Post on 22-Dec-2015
Q. What are the two
ADD: chief purposes of hair?
A.Protection
B. Adornment
Add to the side bar:
Hair is an appendage of the skin
TRICOLOGY
scientific study of hair, its diseases, and care
comes from Greek words:
Trichos=hair
ology=the study of
INTEGUMENT
~the outer covering that encloses the entire
bodyincludes the hair, skin, and nails
is the largest and fastest growing organ body
Hair:
A slender, threadlike filament of protein keratin which is an appendage or outgrowth of the scalp and body.
hair is divided into two parts:
Hair shaft
~projects above the skin
Hair root
~located below the surface of the scalp
HEALTHY HAIR
Proper nutrients required.
Amino acids:
Twenty amino acids make up hair. The body produces only 11 of the 20.The remainder must come from diet.
Proteins: Proteins like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy products are good sources of these amino acids as are food combinations like peanut butter and bread, rice and beans, and beans and corn
Structures of the Hair Root
The main structures are:
Follicle
Bulb
Dermal papilla
Arrector pili muscle
Sebaceous glands
Follicle
~ tube-like pocket in the scalp
~ contains the hair root
~ distributed all over the body
~ except
*palms of the hands
*soles of the feet
~ multiple hairs/one follicle
The follicle
“Tunnel” epidermis (outer layer of the skin)
dermis (inner layer
of the skin)
dermal
papillaInternet source: acne-site.com
Hair bulb-the lowest area or part of the hair strand.thickened, club-shaped part of the hair root
fits over and covers the
dermal papillaInternet
source:
Missinglink.ucsf.edu
Dermal papilla
~ cone-shaped
~ base of the hair follicle
~ fits into hair bulb.
contains the blood and nerve supply
provides nutrients
Arrector pili:
tiny, involuntary muscle
~ base of the hair follicle.
Fear or cold
~ contract
“goose bumps”www.unexpectedpages.com/.../goosebumps.jpg
Sebaceous glands
~ oil glands
~connected to the hair follicles.
~ secretes oily substance
~sebum
~lubricates
Structures of the Hair Shaft
Three main layers
1. Cuticle
~ outermost layer of hair
~ overlapping layer of transparent, scale-like cells
~ shingles on a roof
~provides a barrier/protects inner structure
~ creates shine, smooth silky feelhair’s primary defense against
damage
Internet source:
the gentle touch.com
Individual cuticle scales are attached to the cortex
The hair has only one cuticle layer
Q. Why are we cautioned that there is only one cuticle layer?
Swelling the hair:
~ raises the cuticle layer
~ opens the space between the scales
~allows liquids to penetrate
Haircolor, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers must have an alkaline (base) pH to penetrate the cuticle layer
Swells cuticle/lifts/exposes cortex
Internet source:
Hairdressersus.com
Damaged cuticle
Cortex-is the middle layer of the hair
~ fibrous protein
~melanin pigment
Q. What does the word melanin mean?
~ elasticity of the hair
~ natural color
~ located in the cortex
all changes (physical or chemical) take place within the cortex
Medulla-the inner most layer
~ composed of round cells
*missing medulla
~ very fine hair
~ naturally blonde hair
~coarse hair contains a medulla
All beard hair contains a medullanot involved in salon services
Add to side bar:
Until a child has became the age of puberty. Their hair has not fully matured and has no Medulla
THE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
composed of protein in the hair follicle.
This is where the hair shaft begins
living cells form
journey upward through the hair follicle
process called keratinization.
As the cells mature
~ fill up with a fibrous protein
~keratin
~move upward
Killerstrands.blogspot.com
~ lose their nucleus
~ die
~ emerges from the scalp,
~ cells are keratinized
~ no longer living
~ keratinized protein
~ 90% protein
~long chains of amino acids
Main elements: (chemical composition)
Carbon Oxygen
Hydrogen
Nitrogen Sulfur
Amino acids- long chains of protein
•linked together like pop beads (candy
necklace) The chemical bond
that joins the amino acids to each other is called a peptide bond
or end bond.
•A long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds is called a polypeptide.
•spiral shape of coiled protein is called a helix.
