Post on 24-Dec-2015
Soup & Sauce Cookery“The sauce to
meat is ceremony;
Meeting were bare without
it.”-Shakespeare
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 20111
Fall 2011CHRM 1120/O'Donnell2
“Oh là là c'est beaucoup d'estragon!”
“Ce n'est pas une sauce pour une petite fille.”
Cookware: Material: Aluminum Cheap and Good Heat Conductor Proteins Tend to Stick REACTIVE
Using a metal spoon or whisk release aluminum into the broth or sauce
Will discolor white sauces Anodized Aluminum (Calphalon)
Expensive Non-Reactive Dark (Can’t see carmelization)
Fall 2011CHRM 1120/O'Donnell3
Cookware: Material: Copper EXPENSIVE, and Great Heat Conductor Copper must be lined
All copper pots must not be used for cooking TOXIC Cooking sugar and meringue are the exceptions
Tinned, wears off in time Clad with Stainless SteelUnlined
Copper
Clad Stainless-Steel & Copper
Fall 2011CHRM 1120/O'Donnell4
Cast Iron Cheap and Good Conductor Reactive (Some-what less when “seasoned”) Turns Light Sauces Dark or Grey
Enameled Cast Iron Expensive Non-Reactive Chips Easily
Steel Cheap Good Conductor Reactive (Some-what less when “seasoned”)
Cookware: Material: Iron/Steel
Fall 2011CHRM 1120/O'Donnell5
Used for Eggs and Delicate Proteins like Fish
Scratches Easily…Use Plastic, Silicone or Wood Utensils
Generally can not be put into a hot oven…toxic fumes!
Not practical for integral sauces as little fond will form in the pan
Cookware: Material: Non-Stick
Fall 2011CHRM 1120/O'Donnell6
A Sauce Pan with Sloping-Sides
Cookware: Sauteuse, Évasée or Saucier
Curved sides eliminate hard
to reach corners in the
pan Sloping sides increase
surface area for reduction
while concentrating flavors towards
the bottomFall 2011CHRM 1120/O'Donnell7
Cookware: Casserole* or Saucepot*Don’t confuse with a dish used to make an American casserole
Fall 2011CHRM 1120/O'Donnell8
Choosing the Right Pan The Correct Size
Will items fit or be crowded? Too large of pan?
For severe reductions, changing pans may be necessary.
The Correct Shape Tall and narrow like a stockpot? Short and wide like a saucier? Curved or square bottom?
Heaviness and Type of Material Risk of scorching/burning? Reactive?
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Choose the Correct Pan for the Job!
Choose the right-sized pan. For 1 quart of sauce/soup what sized pan?
Choose the correct shape pan. Do you want evaporation/reduction or not?
Choose the best pan possible. Heavy? Cast Iron? Copper? Non-Reactive?
Fall 2011CHRM 1120/O'Donnell10
Cookware: Chinois & China Cap
Fine Chinois
Course Chinois or China Cap
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Cookware: Immersion Blender
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Cookware: Blender Vita-Prep/ Vita-Mix The Standard of Industry
Don’t fill more than ½ way with hot liquids!
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Cookware: Bain Marie
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Stock (Fonds, fr.)“A flavoured liquid base for making a sauce, stew or braised dish.”-Larousse
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201115
Stocks Used to facilitate making integral
sauces Integral sauces are sauces prepared
directly from the juices that are released by meats and fish during cooking.
Used as a base for soups & stews Used as cooking medium for braises,
poaching & simmering Utilizes less-expensive cuts of
meat, meat trimmings, and bones
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201116
Stocks Losing Importance in Modern American Kitchens Less fabrication of meat primals…less available bones
Extra Labor Decreasing use of non-integral sauces…more sauces are lighter pan sauces
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201117
Stock, Bouillon (Fr.), Brodo (It.) & Broth
The terms Stock, Bouillon and Broth are similar and often used interchangeably.
Broth, Bouillon or Brodo is a flavorful stock made principally of meat or seafood and may be seasoned. It is often served as is.
