The Complete Asian Cookbook Series: Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodida, Laos & Burma

Contents

Foreword

THAILANDIntroductionYourThaishelf1.Pastes,Rice,NoodlesandStarters2.Mains3.VegetablesandAccompaniments4.Desserts

VIETNAMIntroductionYourVietnameseshelf1.Snacks,StartersandSoups2.Mains3.Accompaniments4.Desserts

CAMBODIA&LAOSIntroductionYourCambodianandLaotianshelf1.NoodlesandRice2.Mains

BURMAIntroductionYourBurmeseshelf1.Rice,NoodlesandSoups2.Mains3.SidesandAccompaniments4.Desserts

Glossary

Foreword

JustasFrancehasitsrobustcountryfareaswellasitssubtlehautecuisine,sotoo does Asia have a range of culinary delights that can be simple, complex,fiery,mild, tantalising–andcompulsive!NotallAsianfoodisexoticorwildlyunusual.NoodleandricedishesareascommonplaceasthepastasandpotatoesoftheWest.Manyoftheingredientswillbefamiliartoanyonewhoknowstheirwayaroundakitchen.Themaindifferenceshavearisenjustastheyhaveariseninotherpartsoftheworld–throughtheuseofavailableingredients.ThusthereisarelianceonsomeherbsandspiceslesswellknownintheWest.Meatisoftenreplacedby thenutritiousby-productsof thesoybeanandbyprotein-rich fishsaucesandshrimppastes.

True,someofthemoreunusualingredientstakealittlegettingusedto.Butonceyouhaveovercomewhatresistanceyoumayhavetowardstheideaofrawfishordriedshrimppasteorseaweed,you’ll find that these(andother) ingredientsarenolessdeliciousthan–andcertainlyasexcitingas–thoseyouuseinyourfavouritedishes.

Theintroductiontoeachchapterwillgiveyouagoodideaofwhattoexpectinthe way of out-of-the-ordinary ingredients. Almost without exception, thosecalled for are readily available in most large supermarkets or Asian grocerystores;intherarecasetheyarenot,suitablesubstituteshavebeengiven.

ThoseofyoualreadyfamiliarwithsomeoftheSoutheastAsiancuisineswill,Ihope,findrecipestointerestandexciteyouinthesepages;andIthinkyouwillbe tempted to explore cuisines with which you are less well acquainted. Forthose of youwho are coming to SoutheastAsian cooking for the first time, Ihave taken care to make sure the essential steps are clear and precise, withdetailed instructions on the following pages for cooking the much-used

ingredients(suchasrice,noodles,coconutmilkandchilli),andpointersonhowtojointachicken,portionfishandselectandseasonawok.

Formostcountries,thenamesoftherecipeshavebeengiveninthedominantormost common language or dialect of the country concerned, followed by theEnglishnameinitalics.

Generally,theletter‘a’inAsianwordsispronouncedasthe‘a’infather,neveras incat; the letter ‘u’ is rather like the ‘oo’ in look,neveras induty;and theletters ‘th’ are generally pronounced like an ordinary ‘t’ (slightly aspirated),never as in breath or breathe. The pronunciation of Burmese names can beconfusing.Justrememberthattheletters‘ky’soundsomewherebetweena‘ch’and a ‘j’, so thatkyazan is pronounced ‘chahzan’ and kyetha as ‘chetha’.Theletter‘k’inthemiddleofawordissilent;andtheletters‘t’and‘ke’attheendofa word cut short the preceding vowel, so lethoke sounds like ‘letho’ and ginthokesoundslike‘jintho’.

EatingforhealthMostAsianfoodishealthy.Manyspicesandingredientssuchasturmeric,garlicand ginger have proven health-giving properties. However, with today’semphasisonweightcontrolIhavemademodificationsinthequantityandtypeoffatusedforcooking.Ihavefounditispossibletogetverygoodresultsusingalmosthalftheamountoffatcalledforinmanytraditionaldishes.

InthefoodofThailandandcertainotherSoutheastAsiancountries,lardisusedas a cooking medium. In my kitchen I substitute a light vegetable oil. Theflavourwill be slightly different, but theway it sits on your stomachwill bedifferent too.Ifyouarebattlinghighcholesterol,whenusingcoconutmilkcutdownonthequantityandsubstituteasimilaramountofskimmilk.

All of these recipes are adaptable to low-fat diets with very little sacrifice offlavour,sincemostoftheexotictastescomefromherbs,spicesandsauces.

CookingwithawokIfIhadtochooseonecookingpantobemaroonedonadesertislandwith,I’dchoose a wok. It would cope with any kind of food that happened to beavailable.Inityoucanboil,braise,fryandsteam,andwhileyoucandoallthese

thingsinpansyoualreadypossess,thewokisalmostindispensableforthestir-frying technique thatmanyAsiandishescall for.Becauseof its roundedshapeandhigh,flaringsidesyoucantosswithabandonandstir-fryingredientswithouttheirleapingoverthesides;andbecausethewokismadeofthinironyougetthequick,highheatnecessarytomuchAsiancooking.

Though a wok is best used with gas, it is possible to get good results withelectricity.Becausequick,highheat is required in stir-frying, turn thehotplateontothehighestheatandplacethewokdirectlyonit;itispossibletobuywokswithaflatbaseforbettercontact,orinvestinanelectricwokwheretheheatingelementisbuiltintothepan.The30–35cm(12–14in)wokismostuseful.Youcancooksmallquantitiesinalargewok,butnotviceversa.

Thewokmadeofstainlesssteel isamoderninnovation,butamodestlypricedironwokheatsupquicklyandevenlyand,ifyouremembertodryitwellafterwashing,itwillnotrust.

Beforeuse,anironwokmustbeseasoned.Prepareitbywashingthoroughlyinhot water and detergent. Some woks, when new, have a lacquer-like coating,whichmust be removedby almost filling thewokwithwater, adding about 2tablespoonsbicarbonateofsoda(bakingsoda)andboilingforabout15minutes.Thissoftensthecoatinganditcanbescrubbedoffwithafinescourer.Ifsomeofthe coating still remains, repeat the process until the wok is free from anylacquerontheinside.Toseasonthenewwok,dryitwell,putovergentleheatand, when the metal heats up, wipe over the entire inner surface with somecrumpledpapertoweldippedinpeanutoil.Repeatanumberoftimeswithmoreoil-soaked paper until the paper stays clean.Allow to cool.Yourwok is nowreadyforuse.

After cooking in it, do not scrub thewokwith steelwool or abrasives of anykind. Soak in hotwater to soften any remaining food, then rub gentlywith asponge,usinghotwateranddetergent–thispreservesthesurface.Makesurethewokisquitedry,because ifmoisturestays left in thepan itwill rust.Heat thewok gently to ensure complete dryness, then rub over the inside surfacewithlightlyoiledpaper.Awell-usedwokwill soon turnblack,but this isnormal–andthemoreawokisused,thebetteritistocookin.

Deep-frying

Awok isanefficientpan fordeep-fryingas ithasawider surfacearea thanaregularfryingpan.Besurethatthewokissittingsecurelyonthestove.Fillthewoknomorethantwo-thirdsfullandheattheoilovermediumheat.

Tocheckthetemperaturefordeep-frying,useakitchenthermometerifyouhaveone– on average, 180°C (350°F) is the correct temperature.To testwithout athermometer,acubeofbreaddropped into theoilwillbrownin15secondsat180°C(350°F),andin10secondsifthetemperatureis190°C(375°F).

Thehigher temperaturemaybe suitable touse for foods that don’t havegreatthickness, such as pappadams or seafood tempura, but if something needs tocookthrough,suchaschickenpieces,usealowertemperatureofaround160°C(320°F)–inthiscaseacubeofbreadwill takenearly30secondstobrown.Ifthetemperatureisnothotenough,thefoodwillabsorboilandbecomegreasy.Ifyouoverheattheoilitcouldcatchfire.

Userefinedpeanutoil,lightoliveoil,canolaorricebranoilandlowerthefoodingentlywithtongsoraslottedspoonsoasnottosplashyourselfwithhotoil.Removingthefriedfoodtoacolanderlinedwithcrumpledpapertowelwillhelptoremoveanyexcessoil.

Aftercooling,oilmaybepouredthroughafinemetalskimmerandstoredinanairtight jar away from the light. Itmay be usedwithin amonth or so, addingfreshoiltoitwhenheating.Afteracoupleofuses,itwillneedtobedisposedofproperly.

CoconutmilkIhaveheardmanypeoplerefertotheclearliquidinsideacoconutas‘coconutmilk’.Ihaveevenreaditinbooks.So,attheriskofboringthosewhoalreadyknow,let’sestablishrightawaywhatcoconutmilkreallyis.It’sthemilkyliquidextracted from thegrated fleshofmature fresh coconutsor reconstituted fromdesiccated(shredded)coconut.

Coconut milk is an important ingredient in the cookery of nearly all Asiancountries.Itisusedinsoups,curries,savourymeatorseafoodmixturesandallkindsofdesserts.Ithasanunmistakableflavourandrichnessandshouldbeusedinrecipesthatcallforit.

Whenthefirsteditionofthisbookwaspublishedin1975,theonlygoodwayto

obtaincoconutmilkoutsidethecountrieswherecoconutsgrowwastoextractityourself.Thesedayscoconutmilkiswidelyavailableintinsfromsupermarkets.Problematically, the quality between brands varies enormously so it is worthcomparingafewbrandsandcheckingtheingredientslist–itshouldonlyhavecoconutandwaterinit.Itshouldsmellandtastefreshandcleanandbeneitherwatery nor solid. It is better to avoid brands that include stabilisers andpreservatives.Shakethetinwellbeforeopeningtodispersetherichnessevenlythroughout.BrandsinTetraPakstendnottobelumpyorwatery.

Delicious as it is, coconut milk is full of saturated fat. With this in mind, Isuggest that only when coconut cream is required should you use the tinnedcoconutmilkundiluted.Wherearecipecalls for thickcoconutmilk,dilute thetinnedproductwithhalfitsvolumeinwater(forexample,250ml/8½floz/1cuptinned coconutmilk and 125ml/4 fl oz/½ cupwater).Where coconutmilk isrequired,dilute the tinnedcoconutmilkwithanequalamountofwater.Wherethincoconutmilk isrequired,dilute the tinnedcoconutmilkwith twopartsbyvolumeofwater(forexample,250ml/8½floz/1cup tinnedcoconutmilkand500ml/17floz/2cupswater).

If you would like to make your own coconut milk, the extraction method isincludedbelow.Traditionally,coconutmilkisextractedintwostages–thefirstyieldbeingthe‘thickmilk’,thesecondextractionproducing‘thinmilk’.Useamixtureoffirstandsecondextractswhenarecipecallsforcoconutmilkunlessthickmilkorthinmilkisspecified.Sometimestheyareaddedatdifferentstagesoftherecipe.Somerecipesuse‘coconutcream’.Thisistherichlayerthatrisestothetopofthethickmilk(orfirstextract)afterithasbeenleft tostandforawhile.

Makingcoconutmilkfromscratch

Usingdesiccated(shredded)coconutMakes375ml(12½floz/1½cups)thickcoconutmilkMakes500ml(17floz/2cups)thincoconutmilk

Manycooksusedesiccatedcoconut formakingcoconutmilk. It ismucheasierandquickertopreparethangratingfreshcoconut,andincurriesyoucannottellthedifference.

180g(6½oz/2cups)desiccated(shredded)coconut1.25litres(42floz/5cups)hotwater

Put thedesiccatedcoconut intoa largebowlandpourover625ml(21floz/2½cups)ofthehotwaterthenallowtocooltolukewarm.Kneadfirmlywith your hands for a fewminutes, then strain through a fine sieve or apieceofmuslin(cheesecloth),pressingorsqueezingoutasmuchliquidaspossible;thisisthethickcoconutmilk.

Repeattheprocessusingthesamecoconutandremaininghotwater.Thisextractwillyieldthethincoconutmilk.(Becauseofthemoistureretainedinthecoconutthefirsttime,thesecondextractusuallyyieldsmoremilk.)

Alternatively, to save time, you can use an electric blender or foodprocessor.Putthedesiccatedcoconutand625ml(21floz/2½cups)ofthehotwaterintotheblenderandprocessfor30seconds,thenstrainthroughafinesieveorpieceofmuslin(cheesecloth),squeezingoutallthemoisture.Repeat,usingthesamecoconutandremaininghotwater.

Note:Sometimesarichermilkisrequired.Forthis,hotmilkreplacesthewater and only the first extract is used. However, a second extract willyieldaflavoursomeandreasonablyrichgradeofcoconutmilkthatcanbeusedinsoups,curriesorotherdishes.

UsingfreshcoconutMakes375ml(12½cups)thickcoconutmilkMakes500ml(17floz/2cups)thincoconutmilk

InAsiancountries,freshcoconutisusedandacoconutgraterisstandardequipment ineveryhousehold.Grating freshcoconut is easy ifyouhavethe right implement for the job. However, if you are able to get freshcoconuts and do not have such an implement, use a food processor topulverisethecoconutandthenextractthemilk.

1freshcoconut

1liter(34floz/4cups)waterormilk

Preheattheovento180°C(350°F).Crackthecoconutinhalfbyhittingitwith the back of a heavy kitchen chopper. Once a crack has appeared,insert the thin edgeof theblade andprise it open.Save the sweet liquidinsidefordrinking.Ifyoudonotownacoconutgrater,putthetwohalvesonabakingtrayandbakeintheovenfor15–20minutes,oruntilthefleshstartstocomeawayfromtheshell.Liftitoutwiththepointofaknife,andpeel away the thin dark brown skin that clings to thewhite portion.Cutintochunks.

Putthecoconutfleshintoafoodprocessorwith500ml(17floz/2cups)ofthewaterandprocessuntilthecoconutiscompletelypulverised.Straintheliquid using a sieve ormuslin (cheesecloth) to extract the thick coconutmilk.Repeat thisprocessusing thesamecoconutandremainingwater toextract the thinmilk.Left-over freshly extracted or bought coconutmilkmaybefrozen–icecubetraysareideal.

ChilliesFreshchilliesareusedinmostAsianfood,particularlythatofSoutheastAsia.Ifmildflavouring is required,simplywash thechilliandadd it to thedishwhensimmering,thenliftoutanddiscardthechillibeforeserving.Butifyouwanttheauthenticfieryqualityofthedish,youneedtoseedandchopthechilliesfirst.Todothis,removethestalkofeachchilliandcutinhalflengthwaystoremovethecentralmembraneandseeds–theseedsarethehottestpartofthechilli.

Ifyouhandlechillieswithoutwearinggloves,washyourhandsthoroughlywithsoapandwarmwaterafterwards.Chilliescanbesohot thateven twoor threegoodwashingsdonotstopthetinglingsensation,whichcangoonforhours.Ifthishappens, remember tokeepyourhandswell away fromyoureyes, lipsorwheretheskinisespeciallysensitive.Ifyouhavemorechilliesthanyouneed,theycanbewrappedinplasticwrapandfrozen,thenaddedtodishesandusedwithoutthawing.

Driedchilliescomeinmanyshapesandsizes.GenerallyIusethelargevariety.Iffryingthemasanaccompanimenttoameal,usethemwhole,droppingthemstraight intohotoil. If theyarebeingsoakedandgroundaspartof thespicingfor a sauceor curry, first cut off the stalk end and shake the chilli so that theseedsfallout.Theyaresafeenoughtohandleuntiltheyhavebeensoakedand

ground,butifyouhandlethemafterthishasbeendone,remembertowashyourhandsatoncewithsoapandwater.

Driedchillies,thoughtheygiveplentyofheatandflavour,donothavethesamevolatileoilsasfreshchilliesandsodonothaveasmucheffectontheskin.

RicevarietiesOneof theoldestgrains in theworld, anda staple foodofmore thanhalf theworld’s population, rice is by far the most important item in the daily dietthroughoutAsia.

There are thousands of varieties.Agricultural scientists involved in producingnewandhigheryieldingstrainsofricewillpickdifferencesthatarenotapparentto even the most enthusiastic rice eater. But, from the Asian consumer’sviewpoint, rice has qualities that aWesternermight not even notice – colour,fragrance,flavour,texture.

Ricebuyersaresotrainedtorecognisedifferenttypesofricethattheycanholdafewgrainsinthepalmtowarmit,sniffitthroughtheholemadebythumbandforefinger,andknowitsage,variety,evenperhapswhereitwasgrown.Oldriceissoughtafterandprizedmore thannewricebecause it tends tobefluffyandseparatewhencooked,even if thecookabsent-mindedlyadds toomuchwater.Generallyspeaking,thewhitepolishedgrains–whetherlongandfineorsmalland pearly (much smaller than what we know as short-grain rice) – areconsideredbest.

ThedesirablefeaturesofricearenotthesameineveryAsiancountry.InBurma,fluffy, dry rice is preferred. Long, thin grains are considered best and rice iscookedwithsalt.Themostdreadful thingacookcoulddo is forget tosalt therice.

In Thailand and Vietnam, rice is preferred dry and separate, but it is cookedwithoutsalt.

Furthereast,medium-orshort-grainvarietiescomeintotheirown.InLaosandCambodiatheypreferricethatisperfectlycookedbutnotdryandfluffy.Glossy,pearly grains are desired, each onewell defined, butwith a tendency to clingtogethersothatitcaneasilybepickedupwithchopsticks.Again,nosaltisused.Laotians are different from all other rice eaters in that they prefer sticky or

glutinous rice to other varieties,whereas inmost countries sticky rice is usedonlyforsweetsorleaf-wrappedsnacks.

Riceissoldeitherpackagedorinbulk.Polishedwhitericeisavailableaslong-,medium-or short-grain. Unpolished or natural rice is available as medium-orlong-grain; and inmany countries it is possible to buy an aromatic table ricegrowninBangladesh,calledbasmatirice.Indisheswherespicesandflavouringsareaddedandcookedwiththerice,anytypeoflong-grainricemaybeused.Ineach recipe the typeof ricebest suited is recommended,butasageneral rule,rememberthatmedium-grainorshort-grainricegivesaclingingresultandlong-grainrice,properlycooked,isfluffyandseparate.

PreparingriceTo wash or not to wash? Among Asian cooks there will never beagreementonwhetherriceshouldbewashedornot.Somefavourwashingthericeseveraltimes,thenleavingittosoakforawhile.Othergoodcooksinsistthatwashingriceisstupidandwasteful,takingawaywhatvitaminsandnutrientsareleftafterthemillingprocess.

IhavefoundthatmostricesoldinAustraliadoesnotneedwashingbutthatriceimportedinbulkandpackagedherepicksupalotofdustanddirtandneedsthoroughwashinganddraining.

Inarecipe,ifriceistobefriedbeforeanyliquidisadded,thewashedricemustbeallowedenoughtimetothoroughlydrainanddry,between30and60minutes.Ricetobesteamedmustbesoakedovernight.Riceforcookingby the absorption method may be washed (or not), drained briefly andaddedtothepanimmediately.

CookingriceFora fail-safewayofcooking riceperfectlyevery time,put the requiredamountofriceandwaterintoalargesaucepanwithatight-fittinglid(seethemeasures above right). Bring to the boil over high heat, cover, thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor20minutes.Removefromtheheat,uncover thepan and allow the steam to escape for a fewminutesbeforefluffingupthericewithafork.

Transferthericetoaservingdishwithaslottedmetalspoon–don’tuseawoodenspoonor itwill crush thegrains.Youwillnotice that long-grainrice absorbs considerably more water than short-grain rice, so the twokindsarenotinterchangeableinrecipes.Thoughdetailsaregivenineveryricerecipe,hereisageneralruleregardingproportionsofriceandliquid.

Long-grainrice200g(7oz/1cup)riceuse500ml(17floz/2cups)water

400g(14oz/2cups)riceuse875ml(29½floz/3½cups)water

600g(1lb5oz/3cups)riceuse1.25litres(42floz/5cups)water

Use500ml(17floz/2cups)waterforthefirstcupofrice,then375ml(12½floz/1½cups)waterforeachadditionalcupofrice.

Short-ormedium-grainrice220g(8oz/1cup)riceuse375ml(12½floz/1½cups)water

440g(15½oz/2cups)riceuse625ml(21floz/2½cups)water

660g(1lb7oz/3cups)riceuse875ml(29½floz/3½cups)water

Use375ml(12½floz/1½cups)waterforthefirstcupofrice,then250ml(8½floz/1cup)waterforeachadditionalcupofrice.

NoodlesTherearemanydifferenttypesofnoodlesavailableanddifferentAsiancountrieshave specific uses and preferences.Almost all of these varieties are availablefromlargesupermarketsorAsiangrocerystores.

Driedeggnoodles:Perhapsthemostpopularnoodles,thesearemadeofwheatflour. Dried egg noodles must be soaked in hot water for about 10 minutesbefore cooking. This is notmentioned in the cooking instructions, yet it does

make cooking them somuch easier – as the noodles soften the strands spreadand separate and the noodles cook more evenly than when they are droppedstraightintoboilingwater.

Aspoonfulofoilinthewaterpreventsboilingover.Whenwaterreturnstotheboil,cookfinenoodlesfor2–3minutesandthicknoodlesfor3–4minutes.Donot overcook. Drain immediately, then run cold water through the noodles torinseoffanyexcessstarchandcoolthemsotheydon’tcontinuetocookintheirownheat.Drainthoroughly.Toreheat,pourboilingwateroverthenoodlesinacolander.Servewithstir-frieddishesoruseinsoupsandbraisednoodledishes.

Driedricenoodles:Therearevariouskindsofflatricenoodles.Dependingonthetypeofnoodleandthicknessofthestrands, theyhavetobesoakedincoldwater for 30–60minutes before cooking. Drain, then drop into a saucepan ofboilingwaterandcook for6–10minutes, testingeveryminuteafter the first6minutessoyouwillknowwhentheyaredone.Assoonastheyaretender,draininacolanderandrinsewell incoldrunningwater.Drainoncemore.Theycanthenbefriedorheatedinsoupbeforeserving.

Driedricevermicelli(rice-stick)noodles:Ricevermicellihasveryfinestrandsandcooksveryquickly.Dropintoboilingwaterandcookfor2–3minutesonly.Drainwell.Serveinsoupsorwithdishesthathaveagoodamountofsauce.Or,if a crisp garnish is required, use rice vermicelli straight from the packet anddeep-frysmallamountsforjustafewseconds.Itwillpuffandbecomewhiteassoonasitisimmersedintheoilifitishotenough.Liftoutquicklyonaslottedspoonorwirestraineranddrainonpapertowelsbeforeserving.

Driedcellophane(beanthread)noodles:Alsoknownasbeanstarchnoodles,thesedriednoodlesneedtobesoakedinhotwaterfor20minutes,thendrainedandcooked ina saucepanofboilingwater for15minutes,oruntil tender.Foruseasacrispgarnish,deep-fry theminhotoilstraight fromthepacket,as forrice vermicelli (above). In Japan they have a similar fine translucent noodle,knownasharusame.

Preparingsoft-friednoodlesAfter the noodles have been boiled and drained, spread them on a largebaking tray linedwith paper towel and leave them to dry for at least 30minutes – a little peanut oil may be sprinkled over them to prevent

sticking.Heat2tablespoonseachofpeanutoilandsesameoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanuntilhot,thenaddahandfulofnoodlesandcookuntilgoldenononeside.Turnandcooktheothersideuntilgolden,then remove to a plate. Repeat with the remaining noodles. It may benecessarytoaddmoreoiltothewokifalargequantityofnoodlesisbeingfried,butmakesure the freshoil isveryhot first.Servewithbeef,pork,poultryorvegetabledishes.

Preparingcrisp-friednoodlesRice vermicelli (rice-stick) and cellophane (bean thread) noodles can befried in hot oil straight from the packet. Egg noodles need to be cookedfirst, thendrainedandspreadoutona largebaking tray linedwithpapertowel todry forat least30minutes–a littlepeanutoil canbe sprinkledoverthemtopreventsticking.Heatsufficientpeanutoilinawokorheavy-based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry thenoodles, in batches, until crisp andgoldenbrown.Drain onpaper towel.Thesecrispnoodlesareusedmainlyasagarnish.

Preparingwholechickens

JointingachickenIhaveoftenreferredtocuttingachickenintoservingpiecessuitableforacurry.Thisissimplycuttingthepiecessmallerthanjointssothatthespicescanmorereadilypenetrateandflavourthemeat.

Tojointachicken,firstcutoffthethighsanddrumsticks,thenseparatethedrumsticks from the thighs. Cut off the wings and divide them at themiddlejoint(wingtipsmaybeaddedtoastockbutdonotcountasajoint).Thebreastisdivideddownthecentreintotwo,thenacrossintofourpieces–donotstartcookingthebreastpiecesatthesametimeastheothers,butaddthemlater,asbreastmeathasatendencytobecomedryifcookedfortoolong.

A1.5kg(3lb5oz)chicken,forinstance,canbejointed,thenbrokendownfurther into serving pieces. The thighs are cut into two with a heavy

cleaver;thebackiscutintofourpiecesandusedinthecurry,thoughnotcountedasservingpiecesbecausethereisverylittlemeatonthem.Neckandgibletsarealsoincludedtogiveextraflavour.

Preparingwholefish

CuttingfishfilletsintoservingpiecesFish fillets are of varying thickness, length and density. For example,wholefilletsofflatheadcanbedippedintempurabatterandwillcookinlessthanaminuteinhotoil,whereasafilletoflingortrevallawillneedtobecutinto3cm(1¼in)stripsforthesamerecipe.

Let common sense prevail when portioning fish fillets, but alwaysremember that fish is cooked when the flesh turns opaque when flakedwithaforkorknife.

CuttingfishsteaksintoservingpiecesDependingonthesizeofthefish,eachsteakmayneedtobecutintofour,sixoreightpieces.Onceagain,smallerportionsarebetter,fortheyallowflavours topenetrate andyoucan allowmore thanonepieceperperson.The accompanying sketch shows how to divide fish steaks – small onesintofourpieces,medium-sizedonesintosixpiecesandreallylargesteaksintoeightpieces.

Thailand

Thaicooking,likethatofthewholeofSoutheastAsia,isverymuchataste-and-addaffair.Whiletheresultsaresplendid,itisverydifficulttoobtainexactrecipesbecausemostThaicooksdon’tusethem.Itisbest towatchthecookclosely,notingeverymoveandtakingcarefulandcopiousnotes.

Duringmy first most enjoyable stay in Thailand I was fortunate tomeet andspeakwithsomeoutstandinglygoodThaicooksandlearnsomeoftheirrecipes.OnewasMomLuangTerbXoomsai, a charming andworldlymember of theThai nobilitywhowas famous for her good cooking.Between trips abroad torepresentThailandatfoodfestivalsandexhibitionssheranacateringfirmandtheSEATOcanteen.

I lunchedat thecanteenasherguest,andchose to taste theThaidishes ratherthan the European-style food that was also provided. After lunch we sat andtalked, thenshe tookmeinto thekitchen toshowmehowvarious thingsweredone.Allinall,Ihaveseldomspentsoedifyinganafternoon.

She pointed out that, like every country, Thailand has a classic cuisine and apeasant cuisine. She uses both, depending on the occasion. The meals in thecanteenare,shesaid,ofthepeasantstyle(butdelicious,justdelicious)andwhenshecateredforpartiessomethinggranderwasusuallyrequired.Anexampleofthis,beingprepared thenforaspecialparty thenextday,was lugchup,whichtranslatesas‘smallmagic’–andthat’sexactlywhatitwas.

Tinymoulded fruits looking likemarzipan fruit, butmoredelicate, they shonewith a glaze that could have been a thin sugar coating at the brilliantly clearhard-crack stage.However, the fruitswerenotmarzipanbutmungbeanpaste,

sweetened with sugar and coloured and flavoured with fresh fruits andvegetables. ‘I would not touch them if they had artificial colouring andflavouring,’vowedTerbXoomsai.Norwastheglazesugar(whichwouldmeltinThailand’shumidclimate);thefruitshadbeendippedinanagar-agarsolutiontogivethemaclearandcompletelynon-stickycoating.Tinynaturalcalyxesfromfruitswereattachedandthewholeeffectwasoneofdelicacyandbeauty.

I also met chef Miki Pichit, chef de cuisine at the Oriental Hotel, one ofBangkok’s oldest and most famous hotels. I had been overwhelmed by hispresentationofThaifoodat the lavishbanquetheldtomarktheLoyKrathongfestival, the biggest celebration of the year. It takes place on the full of thetwelfthmoonandsymbolisesthepassingoftheoldandthecomingofthenewlunaryear.

Lotus-shapedkrathongsorfloatsmadefromflowers,leaves,colouredpaperand(amoderntouch)polystyrenefoamtokeepthemafloat,aresentdowntheChaoPhrayaRiver, eachwith lightedcandlesand incense sticks in them.The lightsflickeringonthewaterareaprettysight,butnotmanysurvivemorethanashortdistance downstreamwhere scores of little boyswait in boats to snatch themfrom the water and profit from the baht coins tucked into them by devoteeshopingtopropitiatethegods.

Because the hotel is right on the river, there is a spectacular celebration heldthereeachyearattendedbytouristsandlocalsocietyalike.Tableauxpresentedonanopen-airstagetellstoriesofthegrandeurofancientSiam.Beautifulgirlsinbreathtakingcostumesdance traditionaldances.There ismusicandsinging,and an interpreter with a microphone translates for the benefit of farangs, orforeigners.

Every conceivable dish was displayed at the banquet, bothWestern and Thaistyle.Smokedsalmonandhamviedforattentionwithkaeng(disheswithgravy)ofeverykindandsuchaselectionofkruengkieng (sidedishes) thatdiscretionanddietswerecasttothewinds.AmongthemostdeliciousandcuriousdishesItastedwas a finelypoundedpasteof fresh fish seasonedwith the ever-presentThaiflavouringcombinationofcoriander(cilantro)roots,peppercornsandgarlicgroundtogether.Thiswassteamedinbananaleavesthathadbeencutandcurvedto look like a flower. I met this combination again at a very exclusive Thairestaurant,whenitwassteamedintheshapeoftinyfish,eachonenolargerthanathumb,andpresentedonlettuceleavesasthoughswimmingaroundthedish.

Thesweetsofeveryshape,flavourandhuewereasdazzlingtotheeyeaswasthe display of fireworks on the river. I could not help butwonder howmanyhoursofworkhadgoneintothemakingofhundredsoftinybasketsmadefrombai toey (pandanus leaves), each holding a mere mouthful of sweets madevariously from glutinous rice, yams, agar-agar jelly, mung bean paste, mungbean flour and, of course, the richness of coconut milk and the sweetness ofpalm sugar (jaggery). I particularly enjoyed the ice cream made from freshcoconut milk. Delicately sweet, ice-cold, creamy but not too rich, it was theperfect ending to a perfectmeal.A chef stood by the old-fashioned ice-creamchurn,scoopingoutservingsforguestswhostillhadsomespacelefttotasteit.

On a tour of the hotel kitchens I met chef Silaprachai, a specialist in fruitcarving. Ifyouhavenotseenfruitascarvedby theThais,youcannot imaginetheimpactofhugepyramidsofmelons,papayas,lamoot(sapodilla),mandarins,pomelos (Chinese grapefruit), champoos (rose apple/jambul) and rambutan allsculpted to resemble flowers. Themelons in particular, being large enough todecorateinmoreelaboratefashion,boreclassicdesignscutintotheskinandinsomeinstanceswerecarvedtolooklikebirds,eachfeatherseparateandperfect.

ItamazesthevisitortoThailandtoseethecarethatgoesintoeventhesmallestdetail.Eventhekrathongs,tobeadmiredforafewhoursandthenfloateddowntheriver,wereformedwithsuchdexterityandattentiontodetail.Each‘petal’ofthelotusshapes,approximatelyahandspaninlength,wascomposedofhundredsof tiny red rose petals, each one rolled separately to form a flaring cone andarranged in perfectly symmetrical rows. These ‘petals’ were then edged withtightwhitebudsofajasmine-likeflower.

ServingandeatingaThaimealAsintherestofSoutheastAsia,Thailand’sstaplefoodisrice.Thewordsforriceandfoodaresynonymousandeverythingelseiscalled‘withtherice’.Thailandisoneofthegreatestrice-growingcountriesintheworldandexportsofriceaccountforalmosthalfofthecountry’sexportrevenue.Thereareasmany,ifnotmore,ceremonialritualsattachedtotheplantingandharvestingofriceinThailandasthereareinotherAsiancountries,wherericerepresentslifeandisreveredassuch.

TocookriceintheThaimanner,choosejasminerice,anaturallyfragrantlong-grain rice or, if unavailable, another long-grain variety of polishedwhite rice.Thaicookswashthericeseveraltimes,butthereisnoneedtodothisifthericeis clean, for washing carries away soluble nutrients. It is then cooked by theabsorptionmethod.

Anothermethod is to soak the riceovernight, then todrain and steam it.Thistakesmuchlonger thancookingitdirectly in thewater,butgivesaveryfluffyandgrainyresult.However,itmustbeserveddirectlywhenitisready,becauseitwill go hard and dry if left to stand.Thismethod is almost always usedwithglutinous rice, a special variety much prized in northern Thailand, Laos andothercountriesinthearea.ExceptinLaos,itisusedexclusivelyinthemakingofsweets.

AThaimealisbasedonrice,butthenumberandvarietyofdishesservedwiththericeislimitedonlybythecook’stime,imagination,patienceandbudget.Itiscustomary to have a soup, two or more kaeng and as many krueng kieng aspossible. These can be prepared beforehand and served at room temperature.Thereisnot,inThailand,theWesterncompulsiontohaveeverythingpipinghot.Justcookthericeatthelastmomentsoitwillbesteamingfreshandallwillbewell.

ModernThaiseatmostlywithspoonandfork,thoughforthosewhocanmanagetheold-fashionedway,withthefingers,thefooddoesseemtotasteevenbetter.Everythingisservedatonceanddinerstakethisorthataccordingtoindividualtaste,combiningortastingseparatelyeachdishagainsttheblandbackgroundofrice.Rice inThailand is never cookedwith salt.Seasonings and sauces addedlatermakeitinadvisabletocookricewithsalt,becausethesaucesaresostrongandsalty.

UtensilsYou don’t need anything very special in the way of equipment to cook Thaifood. But, like the cooking of many Asian countries, Thai food uses groundspices and fresh herbs for flavouring and a food processor helps. So does amortarandpestleforpoundingsmallquantities.

A wok is, once again, the classic shape for the stir-frying technique that isemployedinmanydishes,soifyouenjoycookingChinese,Thai,IndonesianorotherAsianfood,itwillbeawiseinvestment.

FreshingredientsIn addition to the shelf ingredients listed opposite, try to grow lemongrass inyour garden. The dried, powdered version pales in comparison. Coriander(cilantro)isessentialtoThaifood;ifyouareinanareawhereyoucannotbuyit,grow some from seed. Fresh makrut (kaffir lime) leaves add a unique anddistinctiveflavourtomanyThaidishes.Cutintohair-finestrandsandsprinkledon top of salads or finished dishes, pounded with other ingredients to makefragrantspicepastesorsimmeredwholeincurries,theircontributioncannotbeunderestimated. Tender leaves from other citrus may be substituted, but theeffectisnotthesame.Inadditiontothesekeyfreshingredients,therearethreevarietiesofThaibasil,kaprow,horapaandmanglak,whicharewidelyusedandpack a real flavourpunch.Get toknow themand, if you are an aficionadoofThaicuisine,considergrowingthem.Likewise, freshThaichillies(thesmallerandthinnerthechilli,thehotteritwillbe).

YourThaishelfblackpeppercorns,wholecardamom,wholepodsorgroundcellophane(beanthread)noodleschillies,driedredorpowdercinnamon,sticksorgroundcloves,wholeorground

coconut,desiccated(shredded)coconutmilkandcreamcoriander,groundcumin,grounddriedprawn(shrimp)powderdriedshrimpdriedshrimppaste(kapi)

driedtofusheets

fishsaucegalangal,freshorbrinedginger,redpickled

glutinousriceGreencurrypastegreenpeppercorns,inbrinejasmineorotherlong-grainricekencur(aromaticginger)powderlaos(driedgalangal)powderlilybuds(goldenneedles),driedMasamancurrypaste

mungbeanflourpalmsugar(jaggery)orsoftordarkbrownsugarpaprikapeanutoilorothervegetableoilpeanuts,rawRedcurrypastericevermicelli(rice-stick)noodlesshiitakemushrooms,driedsoysauce,lightanddark

tamarindpulp

tapiocaflourThaichillisauce(sriracha)turmeric,groundwoodearfungus,driedyellowbeansauce(taucheo)

KrungKaeingKhieuWanGreencurrypasteCoriander(cilantro)isaherbthatispronetocollectsand.Washitverythoroughly,especiallytherootsandstemswheretheyjointheplant,asthisiswheremostsoilcollects.

Makes:1cup

4largefreshgreenchillies

1teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns

8redAsianshallotsor1smallbrownonion,chopped

1tablespoonfinelychoppedgarlic

2tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves,stemandroot1stemlemongrass,whitepartonly,finelychopped,or2teaspoonsfinelygratedlemonzest1teaspoonsalt

2teaspoonsgroundcoriander

1teaspoongroundcumin

1slicefreshgalangalor1teaspoonlaos(driedgalangal)powder2teaspoonsdriedshrimppaste1teaspoongroundturmeric

1tablespoonoil

Removethestemsfromthechilliesandkeeptheseedsinifyouwantthecurrypastetobehot.Roughlychopthechilliesandputintoafoodprocessorwiththeremaining ingredients. Process to a smooth paste, turning off the motor andscrapingdownthesidesuntilwellcombined.Youmayneedtoaddalittleextraoil or a tablespoon ofwater to blend everything together. Store in a sterilisedairtightjarintherefrigeratorforupto6weeks.