THE SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX
•made up of millions of polypeptide chains
•Polypeptide chains are cross-linked by three different
types of side bonds:
•Hydrogen bonds
•Salt bonds
•Disulfide bonds
•incredible strength
•elasticity
Backreaction.blogspot.com
Easily broken by water or heat
Accounts for 1/3 of hair’s strength
Hydrogen bond
weak physical side bond
Salt bond
weak physical side bond
Broken by changes in the pH
-strong alkaline or acidic solutions
Accounts for 1/3 of hair’sstrength
Disulfide bond
~chemical side bond
accounts for 1/3 overall strength
Not broken by heat or water
~ permanent waves
~ chemical relaxers
~ chemically change disulfide bonds
Thio permanent waves (base)
~ break the disulfide bonds
~ reformed by thio neutralizer (acid)
Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers
~ break disulfide bonds
~ bonds are broken permanently
(becomes lanthionine bond)
~ can never be reformed
Read: Table 9-2
Read: Did you knowBond
Bond Type Strength Broken By Re-formed By
Hydrogen Side Bond Weak Physical Water or heat Drying or cooling
Salt Side Bond Weak Physical Change in ph Normalizing ph
Disulfide Side Bond Strong Chemical
1.Thio perms and thio relaxers2.Hydroxide relaxers
1.Oxidation with neutralizer2.Converted to lanthionine bonds
Peptide End Bond Strong Chemical
Chemical depilatories
Not re-formed: hair dissolves
result of genetics
General rule:
Asians
~extremely straight hair
Caucasians
~straight to wavy hair
African Americans
~extremely curly hair
Extremely Curly Hair
long twisted spirals
coiled hair
~fine texture
low elasticity
breaks easily
~tends to knot
HAIR ANALYSIS
all services begin:
~analysis of client’s hair type
~condition
*determines the results that can reasonably be expected
different types of hair
~react differently to the same service
performed prior to all services
Factors:
texture
elasticity
porosity
density
growth pattern
dryness/oiliness
HAIR TEXTURE
thickness or diameter
~ individual hair strand
coarse
medium
fine
different areas of the head
~may have different textures
Fine texture
smallest diameter
fragile
easier to process
more susceptible to damage from chemical services
Determined
~ by feeling a single dry strand
~ between the fingersTake an individual strand from:
• Front hairline
• The temple
• The crown
• The nape
hold the strand securely
~ feel it with the thumb and forefinger of the
other handfeel the difference between
~ coarse
~ medium
~ fine
HAIR DENSITY
measures
~ number of individual hair strands
~ on one square inch
how many on one person’s head
same hair texture
~different densities
i.e.
Coarse hair texture
~ low density (thin)
fine hair texture
~ high density (thick)
average hair density
~ 2,200 hairs per square inchaverage head
~ 100,000 hairs
~ varies with the color
blondes high density
redheads lowest
Table 9-3
Q. How do we determine what the amount of density is?
a. Use fingers to feel the hair
b. Look at the scalp area
c. Ask the client how dense they think their hair is
d. Ask another stylist to help us decide
HAIR POROSITY
ability of the hair to absorb moisture
condition of the cuticle layer
compact cuticle layer
~ resistant to penetration
porous hair/raised cuticle
~ easily absorbs moisture
low porosity
~ resistant
~ more alkaline solution
~ longer processing time
alkaline solutions
~ raise the cuticle
permit uniform
~ saturation and processing
High porosity
~ overly porous
~ result of over processing
~ damaged
~ dry
~ fragile and brittle
~ less alkaline solutions (lower pH)
Technicurl.com
*slide the thumb and forefinger of the other hand
*3-4” from the end
*to the scalp three times
Determining the results:
no hair or nearly no hair
~very resistant
small amount
~resistant
medium amount
~average or normal
a lot of hair comes down=porous
most of the hair comes
down=overly porous
Q. How strong should the chemical solution be for this kind of hair?
Q. What four areas of the head should be checked?
HAIR ELASTICITY
Ability of the hair to
~stretch and return
~original length
~without breaking
Indication of the strength of the side bonds
wet hair with normal elasticity
~ stretch up to 50% of its original length
~ return without breaking
Dry hair stretches 20%
***will hold the curl from wet sets and permanent waves
low elasticity:
~ brittle
~ breaks easily
does not hold curl
low elasticity
~ overprocessedmilder solution
~ lower pH
ELASTICITY TEST
Check elasticity
~wet hair
~individual strand
Hold a single strand of wet hair
~ try to pull it apart
***Also called a pull test
stretches and returns to
~ original length without breaking
~ normal/good elasticity
breaks easily
~ fails to return to its original length
~ it has low/poor elasticity***crinkles=bad
Q. Describe texture and give the classifications and how to tell.
Q. What are the classifications for density?
Q. Explain what porosity is, its classifications and the test for porosity.
Q. Define elasticity, list classifications, describe the test.
GROWTH PATTERNS
important
~ shaping and styling hair
Q. Does the hair tend to grow straight out from the head at a 90 degrees angle?
growth patterns
~streams, whorls, and cowlicks
Hair stream:
•flowing same direction
•follicles sloping same direction
•two streams opposite directions
~ form a natural part
Internet source:
Justformom slides.com
Cowlick:
•Tuft of hair
~ stands straight up
•Usually at the front hairline
•May be located anywhere
Internet source:
Hairboutique.com
DRY HAIR AND SCALP
inactive sebaceous glands
dry winters
hair appears dull, dry and lifeless
moisturizers and emollients
OILY HAIR AND SCALP
Causes:
improper shampooing
overactive sebaceous glands
greasy buildup on scalp
oily coating
normalizing shampoo
Well-balanced diet
Exercise
Regular shampooing
Good personal hygiene
will control oily hair and scalp
On adults:
•Forehead
~ eyelids
~ bald scalp
•Nearly all other areas
Except:
~ palms of hands
~ soles of feet
THE GROWTH CYCLES OF HAIR
occurs in cycles
repeated over and over again
Anagen-growth phase
Catagen-transition phase
Telogen-resting phase
Average growth
~ ½ inch per month
About 90% of hair
~ in Anagen phase
~ lasts 3-5 years
~ to 10 years
Catagen: The Transition Phase
Brief transition period
~ signals the end of growth
~ follicle canal shrinks
~ detaches from the dermal papilla
Hair bulb disappears
Less than one percent of hair is in this phase at one time
Very short,
lasts 1-2 weeks
Internet source:
Hairrestoration.com
Telogen : the Resting Phase
Final phase
Lasts until the fully grown hair is shed
or until the next new hair pushes out the old
Myths:
Shaving, etc:
no effect on hair growth
Scalp massage:
no evidence
Gray hair more resistant
same as pigmented hair (I beg to differ)
Natural curl determined by race:
anyone can have any degree of curl
HAIR LOSS
Normal daily hair loss
~ three phases
Average daily hair loss
~ 75-100 hairs (this is the answer we want)
Information we want you to know:
Write on the side: Facts
•The average life span of hair is 4-6 years
•Everyone sheds 75-100 hairs per day
•Hair does not grow after death
•Eyebrows and eyelashes are replaced every 4-5 months
63 million people in US
~ suffer from abnormal hair loss (alopecia)
you will be the first person people will come to with questions
FYI: Causes of Hair Loss
Poor circulation Stress
Thyroid disease High blood pressure
Iron deficiency Pregnancy
Liver malfunction Chemotherapy
B & vitamin deficiencies Skin Disease
Large doses of Vitamin A High fever
Cholesterol Sudden weight loss
Alcohol and caffeineMedications
THE EMOTIONAL IMPACT OF HAIR LOSS
medical community
~ not a medical condition
anguish
~ very real
~ overlooked
Bald men are perceived as:
•Less physically attractive (by both sexes)
•Less assertive
•Less successful
•Less personally likeable
•Older (by about 5 years)
How shallow we can be???
