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Sweetening Cosmetics!
Our story on functionalized sugars
Antalya Congress – 14/16 Febuary 2014
16415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
2
Agenda
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Part I : Sugar unveils its history
Chronology
Our perception of sugar
Sugar & biology
Sugar & skin
Part II : Sugar unveils its sustainable side
Our functionalized sugars
SEPPIC & sustainable development
Part III : Sugar unveils its sensorial and efficacy
Functionalized sugars – Sensorial assets
Functionalized sugars – Strong moisturizers
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
3
Part I : Sugar unveils its history
Chronology
Our perception of sugar
Sugar & Biology
Sugar & Skin
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
4
Part I : Sugar unveils its history
Chronology
-1000 BC sugar is present in Africa.
it reaches India and China « Sarkara »
-600 BC it reaches the Persian empire
Greek and Romans use Sugar as a
therapeutic ingredient (Megasthènés)
600 to 800 – extension of sugar cane
through the Arabic empire.
First sirups for cooking are created
1096 –First crusades, the pilgrims discover the sweet taste of
sugar.
The European adventure starts.
XV century Venice has the trade monopol for sugar, then to
overcome this situation, Portugal with slave trade starts producing
sugar un Madeira and Brazil.
France starts also producing in Martinique and Guadeloupe islands
1747 –Mr Marggraf isolate for the 1st time
the sugar from beetroots in a solid form.
1806 – Continental blocus that increases
the British domination on sea. Napoleon
decides to push the mass production of
sugar using Beetroots.
Today, beetroot sugar represents 30% of theworldwide production.
Yearly average consumption25.5kg/person
=70gr/day
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
5
Part I : Sugar unveils its history
Our perception of sugar!
From the 50’s
Sugar is part of the post war
reconstruction effort, it gives strenght!
The concept of nutrient is born!
The 60’s
Sugar represents youth, vitality,
team spirit, freedom,
emancipation!
The 80’s
Products « free from »
« fat free » « diet » are
born, sugar and fat are
evil! Problem: products
are also « free from »
...taste....
The 90’s go back to basics,
rediscover taste
food becomes the first medecine,
BSE crisis creates a gap and
sugar is considered a
trusthworthy value, natural origin
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
6
Part I : Sugar unveils its history
Our perception of sugar!
2000 – reconciliation of women and sugar through 4 aspects:
Intelligent women = sugar is nutrient for the brain
Active women = sugar is nutrient for your muscles
Balanced women = sugar is part of a balanced nutrition
Women of taste = Sugar is taste, pleasure and conviviality
Nowadays – who would want a world without
sugar?
the world would be dehumanized without
pleasure and taste, sugar is part of the culinary
legacy
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
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Part I : Sugar unveils its history
Sugar & Biology
glucose
IMMEDIAT USE
Glucose can be used directly by all cellsmost needy are neurons 4gr/hour
Cellular respiration
aim : ATP production
Step 1:Glycolysis with pyruvate
formation
Step 2:Krebs Cycle
Step 3:respiratory chain
RESERVES
Glycogen is stored in the liver and released under glucose whenever needed
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
8
Part I : Sugar unveils its history
Sugar & Skin
Skin dialogue
Cells need to
communicate between
themselves and their
environment to survive
membrane receptors
mostly glycoproteins
mediators most of them
glycoproteins are
involved in protection,
hydration, soothing
response etc...
Sugars can be
considered the dialogue
molecules
Skin architecte
Sugars are the DNA
backbone through
Ribose and
desoxyribose
Sugars are structural
components of cells
membrane –
Glycolipids and
glycoproteins
Skin hydric reserves
Sugars are the most
important water
reservoir of the whole
human body Hyaluronic
acid, chondroïtin
sulfate, dermatan
sulfate etc....
trap 1000 times their
weight in water and act
as natural protective
cushions
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
9
Part II : Sugar unveils its sustainable side
Our functionalized sugars
SEPPIC & sustainable development
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
10
Part II : Sugar unveils its sustainable side
Our functionalized sugars
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ORAMIX™ CG 110
ORAMIX™ NS 10+
foaming agent
SOLAGUM™ AX
SOLAGUM™ TARA
tran
sfo
rma
tio
n
polymer
+
active
AQUAXYL™
OLIGOGELINE ™
+MONTANOV™ range
SIMULGREEN™ 18-2
FLUIDANOV™ 20X
emulsifier
RSPO memberRoundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil
possible
source
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
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Part II : Sugar unveils its sustainable side
SEPPIC & Sustainable development
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Sustainable development = core of our growth strategy
Innovate with the benefit of simplicity of form, process or production
time
technologies to decrease the environmental impact; cold process
GREEN
TECHNO
EASY
Patent solutions that provide real added value
Portfolio of 150 families of patents / 10 to 15 patents per year
Encourage green chemistry (12 principles of green chemistry) and
vegetable-based chemistry
Measurement by 14C dosage for the renewable origin of our products
Managment of natural resources with recent aquisition of BIOTECHMARINE
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
12
Part III : Sugar unveils its sensorial and efficacy
Functionalized sugars – Sensorial assets
Functionalized sugars – Strong moisturizers
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
1313
Formula:
Solagum AX 2 %
Caprilic/Capric Triglycerides 20%
Water Up to 100%
Functionalized sugars – Sensorial assets
SOLAGUM ™ AX – to smooth and soften the skin
Use test: In vivo sensorial evaluation after 14 days of use
Protocol:
20 volunteers with dry
skin (<50 a.u.)