KrungKaengMasamanMasaman(Muslim)currypasteYoucanmakethiscurrypastetwoways–eitherusingthewholespices,roastingandgrindingthem(youwillneedalargemortarandpestleforthis)orbyusinggroundspices.Ihavetestedthisrecipebothwaysandtheyareequallysuccessful;alreadygroundspicesareaboonwhenyouarepushedfortime.

Makes:1½cups

7–10driedredchilliesor2teaspoonschillipowder2tablespoonscorianderseedsorgroundcoriander1teaspooncuminorfennelseedsorgroundfennel2slicesfreshgalangal,chopped,or2teaspoonslaos(driedgalangal)powder5wholeclovesor½teaspoongroundcloves1cinnamonstickor1teaspoongroundcinnamon5cardamompodsor½teaspoongroundcardamom1blademaceor½teaspoongroundmace

2tablespoonsoil

2onions,thinlysliced5garliccloves,thinlysliced½teaspoondriedshrimppaste1teaspoonfinelychoppedlemongrassorfinelygratedlemonzestBreakthechillies,shakingoutanddiscardingtheseeds,thenroastlightlyinadryfryingpan.Poundusingamortarandpestle.Roastthecorianderseedsuntilaromaticanddarkbrown,shakingthepanfrequentlyorstirring.Poundinamortaruntilreducedtoafinepowder(ifspicesarepoundedwhilehottheyareeasily

pulverised).Roastthecuminseedsuntiltheycrackleandstarttopop,thengrindtoapowder.Addthelaospowdertothegroundspices.

Parch the whole cloves, cinnamon stick, cardamom pods and mace in a dryfryingpanoverlowheatforafewminutes,shakingthepan.Ifyouseparatethecinnamonstickintolayers,itwillroastmorequickly.Grindallthespicesusingamortarandpestletoafinepowderandcombinewiththepreviouslyroastedandgroundingredients.Setaside.

Heat theoil ina fryingpanover lowheat.Add theonionandgarlicandcookuntil soft and golden brown, stirring occasionally.Add the dried shrimp pasteandstir-fryforaminutelonger,crushingitintheoilwiththebackofaspoon.Putthisfriedmixture,whenithascooledslightly,intoafoodprocessorwiththelemongrassandprocess toapaste. Ifusingfreshgalangal,addat thisstage. Ifnecessary, add a little coconutmilk orwater to assist processing. Turn into abowlandcombinewiththedrygroundspices.Thecurrypasteisnowreadytouse.

Ifusingready-groundspices,dry-roastthegroundcorianderandfenneloverlowheat,stirringconstantlyandtakingcaretheydonotburn.Roastuntiltheyturnarich brown and have an aromatic smell. It is not necessary to roast the chillipowderortheothergroundspices.

If a food processor is not available, crush the onions and garlic as much aspossibleaftertheyarecooked,usingamortarandpestle,thencombinewiththespices.

KrungKaengPhedRedcurrypasteThisversatilecurrypasteissuitableforseafood,meatandpoultrycurriesandisalsoadeliciousflavourbaseforChilliFriedRice.

Makes:1cup

4–6driedredchillies16redAsianshallotsor2smallbrownonions,chopped1teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns2teaspoonsgroundcumin

1tablespoongroundcoriander

2tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves,stemandroot

1teaspoonsalt

2tablespoonsfreshlemongrass,whitepartonly,finelychopped1slicefreshgalangalor1teaspoonlaos(driedgalangal)powder1tablespoonfinelychoppedgarlic2teaspoonsdriedshrimppaste1tablespoonoil

1teaspoongroundturmeric

2teaspoonspaprika

Removethestemsfromthechilliesandkeeptheseedsinifyouwantthecurrypastetobehot.Roughlychopthechilliesandputintoafoodprocessorwiththeremaining ingredients. Process to a smooth paste, turning off the motor andscrapingdownthesidesuntilwellcombined.Youmayneedtoaddalittleextraoil or a tablespoon ofwater to blend everything together. Store in a sterilised

airtightjarintherefrigeratorforupto6weeks.

KhaoKlukKapiRicewithkapi

Serves:6

1tablespoondriedshrimp

2eggs,lightlybeaten80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)oil

1tablespoondriedshrimppaste

4–5largegarliccloves,finelychopped2freshbird’seyeorThaibushchillies(veryhot,tinychillies),deseededandfinelychopped125g(4½oz/½cup)finelydicedcookedpork1quantitycoldSteamedwhiterice(opposite)2–3tablespoonsfishsauce1smallhandfulfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves,choppedSoakthedriedshrimpinhotwaterfor10minutes.Drainwellandfinelychop.

Seasontheeggwithsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper.Heat1tablespoonoftheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpan.Pourinhalfoftheeggtomakeanomelette,thenremovetoaplatetocool;donotfoldtheomelette.Repeatwiththeremainingegg.Whencool,putoneomeletteontopoftheother,rollupandcutintothinstrips.

Wrapthedriedshrimppasteinapieceoffoilandroastunderapreheatedgrill(broiler)for5minutes,turninghalfwaythroughcookingtime.

Heat the remainingoil inacleanwokover lowheat.Add thegarlicandchilliandcookuntilthegarlicisgolden.Addtheshrimpsanddriedshrimppasteandstir-fryfor2–3minutes.Addtheporkandstir-fryfor1minute,thenaddthericeandtosstogetheruntilheatedthrough.Seasonwiththefishsaucetotaste.

To serve, pile the rice onto a platter and garnishwith the omelette strips and

corianderleaves.Morehotchilliesmaybeusedasagarnish.

KhaoSueySteamedwhitericeServes:6–8500g(1lb2oz/2½cups)long-grainriceWashthericewellanddraininacolanderfor30minutes.Putthericeand750ml(25½floz/3cups)waterintoalargesaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattomediumandcook,uncovered,untilthewaterisabsorbedandholesappearonthesurface.Removefromtheheat,scoopthericeintoasteamerorcolanderandsteamoverfastboilingwaterfor25–30minutes,oruntilthegrainsaretender,yetfirmandseparate.

Ifyouarelookingforalessfiddlymethod,whentheholesappearonthesurface,coverthepanwithafoldedcleanteatowel(dishtowel)andplaceawell-fittinglidoverthetoptosealthepan.Reducetheheattolowandcookthericeforafurther 10minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to stand, covered, for afurther10minutes.

KhaoPhatPrikChillifriedrice

The fish sauceand light soy sauceare interchangeableas far as adding salt tothisdish,butthefishsauceimpartsanadditionalinterestingflavour.

Serves:4

1quantitycoldSteamedwhiterice60ml(2floz/¼cup)peanutoil

1largeonion,finelychopped

2freshchillies,1redand1green,deseededandsliced,plusextratogarnish1tablespoonRedcurrypaste

1porkchop,finelydiced

500g(1lb2oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeled,deveinedandchoppedintopiecesiflarge

2eggs,lightlybeaten

60ml(2floz/¼cup)fishsauceorlightsoysauce6springonions(scallions),chopped1handfulfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves,choppedlimewedgestogarnish

Heatthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedsaucepan.Addtheonionandchilliandcookuntilsoft.Addthecurrypasteandstir-fryuntiltheoilseparates.Addtheporkandstir-fryuntilcooked,thenaddtheprawnsandstir-fryfor1–2minutes,oruntiltheyturnpink.

Addthericetothewokandtossthoroughlyuntilcoatedwiththecurrymixture

andheated through.Season the eggwith salt andpepper thenpush the rice toonesideofthewokandpourintheegg.Stiruntiltheeggstartstoset,thenmixthroughtherice,tossingoverhighheatuntiltheeggiscooked.Sprinklethefishsauceevenlyoverthericeandmixwell,thenremovefromtheheat.

Justbeforeserving,stirthroughthespringonion,thengarnishwiththecorianderleaves,extrachilliandlimewedges.

KhaoPhatThaifriedrice

Thisdishisamealinitself.Youwillgetthebestresultsifthecookedriceisstillslightlyfirmwithveryseparategrains.

Serves:4

1quantitycoldSteamedwhiterice60ml(2floz/¼cup)peanutoil2onions,finelychopped1largeporkchop,finelydiced250g(9oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined175g(6oz/1cup)crabmeat3eggs,lightlybeaten

2tablespoonsfishsauce

1tablespoonThaichillisauce(sriracha)(optional)

2tablespoonstomatopaste

65g(2¼oz/1cup)slicedspringonions(scallions)1smallhandfulfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves,choppedHeatthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedsaucepanoverlowheat.Addtheonionandcookuntilsoft.Increasetheheattohigh,addtheporkandstir-fryfor3minutes.Addtheprawnsandcrabmeatandstir-fryforafurther3minutes,oruntiltheprawnsturnpink.

Season the eggwith salt and freshly groundblackpepper, thenpush themeatandseafoodtoonesideofthewokandpourintheegg.Stiruntiltheeggstartstoset,thenmixthroughthericeandtossuntilwellcombinedandheatedthrough.Sprinkle the fish sauce evenly over the rice andmixwell, then add the chillisauce and tomato paste and toss thoroughly so the rice has a reddish colour.Removefromtheheat.

Justbeforeserving,stirthroughthespringonion,thengarnishwiththecoriander

leaves.

PhatWunSenMixedfriedvermicelli

Serves:4

250g(9oz)ricevermicelli(rice-stick)noodles10driedshiitakemushrooms

2tablespoonspeanutoil

3largegarliccloves,finelychopped2freshredchillies(optional),deseededandfinelychopped185g(6½oz)porkfillet,thinlysliced250g(9oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeled,deveinedandchopped2leeks,whitepartonly,thinlysliced,or6springonions(scallions)1tinnedbambooshoot,cutintothinmatchsticks2carrots,cutintothinmatchsticks2tablespoonsfishsauce

1tablespoonwhitevinegar1teaspoonsalt

2teaspoonssugar

½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper3tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesFriedshallots(optional)

Soak the vermicelli in boiling water for 5minutes, then drain well. Soak themushroomsinhotwaterfor20–30minutes,thendrainwell,cutoffanddiscardthestemsandthinlyslicethecaps.

Heatthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverlowheat.Addthegarlicandchilliandcookuntilsoft.Movetoonesideofthewok,increasetheheattomedium,addtheporkandstir-fryfor3–4minutes,oruntilcooked.Add the prawns, leek, bamboo shoot and carrot and stir-fry for a further 3minutes.

Combinealltheseasonings,addtothewok,andsimmerfor1minute,thenaddthe vermicelli noodles and toss until wellmixed and heated through.Garnishwiththecorianderleavesand,ifliked,friedshallots.

MaUonFathorses

Somewhat reminiscent of a dim sum filling, but seasoned differently, thiscombination of pork, chicken and crabmeat is steamed in tiny cups instead ofpastry.Chinesewinecupsareasuitablesize.

Makes:12–16

125g(4½oz)cookedcrabmeat125g(4½oz)porkloin,bothleanandfat,trimmedandfinelychopped125g(4½oz)bonelessskinlesschickenbreast,finelychopped2tablespoonschoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves,stemsandroots¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper5garliccloves,crushed

1tablespoonfinelychoppedspringonion(scallion)

2tablespoonscoconutcream1teaspoongratedpalmsugar(jaggery)1largeeggor2smalleggsFlakethecrabmeat,discardinganybonytissue,thenchopitfinely.Placeinabowlwiththepork,chicken,coriander,pepper,garlic,springonion,fishsauce,coconutcreamandpalmsugar.

Separatetheeggwhitefromtheyolk, leavingtheyolkintheeggshell.Withasmallspoonortheendofachopstick,breakuptheyolk,thenaddhalfofittothewhiteandbeatuntil foamy.Addto theporkmixtureandmixwelluntilall theingredientsarethoroughlycombined.

Divide themixture between twelve or sixteen 60ml (2 oz/¼ cup)moulds orbowls,pressingfirmly, thenbrushover the topofeachwith theremainingeggyolk.Steaminabasketoversimmeringwaterfor20minutes,oruntilnolongerpink.Allowtocool,thenremovefromthecupsandserveatroomtemperature.

MeeKrobCrispynoodles

Theessential featureof thisdish is that thevermicellinoodles shouldbecrispandcrunchy.Thesalty,hot,sweetandsourflavoursneednoaccompaniment.

Serves:6

200g(7oz)ricevermicelli(rice-stick)noodles750ml(25½floz/3cups)peanutoil125g(4½oz)minced(ground)porkorchicken125g(4½oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeled,deveinedandchopped185g(6½oz/1cup)finelydicedpressedfirmtofu80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)whitevinegar75g(2¾oz/⅓cup)sugar80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)fishsauce3eggs,lightlybeaten

2wholeheadspickledgarlic,thinlysliced

3freshredchillies,deseededandsliced

1handfulfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves,chopped15g(½oz/¼cup)finelychoppedgarlicchivesDipthericenoodlesbrieflyincoldwater,thenshakeoffanyexcesswaterandleaveinabreezyplaceforabout30minutes.(Whenfried,rinsednoodleswillnotpuffupasspectacularlyaswhenfriedstraightfromthepacket,butwillstaycrisperforlonger.)Heatthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Whentheoilishot,deep-frythevermicellinoodles,inbatches–theyshouldpuffandswellimmediately.Removefromtheoilusingaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowel.Allowtocoolcompletely.

Pouroffallbut60ml(2floz/¼cup)oftheoilandcooktheporkoverhighheat,stirringuntilitisnolongerpink.Addtheprawnsandstir-fryfor1minute,thenaddthetofuandtossuntilheatedthrough.

In a bowl, stir together the vinegar, sugar and fish sauce until the sugar hasdissolved,thenpourintothewokandbringtotheboil.Seasontheeggwithsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperandadd to thewok,stirringuntil it issetandfirm.Add the friednoodles,pickledgarlic andmostof thechilli andchopped

herbs. Mix well. Garnish with the remaining chilli and herbs and serveimmediately.

MaHoGallopinghorses

This savoury porkmixture is used as a filling or topping for fresh fruit. Thecontrastingflavoursaredeliciouslytantalising.Minced(ground)chickenmaybesubstitutedifporkisnotonthemenu.

Serves:8

5garliccloves4freshcoriander(cilantro)roots2tablespoonslardoroil250g(9oz)porkloin,bothleanandfat,trimmedandfinelychopped,oruseminced(ground)pork50g(1¾oz/⅓cup)roastedpeanuts,coarselyground1½tablespoonsfishsauce

⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper120g(4½oz/⅔cup)gratedpalmsugar(jaggery)1freshredchilli,deseededandchopped2tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesmandarins,pineappleslicesorrambutanstoserveCrushthegarlicandcorianderrootsusingamortarandpestle.Heatthelardinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverlowheat.Addthegarlicmixtureandcookuntilitturnsgolden.Addthepork,peanuts,fishsauce,pepper,palmsugar,chilliandcorianderleavesandcontinuetostir-fryuntilthemixtureiswellcooked,darkbrownincolourandquitedry.

Topreparethefruit,peelthemandarins,removingthewhitepith,thenseparateinto segments and cut each segment open down the back. Lay them flat on aservingdish.Peel thepineapple, removing theeyesandcoreandcut intobite-sizedpieces.Peeltherambutansandremovetheseeds.

Pile theporkmixtureon topof themandarinsegmentsorpineapplepieces,orintothehollowoftherambutans.Servewithrice,orontheirownasastarter.

The closest substitute to rambutans are lychees. Out of season these can beboughtintins–theywillneedtobedrainedandthestonesremoved.

PratadLomPorkandcrabballs

Makes:12

6largedriedtofuskins175g(6oz/1cup)crabmeat250g(9oz)porkfillet,finelychopped60g(2oz)porkfat,finelychopped2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves1teaspoonsalt

¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tablespoonslightlybeatenegg1tablespooncornflour(cornstarch)oilforfrying

80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)whitevinegar2garliccloves,crushed¼teaspoonsalt2freshredchillies,deseededandfinelychopped¼teaspoonSambalulek

Soakthetofuskinsinwarmwatertosoften.Drainwell,thencutintotwelve10cm(4in)squares.

Tomake the filling, flake the crabmeat, discarding anybony tissue, then chopfinely.Place inabowlwith the remaining ingredients, except theoil, andmixthoroughly.Putascant tablespoonof thefillingoneachtofusquare,gatheruptheedgesandtie in themiddletoformapratadlom (crackerball)–aplastic-covered wire twist tie is ideal for holding the tofu skins together duringsteaming.

Tomakethesauce,combinealltheingredientsinasmallbowlandstirwelltocombine.Setaside.

Steamtheballs inabasketoversimmeringwaterfor10–12minutes.Allowto

coolslightlyandremovethetwistties.

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Whenthe oil is hot, deep-fry the balls, in batches, until crisp and golden. Drain onpapertowel.Servewiththesauce.

Wontonwrappersmaybeusedinsteadoftofuskin,butthetexturewillbequitedifferent.

TauhuSodSaiStuffedsoybeancakeMakes:12

oilforfrying125g(4½oz)minced(ground)pork3garliccloves,crushed¼teaspoonsalt⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves2teaspoonsfishsauce

12largedeep-friedtofupuffs

Heat1tablespoonofoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpan.Addthepork,garlic, salt andpepperandstir-fryuntilwellcooked.Add thecoriander leavesandfishsauceandstirwelltocombine.Removefromtheheat.

Makeasmallholeineachofthetofupuffs(theendofachopstickisusefulforthis)andstuffsomeoftheporkmixtureintotheopening.

Heattheoilinawokoverhighheat.Deep-frythestuffedtofu,inbatches,untilcooked.Drainonpapertowel.

KhanomKrokCrispyricepancakes

Thepantraditionallyusedtocookthesecouldbestcomparedtoanaebelskiverpanorgemsconeiron.Cookthesedeliciouslittlecakesonagasstoveorinahotoven. In case you think the juxtaposition of sweet and savoury in the toppingodd,restassuredthatisapartoftheircharm.

Makes:24

200g(7oz/1cup)jasminerice4tablespoonscookedrice60g(2oz/1cup)gratedfreshcoconut¼teaspoonsalt

1tablespoonsugar750ml(25½floz/3cups)boilingwateroilforcooking65g(2¼oz/⅓cup)cornkernelstoserve3springonions(scallions),thinlysliced,toserve2tablespoonspoundeddriedshrimp(optional)toserve

Topping

250ml(8½floz/1cup)thickcoconutmilk2tablespoonscaster(superfine)sugar¼teaspoonsalt1tablespoontapiocaflourTomakethetopping,mixtogetherthecoconutmilkandsugarinalargebowl.Whiskinthesaltandtapiocaflouruntilcombined.

Combinebothtypesofrice,coconut,saltandsugarinalargebowl,pourintheboilingwaterandletstanduntilcold.Placeinafoodprocessorandprocessuntilground.

Heat a gem scone iron or aebelskiver pan and brushwith a little oil.Half-filleachhollowwiththericebatterandcookoverlowheatfor10minutes,oruntilfirm.Halfwaythroughcooking,topthepancakeswithascanttablespoonofthecoconutmilkmixtureandsprinklethetopwithalittleofthecorn,springonionandpoundeddried shrimp, if using.Cookuntil the topping is just set but stillwobblyandservewhilewarmandcrisp.

Thesecanalsobecookedinapreheated220°C(430°F)ovenfor10minutes.

HaeKunPrawnrolls

Serves:4

2largedriedtofuskins

250g(9oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeled,deveinedandchopped1tablespooncornflour(cornstarch)2tablespoonsporkfat,finelydiced1garlicclove,crushed

1teaspoonfinelygratedfreshginger

½teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperoilfordeep-fryingSoakthetofuskinsinwarmwatertosoften.Drainwell.

In a bowl, combine the prawns, cornflour, pork fat, garlic, ginger, salt andpepper.Dividein2equalportionsandshapeeachintoaroll.Placeeachoneonatofuskinand rollup.Steam inabasketover simmeringwater for10minutes.Allowtocool,thencutintoslicesdiagonally.

Heat theoil inawokor largeheavy-basedsaucepanovermediumheat.Whentheoilishot,deep-frytheprawnrolls,inbatches,untilgoldenbrown.

TomKhaKaiChickenandcoconutmilksoup

Serves:5

1.25kg(2lb12oz)wholechicken625ml(21floz/2½cups)thincoconutmilk1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshgalangalorlaos(driedgalangal)powder½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2–3freshcoriander(cilantro)roots,crushed2stemslemongrass,whitepartonly,sliced

3freshgreenchillies

1½teaspoonssalt3makrut(kaffirlime)leaves250ml(8½floz/1cup)thickcoconutmilk

1tablespoonfishsauce

limejuicetotaste

3tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesJointthechickenintoportions.

Put the chicken into a large saucepan with the thin coconut milk, galangal,pepper,corianderroot,lemongrass,wholechillies,saltandmakrutleaves.Bringtotheboil, thenreducetheheat to lowandsimmeruntil thechickenis tender,stirringoccasionally.Addthethickcoconutmilkandreturntotheboil,stirringconstantly.Removefromtheheatandstirinthefishsauceandlimejuice.

Serve the soup in a deep dish or bowl and garnishwith the coriander leaves.Accompanywithwhiterice.

KaengChudDokMaiChinPrawnsoupwithlilybudsServes:6–8

90g(3oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles30driedlilybuds(goldenneedles)

8driedshiitakemushrooms

4–5garliccloves,chopped3wholefreshcoriander(cilantro)plants,includingleavesandroots60ml(2floz/¼cup)peanutoil500g(1lb2oz)smallrawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined,headsandshellsreserved1onion,thinlysliced

6springonions(scallions),thinlysliced80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)fishsauce1tablespoonlightsoysauce1teaspoonsugar

3tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesSoakthenoodlesinhotwaterfor20minutes,thendrain.Cutinto5cm(2in)lengths.Inabowl,soakthelilybudsandthemushroomsinhotwaterfor30minutes.Pinchoffthehardendsofthelilybudsandtieaknotineachone(thisiswhattheThaisandChinesedo).Ifyouareshortontime,cutthebudsinhalf.Cutoffanddiscardthemushroomstemsandthinlyslicethecaps.

Putthegarlicandcorianderintoafoodprocessorwith2tablespoonswaterandprocesstoapurée.Setaside.

Heat1tablespoonofthepeanutoilinalargesaucepanoverhighheat.Addtheprawnshellsandheadsandcook fora fewminutesuntil theshells turnbrightpink.Add2litres(68floz/8cups)water,cover,andsimmerfor20minutes,thenstrainthestock,discardingtheshells.

Heat theremainingoil ina largecleansaucepanover lowheat.Add theonionandcookuntilsoft.Addthegarlicandcorianderpuréeandstirconstantlyuntil

theoilseparates.Addtheprawnsandcookfor3minutes,oruntiltheyturnpink.Add the hot stock, lily buds, mushrooms and noodles and bring to the boil.Reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor5minutes,thenaddthespringonion,fishsauce,soysauceandsugar.Lightlybeattheeggsandpourintotheboilingsoup,stirring constantly. Remove from the heat. Serve garnishedwith the corianderleaves.

KungTomYamPrawnsoup

Serves:6

1tablespoonoil

1kg(2lb3oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined,headsandshellsreserved1½teaspoonssalt2stemslemongrass,whitepartonly,or4stripslemonzest4makrut(kaffirlime)leaves2–3freshwholeredchillies,plus1extra,deseededandsliced

2tablespoonslimejuice,ortotaste2tablespoonschoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves4springonions(scallions),finelychoppedHeattheoilinalargesaucepanoverhighheat.Addtheprawnshellsandheadsandcookforafewminutesuntiltheshellsturnbrightpink.Add2litres(68floz/8cups)hotwater,thesalt,lemongrass,makrutleavesandwholechillies.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,cover,andsimmerfor20minutes.Strainthestock,discardingthesolidsandreturnthestocktoacleanpan.

Bringthestockbacktotheboil,addtheprawnsandsimmerfor3–4minutes,oruntiltheprawnsarecookedthrough.Addthefishsauceandlimejuicetotaste.Thissoupshouldhaveapronouncedacidflavour,soaddsufficientlimejuicetoachievethis.

Toserve,sprinklewiththeextraslicedchilli,corianderleavesandspringonion.

KaengChudMuKaiPorkandchickensoup

Serves:6

½smallchickenor2chickenlegs125ml(4floz/½cup)fishsauce90g(3oz/½cup)gratedpalmsugar(jaggery)

1teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns

1wholecoriander(cilantro)plant,includingleavesandroots½teaspoonsalt90g(3oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles

500g(1lb2oz)Sweetpork(muwan)instock3tablespoonschoppedspringonion(scallion)3tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves1freshredchilli,deseededandsliced(optional)Putthechickenintoasaucepanwiththefishsauce,palmsugar,peppercorns,corianderplant,saltand1.5litres(51floz/6cups)water.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,cover,andsimmeruntilthechickenistender.Strainthestock,reserving1litre(34floz/4cups).Discardtheskinandbonesandfinelyshredthemeat.

Soak thenoodles inhotwater for20minutes, thendrain.Cut into5cm(2 in)lengths.Soak themushrooms inhotwater for20–30minutes, thendrainwell,cutoffanddiscardthestemsandthinlyslicethecaps.

Cuthalftheporkintodice,reservingtheremainingporkforuseinanotherdish,or simply serve as sweet pork.Measure 500ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) of the porkstock.

Put thechickenstockandporkstockina largesaucepanandbringtotheboil.Add thenoodlesandmushroomsandsimmer for10minutes.Add thechickenandpork,springonionandcoriander leavesand turnoff theheat immediately.

Servegarnishedwiththechilli,ifdesired.

PlaNerngSteamedfish

Serves:6

500g(1lb2oz)skinless,boneless,firmwhitefishfillets2driedredchillies1teaspoonsalt1smallonion,chopped3garliccloves,chopped½teaspoonchoppedlemonzest½teaspoongroundturmeric¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tablespoonsfishsauce250ml(8½floz/1cup)thickcoconutmilk

1egg,lightlybeaten1largecabbageleaf1teaspoonriceflour(optional)3tablespoonsfinelychoppedspringonion(scallion)2tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesWipethefishwithdamppapertowel.Cutthefishinto6servingportions(seepreparingwholefish).

Put thechillies, salt,onion,garlic, lemonzest, turmeric,pepperandfishsauceinto a foodprocessor andprocess to a smooth paste.Add1 tablespoonof thecoconutmilkifneeded.

Puttheblendedmixtureintoalargebowlwithhalfofthecoconutmilkandtheeggandmixwelltocombine.Addthefish,stirgentlytocoatandleaveforafewminutesuntilthefishabsorbstheliquid.

Line a bakingdishwith the cabbage leaf.Turn the fish andmarinade into theleaf. In a separate bowl,mix together the rice flour, if using, with remainingcoconutmilkandspoonoverthetopofthefish.Sprinklewiththespringonionandcorianderleaves.Coverthedishandsteamoverboilingwaterforabout10minutes,oruntilthefishisdone.Allowtocoolslightlyandfirmbeforeservingwithrice.

Ifyoudonothaveasteamer,youcansteamthefishinahotovenforabout15minutes,oruntildone.

KhieuWanPlaGreencurryoffish

Thedouble-lobedmakrut(kaffirlime)leafhasaveryfragrant,distinctivetaste.Try to purchase fresh leaves,whichmay then be stored in the freezer. If youcan’t get them, substitute tender leaves fromother citrus fruit, but the flavourwon’tbe thesame. Ifyou live ina temperateclimate,askat the localnursery.Youmay be surprised to find they have the trees, labelled kaffir lime orThailime.Theyareprettyhardyand rewardyouwith ayear-round sourceof freshlimeleaves.

Serves:4

500g(1lb2oz)skinless,boneless,firmwhitefishfilletsorsteaks625ml(21floz/2½cups)coconutmilk

2tablespoonsGreencurrypaste2makrut(kaffirlime)leaves1teaspoonsalt

1–2smallfreshgreenchillies,deseededandchopped

2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshbasil

Wipe thefishwithdamppaper towel.Cut thefish into4servingportions(seepreparingwholefish).

Put the coconut milk in a large heavy-based saucepan with the curry paste,stirringconstantly.Add the fish,makrut leaves, salt and fish sauce, reduce theheattolowandsimmerforabout15minutes,oruntilthefishiscookedthrough.Add the chilli and fresh basil and simmer for a further 3–4minutes. Removefromtheheatandservewithwhiterice.Ifyoulikeareallyhotcurry,leavetheseedsinthechillies.

PlaTodFriedfishwithtamarindThisdishistraditionallycookedinlard,butalightflavouredoilwillworkjustaswell.

Serves:4–6

1½tablespoonstamarindpulp1kg(2lb3oz)wholefishlardoroilforfrying3garliccloves,crushed

3tablespoonssoysauce

1tablespoongratedpalmsugar(jaggery)2tablespoonsfishsauce

1tablespoonfinelygratedfreshginger

3springonions(scallions),cutintoshortlengths3tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves3freshredchillies,deseededandslicedSoakthetamarindpulpin80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)hotwaterfor10minutes.Squeezetodissolvethepulpinthewater,thenstrain,discardingtheseedsandfibre.Setaside.

Cleanandscale the fish, leaving theheadon.Wipe inside the fishcavitywithdamppapertowelthathasfirstbeendippedincoarsesalt.Trimanylongspinesorfinsneatly.

Heatthelardinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Cookthefishonbothsides,butdonotovercook.Drainonpapertowel,coverthefishwithfoilandkeepwarm.

Pouroffallbut1tablespoonofthelardandcookthegarlicoverlowheatuntilstartingtobrown.Addthesoysauce,palmsugar,fishsauceandtamarindliquid

andbringtotheboil.Addthegingerandspringonionandcookforafurther1minute.

To serve, spoon the warm sauce over the fish and serve garnished with thecorianderleavesandchilli,andwhitericeontheside.

PlaNamFishinredsauce

Serves:4–6

750g(1lb11oz)skinless,boneless,firmwhitefishfillets80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)oil2onions,finelychopped4ripetomatoes,peeledandchopped

2tablespoonsvinegar

2–3freshredchillies,deseededandchopped3–4tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesHeattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addtheonionandcookuntilsoftandgolden.Addthetomato,vinegar,chilliandseasonwithsaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste.Coverandsimmerfor20minutes,oruntilthesaucehasthickened.

Addthefishtothewok,cover,andcontinuesimmeringuntilthefishiscookedthrough.Servehot,sprinkledwiththecorianderleaves.

PlaPrioWanWholefriedfishwithgingersauceThisisasimpleanddeliciouswayofservingfish.Preparetheingredientsforthesaucebeforeyoustarttocookthefish.Thesaucecansimmerwhilethefishisbeingfriedandthedishservedimmediatelywhenthefishiscooked,whileatitsbest.

Serves:2–3

1kg(2lb3oz)wholefish,suchassnapper,breamorjewfishflourseasonedwithsalt

oilforfryingcoriander(cilantro)sprigstogarnish(optional)

Gingersauce

125ml(4floz/½cup)vinegar110g(4oz/½cup)sugar2tablespoonssoysauce2tablespoonsfinelychoppedspringonion(scallion)1tablespooncornflour(cornstarch)4tablespoonschoppedpickledredgingerCleanandscalethefish,leavingtheheadon.Wipeinsidethefishcavitywithdamppapertowelthathasfirstbeendippedincoarsesalt.Trimanylongspinesorfinsneatly.Cutdiagonalslashesinthefleshwithasharpknife,about2.5cm(1in)apart.Dustwiththeseasonedflour,shakingoffanyexcess.

Tomakethegingersauce,soakthemushroomsinhotwaterfor20–30minutes,thendrainwell,cutoffanddiscardthestemsandthinlyslicethecaps.

Putthemushroom,vinegar,sugar,soysauceand190ml(6½floz/¾cup)waterintoasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboilfor5minutes.Addthespringonion.

Inabowl,combinethecornflourand1tablespooncoldwater,thenstirintothesauce.Continuetosimmeruntilthesauceisclearandthickened.Removefromtheheat,stirinthegingerandkeepwarm.

Meanwhile,heat theoil inawokor largeheavy-basedsaucepanovermediumheat.When the oil is hot, deep-fry the fish until golden brown on both sides.Drainonpapertowel,thencarefullytransferthefishtoaservingdish,spoonthesauce over the top and serve immediately, garnished with a sprig of freshcoriander,ifdesired.

PlaCianThai-stylefriedfish

Serves:4

750g(1lb11oz)skinless,boneless,firmwhitefishfillets

1teaspoontamarindpulp

60ml(2floz/¼cup)peanutoil6springonions(scallions),cutintoshortlengths4garliccloves,crushed

3teaspoonsfinelygratedfreshginger

2tablespoonslightsoysauce

1tablespoongratedpalmsugar(jaggery)

¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves1freshredchilli,deseededandslicedWipethefishwithdamppapertowel.Cutthefishintoservingportions(seepreparingwholefish).

Soak the tamarind pulp in 1 tablespoon hotwater for 10minutes. Squeeze todissolve the pulp in thewater, then strain, discarding the seeds and fibre. Setaside.

Heatthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addthefishandcookonbothsidesuntillightlybrownedandcookedthrough.Removethefishtoaservingplatterandkeepwarm.

Add the spring onion to the wok and cook over low heat until soft. Add the

garlic and ginger and stir-fry until soft and golden. Add the soy sauce, palmsugar,tamarindliquid,fishsauceandpepperandsimmerfor1minute.Pourthesauce over the fish, garnish with the coriander leaves and chilli and serveimmediatelywithwhiterice.

KaengPhetKungPrawnredcurry

Thiscurryisevenbetterpreparedinadvanceandre-heatedwhenrequired.Theprawn(shrimp)headshaveawonderfulflavourandmaybeservedaspartofthecurry.Someconsiderthemthetastiestpartoftheprawn.

Serves:4

500g(1lb2oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined,headsreserved500ml(17floz/2cups)coconutmilk

2tablespoonsRedcurrypaste1–2tablespoonsfishsauceor1teaspoonsalt

1freshredchilli,deseeded

Topreparetheprawnheads,rinseanddiscardonlythehardtopshell.Setaside.

Putthecoconutmilkintoalargesaucepanwiththecurrypaste,fishsauceandchilli.Bringslowlytosimmeringpoint,stirringconstantly.Addtheprawnsandprawnheadsandcookover lowheat for about15minutes, stirring frequently,untiltheprawnsarecookedandtheflavoursmellow.Servehotwithwhitericeandotheraccompaniments.

KaiTodTaucheoDeep-friedchickenwithyellowbeansauceServes:2

1largebonelessskinlesschickenbreast,cutintocubes1tablespooneggwhite,lightlybeaten2teaspoonswaterchestnutflourorcornflour(cornstarch)oilfordeep-frying,plus1tablespoonextra1tablespoonyellowbeansauce(taucheo)

1teaspoonsugar

2tablespoonsChinesericewineorsherry½teaspoonsesameoil

Inabowlmixtogetherthechicken,eggwhiteandwaterchestnutflouruntilwellcoated.

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Whentheoilishot,deep-frythechicken,inbatches,forafewseconds,oruntilitstartstochangecolour.Drainonpapertowel.

Heattheextraoilinacleanwok,addthebeansauceandfryforafewseconds.Addthesugar,wineandsesameoilandmixwell,thenaddthechicken,tosstocombineandheatthrough.Serveimmediatelywithwhiterice.

KaiKwamFriedeggsstuffedwithporkandseafoodServes:8

4largeeggs70g(2½oz/½cup)choppedrawprawns(shrimp)85g(3oz/½cup)cookedcrabmeat125g(4½oz/½cup)choppedcookedpork1tablespoonchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper½teaspoonsalt

1tablespoonfishsauce1–2tablespoonsthickcoconutmilkoilfordeep-frying

Batter

75g(2¾oz/½cup)plain(all-purpose)flour2teaspoonsoil¼teaspoonsalt

Put theeggs in a saucepanof coldwater andbring slowly to theboil, stirringfrequentlywithawoodenspoon,andbeingcarefulnottocracktheshells,thenreduce theheat toasimmer.Keepstirringuntil theeggshavebeensimmeringfor 3minutes. This helps centre the yolks, leaving an even layer ofwhite allaround,which in turnmakes theeggseasier to fill.Simmerfor12minutes,oruntilhard-boiled,thenruncoldwaterintothepantocooltheeggsquickly.

Peel the eggs and cut in halves lengthways. Scoop the yolks into a bowl andmashthoroughlywithafork.Addtheprawn,crabmeat,pork,corianderleaves,pepper,saltandfishsauce.Mixwell, thenaddasmuchofthecoconutmilkasthemixture will take and still hold its shape. Divide the yolkmixture into 8equalportionsandfilltheeggwhites,shapingthefillingintoadomesoittakestheshapeofawholeegg.

Tomakethebatter,mixtogether theflour,oil,saltand125ml(4floz/½cup)lukewarmwateruntilsmooth.

Heat theoil ina largeheavy-basedsaucepanovermediumheat.Dipeachegginto the batter, filling side down.When the oil is hot, deep-fry the eggs for 3minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Drainonpapertowelandservewarmorcold.

KaiYangGarlicchicken

Thismaysoundlikealotofgarlicandpepper,buttheresultissounusualanddeliciousthatIhesitatetomodifytherecipe.Thecoarselycrushedpeppercornsarenotashotasthesameamountoffinelygroundpepper.

Serves:4–5

1.5kg(3lb5oz)wholechickenor1kg(2lb3oz)chickenbreasts6garliccloves,crushedwith2teaspoonssalt

2tablespoonswholeblackpeppercorns,crushed

4wholeplantsfreshcoriander(cilantro),includingleavesandroots,finelychopped2tablespoonslemonorlimejuice,plusextratotaste

1tomato,sliced,toserve

chillipowder(optional)totasteJointthechickenintoportions,thencuteachchickenbreastinhalf.

Inabowl,mixtogetherthegarlic,thecrushedpeppercorns,corianderandlemonjuiceuntilwellcombined.Rubthismixtureoverthechickentocoatwellonallsides.Coverandsetasideforatleast1hourorlongerintherefrigerator.

