourcingingredientslocallyandpreparingtheminternation-ally,soultimatelyweenduppairinglocalproducewithinternationalwines.AndI’dliketosuggestthatperhapstheresolutiontothispredicamentlieswiththewineproducers.InsteadofproducingwinestheAmericanway,justfordrinking,weneedproduceatleastsomewinesspecificallytargetingourfavoriteinternationalcuisines.Letsmakerusticredstodrinkwithoureggplantparm.Letsmakerazorsharp,lowalcoholwhites(withsomegoodresidual,maybe)tocutthroughourspicyBratwurst.Letsstartmakingwineforfoodagain.

Now,willtheConnecticutHighlandseverbeabletoproduceaspittin’imageofTraditionalRioja?Hellnaw.ButalmostanyAVAcouldviablyproducearedwinewithanaffinityforSpanishcuisine.That’swhatI’mtalkingabout.Andwho’stosaythateveryonceandawhileyoucan’thaveaBarolowithyourProsciuttodiParma?That’sfine.ChampagneonNewYears:that’sfinetoo.Butwhat’simpor-tantisthatwineslikeConnecticutChardonnaybecomesastapleratherthanCaliforniaChardonnay,andLongIslandMerlottakestherollofrightbankBordeauxinthevenueofeverydayeatinganddrinking.Let’skeepterroirinperspective.That’sgoingtocutbackonalotofwinemilesandsavetheEarth.Andsavingtheearthistrendy.Yadig? By:CodeyFoster

ChamardRiesling CodeytakingtastingnotesDrewenjoyingsomewine

Rayban Wayfarers MatteBlack

$154.95atSunglassHut

Baracuta G9 Harrington Jacket$275.00atJ.Crew

Kindle Fire$199.00atAmazon.com

Shadow Check SportshirtbyBandofOutsiders$240.00atBarneys

Ebbets Field FlannelNewYorkHat$40.00atJ.Crew

Rolex Explorer IIwithwhiteface.

$6,325.00

L.L. Bean Signature Buck Chukka

inBlackSlate

$119.00

A.P.C. Khaki Pants$235.00atSaks

Shadow Check Sportshirt

ForHim-Rayban Wayfarers

MatteBlack$154.95atSunglassHut

Ebbets Field FlannelEbbets Field FlannelNewYorkHatNewYorkHat$40.00atJ.Crew

MatteBlack$154.95atSunglassHutForHim-ForHim-

What’sGood?

Sailor’s Braclet$4.00

Grey

Cashmere

Sweater

$99.90atUniqlo

Rugby-Stripe Surgical Belt$59.50atRugby

What’sGood? ForHer-

Metallic Foil Jacquard Dress$168.00atJ.Crew

Booker Bootsin“masalchai”$298.00atJ.Crew

Striped Cashmere Cabin Sweater

$165.00atMadewell

Tusk Tusk Cuff$48.00byLillyPulitzer

Suede-Patch Hacking Jacket$348.00atRugby

Metallic Foil Jacquard Dress$168.00atJ.Crew

Snowbound Sweaterin“heathergreen”$198.00atJ.Crew

Paloma’s Venezia Goldoni Heart

Pendant$900.00atTiffany&Co.

Open Spade Ring$48.00byKateSpade

Lilly Pullitzer

iPhoneCase$24.95

Bow Earrings$350atTiffany&Co.

Leather Transport Tote$148.00byMadewell

‘Orlina” Box ClutchbyHouseofHarlow1960$225.00atNordstrom

“Sew Psyched”nailpolish$8.00byEssie

BrewReviews:PumpinAles“Pumpkinhead Ale”

Brewery:ShipyardLocation:Portland,ME.A.B.V.:5.1%

Thisis“Pumpkinhead”byShipyard,andletmetellyouthatitisoneofthebestpumpkinbeersIhaveeverhad.Thisbeerhashintsofpumpkinandspices,likenutmeg,onthenose.Thetasteofthisbeeriswhatapumpkinbeershouldbe.Itdoesn’tseemlikethepumpkinwasforcedintothebeer.Thenutmeg,cinnamon,andpumpkinworktogetherinharmony.Thsbeerislikeapumpkinpiewithwhippedcream,theflavorsmelttogetherandblendharmoniouslyThebeerisnottoolight,andnottoodark,justright.ThisisgreatbrewthatIdefinitelyrecommendpickingupfortheFall/Halloween/Thanksgivingseason.Youwon’tregretit.Also,bo-nuspointsfortheheadlesshorsemanlogo,it’sprettydope!

