Post on 04-Jun-2018
8142019 Moving Mountains - Action Asia Magazine
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullmoving-mountains-action-asia-magazine 14
A snowy valley in the western Himalayas
the greatest yatras or spiritual journeymake and joining them can be just as upl
Momount
Story and photog
62 India
8142019 Moving Mountains - Action Asia Magazine
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullmoving-mountains-action-asia-magazine 24
64
mdash N983151983158983141983149983138983141983154D983141983139983141983149983138983141983154 983090983088983089983091
called chillum bareoot and smilin
as they headed on into the snow
mountain heights (and highs)
here we were a happy mob o
pilgrims transiting the roo o the worl
alone together in the blinding sun an
boundless emptiness As we walkedI spoke to one ater another dritin
along the trail rom group to group So
the walk a mountain adventure or st
prayers and wishes or relatives to be
birth o a grandson For all though
the sum o its parts neither purely a t
kind o itinerant estival a movable ea
when gathered together in its great unr
I walked into the sprawling squa
and wind o the late afernoon settlin
the sum o Rs400 (US$620) rash an
paths o the encampment across th
barbed-wire coils and sandbagged bun
impassively surveying the perimeter o
When night ell the light dying
mountains above us I ventured out to
where the devout served up endless
squatting with metal plates balanced
dal and curried potatoes with hunks oTe night was a kind o happy ma
through the camp and thousands o r
darkness their numbers echoed by th
the crisp mountain air Back in my tent
A HINDU PILGRIMAGE IS OFEN AS MUCH ABOU SOCIOLOGY
as it is religion as much an endurance event as a spiritual practice his is
especially true in Kashmir Standing at the windy exposed pass at Pissu op
3800 metres up these were my reflections as I watched the muddy slope ar
below me teem like a kicked anthill alive with 10000 pilgrims
I was there because I loved India and because there is no route into
Indiarsquos heart ndash huge diverse and unruly ndash more inviting than a pilgrimage
or yatra where the intense emotional energy o the subcontinent is thrown
fiercely into motion A yatra is the spiritual element o the human elevated
to its rapturous extreme and this three-day trek to the ancient Shiva cave
at Amarnath hidden deep in a snow-choked valley in the remote western
Himalaya is considered by many to be its finest and most arduous example
undertaken by more than 600000 people during the Hindu holy month o
Shraavana each summerMany people o course had told me not to go there Political violence
and unrest in Kashmir closed roads and brought paramilitary crackdowns
in 2008 and again in 2010 [there were yet more problems during the
preparation o this article in October 2013] Yet in July 2011 as I walked on
beyond Pissu op and into the gorgeous green alpine river valley beyond
it was not discord that struck me but
instead a great serenity Hindu pilgrims
and Kashmiri Muslim l abourers
alike were processing in their motley
thousands through the valley which
was dotted with scattered grey boulders
crusts o old snow and herds o grazing sheepIn this throng were represented all castes and places and kinds Lawyers
and pensioners rom Delhi and Mumbai jostled with computer programmers
and students and call-centre workers rom Kerala and Gujarat Sufi Muslims
rom the lake town o Srinagar muddy in their long grey tunics were
stoically bearing elderly Hindu pilgrims alof on crude litters made o lawn
chairs rope and bamboo
Above them deep and saturated as the sea was the luminous cobalt o
the sky and beyond them and among them their orange robes like vivid
blazes marking the distance to the ar horizon huge groups o wandering
sadhus hese Hindu holy men were dreadlocked shirtless and emaciated
backs bare to the fierce mountain sun puffing clouds o hashish in clay pipes
64 India
UPLIFTING SETTING
Sunset on the mountains at the end
of the first dayrsquos trek
INDIA
DelhiNEPAL
CHINA
Srinagar
PAKISTAN
Jammu
8142019 Moving Mountains - Action Asia Magazine
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullmoving-mountains-action-asia-magazine 34
66
mdash N983151983158983141983149983138983141983154D983141983139983141983149983138983141983154 983090983088983089983091
meagre blanket and sleep came over me like a heavy drug
Early in the rosted morning I went out to see a sadhu perorming Surya
Namaskara the sun salutation acing the coming dawn and bending like a
willow to the ground as the sun broke over the mountains to the east In the
langar tent or breakast I bolted down my morning tea and biscuits and a
group o glassy-eyed boys rom Jammu city took my hand and dragged me
outside where dozens o pilgrims were spontaneously dancing to spiritual
music mixed with some kind o house beat everyone rom bent-backed old
women to schoolchildren clapping and busting a move