Cookthechickenonagrilltrayunderapreheatedhotgrill(broiler),about15cm(6in)fromtheheat,turningevery5minutes,untilthechickenistenderandtheskin is crisp. Alternatively, cook the chicken on a hot barbecue over glowingcoals.

Servethechickenwithboiledriceandthetomatoslicesseasonedwithapinchof

chillipowder,ifusing,saltandlemonjuicetotaste.

KaiPhatKhingChickenwithgingershredsServes:2

½cupdriedwoodearfungus2tablespoonsfinelygratedfreshginger

1tablespoonoil

1smallonion,thinlysliced3garliccloves,finelychopped1largebonelessskinlesschickenbreast,diced1tablespoonlightsoysauce1tablespoonfishsauce

1tablespoonvinegar

1–2teaspoonssugar1springonion(scallion),finelychopped2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesSoakthewoodearfungusinhotwaterfor10minutes,thenrinseanddrainwell.Removeanythickorgrittyportionsandcutintobite-sizedpieces.Soakthegingerinlightlysaltedwaterfor10minutes,thensqueezeoutanyexcessmoisture–thismakesthegingerlesspungent.

Heat the oil in awok or large heavy-based frying pan overmedium heat andcook the onionuntil soft.Add the garlic and stir until it starts to turn golden,then add the chicken and ginger and stir-fry until the chicken changes colour.Addthesoyandfishsauces,vinegarandsugarandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat to low, cover, and simmer for 3minutes – do not overcook. Just beforeserving,stirinthespringonionandcoriander.

KaengKhieuWanKaiGreencurryofchicken

The green colour is imparted by the finely chopped chillies and fresh herbsaddedduring the last fewminutes of cooking.These two ingredients not onlygive colour, but also a distinctive flavour that distinguishes Thai dishes fromotherspicedpreparationswithacoconutmilkgravy,allcalledkaengforwantofamoredefinitiveword.

Serves:6

1.5kg(3lb5oz)wholechicken250ml(8½floz/1cup)coconutcream3tablespoonsGreencurrypaste750ml(25½floz/3cups)coconutmilk2makrut(kaffirlime)leaves1teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsfishsauce2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshgreenchillies4tablespoonstornfreshbasilorchoppedcoriander(cilantro)leaves.

Jointthechickenintoportions.

Heatthecoconutcreaminalargeheavy-basedsaucepan,stirringconstantlyuntilit comes to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking, stirringoccasionally,untilthecreamthickensandoilbubblesaroundit–youshouldbeleftwith60ml (2 fl oz/¼cup).Add thecurrypaste andcook in the richoilycreamforabout5minutes,stirringconstantly.Thecurrypastewillsmellcookedandtheoilwillseparatewhenitisready.

Add the chicken and cook over medium–low heat for 15 minutes, stirringfrequently and turning regularly until the chicken changes colour. Add thecoconutmilk,makrutleaves,saltandfishsauceandstirwhilethecoconutmilkcomestotheboil.Reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor35–45minutes,oruntilthe chicken iswell cooked and tender and the gravy rich and oily. Stir in thechilliandherbs,simmerforafurther5minutes,thenservewithwhiterice.

Variation

Tomakeagreencurryofduck(kaengkhieuwanpet),useawholeduckinsteadofthechickenandproceedasforgreencurryofchicken.

KaengPhedPedYangSubparotThairedcurryofduckwithpineappleandlycheesTherichnessofduckisbalancedbythetangoffreshpineappleandthesweetnessoflychees.Itdoesn’tmatterifthepineappleisnotverysweet,thelycheeswillcompensate.Ifyouarepressedfortime,buytheduckalreadyroastedfromaChinesebarbecueshop.

Serves:6

1wholeduck,uncookedorroasted60ml(2floz/¼cup)peanutoil3tablespoonsRedcurrypaste375ml(12½floz/1½cups)thincoconutmilk

2makrut(kaffirlime)leaves,plusextra,thinlysliced,toserve1teaspoongratedpalmsugar(jaggery)250g(9oz)freshpineapple,peeled,coredandcutintocubes150g(5½oz)freshortinnedlychees,stonesremoved(optional)freshThaibasiltoserve

Jointtheduckintoportions(seePreparingwholechickens).

Heatthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpan.Addtheduck,inbatches,andcooktheduckuntilbrownonallsides.Removetoaplateusingaslottedspoonwhencooked.

Add thecurrypaste to thewokandstir-fryuntil it starts tobubble.Stir in thethincoconutmilk, fishsauceandmakrut leaves.Mixwellandwhenthesaucebubblesagain, return theduck to thewok.Reduce theheat to lowandsimmer

for40minutes,oruntiltheduckistender,stirringandturningfromtimetotimetomakesureitcooksevenly.

Ifusinganalreadycookedduckaddtheduckpiecesandturnandcookuntiljustheated through. Add the palm sugar, pineapple and lychees and stir to coat.Garnishwith the basil and the extramakrut leaf. Servewith steamed jasminerice.

KaengMasamanMuslimcurry

Chickenorbeefmaybeusedinthisveryspicycurry.

Serves6–8

1kg(2lb3oz)beefor1.75kg(3lb14oz)wholechicken

2teaspoonstamarindpulp

1litre(34floz/4cups)coconutmilk140g(5oz/1cup)roasted,unsaltedpeanuts2tablespoonsfishsauce,plusextra

15cardamompods

5cm(2in)cinnamonstick1quantityMasamancurrypaste

2tablespoonslimeorlemonjuice

1–2tablespoonsgratedpalmsugar(jaggery)CutthebeefintolargecubesorJointthechickenintoportions.

Soak the tamarind pulp in 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) hot water for 10 minutes.Squeeze todissolve thepulp in thewater, thenstrain,discarding theseedsandfibre.Setaside.

Putthebeefintoalargeheavy-basedsaucepanwiththecoconutmilk,peanuts,fish sauce, cardamom pods and cinnamon stick. Bring to the boil, stirringfrequently, thenreducetheheat to lowandsimmerfor35–40minutes,oruntilthemeatistender.(Ifyouareusingchickenuse1.5litres/51floz/6cupscoconutmilk and simmer for 2 hours.)Do not cover the pan or the coconutmilkwill

curdle.Whenthemeathascooked,removeittoaplateusingaslottedspoon.

Continue tosimmer thecoconutmilk in thepan,until ithas reducedbyaboutone-third (if it has already reduced considerably then do not cook for anylonger). Stir in the curry paste, tamarind liquid, lime juice and palm sugar.Returnthebeeftothepanandcontinuesimmeringuntilthesaucehasthickenedslightly.Tasteandaddmorefishsauceifnecessary.Servewithwhiterice.

KaengPhedNuerRedcurryofbeef

Serves:6

250ml(8½floz/1cup)coconutcream3tablespoonsRedcurrypaste1kg(2lb3oz)stewingsteak,cutintocubes250ml(8½floz/1cup)thickcoconutmilk

500ml(17floz/2cups)thincoconutmilk2makrut(kaffirlime)leaves1teaspoonsalt

2freshredchillies,deseededandslicedHeatthecoconutcreaminalargeheavy-basedsaucepan,stirringconstantlyuntilitcomestotheboil.Reducetheheattolowandcontinuecooking,stirringoccasionally,untilthecreamthickensandoilbubblesaroundit.Addthecurrypasteandcontinuesimmeringfor5minutes,stirringconstantly,untiltheoilstartstoseparate.Addthesteakandstirwell,thenaddthethickcoconutmilkandthincoconutmilk,makrutleaves,salt,fishsauceandchilliandreturntotheboil,stirringoften.Simmeruntilthebeefistender.Ifthebeefhasnotbecometenderandthesauceseemstobecookingaway,addalittlemorecoconutmilkorhotwater–thesauceshouldberichandred,andthereshouldbequitealotofit.Servewithwhitericeandaccompaniments.

MuWanSweetpork

Sweetporkismainlyusedasaningredientinotherdishes,butisalsodeliciouseatenwithahotchillisaucewithrice.

500g(1lb2oz)porkloin90g(3oz/½cup)gratedpalmsugar(jaggery)125ml(4floz/½cup)fishsauceRemoveandreservetheporkrindandcutthemeatintothinslices.Puttheporkandrindintoasaucepanwiththepalmsugar,fishsauceand750ml(25½floz/3cups)waterandbringtotheboil.Skimanyscumfromthesurface,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmertheporkfor30–40minutes.Uncoverandcontinuesimmeringuntiltheporkistenderandthefatistranslucent,andtherindisverysoft.Allowtocoolinthestockanduseasdirected.

Si-KlokPorkandcrabsausage

Tomakethisrecipeyou’vegottohaveoneoftwothings–lotsofpatienceoranefficientsausage-makingmachine.Idon’thaveeither,butwaswellintoitbeforeIrealisedIneededthem.Thesausageisdeliciousandwillspoilyouforordinarysausagesforalongtimetocome,butitdoestaketimeandperseverancetofillthesausageskin.(WhenpatienceranoutIusedtheremainingmixturetomaketinyballs,friedtheminasmallamountofoiluntilwellcookedandtheytastedgreat.)Serves:4–6

185g(6½oz)minced(ground)pork125g(4½oz)crabmeat2tablespoonsfinelychoppedonion2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves2tablespoonsroastedpeanuts,coarselyground1tablespoonfishsauce

2teaspoonsRedcurrypaste½teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsthickcoconutmilksausageskin(seeNote)Putthepork,crabmeat,onion,coriander,peanutsandfishsauceintoabowlanduseyourhandstothoroughlycombine.

Inaseparatebowl,combinethecurrypaste,saltandcoconutmilk,thenaddtotheporkmixtureandcontinuekneadinguntilverywellcombined.

Packthemixtureintothesausageskinandfastenbothendsfirmlywithaknot.Prickthesausageinseveralplaceswithafinebambooskewer.Curlthesausageintoalargeflatcoil.

Grill thesausageunderapreheatedgrill (broiler)as farawayfromtheheataspossiblefor25minutes,turningonceduringcooking,sothatthesausagecooksevenly. The authenticmethod of cooking is to grill the sausage over glowingcoals andwhen cooking is nearly done to sprinkle some of the coconut fromwhichthemilkwassqueezed,overthecoals.Thiswillmakesmokewhichwillgivemoreflavourtothesausage.Servewarmorcold.

Sausageskincanbeboughtfromyourbutcher.Runcoldwaterthroughtheskinbeforefillingwiththemixture.

YamNangMuPorkskinsalad

Serves:6

125g(4½oz/½cup)finelyslicedboiledporkrind125g(4½oz/½cup)finelychoppedboiledleanpork

1largehandfulfreshmintleaves

1stemlemongrass,whitepartonly,finelychopped,or½teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest3tablespoonsdriedprawn(shrimp)powder2–3tablespoonscoconutcream

1tablespoonshrimpsauce1tablespoonlimejuice

1–2teaspoonsgratedpalmsugar(jaggery)1tablespoonchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves1tablespoonchoppedspringonion(scallion)Removethefatfromtheporkrindanduseonlythejelly-likeskin.

Mixtogethertheporkandporkrind,mint,lemongrass,prawnpowder,coconutcream,shrimpsauce, limejuice,fishsauceandpalmsugarinabowl.Sprinkleoverthecorianderandspringonionandserveimmediately.

YamMaMuangGreenmangoorapplesalad

In Thailand this would be made with green (unripe) mangoes. If you knowsomeonewithatree,picksomewhiletheskinisgreenandthefruittoofirmtoyieldtopressure.Ifhardgreenmangoesarenotreadilyavailable,substitutetartgreenapples.

Serves:6

2green(unripe)mangoesor3greencookingapples1teaspoonsalt

1tablespoonpeanutoil

4garliccloves,thinlysliced6springonions(scallions),thinlysliced250g(9oz)porkfillet,finelychopped1tablespoondriedprawn(shrimp)powder

2tablespoonsroastedpeanuts,crushed1teaspoongratedpalmsugar(jaggery)finelychoppedfreshredchillies(optional)toserveIfusingmangoes,peeloffanddiscardtheskinandremovethestones.Coarselygratethecheeksintolongshreds.Ifusingapples,peelandslicethemthinly,putthemintoalargebowlandtosstocoatwiththesalt.

Heatthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverlowheat.Addthegarlicandcookuntilgolden,thenremovetoaplate.Cookthespringonionuntilsoft,thenremovetoaplate.

Quicklystir-fry thepork in thewokuntilcooked, thenadd theprawnpowder,fishsauce,peanutsandpalmsugarandtosstocombine.Removefromtheheatandpourintoalargeservingbowltocoolslightly.

Just before serving, mix in the mangoes or apple, season with freshly grated

blackpeppertotaste,andsprinkleoverthechilli,ifdesired.

YumHoaPleeBananaflowersalad

As banana blossom is more frequently available these days, it is well worthtryingitinthissalad.Correctpreparationisimportantasmerelyshreddingitandthrowingitinadishwillresultinamouth-puckeringastringencythatwilldeterany furtherexperimentswith thisattractiveedibleblossom.When it ishard tofind,youwillstillhaveadelicioussaladbysubstitutingitwithwitlof(Belgianendive/chicory)orChinesecabbage(wombok).

Serves:6

Bananaflowersalad

400g(14oz)bananaflowerorwitlof(Belgianendive/chicory)juiceof1lemon1teaspoonsalt30g(1oz/½cup)shreddedcoconut1yambean(jicama)(glossary),peeledandcutintothinmatchsticks1largehandfulfreshmintleaves1largehandfulfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves2makrut(kaffirlime)leaves,thinlysliced1smallredonion,quarteredandthinlysliced½cupfriedshallots

Poachedchicken

1coriander(cilantro)stemandroot1garlicclove,bruised1tablespoonfishsauce1makrut(kaffirlime)leaf,torn500g(1lb2oz)chickentenderloinsor12rawlargeprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined

Dressing

60g(2oz/⅓cup)gratedpalmsugar(jaggery)2tablespoonsboilingwater2tablespoonstamarindpulp

1–2tablespoonschillijam2tablespoonscoconutcream

Begina fewhoursbeforeservingbyremoving the leatheryouter leavesof thebananaflower,keeping3or4attractiveonestodecoratetheservingplate.

Pull away the next 6 leaves and discard the small tube-shaped blossoms, butreservethelargepetals.Cuttheflowerinhalflengthwaysthenintofineshreds.Combine1litre(34floz/4cups)waterwiththelemonjuiceandsaltandaddtheshreddedleaves,tossingtocoat.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast4hours.

Tomakethedressing,combinethepalmsugarandboilingwaterinapitcherandstir todissolvethesugar.Addthe tamarindpulp,chilli jamandcoconutcreamandstirwelltocombine.Setasideuntilneeded.

Topoachthechicken,put750ml(25½floz/3cups)waterintoalargesaucepan.Add the coriander stems, garlic, fish sauce andmakrut leaf.Bring to the boil,thenaddthechickenandbringbacktoasimmer.Cover,turnofftheheatandletsit for 5 minutes, or until the chicken is just cooked through. Remove thechickenfromthepoachingliquidusingaslottedspoonandsetaside.

Meanwhile, toast the coconut in a dry frying pan over low heat, watchingcarefullyasitburnswithoutwarning.Whenarichgoldencolour,tipontoaflatplatetocool.

Drain thebanana flower shreds andplace in a largebowl.Add theyambean,mint,coriander,makrutleavesandonion.Addthefriedshallotsandcoconutandtosstocombine.

Pourthedressingoverthesaladandtosswelltocoat.Servethesaladonaplatedecoratedwiththereservedouterflowerpetals,thentopwiththeslicedpoachedchicken.

Ifusingprawns(shrimp),followthesamemethodforcookingasforthechicken.Prawnsarecookedwhentheyturnopaqueandthetailscurl.

YamSom-OrPomelosalad

Thisrelativeofthegrapefruit,alsoknownasChinesegrapefruit,isavailableinbothwhiteandpinkvarieties.Usingbothtypesmakesforaveryprettysalad.Ifpomeloisnotavailable,regulargrapefruitmaybesubstituted.

Serves:6

1pomelo(Chinesegrapefruit)15g(½oz/¼cup)driedshrimp

1garlicclove

1–2redchillies,deseededandthinlysliced1tablespoongratedpalmsugar(jaggery)1tablespoonfishsauce

2tablespoonslimejuice

1stemlemongrass,whitepartonly,verythinlyslicedUseasharpknifetopeelofftheskinandremoveallthewhitepithfromthepomelo.Breakapartthesegmentsbycuttingbetweenthemembranes.Discardanyseeds.

Lightlytoastthedriedshrimpinadryfryingpanoverlowheat.Allowtocoolslightly,thentransfertoafoodprocessorandprocessuntilshredded.

Crushthegarlicandhalfofthechilliusingamortarandpestle,thenplaceinabowlwith thepalmsugar, fishsauceand lime juice.Stir todissolve thesugar,thenmixintheshreddedshrimpandthelemongrassandpouritontothebowlofpomelo segments.Arrangeona servingplateanddecoratewith the remainingchillislices.

NamPrikThaishrimpsauce

NamprikinitsvariousversionsiswhatThaisusetoseasonalmosteverythingtheyeat.Usewhitericetoprovideaneutralbackgroundtothepungencyofthesauce.

Makes:1cup

2tablespoonsdriedshrimp1teaspoondriedshrimppaste

4garliccloves

2teaspoonsSambalulekor2freshredchillies,chopped2teaspoonsgratedpalmsugar(jaggery)

2tablespoonslimejuice

1½tablespoonssoysauceSoakthedriedshrimpinhotwaterfor20minutes.Drainwell.

Wrapthedriedshrimppasteinapieceoffoilandroastunderapreheatedgrill(broiler) for 5minutes, turning halfway through.Unwrap and place in a foodprocessorwiththedriedshrimp,garlic,sambalulek,palmsugar,limejuice,soysauce and 60ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup)water and process until smooth. Store in anairtightjarintherefrigeratorforupto2weeks.

KapiPlaShrimppastesambal

Thisisaboutaspungentasanaccompanimentcanget.IfyouwanttoknowtheauthenticflavourofThailand,youoweittoyourselftotryit.

Makes:1cup

3tablespoonsdriedshrimppaste2tablespoonsfinelychoppedonion

1tablespoonfinelychoppedgarlic

2tablespoonsdriedprawn(shrimp)powder60ml(2floz/¼cup)limeorlemonjuice1tablespoongratedpalmsugar(jaggery)fishsaucetotaste

1teaspoonfinelyshreddedlimeorlemonzestfinelychoppedfreshredchilliestogarnishWrapthedriedshrimppasteinapieceoffoilandroastunderapreheatedgrill(broiler)for5minutes,turninghalfwaythrough.Allowtocool.

Pound the onion and garlic together using amortar and pestle, then graduallyaddthedriedshrimppaste,driedprawnpowderandlimejuiceandworkintoapaste.Addthepalmsugarandfishsauce,mixingwelltocombine.Pressintoasmallbowlorformintoamoundandgarnishwiththeshredsoflimezestandthechilli.

NamPrikPauChillijam

Thisisaversatilecondimenttohaveonhandasitdoublesasastir-fryseasoningforgreensandcanbeusedindressingsforThaisalads.

Makes:3cups

50g(1¾oz)largedriedredchillies375ml(12½floz/1½cups)boilingwater125g(4½oz/½cup)tamarindpulp250ml(8½floz/1cup)vegetableoil250g(9oz)garlic,finelychopped60g(2oz)ginger,peeledandfinelychopped400g(14oz)tinchoppedtomatoes125ml(4floz/½cup)fishsauce240g(8½oz/1⅓cups)gratedpalmsugar(jaggery)Soakthechilliesin190ml(6½oz/¾cup)boilingwaterfor20minutes,oruntilsoftened.Drainwellandprocessinafoodprocessoruntilfinelychopped.

Soakthetamarindpulpintheremainingboilingwaterfor10minutes.Squeezetodissolvethepulpinthewater,thenstrain,discardingtheseedsandfibre.Setaside.

Place theoil,garlicandginger intoa largeheavy-basedsaucepanandsimmer,stirring continuously, for about 10 minutes, or until light golden. Add thetomatoes,fishsauce,palmsugarandtamarindliquid.Cookfor20minutesovermediumheat.Chillijamcanbestoredinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto6weeks.

TuptimGrobCrisprubies

Tuptimmeans rubies and grobmeans crisp or crunchy. These cubes ofwaterchestnuts or yam beans make a delightful dessert. While water chestnuts aremostlyavailable in tins,yambeans (jicama)areseasonallyavailable freshandprovidingtheyareyoungandsweetareaneasyalternative.Nashipearsarealsocommonlyfoundandgiveasimilarcrunchyresult.

Serves:6–8

110g(4oz/½cup)sugar535g(1lb3oz)tinwholewaterchestnuts,drained,or500g(1lb2oz)yambeans(jicama)(glossary)ornashipears,peeledanddiced

redliquidfoodcolouringgreenliquidfoodcolouring

1tablespoonrosewater

150g(5½oz/1cup)tapiocaflourorpotatostarch125ml(4floz/½cup)coconutmilkshavedicetoserve(optional)

Tomakethesugarsyrup,putthesugarand190ml(6½floz/¾cup)waterintoalargesaucepanandbringtotheboil,stirringtodissolvethesugar.Removefromtheheatandrefrigerateuntilcool.Setaside.

Cutthewaterchestnutsintoquarters.Ifusingyambeansornashipear,peelfirst,thencutinto5mm(¼in)dice.

Pour about 125ml (4 fl oz/½cup)water into2 separate bowls andput a fewdropsofredfoodcolouringinoneandgreenintheother.Addtherosewatertothepinkwaterforflavour.

Placehalfofthedicedwaterchestnutsintothepinkwaterandhalfintothegreenwaterandleavetosoakupthecolourfor1hour.Drainwell.

Placethetapiocaflourin2separatebowlsandkeepingthecoloursseparate,tossthewaterchestnutsineachbowltocoatevenly,shakingoffanyexcess.

Bring2 saucepansofwater to theboil and add thepink cubes to one and thegreentotheother,scoopingthemintoabowloficedwaterwhentheyrisetothesurfaceandtheflourcoatingistranslucent.Drainwhencool.

Putthegreencubesintoaservingbowl,thenthesyrup.Placetheredcubesontop.Pourthecoconutmilkoverthetopwithsomeshavedice,ifdesired.Servewithin4hoursofmaking.

KhaoNieoKaeoSweetcoconutriceGlutinous,orsticky,riceisapopularThaidessert.Bothwhiteandblackstickyriceareused.Serves:6–8

500g(1lb2oz/2½cups)glutinousrice625ml(21floz/2½cups)coconutmilk120g(4½oz/⅓cup)gratedpalmsugar(jaggery)Soakthericeovernightinwater.Putthericeand1.25litres(42floz/5cups)waterinasaucepanandbringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmeruntilthegrainsaretenderandalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.

Add the coconut milk and palm sugar and simmer over low heat, stirringoccasionally,untilallthemilkhasbeenabsorbed.Turnontoaplateandflattenwiththebackofaspoon.Allowtocoolandset,thencutintodiamondshapes.ServeasadessertorsnackwithslicedripebananasorCoconutandpalmsugarsweet(nakachik)(below).

NaKachikCoconutandpalmsugarsweetAfillingortoppingforsweetcoconutrice,above,orsimplyservewithrice.

Serves:6–8

90g(3oz/½cup)gratedpalmsugar(jaggery)240g(8½oz/4cups)freshlygratedcoconut1pinchofsaltPutthepalmsugarand60ml(2floz/¼cup)waterintoasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboil,stirringtodissolvethesugar.Addthecoconutandsaltandstiruntilthemixturethickens.Ifthisistobeusedasafilling,itshouldbestiffenoughtoholditsshapeinaspoon.

Instead of fresh coconut you can use 90 g (3 oz/1 cup) desiccated (shredded)coconutthathasfirstbeensoakedin60ml(2floz/¼cup)hotmilk.

KhanomTalaiSteamedcoconutmilkpudding

VeryreminiscentofaSriLankansweetcalledseenakku, thissteamedpuddingmadefromcoconutmilkandricefloursweetenedwithpalmsugar(jaggery)isasimpledessert.Yet,whenmadeinThailand,thecoconutmilkisextractedusingscentedwater…waterinfusedwithjasmineorothersweet-smellingblossoms,aromanticandfancifulnotionsotypicaloftheimaginativeandinspirednatureofThaicuisine.

Makes:10smallserves

125ml(4floz/½cup)coconutcream2½tablespoonsriceflour60g(2oz/⅓cup)finelychoppedpalmsugar(jaggery)190ml(6½floz/¾cup)thickcoconutmilk

1pinchofsalt

Mix together the coconut creamwith1 tablespoonof the rice flour in abowl,stirringuntilsmooth.Setaside.

Inanotherbowl,dissolvethepalmsugarinthecoconutmilkandstirinthesalt.

Put the remaining rice flour in a third bowl and gradually add the sweetenedcoconut milk mixture, stirring until smooth. Strain through a fine sieve, thenpour into ten60ml (2 fl oz/¼cup) capacitymouldsor cups so they are two-thirdsfull.

Setthecupscarefullyinasteamerbasketoversimmeringwaterandsteamfor15minutes,oruntil set.Pourenoughof thereservedcoconutcreamtoalmost filleachmould, cover, and steam for a further 20–25minutes.Allow to cool andserveatroomtemperature.

SankhayaSteamedcustardinpumpkinshell

This custardmay also be steamed in young coconuts, husks removed and theshell cut straight across the top. This quantity fills a medium-sized butternutpumpkin(squash).Foralargepumpkin,doublethequantities.

Serves:4–6

190ml(6½floz/¾cup)thickcoconutmilk90g(3oz/½cup)gratedpalmsugar(jaggery)

3eggs,lightlybeaten

afewdropsofrosewater

1butternutorsmalljap(kent)pumpkin(squash)sweetenedcoconutmilktoserve(optional)

If possible, extract the coconutmilk using freshly grated coconut and scentedwater (coconutmilk), which is how this custard would be made in Thailand.Otherwiseusethenormalmethodofextractingmilkfromdesiccated(shredded)coconut,usingmilkinsteadofwatersinceitshouldbeveryrich.

Combinethepalmsugarandegginabowl,addthecoconutmilkandstiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Addjustenoughoftherosewatertotaste.

Washthepumpkinwelland,ifitisalargeroundone,cutaholeinthetopandremovealltheseedsandspongytissue,scrapingwellwithaspoontoleavethepumpkinsmooth.Ifitisalongstraightpumpkin,cutoffthetopandthencutaroundholeintothecentretoremovetheseedsandspongytissue,leavingashellofpumpkinabout2.5cm(1in)thick.Cutathinsliceoffthebottomsoithasaflatbasetositoninthesteamer.

Strain the custard and pour into the pumpkin to come just to the top. Put the

pumpkin in a dish so that it fits snugly and put the dish and pumpkin in asteamer.Steamfor1hour,oruntilaknife inserted in thecentreof thecustardcomesoutclean.

Cool,thenchillandservethepumpkin,cutintoslicessothatthereisaportionofcustardsurroundedbypumpkin.Runaknifearoundtheedgeofeachsliceandremovetheskin.Servewithsweetenedcoconutmilkforpouringover,ifdesired.

KhanomBualoiGoldenbeancakes

Thismungbeanmixturecanbemodelledintotinyfruitshapesandpaintedwithfoodcolouring.Eitherrollincaster(superfine)sugarordipinanagar-agarglazefortraditionallookinglugchup.

Serves:8–10

250g(9oz)mungbeans220g(8oz/1cup)sugar,plus75g(2¾oz/⅓cup)extracaster(superfine)sugartocoat

Soakthemungbeansincoldwaterfor24hours,thenchangethewaterseveraltimesandwashthebeanssothatallthegreenskinsfloataway.Drainwell.

Putthemungbeansintoasaucepanwithenoughwatertojustcomelevelwiththebeansandbring to theboil.Cookuntil thebeansarevery soft.Drainwelland,whilethebeansarestillhot,mashtoasmoothpaste.

Putthesugarand125ml(4floz/½cup)waterinaheavy-basedsaucepanovermediumheatandstiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Addthebeanpasteandcook,stirring occasionally at the start andmore frequently as the mixture thickens.Whenthebeanmixtureisthickandstartstocomeawayfromthesideofthepan,itisready.Allowtocooluntilitcanbehandled,andmakesmallballsfromthepaste.

Puttheextrasugarand1tablespoonwaterintoalargesaucepanandbringtotheboil,stirringtodissolvethesugarandcookovergentleheatuntilthesyrupspinsathread.

Dip each ball in the sugar syrup, then toss in the caster sugar to coat and setasidetodry.Placeinsmallpapercases,toserve.

Forlugchup,add125ml(4floz/½cup)thickcoconutmilktothemashedmungbeanmixture and cook overmediumheat, stirring until it clings together andcomes away from the side of the pan.When cool enough to handle, form intoballsabout the sizeofamacadamianut, thenmould intodesired fruit shapes.Insertoneendofatoothpickintothefruitandtheotherintopolystyrenefoam.Paintwithfoodcolouringandallowtocool.Put3teaspoonsagar-agarpowderand500ml (17 floz/2cups)water ina saucepanandstirover lowheatuntildissolved.Coolslightlyanddipthefruits,thenallowtodry.Asecondcoat,afterthefirsthasdried,givesasupershinyresult.

I-TimKatiCoconuticecream

Thetasteof this icecreamwhisksmebackin timetoamemorableeveningattheOrientalHotelinBangkok.Servedfreshfromthechurnattheendofalavishmeal,itsicycoldnesswasmuchappreciatedbyguestsatthefestivecelebrationsoftheLoyKrathongfestival.

Serves:6–8

2teaspoonspowderedgelatine

55g(2oz/¼cup)sugar¼teaspoonsalt500ml(17floz/2cups)coconutmilk200ml(7floz)tinnedcondensedmilk15g(½oz/¼cup)shreddedcoconut,lightlytoasted(optional)Sprinklethegelatineover60ml(2floz/¼cup)waterinaheatproofbowlandleavefor15minutestosoften.

Put125ml(4floz/½cup)water intoa largesaucepanwith thesugarandsaltand bring to the boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Stir the gelatinemixtureintothehotsyrupuntilcompletelydissolved.

Put the coconut milk into a large bowl and add the gelatine syrup and thecondensedmilk,whiskinglightlyuntilwellcombined.Transfertoanice-creammachineandchurnaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.Transferintoafreezercontainerandfreezeuntilrequired.

Ifnochurn is available,partly freeze ina freezercontaineruntil it is a slushyconsistencythenbreakuptheicecrystalsbyblendingwithahandmixerorstickblenderbeforefreezingitagain.

Removefromthefreezerandrefrigeratefor5minutestosoftenbeforeserving.Garnishwiththetoastedshreddedcoconut,ifdesired.

NarayanaBantomSindhuVishnuintheseaofmilkAsweetice-colddrinkthatismostrefreshinginThailand’shotclimate.Usescentedwater,astheThaisdo,bysoakingjasmineflowersorrosesinwaterovernight(orsubstituterosewater)forflavouringthecookedmixtureandforscentingthewaterusedtoextractthecoconutmilk.Thisispopularlyknownassarim.

Serves:6–8

2tablespoonsmungbeanflour(glossary)2–3teaspoonsrosewater,ortotastegreenfoodcolouring

55g(2oz/¼cup)sugar1litre(34floz/4cups)coconutmilk

crushedice

Putthebeanflourand500ml(17floz/2cups)waterinasaucepanandbringtothe boil, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens and becomes clear.Remove from the heat, then stir in the rosewater to give a faint but definiteflavour.

Tint themixtureadelicateshadeofgreen, thenpushthroughacolander intoabowlofcoldwater.Leaveuntilfirm,drainandrefrigerateuntilchilled.

Put thesugar inabowlwith thecoconutmilkandstirwell todissolve.Addalittlerosewaterandrefrigerateuntilchilled.

Whenyouarereadytoserve,putalargespoonfulofthebeanflourmixtureintoa tall glass, fill with the flavoured coconut milk and crushed ice and serveimmediately.

KhaoNiewDumBlackstickyrice

Serves:4–6

200g(7oz/1cup)blackglutinousrice¼teaspoonsalt,plus½teaspoonextra60g(2oz/⅓cup)gratedpalmsugar(jaggery),plusextratoserve2tablespoonslightlytoastedsesameseeds60g(2oz/1cup)gratedfreshcoconut,plusextratoservecoconutcreamtoserve(optional)Soakthericeinwaterovernight,thendrainwell,reserving190ml(6½floz/¾cup)ofthesoakingwater.

Put the rice and salt into a heatproof bowl. Pour enough water into a largesaucepantocome2cm(¾in)upthesidesandplaceatrivetinthepan.Putthebowl of rice on the trivet then bring to the boil and cook for 45–60minutes,refreshingthewaterfromtimetotimesoitdoesn’tboildry.

Remove from the heat andwhile the rice is still warm, stir through the palmsugartodissolve.

Meanwhile,lightlybruisethesesameseedswiththeextrasaltusingamortarandpestle.

Toserve,eitherdividethericebetweentheholesofalightlyoiledmuffintintomakeattractiveindividualserves,orsimplyscoopoutofthecookingvesselwithawetspoontopreventthegrainsstickingtoitandserveinsmallbowls.Garnishwith grated coconut, sesame seeds and extra grated palm sugar, if desired.Drizzlewithcoconutcream,ifdesired.

Insteadofcookingthericethiswayyoucancookitinaricecooker–use750ml(25½floz/3cups)waterfor1cupofsoakedrice.

Vietnam

While the food of Vietnam has been undeniably influenced by thecooking of China, it could not be mistaken for Chinese food, forauthentic Vietnamese food has a very distinctive character. Fishsauce,nuocmam,replacessoysaucewheresaltinessisrequired,andisaddedbothduringcookingandasanaccompaniment.Nuocmamsauce (or nuoc cham), which is served as an accompaniment withpractically everything, is based on nuoc mam with the addition offreshchillies,garlic,sugar,limeorlemonandvinegar.Theflavourissharperandmorepungentthananyofthesaucesyou’dcomeacrossinChinesecuisine.

Riceandnoodles are the staple starches in theVietnamesediet, but theyhavealsocultivatedatasteforFrenchbreadandI’msuretheVietnamesebakeriesinthiscountry turnout the lightest,crunchiestbaguettesoutsideofFrance.Foraquicksnack,they’returnedintotastytreatswithbeef,cookedVietnamese-style,pâtéorpressedporksausage,chilli,freshcoriander(cilantro)and,ofcourse,fishsauce.Adeliciousmealontherun.

ServingandeatingaVietnamesemealTogetherwithrice,soupisabasiciteminaVietnamesemeal.Sometimesthemealisonlyasoup–butwiththeadditionofanumberofsubstantialingredients.LiketheBurmesewiththeirnationalsoupdish,mohhin

gha,theVietnamesewillstopatanytimeofdayornighttopartakeofabowlofpho(pronounced‘far-uh’witharisinginflectionandaglottalstopattheend),adelicatebeefsoupthatmostWesternerswouldenjoy(seeBeefsoupwithsalad).Thelongsimmeringgivesastrong,nourishingstockandtheinclusionofstaranisegivesitafragrantaroma.Servephotogetherwithcookedricenoodles,awedgeoflemon,rawvegetablesandzestyfreshherbs,alongwithyourchoiceofraworslightlycookedthinlyslicedbeef,althoughIhavealsotastedversionswithchicken,whicharejustastasty.Riceiscookedbytheabsorptionmethod,withoutsalt.Itismeanttobefirmandseparate, the grains having just enough cling so they can be picked up easilywithchopsticks.Pot-roastedrice,asimplevariation,hasaflavourallitsownandisconsideredatreat.Itiseasytoprepareandthismethodofcookingriceresultsin a drier and fluffier consistency. A fluffy consistency is desirable inVietnamesecooking.

Chicken,fish,poultryandbeefareallusedinVietnam,butnotmutton(orlamb).Beef too is something of a luxury, for cattle areworking animals. Pork is themost common meat. Chickens and ducks are reared and considered goodinvestmentsbecausetheyproduceeggsandprovidemeat.Fishandshellfisharecommonandcheap,fortheyarefoundingreatabundance,eveninthefloodedricepaddies.Theyareusedinmanyways,butthemostimportantuseisinthemakingofnuocmamorfishsauce,forwhichatinyfishcalled‘ricefish’isused.Thesefisharesosmallthattheyarelikenedtograinsofrice.

SaladsarepopularinVietnam.Simplecombinationssuchascookedchickenandshreddedcabbagearegivenanexotictouchbytheadditionofchoppedmintandfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves.

Vietnamesefoodincludesalotoffresh,uncookedvegetablesandfruit,andfood

ismore often cooked inwater than oil – two reasonswhy aVietnamesemealdoesnotbringonafeelingofsurfeit.Bowlsandchopsticksareusedtosetthetableandallthefoodisservedatonetime.

Dessertsarenotservedat theendofaVietnamesemeal,butsweetsandcakesareservedasbetween-mealsnacks,andofferedtoguests.

UtensilsTocookVietnamese-style, awok is fundamental.Youcould invest in aheavystone mortar and pestle, but for most grinding a food processor preparesingredientswithmuchlesstimeandeffort.TheonerecipeIfeelneedsamortarandpestleisnuoccham.Theliquidbecomestoofrothywhenablenderisused,sodependingonhowenthusiasticyouareandhowauthenticyouwantthefoodtobe,chooseyourmethodofpulverisingchilliesandgarlicaccordingly.Woodenchopsticksareusedforstirringandmixing.Alarge,heavyfryingpan,asteamerandalargepotwillequipyouforanyoftheserecipes.