Bald men perceive themselves:
Experience negative
~ social and emotional effects
Preoccupied with their baldness
Make effort
~ conceal
~ compensate
TYPES OF ABNORMAL HAIR LOSS
Abnormal hair loss
~alopecia
Most common types are:
Androgenic alopecia
Alopecia areata
Postpartum alopecia
Androgenic/androgenetic alopecia
The result
~ genetics
~ age
~ hormonal changes
~ miniaturization of terminal hair
*converting it to vellus hair
Can begin in the teens
~frequently by 40
male pattern baldness
horseshoe-shaped
fringe
In women
~ generalized thinning
~ crown area
Sacimdokuluyor.com
Add to side bar:
Alopecia Senilis:
baldness due to old age
Alopecia Prematura:
baldness that begins before middle age
Alopecia areata
sudden falling out
~ patches
~ baldness in spots
scalp and body
unpredictable skin disease
autoimmune disease
~ hair follicles
~ attacked by immune system
White blood cells
~ stop hair growth
(anagen phase)
Usually begins
~ one or more
~ round, small
~ smooth patches on the scalp
Can progress total scalp hair loss
~ alopecia totalis
males and females
~ begins in childhood
~ no signs of inflammation
~ no skin disorder or disease
Or complete body hair loss
~ alopecia universalis
POSTPARTUM ALOPECIA
Temporary hair loss ~conclusion of a pregnancy
Very little hair loss during pregnancy
Sudden and excessive shedding from 3-9 months after
delivery
Returns to normal within one year
Internet source Ezinearticles.com
Estrogen stimulates hair follicles
~ anagen growing phase
~ hair does not cycle as it normally would.
***After child is born
~ estrogen level drops
~ hair enters the catagen and telogen phase
~ very traumatic
~ returns to normal
one year
Add to side bar:
Telogen Effluvium:
Premature shedding in resting phase
Possible causes:
difficult childbirth fever
shock drug intake
crash diets
Add to side bar:
Traumatic Alopecia:
Hair loss due to repetitive traction on the hair by pulling or twisting
Possible causes:
~ excessive application of chemicals
(perms/relaxers)
~ excessive use of hot combs
HAIR LOSS TREATMENTS
Minoxidil and Finasteride
~ have been proven to stimulate hair growth
~ approved by FDA
Minoxidil
~ topical medication
~ applied to scalp
~ twice a day
www.thehairlossclinicstore.com/store/media/mi...
Myth: Hair loss is inherited from your father Fact:
Both parent's genes are a factor.
Androgenetic aplopecia is genetically-linked hair thinning.
Internet source: Myths and facts about hair loss:
Myth:
Teasing, using hair color, other products, or frequently washing hair increases hair loss.
Fact: Normal hair care doesn't affect hair loss.
Finasteride
~ oral prescription medication
~ for men only
~ more effective
~ more side effects
~ women can not use
~ pregnant women
causes birth defects
Surgical options:
Transplant or hair plugs
~ removing small sections of hair
~ follicle, papilla, and bulb from the back
~ transplanting in the bald area.
The bulb grows normally in the new location
Surgeons
Several surgeries
$8,000-$20,000
Add to side bar:
medical treatment
scalp reduction
Learn to fit
~ color
~ cut
~ style wigs and toupees
Weavings and extensions
~ enhance client’s natural hair
~ boosts their self-esteem
DISORDERS OF THE HAIR
CANITIES
~ gray hair
~ loss of the natural melanin pigment
~ same as pigmented hair
Two types:
Congenital Canities
~ exists at or before birth
~ occurs in albinos
~ can be patchy
Add:
Albino-person born with no coloring matter, resulting in white hair
Acquired Canities
~ develops with age
~ result of genetics.