Stock is principally made of bones and is typically unseasoned. It serves as a base or fond of sauce or a stew
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201118
A Quality Stock Great Depth of Flavor and Clarity Body
Presence of Gelatin (especially in meat & poultry stocks)
Vegetable, Fish, Seafood and some Light Stocks would have little or no gelatin.
Depth of Flavor is Determined by: Quality of Ingredients Ratio of Solids to Liquid Length of Cooking Time“Deep” flavor isn’t always desired,
occasionally a light stock is preferred…for cooking rice or vegetables for example.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201119
Quality of Ingredients• Bones and carcasses should be fresh and
meaty.– Frozen bones that were fresh when frozen are
OK• Choose bones high in gelatin when needed.• For white stocks, bones should be blanched.• Vegetables and aromatics should be fresh
and of high quality.• Bones and vegetables should be cut to an
appropriate size for the cooking time.• COLD water or a COLD Remouillage
(Remoistened previously cooked stock bones)
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201120
Quality of Ingredients A stockpot is not a garbage disposal Trimmings need to be clean, wholesome and appropriate
Use of trimmings can help control costs
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201121
Blanching Bones• Not all chefs agree…• Removes impurities and maybe flavor
– Produces a cleaner, clearer stock– For White Stocks (no Roasting)
1. Rinse the bones, cover them with water in a high stockpot
2. Bring to a boil over high heat3. Skim and Strain4. Proceed with stock recipe5. Fish bones are NOT blanched due to
short cooking time
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201122
Ratio of Solids to Liquids
• COLD liquid should cover the solids by no more than 2 inches.– 50%-75% Nourishing Element (Bones and Meat
Trimmings)– 50%-75% Mirepoix
– ½# onion, ½# leek (or 1# onion), ½# carrot, ½# celery– Bouquet Garni– 100% LiquidEx. 2# bones+2# mirepoix+3# cold water (3 pints,
or 6 cups)• Liquid is simmered at a LOW and gentle
simmer* and liquid is replaced as it evaporates.
* One bubble per second.CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201123
Mirepoix Cut mirepoix according to cooking time
¾”-1” pieces for chicken stock, 2”-3” lpieces for beef, smaller for fish and shellfish
Add mirepoix after stock has simmered for 30 minutes and has been skimmed
*Too much mirepoix or overcooking it may result in too much sugars released from the vegetables.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201124
Mirepoix 50% Onion, Peeled
Leek may substitute for ½ of the onion
25% Carrot, Washed & Peeled
25% Celery, (optional) Celery may be too
assertive from some applications
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201125
Types of Mirepoix “White Mirepoix”
Replaces carrots with parsnips and may include leeks and mushrooms
“Matignon” aka., “Edible
mirepoix”, usually includes ham, bacon or pork product, mushrooms and herbs
Cut more uniformly and used for garnish
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201126
Types of Mirepoix Cajun Mirepoix or “Holy
Trinity” Onion, Celery & Green Bell
Pepper Italian Mirepoix or
“Soffritto” Sautéed in Olive Oil and may
add Garlic, Fennel and Leeks Spanish Mirepoix or
“Sofrito” May include Tomatoes, Chiles
Asian Mirepoix Ginger, Garlic & Scallions
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201127
Leeks Leeks contain albumin that helps
clarify stocks. A “White Mirepoix”, substitutes leeks
for onion. Use only the white and light green
parts.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201128
Bouquet Garni or Sachet A mixture of herbs used
to flavor stocks and other preparations
Consists of thyme sprigs, parsley stems, bay leaf, celery leaves, and a few peppercorns
Tied together in leek greens or in cheesecloth (Sachet d'épices)
Add during the last 30 minutes of cooking
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201129
Cooking Time• Large beef or veal bones require a
much longer simmer…6-24 hours• Chicken bones…3-4 hours• Fish Bones…30 minutes• Vegetable…30 minutes• Brown Stocks longer than White
Stocks• Overcooked = bitter and saline;
Undercooked = weak and watery
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201130
Clarity of Stock• Blanching Bones• Begin with COLD water or stock
– (Stock will be cloudy at first. The stock will clear as it cooks.)