YourVietnameseshelfThis is a list of spices, sauces, sambals and other flavouringswhich are oftenused inVietnamesecookingandgood tohaveonhand tomake the recipes inthischapter.

bambooshoots,tinnedblackpepper,wholeandfreshlygroundcellophane(beanthread)noodlescinnamonsticks

coconutmilkandcreamcornflour(cornstarch)daunsalamleaves(glossary)driedshrimppastefishcakes,Chinese-stylefishsaucelilybuds(goldenneedles),driedlotusroot,frozen

oystersauce

peanutoilpeanuts,rawunsaltedricepaperwrappersrice,medium-grainrice,toastedground(glossary)ricewineordrysherrysesameoilsesamesauceorpastesesameseedsshiitakemushrooms,driedspringrollwrappers

staraniseturmeric,ground

TômVóViênChiênFriedprawncakesServes:4–6asamealwithriceandsoup1springonion(scallion),finelychopped1pinchoffreshlygroundblackpepperoilfordeep-fryingNuocchamtoserve

Prawnpaste

500g(1lb2oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined1eggwhite60g(2oz/¼cup)finelychoppedporkfat1tablespoonoil1tablespoonfishsauce½teaspoonsalt1teaspoonsugar½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperTomaketheprawnpaste,puttheprawnsthroughamincer(grinder)usingafineblade(youwillneedtodothistwice),orchopveryfinelyinafoodprocessor.Addalltheremainingingredientsandstirwelltocombine.

Mixtheprawnpastewiththespringonionandpepperandstirtocombine,thentakealittleofthemixtureatatimeanduselightlyoiledhandstoformintosmallpatties.

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Whentheoilishot,deep-frytheshrimpcakes,inbatches,forabout3minuteseach,oruntilgoldenandcrisp.Drainonpaper towelandservehotwithrice,soupandnuoccham.

These cakes are also suitable for serving as appetiserswith lettuce leaves andchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)ormint.Wrapinlettuce,addingasprinklingof herbs and dip in nuoc cham. Eat immediately. The mixture may also bebarbecuedovercoalsorgrilledonsticksofsugarcane.

ChaGiòFriedporkandcrabrollsIfVietnamesericepapers(banhtrang)aredifficulttofind,useChinesespringrollwrapperswhicharesoldfrozeninsupermarketsandinmanyAsiangrocerystores.

Makes:about24

25g(1oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles1smallonion,finelychopped6springonions(scallions),finelychopped250g(9oz)minced(ground)pork175g(6oz/1cup)crabmeat,flaked½teaspoonsalt

1tablespoonfishsauce½teaspoongroundblackpepper12ricepaperwrappersoilfordeep-fryinglettuceleavestoservefreshmintorcoriander(cilantro)leavestoservestripsofcucumbertoserveNuocchamtoserveSoakthenoodlesinhotwaterfor20minutes,thendrain.Cutinto2.5cm(1in)lengths.Putintoabowlwiththeonion,springonionandpork.Flakethecrabmeat,discardinganybonytissue,thenaddtothebowlwiththesalt,fishsauceandpepper.Mixwelltocombine.

Moisteneachricepaperbydippingbrieflyinwarmwater,thencutinhalf.Put2teaspoonsoffillingononeend.Rollup,turninginthesidessothatthefillingiscompletelyenclosed.Moistentheedgewithalittlewateroreggwhitetosecure.

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Whentheoilishot,deep-frytheporkandcrabrolls,inbatches,untiltheyarecrispandgolden.Donothavetheoiltoohotorthefillingwillnotcookthrough.Drainonpapertowel.

To serve, wrap each roll in a lettuce leaf including a small sprig of mint orcorianderandastripofcucumber.Dipinnuocchamandeatrightaway.

Brieflydipthericepaperwrappersinwatertosoften.Youneedthemtobejustpliable,notsoggy,beforefillingandwrapping.

ComChiênPot-roastedriceWithshort-ormedium-grainrice,theamountofwaterinthisrecipegivesadry,fluffyresult,withfirmgrains.Ifusinglong-grainrice,add500ml(17floz/2cups)hotwaterforthesameresult,becausethelong-grainvarietyhasagreaterabsorbency.Serves:4

440g(15½oz/2cups)medium-grainrice

2tablespoonspeanutoilorlard

NuocchamtoserveWashthericewellanddraininacolanderfor30minutes.

Heatthepeanutoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoverlowheat.Addtherice,stirringgentlywithametalspoon,for10–15minutes,oruntilthericebecomesopaqueandturnsgolden.Add435ml(15floz/1¾cups)hotwater,bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,cover,andcookfor20minutes,oruntilfluffy.Servewiththenuocchamandotherdishes.

BánhMiChiênTômPrawntoast

Makes:24pieces

12slices2-day-oldbread

1quantityPrawnpasteoilfordeep-fryinglettuceleavesNuocchamtoservefreshcoriander(cilantro)ormintleavestoservecucumberslicestoserveTrimthecrustsoffthebreadandcuteachsliceintohalveslengthways.Spreadtheprawnpasteovereachslice.

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Whenthe oil is hot, deep-fry the bread, paste side down, in batches, until crisp andgolden.Drainonpaper towel.Servehot,with the lettuce leaves forwrapping,nuoc cham for dipping and coriander or mint leaves and cucumber slices asaccompaniments.

BanhXeoCrispriceflourpancakesServethesepancakeseitherwholeorinpieces,wrappedinlettuceleavesanddippedinnuocchamsauce.

Makes:6

130g(4½oz/¾cup)riceflour35g(1¼oz/¼cup)plain(all-purpose)flour2tablespoonsgroundrice½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonsalt

100ml(3½floz)coconutcream2eggs

Filling

125ml(4floz/½cup)oil3garliccloves500g(1lb2oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeled,deveinedandhalvedlengthways4springonions(scallions),thinlysliced150g(5½oz)cookedporkloin,thinlysliced90g(3oz/1cup)freshbeansprouts,trimmedCombinetheflours,groundrice,turmericandsaltinabowl.Addthecoconutcream,eggsand200ml(7floz)waterandwhiskuntiljustcombined.Leavetostandfor30minutesandthentesttheconsistencywhichshouldbesimilartopouring(single/light)cream.Ifitistoothick,addextrawatertoachievethedesiredconsistency.

Tomakethefilling,heat1tablespoonoftheoilinasmallfryingpanoverhighheat.Addthegarlicandprawnsandstir-fryuntil theprawnsstart toturnpink.Transfertoaplate,thenarrangetheremainingingredientswithinreachofwhereyouaregoingtocookthepancakes.

Whenyouarereadytoserve,heat1tablespoonoftheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Add125ml(4floz/½vcup)ofpancakebatterandswirlquicklytocoverthebaseofthepan.Overonehalf,quicklyscatterthepreparedfilling ingredients starting with the spring onions, then the prawns, pork and

beansproutsandcookuntil thebasestarts tocrispandbrown.Fold theemptyhalf over and slide onto a serving plate. Repeat with the remaining oil andpancakebatterandserveimmediately.

GaiNuongLaChanhChickenskewerswithlimeleaves

Makes:about12skewers

1tablespoonvegetableoil

1stemlemongrass,whitepartonly,finelychopped3garliccloves,finelychopped

2tablespoonsfinelychoppedspringonion(scallion)1smallredchilli,deseededandfinelychopped2teaspoonsgratedpalmsugar(jaggery)orsoftbrownsugar1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

4makrut(kaffirlime)leaves,plus16extra500g(1lb2oz)bonelessskinlesschickenthighs,dicedinto5cm(2in)pieces200g(7oz)ricevermicelli(rice-stick)noodlestoserveSoak12bambooskewersinwatertopreventthemfromburningduringcooking.

Putthevegetableoil,lemongrass,garlic,springonion,chilli,palmsugar,pepper,fishsauceandmakrut leaves inafoodprocessorandprocesswell tocombine.Pouroverthechickenandrefrigerateforatleast1hourorovernighttomarinate.

Soakthericevermicellinoodlesinhotwaterfor10minutes,thendrainwellandkeepwarm.

Thread 4 pieces of chicken onto each skewer, alternating with the extra limeleaves.Cook under a preheated grill (broiler), or chargrill pan over high heat,turning a few times, until golden and cooked through. Serve with the ricevermicellinoodles.

GoiCuonFreshspringrollsThesecretofgoodricepaperrollsisnottosoakthepaperstoolong,ortofillthemtoomuchastheywillbelimpandlikelytoburstopen.Withinaminuteofsoaking,thericepaperwrappersbecomepliableenoughtoroll.

Makes:8rolls

100g(3½oz)ricevermicelli(rice-stick)noodles20g(¾oz/1cup)mixedfreshherbs,suchascoriander(cilantro),Thaibasilandmintleaves150g(5½oz)porkloin1tablespoonfishsauce1teaspoonsugar

8cookedlargeprawns(shrimp),peeled,deveinedandhalvedlengthways8softlettuceleaves8ricepaperwrappers1handfulgarlicchivesSoakthericevermicellinoodlesinhotwaterfor10minutes,thendrainwellandcutintoshortlengths.Combinewiththemixedherbsandrefrigerateuntilneeded.

Put the pork loin into a small frying pan with the fish sauce, sugar and 2tablespoonswater.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor2minutes.Turntheporkoverandsimmerforafurther2minutes.Turnofftheheatandallowtocoolinthepan.Removefromthecookingliquidandcutintothinslices.

Toassemble,dipthericepaperwrappersbrieflyinwater,thentransfertoacleantea towel (dish towel), shiny sidedown.Smoothover thewrapperswith cleanwethands, thenputoneprawnon thebottom thirdof thewrapper, so that thecolourful side is facing down. Over the top, place a lettuce leaf, a couple ofslicesofporkand2tablespoonsof theherbedricevermicellinoodles.Pickupthebottomedgeof thepaperandenclose thefilling, then tuck in thesides.Atthis stage place 2 garlic chives so that they stick out the side and continuerolling.Repeatwiththeremainingwrappersandfilling.ServewithNuoccham,ifdesired.

Avegetarianversionof thiscanbemadewith thinly slicedredcapsicum(bellpepper), blanched and sliced green beans and thinly sliced spring onion(scallion)addedto thevermicellinoodlesandherbs.Choppedroastedpeanutscanbeaddedifdesired.Servewithchillisauce.

CanhGàBiÐaoChickenandwintermelonsoupServes:6

500g(1lb2oz)chickenwings1kg(2lb3oz)wintermelon(gourd)orcucumber6springonions(scallions),thinlysliced1teaspoonsalt

1tablespoonfishsauceCutthechickenwingsinhalf.Peelthemelon,discardtheskin,seedsandmembraneandcutintobite-sizedpieces.

Putthechickenintoalargesaucepanwiththespringonion,saltand1.25litres(42floz/5cups)water.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,cover,andsimmerfor1hour,oruntiltheliquidhasreducedandthebrothiswell-flavoured.Addthewintermelon,bringtotheboilfor1minuteonly,thenaddthefishsauceandseasonwith freshlygroundblackpepper to taste.Serve immediately,withriceifdesired.

Ifusingcucumber,make sure theyare firstpeeled, slicedanddeseededbeforeaddingtothesoup.

CanhTômVòViênPrawndropsoupServes:41litre(34floz/4cups)fishorchickenstock

½quantityPrawnpaste150g(5½oz/2cups)finelyshreddedChinesecabbage(wombok)3springonions(scallions),thinlyslicedPutthestockintoalargesaucepanwiththefishsauceandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolowandcontinuetosimmer.Take½teaspoonoftheprawnpasteatatimeanddropitintothesimmeringstock–whencookeditwillturnopaqueandrisetothetop.Repeatuntilallthepasteisused,thenaddthecabbage,bringbacktotheboil,coverandcookfor1minute,oruntilthecabbageistender.Sprinklethespringonionontopandremovefromtheheatimmediately.Coverandleavetorestfor1minute,thenservehot.

CanhÐâuHuSoupwithtofuServes:2500ml(17floz/2cups)strongchickenstock

2squaresfreshtofu

125g(4½oz/½cup)choppedcookedchicken1tablespoonchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesPutthestockinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboil.Addthetofuandchicken,reducetheheattolowandsimmeruntilheatedthrough.Servethesoupwiththecoriandersprinkledoverthetop.

CanhCuSenPorkandlotusrootsoupServes:4

500g(1lb2oz)frozenlotusroot500g(1lb2oz)leanporkribs,cutintoshortlengths3springonions(scallions),thinlysliced½teaspoonsalt1–2tablespoonsfishsaucePeelthelotusrootandcutintothinslices.Putitintoalargesaucepanwiththeporkandspringonion,saltand1.5litres(51floz/6cups)water.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,cover,andsimmerfor1½hours,oruntiltheporkiswellcookedandtheliquidhasreducedtoabout1litre(34floz/4cups).Addthefishsaucetotasteandservehotwithwhiterice.

PhoBeefsoupwithsaladYoumaywellthinkasoupandasaladareanoddcombinationwhenservedtogether,butdon’tmissoutonthisnationaldishbybeingtoocautious.RatherlikethemohhinghaofBurma,thestrongstockiscombinedwithotheringredientstomakeamealinabowl.Phocanbeservedatthetablewiththehotstockstillsimmeringatthetable,asguestsaddothercomponentstotheirbowlstosuittheirowntastes.

Serves:6–8

Beefstock

3kg(6lb10oz)beefribbones500g(1lb2oz)stewingsteak2onions,sliced1tablespoonthinlyslicedfreshginger1cinnamonstick1teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns3staranise

500g(1lb2oz)freshricenoodlesor250g(9oz)driedricenoodles495g(1lb1oz/5½cups)freshbeansprouts,trimmed6springonions(scallions),thinlysliced4firmripetomatoes,halvedlengthwaysandthinlysliced2whiteonions,thinlysliced

500g(1lb2oz)rumpsteak,thinlyslicedfishsaucelemonwedgesfreshredorgreenchillies,deseededandthinlyslicedchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves1largehandfulfreshmintleaves1largehandfulThaibasil

leavesPutthebonesandsteakintoalargesaucepanwithenoughwatertocover.Addtheonion,ginger,cinnamonstick,peppercornsandstaranise.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerforatleast6hours.Skimoffanyscumthatrisestothesurfaceduringcooking.Seasonwithsalttotaste.

Ifusingfreshricenoodles,slicetheminto7cm(2¾in)lengthsandpourboilingwater over them, then drainwell. If using dried rice noodles, cook them in asaucepanofboilingwateruntiltender,thendrainwell.

Arrange the bean sprouts, spring onion, tomato, onion and steak on a servingplate.

To serve, put some of the cooked noodles and some bean sprouts in largeindividualservingbowls.Putafewslicesofbeef, tomatoandonion ina largeladle, immerse in theboilingstockuntil thebeefbegins to lose itsredness– itshould be pale pink. Pour the contents of the ladle over the noodles andbeansprouts.Guestsaddfishsauce,asqueezeoflemonjuice,chilliesandfreshherbstotaste.

CanhBunTauFishandcellophanenoodlesoupServes:6–8

60ml(2floz/¼cup)fishsauce

1teaspoonsalt

½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper60g(2oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles1½tablespoonspeanutoil

1onion,thinlysliced2garliccloves,crushed2daunsalamleaves(glossary)1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoondriedshrimppaste

1teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest

1tablespoonthinlyslicedspringonions(scallions)Coarselychopthefishandplaceinabowlwiththeginger,1tablespoonofthefishsauceandhalfofthesaltandpepper.Setaside.

Soakthenoodlesinhotwaterfor10minutes,thendrainwell.

Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add theonion,garlicanddaunsalamleavesandstir-fryuntiltheonionissoft.Addtheturmericanddriedshrimppasteandstir-fryforafurther1minute,usingaspoontocrushthepasteagainstthesideofthepan.Addthelemonzest,1.5litres(51floz/6 cups) water and the noodles and remaining fish sauce. Season with theremainingsaltandpepper.Boilfor5minutes,thenaddthefish,reducetheheat

to lowandsimmer for5minutes,oruntil the fish iscooked through.Removefromtheheat,sprinklewiththespringonionandservehot.

MucDônThitSquidstuffedwithpork

Serves:6–8

10driedlilybuds(goldenneedles)(glossary)250g(9oz)minced(ground)pork25g(1oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles1garlicclove,crushed

3springonions(scallions),thinlysliced½teaspoonsalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

500g(1lb2oz)squid80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)peanutoilforfryingSoakthemushroomsandlilybudsinseparatebowlswithhotwaterfor20–30minutes,thendrainwell.Cutoffanddiscardthemushroomstemsandthinlyslicethecaps.Discardanytoughportionsoftheflowersandchopfinely.

Soakthecellophanenoodlesinhotwaterfor10minutes,thendrainwell.

Putthemushroom,lilybuds,porkand½cupofthenoodlesinabowlandtosstocombine.Addthegarlic,springonion,salt,pepperandfishsaucetotaste,usingyourhandstothoroughlycombine.

Cleaneach squid, removing the ink sac,discarding theheadand reserving thetentacles.Rinse the tubes under cold runningwater to remove the skin.Drainwell.Chopthetentaclesfinelyandmixwiththeporkmixture.

Stufftheporkmixtureintoeachsquidtube,packingitinfirmly,andsecuringtheendwithashorttoothpicktoseal.

Heatthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.

Cook the squid for 5 minutes. Prick the squid with a fine skewer, turn andcontinue to cook for a further10minutes, or until cooked through–youmayneedtocookforalittlelongerifthesquidarelarge.

Toserve,cuteachstuffedsquidintothinslicesandarrangeonabedoflettuceleaves.

TrungChiênVoiCuaCrabomelette

Serves:3–4

4eggs,lightlybeaten½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper125g(4½oz)crabmeatoilforfrying2springonions(scallions),thinlysliced1freshredchilli,deseededandsliced(optional)

1teaspoonfishsauce

NuocchamtoserveSeasontheeggwiththesaltandpepper.

Flakethecrabmeat,discardinganybonytissue.

Heat1tablespoonoftheoilinafryingpanoverlowheat.Addthespringonionandchilliandstir-fryfor1minute,thenaddthecrabmeatandcontinuetostir-fryforafurther1–2minutes.Addthefishsauceandstirthrough,thenremovetoasmallplateandallowtocool.

Heat1teaspoonoftheoilinthefryingpan,pourintheeggandcook,drawingtheeggmixtureinfromthesideofthepan,untilsetonthebottomandcreamyon top. Spoon the crab mixture into the centre of the omelette and fold theomeletteinhalf,thencookuntilheatedthrough.Servewiththenuoccham.

CaHâpSteamedfish

Serves:6

1kg(2lb3oz)wholefishor750g(1lb11oz)skinless,boneless,firmwhitefishfillets90g(3oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles

1carrot,cutintothinmatchsticks

2tablespoonfinelygratedfreshginger

1largegarlicclove,crushed125g(4½oz/1½cups)thinlyslicedcookedpork

¼teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

125ml(4floz/½cup)coconutmilk2tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves2tablespoonsthinlyslicedspringonion(scallion)Wipethefishwithdamppapertowel.Ifusingwholefish,rubsaltoverthebody,thenrinsewellanddrywithpapertowel.Trimthefinsandtailandmakediagonalslashesinthefleshtoallowfortheseasoningstopenetrate.Placeinalargeheatproofdish.

Soakthenoodlesinhotwaterfor20minutes,thendrainwellandcutintoshortlengths.

Soakthemushroomsinhotwaterfor20–30minutes,thendrainwell,cutoffanddiscardthestemsandthinlyslicethecaps.

Combine the noodles, mushroom, carrot, ginger, garlic, pork, soy sauce, salt,pepperandfishsauceinabowl.Spreadthisoverthefish,thensteamthefishfor30minutes,oruntilthefishiscookedthrough.Ifusingfishfillets,theseshouldonly take15–20minutes.Pour thecoconutmilkover the topandgarnishwiththecorianderandspringonion.Servewithwhiterice.

CaVoViênXaoCaiBeTrangFishcakeswithChinesecabbageServes:4

1tablespoonoil

1garlicclove,crushed½teaspoonfinelygratedfreshginger½headChinesecabbage(wombok),cutinto2.5cm(1in)slices

1tablespoonlightsoysauce

½teaspoonsalt

2teaspoonsoystersauce

60ml(2floz/¼cup)stockorwater3Chinese-stylefishcakes,thinlysliced(glossary)½teaspooncornflour(cornstarch)Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverlowheat.Addthegarlicandgingerandcookforafewseconds,thenaddthecabbageandstir-fryfor1minute.Addthesoysauce,saltandoystersauceandstirwelltocombine.Addthestockandbringtotheboil,thenaddtheslicedfishcakeandstiruntilheatedthrough.

Inasmallbowl,combinethecornflourwithjustenoughwatertomakeasmoothpaste.

Push the ingredients to the side of the wok, add the cornflourmixture to thecentre of the wok and stir constantly until it boils and thickens. Toss all theingredientstogetherandserveatoncewithwhiterice.

GàHâpCàSteamedchickenwithtomatoes

Serves:4

750g(1lb11oz)bonelessskinlesschickenthighsandbreasts3ripetomatoes,cutintothinwedges3springonions(scallions),thinlysliced1tablespoonfinelygratedfreshginger

½teaspoonsalt½teaspoonsugarfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

2teaspoonssesameoil

NuocchamtoserveRemovetheskinandbonesfromthechickenandcutthefleshintobite-sizedpieces.

Putthechickenintoaheatproofbowlorotherdeepdishwithalltheremainingingredientsandmixthoroughly.

Fillalargesaucepanordeepfryingpanwithwaterandbringtotheboil.Placethebowlinthepan–thewatershouldcomeaboutone-thirdofthewayupthebowl.Coverandsteamforabout25–35minutes,oruntilthechickeniscookedthrough.Check periodically to ensure that thewater has not boiled away, andaddmoreboilingwaterifitisgettinglow.Servewithwhitericeandnuoccham.

NâmÐôngCôTiêmGàSteamedchickenwithmushroomsServes:4

1kg(2lb3oz)wholechicken

1tablespoonfinelyshreddedfreshginger

3springonions(scallions),thinlyslicedfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

2teaspoonsfishsauce

1smallgarlicclove,crushed¼teaspoonsalt

1teaspoonsesameoil

Soak themushrooms in hotwater for 20–30minutes.Drainwell.Cut off anddiscardthemushroomstemsandthinlyslicethecaps.

Divide the chicken into 2 parts. (Dependingonwhat youwant to dowith theremaining flesh, cut thebird intohalves lengthways, or reserve thebreast andwingsforanotherdish.)Removetheskinandbonesfromthechickenandcutthefleshintobite-sizedpieces.

Putthechickenintoaheatproofbowlorotherdeepdishwiththemushroomandremainingingredients.Mixwell.

Fillalargesaucepanordeepfryingpanwithwaterandbringtotheboil.Placethebowlinthepan–thewatershouldcomeaboutone-thirdofthewayupthebowl.Coverandsteamforabout25–30minutes,oruntilthechickeniscookedthrough.Check periodically to ensure that thewater has not boiled away, and

addmoreboilingwaterifitisgettinglow.Servewithrice,noodlesorcellophane(beanthread)noodles.

GàXàoXaÓtChickenwithlemongrass

Serves:4–6

1kg(2lb3oz)wholechicken3–4stemslemongrass,whitepartonly,thinlysliced3springonions(scallions),thinlysliced

1teaspoonsalt

½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper,plusextratotaste

2tablespoonsoil

1–2freshredchillies,deseededandchopped80g(2¾oz/½cup)roastedpeanuts,finelychopped2teaspoonssugar

Jointthechicken(seeJointingachicken)andcutintoservingpieces.

Gentlybruisethelemongrassusingamortarandpestle.

Placethelemongrassinabowlwiththespringonion,salt,pepperandchickenandtosswelltocombine.Setasidefor30minutes.

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addthechicken mixture and stir-fry for 3 minutes. Add the chilli and stir-fry for afurther 10 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Add the peanuts,seasonwiththesugarandextrapepperandstirwell.Addthefishsauceandtosstodistributeevenly,thenservewithriceornoodles.

GàXàoBúnTàuChickenwithcellophanenoodlesServes:4–6

750g(1lb11oz)bonelessskinlesschickenthighsandbreasts125g(4½oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles

1tablespoonoil

2springonions(scallions),thinlysliced2tablespoonsfishsauce

¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2firmripetomatoes

2whiteonions

vinegartotaste

sugartotaste

Removetheskinfromthechickenandcutthemeatintobite-sizedpieces.

Soakthenoodlesinhotwaterfor20minutes,thendrainwellandcutthenoodlesintobite-sizedlengths.

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpan.Addthespringonionandchickenandstir-fryfor2–3minutes.Addthefishsauce,soysauce,pepperand125ml(4floz/½cup)water,bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmer for 3 minutes. Add the noodles, bring back to the boil, stirringconstantly,andboilforafurther3minutes.Removefromtheheatandservehot,accompaniedbyasaladofslicedtomatoandslicedwhiteonions,dressedwithadash ofwhite vinegar, a sprinkling of sugar, and seasonwith salt and freshly

groundblackpeppertotaste.

ThitHeoKhoTiêuDry-cookedporkServes:6–8750g(1lb11oz)leanporkchops(cutlets)2tablespoonsfishsauce

1tablespoonsugar

3springonions(scallions),thinlysliced½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperRemovetheskinandbonesfromtheporkchops,andcutthemeatintothinstrips.Putthemeatintoasmall,deepsaucepan–avoidusingalargepanastheliquidwillevaporatetooquickly.

Addalltheremainingingredientsand2tablespoonswaterandbringtotheboil.Cook for 2 minutes over high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer for 20minutes, or until the liquid is completely absorbed and the pork is cookedthrough.Stirtowardsendofcookingsothatthemeatdoesnotburn.Servewithriceandsalad.

ChaÐùmPorkloaf

Serves:4–6

8–10driedshiitakemushrooms750g(1lb11oz)minced(ground)pork6springonions(scallions),thinlysliced4eggs,lightlybeaten

½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperNuocchamtoserveSoakthemushroomsinhotwaterfor20–30minutes.Drainwell,thencutoffanddiscardthemushroomstemsandthinlyslicethecaps.Placeinabowlwiththeremainingingredientsandmixwelltocombine.

Greasealoaf(bar)tinandpackthemixturefirmlyintoit,coverwithadoublelayerofbakingpaperor foilandsteamoverhighheat for1houror longer,oruntilwellcooked.Allowtocoolslightlyinthetinuntilfirm,thenturnout,sliceandservewithalettucesaladandnuoccham.

ThitHeoKhoKhôPorkcookedwithsugarServes:6–81–1.25kg(2lb3oz–2lb12oz)porkbellyorloin

2tablespoonsoil

3springonions(scallions),finelychopped

2teaspoonssugar

½teaspoonsaltapinchoffreshlygroundblackpepperortotaste

Cuttheporkintolargecubes–donotdiscardallthefatasthisaddsflavour.

Heat theoil ina largesaucepanover lowheat.Addthespringonionandcookuntilgolden.Addtheporkandstir-fryuntiltheporkstartstochangecolour,thenaddthesugar,saltandpepper,andcontinuestirringuntil themeatisbrownallover.

Add1litre(34floz/4cups)watertothepanandsimmerfor1hour.Addthefishsauce and continue to simmer until the pork is almost dry, taking care to stirfrequentlyastheliquidreducesortheporkmayburn.Servewithwhiterice.

ÐùiHeoKhoNôiÐâtPot-roastedpork

Thisisnoteatenasaone-sittingmeal,butpreparedandthenusedinanumberofdishes requiring cooked pork, just as barbecued pork fillet is used inChinesecooking.

1.5–2kg(3lb5oz–4lb6oz)legofpork5garliccloves

2teaspoonssalt

½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonfishsauce

1tablespoonoil

Slice4ofthegarliccloves.Makesmalldeepincisionsallovertheporkwiththetipofasmallknifeandinsertslicesofgarlicineachcut.

Crushtheremaininggarlicwiththesalt,thencombinewiththepepperandfishsauceandruballoverthepork.

Heat the oil in a large, deep casserole or heavy-based saucepan overmediumheat.Cooktheporkbrieflyonallsidesuntilbrownallover.Add250ml(8½floz/1cup)water,bringtotheboil, thenreducetheheat tolow,cover,andcookfor 1½hours, or until the pork is cooked through.Turn thepork3or 4 timesduringcookingsothatitcooksevenly.

Allow tocool, thencut into slicesandservewith salad,oruse inotherdishesrequiringpork.

NemNuóngSkeweredpork,barbecued

Theporkforthisrecipeispounded,notminced(ground).Ifthethoughtexhaustsyou,taketheeasywayout,buttheendresultwillnotbethesame.

Serves:6

500g(1lb2oz)porkfillet

2garliccloves

½teaspoonsalt½teaspoonsugar3teaspoonsricewineordrysherry2tablespoonsmeltedporkfatorlard1tablespoontoastedgroundrice(glossary)

3teaspoonsfishsauce

500g(1lb2oz)freshricenoodlesor125g(4½oz)driedricenoodles1headlettuce,rinsedandseparatedintoleavessprigsoffreshcoriander(cilantro)orminttoserveNuoclèosauce

Soakbambooskewersinwatertopreventthemfromburningduringcooking.

Cuttheporkfilletintoverythinslices,thencutintosmalldice.Crushthegarlicfinelywiththesaltandsugar,thenmixwiththewine.Pouroverthepork,mixwellandsetasideforatleast30minutestomarinate.

Using amortar and pestle, pound themeat, workingwith small portions at atime, until it has a paste-like consistency.As each lot is done, remove it to alarge bowl.Add themelted pork fat, ground rice and fish sauce and use yourhands to knead together and combine. Form small sausage shapes andmouldthem onto bamboo skewers, squeezing them on very firmly. Barbecue over

glowing coals or under a preheatedgrill (broiler), at a gooddistance from theheatsource,turningoftenuntilcookedthrough.

Cookthenoodlesinhotwaterfor10minutesuntiltender,thendrainwell.Servetheskewerswith thenoodles, lettuce leaves,corianderandnuoc lèosauceandleteachpersonassembletheirownsnack.Aleafoflettuceistoppedwithafewrice noodles, some pork, a sprig of fresh coriander, a spoonful of sauce, thenrolled up to form a neat roll.This takes somepractice. If preferred, the saucemaybeservedasadippingsauce.

BòXàoMângBeefwithbambooshootsServes:3–4

80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)peanutoil375g(13oz)rumporfilletsteak,thinlyslicedinto5cm(2in)strips1largetinbambooshoots,drainedandsliced6springonions(scallions),sliced

½teaspoonsalt1garlicclove,crushed4tablespoonstoasted,crushedsesameseedsHeat2tablespoonsofthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addthebeefandstir-fryfor1minute.Removefromthewokwhilethemeatisstillpink.

Heat the remaining oil in the same wok. Add the bamboo shoots and springonionandstir-fryfor2minutes.Addthefishsauceandsaltandcontinuetostir-fryforafurther5minutes.Addthegarlicandstir-fryfor1minute,thenreturnthe beef to the wok and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the sesame seeds, toss tocombine,andservehotwithrice.

BòXàoDâuMèBeefwithsesamesauceServes:3–4

½teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonbicarbonateofsoda(bakingsoda)1tablespoonsoysauce250g(9oz)roundsteak,thinlysliced60ml(2floz/¼cup)peanutoil1garlicclove,crushed125ml(4floz/½cup)beefstock3teaspoonscornflour(cornstarch)2teaspoonssesamepaste(glossary)1–2teaspoonsChinesechillisauceInabowl,mixtogetherthesalt,bicarbonateofsoda,soysauceand2tablespoonshotwater.Addthebeefandturntocoatuntilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed,thensetasidetomarinatefor2hours,orrefrigerateovernight.(Ifrumporothertendersteakisused,thisstepmaybeomitted.)Heatthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverhighheat.Addthegarlicandbeefandstir-fryforabout2minutes,oruntilthemeathaschangedcolour.Addthestockandbringtotheboil.

Inasmallbowl,combinethecornflourand2tablespoonscoldwatertomakeasmoothpaste.Addto thewok,stirringuntil thesauceboilsand thickens.Turnofftheheat,stirinthesesamepasteandchillisauceandserveimmediatelywithwhiterice.

Youcanaddvegetablestothisdishifyoulike–tryaddingsomeslicedbambooshootsorChinesecabbage(wombok)withbeansprouts.

TrúngHâpSteamedeggwithmushrooms

Serves:3–4

25g(1oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles125g(4½oz)crabmeatorprawn(shrimp)meat

2springonions(scallions),thinlysliced2teaspoonsfinelychoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves½teaspoonsalt

⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper125g(4½oz/½cup)finelychoppedcookedporkNuocchamtoserveSoakthemushroomsinhotwaterfor20–30minutes.Drainwell.Cutoffanddiscardthemushroomstemsandthinlyslicethecaps.

Soakthenoodlesinhotwaterfor20minutes,thendrainwell.Measure½cupofthenoodlesandsetaside.Flakethecrabmeatanddiscardanybonybits.

Beattheeggsuntiltheyolksandwhitesarewellmixedbutnotfrothy.Stirinthespring onion, coriander, salt and pepper and then the mushroom, noodles,crabmeatandpork.Pourthemixtureintoabakingdish.

Fillalargesaucepanordeepfryingpanwithwaterandbringtotheboil.Placethebakingdishinthepan–thewatershouldcomeaboutone-thirdofthewayupthebowl.Coverandsteamforabout25–35minutes,oruntiltheeggiscookedthrough.Check periodically to ensure that thewater has not boiled away, andaddmoreboilingwaterifitisgettinglow.Servewithriceandnuoccham.

ComChay

Stir-friedmixedvegetables

Serves:4

6driedshiitakemushrooms1tablespoondarksoysauce1teaspoonsesameoil2teaspoonssugar1tablespoonoil1garlicclove,crushed½teaspoonfinelygratedfreshginger3celerystalks,thinlysliced3springonions(scallions),sliced½headcabbageorChinesecabbage(wombok),chopped3–4mustardcabbage(gaichoy)leaves,chopped1smallheadlettuce,chopped1½tablespoonslightsoysauce1teaspooncornflour(cornstarch)Soakthemushroomsinhotwaterfor20–30minutes.Drainwell,thencutoffanddiscardthemushroomstemsandthinlyslicethecaps.Placeinasmallsaucepanwith125ml(4floz/½cup)water,thedarksoysauce,sesameoilandsugarandsimmeruntilalmostalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addthegarlic and ginger and heat for a few seconds only.Add the celery and springonionandstir-fryoverhighheatfor2minutes,thenaddthecabbagesandlettuceandstir-fryfor30seconds.Addthelightsoysauceandmushroommixturewith60ml(2floz/¼cup)waterandstirtocombine.

Inasmallbowl,combinethecornflourwith1tablespoonwaterandstirtomakeasmoothpaste.Addtothewokandstiruntilthesauceboilsandthickens.Serveatoncewithrice.

NuocChâmGarlic,chilliandfishsauceNoVietnamesemealisconsideredcompletewithoutthissauce,whichisusedasfreelyassaltandpepperintheWest.Itisalsoknownasnuocmamsauce.

2freshredchillies

2garliccloves,peeled

1tablespoonsugar

½lemonor1lime

1tablespoonricevinegar

80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)fishsauceIfyouwantamildersauce,removetheseedsfromthechillies.Otherwise,simplycutthechilliesintopieces,andpoundusingamortarandpestle.Addthegarlicandsugarandcontinuetopoundtoapulp.Peelthelemon,removingallthewhitepith,thencutintothinslices,discardinganyseeds.Addasmallpieceoflemonatatimetothechilliandpoundtoapulp.Stirinthevinegar,fishsauceand2tablespoonswater.Servethesauceinasmallbowlandusesparingly.

NuocLèoGlutinousriceandsoybeansauceMakes:2cups

100g(3½oz/½cup)glutinousrice4–5garliccloves2tablespoonssugar

1tablespoonoil

250g(9oz)minced(ground)pork½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper60ml(2floz/¼cup)Chinesegroundbeansauce500ml(17floz/2cups)chickenorporkstock1tablespoonfishsauce

2teaspoonsChinesechillisauce

160g(5½oz/1cup)roastedpeanuts,crushedPutthericeand1litre(34floz/4cups)waterintoalargeheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,cover,andsimmerfor20minutes,thenuncoverandcontinuesimmering,stirringoccasionally,untilallthewaterhasbeenabsorbed.

Crush the garlicwith 1 teaspoon of the sugar. Heat the oil in awok or largeheavy-basedfryingpanoverlowheat.Addthegarlicandcookuntilitstartstochange colour. Add the pork and stir-fry over medium heat until it changescolour, then add thepepper andbean sauce and stirwell to combine.Add thestock, remaining sugar and fish sauce, stirwell and simmer for a further 1–2minutes. Add the cooked rice and continue simmering for 5 minutes, stirringfrequently. Remove from the heat, then stir in the chilli sauce and groundpeanuts.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

ChuôiNuongBananacakewithcashews

Makes:2x20cmroundcakes

220g(8oz/1cup)sugar190ml(6½oz/¾cup)pouring(single/light)creamorcoconutcream225g(8oz/1½cups)plain(all-purpose)flour2kg(4lb6oz)veryripebananas155g(5½oz/1cup)cashewnuts,coarselychopped60g(2oz/1cup)gratedfreshcoconutPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwo20cm(8in)roundcaketinsanddustlightlywithflour,shakingoutanyexcess.

Beattheeggsandsugartogetherinthebowlofanelectricmixeronlowspeeduntil thick and pale. Add the cream and beat for a few seconds until justcombined.Siftintheflouranduseawoodenspoontofoldtogether.

Peelthebananasandsmashwiththeflatsideofachopper,butdonotmash.Addtothebatterwiththenutsandcoconutandstironlyuntiljustcombined.

Pour into theprepared tinsandbake in theoven for1hour,oruntil the top isgoldenbrown–thecakewillbequitesolid,muchlikeapudding.Servewarmorcold.

BánhFlanVietnamesecrèmecaramelAsuccessfulfusionofcuisinesandtechniques,thiseasysteamedcrèmecarameluseslessfat(nocream,justwholemilk)andwholeeggs,givingitasmoother,silkiertexturethatisfirmerthanthetraditionalFrenchdessert.TheingeniousmethodofsteamingcameaboutsinceovensarerareinVietnamesekitchens.