It was hard to imagine a more unusual start to a day ndash this whole
itinerant city awake and ecstatic together in the reezing dawn the great
emptiness o the mountains all around us somehow illed and enlarged by
the wild passion o the human beings contained within it I packed up my
things and donned my muddy trekking clothes and began the 700-metrecl imb to the 4270-metre pass at
Mahagunas op the highest point o the
trek more than two hours o slippery
sucking mud ascending the ravaged
mountainside
At the pass the blinding sunlight
glinting o the snow a man approached
me ldquoHe lef his soul here you know Te
saint Bholay Shankar who meditated
there but it is here all around us in th
I blinked at himldquoCanrsquot you eel itrdquo he said to me
around usrdquo
As I descended through the high g
body giddy with oxygen and endorphin
in my mind Indiarsquos penchant or unre
elt nowhere more sharply than here i
Indian military occupation Yet or all
mountains or all the barbed wire an
India66
RAINBOW OF DEVOTIONOn foot or mounted the devout
snake up the hillsides their saris
shirts and scarves vivid against
the dusty track
For all the soldierhere in the mounbarbed wire and neared the holy cremained infectio
laquo
8142019 Moving Mountains - Action Asia Magazine
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullmoving-mountains-action-asia-magazine 44
68
mdash N983151983158983141983149983138983141983154D983141983139983141983149983138983141983154 983090983088983089983091
Arriving at last at the steep snowy
valley with the holy cave rising at its ar
end I dropped my pack at its mouth I
was ilthy stinking and unshaven but
ready to make the acquaintance o Lord
Shiva who Irsquod walked so long to reach
I climbed the long stone stairwayto the yawning mouth o the cave lambent in the semi-darkness with music
spilling out into the dusk here the amous stone lingam stood ndash a divine
phallic symbol o the potency o Lord Shiva covered in its mysterious coat o
summer ice I removed my shoes and bareoot walked on with my blistered
eet through the grit and filthy water moving with the mass o chanting and
prostrating pilgrims onwards into the shadowed reaches o the cave
India I was now sure was the perect place or those inclined to wander
a land ready to accept nomads and seekers rom strange tribes as easily as
it embraced the orthodox Moving beore the lingam I bowed and prayed
with those around me carrying inside me all the passion o my co-pilgrims
all the wild beauty o Indias land and its people and their struggles all the
happy wishes and good things in my heart
A minute later one o the temple minders shoved me roughly along and
on my way out an Indian Army soldier smiled and handed me an orange
scar adorned with Shiva mantras Te whole moment which Irsquod walked two
ull days to experience was over in less than five minutes
Outside the cave looking down on the steep narrow valley below the
hal-moon shone on the snow on the peaked roos o the tents and the stars
were bright as Christmas lights I elt at once supremely alone here in thisdistant place and yet equally a part o an ecstatic whole and I thought there
are many experiences here on Earth but truly none like this this nation that
both overwhelms and humbles me I turned and bowed once more and then
headed downhill into the darkness AA
India68
PRACTICALITIES
When to goThe pilgrimage to Amarnath runs for 35 days during the Hindu lunar
month of Shraavana which begins around late June or early J uly on
the Roman calendar Check the official website at wwwshriamarnath-
jishrinecom for precise dates
How to get thereThe trailheads are near the town of Pahalgam (recommended) or at
Baltal Camp on the Leh-Srinagar Highway For either you will first need
to get to Srinagar then proceed by bus or shared jeep to the trailheads
(both between two and three hours) Srinagar is served by regularflights from New Delhi or can be reached overland via a long (10-hour)
bus or jeep ride from the city of Jammu which has the nearest railway
station
What to takeItrsquos muddy and rain or snow can be expected at any time so bring
good shoes warm clothing and rain gear Simple sleeping kit and tents
are cheaply rented in camps along the way and meals are free in the
communal kitchens Bring snacks money and a first aid k it Do not
leave valuables in your tent
Further info You must register beforehand and bring your permit with you to the
trailhead on the designated date In India you can register at major
branches of JampK Bank YES Bank State Bank of India Punjab National
Bank and HDFC Bank For general information check the official websitewwwshriamarnathjishrinecomindexhtml or contact their Help Desk
Many tour operators can help with arranging permits etc The author
used wwwamarnathjicom for example
This last section of the journey wasalso its most treacherous a long slogup a precipitous slope we footboundpilgrims being crushed and jostled
by an endless line of litter-bearersand hire ponies the muddy path onwhich we trod often less than twometres wide