• A Slow and Gentle Simmer, 185˚F• Do not stir• Skimming (dépouillage) Frequently• NEVER BOIL, Stock will be greasy and
cloudy• Be careful if using a cover, Stock
may boil
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201131
Seasoning Stock• Stock is usually NOT seasoned (with
salt and pepper) to allow for use in different applications.
• A broth usually IS seasoned and used for a specific application.
• Vegetable stock may be seasoned because it is cooked for a very short period of time and salt heightens the flavor of the vegetables.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201132
Stock: 3 Types• White Stock
– Prepared with clean and/or blanched meat and bones moistened with cold water
– May provide gelatin and a more subtle background flavor and aroma than brown stock
• Brown Stock– Prepared with meat and/or bones that have been browned on the stove top or roasted
– Have a richer and more complex flavor than white stock**This is not always preferred!
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201133
Gelatin• Clear and Flavorless• Provide stock a smooth and rich texture or “mouth-feel”
• Extracted from bones and cartilage– Veal Bones and Feet are HIGH in gelatin.– Chicken Wings and Feet are also HIGH in gelatin.
– Fish Bones have very little or no gelatin.
– Pork Bones and Rind are HIGH in gelatin but have a very assertive pork flavor and lots of fat.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201134
Making Stock Goal: Maximize Flavor and Minimize
Cost Meats supply savory flavor and
increase cost Defray the cost by utilizing the
cooked meat in other preparations Bones supply gelatin and minimal
flavor
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201135
Making Stock Onion Brulée
A charred onion used to darken and flavor brown stock or broth.
Vietnamese Pho Soup uses charred onion and ginger to flavor and color the broth
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201136
Fumet• A Strongly Flavored and Aromatic
Fish Stock finished with an acid such as white wine or lemon juice
• Oily Fish (Tuna, Salmon, Mackerel, etc.) would not be used because of their pronounced flavor
• Fish bones would NOT be blanched• Mirepoix is cut small• 30-45 minutes cooking time
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201137
Court Bouillon (Short-Broth)• Classically, a quick acidulated
vegetable stock used for poaching fish, veal, chicken or offal
• Refined, may be served clear• Nage, refined and served with cut
vegetables• Also, a quick stock/broth made with
smaller bones and mirepoix• Used as a stock or broth to save time• Used to augment a weak broth• Used to infuse flavors, (ex. lamb bones in
chicken stock to make a lamb short stock)
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201138
Court Bouillon (Short-Broth) con’t.• Prepared:
– À la nage (“swimming”) as in a fish served in broth
– Au vin blanc, with white wine– Au vin rouge with red wine– Au vinaigre, with white wine vinegar– Au blanc, with milk– Au bleu, FRESHLY killed, cleaned and
lightly poached trout
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201139
Vegetable Stock May use some salt to bring out the
flavor of the vegetables. Avoid asparagus, brassicas
(broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, etc.) and potatoes
Roasting, sweating and caramelizing improves aroma and flavor
30 minutes cooking time
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201140
Other Specialty Stocks Lamb Stock for Scotch Broth Pork or Ham Stock Shrimp Shells, Lobster Bodies for
Bisque Dashi, Kombu (Seaweed) & Bonito
(Fish) Flakes Fundamental to Japanese Cuisine Base to Miso Soup
Tomato Stock for Tomato Sauces
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201141
Reductions & Glazes Reduction
Concentrating stocks by boiling or simmering them to evaporate part of the water producing more flavor and body.
Glazes (Glace, fr.)) A stock reduced by 50-90% , until it has a syrup-like consistency and coats the back of a spoon.
Glazes become solid and rubbery when chilled. Glazes are not usually reconstituted as stocks because their flavor has been intensified by the prolonged cooking.