Makes:6

Caramel

110g(4oz/½cup)sugar

Custard

500ml(17floz/2cups)milk4eggs110g(4oz/½cup)sugar1teaspoonnaturalvanillaextractTomakethecaramel,putthesugarand60ml(2floz/¼cup)waterintoasaucepanovermediumheatandsitovertheheat,withoutstirring,untilgolden.Dividethismixtureevenlybetweensix125ml(4floz/½cup)capacityramekinsorsimilarmoulds,swirlingtocoatthebase.(Heatingthecaramelbrieflyinamicrowavewillmakeitfluidagainifithassetprematurely.)Putthemilkintoaseparatesaucepanandbringjusttosimmeringpoint.Inabowl,whisktogethertheeggsandsugaruntiljustcombined,thengraduallyaddthehotmilk,stirringconstantly.Stirinthevanillatocombine,thenremovefromtheheatandstrain

themilkmixtureintoeachmouldoverthecarameluntilfilledalmosttothetop.

Filla largesaucepanordeepfryingpanwithwaterandbring to theboil, thenreducetheheattolow.Placetheramekinsonarackoverthesimmeringwater,cover,andcookfor20minutes,oruntilfirm.Iftheheatistoohigh,thecustardwillbubbleandloseitssilkysmoothness.

Remove from the heat, chill for a few hours, then turn out and serve. Thecaramelmeltsasthedessertchills,soformorecaramelsyrup,makethemadayahead.

Cambodia&Laos

Cambodia(Khmer)Riceisthestaffoflife,asinallofAsia,andyouwon’thavetodrivefaroutofCambodia’scitiestoseehowmuchlandisdedicatedtogrowingit.Whilericeisshooting,thepaddyfieldsareapatchworkofvibrantgreen.Laterintheseasonyou can drive through the villages and see the harvested rice, golden grainsdryinginthesunonlargewovenmats.Manyruralfamiliesgrowenoughricefortheirownneedsandalsoraisetheirownchickens.

However, not all farming takesplaceondry land, and floatingvillageson theMekonganditstributariesareauniquepartofCambodianculture.Everyaspectof life is catered to, fromchurch to school to floating ‘farmyards’ofpigs andchickens.Fishermenrhythmicallybeat theirnetswithstickstoreleasethetiny,flailingsilverfishcaughtupinthem–presumablyformakingfishsauce.NotriptoCambodiawouldbecompletewithoutaglimpseoflifeontheriver.

Theprincipaldietofthepeopleisriceandfish.Fishandshellfishareplentiful,fromboththeMekongRiverandthesea.Vegetablesgroweasilyinthetropicalheatofthisoftenlush,greenlandandmakeupasubstantialpartofthelocaldiet.Many village families will cultivate a garden plot to grow bananas and otherfruitandvegetablesfortheirownneeds,butdailyvisitstothemarketsarestillnecessaryasrefrigerationisstillvirtuallyunknowninruralcommunities.

Buffalomeat,pork,chicken,duck,pigeonsand tinypaddybirds (evensmallerthansparrows),whichcometothericefieldsandarecapturedinnets,areeatenwith enjoyment, but in much smaller quantities than in the West. Meat andpoultryareneverthemaindish,butalwaystheaccompaniment.Riceisservedboiledwithfishoralittlepoultryorbuffalomeatforbreakfast,lunchanddinner.

Sometimesabowlofnoodlesoupmaytakeitsplaceatbreakfast,butforthetwomainmealsofthedayitisrice(cookedwithoutsalt)thatisthecentraldish.Itisaccompaniedbyfriedfish,kari,vegetablesandasoup.Allthedishesareservedatonce,anddinersmaketheirownchoice.Mutton(orlamb)isnoteatenatall.

‘Cambodian food isverymuch likeThaiorLao foodwitha touchofChineseinfluence,’IwastoldbyJohnLeeKhaandMissLyna,peoplefromCambodiawhoIinterviewedwhenIwasresearchingthisbook.Thereisnodoubtthatthereareflavourscommontoallthreecuisines.

Aswetalkedoverlunch,InoticedthatJohn’scupwasfilledwithwhatseemedtobewater,yet it steamed likehot tea.WhenIaskedhimwhatwasgenerallydrunkwithmealsinCambodia,hetoldmethatteaorcoffeeareseldomservedand,whenteaisserved,Chineseteaispreferredbutitisusualforacupofwarmwater(gesturingtowardshiscup)tobesippedalongwiththemeal.Inveryhotweather the evening meal might consist only of plain boiled rice to give thedigestionarest.

Cambodiancookingisfullofflavour,butmanyoftheherbsusedarenotwidelyavailableoutsideSoutheastAsia,soIhavechosendishesusingthebetter-knownflavourings.As inmost otherAsian countries, cooking inCambodia is not anexactscience,buteverythingiscooked‘totaste’andthecookisexpectedtouseoriginalityandinitiativetoimprovetheflavourofadish.

IncommonwiththepeopleofThailand,Laos,VietnamandBurma,Cambodiansconsiderfishsauce,tirktrey,nexttoriceinimportance.Itwouldbeunthinkableforthemtohavetodowithoutit,orprahok,theirpungentfermentedfishpaste.

AverypopularCambodiandishistreiaing,fishgrilledovercharcoalandservedwithadishof rawvegetables suchas cucumber slicesand freshbean sprouts,salad greens and fresh herbs (mint, dill, coriander/cilantro). But this isincompleteuntil thepungentsauce is served.Thesauce isbasedon fishsaucewithgarlic,freshchillies,lemonjuice,sugarandvinegar,uptowhichpointitisstrikingly similar to Vietnam’s nuoc cham. But the Cambodian version alsoincludes roastedgroundpeanuts, an ingredient it shareswithLaotianandThaisauces. Small pieces of the grilled fish are wrapped in a salad leaf withcucumber,beansproutsandasprigortwooffreshherbsandthewholeparcelisdippedinthesaucebeforebeingeatenwithrice.

Althoughthereisnot thesameemphasisonsweetdessertsas intheWest,you

mayeatyourfillofluscioustropicalbounty,formostfruitsyoucanimagineareavailableintheirseason.Withtropicalfruitsonoffer,suchasrambutan,longan,mangosteen, dragon fruit, milkfruit, sapodilla, pineapple, small mandarins,roseapple, pomegranate, young coconut, tiny bananas,mangoes and themuchmaligneddurian,whoneedstocookdessert?

LaosThe most distinctive feature of Laotian cuisine is the prominence given toglutinous rice. In other Asian countries, glutinous (or sticky) rice, sometimescalled‘sweet rice’, isusedexclusivelyforsweetsor littlesnacks,butLaotiansprefer this rice forallkindsofdishesandserve itatmealtimes.Forbreakfast,glutinousriceissoakedfor8–10hours,steameduntilsoftandeatenwithmango,coconut or padek (a fish product made at home in which chunks of fish arepreserved inbrine).The liquid inwhich the fish is steeped is alsousedand isknownasnampadek.Thericeisalsosometimessteamedandeatenwithblackbeansoryams.

In Cambodian and Laotian cities, restaurants serving local food have onlyemerged in recent times. In the past, when people ate out, they wouldtraditionally eat excellent Chinese or French food. Interestingly, the Frenchinfluenceonthefoodofthesecountrieshasnotmingledwiththelocaldishes;ithasremainedseparateandbecomeverypopular.However,theinterestoftouristswhowant to taste the local cuisine aswell as thegrowingpopularity of thesecountries as tourist destinations has resulted in the emergence of restaurantsservingnationaldishes.

WhenIwrotethiscookbook,theonlyopportunityforeatinglocalcuisinewastobe invited intoaLaohome.Laodishes takea long time toprepareandall theingredients have to be fresh.Meals are not planned in advance and themenudepends on whatever is available when mealtime comes. They would neverconsiderusingfrozenfood.Laopeopleenjoyeatingfreshmeat,freshvegetablesandfreshfruit.Notmanypeoplehaverefrigeratorsinwhichtostoretheirfood,andeveniftheyhadtheywouldnotchoosetostoreitforlong.

Every typical Lao house has a small garden in front or at the back to growvegetablesandthemyriadherbsthatareusedinLaotianfood–differenttypesofmint, lemongrass,galangal,Laoeggplant (aubergine), chilliesofvariouskindsandbananatreesarethemostcommon.Thebananatreeisputtomanyuses.Thefruitiseatenbothfreshandripe,orcookedasavegetablewhenitisstarchyandunripe. The large, heavy flower is also used as a vegetable. The leaves areinvaluableforwrappingfoodbeforesteamingorgrillingovercoalsandeventheinside of the tree trunk is used. Some ingredients – onions, garlic, chilli,

tamarind,amongothersaredriedandstoredforusewhentheyareoutofseason.

Thedaily income is far fromsufficient formost families, so someof themenhuntforfoodandarerewardedwithdeerorothergame.Othersgofishing,forthereareplentyoffishinthemanytributariesof theMekongRiver.Chickens,ducks,pigsandturkeysarecommonlyrearedforfood.

ThemealseateninLaosaresimple.Forbreakfast,glutinousriceisservedwithblack or white coffee. Sometimes tasty morsels of dried meat, fried chicken,beef,fishorporkmaybeservedwiththericeandaccompaniedbychillipaste.

Lunch is rice again, accompaniedby soup, a fish,meat or chickendish, somefreshor cookedvegetables and, of course, thehot sauce.The eveningmeal issimilar, but far from repetitive or dull. An imaginative cook, in Laos aselsewhere, can vary the same main ingredients with a hundred differentcombinationsof flavours.OnSundays, for a special lunch, the traditionaldishcalledlaporkoyisprepared.AfterSundaybreakfastonevisitsthelocalmarketfor a leg of fresh venison and some of the deer’s liver aswell as one or twovegetables.Backhome,thepreparationbegins.Allthebestmeatiscutintothinslicesorminced.Thescrapsandtheboneareusedtomakestrong,tastystocksandbroths.

Meanwhile, the liver is cut into thin slices like themeat;dried redchillies arefriedandthenground;glutinousriceisroasteduntildarkbrown,thenpoundedfinely; galangal is scraped and cut into shreds; spring onions (scallions) aresliced; three kinds of mint are chopped; fish paste is cooked and mixed to asaucewhichisservedwiththelap,andsomewildvegetablesandbittergreensarepickedfromthegardenorfromaneighbouringgarden.LikesomanyAsiancultures,Laotiansaregenerousandverywillingtoshare,andwhenthefoodiscookedadishofitisoftensenttofriendsandneighbours.

Justbeforethemealisserved,fishsauce,limejuiceandspringonionareaddedtothestockto‘sharpenthetaste’.Therawmeatandliveraremixedwithlimejuice, ground chilli, ground rice, galangal and herbs. Steamed glutinous rice,which is kept warm in woven bamboo baskets, is served alongside.Lap alsomeans ‘luck’, so this dish is traditionally served at weddings, housewarmingceremoniesandotherimportantoccasions.Insteadofvenisononemaysubstitutefreshfish,chickenorhalf-cookedpork.Ricewineisusuallyserved.

ServingandeatingaCambodianandLaotianmealThoughdiningtablesaresometimesused,mostpeopleprefertositonamatontheflooraroundalargerattantray.Eachtrayisbigenoughtoaccommodatesixpeopleandstandsabout40–50cm(16–20in)high.Allthedishesareplacedonthetrayandthericebasketsareputbetweenthediners.Forksandspoonsmightbeused,butfingersareusedtoeatstickyrice.Atrayoffreshbananas,papayasorotherfruitisplacedononesidesothatpeoplecanhelpthemselvesafterthemeal.

UtensilsOfprimeimportanceinaCambodianorLaotiankitchen,asinmostofSoutheastAsia, is amortar and pestle. So is a sharp chopper and stout chopping board.Cookingisdoneinawok,andsteamingtakesplaceinbamboobasketsoroverearthenwarepotsofwater.

Fortherecipesthatfollow,awokplustheequipmentinaWesternkitchenwillsuffice.

YourCambodianandLaotianshelfThis is a list of spices, sauces, sambals and other flavouringswhich are oftenusedinCamdodianandLaotiancookingandgoodtohaveonhandtomaketherecipesinthischapter.

bambooshoots,tinnedblackpepper,groundcellophane(beanthread)noodleschillipowderchillies,driedredandfreshcoconutmilkandcreamcoriander,groundcornflour(cornstarch)cumin,ground

driedshrimpfennel,groundfermentedfishpaste(prahok)fishsaucegalangal,freshorbrinedgreenpeppercorns,inbrinelaos(driedgalangal)powderpalmsugar(jaggery)

peanutoilpeanuts,raworroasted(unsalted)ricewineordrysherry

sesameoil

sesameseedsshiitakemushrooms,driedsoysauce,lightanddarkturmeric,groundwaterchestnuts,tinnedwoodearfungus,dried

BayPounMouldedrice

Serves:4

500g(1lb2oz/2½cups)long-grainrice1teaspoonsalt125g(4½oz/½cup)choppedporkfat125g(4½oz/½cup)choppedleanpork125g(4½oz/½cup)choppedchickenmeat3garliccloves,finelychopped3springonions(scallions),thinlyslicedfishsaucetotaste,plusextratoserve¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperWashthericewellanddraininacolanderfor30minutes.

Puttherice,saltand1litre(34floz/4cups)waterintoalargesaucepan.Bringtotheboil,cover,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor20minutes,bywhichtimeallofthewatershouldbeabsorbed.Removethelidandallowthesteamtoescapewhilepreparingthemeats.

Put theporkfat intoawokor largeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheatandstir-fryuntilit iscrispandgoldenandthefatismelted.Addtheleanporkandchickenmeat,withthegarlicandspringonionandstir-fryfor10minutes,oruntil themeatsarewell cooked.Add the rice,whichhasbeen forked through,andtosswell tocombine, thenadd thefishsauceandpepper to taste.Removefrom the heat, press firmly into a lightly greased 1.5 litre (51 fl oz/6 cup)capacitymould,coverwith foilandkeepwarm.Turnoutandservewithextrafishsauceifdesired.

Thisrecipeisperfectforusingupleft-overwhiterice,inwhichcase,740g(1lb10oz/4cups)cookedriceisneeded.

PhuKhouaKaiNorMayLongricewithchickenandbambooshootsServes:6

500g(1lb2oz)chickenpieces1garlicclove,crushed250g(9oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles

1tablespoonpeanutoil

2tinnedbambooshoots,thinlyslicedlengthways1onion,cutintowedges

¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper125ml(4floz/½cup)chickenstockorwaterRemoveanybonesfromthechickenandcutthemeatandanyskinintosmallpieces.Placeinabowlwiththegarlicandmixtocombine.

Soak the noodles in hot water for 15 minutes, then drop into lightly saltedboilingwaterandcookfor5–8minutes,oruntiltender.Drainwellandcutintoshortlengths.

Heatthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverhighheat.Addthechickenandstir-fryuntilthefleshturnswhite.Pushtoonesideofthewok,add the bamboo shoots and onion, separated into layers, and stir-fry for 1minute, then tosswith thechicken tocombine.Addthefishsauce,pepperandstock,andstir-fryfor2minuteslonger, tossingtomixwiththesauce.Addthenoodlesandstirtocombine.Servehotwithrice.

KangHedSayHomPomMushroomsoupwithcorianderServes:8

20g(¾oz)butterorghee1tablespoonvegetableoil1smallwhiteonion,finelychopped500g(1lb2oz)freshbuttonorfieldmushrooms,finelychopped1teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoongroundcumin

1teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper3chickenstock(bouillon)cubes(optional)875ml(29½floz/3½cups)milkorcoconutmilk

3teaspoonscornflour(cornstarch)2tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnishHeatthebutterandoilinalargesaucepanoverlowheat.Addtheonionandcookuntilsoftened.Addthemushrooms,groundcorianderandcuminandcontinuetostir-fryforafewminutes.Addthesaltandpepper,thencover,reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor10minutes,stirringoccasionally.Add625ml(21floz/2½cups)hotwaterandthestockcubes,ifusing,andbringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor10minutes.Addthemilkandbringbacktotheboiloncemore,stirringoccasionally.Removefromtheheat.

Inabowl,combinethecornflourand1tablespooncoldwatertomakeasmoothpaste.Addtothesoupandstir tocombine.Returntotheheatandbringtotheboil, stirring constantly until the soup thickens. Serve immediately, garnishedwithcoriander.

If not using stock cubes, adjust the seasoning by adding salt to taste beforeserving.

KangKungMelonanddriedshrimpsoup

Serves:6

25g(1oz/½cup)driedshrimp

500g(1lb2oz)wintermelon(gourd)orcucumbers2litres(68floz/8cups)chickenstock1–2tablespoonsfishsauce,ortotaste

6thinslicesfreshginger

2tablespoonsChinesericewineordrysherryPutthedriedshrimpand250ml(8½floz/1cup)waterintoabowlandleavetosoakovernight.Drain.

Soak themushrooms in hotwater for 20–30minutes.Drainwell, cut off anddiscardthestemsandthinlyslicethecaps.

Peelthemelonandscoopouttheseedsandmembrane.Ifusingcucumber,peelandremovetheseeds.Cutthefleshintobite-sizedpieces.

Put the stock, fish sauce,ginger,mushroomanddried shrimp intoa saucepan,bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerforatleast30minutes.Discardthegingerslices.Addthemelonorcucumberandsimmerforafurther5minutes.Servehot.

KuayNamuanBananascookedincoconutmilkServes:66–8largeripebananas500ml(17floz/2cups)thickcoconutmilk

2tablespoonssugar

Peelandcuteachbananainto3or4even-sizedpieces.

Putthecoconutmilkandsugarinasaucepanoverlowheat.Bringtoasimmerandstiruntil thickandcreamy.Add thebananasandcontinue tosimmerforafurther5minutes,oruntilthebananasaresoftbutnotmushy.Servewarmasadessert.

KangSomPaLaotianfishsoup

Serves:4–6

500g(1lb2oz)skinless,bonelessfreshwaterfishfillets1stemlemongrass,whitepartonly,bruised,or2stripslemonzest½teaspoonsalt,plusextratotaste2tablespoonsfishsauce,plusextratotaste

2tomatoes,quartered

4springonions(scallions),thinlysliced1tablespoonchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaveslemonjuicetotaste

Wipe the fish with damp paper towel. Cut the fish into serving portions (seepreparingwholefish).

Put1litre(34floz/4cups)waterintoasaucepanwiththelemongrassandsaltandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor10minutes.Addthefishandfishsauceandbringbacktotheboil.Addthetomato,reducetheheatandsimmerfor10minutes.Removefromtheheat,discardthelemongrassandstirinthespringonion,corianderandlemonjuice.Addmorefishsauceorsalttotasteifneeded.Servehot.

NoeungSvayGreenmangosalad

It ishard to conveyhowgreenamangoneeds tobe for this salad,but I havenevercomeacrossone thatwas toogreen–provided it is fullygrown.Ontheotherhand, I haveboughtmangoes that appearedgreen and felt firm (even inPhnom Penh markets) but which, on cutting, revealed flesh that was alreadysweet,orangeandupongratingturnedsoftandmushy.Chooseafruit thatyouthinkistoohardandallwillbewell.InCambodia,aspecialwavy-edgedpeeleryou can find in themarkets does an excellent job of grating greenmango. Ifthesearenotavailable,grateonthecoarsesideofyourcheesegrater.

Serves:4–6

500g(1lb2oz)leanbonelessskinlesschickenthighsorporkloin1garlicclove,crushedwith½teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsgratedpalmsugar(jaggery)

2redAsianshallots,thinlyslicedjuiceof1lime,plusextratotaste25g(1oz/½cup)driedshrimp(optional)1greenmango,peeledandcoarselygrated1carrot,finelygrated

50g(1¾oz/1cup)wholefreshbasilleaves200g(7oz/1¼cups)roastedpeanuts,coarselychoppedGrill(broil)orbarbecuethechickenorporkloinfor5minutesoneachside,oruntiljustcookedthrough.Coverwithfoilandallowtorest.Whencold,slicethinly.

Inalargebowl,combinethegarlic,palmsugar,fishsauce,shallots, limejuiceand thedried shrimp.Add thechickenand tossgently tocoat.Add thegratedmangoandcarrotand tosswell,adjusting the tastewithextra lime juice if themangoisnottartenough.Garnishwiththebasilandroastedpeanutstoserve.

KhaoPounLongricesoup

Serves:4–6

100g(3½oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles125g(4½oz)minced(ground)pork50g(1¾oz/⅓cup)finelychoppedsmokedham

1tablespoonchoppedwaterchestnuts

½teaspooncornflour(cornstarch)

2teaspoonslightsoysauce

1.25litres(42floz/5cups)boilingwaterorhotchickenstock½teaspoonsalt1teaspoonfinelychoppedspringonion(scallion)Soakthenoodlesincoldwaterfor30minutes.Drainandcutinto15cm(6in)lengths.

Inabowl,mixtogetherthepork,ham,waterchestnuts,cornflourandsoysauceuntilwellcombined.Takeportionsofthemixtureatatimeandshapeintosmallballs.

Putthenoodlesinasaucepanwiththeboilingwaterandsaltandsimmerfor20minutes.Addtheballstothesoup,bringbacktotheboil,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor10minuteswithoutstirring.Addthespringonionandserve.

SamlorChroukPorksoup

Serves:4

500g(1lb2oz)porkchops,bonesreservedforstockandmeatfinelychopped1teaspoonsalt

1staranise

wholeblackpeppercorns

1leek,whitepartonly,or1onion1garlicclove

1tablespoonoil

5garliccloves,finelychopped1tablespoonfishsauce1tablespoonlemonjuice2teaspoonssugar

1tablespoonfinelyshreddedyoungginger

2tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesTomakethestock,puttheporkbonesintoalargesaucepanwithenoughwatertocover.Addthesalt,staranise,peppercorns,leekandgarliccloveandbringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerforatleast30minutes.Strainandreserve1.25litres(42floz/5cups)stock.

Heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanovermediumheat.Addthefinelychoppedgarlicandcookuntilsoft.Addtheporkandstir-fryfor1minute,thenaddthestock,fishsauce, lemonjuice,sugarandginger.Coverandsimmerfor30minutes,oruntiltheporkiscooked.Sprinklewithcoriander.Servehot.

KdarmChhaMrechKchayKepcrabwithfreshKampotpeppercornsIt’shardtoimagineamoredecadentwaytospendalazyJanuaryafternooninKepthansittinginarestaurantperchedoverthebayonstilts,thegentlelappingofwavesbelowprovidingthesoundtrackforamemorableleisurelylunch.Ourtablewasagainsttherailingthatseparatestherestaurantfromthefishermenatwork;someonboatsmendingnets,otherswadingintotheshallowstoemptyandre-setcrabpots.Allthis,whilesippingonyoungcoconutjuiceandcajolingeverylastmorselofsucculentfleshfromfreshlycaughtandcookedblueswimmerslacedwithfresh,bitey,greenKampotpeppercorns.Nowthat’swhatIcallfinger-lickinggood.

serves:6

1kg(2lb3oz)raworcookedblueswimmercrabs(seeNote)6drupesoffreshgreenpeppercorns(seenote)or2tablespoonsgreenpeppercornsinbrine,drained2tablespoonspeanutorvegetableoil

1redcapsicum(bellpepper),deseededandsliced5garliccloves,finelychopped10springonions(scallions),thinlysliced

1tablespoondarksoysauce

1tablespoonoystersauce2teaspoonsgratedpalmsugar(jaggery)2teaspoonsfishsauce1teaspooncornflour(cornstarch)

Remove the large shells from the cooked crabs and discard the fibrous tissueundertheshell.Divideeachcrabinto4portions,breakingeachbodyinhalfandseparating the claws from the body, leaving the legs attached.Drain on papertowel.

Ifusinggreenpeppercornsinbrine,rinseandbruisegently.If thefreshdrupesareverybig,breakthemintosmallerbunches.

Tomakethesauce,mixtogetherthesoysauce,oystersauceandpalmsugarinabowl, stirring until dissolved. Add the fish sauce, and 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup)waterandstirwell,thensetaside.

Topreparetherawcrab,heathalfoftheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverhighheat.Addthecapsicumandstir-fryfor2minutes,oruntilsoftenedslightly,thenremovetoaplate.

Heattheremainingoilinthewokandcookthecraboverhighheatforabout3minutes,oruntil it turnsbright red.Add thegarlicandgreenpeppercornsandcook for a few seconds, then reduce the heat to medium and add the sauce.Coverandcookfor5minutes.(Ifusingcookedcrab,justheatthroughfor2–3minutes.)Removethecrabtoaplateandsetaside.

Inabowl,combinethecornflourand1tablespooncoldwatertomakeasmoothpaste.Addtothesauceinthewokandstirwhileitboilsandthickens.Returnthecrabtothewok,addthespringonionandthecapsicumandtosstocoat.

To serve, arrange the crab on a large serving plate and serve hot with fingerbowlsandshellplates.Whitericeisagoodfoilforthesauceandtheheatofthepeppercorns.

AlthoughKepcrabtraditionallyusesblueswimmercrabs, forwhichthebeachtown is famous, it will be equally delicious using other crab varieties. Greenpeppercornsaresold,bottledinbrine,inAsiangrocerystores.Usethemonthedrupes,orstems,ifpossible.

PaKhingSteamedfishwithyounggingerServes:4

750g(1lb11oz)skinless,boneless,firmwhitefishfillets125g(4½oz)freshyounggingerjuiceof1lemon,strained

1tablespoonsesameoil

6garliccloves,thinlysliced3tablespoonslightlytoastedsesameseeds

2tablespoonsdarksoysauce

four15cm(6in)squaresbananaleaffour15cm(6in)squaresfoilWipethefishwithdamppapertowel.Cutthefishintoservingportions(seepreparingwholefish).

Very young ginger is thin-skinned and will not need peeling. The translucentlayers of skin will come away easily if scraped with a paring knife. Cut theginger into paper-thin slices, then into the finest shreds possible. The effectshouldbethread-likeslivers.

Put thegingerand lemon juice inabowlwith the fish, tossing tocoatandsetasidetomarinate.

Heat thepeanut and sesameoils in a small fryingpanover lowheat.Add thegarlicandcookuntilpalegolden.Pour theoilandgarlicover theginger, thenadd the sesame seedsand soyand stir to combine.Rubover the fish fillets tocoat.

Placeafishfilletontoeachbananaleafandwraptoenclose,thensteamthefishinabasketoverawokofsimmeringwaterfor15minutes,oruntilcooked.

SousiPaFishwithcoconutcream

Serves:4

500g(1lb2oz)skinless,boneless,firmwhitefishfillets2largedriedredchillies,plus6smalldriedredchilliesextra

1tablespoonoil

15garliccloves

3makrut(kaffirlime)leaves1slicefreshgalangalor1teaspoonlaos(driedgalangal)powder2stemslemongrass,whitepartonly,thinlysliced250ml(8½floz/1cup)thickcoconutmilk

750ml(25½floz/3cups)thincoconutmilk1tablespoonfishsauce2tablespoonschoppedroastedpeanuts

4sprigsoffreshbasil

Wipe thefishwithdamppaper towel.Cut thefish into4servingportions(seepreparingwholefish).

Removethestalksandseedsfromthelargedriedchilliesandsoakinhotwaterfor10minutes.

Heat theoil inawokorsmallheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addthesmalldriedchilliesandfryuntilpuffedanddark.Setaside.

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the large chillies, garlic, makrut leaves,galangalandlemongrasstoapaste.Afoodprocessorcanbeused,butyoumayneedtoadd1tablespoonthickcoconutmilktokeepthemixtureincontactwiththeblades.

Heatthethickcoconutmilkinasaucepanoverlowheatfor10–15minutes,oruntil the oil separates. Add the chilli mixture and simmer, stirring constantly.Addthefishfilletsandturntheminthemixture,thenaddthethincoconutmilkandfishsauceandsimmerforafurther10minutes.Addthepeanutsjustbeforeserving.Garnishwiththebasilandthesmalldeep-friedchillies.

NoeungBongkorngLobstersalad

Serves:6

250g(9oz)cookedlobstertail,reservingtheheadandshell250g(9oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles1–2piecesdriedwoodearfungus2tablespoonspeanutoil

1tablespoondriedgarlicflakes

125g(4½oz)minced(ground)pork

3tablespoonspoundeddriedshrimp

60ml(2floz/¼cup)fishsauce55g(2oz/¼cup)sugar80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)limejuice225g(8oz/3cups)shreddedChinesecabbage(wombok)3cucumbers,seedsremovedandsliced50g(1¾oz/⅓cup)finelychoppedtoastedpeanuts30g(1oz/⅓cup)desiccated(shredded)coconut,toastedsaladgreenstoserve

3mandarinsororanges,segmented,toserve3pickledgarlics,thinlysliced,toserveVietnamesemintsprigstoserveRemovethelobstertail,slittheunderside,removethemeatinonepiece,deveinandcutintomedallions.Shredtheremainingmeatfromtheheadintosmallpieces,reservingtheshellforgarnish.

Boilthenoodlesfor10minutes.Drainandcutintoshortlengths.Soakthewoodear fungus inhotwater for20minutes.Drainandfinelyshred,discardinganywoodyparts.

Heatthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverlowheat.Frythe dried garlic flakes until pale golden, remove immediatelywith a skimmeranddrainonpapertowel.

Increasetheheattohigh,addtheporktothepanandstir-fryuntilbrown.Addthedriedshrimp,1tablespooneachofthefishsauceandsugarandfryuntildry.Removetoaplateandcool.

Combinetheremainingfishsauce,sugarandlimejuice,stirringuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Addtheremainingingredientsandtosswell.Arrangeonaplatterlinedwith thesaladgreens.Place the lobstermeaton topandgarnishwith theshell,mandarin,pickledgarlicandmint.Serveatroomtemperature.

TreiChormHoySteamedwholefish

Serves:4

750g(1lb11oz)wholesnapperorotherwhitefish2tablespoonslightsoysauce2tablespoonspeanutoil2teaspoonssesameoil

1springonion(scallion),finelychoppedCleanandscalethefish,leavingtheheadon.Wipeinsidethefishcavitywithdamppapertowelthathasfirstbeendippedincoarsesalt.Trimanylongspinesorfinsneatly.

Steamthefishoverboilingwaterfor15minutes,oruntilcookedthrough.

Meanwhile, heat the peanut oil in a small saucepan over low heat. Add theginger and spring onion and cook until soft but not brown.Remove from theheat,addthesesameoilandsoysauceandstirtocombine.

Spoonthesauceoverthefishonalargeservingdishandserveimmediately.

TreiCheanNoeungSpeiDeep-friedfishwithvegetablesServes:4–6

750g(1lb11oz)skinless,boneless,firmwhitefishfillets125ml(4floz/½cup)oil1tablespooneggwhite

1teaspoonsalt

1tablespooncornflour(cornstarch),plus1teaspoonextra1garlicclove,crushed½teaspoonfinelygratedfreshginger150g(5½oz/2cups)slicedChinesecabbage(wombok)6springonions(scallions),cutinto5cm(2in)lengths

Wipethefishwithdamppaper towel.Cut thefish into4or6servingportions(seepreparingwholefish).

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Dipthefishintheeggwhiteandtheninthecombinedsaltandcornflour,shakingoffanyexcess.Whentheoilishot,deep-frythefish,inbatches,for1–2minutes,orjustlongenoughtocookitthrough–thetimewillvarydependingonthethicknessofthefish.Drainonpapertowelandkeepwarm.

Pouroffallbut1tablespoonoftheoil,addthegarlic,gingerandcabbageandstir-fry for 1minute.Add the springonion and stir-fry for a further 1minute.Addthefishsauceand125ml(4floz/½cup)waterandbringtotheboil.

In a small bowl, combine the extra cornflourwith 1 tablespoon coldwater tomakeasmoothpaste.Addtothewokandstiruntilthesauceboilsandthickens.Arrangeinadishwiththefishpiecesontopandserveimmediatelywithriceornoodles.

AmokTreiYellowfishcurry

This speciality is traditionallymade with fish, although you can use chicken.Steamed in a coconut shell or banana leaf basket, this is one of Cambodia’ssignaturedishes.Servewithrice.

Serves:4

500g(1lb2oz)skinless,boneless,firmwhitefishfillets2stemslemongrass,whitepartonly,finelychopped2teaspoonsfinelychoppedfreshgalangal2garliccloves,finelychopped3redAsianshallots,finelychopped2makrut(kaffirlime)leaves,sliced,plusextratogarnish1tablespoonchillipaste(optional)1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonfermentedfishpaste(prahok)ordriedshrimppaste1tablespoonfishsauce

1tablespoonpalmsugar(jaggery)½teaspoonsalt200ml(7floz)thickcoconutmilk1egg150g(5½oz/3cups)babyEnglishspinachleaves,slicedbananaleavesforcookingthinlyslicedchillitogarnishWipethefishwithdamppapertowel.Cutthefishintosmallbite-sizedpieces.

Put the lemongrass,galangal,garlic, shallotsandoneof the lime leaves intoafood processor with the chilli paste, if using, turmeric, fish paste, fish sauce,palm sugar and salt. Add 1 tablespoon of the coconut milk to help keep themixturemovingovertheblades.Placethecurrypasteinabowlandstirintheegg,mostofthecoconutmilkandthespinach,thenstirthroughthefish.

Steam in banana leaf bowls, coconut shells or small dishes linedwith bananaleaf. Garnish with the remaining coconut milk, finely shredded lime leaf andextrachilli.

If you prefer, omit the egg and simmer the spice mixture with the remaining

ingredientsinasaucepanforafragrantyellowcurry.

KoyPaRawfishsalad

Isn’t it fascinating that variations on this theme can be found in so manycountries – from the Philippines to Polynesian Islands to Latin Americancountries.Iftheideaofeatingrawfishmakesyoucringe,relax.Thelemonjuiceinthemarinadechangesthetextureofthefish.Thereyougo–onestepclosertosashimi.Andwhatdelightsawaityouthere!

Serves:4–6

500g(1lb2oz)skinless,boneless,firmwhitefishfillets125ml(4floz/½cup)lemonjuice6tendergreenbeans,thinlysliced4springonions(scallions),thinlysliced2garliccloves,crushed1freshredchilli,deseededandsliced1tablespoonfishsaucelettuceleavestoservefreshmintleavestoservefreshcoriander(cilantro)leavestoserveWipethefishwithdamppapertowel.Cutthefishintoverysmallpieces.Putthefishintoaglassorearthenwarebowlandpourthelemonjuiceoverthetop,tossingtocoat.Setasidetomarinatefor3hours,orovernightintherefrigerator.

Combinethefishwithallofthebeans,springonion,garlic,chilliandfishsauce.Toserve,putsomeofthefishmixtureinthecentreofalettuceleaf,addasprigofmintorafewcorianderleaves.Foldoverthelettuceleavesandeat.

Ifyoufindthetasteofthelemonjuicetoosharp,addasplashofcoconutmilktomellowtheflavour.

KariBonkongTrasakPrawnandsweetgourdcurryServes:6

1sweetgourd,tendermarrow(summersquash)or2greencucumbers

5garliccloves

1smallonion,roughlychopped

2teaspoonsfinelychoppedfreshginger

½teaspoonchillipowder½teaspoongroundfennel

2teaspoonsgroundcoriander

¼teaspoongroundturmeric80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)oil500g(1lb2oz)largerawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined500ml(17floz/2cups)coconutmilk

1stemlemongrass,bruised

2tablespoonslemonjuice

1teaspoonsugar(optional)

Peel thegourd,marroworcucumbers,cut inhalves lengthways, scoopout theseeds and cut into thick slices. Put the garlic, onion and ginger into a food

processorandprocesstoapurée.Mixinthechillipowder,fennel,corianderandturmeric.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the onionmixtureoverlowheatfor20minutes,oruntiltheoilstartstoshowaroundtheedgesandthemixturestartstocatchonthebaseofthepan.Addtheprawnsandstir-fryfor3minutes, thenaddthecoconutmilkandbringtosimmeringpoint.Add thegourd,marroworcucumber, lemongrass, lemon juice, sugar, ifusing,andfishsauceandstirgently,simmeringforabout5minutes,oruntilthegourd,marroworcucumberistenderbutnottoosoft.Servehotwithrice.

KaiLaoLaotianchicken

Serves:6

1.5kg(3lb5oz)wholechicken1½teaspoonsalt,plus½teaspoonextra2garliccloves,crushed

1tablespoonoil

2onions,finelychopped250g(9oz)minced(ground)pork½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1freshredchilli,finelychopped1tablespoonchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaf100g(3½oz/½cup)long-grainrice250ml(8½floz/1cup)thickcoconutmilk

500ml(17floz/2cups)thincoconutmilk

Washanddrythechickenwell,thenrubitinsideandoutwiththesaltandhalfofthecrushedgarlic.

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpan.Addtheremaininggarlic,onionandporkand seasonwith theextra salt, thepepperandchilli.Cook theporkuntilbrowned,addthecoriander,riceandthickcoconutmilkandbringtoasimmer,thenreducetheheattolow,cover,andcookfor10minutes,oruntilallof the liquid has been absorbed. Remove from the heat and leave until coolenoughtohandle.

Stuffthechickenwiththeporkmixture.Putthechickenintoalargesaucepanorstockpotwiththethincoconutmilkandfishsauce,cover,andsimmerfor1hour,oruntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.Servewithglutinousrice.

SaichChroukJongKakMarinatedporkskewers

This deliciousmarinated pork is best barbecued or grilled over hot coals, buteven cooked under the grill (broiler), it is very tasty. Chicken thighs may besubstituted.

Serves:6–8

2stemslemongrass,whitepartonly,finelychopped,orfinelygratedzestof3lemons

1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshgalangal

3garliccloves,crushed3redAsianshallotsor1redonion,chopped1tablespoonfishsauce

1teaspoonchillipowder,ortotaste½teaspoonsalt

3teaspoonssugar

60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableoil2tablespoonsgratedfreshcoconutordesiccated(shredded)coconutsoakedin1tablespoonhotwater500g(1lb2oz)porkloinorscotchfillet,cutintostrips60ml(2floz/¼cup)coconutmilk

Soak24bambooskewersinwatertopreventthemfromburningduringcooking.