~ may develop
* worry
* anxiety
* prolonged illness
Hypertrichosis
~ hirsuities
~ abnormal growth of hair
~ terminal hair in areas of vellus hair
~ mustache or light beard on women
Remember: Hyper=excess hair
treatments include
~electrolysis ~photoepilation
~laser hair removal
~tweezing ~shaving
~electronic tweezers
~depilatories
~threading ~sugaring
Trichoptilosis
split ends
treatments:
~ conditioning to soften
~ remove by cutting
Remember: Chop=needs cutting or “chop off”
Trichorrhexis Nodosa
knotted hair
~ brittleness
~ formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaft
~ hair breaks easily
~ broken fibers spread out like a brush along hair shaft
Treatments:
~ conditioners
~ moisturizers
Remember: Trichorrhexis nodosa
-Needs correcting
-nodosa-nodules
Monilethrix
beaded hair
~ breaks easily between the beads or nodes
Treatments:
~ hair and scalp conditioning
Fragilitas crinium
brittle hair
~ may split at any part of their length
Treatment:
~ hair and scalp conditioning
Remember: Fragile=brittle
DISORDERS OF THE SCALP
outer layer
~ shed
~ replaced by new cells
Small
~ dry flakes
~ without being noticed
dry scalp-(not dandruff)
~ has smaller
~ less noticeable flakes
contact dermatitis, sunburn, or extreme age
worse in cold, dry climates
Medical term for dandruff:
Pityriasis
excessive production and accumulation of skin cells
large visible clumps of cells
dandruff is the result of a fungus called malassezia
Malassezia
naturally occurring fungus
present on all human skin
symptoms when it grows out of control
stress, age, hormones, and poor hygiene can cause symptoms to worsen
antidandruff shampoos contain antifungal agents
pyrithione zinc, selenium sulfide, or ketoconazole
suppresses the growth of malassezia
School’s of thought go back and forth as to dandruff being contagious. Mrs. Kucas and I feel that dandruff is contagious. (contradicts your book)
Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disorder
Two principal types:
Pityriasis capitis simplex:
•technical term for classic scalp inflammation
• dry dandruff
• large {thin} flakes
• itchy scalp
Add to side bar:
Dry dandruff is the result of a sluggish scalp caused by:
• poor circulation
• lack of nerve stimulation
• improper diet
•emotional and glandular disturbances
•poor personal hygiene
Treatments include:
antidandruff shampoos
conditioners
topical lotions
Scalp treatments and regular scalp massage will also help
Pityriasis steatoides
•more severe
•accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales
•mixed with sebum
•stick to the scalp in patches or crusts
•When accompanied by redness and inflammation is:
“seborrheic dermatisis”
•Can be found in eyebrows/beards
•Client should be referred to a physician for medical treatment
FUNGAL INFECTIONS (TINEA)
TINEA
•ringworm
•itching, scales, and sometimes, painful circular lesions
•Several may be present at the same time
•A fungal (vegetable) organism is not an animal parasite
•All forms are contagious
•Easily transmitted
FYI: Infected skin scales and hairs that contain the fungi are known to spread the disease
•Bathtubs
•Swimming pools
•Unsanitary personal articles
•Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of
this disease•Clients with this condition should be referred to a physician for medical treatment
TINEA CAPITIS
Add to side bar: Ringworm of the scalp
• Characterized by red papules, or spots
•at opening of the hair follicles
•patches spread
~hair brittle and lifeless
•hair often breaks off
•leaving only a stump
•may be shed from the enlarged open follicle
Tinea favosa
Add to side bar:
honeycomb ringworm
•dry
•sulfur-yellow, cup-like crusts
•on the scalp called scutula
•distinctive odor
Scars: bald patches that may be pink or white and shiny
ADD:very contagious-refer to physician
Doctorfungus.org
Tinea capitis
Tinea favosa
SCABIES
•itch is a highly contagious skin disease
•itch mite burrowing under the skin
ANIMAL PARASITIC INFECTIONS
•vesicles (blisters)
•pustules (inflamed pimples with pus)
•usually form on the scalp from the irritation caused by this animal parasite
•excessive itching makes the condition worse
Clients with this condition should be referred to a physician for medical treatment
•Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread
of this disease
PEDICULOSIS CAPITIS
•infestation
~ hair and scalp
~ head lice
•feed on the scalp
~ dead skin cells
•itching
~ scratching can cause an infection
•transmitted
• contact with infested hats, combs, brushes and other personal articles
•you can distinguish them from dandruff flakes by looking
closely at the scalp with a magnifying glass
• Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disease
• Several nonprescription medications are available
•Clients with this condition should be referred to a physician or pharmacist
FYI
Recently on the news, they reported that the lice are becoming resist to the shampoos that kill the lice. This means the lice will be much harder or impossible to get rid of.
STAPHYLOCOCCI INFECTIONS
•Are bacteria that infect the skin or scalpFuruncle:
• boil is an acute localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain
• limited to a specific area
• produces a pustule perforated by a hair
Carbuncle:
•inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue
~ caused by staphylococci
•similar to furuncle only larger