“Glace de viande” or Meat glaze “Glace de volaille” or Chicken glaze “Glace de poisson” or Fish glaze
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201142
Making a Glace
Reduce the stock over moderate heat…Skim Frequently
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201143
Making a Glace
Move to smaller pans as sauce reduces and strain
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201144
Making a Glace
Check consistency
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201145
Straining Stock Carefully decant the stock form solids and strain through a fine chinois lined with two layers of moistened cheesecloth.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201146
Cooling and Storing Cool Stocks QUICKLY…Use an Ice Bath, Ice Paddles and Smaller Containers (Beef broth is used for Petri dishes!)
From 135˚F to 70˚F within 2 Hours and then 70˚F to below 41˚F within 4 hours
Degrease stock before using.
Stocks may kept frozen for months.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201147
Commercial Bases HIGH in sodium
Sodium essential as a preservative Check first ingredient
You Pay for Quality Used by MOST Food Services Saves on Labor Provides Consistency and Efficiency Boost Weak Stocks
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201148
9 Stock Making Rules1. Use quality fresh ingredients.2. Start in cold water.3. Simmer gently…DO NOT BOIL.4. Skim frequently…When in doubt, skim
again.5. Do not stir.6. Strain carefully and gently.7. Cool quickly.8. Store properly.9. Degrease before using.
Fall 2011CHRM 1120/O'Donnell49
Making a White Stock1. Rinse the Bones (Use only fresh or
frozen bones and rinse under COLD water.)
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201150
Making a White Stock2. Simmer the Bones (Cover the bones
with COLD water and slowly bring to a bare simmer.)
Cover bones by 2 inches
of cold water.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201151
Making a White Stock2. Simmer the Bones (Cover the bones
with COLD water and slowly bring to a bare simmer.)
It is normal for the
stock to be cloudy
initally.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201152
Making a White Stock2. Simmer the Bones (Cover the bones
with COLD water and slowly bring to a bare simmer.)
A “bare simmer”
equals 180˚F or 1 bubble per second
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201153
Making a White Stock3. Skim Often.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201154
Making a White Stock4. Add cold water as need. (Keep bones
covered.)
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Making a White Stock5. Add the Mirepoix (After the stock has
simmered for 1-2 hours.) Simmer for 1 more hour or so.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201156
Making a White Stock6. Add the Bouquet Garni (After mirepoix
and bones have simmered.) Simmer for 30 more minutes.
or use a Sachet
d’Epices
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201157
Making a White Stock7. Strain (Carefully remove bones and
mirepoix and strain through cheesecloth and chinois.)
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201158
Making a White Stock8. Cool (Use an ice bath, smaller pots,
ice paddles, and/or a blast chiller.)
Cool to 70˚F within 2 hours and
below 41 ˚F within 4 hours.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201159
Making a Brown or Dark StockSame Procedure as making a white stock
except:
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Making a Brown or Dark StockThe Bones are Roasted and Mirepoix are
Caramelized.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201161
Making a Brown or Dark StockThe Bones are Roasted and Mirepoix is
Caramelized.
Mirepoix should be cut larger
to accommodate
longer cooking times. CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201162
Making a Brown or Dark Stock
Tomato paste is sautéed with the roasted mirepoix
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201163
Making a Brown or Dark Stock
Not painted on, as some recipes say…CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201164
Making a Brown or Dark Stock
…It has a tendency to burn and taste bitter.CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201165
Making a Brown or Dark Stock
Roasted Bones Are Added and covered with COLD WaterCHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201166
Making a Brown or Dark Stock
Simmer Beef/Veal 8-12 hours, Chicken 4-6 hoursCHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201167
Making a Brown or Dark Stock
Skim FrequentlyCHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201168
Making a Brown or Dark Stock
Add Bouquet Garni for the last 30 minutes of cooking
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201169
Making a Brown or Dark Stock
Carefully remove the solidsCHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201170
Making a Brown or Dark Stock
Strain, Chill and DefatCHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201171
Making a Brown or Dark Stock
Strain, Chill and DefatCHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201172
Each Team of 4 Students: Brown Veal Stock
This will be completed by staff after class White Chicken Stock
This will be completed in class Pressure –Cooked White Chicken Stock
Intro to a pressure cooker Vegetable Stock Chicken Noodle Soup
You will make a chicken broth for this soup
Today’s Lab:
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell Fall 201173