2 applications/day
Application zone : Leg
Questionnaire
of the panelists observed a More moisturized,
smoother and softer skin, after 14 days of use.77%6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
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Less stringy
Less sticky
Panelist response
Functionalized sugars – Sensorial assets
SOLAGUM ™ TARA – to improve the texture
Use test: In vivo sensorial evaluation
A new way to bring natural soft texture to your formulas !
65% of trained panelists observed a less sticky feel, and 80% a less stringy texture
compared to the formula made with 2% Xanthan Gum at an equivalent viscosity
Sensory evaluation based on 2 formulas
(emulsions) with same viscosity : 24,900
mPa.s
Formula EU7237A:
Aqua Up to 100 %
Glycerin 3.00 %
Caprylic capric Triglycerides 12.00 %
Propanediol Dicaprylate 5.00 %
MONTANOV TM L 3.00 %
SOLAGUM ™ TARA 0.8 %
SEPITONIC TM M3 1.00 %
Benzyl Alcohol & Dehydrioacetic Acid 0.6 %
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.03 %
Tocopherol 0.05 %
Fragrance 0.05 %
Formula:
Xanthan Gum 2.00 %
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
15
Functionalized sugars – Sensorial assets
SIMULGREEN™ 18-2 – skin comfort approved
Use test: In vivo sensorial evaluation effect after 14 days of use
Formula:
SIMULGREEN 18-2 3%
Caprilic/Capric
triglycerides
20%
SOLAGUM AX 0.5%
SEPICIDE HB 1%
Aqua/Water Up to 100%
Protocol:
20 volunteers with dry skin
(<50 a.u.)
2 applications/day
Application zone : Leg
Questionnaire
of the panelists observed pleasant texture,
moisturized sensation and comfort sensation.90%More than
Tolerance
Poduct
efficacy
General
appreciation
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
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Functionalized sugars – Sensorial assets
MONTANOV™ range & SIMULGREEN™ 18-2 –
wide range of textures and skin feel
Compact
CO
NS
IST
EN
CY
SENS ORY
Liquid
RichPowdery
Vanishing
Quick
absorption
Thick lotion to
cream
SIMULGREEN™
18-2
Consistency
agent
Neutral skin feel
MONTANOV™
14
Spray to thick cream
Light
skin feel
Ultra-white
emulsions
MONTANOV™
L
MONTANOV™
202
Thick lotion
To fluid cream
Light skin feelMONTANOV™
82
Spray to thick cream
Rich skin feel
Cream
Rich skin feel
MONTANOV™
68
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
17
Functionalized sugars – Strong moisturizers
SOLAGUM™ AX - 3 hours moisturizing effect
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Significant results (p<0.01) in comparison with the untreated control zone
In vivo moisturizing effect - corneometry
Formula:
Caprilic/Capric triglycerides 20%
SOLAGUM AX 2%
SEPICIDE HB 1%
Aqua/Water Up to 100%
(treated zone/untreated zone)
Protocol:
20 volunteers with dry skin
(<50 a.u.)
Single application
Application zone : Leg
Corneometer
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
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Functionalized sugars – Strong moisturizers
MONTANOV™ range - 5 hours moisturizing effect
(treated zone/untreated zone)
In vivo moisturizing effect - corneometry
Protocol:
20 volunteers dry skin (<50 u.a)
Single application
Application zone : leg
Corneometer CM825
Formula:
MONTANOV 3.00%
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 20.00%
SIMULGEL EG 0.50%
Aqua/Water Up to 100%
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
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Functionalized sugars – Strong moisturizers
SIMULGREEN™ 18-2 - 8 hours moisturizing effect
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(treated zone/untreated zone)
Significant results (p<0.01) in comparison with the untreated control zone
In vivo moisturizing effect - corneometry
Formula:
SIMULGREEN 18-2 3%
Caprilic/Capric triglycerides 20%
SOLAGUM AX 0.5%
SEPICIDE HB 1%
Aqua/Water Up to 100%
Protocol:
20 volunteers with dry skin
(<50 a.u.)