Putthelemongrass,galangal,garlic,shallots,fishsauce,turmeric,chillipowder,salt,sugarandvegetableoilintoafoodprocessorandprocesstomakeasmoothpaste.Alternatively,poundtogetherusingamortarandpestle.

Byhand,mixtogetherthespicepastewiththecoconutandporktothoroughlycoat the meat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours orovernight.

Thread the pork strips onto the skewers and grill or barbecue over hot coals,turningoften,untilcookedthroughandbrownedallover.ServehotwithriceandaGreenmangosalad.

KhorMrechSaichChroukCambodiancaramelisedpepperporkThemethodofmakingacaramelandthencookingthemeatinthesamepotisalsopractisedinVietnam.HereisavariationonatraditionalCambodianrecipe.

Serves:4–6

2tablespoonssugar3garliccloves,chopped2tablespoonsfishsauce1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoongratedpalmsugar(jaggery)750g(1lb11oz)porkbelly,cutintocubes2teaspoonsfinelygratedfreshginger155g(5½oz/1cup)peeledanddicedsweetpotatoorpumpkin(wintersquash)1handfulfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesandstems,choppedPutthesugarand1tablespoonwaterintoalargesaucepanorstockpotandheatuntilitstartstobubble,stirringconstantlyuntilthemixtureisagoldencolour.Immediatelyadd250ml(8½floz/1cup)water,thegarlic,fishsauce,pepperandpalmsugar,andstirwhileitcomestoaboil.Addthepork,thenreducetheheattolow,cover,andsimmerfor45minutes,oruntiltheporkistender.Addthegingerandsweetpotatoandcontinuetosimmerforafurther15minutes,oruntilthesweetpotatoistenderandmostoftheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Stirinthecorianderbriefly,thenservehotwithwhiterice.

InCambodia, this dishoften includeshardboiledquail or duck eggs. If using,mixthepeeledeggsthroughthefinisheddishtoheatthroughwiththecoriander.

MoanChuaNoeungPhsetKreamStir-friedchickenwithmushroomsServes:4–6

1.5kg(3lb5oz)wholechicken

2tablespoonsoil

4garliccloves,crushed½teaspoonfinelygratedfreshginger2tablespoonsfishsauce

2teaspoonssugar

2tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavestogarnishSoakthemushroomsinhotwaterfor20–30minutes.Drainwell,cutoffanddiscardthestemsandthinlyslicethecaps.

Jointthechickenandcutintoservingpieces.

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addthegarlicandgingerandcookforafewseconds,thenaddthechickenandstir-fryuntilthecolourchanges.Addthemushroom,fishsauce,sugarand250ml(8½floz/1 cup) water, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the chicken iscooked.Garnishwithcorianderandservewithrice.

Iwastooyoungtoremembermyfirstvisittomygrandmother’shomeinRangoon,Burma,butthesecondvisit,whichlastedayear,haslefta medley of impressions.My most vivid memories of Burma are ofglittering golden pagodas and delicious food. I recall saving mypocketmoney tobuysnacks fromthevendorswhostreamed throughthe suburban streets calling their wares. In the evenings we oftenvisitedthebazaarwherethestreetswerelinedwithfoodstallsofeverykind.

Snacks, sweets, cool drinks, complete meals – each stall specialised in oneparticularitem.WhatIlikedbestwasfreshsugarcanejuice,extractedfromcanecrushedbetween large, shiny steel rollers andpouredon to iceclinking in tallglasses.

Mymother,whowasborninMandalay,hadleftBurmaasayoungbridetoliveinSriLanka(thenCeylon),soBurmawasacountrynewandfascinatingtome.It was during this second visit that I first met Aunt Connie, my mother’syoungest sister. Shemade an impression at least as deep and lasting as thosemadebymyfavouritefoods.

The next time we met was in England, where I had been sent to finish myeducation. Happily, Connie was spending a year there and I lived with herdelightfulfamilyinabeautifulcountryhouse,oneof thehappiest timesofmylife.

BecauseshelivedformanyyearsinBurmaandcookeddeliciousBurmesefood,I asked for her help in making this chapter the best possible source of

information on Burmese food. Thanks to my wonderful aunt, ConstanceHancock,andMrsIdaHtoonPhayIhaveaddedtotheBurmeserecipeslearnedfrom my mother and grandmother. ‘Cooking should not be a chore,’ wroteConnie. ‘The busy housewife must use her head and try to make life a littleeasierforherselfifshewantstoventureintoexoticcooking.So,inordernottospendafortuneonair-freshenerseverytimeshepreparesstrong-smellingfoods,it isuseful toknow thatonions,garlic andcurry ingredients canbecooked inlargequantitiesandstoredinjarsorinthefreezer.

‘Onecup(9oz/250g)ofcurryingredientsissufficientfora1.5kg(3lb5oz)chickenor750g(1lb11oz)ofbeef,lamborpork.Asfishandmeatcurriesaremade from the samebasic curry ingredients there is no problem.To the basicingredients I add,as the recipe requires,other spicesorherbswhichmake thedishtastethewayitshould.’

Familyandfriendswhoturnedupunexpectedlywouldbeamazedthatshecouldstartfromscratchandproduceawholemealinlessthananhour.Thedishthattook longest to cook would be started first and so on. She’d always have asupply of crisp fried brown onions and garlic, pounded dried prawns andbalachaung,aswellashotmangopicklesandchutneys.Herdeepfreezerwouldhold treasures like chopped coriander (cilantro) leaves and green and redcapsicums (bell peppers) cut intopieces, so she could takeout onlywhatwasrequired.

ServingandeatingaBurmesemealThecornerstoneofaBurmesemealis,aselsewhereinAsia,adishofperfectlycooked,steaminghot,fluffyrice.Thisisbroughttothetablejustbeforeorafterguestsareseatedsothatitwillbehot.Thesouptooisalwayspipinghot,butfortherest,thedishesareplacedonthetablebeforehandandmanyoftheaccompanimentsareservedatroomtemperature.A table set for a meal is a colourful sight. The various dishes served shouldcomplementorcontrast.Plainsoupswithrich,oilycurries;strongersoupswith

mild dishes. There should always be one chilli condiment; one raw salad ofleaves, fruit or vegetables; one soup; one, two or three curries of meat, fish,prawns (shrimp) or eggs; perhaps a bowl of lentils, a homemade pickle, andalmost always that Burmese favourite, balachaung. There is no set rule as towhichdishesshouldbeservedtogether,soanunlimitednumberofcombinationsispossible.Thetableissetwithplatesfortherice,bowlsandporcelainspoonsforsoup.ItiscustomarytoeataBurmesemealwiththefingers,butnowadaysspoons and forks are also used. There are some Burmesemeals, though, thatmustbeeatenwiththefingers–readaboutlethokeonHtaminLethoke.Inthiscaseabowlofhotwater,soapanda towelareplacedonaside tableforhandwashingbeforeoneisseated.

Whenonedoesbegin,itispolitetostartwithsmallportions.Nottoomuchricefirst,thenonetinyhelpingfromoneofthedishestobemixedwiththericeandtasted, thensomethingfromanotherdish,andsoon.Whenall thedisheshavebeensampled,thedecisionismadewhethertosticktooneparticulardishortocombine various flavours. Spoonfuls of soup are taken betweenmouthfuls ofriceandcurries.After themeal thehandsarewashedagain.Fruitoracoolingsweetandcupsofsteaminghotteafollow.

TherearecertainBurmesemealswhereaone-dishspecialityisfeatured,suchasMoh hin gha, kaukswe (Panthe Kaukswe and Kaukswe Kyaw) or Htaminlethoke.These aredo-it-yourself specialswhere riceor noodles is servedwithflavoursomeaccompanimentsandyoucreateyourownmasterpiece.Whenyousit down to this kind of meal there is no guarantee that your food will tasteexactlylikethenextperson’s.Youwillhelpyourselffromthesamedishes,butfrom there on it becomes an improvisation. Do you want a gently seasonedmeal?Orone sohot itbrings tears toyoureyes?Therewillbechopped freshcoriander(cilantro)leaves,garlicslicesfriedcrispandgolden,piquanttamarindwater,hotchillipowderorfriedwholechillies,brilliantredchillioil,richbrownfried onions, sliced spring onions (scallions), nutty-flavoured roasted besan(chickpea flour). Depending on the proportions in which you add these youcreateatastesensationmadetoorder–justasyoulikeit.Ifyoufeelyouneedhelp,itisconsideredquitethethingtodotoasksomeoneifyoucantastetheirmeal–oraskthemtotasteyoursandadviseonwhatisneeded,oreventomixyourportionforyou…alldelightfullyinformal.

BurmesecurriesTheingredientsbasictoallBurmesecurriesnevervary–onion,garlic,ginger,chilli and turmeric. The chilli can be used in powder form, or whole driedchilliescanbegroundwiththeotheringredients,butchilliisusedsparinglyandmaybeomitted.Tomakeacurryforfourpeopleusing750g(1lb11oz)meat,fishorpoultry,hereisawell-balancedmixture:1largeonion,2–3garliccloves,1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger, ½ teaspoon ground turmeric and ¼teaspoonchillipowder,using2–3tablespoonsoilforfrying.

Animalfatofanysort isneverused.Lightsesameoil isbestforcapturingthetrueBurmeseflavour. Ifcorn,peanut,sunflowerorothervegetableoil isused,add a small amount of Chinese-style dark sesame oil for flavour in theproportionsof1teaspoonsesameoilto1tablespoonvegetableoil.

There is only one way to cook these basic ingredients in order to achieve amellow flavour in which no single ingredient predominates. Grind the onion,garlicandgingertoapurée.IntheabsenceoftheAsiangrindingstone, thisisbestdoneinafoodprocessor,firstchoppingtheingredientsroughly.Itwillbenecessarytostopthemotorfrequentlyandscrapedownthesides.Whenpuréed,smoothlymixintheturmericandchillipowder.

Heattheoilinasaucepanovermediumheat.Whentheoilishot,addthegroundingredients, then reduce the heat and stirwell to combine.Cover the pan andsimmer themixture, lifting the lid frequently tostirandscrape thebaseof thepanwith awooden spoon. This initial frying takes at least 15minutes. If themixturecookstoorapidlyandbeginstostickbeforethesmellhasmellowedandtheonionsbecometranslucent,addasmallquantityofwaterfromtimetotimeand stir well. When the water content of the onion has evaporated and theingredients turnarichred-browncolourwithoilshowingaroundtheedge, thefirststageofcooking,andthemostimportantone,iscomplete.

ThereisaBurmesetermtodescribethis–byan,meaning‘oilreturned’,thatis,withthewatercompletelyevaporatedandtheoilreturnedtojustoil.Thebasicingredientswillnothavetherequiredflavourunlessthisprocedureisfollowed.Themeat, fishorvegetablesaddedwill release theirownjuiceswhilecookingslowlyinthepanwiththelidon.Aroastingchickenwillbesufficientlycookedby the time itsown juiceshaveevaporated.Boiling fowls,duck, somecutsof

beef and pork may need a little water added from time to time as cookingcontinuesuntiltheyaretender.Fishandprawns(shrimp)cookveryquicklybutsome types may need a little more fish stock, water or coconut milk added.Vegetables seldom require any added liquid, but if awetter result is preferredaddwaterorcoconutmilk.

BurmesesweetsBurmesemealsdonotincludedesserts,butfreshfruitsinseasonareservedafterameal.Betweenmeals, however, sweets are eaten to satisfy a sweet tooth, ortakenintheformofacoolingdrinksuchasMoh-let-saung.Thenthereisdurianpreserve (just as strong smelling as the fruit and arousing asmuch passionatediscussion),mangopreserve,wildplumscookedinpalmsugar(jaggery)treacleandpalmsugartoffee.

Agar-agar is the base of many jelly preparations. They are much firmer thanjellies served inWestern countries. There are also a number of cakes, fritters,doughnuts and steamed sponges made from finely ground rice flour andsweetenedwithpalmsugar.Theymaybeservedwithpalmsugartreacle,freshlygratedcoconut,toastedsesameseedsandquiteoftenapinchofsalt.Thecontrastissurprisinglypleasant.UnlikeIndiansweetmeats,Burmesespecialitiesareonlyslightlysweet.

MostBurmesesweets,snacksanddrinksarepreparedandsoldbyprofessionalsweetmakers,andeachsweetmakerspecialisesinonlyonevariety.Theyarenotmadeathome,fortheyrequirespecialequipmentandhoursofpreparation.Theverymentionofmohseinboung (steamedspongecake) is enough tomakeanexpatriateBurmesegomisty eyed.This is abeautiful, light-textured rice flourspongesteamedintallmouldsintwolayersofwhiteandbrown–thebrowngetsits colour frompalm sugar.Hawked through the streets at breakfast time, it iseaten off banana leaves with a sprinkle of grated coconut and a mixture ofcrushed toasted sesame seeds and salt – not very sweet or rich, but verysatisfying.

UtensilsLikeotherAsiankitchens, thatofaBurmesehousehold issimplyequipped.Abrick fireplace for charcoal or wood fires, or a portable charcoal brazier; aselectionofpots andpans, nothing that cannotbe replacedby aWestern-styleutensilexceptthedare-oh,arounded,deeppaninheavyironwithtwohandles,similar to the Chinese wok; the large flat grinding stone, a stone mortar andpestleandtheusualcolander,sieve,woodenandbamboospatulas,skewersandladles,sharpchoppersandknives.Everyrecipeinthischaptercanbepreparedwithoutanyspecialequipmentexcept,perhaps,awok.As Ihavesaid inotherchapters, the cook’s best friend when handling ingredients that would, in thecountryoforigin,bepreparedonthegrindingstone,isapowerfulandefficientfoodprocessororelectricblender.

YourBurmeseshelfThisisalistofspices,sauces,sambalsandotherflavouringsthatareoftenusedin Burmese cooking and good to have on hand to make the recipes in thischapter.

besan(chickpeaflour)cardamom,groundcellophane(beanthread)noodleschillipowdercloves,groundcoconut,desiccated(shredded)coconutmilk

cornoilorpeanutoilcumin,grounddriedprawn(shrimp)powderdriedseaweed(kyaukpwint)(seenote)driedshrimp

driedshrimppaste

eggnoodles

fishsaucepaprika,groundricevermicelli(rice-stick)noodlesroastedchickpeas(garbanzobeans)(seenote)sesameoil

sesameseedsshiitakemushrooms,driedsoysauce,lightanddarkturmeric,groundwoodearfungus,dried

RoastedchickpeasareavailablefromMediterraneanorMiddleEasterngrocerystores.Ifyoucan’tfindtheBurmesedriedseaweed(kyaukpwint),substitutewiththeJapanesevariety;knownashijiki.

HtaminRice

Alwaysuselong-grainriceforBurmesemeals.Allow200g(7oz/1cup)ricefor2or3people.Forevery200goflong-grainriceallow500ml(17floz/2cups)water. For each cup of rice additional to the first cup, allow 375ml (12½ floz/1½cups)water.

200g(7oz/1cup)rice//500ml(17floz/2cups)water400g(14oz/2cups)rice//875ml(291/2floz/3½cups)water600g(1lb5oz/3cups)rice//1.25litres(42floz/5cups)waterWashthericewellanddraininacolanderfor30minutes.Putthericeandwaterintoasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,giveitagoodstir,thencoverandcookfor20minutes,withoutliftingthelidorstirring,untilthericeistenderandalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.

SeeHtaminOilrice

Serves:4–6

400g(14oz/2cups)glutinousrice1½teaspoonsgroundturmeric3largeonions,thinlysliced125ml(4floz/½cup)oil

2teaspoonssalt

80g(2¾oz/½cup)lightlytoastedsesameseeds,bruisedandmixedwithsaltWashthericewellanddrainaincolanderfor30minutes.Sprinkletheturmericovertheonioninabowlandtosslightly.

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook untilbrown.Removetwo-thirdsoftheonionandsetaside.

Add the rice to thepanandstirwell tocoat, thenadd1 litre (34floz/4cups)waterandsaltandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,coverandsimmerfor20minutes,oruntilthericeistenderandthewaterisabsorbed.Somepeoplelikeacruston the rice– leave the riceover lowheat for5–10minutes longeruntil a slight crackling sound is heard. Serve garnished with fried onion,accompaniedbythesesameseeds.Servebyitself,notwithcurries.

HtaminLethokeRicemixedwithfingers

The literal translation of the Burmese name suggests what to expect. Eachpersonhelpsthemselftooneormoreofthemainingredientsandsomeofeachoftheaccompaniments.Theonlywaytoreallyenjoythistypeoffoodistouseone’sfingerstomixandeatit.Itisafunthing,andalthoughtheingredientsarenumerous,verylittlecookingisinvolved.Ifastockofthebasicsiskeptinthepantry,a‘lethoke’mealcanbeservedinnexttonotime.

Serves:6

200g(7oz/1cup)long-grainrice2freshredchilliesor1teaspoonchillipowder2tablespoonsoil

125g(4½oz)ricevermicelli(rice-stick)noodles60g(2oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles125g(4½oz)fineeggnoodles

3largepotatoes,boiled,peeledandsliced60g(2oz)driedseaweed(kyaukpwint)(optional),soakedinboilingwaterfor10minutes,thendrained245g(8½oz/2¾cups)freshbeansprouts,trimmedandblanched

Accompaniments

250ml(8½floz/1cup)oil3eggs,lightlybeaten10onions,thinlysliced20garliccloves,thinlysliced125ml(4floz/½cup)tamarindpulp250g(9oz/1cup)driedprawn(shrimp)powder220g(8oz/1cup)roastedgroundchickpeas(garbanzobeans)(seenote)2tablespoonschillipowder

125ml(4floz/½cup)fishsauceWashthericewellanddraininacolanderfor30minutes.Putthericeand500ml(17floz/2cups)waterintoasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,giveitagoodstir,thencoverandcookfor20minutes,withoutliftingthelidorstirring,untilthericeistenderandalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed–itshouldbedryandfluffy.

Pound the chillies to a paste, then place in a frying pan with the oil and 2tablespoonswaterandcookoverlowheat.Whenthechillismellscooked,mixwiththeboiledriceandsetaside.

Boil the rice vermicelli noodles for 2 minutes, or until tender. Drain and setaside.Cookthecellophanenoodlesinasaucepanofboilingwateruntil tender,thendrain and set aside.Cook the eggnoodles in a saucepanofboilingwateruntiljusttender.Drainandrefreshimmediatelyincoldwatersothatthenoodlesdonotsticktogether.

All themainingredientsforlethokeareservedcold.Arrangetherice,noodles,potato,seaweed, ifusing,andbeansproutsseparatelyonaservingplatter.Theaccompanimentsintheirindividualbowlsareplacedonthetable.

Tomaketheaccompaniments,heat1tablespoonoftheoilinafryingpanovermedium heat. Pour in half of the egg tomake an omelette, then remove to aplate.Repeatwiththeremainingegg.Whencool,sliceintofinestrips.

Puthalfoftheonioninabowlandwashwellincoldwater,thendrainwellandplaceinaservingdish.

Heattheremainingoil inafryingpanoverlowheat.Addtheremainingonionand half of the garlic and cook in the oil until light brown, then transfer to aservingbowl.Theremaininggarliccanbeplacedintoasmallbowlandservedrawforintrepidgarliceaters.

Soakthetamarindpulpin375ml(12½floz/1½cups)hotwaterfor10minutes.Squeeze todissolve thepulp in thewater, thenstrain,discarding theseedsandfibre.Placeinaservingdish.

Putthedriedprawnpowder,groundchickpeas,chillipowderandfishsauceintoseparateservingdishesandserve.

UseroastedchickpeasfromMiddleEasterngrocerystores,groundtoapowder.

OhnHtaminCoconutrice

Serves:6

500g(1lb2oz/2½cups)long-grainrice1.25litres(42floz/5cups)thincoconutmilk

2½teaspoonssaltWashthericewellanddraininacolanderfor30minutes.Puttherice,coconutmilkandsaltintoasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,giveitagoodstir,thencoverandcookfor20minutes,withoutliftingthelidorstirring.Ifallthecoconutmilkisnotabsorbedattheendofthistime,stirverylightlyaroundtheedgesofthepanwithafork,justtomixinthemilk,thenreplacethelidandcontinuecookingoverlowheatforafurther5–10minutes.ServehotwithanyoftheBurmesecurries,friedprawns(shrimp)orporkoil,picklesandPoundedprawnpaste.

KyazanCellophanenoodlesThemainingredientinthisdish(pronounced‘chah-zan’)iscellophane(beanthread)noodles;fine,translucentandwithnoflavouroftheirown,theyareflavouredbywhatyoueatwiththem.TheyareservedwithChickencurrywithnoodlesandappropriateaccompaniments.Serves:6–8

375g(13oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodlesBringalargesaucepanofsaltedwatertotheboil,dropinthenoodlesandcookfor20minutes.Drain.Serveinalargebowl.

Servingiseasierifthenoodlesarecutintoshorterlengthswithasharpknifeorwithkitchenscissors.

Eachpersonputssomenoodlesinabowl,ladlesthechickencurryorsomesoupover the top and adds whichever accompaniments are desired (see HtaminLethoke).

HinBurmesesoups

InBurma,alight-bodiedpipinghotsoupisservedatbothmainmealsoftheday.Itcanbeaclearmildsouporasourpepperysoup,dependingontheweatherortheotheritemsonthemenu.Thesesoupsarenotservedasafirstcourse,butforsippingthroughoutameal.

HinChoMildsoupAnyofthefollowingvegetablesmaybeusedinthisrecipe:thinlyslicedmarrow(summer squash), zucchini (courgette), pumpkin (winter squash), okra,cauliflowerflorets,cabbage,Chinesecabbage(wombok)orotherleaves.

Serves:4–6

1–1.5litres(34–51floz/4–6cups)stockorwater2onions,thinlysliced1tablespoondriedprawn(shrimp)powderor3rawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined

3wholeblackpeppercorns

¼teaspoondriedshrimppaste(optional)200–300g(7–10½oz/2–3cups)mixedvegetablesPutthestockinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboil.Addtheonion,driedprawnpowder,peppercornsanddriedshrimppaste,ifusing,andboilfor5minutes.

Addthemixedvegetablesandrawprawns, ifusing, tothepan–pumpkinandcauliflower may take about 5 minutes to cook sufficiently, but most othervegetablesshouldbedoneinabout3minutes.Addsalttotasteandservehot.

ChinHinSoursoup

Sour greens, such as tender young tamarind leaves, are traditionally used tomakethestockforthissoup(orsubstitutegreentomatoesorrhubarbstalks).Ifrhubarb stalksarebeingused,cut them into short lengthsandboil, then strainandusetheliquidcombinedwithEnglishspinachleavesorothergreenleaves.

Serves:4–6

2teaspoonssesameoilorcornoil1onion,thinlysliced

2garliccloves,crushed

¼teaspoongroundturmeric2–3green(unripe)tomatoes,chopped25g(1oz/1cup)looselypackedEnglishspinachleavesorothergreenleaves1–1.5litres(34–51floz/4–6cups)rhubarbstock,fishstockorboilingwater¼teaspoondriedshrimppasteHeattheoilinalargesaucepanoverlowheat.Addtheonion,garlicandturmeric,stirringfor30seconds.Addthetomatoandspinach,stirwell,thenaddthestockandbringtotheboil.Addthedriedshrimppaste,cover,andsimmeruntilallthevegetablesaretender.Seasonwithsalttotaste.Servewithrice.

HinGhaStrongsoup

Serves:4–6

1–1.5litres(34–51floz/4–6cups)stockorwater2onions,thinlysliced4garliccloves,finelychopped1tablespoondriedprawn(shrimp)powderor3rawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined

¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper¼teaspoondriedshrimppaste(optional)200–300g(7–10½oz/2–3cups)mixedchoppedvegetablesPutthestockinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboil.Addtheonion,garlic,driedprawnpowder,peppercorns,pepperanddriedshrimppaste,ifusing,andboilfor5minutes.

Addthemixedvegetablesandrawprawns, ifusing, tothepan–pumpkinandcauliflower may take about 5 minutes to cook sufficiently, but most othervegetablesshouldbedoneinabout3minutes.Addsalttotasteandservehot.

KyazainHinChoMildsoupwithcellophanenoodlesItisdifficulttomeasureasmallamountofcellophanenoodlesbyweightastheyaresolight,orbyvolumeastheyaresounwieldy.Ifindoubt,usea10cm(4in)bunchofthestrandswhichfitsinthecrookofyourfinger.

Serves:4

50g(1¾oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles1.25litres(42floz/5cups)chickenorporkstock1onion,thinlysliced

2garliccloves,thinlysliced6buttonmushrooms,sliced

125g(4½oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined1zucchini(courgette),thinlyslicedindiscsSoakthenoodlesinhotwaterfor20minutes,thendrainandcutintoshortlengths.

Putthestockintoalargesaucepanandbringtotheboil.Addtheonion,garlicandnoodlesandcookuntil theyareswollenandsoft.Add themushroom,soysauce, prawns and zucchini and cook until the prawns just start to turn pink.Seasonwithsaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste.Servehot.

WetCheDaukHinchoPigtrottersoup

Serves:4

1pig’strotter(frontpreferably)

3onions,finelychopped6garliccloves,finelychopped1smallhandfulfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesorceleryleaves,choppedWashandcleanthepig’strotter,thenchopinto4pieces.Ruboverthesoysaucetocoat.

Putthepig’strotterintoalargesaucepanwith1litre(34floz/4cups)waterandbringtotheboil,removinganyscumthatrisestothesurface.Whenthetrotteristender, remove itwitha slottedspoon, remove themeat,discarding thebones,andreturntothesoup.

Add theonionandgarlic to thestockandcontinuesimmering fora further10minutes.Addthecorianderleavesandseasonwithsaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste.Servehotwithrice.

MohHinGhaRicevermicelliwithfishsoupServes:6–8

ThenationaldishofBurma,mohhingha,istotheBurmesewhatonionsoupistotheFrench.

Accompaniments:springonion(scallion),thinlyslicedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaveswhiteonion,thinlyslicedroastedgroundchickpeas(garbanzobeans)crispfriednoodles,brokenintosmallpiecesfriedshallots

garliccloves,thinlyslicedanddeep-friedinoiluntilgoldenlemonwedgesdriedredchillies,deep-friedwholeinoilfor5secondschillipowder

500g(1lb2oz)strong-flavouredfishfilletsor2tinsherringsintomatosauce(ketchup)4onions,roughlychopped6garliccloves,peeled

2teaspoonsfinelychoppedfreshginger1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonchillipowder

2tablespoonssesameoil

80ml(2½floz/⅓cup)peanutoil2freshchillies,deseededandchopped1litre(34floz/4cups)thincoconutmilk

1bananaheartor250g(9oz/1cup)tinnedbambooshoots1teaspoondriedshrimppaste

1tablespoonbesan(chickpeaflour)500ml(17floz/2cups)thickcoconutmilk

2tablespoonslemonjuice

500g(1lb2oz)ricevermicelli(rice-stick)noodlesorfineeggnoodlesPutthe

fishinafryingpanwithjustenoughwatertocoverandsimmerfor5minutes.Drainandsetaside,reservingthestock.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric and chilli powder into a food processorandprocesstoapurée.

Heatthesesameandpeanutoilsinalargesaucepanandcooktheonionmixtureandchilliesoverlowheatfor20minutes,oruntiltheoilreturnsandthemixturestartstosticktothepan.Addthefishstock,thincoconutmilkandbananaheart.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmeruntilthebananaheartslicesaretender.Dissolvethedriedshrimppasteinthefishsauceandaddtothepan.Mixthebesansmoothlywithalittlecoldwaterorsomeofthethickcoconutmilkandaddtothepan,stirringconstantlyasitcomestotheboil.Simmerfor5minutes,add thefish, thickcoconutmilkand lemon juice,stirringuntilheatedthrough.Seasonwithsalttotaste.

Cookthenoodlesinasaucepanofboilingwateruntiltender.Drainandserveinalargebowlalongsidethesoup.Havesmallbowlswithaccompanimentsreadyonthetable.Noodlesareservedfirstandsoupladledoverthetop.Mohhinghamustbeservedpipinghot.

KyazanHinGhaCellophanenoodlesoupwithpepperServes:4–6

50g(1¾oz)cellophane(beanthread)noodles½smallchicken6driedshiitakemushrooms1tablespoonfishsauce

1tablespoonoil

2onions,thinlysliced6garliccloves,thinlysliced½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper3tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves3springonions(scallions),thinlyslicedchillipowdertoservelemonwedgestoserve

Soak the noodles in hot water for 20 minutes, then drain and cut into shortlengths.Jointthechicken.

Soak themushrooms in hot water for 20–30minutes, then drain, cut off anddiscardthestemsandthinlyslicethecaps.

Putthechickenpiecesintoasaucepanwiththefishsauceand2litres(68floz/8cups)water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20minutes,oruntilthechickenistender.Removefromtheheat,drainthechicken,reservingthestock.Whenthechickeniscoolenoughtohandle,discardtheskinandbonesanduseyourfingerstoshredthemeatintosmallpieces.

Heattheoilinasaucepanovermediumheat.Addtheonionandgarlicandcookuntil theonionissoft.Addthepepper,reservedstock,noodlesandmushroom.Bringtotheboil, thenreducetheheat tolowandsimmerfor10minutes.Addthe chicken and heat through, then add salt to taste. Remove from the heat,sprinklewiththecorianderleavesandspringonionandservehot,withasmallbowl of chilli powder and the lemon wedges served separately for seasoningindividualportions.

GoorakaTheeKyawjetHinChokosoupServes:4–6

2chokos(chayotes)

1tablespoonoil

1largeonion,thinlysliced2garliccloves,thinlysliced

1tablespoondriedshrimp

½teaspoondriedshrimppaste¼teaspoongroundturmericPeelthechokos,halvethemlengthwaysandcutintothinslices.

Heattheoilinalargesaucepanovermediumheat.Addtheonion,garlic,choko,dried shrimp, dried shrimp paste and turmeric and cook for a few minutes,stirringconstantly.Coverandcookoverlowheatfor10minutes,thenadd1–1.5litres(34–51floz/4–6cups)waterandsimmerfor10minutes.Seasonwithsalttotasteandservehotwithriceandcurries.

SetHintMyoHinchoTwelvevarietiessoup

Serves:6

5g(¼oz/¼cup)driedshiitakemushrooms5g(¼oz/¼cup)driedwoodearfungus

2tablespoonsoil

2onions,thinlysliced2garliccloves,thinlysliced125g(4½oz)chicken,duckorporkmeat,trimmedandthinlysliced6slicesboiledporkliver

1tablespoonsoysauce

1smallchoko(chayote)25g(1oz/¼cup)freshbeansprouts,trimmed15g(½oz/¼cup)shreddedcabbage30g(1oz/¼cup)shreddedcauliflower30g(1oz/¼cup)slicedgreenbeans

6celeryleaves

2springonions(scallions)

Soakthemushroomsinhotwaterfor20–30minutes,thendrainwell,cutoffanddiscard the stems and thinly slice the caps. Soak the wood ear fungus in hotwaterfor20minutes,thendrainandsetaside.

Heattheoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanovermediumheat.Addtheonion,garlic,meatandporkliverandstirwell.Addthesoysauce,cover,andcookfor5minutes.

Addthechoko,beansprouts,cabbage,cauliflower,beans,mushroom,woodearfungus,celeryleavesandspringonion,cover,andcookuntilthevegetablesareslightlywilted.Add1litre(34floz/4cups)water,bringtotheboilandcontinueboilingfor10minutes.Justbeforeservingaddtheunbeateneggstotherapidlyboilingsoupandstir.Seasonwithsaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotasteandservehot.

PazoonHinPrawncurrywithgravy

Serves:4

1largeonion,roughlychopped1garlicclove

½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonchillipowder1tablespoonsesameoilorcornoil1pinchofgroundcloves1pinchofgroundcardamom

1pinchofgroundfennel

1largepotato,diced2ripetomatoes,chopped125ml(4floz/½cup)thincoconutmilk500g(1lb2oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined125ml(4floz/½cup)thickcoconutmilk

1tablespoonchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves2tablespoonschoppedspringonions(scallions)Puttheonion,garlic,ginger,turmericandchillipowderintoafoodprocessorandprocesstoapurée.

Heatthesesameoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanandcooktheonionmixture over lowheat for 20minutes, or until the oil returns and themixturestartstosticktothepan.Stirinthecloves,cardamom,fennel,potatoandtomato,coverandcookfor10minutes,oruntilfragrant.Addthethincoconutmilkandgently simmer, uncovered, for a further 10minutes, then add the prawns andthickcoconutmilkandsimmer,stirringfrequentlyforabout3minutes,oruntilthe prawns are cooked. Add the coriander leaves and cook for a further 3minutes,thenremovefromtheheatandstirinthespringonion.Seasonwithsalttotaste.Servehotwithwhitericeandaccompaniments.

NgaSokeLoneHinFishkoftacurry

Mygrandmother taughtmehow tomake thisdelicious fishcurry.There isnousepretendingitisaquickandeasyrecipe,butitisthetastiestwayofservingfish. For a more delicate dish, poach the fish koftas in simmering water andserveasafishsoupwithboiledrice.

Serves:6

Fishkoftas

1kg(2lb3oz)skinless,boneless,firmwhitefishfillets,suchasjewfishorcod2½teaspoonssalt

½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1onion,finelychopped1garlicclove,crushed1½teaspoonsfinelygratedfreshginger2tablespoonslemonjuice,strained1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesordill2sliceswhitebread,soakedinhotwaterandsqueezeddry1teaspoonanchovypaste(optional)

60ml(2floz/¼cup)sesameoil3onions,finelychopped6garliccloves,finelychopped1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshginger1teaspoongroundturmeric2tomatoes,peeledandchopped1½teaspoonssalt

1–2teaspoonschillipowder(optional)1teaspoonpaprika(optional)1teaspoondriedshrimppaste2tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves2tablespoonslemonjuiceTomakethekofta,finelymince(grind)thefishfilletsinafoodprocessor,takingcaretoremovethebonesfirst.Placeinalargebowlandaddalltheremainingingredients.Useyourhandstomixtogetherthoroughlyandshapeintosmallballs,witha3cm(1¼in)diameter–youshouldmakeabout24ballsintotal.

Tomake the curry, heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepanovermediumheat.Addtheonion,garlicandgingerandcookuntilsoftandgolden.Addtheturmeric, then remove from the heat and add the tomato, salt and the chillipowder and paprika, if using. (In Burmese cooking the amount of chilli usedwouldbeenoughtogivearedcolourtothesauce,butthepaprikaissuggestedhereasasubstituteforaportionofit,withchilliusedtosuitindividualtastes.)Wrapthedriedshrimppasteinapieceoffoilandroastunderapreheatedgrill(broiler) for 5minutes, turning halfway through. Unwrap, dissolve in 375ml(12½floz/1½cups)hotwaterandaddtothepan,stirringuntilthetomatoissoftandpulpy.Ifthesaucestartstodryout,addalittlehotwater–thereshouldbeenoughsauce toalmost cover the fishkoftas.Gentlyput the fishkoftas in thesauceandsimmerovermediumheatforabout20minutes,shakingthepanfromtimetotime,untilcookedthrough.Donotstiruntilthefishiscookedandfirm,or thekoftasmightbreak.Stir in thecorianderandlemonjuiceandcookforafurther5minutes.Servewithwhitericeandbalachaung.

PazoonKyaw(1)FriedprawnsServes:41teaspoonsalt1teaspoongroundturmeric

1teaspoonchillipowder

16rawlargeprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined2tablespoonssesameoil

Mixtogetherthesalt,turmericandchillipowderinabowl.Addtheprawnsandtosstocoatinthespicemixture.Thread4prawnsontoeachskewer.

Heat the sesame and peanut oils in a large heavy-based frying pan over highheat.Cook theprawnskewers, turningonce,until cooked throughandgolden.Servehot.

PazoonKyaw(2)Stir-friedprawnswithvegetablesServes:4

1tablespoonoil

1onion,thinlysliced500g(1lb2oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined(halvediflarge)240g(8½oz/2⅔cups)freshbeansprouts,trimmedor150g(5½oz/2cups)shreddedcabbage2teaspoonslightsoysauce(optional)Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverhighheat.Addtheonionandcookforafewseconds,thenaddtheprawnsandbeansproutsandstir-fryfor3minutes,oruntiltheprawnschangecolour.Seasonwithsalt,freshlygroundblackpepperandsoysaucetotaste.Serveimmediately.

NgaSeeByanFishcurrywithoutgravy

Serves:4–6

1kg(2lb3oz)firmwhitefishfillets¼teaspoondriedshrimppasteor2teaspoonsfishsauce2onions,roughlychopped

1garlicclove

1stemlemongrassor2stripslemonzest1teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

1greenchilli,deseededandsplitlengthways(optional)60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableoilfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves,chopped,togarnishCutthefishintoservingpieces(seepreparingwholefish).

Dissolvetheshrimppastein1tablespoonhotwaterandruboverthefishtocoat.Setaside.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, salt, turmeric and chilli into a foodprocessorandprocesstoapurée.

Heat thevegetable oil in awokor largeheavy-based fryingpan and cook theonion mixture over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the oil returns and themixturestartstosticktothepan.Addthefishandcookfor3–4minutesoneachsideuntilcookedthrough.Sprinklewiththecorianderandservehot.

NgaThaLaukPaungSousedfishServes:4

500g(1lb2oz)wholefish,suchasherringormackerel,cleanedandscaled,head,finsandtailremoved1onion,thinlysliced4garliccloves,thinlysliced1teaspoonfinelyshreddedfreshginger

½teaspoonsalt,ortotaste

1freshgreenchilli

vinegar

Preheattheovento110°C(230°F).