“Punkin’ Ale”

Brewery:DogfishHeadLocation:Milton,DE.A.B.V.:7%

DogfishHeadoffersapumpkinalecalled“PunkinAle.”Thesmellofthisbeerisspicesandatouchofpumpkin.Whentastingthisbeer,yougetthepumpkinandbrownsugarthattheyuse,aswellasthedifferentspices,suchasnutmegandcinna-mon.Thisbeer,tome,tastesliketheirindianbrownalewithpumpkinforcedintoitabit.Theflavorsdoworkwell,butnotquiteaswellasShipyard’s“Pumpkinhead.”Ifindthisbeeralittlethick.Thisisabeerthatyouorderonceayearandthat’sthat.Buyasixpack,andsplititwithyourbuddies.It’sworthyofatryandI’drecommenditwithtrukey,dessert,orbyitself.

WineReview:HopkinsCabernetFranc(2006)

DespitemyinherentpropensitytoraveaboutthedepthandoverallqualityofConnecticutwhitewines,Ioftenfind(withafewexceptions,ofcourse)thatourredbottlingscomeoffasthin,one-dimensional,under-ripe,poorlymade,orsometimesjustblatantlyhighbred.Inregardstothe2006Cab-ernetFrancbyHopkinswinery—noneofthesemodifiersapply.ThisexquisiteConnecticutredisrich,fullofcomplexity,andutterlyEuropeanatheart.

InthepastI’vefoundthattheHopkinswinesareinfactquitehitormiss,however,themoreItaste,themoreIfindmyselfdevelopingawarmspotforthisLitchfieldCountywinery.I’mconstantlyimpressedbytheirsemi-sweetwhiteblend‘Westwind’,awinethatIserveinmySundaywineclass,andhav-ingrecentlytastedtheir‘Duet’(astylisticcombinationofChardonnayandVidalBlanc),I’mdefinitelyfeelingmore‘hit’than‘miss’thesedays.

Oh.Andhowrudeofme.MeetmynewfriendFranc.We’vebeenac-quain tancesforquiteawhilebutitwasn’tuntilthisweekendthatwereallybecameclose.IwasfortunateenoughtodosomewinetouringontheNorthForkofLongIslandthisweekendandit’sontheNorthForkthatsingle-varietal(andblended)Cabernet-FrancmakesitsNewWorldstompingground.It’sgenerallyknowntobemoreherbaceous,lesstannic,andslightlymorefruit-driventhanitsbigbrotherCabernetSauvignon,howeveritstillsharesCaber-netSauvignon’scapacitytomakecomplex,qualitywinesbothinblendedandloner-form.

ThisparticularCabernetFrancbyHopkinsshowsoffapalegarnethueintheglass.

Onthenoseitisfullofearthiness,berryfruit,cherry,raspberry,andenticinghintsofcassis—atruetestamenttoitsCabernetlineage.

Onthepaletteitfollowsthroughwithprofoundearthiness,qualityfruit,andsupple,silkytannins.IalsodetectacertainherbalqualitywhichistypicalofCabernetFrancandatfouryearsoldorso—thiswineisdefinitelyshowingsomenicedevelopment.Although,I’dliketopointoutthatit’srightarounditspeak-drinkingwindowandmightbeforjustanotheryearortwobeforeitstartstoheadsouth.Inanycase,thewineinthisbottleisatrueexampleofCTterroir.ItissimplywellmadeandissomethingforHopkinstobeproudof.

Asfaraspairingisconcerned,thiswine’sstructureliessomewherebe-tweenaPinotNoirandCabernetSauvignon—avastrange,Iknow,butperhapsitwouldhelptopinpointCabernetFrancastheexactmidpointbetweenthesetwocontrastingvarietals.It’searthinesslendsittoearthyprofilelendsittomoreearthy,dirtyvegetables(mushrooms,carrots,andpotatoes)andit’stanninstruc-turesuggestsrich,roastedmeats.Needlesstosay,Ithinkaheartyautumnstewwouldpairjustflawlesslywiththisunctuousred.

Cheers.

$20.95atHopkinsWinery.AlsoavailableatStewLeonard’sWinesinNorwalk.

FCLThe

Issue:01

Fall2011