Single application
Application zone : Leg
Corneometer
Liquid crystals promoters: Optical microscope
examination
polarized light (D7)Scanning electronic microscope
image (M1)
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
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Functionalized sugars – Strong moisturizers
Functionalized sugars – Strong lipid & water booster
AQUAXYL™ - 24 hours boosting effect
1
Increases water reserves and water
circulation
In vivo Corneometry results
3% vs placebo 20 volunteers
*p<0.5
2
Reinforces the cutaneous barrier
Ex Vivo skin explants
3% topical application vs glycerin
*p<0.5 / control
Aquaxyl in formulation at 3%Glycerin in formulation at 3%
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
Functionalized sugars – Strong moisturizers
OLIGOGELINE ™ :
Plant silicone – hydrating active ingredient
«Film Forming» Effect (In-vivo)
showing water-loss reduction
(TEWL – 27% in 3h).
Carrageenans bind with skin
proteins, without occlusive
effect.
Reinforces & Stimulates
Keratinization thanks to
minerals.
216415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
22
Conclusion – Hydration around the clock!
Solagum AX
combining
sensoriality with
external water-
binding
Montanov™ range
Bringing moisture
thanks to their liquid
crystal structure
Simulgreen™ 18-2
extending moisture
thanks to their liquid
crystal structure
Aquaxyl™ increases
water reserves and
repairs skin barrier
Oligogeline™
Hydrate & protecte
the skin with film
forming effet.
Silicone touch
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
HIMALAYA CREAM
White cream
Packaging : jar
Head to toe Ecocert cold cream! For body, feet, hands.
The good SOS gesture for very dry skin.
Shea butter, sweet almond oil : immediate nourishing comfort for very dry skin!
AQUAXYL™ increases reserves and circulation of water in different skin layers. A real anti-dehydration shield!
Enhanced moisturizing efficacy in vivo with SIMULGREEN™ 18-2 due to liquid crystals
SOLAGUM™ AX brings a pleasant moisturized veil
SIMULGREEN 18-2 et SOLAGUM AX emulsify-stabilize an high quantity of oils, included 12% shea butter.
>95% natural origin ingredients
AS40031
Hands
Feet
Body
A Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
SOLAGUM™ AX
Tocopherol
12.00%
10.00%
1.00%
0.10%
B Aqua / Water
SIMULGREEN™ 18-2
Qsp 100%
3.00%
C Dehydroacetic Acid
Parfum / Fragrance
AQUAXYL™
0.60%
0.15%
3.00%
Appearance White cream
pH 5.4
Viscosity 1M at RT 20 000 mPa.s Brookfield S64S6
Stability 1M at RT, at 45°C & at -18°C
6415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
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Thank you!
n°6179/GB/01/March 20136415/TU/01/Febuary 2014KimyaKongreleri.org
4. Kozmetik Kimyasi, Üretimi, Standardizasyonu Kongresi, Kimyagerler Dernegi, 14-16 Subat 2014, Antalya
2525
Contacts
Nota
The analytical specifications warranted are only those mentioned on the certificate of analysis supplied with each delivery of the product.
Except as set forth above, SEPPIC* makes no warranties, whether express, implied or statutory, as to the product which is the subject of this document. Without limiting
the generality of the foregoing, SEPPIC* makes no warranty of merchantability of the product or of the fitness of the product for any particular purpose. Buyer assumes all
risk and liability resulting from the use or sale of the product, whether singly or in combination with other goods. The information set forth herein is furnished free of
charge and is based on technical data that SEPPIC* believes to be reliable. It is intended for use by persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and risk.
Since conditions of use are outside SEPPIC*'s control, SEPPIC* makes no warranties, express or implied, and assumes no liability in connection with any use of this
information. Nothing herein is to be taken as a license to operate under or a recommendation to infringe any patents.
* SEPPIC being :
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FRANCE FRANCE Minato-ku, Tokyo 108-8509 ITALY
Tel. : +33 (0)1 42 91 40 00 JAPAN Tel : +39 02 38009110
info.seppic@airliquide.com Tel : +81 3 6414 6725 italy.seppic@airliquide.com
japan.seppic@airliquide.com
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30, Two Bridges Road, suite 210 CCIF Rua Libero Badaro, 182
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USA POLAND BRAZIL
Tel. : +1 973 882 5597 Tel : +48 22 690 68 73 Tel : +55 11 3242 3911
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SINGAPORE UAE Tel. : +49 (0) 2203-89830-20 COLOMBIA
Tel : +65 6278 6711 P.O. Box 546638 germany.seppic@airliquide.com Tel : +571 702 44 48
singapore.seppic@airliquide.com Tel : + 971 (4) 2395565 colombia.seppic@airliquide.com
dubai.seppic@airliquide.com
SEPPIC China SEPPIC Mumbai
Room 2909 Nan Zheng Building B-110, Knox Plaza
580 West Nan Jing Road MindSpace, Off Chincholi bunder rd
Shanghai 200041 Malad (W) Mumbai – 400064
CHINA INDIA
Tel : +86 (21) 64 66 01 49 Tel : +91 22 42726464
china.seppic@airliquide.com india.seppic@airliquide.com
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