Put the fish in a casserole dish and scatter over the onion, garlic, ginger,peppercornsandsalt.Putthechilliontopandaddjustenoughvinegartocoverthefish.Coverthecasserolewithatight-fittinglidandsealwithathickdoughofflour andwater topreventmoisture escaping.Cook the fish for6hours– thismethodofcookinghelpstosoftenthebones.

NgaBaungDoke(1)Fishsteamedinleaves

Serves:4

1teaspoonsalt

¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper½teaspoongroundturmeric8mustardcabbage(gaichoy)orEnglishspinachleaveseight20cm(8in)squaresbananaleaforfoil2onions,thinlysliced

4garliccloves

¼teaspoonchillipowder(optional)1tablespoonthickcoconutmilk1tablespoongroundrice

2teaspoonssesameoil

3–4sprigsfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesCutthefishinto8servingportions(seepreparingwholefish).Sprinkleoverhalfofthecombinedsalt,pepperandturmeric.Setaside.

Slicethethickmiddleriboutofthemustardcabbageleavesanddiscard.Scaldthe banana leaves in boiling water or hold them over a flame to make thempliable.

Puthalfoftheonionintoafoodprocessorwiththegarlic,ginger,chillipowder,if using, and coconutmilk and process to a purée. Stir in the remaining salt,pepperandturmeric,thenaddthegroundriceandsesameoil.Pouroverthefish

andtosstocoat.

Oneachsquareofbananaleafputaleafofmustardcabbageandonitapieceoffishandsomeoftheonionmixture.Topwithafewcorianderleavesandsomeoftheremainingonion.Wrapthefishfirstinthecabbageleaf,thenmakeaparcelwiththebananaleaf.Fastenwithshortbambooskewersorwoodentoothpicks.Alternativelywrapinfoil.

Cookthefishinasteamerbasketovergentlyboilingwaterfor20–25minutes.Serve in the leaves.Guests open their parcels on their ownplates. Servewithriceandotheraccompaniments,suchasbalachaung.

NgaBaungDoke(2)SesamecoconutfishsteamedinleavesServes:6

1kg(2lb3oz)skinless,boneless,firmwhitefishfilletssix30cm(12in)squaresbananaleafandfoil90g(3oz/1cup)desiccated(shredded)coconut2garliccloves

1tablespoonfinelygratedfreshginger2tablespoonslightlytoastedsesameseeds2teaspoonssalt

1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

juiceof½lemon

2tablespoonsriceflour

3tablespoonschoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesCutthefishinto8servingportions(seepreparingwholefish).

Scaldthebananaleavesinboilingwaterorholdthemoveraflametomakethempliable.

Putthecoconut,garlicandgingerintoafoodprocessorwith125ml(4floz/½cup) hot water and process to a smooth paste. Stir in the sesame seeds, salt,turmeric,pepper,lemonjuice,riceflourandcorianderleaves.

Put a fish portion on a square of banana leaf, top with 1 tablespoon of thecoconutmixtureandwrapinaparceltoenclose,thenwrapinalayeroffoil.

Cookthefishinasteamerbasketovergentlyboilingwaterfor15minutes.Servehot.

PazoonSeeByanHinDryprawncurry

Serves:4

1largeonion,roughlychopped3–4garliccloves

½teaspoongroundturmeric¼teaspoonchillipowder1tablespoonlightsesameoilorcornoil500g(1lb2oz)rawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined1tablespoonchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves2tablespoonschoppedspringonions(scallions)Puttheonion,garlic,ginger,turmericandchillipowderintoafoodprocessorandprocesstoapurée.

Heatthesesameoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanandcooktheonionmixture over lowheat for 20minutes, or until the oil returns and themixturestarts to stick to the pan. Add the prawns and coriander and cook for 3–4minutes,oruntiltheprawnsturnpink.Stirinthespringonionandservehotwithwhitericeandaccompaniments.

PantheKauksweChickencurrywithnoodlesThischickencurrywithnoodleshasamildcurryflavourwithlotsofgravy.Thecurryisladledoverabowlofnoodlesandservedwithanumberofaccompanimentswithcontrastingflavours.Youcanusethineggnoodlesratherthancellophanenoodlesifyouprefer.

Serves:6–8

1.5kg(3lb5oz)wholechickenorchickenthighs,wingsordrumsticks5garliccloves,chopped

3onions,chopped1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshginger1teaspoondriedshrimppaste2tablespoonspeanutoil

1–2teaspoonschillipowder

2teaspoonssalt

500ml(17floz/2cups)thincoconutmilk500ml(17floz/2cups)thickcoconutmilk2tablespoonsbesan(chickpeaflour)500g(1lb2oz)Cellophanenoodles(Kyazan)toserveaccompanimentsforMohhingha

Ifusingawholechicken,jointitintoportions(seeJointingachicken).

Put the garlic, onion, ginger anddried shrimppaste into a foodprocessor andprocesstomakeasmoothpaste,adding1tablespoonofthepeanutoilifneeded.

Heat the remaining peanut oil and sesame oil in a wok or large heavy-basedfryingpanover lowheat.Add theonionmixtureandcookfor5minutes, thenaddthechickenandcontinuetocook,stirringconstantly.Addthechillipowder,saltandthincoconutmilkandsimmeruntilthechickenistender,addingalittlehotwaterifthemixturebecomestoodry.Addthethickcoconutmilkandbringto the boil, stirring constantly to prevent the mixture from curdling. Mix thebesanwithjustenoughcoldwatertoamakeasmoothcream,andaddtothepan,cookingforafurther5minutes(thereshouldbealotofgravy).

Servethecurryandnoodlesseparately.Eachpersontakesaservingofnoodles,ladles over a generous amount of the curry and sprinkles the variousaccompanimentsoverthetop.Everythingismixedtogetherandalemonwedgesqueezedovertoaddpiquancy.Thecrispfriedchilliesareheldbythestalkandbitteninto(withcaution,please,ifthisisyourfirstattempt)whenahotmouthfulisdesired.

KauksweKyawMixedfriednoodleswithchickenServes:6

500g(1lb2oz)eggnoodles125ml(4floz/½cup)oil4–5driedshiitakemushrooms5onions,chopped

5garliccloves,chopped500g(1lb2oz)bonelessskinlesschickenbreastsorthighs,thinlysliced1chickenliver,thinlysliced1chickengizzard,parboiled,thinlysliced

½cabbage,shredded½Chinesecabbage(wombok),shredded2celerystalks,finelychopped6springonions(scallions),thinlysliced4eggs,lightlybeaten

Soak thenoodles thendrain.Cook thenoodles in a saucepanof boilingwateruntil tender, then drain. Spread the noodles on a large dish or tray. Pour 2tablespoonsoftheoiloverthetopandtossgentlytocoat–thisstopsthenoodlesstickingtoeachother.

Soak themushrooms in hot water for 20–30minutes, then drain, cut off anddiscardthestemsandthinlyslicethecaps.

Heat theremainingoil inawokor largeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addtheonionandgarlicandcookuntilsoft.Addthechickenmeat,liverandgizzardandstir-fryuntillightlybrownonallsides,thenaddthesoysauce,cover, and simmer gently until the meat is tender. Add the cabbages, celery,mushroom and spring onion and continue to stir-fry until the vegetables aretender.Removefromthewokandsetaside.

Put thenoodles in thewokand tossgently for3minutes, then remove. In thesamewok,scrambletheegg,addingalittleoilifnecessary.Seasonwithsaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste.Whenreadytoserve,spreadthenoodlesina serving dish, then cover with the meat and vegetables. Garnish with thescrambledegg.Servehotorcold.

KyazangyiKauksweLargericenoodleswithchickencurryServes:6–8

1.5kg(3lb5oz)wholechicken1teaspoongroundturmeric

2teaspoonssalt

60ml(2floz/¼cup)fishsauce375ml(12½floz/1½cups)thickcoconutmilk3largeonions,thinlysliced3garliccloves,crushed55g(2oz/½cup)besan(chickpeaflour)500ml(17floz/2cups)thincoconutmilk

500g(1lb2oz)driedricenoodlesor1kg(2lb3oz)freshricenoodles

2teaspoonschillioil

4hard-boiledeggs,sliced

Jointthechickenintoportions.

Put thechickenportions intoasaucepanwith theturmeric,salt, fishsauceandjustenoughwatertoalmostcover.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,cover, and simmer until the chicken is tender. Allow to cool, then strain,reservingthestock.Discardtheskinandbonesandfinelyshredthemeat.

Put the thick coconut milk into a large saucepan over medium heat and stirconstantly until it becomes thick and the oil rises to the top. Add half of theonionandall thegarlicandcook, stirringconstantly,until theystart tocolour.Addthechickenandstirconstantly,forafewminutes.Setaside.

Mix thebesanwith justenoughcoldwater to forma thincream.Add the thincoconutmilktoaseparatesaucepanandwhenitcomestoaboil,stirinthebesan

mixture. Cook and stir constantly until it thickens, taking care it does notbecomelumpyorsticktothepan.Graduallyaddthestrainedchickenstockuntilthegravyisasthickasastew.Addthechickenandonionmixture.

Iffreshricenoodlesareboughtaslargesheets,cutthemintonarrowstripsandsoak in boilingwater to heat through. If using dried noodles, cook them in asaucepanofboilingwateruntiltender.Drainwellandplaceinaservingbowl.

Bring the chicken combination to simmering point, stir in the chilli oil, thenremove from the heat and serve immediately with the noodles, egg andremainingonionservedseparately.

KyethaHinChickencurrywithgravyServes:4–6

1.5kg(3lb5oz)wholechicken2onions.roughlychopped1garlicclove

1stemlemongrass,whitepartonly,sliced,or2stripslemonzest

2teaspoonssalt,ortotaste

1teaspoonchillipowder(optional)1largeripetomato,chopped2largepotatoes,peeledandcubedor250g(9oz/2cups)cauliflowerflorets1tablespoonfishsauce

1tablespoonlemonjuice

¼teaspoongroundcardamom1tablespoonchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesJointthechickenintoportions.

Put theonionintoafoodprocessorwith thegarlic,gingerandlemongrassandprocess toapaste,adding1 teaspoonof thevegetableoil tomake itsmooth ifneeded.

Heattheremainingoilinalargesaucepanoverlowheat.Addtheonionmixturewiththesalt,turmericandchillipowder,ifusing,andstir-fryovermediumheat,addingafewdropsofwaterifthemixturestartstosticktothepan.Simmerover

lowheatuntilthemoistureevaporatesandtheingredientsturnarichred-browncolour.Addthechickenpieces,turningtocoat,thencoverandsimmerfor15–25minutes.Add250ml(8½floz/1cup)water,thetomato,potato,fishsauceandlemonjuiceandcontinuecookingforafurther20minutes,oruntilthepotatoiscooked through, stirring occasionally. If using cauliflower, add it when thechickenisnearlydone.Addthecardamomandcorianderleaves,stirquicklyandreplacethelidforafewsecondstoholdinthearoma.Servewithwhitericeandotheraccompaniments.

KyethaSeeByanChickencurrywithoutgravyServes:4–6

1.5kg(3lb5oz)wholechicken2onions,chopped1garlicclove,chopped

1stemlemongrass,whitepartonly,sliced,or2stripslemonzest

1½teaspoonssalt,ortotaste

½teaspoonchillipowder(optional)¼teaspoongroundcardamom1tablespoonchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leavesJointthechickenintoportions.

Put theonionintoafoodprocessorwith thegarlic,gingerandlemongrassandprocess toapaste,adding1 teaspoonof thevegetableoil tomake itsmooth ifneeded.

Heattheremainingoilinalargesaucepanoverlowheat.Addtheonionmixturewiththesalt,turmericandchillipowder,ifusing,andstir-fryovermediumheat,addingafewdropsofwaterifthemixturestartstosticktothepan.Simmeroverlowheatuntilthemoistureevaporatesandtheingredientsturnarichred-browncolour.Atthisstagetheywillbegintosticktothepansokeepstirring,andaddthechickenpieces,turningthemwellinthemixturesothattheyarewellcoated.Cover and simmer for 35–45 minutes, or until the chicken is tender, stirringtowardstheendofcookingtimetopreventsticking.Thejuicesfromthechickenwillprovidesufficientliquidforthiscurry,sodonotaddwaterorotherliquid.

Add the cardamomand coriander leaves, stir quickly and replace the lid for afew seconds to hold in the aroma. Serve with white rice and otheraccompaniments.

AmeHnatVerydrybeefcurryServes:4–6

2largeonions5largegarliccloves2teaspoonsfinelygratedfreshginger1teaspoongroundturmeric

1teaspoonchillipowder

125ml(4floz/½cup)lightsesameoilorcornoil750g(1lb11oz)stewingsteak,cutinto5cm(2in)cubes¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2stemslemongrass,whitepartonly,sliced,or4stripslemonzest1½teaspoonssalt

2largeonions,extra,thinlyslicedanddeep-frieduntilcrispPuttheonion,garlic,ginger,turmericandchillipowderintoafoodprocessorandprocesstoapurée.

Heatthesesameoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanandcooktheonionmixture over lowheat for 20minutes, or until the oil returns and themixturestarts to stick to the pan. Add the beef, pepper and lemongrass and continuecookingslowly,untilallthejuicesfromthebeefhavecompletelyevaporatedandthemeat isbrown.Add250ml (8½floz/1cup)hotwaterand thesalt,cover,andsimmeruntilthemeatistender,addingmorewaterifnecessary.Removethelid,increasetheheatandcookrapidlyuntilthemeatisoily-dryandwellcoated.

Garnishwiththefriedonionsandservewithwhitericeandaccompaniments.

AmethaNetAlooHinBeefandpotatocurry

Serves:4–62largeonions,chopped5largegarliccloves,chopped2teaspoonsfinelygratedfreshginger1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonchillipowder

250ml(8½floz/1cup)lightsesameoilorcornoil½teaspoongroundcumin½teaspoongroundcoriander750g(1lb11oz)stewingsteak,cutinto5cm(2in)cubes1½teaspoonssalt,ortotaste375g(13oz)potatoes,peeledandquarteredPuttheonion,garlic,ginger,turmericandchillipowderintoafoodprocessorandprocesstoapurée.

Heatthesesameoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanandcooktheonionmixture over lowheat for 20minutes, or until the oil returns and themixturestarts to stick to thepan.Add the cumin and coriander, then add thebeef andcookstirringfora fewminutes tobrownonallsides.Add thesalt,potatoand500ml(17floz/2cups)waterandsimmeruntilthemeatistenderandthepotatoiscooked.

You can rub the cumin, corianderand salt into thebeef before cooking if youprefer.

Alternative

You can also make a beef and pumpkin (winter squash) curry (amétha netshwephayone thee hin). Simply replace the potato with pumpkin and omit thecuminandcoriander–youwillonlyneedtouse250ml(8½floz/1cup)watertocookuntilthepumpkinissoft.Inplaceofpumpkinthefollowingvegetablescanbe used: tomatoes, green beans, eggplant (aubergine), peas, split peas, okra,cauliflower,kohlrabi,butterbeans,broad(fava)beans,daikon(whiteradish).

WethaniKyetFriedporkcurry

Youmaytakeonelookattheingredientsofthisrecipeandfeelsurethere’sbeenamistake in the amount of garlic and ginger, but this isn’t so. This favouriteBurmesepreparationhasthemostdeliciousflavour,andissupposedtobeawayofpreservingporkformonthswithoutrefrigeration.Inourhouse,however,it’seatensoquicklyIhaven’tbeenabletotestthetheory.

Serves:8–10

4onions,roughlychopped

20garliccloves

200g(7oz/1cup)choppedfreshginger2kg(4lb6oz)porkneckorleg,skinandbonesremoved,meatcutinto2.5cm(1in)cubes2teaspoonssalt

2tablespoonsvinegar

1–2teaspoonschillipowder190ml(6½floz/¾cup)peanutoil60ml(2floz/¼cup)sesameoil

Put the onion, garlic and ginger into a food processor and process until wellcombined.Turn out into a sieve set over a bowl and pushwith the back of aspoontoextractasmuchliquidaspossible,reservingthesolids.Pourthisliquidintoa largesaucepan,add thepork,salt,vinegar,chillipowderandhalfof thepeanutoilandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,cover,andsimmerfor1–1½hours,oruntiltheporkisalmosttender.Removefromtheheat.

Heattheremainingpeanutoilandsesameoilinalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverlowheat.Addthereservedonionsolidsandturmericandstir-fryuntiltheoil returnsandthemixturestarts tostick to thepan,about25minutes. I findIneed to add a tablespoon ofwater from time to time and to stir frequently topreventsticking.Halfwaythroughcookingtheonionmixture,spoonoffsomeoftheoilthathasrisentothetopoftheporkmixtureandaddittotheonions.

Whenthemixtureisareddish-brown,addtheporkingredientsfromthefirstpanand continue cooking until the oil separates again and the liquid is almostevaporated,stirringfrequently.Servewithwhitericeandaccompaniments.

WethaSeeByanDryporkcurry

Serves:4

2teaspoonstamarindpulp1largeonion,chopped3garliccloves,chopped1teaspoonfinelygratedfreshginger½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonchillipowder60ml(2floz/¼cup)lightsesameoilorcornoil500g(1lb2oz)porkbelly,trimmedandcutinto5cm(2in)cubes1stemlemongrass,whitepartonly,sliced,or2stripslemonzest1tablespoonfishsauceSoakthetamarindpulpin60ml(2floz/¼cup)hotwaterfor10minutes.Squeezetodissolvethepulpinthewater,thenstrain,discardingtheseedsandfibre.Measure2tablespoonsoftheliquidandsetaside.

Put the onion, garlic, ginger, turmeric and chilli powder into a food processorandprocesstoapurée.

Heatthesesameoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanandcooktheonionmixture over lowheat for 20minutes, or until the oil returns and themixturestartstosticktothepan.Addtheporkandsimmergentlyinitsownjuicesuntiltender.Add the lemongrass, tamarind liquid and fish sauce and stirwell, thencontinuecookinguntilallthewaterhasevaporatedandtheoilseparatesfromthesauce.Servehot.

Theflavourof thecurrycanbevariedbyaddingextrachillipowder forahotcurry,orstirringinapieceofhotIndianmangopickle.Slicesoflemon,choppedfresh coriander (cilantro) leaves or chopped spring onions (scallions) can beaddedattheendofcooking,ifdesired.

ThanatsoneMixedvegetablesalad

Serves:6

300g(10½oz/3cups)mixedslicedvegetables60ml(2floz/¼cup)vegetableoil

½teaspoongroundturmeric2largeonions,thinlysliced4garliccloves,thinlysliced1tablespoonlightlytoastedsesameseeds

2tablespoonswhitevinegar

Blanchthevegetablesinasaucepanofsaltedboilingwaterfor1–2minutes,oruntil just tender but still crisp. Refresh immediately in cold water to preventovercooking,thendrainwell.

Heat the vegetable and sesame oils in awok or large heavy-based frying panovermediumheat.Addtheturmeric,onionandgarlicandstir-fryuntiltheonionandgarlic start to brown.Remove thepan from theheat and continue stirringuntil they are brown and crisp. When cool, pour a little of the oil over thevegetables,addtheonionandgarlicandtosslightlytocombine,addingsaltandvinegartotaste.Sprinkleoverthetoastedsesameseedsandservewithriceandcurry.

HmoKyawKyetMushroomsfriedwithchickenServes:6

60ml(2floz/¼cup)oil1largeonion,thinlysliced3garliccloves,finelychopped500g(1lb2oz)bonelessskinlesschickenbreastsorthighs,thinlysliced

500g(1lb2oz)freshmushrooms,halvediflargeHeattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addtheonionandgarlicandcookuntilgoldenbrown.Addthechickenandstir-fryfor2minutes,overhighheat,thenreducetheheattomedium,cover,andcookfor3minutes.Addthesoysauceandseasonwithsalttotaste,thenaddthemushrooms,re-cover,andsimmerfor3–4minutes.Increasetheheatandcookuncovereduntilmostoftheliquidhasevaporated.Servehotwithrice.

AkyawStir-friedvegetablesChooseanyofthefollowingvegetablesforthissimplestir-fryandmakesuretheyarethinlyslicedoranyleavesareshredded:okra,eggplant(aubergine),marrow(summersquash),zucchini(courgette),greenbeans,snowpeas(mangetout),carrot,cucumber,cabbage,Englishspinach,beansproutsorbambooshoots.

Serves:6

2teaspoonssesameoilorcornoil

1–2onions,thinlysliced

2garliccloves,thinlysliced

300–400g(10½–14oz/3–4cups)mixedslicedvegetablesfishsauce(optional)Heatthesesameoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addtheonionandgarlicandcookuntiltheonionissoft.Addthevegetablesandstir-fryuntiltheyaretenderbutstillcrisp.Seasonwithsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper,andasprinklingoffishsaucetotaste.Serveimmediately.

NgaChaukSaltfish

Flatbonysaltfishisusuallyusedinhinghasoupsorsourcurries.ThickfleshysaltfishiscutincubesandeitherfriedortoastedandservedwithplainboiledriceandHinchoandothermilddishes.

NgapiChetShrimppastesauté

Makes:2cups

1teaspoontamarindpulp

125ml(4floz/½cup)vegetableoil1onion,chopped6garliccloves,chopped¼teaspoongroundturmeric

1tablespoondriedshrimppaste

3–4tomatoes,quartered100g(3½oz/1cup)driedprawn(shrimp)powder2freshgreenchillies,deseededandsliced½teaspoonsalt,ortotasteSoakthetamarindpulpin1tablespoonhotwaterfor10minutes.Squeezetodissolvethepulpinthewater,thenstrain,discardingtheseedsandfibre.Setaside.

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addtheonion,garlicandturmericandstirfryuntildarkgoldenandnearlystickingtothepan. Add the dried shrimp paste, tomato, dried prawn powder, chilli andtamarindliquidandsimmeruntilalltheliquidhasevaporatedandtheoilstartstoseparate.Seasonwithsalttotaste.

NgapiHtaungPoundedprawnpasteThisprawnpasteiseateninverysmallquantitieswithrice.

Makes:1cup

2tablespoonsdriedshrimppaste

2onions,roughlychopped

4garliccloves

2tablespoonsdriedprawn(shrimp)powder2teaspoonschillipowder(optional)

1teaspoonsalt

juiceof½lemonWrapthedriedshrimppasteinapieceoffoilandroastunderapreheatedgrill(broiler)for5minutes,turninghalfwaythroughcookingtime.

Wraptheonionandgarlicinaseparatepieceoffoilandputunderthegrillwiththedriedshrimppastefor10minutes,oruntilfragrant.

Unwrap and,when cool, use amortar andpestle to poundwith the remainingingredients,stirringinthelemonjuiceuntilwellcombined.

NganPyaYeChetFishsaucesautéMakes:2cups

1teaspoonoil

1largeonion,finelychopped250ml(8½floz/1cup)fishsauce1stemlemongrass,whitepartonly,sliced,or2stripslemonzest,finelychopped6garliccloves,finelychopped2springonions(scallions),finelychopped½teaspoonchillipowderHeattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addtheonionandfryforafewseconds,thenaddthefishsauceandbringtotheboil.Removefromtheheatandimmediatelyaddthelemongrass,garlic,springonionandchillipowder.Allowtocoolbeforeserving.

PazoonNgabaungKyawPrawnsfriedinbatterServes:6500g(1lb2oz)smallrawprawns(shrimp),headsremoved(thereisnoneedtopeelanddeveinthemiftheyareassmallastheyshouldbe)oilfordeep-frying

Batter

55g(2oz/½cup)besan(chickpeaflour)75g(2¾oz/½cup)self-raisingflour1teaspoonsalt

1garlicclove,crushed½teaspoonfinelygratedfreshginger¼teaspoongroundturmericTomakethebatter,putalltheingredientsinalargebowlwith125ml(4floz/½cup)waterandstirwelltocombine.

Add the prawns to the batter and toss to coat.Heat the oil in awok or largeheavy-based saucepan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, deep-fry theprawns,inbatches,untilgoldenbrownandcrisp.Preventthemfromstickingtoeach other by spooning oil over as they are added to the oil. Drain on papertowelandservewarm.

BoothiNgabaungKyawWhitemarrowfriedinbatterServes:61quantitybatterfromPrawnsfriedinbatter(above)200–300g(7–10½oz/2–3cups)peeled,deseededandslicedmarrow(summersquash)oilfordeep-fryingMakethebatterfollowingthedirectionsabove.Dipthemarrowslicesintothebattertocoat.Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedsaucepanovermediumheat.Whentheoilishot,deep-frythemarrow,inbatches,untilgoldenandcrisp.Drainonpapertowelandserveimmediately.ThiscanbeaccompaniedbyFishsaucesautéfordipping.

PeTheePinPaukNgabaungKyawBeansproutsfriedinbatterServes:61quantitybatterfromPrawnsfriedinbatter(opposite)240g(8½oz/2⅔cups)freshbeansprouts,trimmedoilfordeep-fryingMakethebatterfollowingthedirectionsopposite.Foldinthebeansproutstocombine.Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedsaucepanovermediumheat.Whentheoilishot,deep-frythebattermixtureintablespoonfuls,untilgoldenbrownandcrisp.Drainonpapertowelandservehot.

ThaHnatCucumberpickle

Serves:6

2telegraph(long)cucumbers,peeled,halvedanddeseeded125ml(4floz/½cup)maltvinegar

1teaspoonsalt

60ml(2floz/¼cup)peanutoil

2tablespoonssesameoil

8garliccloves,thinlysliced1onion,thinlyslicedor2tablespoonsfriedshallots

2tablespoonslightlytoastedsesameseeds

Cutthecucumbersintothickstrips,thencutthestripsinto5cm(2in)lengths.

Putthevinegar,saltand500ml(17floz/2cups)waterinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Addthecucumberandboiljustuntiltheylooktranslucent–donotovercook.Drainimmediatelyandleavetocool.

Heatthepeanutandsesameoilsinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addthegarlicandcookuntilpalegolden.Removetoaplate.Addtheonionandcookuntilgolden.Removetoaplate.Whentheoilinthepaniscold, dress the cucumberswith 3 tablespoons of the oil,mixingwellwith thefingers. Put into a small servingdish, add the onion, garlic and sesame seeds,andtosslightlytocombine.

Wetha,Nga,PazoonLoneKyawFriedpork,fishorprawnballsMakes:about30500g(1lb2oz)leanporkmeatorskinless,bonelessfishfilletsorrawprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined1–2onions,finelychopped

1freshgreenchilli,deseededandfinelychopped

¼teaspoongroundturmeric1tablespoonchoppedfreshcoriander(cilantro)leaves,finelychoppedsalttotasteplain(all-purpose)flourforcoatingoilforfryingMince(grind)thepork,fishorprawnsthroughthefinebladeofamincer(grinder).Addalltheremainingingredients,excepttheflourandoil,andmixwelltocombine.Takeatablespoonfulofthemixtureatatimeandshapeintolittleballs.Rolltheballsintheflourtocoat.

Heat the oil in a wok or large heavy-based frying pan and cook the balls, inbatches,turningoften,untilgolden.

BeyakyawSplitpeafrittersServes:8

220g(8oz/1cup)splitpeas,soakedovernightinwater,thendrained2onions,finelychopped

2freshredchillies,deseededandfinelychopped

½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonsaltoilfordeep-fryingslicedonionandlemonwedgestogarnishPutthesplitpeasinafoodprocessorandprocesstoapaste.Stirinalltheremainingingredients,excepttheoil,onionandlemonwedges.Take1tablespoonatatimeandshapeintoballs.Flatteneachballtomakea1.5cm(½in)thickpatty.

Heattheoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Whentheoilishot,deep-frythefritters,inbatches,untilgoldenbrown.Drainonpapertowel.Servewiththeslicedonionandlemonwedges.

BalachaungOilybalachaungBalachaung is a preparation of fried dried prawns (shrimp) and is the mostpopularBurmeseaccompanimentservedwithrice.

Makes:3cups

500ml(17floz/2cups)peanutoil4onions,thinlysliced20garliccloves,thinlysliced250g(9oz)driedprawn(shrimp)powder2teaspoonschillipowder(optional)2teaspoonssalt

1teaspoondriedshrimppaste125ml(4floz/½cup)vinegarHeatthepeanutoilinawokorlargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverlowheat.Cooktheonionandgarlicseparatelyuntilgolden.Useaslottedspoontoremoveeachtoaplate–theywillbecomecrispanddarkenastheycool.

Addthedriedprawnpowdertothewokandstir-fryfor5minutes,thenaddthechillipowder,saltandcombineddriedshrimppasteandvinegar,andcontinuetostir-fryuntilcrisp.Removefromtheheatandallowtocoolcompletely.Addthefriedonionandgarlic,stirringtocombineandstoreinasterilisedairtightjarforupto4weeks.

Tomakeadrybalachaung,cooktherecipeabovebutonceboththegarlicandonionhavebeenfried,removeallbut250ml(8½floz/1cup)oftheoilfromthepan.Allthedriedprawnpowdershouldbemoistenedbytheoil.Ifthereisnotenoughoil,addaspoonfulortwofromthereservedoil.Remainingoilmaybeusedforflavouringfriedriceandotherdishes.

MohLoungYeBawTeethingcake

These little dumplings cooked in coconut milk are prepared and traditionallysenttoneighboursandfriends,orfedtothepoor,incelebrationofababy’sfirsttooth.

Serves:8

150g(5½oz/1cup)plain(all-purpose)flour175g(6oz/1cup)riceflourapinchofsalt

½teaspoonbicarbonateofsoda(bakingsoda)1tablespoonlightsesameoilorcornoil60g(2oz/1cup)gratedfreshcoconut90g(3oz/½cup)gratedpalmsugar(jaggery)1litre(34floz/4cups)coconutmilk

1tablespoonsugar

Sift the plain and rice flours, salt and bicarbonate of soda into a bowl. Mixthoroughly, then rub in the oil. Add just enoughwater tomake a firm paste,about170ml(5½floz/⅓cup).Kneadwelltomakeasmoothdough.

Inaseparatebowl,mixtogetherthecoconutandpalmsugar.Take1teaspoonofdoughatatimeandrollintoneatballs.Useyourhandtoflattentoacircleandputalittleofthecoconutandpalmsugarmixtureinthecentre.Mouldthedoughtogethertosealandre-rolltomakeaperfectglobe.

Putthecoconutmilkandsugarinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboil.Gentlylowertheballsintotheboilingmilkandstirgentlyuntiltheyrisetothesurface.Continue to simmer for 10minutes after they start to float. Serve hot or coldwithalittleofthecoconutliquid,ifdesired.

Moh-Let-SaungIcedcoconutmilkwithsagoServes:6195g(7oz/1cup)sago135g(5oz/¾cup)gratedpalmsugar(jaggery)icecubes

1litre(34floz/4cups)coconutmilk

Washandsoakthesagoin1litre(34floz/4cups)waterfor1hour.Drainwell,then transfer to a large saucepanwith 750ml (25½ fl oz/3 cups) freshwater.Bringto theboilandsimmerovermediumheatuntil thesagograinsareclear.Coolandrefrigeratetochillcompletely.

Putthepalmsugarinasmallsaucepanwith250ml(8½floz/1cup)waterandheatgentlyuntilitdissolves.Coolandstrain.

For each serving, put 4 tablespoons of chilled sago into a tall glass, add 3tablespoonsofthepalmsugarsyrupandmixwell.Addicecubesandfillupwithcoconutmilk.Stirandserve.

GinThokeGingermix

Thisafter-mealdigestiveiseatenasasnackinsteadofdessert.

Serves:8

125g(4½oz)verytenderyoungginger,peeledandthinlysliced80–125ml(2½–4½floz/⅓–½cup)lemonjuice2tablespoonspeanutoil

12garliccloves,thinlysliced2–3tablespoonssesameseedsMarinatethegingerinabowlwiththelemonjuiceforatleast1houroruntilthegingerturnspink.

Heatthepeanutandsesameoilsinasmallfryingpan.Addthegarlicandcookuntilpalegolden.Removeimmediatelyanddrainonpapertowel.Allowtocoolandcrisp.Putthesesameseedsinadryfryingpanandtoastuntilgoldenbrown,stirring constantly. Turn onto a plate to cool.Drain the ginger and put it in abowl. Add salt to taste, and sprinkle with the garlic and sesame seeds. Tosstogetherlightlyandserveinsmallbowls.

SanwinMakinSemolinapudding

Thisdish(pronounced‘sinamakin’)isrichwithcoconutmilk,gheeandsesameseeds.Itiscutandservedlikeacake.

Makes:25pieces

125g(4½oz/1cup)finesemolina750ml(25½floz/3cups)thickcoconutmilk220g(8oz/1cup)sugar125g(4½oz)gheeorbutter,cutintocubesapinchofsalt

¼teaspoongroundcardamom

3eggs,separated

2–3tablespoonslightlytoastedsesameseedsPreheattheovento160°C(320°F).Lightlygreasea22cm(8¾in)squarecaketinorovenproofdish.

Put the semolina in a large heavy-based saucepan.Gradually add the coconutmilk,stirringoftentokeepthemixturefreeoflumps.Addthesugar,placeovermediumheatandbring to theboil, stirringconstantly.When themixtureboilsandthickensaddasmallamountofgheeatatimeandcontinuecookinguntilthemixture becomes very thick and leaves the side of the pan.Remove from theheat,thenaddthesaltandcardamomandmixwell.Beatintheeggyolks,oneatatime.

Whisk the egg whites in a clean bowl until stiff peaks form. Fold into thesemolinamixture.

Turn themixture into the prepared tin and smooth the top. Sprinkle over thesesame seeds andbake in the oven for 45–60minutes, or untilwell risen andgolden brown.Remove from the heat, allow to cool in the dish, then cut intolargediamond-shapedpieces.Serveasasnackordessert.

ShweHtminGoldenrice

Serves:4

200g(7oz/1cup)long-grainrice

1tablespoonoil

500ml(17floz/2cups)coconutmilk¼teaspoongroundturmeric¼teaspoonsalt

2tablespoonssugar

60g(2oz/1cup)gratedfreshcoconut,plusextratoserve2tablespoonslightlytoastedsesameseeds,plusextratoservePreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Washthericewellanddraininacolanderfor30minutes.

Heattheoilinasaucepanovermediumheat.Addthericeandstirconstantlyfor3minutestocoatintheoil.Addthecoconutmilk,turmeric,saltandsugarandbringtotheboilforabout2minutes,oruntiltheliquidlooksthick.Reducetheheat to low, cover, and cook for 15 minutes, or until all the liquid has beenabsorbed.Removefromtheheatandwhilestillhot,fluffupwithaforkandmixinthecoconut.

Transferthericetoagreasedovenproofdishandsmooththetop,pressingdownfirmly. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and bake in the oven for 20 minutes.Removefromtheheat,cutintodiamondshapesandservewithmoregratedfreshcoconutandtoastedsesameseeds,whichhavebeenslightlycrushedandmixedwithalittlesalt.

KyaukKyaw(1)IcedjellydrinkAgar-agarorseaweedjellyalsogivesitsnametoadrinkservedinBurmathatissopopularitissoldoneverystreetcorner.palmsugar(jaggery)orslabsugarroseconcentrate540g(1lb3oz)grassjelly(glossary),thinlyslicedicedwater

crushediceMakeasyrupfromthesugarandwater.Allowtocool,thenaddtheroseconcentratetoflavour.Putatablespoonofthegrassjellyintoeachglass.Addacoupleofspoonfulsofthesyrup,thenfillupwithicedwaterandcrushedice.Stirwellandserve.Anotherversionofthisusescoconutmilkinsteadofwater,andisalsodeliciousandcoolingonahotday.

Choppedagar-agarjellycanbeusedinplaceoftinnedgrassjellyifpreferred.

NgapyawKyawBananasnacksLonggreenbananas,shortyellowbananas,three-corneredbananas,largeredbananas,smallsourbananas,sweetandbutter-smoothbananas–theyallgrowinBurmaandareavailableallyearround.Sweet, delicately flavoured varieties are eaten as they are, but others are thestartingpointforallsortsofsweetsnacks.Theycanbesliced,rolledinflourandfried; boiled in coconutmilk;mashedwith egg and a little plain (all-purpose)flour tomake a thick batter and shallow fried. These snacks are often servedwithasyrupmadefrompalmsugar(jaggery).

KyaukKyaw(2)Seaweedjelly

This jelly is made from translucent strands of refined seaweed that look likecrinkledstripsofcellophane. It issold inAsiangrocerystoresasrefinedagar-agar.Agar-agarpowderisalsosoldinpacketsatAsiangrocerystores.Thenameoftherecipeispronounced‘chow-chaw’.

Makes:about18pieces7g(¼oz)agar-agarstrandsor1 tablespoonagar-agarpowder1litre(34floz/4cups)coconutmilk110g(4oz/½cup)sugarafewdropsofroseflavouringor1tablespoonrosewaterSoakthestrandsofagar-agarincoldwaterforatleast1hour,orpreferablyovernight.Drainandmeasureout1½cupslooselypackedstrands.Putthestrandsandcoconutmilkintoasaucepanandbringtotheboil,stirringconstantly.Addthesugarandsimmerfor15–20minutes,stirringoften,untilallthestrandsarecompletelydissolved.Removefromtheheat.

Alternativelyifyouareusingagar-agarpowder,sprinkleontopofthemilkandbringtotheboil,thensimmerandstirfor10minutes.Removefromtheheat.

Addtheroseflavouringtothejelly,totaste,thenpourintoa1.5litre(51floz/6cup)capacitydishrinsedoutwithcoldwater,andallowtoset.Refrigerateuntilreadytoserve.Cutintosquaresordiamonds.Thisisaveryfirmjellyandcanbepickedupandeatenwithyourfingers.

Insomeinstances,makingyourowncoconutmilkgivesamuchmoreauthenticandlighterresult.Thisdessertisoneofthem.

Agar-AgarAsettingagentobtained fromseaweed, agar-agar iswidelyused inAsia, as itsetswithout refrigeration. It is sold insachets inpowder formand isavailablefrom Asian grocery stores and health food stores. It is also sold in strands,though they are less obtainable and slower to dissolve.Also known as: kyaukkyaw (Burma), dai choy goh (China), kanten (Japan), gulaman (Philippines),chunchow(SriLanka),woon(Thailand),raucau(Vietnam).

AromaticGingerSeegalangal,lesser.

BambooshootsSold in tinsand jars,eitherwater-packed,pickledorbraised.Unlessotherwisestated,therecipesinthisbookusethewater-packedvariety.Ifusingthetinnedvariety,storeleft-overbambooshootsinabowloffreshwaterintherefrigerator,changing the water daily for up to 10 days.Winter bamboo shoots aremuchsmallerandmoretender,andarecalledforincertainrecipes.However,if theyare not available, use the larger variety. Also known as: wah-bho-khmyit(Burma), tumpeang (Cambodia), suehn (China), rebung (Indonesia), takenoko(Japan), rebong (Malaysia), labong (Philippines), normai (Thailand), mang(Vietnam).

BeansproutsGreenmungbeansaretraditionallyusedforbeansprouts.Theyaresoldfreshinmost large supermarkets,Asiangrocery stores andhealth food stores.Chinesestores sell longer shoots than those available from supermarkets, which areusuallyjuststartingtosprout.Substitutethinlyslicedceleryforasimilartexturebutdifferentflavour.Veryfreshbeansproutscanbestoredintherefrigeratorforup to 4 days in a plastic bag; alternatively, cover with water and change thewater daily.Beforeusing, rinse the sprouts, drainwell and trimoff thebrowntails. Also known as:pepinauk (Burma), nga choi (China), taoge (Indonesia),moyashi (Japan), suk ju (Korea), taugeh (Malaysia and Singapore), tau ngork(Thailand),gia(Vietnam).

Besan(chickpeaflour)Availableatmost largesupermarketsandAsiangrocerystores.Pea flour fromhealth food stores canbe substituted, but if it is coarse, pass it through a finesievebeforeusing.Alternatively,roastyellowsplitpeasinaheavy-basedfryingpan,stirringconstantlyandtakingcarenottoburnthem.Cool,thenprocessinafoodprocessororpoundusingamortarandpestle,sift,thenstorethefineflourinanairtightcontainer.Besanhasadistinctive taste, andordinarywheat flourcannotbesubstituted.

CardamomBotanicalname:ElettariacardamomumNext to saffron, cardamom is the world’s most expensive spice. CardamomsgrowmainlyinIndiaandSriLanka,andaretheseedpodsofamemberofthegingerfamily.Thedriedseedpodsareeitherpalegreenorbrown,accordingtovariety; sometimes they are bleached white. They are added, either whole orbruised,topilausandotherricedishes,spicedcurriesandotherpreparationsorsweets. When ground cardamom is called for, the seed pods are opened anddiscardedandonlythesmallblackorbrownseedsareground.Forfullflavour,itisbesttogrindthemjustbeforeusing.Ifyoucannotbuyahigh-qualitygroundcardamom,crushtheseedsusingamortarandpestleorspicemill,asrequired.Alsoknownas:phalazee (Burma), illaichi (India),kapulaga (Indonesia),buahpelaga(Malaysia),enasal(SriLanka),kravan(Thailand).

Cellophane(beanthread)noodlesThesearefine,translucentnoodlesmadefromthestarchofgreenmungbeans.The noodles may be soaked in hot water before use, or may require boilingaccordingtothetexturerequired.Theycanalsobedeep-friedstraightfromthepacket,generallywhenusedasagarnishor toprovideabackground forotherfoods.Alsoknownas:kyazan(Burma),meesooer(Cambodia),bifun,ningfun,sai fun, fun see (China), sotanghoon (Indonesia), harusame (Japan), sohoon,tunghoon (Malaysia), sotanghon (Philippines), woon sen (Thailand), búng u,mien(Vietnam).

ChilliPowderAsian chilli powder is made from ground chillies. It is much hotter than theMexican-stylechillipowder,whichismostlygroundcumin.YoumaybeabletofindgroundKashmirichillies,whichareabrighterredcolourandnotashotasothergroundchillies.

Chillies,Bird’sEyeVery small, very hot chillies. Used mainly in pickles, though in some casesaddedtofoodwhenaveryhotflavourisrequired(asinThaifood).Treatwithcautionandweardisposablegloveswhenhandlingseeds.Aswithallchillies,theseeds and membrane contain the highest concentration of volatile oil. Alsoknown as: cili padi (Malaysia), siling labuyo (Philippines), kochchimiris (SriLanka),prikkeenoosuan(Thailand).

Chillies,greenandredBotanicalname:Capsicumspp.Chillies mature from green to red, becoming hotter as they mature. Bothvarietiesareusedfreshforflavouring,eitherwholeorfinelychopped,slicedasagarnish or ground into sambals. The seeds, which are the hottest parts, areusually(thoughnotalways)removed.Largervarietiestendtobemilderthanthesmallvarieties.SeeChillieforhandling.DriedredchilliesarefoundinpacketsinAsian grocery stores – themedium-to large-sized chillies are best formostrecipesinthisbook.

CinnamonBotanicalname:CinnamomumzeylanicumandverumTruecinnamonisnativetoSriLanka.Buycinnamonsticksorquillsratherthanthegroundspice,whichloses its flavour when stored too long. It is used in both sweet and savourydishes.Cassia,which is grown in India, Indonesia andBurma, is similar. It ismuchstrongerinflavour,andischeaper,butitlacksthedelicacyofcinnamon.Theleavesandbudsofthecassiatreehaveaflavoursimilartothebarkandarealsousedforflavouringfood.Forsweetdishes,usetruecinnamon.Cassiabarkismuch thickerbecause thecorky layer is lefton.Alsoknownas: thit-ja-boh-guak(Burma),darchini(India),kayumanis (MalaysiaandIndonesia),kurundu(SriLanka),opchery(Thailand),que(Vietnam).

ClovesBotanicalname:Syzygiumaromaticum,EugeniaaromaticaandE.caryophyllusClovesarethedriedflowerbudsofanevergreentropicaltreenativetoSoutheastAsia.TheywereusedinChinamorethan2000yearsago,andwerealsousedbythe Romans. Oil of cloves contains phenol, a powerful antiseptic thatdiscourages putrefaction, and the clove is hence one of the spices that helpspreserve food.Alsoknownas: ley-nyin-bwint (Burma), laung (India),cengkeh(Indonesia), bunga cingkeh (Malaysia), karabu (Sri Lanka), kaan ploo(Thailand).

CoconutmilkThis is not thewater inside the nut, as is commonly believed, but the creamyliquid extracted from the grated flesh of fresh coconuts or from desiccated orshreddedcoconut(Coconutmilk).Whencoconutmilkiscalledfor,especiallyinsweetdishes,domakeanefforttouseit,foritsflavourcannotbeduplicatedbyusinganyotherkindofmilk.TinnedandTetraPakcoconutmilksavestimeandeffort, althoughbewarned that somebrands are farbetter thanothers so try afew until you find one that appeals. Low-fat coconut milk is an unappealingsubstitute.

Coriander(cilantro)Botanicalname:CoriandrumsativumAllpartsof thecoriander(cilantro)plantareusedinAsiancooking.Thedriedseed is the main ingredient in curry powder, and although not hot it has afragrance thatmakes it an essential part of a curry blend.The fresh corianderherbisalsoknownascilantroorChineseparsleyinotherpartsoftheworld.ItisindispensableinBurma,Thailand,Vietnam,Cambodia,IndiaandChinawhereitis also called ‘fragrant green’. Also known as: nannamzee (seed),nannambin(leaves) (Burma), chee van soy (Cambodia), yuen sai (China), dhania (seed),dhania pattar, dhania sabz (leaves) (India), phak hom pom (Laos), ketumbar(seeds), daun ketumbar (leaves) (Malaysia), kinchay (Philippines), kottamalli(seed),kottamallikolle (leaves)(SriLanka),pakchee (Thailand),ngò,raumùi(Vietnam).

CuminBotanicalname:CuminumcyminumCumin is, with coriander, the most essential ingredient in prepared currypowders. It is available as seed, or ground. There may be some confusionbetweencuminandcaraway seedsbecause theyare similar in appearance,buttheflavoursarecompletelydifferentandonecannotreplacetheotherinrecipes.Also known as: ma-ch’in (China), sufaid zeera (white cumin), zeera, jeera(India),jinten(Indonesia),kumin(Japan),jintanputeh(Malaysia),sududuru(SriLanka),yira(Thailand).

DaunsalamAnaromaticleafusedinIndonesiancooking,itislargerthanthecurryleafusedin India and Sri Lanka, but has a slightly cinnamon flavour. There is nosubstitute.

DriedshrimppasteCommerciallysoldasblacan,blachanorbelacan,thisisapungentpastemadefromprawns (shrimp),andused inmanySoutheastAsian recipes. It is sold intins,flatslabsorblocksandwillkeepindefinitely.Ifstoredinanairtightjaritwill,likeagenieinabottle,performitsmagicwhenrequiredwithoutobtrudingon the kitchen at other times! It does not need refrigeration. Also known as:ngapi(Burma),trasi(Indonesia),blacan(Malaysia),kapi (Thailand),mamtom(Vietnam).

FennelBotanicalname:FoeniculumvulgareSometimes known as ‘sweet cumin’ or ‘large cumin’, because of its similar-shaped seeds, it is amember of the same botanical family and is used in SriLankancurries(butinmuchsmallerquantitiesthantruecumin).Itisavailableinground or seed form. Substitute an equal amount of aniseed. Also known as:samouk-saba (Burma),sonf (India),adas (Indonesia), jintanmanis (Malaysia),maduru(SriLanka),yira(Thailand).

FishcakesBothChinese-stylefishcakesandJapanese-stylefishcakesaresoldreadytouseinmostAsiangrocerystores.Theycanbekeptforafewdaysifrefrigerated,andneednofurthercookingapartfromheatingthrough.

FishsauceA thin, salty, brown sauce used in Southeast Asian cooking to bring out theflavourinotherfoods.Asmallvarietyoffishispackedinwoodenbarrelswithsalt,andtheliquidthatrunsoffisthe‘fishsauce’.Therearedifferentgradesoffishsauce,theVietnameseversionbeingdarkerandhavingamorepronouncedfish flavour than the others. Also known as: ngan-pya-ye (Burma), tuck trey(Cambodia),nampa (Laos),patis (Philippines),nampla (Thailand),nuocnam(Vietnam).

Galangal,greaterBotanicalname:AlpiniagalangaA rhizome, like ginger, galangal has thin brown skin and the flesh is creamywhite.As it ages, galangal becomeswoody and can be very tough to cut anddifficulttogrind.Scrapeofftheskinandchoptherootfinelybeforepoundingorgrindinginspicepastes.Slicesmaybesimmeredinsoupsandcurriesforextraflavour.Theyoungrhizome ismostattractivewithsmoothskinblushingpink.ThegreatergalangalismoreextensivelyusedinSoutheastAsiancookingthanlessergalangal,andismoredelicateinflavour,althoughifabsentfromadishitwillbemissed.Alsoknownas:pa-de-gaw-gyi(Burma),romdaeng(Cambodia),gao liang jiang, lam kieu, lam keong (China), kulanjan, kosht-kulinjan, pera-rattai (India), laos (Indonesia), lengkuas (Malaysia),kha (Thailand andLaos),riêng(Vietnam).Seealsogalangal,lesser(aromaticginger).

Galangal,lesser(aromaticginger)Botanicalname:Kaempferiapandurata,AlpiniaofficinarumAlsoknownas‘aromaticginger’,thismemberofthegingerfamilycannotbeusedasasubstituteforgingerorviceversa.Itisusedonlyincertaindishesandgivesapronouncedaromaticflavour.Whenavailablefresh,itisslicedorpoundedtoapulp;butoutsideofAsiaitisusuallysolddried,andthehardroundslicesmustbepoundedusingamortarandpestleorpulverisedinafoodprocessorbeforeuse.Insomespicerangesitissoldinpowderedformaskencurpowder.TheplantisnativetosouthernChinaandhasbeenusedforcenturiesinmedicinalherbalmixtures,butitisnotusedinChinesecooking.

Alsoknownas:saleunggeung,shageungfun(China),kencur(Indonesia),zeodaryorkencur(Malaysia),ingurupiyali(SriLanka),krachai(Thailand).

Ghee(clarifiedbutter)Sold in tins, ghee is pure butterfat without any of the milk solids. It can beheated tomuchhigher temperatures thanbutterwithoutburning,andimpartsadistinctiveflavourwhenusedasacookingmedium.Seefordetailsonmakingghee.

GingerBotanicalname:ZingiberofficinaleArhizomewith a robust flavour andawarmingquality, it is essential inmostAsian dishes. Fresh ginger root should be used; powdered ginger cannot besubstitutedforfreshginger,fortheflavourisquitedifferent.Toprepareforuse,scrapeofftheskinwithasharpknifeandeithergrateorchopfinely(accordingto recipe requirements) before measuring. To preserve fresh ginger for longperiodsof time,place ina freezerbagandstore in the freezer– it is a simplematter to peel and grate in the frozen state. Also known as: gin (Burma),khnyahee (Cambodia), jeung (China), adrak (India), jahe (Indonesia), shoga(Japan), halia (Malaysia), luya (Philippines), inguru (Sri Lanka), khing(Thailand),gung(Vietnam).

GlutinousriceBotanical name: Oryza sativa var. glutinosa and glutinosa Although alsoknown as sticky rice, because of its sticky consistency, it actually contains nogluten.Cookedbothaswholegrains,milledandunmilled(withbranremovedorintact),aswellasgroundintoflour.Thepurpleandblackvarietiesaredifferentstrains.MostlyusedtomakesweetsexceptinLaos,whereitiseateninplaceofordinary rice. Also known as: kao hnyin (Burma), bai dow map (Cambodia),nuomi (China),ketan (Indonesia),mochigome (Japan), chapssal (Korea), khaoniao (Laos and Thailand), pulot (Malaysia), malagkit (Philippines), go np(Vietnam).

GrassjellySoldintinsinAsiangrocerystores,thisblackjellymadewithseaweedisusedexclusivelyinsweetdrinksthroughoutBurma,Malaysia,SingaporeandChina.Ittastesandsmellsfaintlyofiodine,reassuringproofofhowgooditistoeat,asthosewhouseitbelieve.Alsoknownas:leungfun(China).

GroundriceSeerice,ground

HijikiBotanicalname:CystophyllumfusiformeAtypeofseaweedusedasavegetableby the Japanese. In its dried state it looks like coarse black wire. It must besoakedbeforecooking.

JicamaSeeyambean.

KaffirlimeSeemakrut.

Kencur(aromaticginger)powderSeeGalangal,lesser(aromaticginger).

Laos(driedgalangal)powderBotanicalname:AlpiniagalangaAverydelicatespice,soldinpowderform,laosistheground,driedrootofthe‘greatergalangal’.Thefreshorbottledrhizomewillhavemoreimpact,buttheground spice can add an intriguingnote to curries anddishes requiring longercooking.Seegalangal,greater.

LemongrassBotanicalname:CymbopogoncitratusThis aromaticAsianplant is a tall grasswith sharp-edged leaves thatmultiplyinto clumps. The whitish, slightly bulbous base is used to impart a lemonyflavourtocurries,saladsandsoups.Cutjustonestemwithasharpknife,closeto the root, and use about 10–12 cm (4–4¾ in) of the stalk from the base,discardingtheleaves.Ifyouhavetousedriedlemongrass,about12stripsdriedareequal to1 freshstem;although2–3stripsofvery thinlypeeled lemonzestwill do just as well. Dried ground lemongrass is known as sereh powder inIndonesia.Alsoknownas:zabalin (Burma),kreung,baimaknao (Cambodia),heungmasu tso (China),sera (IndiaandSriLanka),sereh (Indonesia),remon-sou(Japan),serai(Malaysia),takrai(Thailand),xa(Vietnam).

Lilybuds(goldenneedles)Botanicalname:HemerocallisAlsoknownas‘lotusbuds’, theselong,narrow,driedgoldenbudshaveaverydelicateflavourandaresaidtobenutritious.Beforeusing,soakfor30minutesor longer in hot water, then cut in half widthways or tie in a knot for moreelegant eating. Also known as: khim chiam (China), kanzou (Japan), pet kupjulgi(Korea),dolemaichin(Thailand),kimcham(Vietnam).

LotusrootBotanicalname:NelumbonuciferaThe edible rhizome of the graceful, ancient floweringwater plant. Sometimesavailablefresh;peel,cutintoslicesanduseasdirected.Driedlotusrootmustbesoaked for at least 20minutes in hotwaterwith a little lemon juice added topreserve whiteness. Peeled and sliced frozen lotus root is widely available.Tinned lotus root can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days after beingopened.Theseedsofthespentflower,peeledandeatenrawasasnackinAsia,are mild-tasting with a subtle crunch. The dried seeds, sometimes known as‘lotusnuts’,mustbeboileduntilsoft.TheyarecrystallisedwithsugaraspartofChinese NewYear sweet offerings, cooked into a sweet soup, andmade intosweetenedlotusnutpaste,whichismostlysoldintinsandusedasafillingforChinese moon cakes. Also known as: lien ngow, ngau (China), kamal-kakri(India), teratai (Indonesia), renkon (Japan), seroja (Malaysia), baino(Philippines),nelun-ala(SriLanka),bua-luang(Thailand).

MaceBotanicalname:MyristicafragransMaceispartof thenutmeg,afruit that looks likeanapricotandgrowsontalltropicaltrees.Whenripe,thefruitsplitstorevealthearil,lacyandbrightscarlet,surroundingtheshelloftheseed;thedriedarilismaceandthekernelisnutmeg.Macehasaflavoursimilartonutmegbutmoredelicate,anditissometimesusedinmeatorfishcurries,especiallyinSriLanka,althoughitsmainuseinAsiaismedicinal(afewbladesofmacesteepedinhotwater,thewaterthenbeingtakentocombatnauseaanddiarrhoea).Alsoknownas:javatri(India),wasa-vasi (SriLanka).

Makrut(kaffirlime)Botanicalname:Citrushystrix,C.papedia,C.amblycarpaThe leavesof thiscitrusareprizedfortheirflavourandareencounteredinthecuisinesofThailand,CambodiaandLaos.Thedouble-lobedleaf,whenyoungandshreddedintohair-finestrands,addsavibrantqualitytosaladsorsprinkledoveracookeddishjustbeforeeating.Theolder, tougher leavesare simmered incurriesandsoups fortheir lively citrus flavour. The bumpy, green-skinned fruit may also be aningredientincurrypastesandthejuiceusedindressings.Alsoknownas:shauk-mu,shauk-waing(Burma),slokkrauch(Cambodia),fatt-fung-kam(China),jerukpurut, jeruk sambal (Indonesia), limaupurut (Malaysia), swangi (Philippines),makrut(Thailand),kaffirvôi(Vietnam).

MintBotanicalname:MenthapiperitaAlthoughtherearemanyvarieties,Althoughtherearemanyvarieties, thecommon,round-leafedmint is theonemostoftenused in cooking. It adds flavour tomanydishes, and freshmint chutney is anessential accompaniment to an Indian biriani meal or as a dipping sauce forsamoosa.Mint is alsoused inLaotian fishdishes aswell asThai,Cambodianand Vietnamese salads. Also known as: chee ongkaam (Cambodia), podina(India),pakhomho(Laos),daunpudina(Malaysia),meenchi(SriLanka),hungcay(Vietnam).

MungbeanflourExtremelyfine,smoothflourmadefrommungbeans,itisavailableeitherwhiteorcolouredadelicatepinkorgreen,andisusedinthemakingofsweets.Whenmixed with water and brought to the boil it becomes clear and thick likearrowrootorcornflour(cornstarch)(bothofwhicharesuitablesubstitutes).Alsoknownas:luedaufen(China),tepunghoenkwe(IndonesiaandMalaysia),pangtua(Thailand),botdauxanh(Vietnam).

Mushrooms,shiitake(dried)Botanicalname:LentinusedodesAlsoknownas ‘fragrantmushrooms’, the flavourof thesemushrooms isquiteindividual.Theyareexpensivebutgiveanincomparableflavour.Soakfor20–30minutesbeforeusing.Thestemsareusuallydiscardedandonly thecapsused.Thereisnosubstitute.Alsoknownas:hmochauk(Burma),doonggwoo,leonggoo(China),cindauwan(Malaysia),kabutengshiitakenapinatuyo(Philippines),hedhom(Thailand),khônmshiitake,nmro’mkhô(Vietnam).

Mustardcabbage(gaichoy)Botanicalname:BrassicajunceaMustardcabbage (gaichoy),orSichuanvegetable, isoftenpreserved inbrine,with chilli added. It can be used as a relish, or included in dishes requiringpiquancy and tang. Sold in tins. Also known as: dai gai choy, jook gai choy(China), sarson (India), sawi hijau (Indonesia), takana, karashi-na (Japan),mustasa(Philippines),abbakolle(SriLanka),phakkatkhieo(Thailand),raucai(Vietnam).

OystersauceAddsdelicate flavour toallkindsofdishes.Made fromoysters cooked in soysauce and brine, this thick brown sauce can be kept indefinitely in therefrigerator.Alsoknownas:hoyu(China).

Palmsugar(jaggery)Thisstrong-flavoureddarksugarisobtainedfromthesapofcoconutpalmsandPalmyrah palms. The sap is boiled down until it crystallises, and the sugar isusuallysoldinround,flatcakesortwohemispheresputtogethertoformaballandwrapped indried leaves.Substituteblacksugar,anunrefined, stickysugarsoldinhealthfoodstores,oruserefineddarkbrownsugarsoldatsupermarkets.Thairecipesgenerallycallforpalepalmsugar,whileMalaysian,IndonesianandSri Lankan recipes favour dark palm sugar. Also known as: jaggery, tanyet(Burma), skor tnowth (Cambodia), gur, jaggery (India), gula aren, gula jawa(Indonesia), gula Melaka (Malaysia), jaggery, hakuru (Sri Lanka), nam taanpep,namtaanbik,namtaanmapraow(Thailand).

PaprikaBotanicalname:CapsicumtetragonumPaprikapeppers canbe tinnedorbottled aspimiento, but aremoreoftenuseddriedandpowderedandknownsimplyaspaprika.Goodpaprikashouldhaveamild,sweetflavourandbrilliantredcolour.AlthoughitisessentiallyaEuropeanflavouring, particularly used in Hungary and Poland, it is useful in Asiancooking for imparting the necessary red colour to a curry when the chillitoleranceofthedinersisnotveryhigh.InAsia,thecolourwouldcomefrom20to30chillies!

PeanutoilAtraditionalcookingmediuminChineseandSoutheastAsiancountries.Asianunrefined peanut oil is highly flavoured andmore expensive than the refinedpeanutoilfoundinWesternsupermarkets.Ithasahighsmokingpointandaddsadistinctiveflavourtostirfries.Refinedpeanutoilisidealfordeep-frying.Takealltheusualprecautionswherepeanutsareconcernedandavoiditifcookingforanyonewithnutsensitivities.Useoliveoilflavouredwithalittlesesameoilasanalternative.

Pepper,blackBotanicalname:PipernigrumPepper,theberryofatropicalvinenativetoIndia,isgreenwhenimmature,andred or yellow when ripe. Black pepper is obtained by boiling and then sun-drying the green, unripe drupes. It is only used in some curries, but is animportantingredientingarammasala.Vietnamisthemainproducerofpepper.Alsoknownas:nga-youk-kaun (Burma),hu-chiao (China),kalimirich (India),mericahitam(Indonesia),kosho(Japan),phiknoi(Laos),ladahitam(Malaysia),paminta(Philippines),gammiris(SriLanka),prikthai(Thailand).

Pepper,greenTheunripedrupeswhichareusedfreshinsomeAsiancuisines,suchasThaiandCambodian.Greenpeppercornsaremostlyavailable tinned,bottled inbrineorpreservedinvinegar.Driedgreenpeppercornsaresometimesavailablealso.Thefreshgreenpepperberries (drupes) arequitehotwithheady, almostmedicinalovertones.

Prawnpowder,driedFinelyshreddeddriedprawns(shrimp),soldinpacketsatspecialityfoodstoresandAsiangrocerystores.

RedasianshallotsBotanicalname:AlliumascalonicumShallotsaresmall,purplishonionswithred-brownskin.Likegarlic, theygrowinaclusterandresemblegarlicclovesinshape.Thename‘shallots’inAustraliaisgenerally(andincorrectly)giventospringonionsinsomestates.

Rice,groundThis canbe bought at supermarkets andhealth food stores. It is slightlymoregranularthanriceflour.Itgivesacrispertexturewhenusedinbatters.

RicepaperThincircularorsquaresheetsofricepasteimprintedwithabasketweavefromthebamboomats theyaredriedon. In theirdry state theyareverybrittle andmayshatterwhendropped.Afterdippinginwatertheybecomepliableandmaybeusedtowrapavarietyoffillingstheneatenasisordeep-fried.InVietnam,thesetranslucentwrappersareknownasbahntran.Unrelatedtothefine,wafer-like‘ricepaper’usedinconfectionery,whichisactuallynotmadefromriceatall.

Rice,toastedandgroundThiscanbeboughtinAsiangrocerystores,butisalsoeasytoprepare.Lightlybrownrawjasminericeinadryfryingpanoverlowheatforabout15minutes,stirring constantly so that it does not brown unevenly or burn. It should begoldenbrownallover.Grind toapowder ina foodprocessororelectricspicegrinder.ItaddstextureandadistinctiveflavourtoThaisalads.

Ricevermicelli(rice-stick)noodlesTheseareveryfinericeflournoodlessoldinChinesegrocerystores.Soakinginhotwaterfor10minutespreparesthemsufficientlyformostrecipes,butinsomecasestheymayneedboilingfor1–2minutes.Whendeep-friedtheyswellupandturnwhite.Foracrispresult,frythemstraightfromthepacketwithoutsoaking.Also known as:mee sooer (Cambodia), mei fun (China), beehoon, meehoon(Malaysia),senmee(Thailand),bún,lúamin(Vietnam).

RosewaterA favourite flavouring in Indian and Persian sweets, rosewater is the dilutedessenceextractedfromrosepetalsbysteamdistillation.It isessential inGulabjamun and Ras gula, and is also used in biriani. If you use rose essence orconcentrate, be careful not to over-flavour and be sure to count the drops.However, with rosewater a 1 tablespoon-measure can safely be used. BuyrosewaterfromchemistsorfromshopsspecialisinginAsianorMiddleEasterningredients.

Saltedsoybeans(taucheo)An Indonesian or Malaysian fermented soy bean sauce. The beans may bewhole, but are very soft and easy to mash. Yellow bean sauce is a smoothversion. Thai soy bean paste is a suitable substitute. Also sold as tauco andtauceo.

SambalulekAcombinationofchilliesandsalt,usedincookingorasanaccompaniment.TheoldDutch-Indonesianspelling,stillseenonsomelabels,issambaloelek.

SemolinaAwheatproductsometimesknownas‘farina’,itcomesincoarse,mediumandfinegrades.Recipesstipulatethecorrectgradetouse,butadifferentgradecanbesubstitutedalthoughtherewillbesomechangeintexture.Thebulksemolinasold inhealthfoodstores ismediumgrade;and thepackagedsemolinasold inItalian grocery stores and delicatessens is eithermedium or very fine.A littleexperimental shopping is recommended, for the grade of semolina is seldomlabelled.

SesameoilThesesameoilusedinChinesecookingisextractedfromtoastedsesameseedsandgivesatotallydifferentflavourfromthelighter-colouredsesameoilsoldinhealth food stores. For the recipes in this book, buy sesame oil from Asiangrocery stores.Use theoil in small quantities for flavouring, not as a cookingmedium.Alsoknownas:hnanzi (Burma),mayau (China),gingelly, til ka tel(India),gomaabura (Japan),chankehroom (Korea),minyakbijan (Malaysia),thalatel(SriLanka),daume(Vietnam).

SesamepasteSesameseeds,whenground,yieldathickpastesimilartopeanutbutter.StoresspecialisinginMiddleEasternfoodssellasesamepasteknownastahini,butthisis made from raw sesame seeds, is white and slightly bitter, and cannot besubstituted for theChineseversion,which ismade from toasted sesameseeds,and is brown and nutty.A suitable substitute is peanut butterwith sesame oiladdedforflavour.Sesamepasteissoldintinsorjars;itkeepsindefinitelyafteropening.

SesameseedsUsed mostly in Korean, Chinese and Japanese food, and in sweets in otherSoutheast Asian countries. Black sesame, another variety known as hak chihmah(China)orkurogoma(Japan),ismainlyusedintheChinesedessert,toffeeapples,andasa flavouring (gomashio)mixedwithsalt inJapanese food.Alsoknownas:hnansi(Burma),til,gingelly(India),wijen(Indonesia),keh(Korea),bijan (Malaysia), linga (Philippines), thala (SriLanka),ngadee la (Thailand),me(Vietnam).

ShrimpsauceAlthoughnotwidely distributed asbagoong (Philippines)orpetis (Indonesia),thisissoldatAsiangrocerystoresas‘shrimpsauce’or‘shrimppaste’.Thickandgreyishincolour,withapowerfulodour,itisoneoftheessentialingredientsinthe food of SoutheastAsia. Substitute dried shrimp paste (blacan) or anchovysauce.

SpringrollpastryThin,whitesheetsofpliablepastrysoldinplasticpacketsandkeptfrozen.Thawandpeeloffoneatatime(unusedwrapperscanbere-frozen).Largewrappersofthewontontypecannotbesubstituted.

StaraniseBotanicalname:IlliciumverumThedried,star-shapedfruitofanevergreentreenativetoChinaandVietnam,itusually consistsof eight segmentsorpoints. It is essential inChinesecookingandisoneofthekeyflavoursinthestockfortheVietnamesericenoodlesoup,pho.Alsoknownas:bahtgok(China),badian(India),bungalawang(IndonesiaandMalaysia),poykakbua(Thailand),hoi(Vietnam).

TamarindBotanicalname:TamarindusindicaThe tamarind is a sour-tasting fruit of a large tropical tree. It is shaped like alargebroad(fava)beanandhasabrittlebrownshell,insidewhichareshinydarkseedscoveredwithtangybrownflesh.Tamarindisdriedintoapulpandsoldinpackets, aswell as dilutedwithwater and sold as a purée. These can vary inconcentration.Thepulpneedstobesoakedfirstinhotwater,thensqueezeduntilit breaks up and dissolves. It needs to be strained before using. May besubstituted with lemon juice. Also known as:ma-gyi-thi (Burma), ampil tum(ripe), ampil kheei (green) (Cambodia), imli (India),mal kham (Laos), asam(Malaysia and Indonesia), sampalok (Philippines), siyambala (SriLanka), sommakham(Thailand),me(Vietnam).

TapiocaflourAlsoknownastapiocastarch,itismadefromthedriedwashingsofthecassavaroot. The flour provides a crisp coating on foods that are fried and is used inmakingmanyAsiansweets.Usedtomakesagoandtapiocapearls.Alsoknownas:lingfun(China),tikhoor(India),katerapohom(Indonesia),tapioka (Japan),tepungubikayu(Malaysia),pangmun(Thailand).

TaucheoSeesaltedsoybeans.

TofuThereisanabundanceofvarietiesofthisversatilesoyproductavailable.Freshtofu,orbeancurd,isfoundintherefrigeratorsectionofAsiangrocerystoresandmost large supermarkets. It comes inmany forms: silken, soft or firm. Silkentofu is sweeter andmore delicate than firm tofu, with a different texture andflavour.Onceopened,tofuwillkeepfor2–3daysintherefrigeratorifimmersedincoldwater that ischangeddaily.Dried tofu issold inflatsheetsorroundedsticksandneedsnorefrigeration.Ithastobesoakedbeforeuse–thesticksneedlongersoakingandcooking.Deep-friedtofupuffsarealsoavailable.Redtofuismuchmorepungent than fresh tofu,andhasa flavour likesmellycheese. It issoldinbottlesandusedincertainsauces.Alsoknownas:dowfoo,doufu,doufu-ru (China), tahu (Indonesia), doufu-kan, abura-age, yuba (Japan), taukwa(Malaysia), tojo, tokua (Philippines), tao hu, forng tao hu (Thailand), dau hu(Vietnam).

TurmericBotanicalname:CurcumalongaA rhizomeof the ginger family, turmeric,Arhizome of the ginger family, turmeric, with its orange-yellow colour, is amainstay of commercial curry powders. Though often called Indian saffron, itshould never be confused with true saffron and the two may not be usedinterchangeably.Alsoknownas:fanwin,sanwin(Burma),romiet (Cambodia),wonggeungfun (China),haldi (India),kunyit (Indonesia),ukon (Japan),kunyit(Malaysia),dilau (Philippines),kaha (SriLanka),khamin (Thailand),cú nghê,ngh(Vietnam).

VietnamesemintBotanical name:Persicaria odorata andodoratum Variously known as laksaleaves,VietnamesecorianderandCambodianmint, thiseasy topropagateherbdeliversanonetoosubtlekicktolaksa,aswellassaladsandotherdishes.Ithasacurious,slightlynumbingeffectonthetongue.Alsoknownas:cheesanghom,cheepwarngtejakoon(Cambodia),phakpheo(Laos),daunkesom,daunlaksa(Malaysia),daun kesom, daun laksa (Singapore),phak phai, phrik maa, chanchom,homchan(Thailand),rauram(Vietnam).

WaterchestnutsBotanicalname:EliocharisdulcisUsedmainlyfortheirtextureinAsiancooking.Sometimesavailablefresh,theirbrownishblackskinmustbepeeledawaywithasharpknife,leavingthecrisp,slightlysweetwhitekernel.Theyarealsoavailableintins,alreadypeeledandinsomeinstancessliced.Afteropening,storeinwaterintherefrigeratorfor7–10days,changing thewaterdaily.Yambean(jicama)maybesubstituted ifwaterchestnut is unavailable. Dried, powdered water chestnut starch is used as analternative to cornflour (cornstarch) for coating delicatemeat such as chickenbreastwhendeep-frying,asithelpslockinthejuices.Alsoknownas:yethiteirthee (Burma), mah tai (China), pani phul (India), tike (Indonesia), kuwai,kurogu-wai (Japan), apulid (Philippines), haeo-song krathiem, haeo cheen(Thailand),gonung(Vietnam).

WinterbambooshootsSeebambooshoots.

WontonwrappersSmallsquaresoffreshnoodledoughavailableatmostsupermarketsandAsiangrocery stores. They can be refrigerated for up to 1week if well wrapped inplastic, or can be wrapped in foil and frozen. Sold by weight, there areapproximately60wrapperstoa300g(10½oz)packet.

WoodearfungusBotanicalname:AuricalariapolytrichaAlsoknownasblackfungus,cloudearfungus, tree Also known as black fungus, cloud ear fungus, tree ear fungus,mouseearorjellymushroom,woodearfungusissoldbyweight,andinitsdrystate looks likegreyishblackpiecesof tornpaper.Soaked inhotwater for10minutes, it swells to translucent brown shapes like curved clouds or a ratherprettily shaped ear – hence the name ‘wood ear fungus’.With its flavourlessresilience it is aperfect exampleof a texture ingredient, addingno tasteof itsown but taking on subtle flavours from the foodswithwhich it is combined.Cook for only 1–2 minutes. Also known as: kyet neywet (Burma), wun yee(China),kupingjamu(Indonesia),kikurage(Japan),kupingtikus(Malaysia),hedhunu(Thailand).

Yambean(jicama)Botanicalname:PachyrhizuserosusandP.angulatusCuriously, the growers’notes say this plant of the legume family, which bears seed pods, has tuberswhichmaybeboiled likeapotato.That is the last thingIwoulduse themfor.Themainappealofyambean is thesweetcrispcrunchof itswhite,uncookedflesh.Iwouldrecommendusingitraw,peeledandslicedordiced,insaladsorsweets; or even lightly cooked in stirfries, where it might retain some of itscharacteristic crunch. Yam beans are a very acceptable substitute for waterchestnuts,when theyareunavailable.Alsoknownas:saagot,dou-su (China),sankalu (India), bengkowang (Indonesia), kuzu-imu (Japan), bangkwang,singkwang (Malaysia), singkamas (Philippines),man kaew (Thailand), cu san(Vietnam).

YellowbeansauceSeesaltedsoybeans(taucheo).

ToReuben,whomarriedmebeforeIlearnedtocook.

Completelyrevisedandupdatedin2011Firstpublishedin1976

Thiseditionpublishedin2013byHardieGrantBooksHardieGrantBooks(Australia) HardieGrantBooks(UK)GroundFloor,Building1 DudleyHouse,NorthSuite658ChurchStreet 34–35SouthamptonStreetRichmond,Victoria3121 LondonWC2E7HFwww.hardiegrant.com.au www.hardiegrant.co.uk

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system ortransmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise,withoutthepriorwrittenpermissionofthepublishersandcopyrightholders.

Themoralrightsoftheauthorhavebeenasserted.

Copyrighttext&design©HardieGrantBooksCopyrightphotography©AlanBensonACataloguing-in-PublicationentryisavailablefromthecatalogueoftheNationalLibraryofAustraliaatwww.nla.gov.auTheCompleteAsianCookbook:Thailand,Vietnam,Cambodia,LaosandBurmaeISBN9781743581735

PublishingDirector:PaulMcNallyProjectEditor:HelenWithycombeEditor:ArianaKlepacDesignManager:HeatherMenziesDesignConcept:MurrayBattenPhotographer:AlanBensonStylist:VanessaAustinProduction:ToddRechner

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The Complete Asian Cookbook Series: Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodida, Laos & Burma

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