laquo
raquo
cave the atmosphere remained inectiously positive
At the inal security cordon at Panchtarni a soldier with an AK-47
smiled and gave me bandages or my blistered eet then waved me onwards
past the helicopter landing pad where flight afer flight roared loudly past
errying more well-heeled pilgrims to and rom the distant staging camp at
Baltal a day-long walk to the west
As I trekked the inal six kilometres to the holy cave my anticipationpeaked Tis last section o the journey was also its most treacherous a long
slog up a precipitous slope we ootbound pilgrims being crushed and jostled
by an endless line o litter-bearers and hire ponies the muddy path on which
we trod ofen less than two metres wide and slippery in the steady drizzle
THE MANY AND THE ONE
Left A sea of tents lap at the valley
walls at Sheshnag camp Above
A pilgrim proudly shows off hismantricom symbol haircut
MORE HOLY HIKES ANTherersquos a long tradition of pilgrim
or re-creating such a journey can b
spiritual highs alongside more liter
to connect with locals in a meaning
friendliness of much organised lsquocu
In India especially rivers attr
in the case of the Ganges there
of devotion that are among the
anywhere More widely across the
especially those that stand alone
that are the focus
In both the Hindu and Budd
circling these peaks making ako
the Tibetan for lsquocircumambulatio
a stupa or temple too ndash even sim
encounter on many mountain trac
around a whole mountain is obvio
respect It is worth noting at this p
is often frowned upon and in certa
While walking many pilgrims
or prostrate themselves over a
intended to be meditative the re
free the mind to encourage a mor
The classic kora that many
Kailash in western Tibet but ther
are offered on commercial trips Ad
for example offer two routes the
Kora (shown below)
ldquoThe first is arguably the more
of the twordquo says the companyrsquos fo
route is heavily populated with Kh
in the kora season (typically Sepabsolutely spectacular mountain s
devotees en routerdquo
Bottomley is currently plannin
peak Amne Machen in modern-d
hoping to combine a kora with a tr
Anyone drawn to such journ
should take note too that 2014 se
said to be an especially propitious
8142019 Moving Mountains - Action Asia Magazine
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullmoving-mountains-action-asia-magazine 24
64
mdash N983151983158983141983149983138983141983154D983141983139983141983149983138983141983154 983090983088983089983091
called chillum bareoot and smilin
as they headed on into the snow
mountain heights (and highs)
here we were a happy mob o
pilgrims transiting the roo o the worl
alone together in the blinding sun an
boundless emptiness As we walkedI spoke to one ater another dritin
along the trail rom group to group So
the walk a mountain adventure or st
prayers and wishes or relatives to be
birth o a grandson For all though
the sum o its parts neither purely a t
kind o itinerant estival a movable ea
when gathered together in its great unr
I walked into the sprawling squa
and wind o the late afernoon settlin
the sum o Rs400 (US$620) rash an
paths o the encampment across th
barbed-wire coils and sandbagged bun
impassively surveying the perimeter o
When night ell the light dying
mountains above us I ventured out to
where the devout served up endless
squatting with metal plates balanced
dal and curried potatoes with hunks oTe night was a kind o happy ma
through the camp and thousands o r
darkness their numbers echoed by th
the crisp mountain air Back in my tent
A HINDU PILGRIMAGE IS OFEN AS MUCH ABOU SOCIOLOGY
as it is religion as much an endurance event as a spiritual practice his is
especially true in Kashmir Standing at the windy exposed pass at Pissu op
3800 metres up these were my reflections as I watched the muddy slope ar
below me teem like a kicked anthill alive with 10000 pilgrims
I was there because I loved India and because there is no route into
Indiarsquos heart ndash huge diverse and unruly ndash more inviting than a pilgrimage
or yatra where the intense emotional energy o the subcontinent is thrown
fiercely into motion A yatra is the spiritual element o the human elevated
to its rapturous extreme and this three-day trek to the ancient Shiva cave
at Amarnath hidden deep in a snow-choked valley in the remote western
Himalaya is considered by many to be its finest and most arduous example
undertaken by more than 600000 people during the Hindu holy month o
Shraavana each summerMany people o course had told me not to go there Political violence
and unrest in Kashmir closed roads and brought paramilitary crackdowns
in 2008 and again in 2010 [there were yet more problems during the
preparation o this article in October 2013] Yet in July 2011 as I walked on
beyond Pissu op and into the gorgeous green alpine river valley beyond
it was not discord that struck me but
instead a great serenity Hindu pilgrims
and Kashmiri Muslim l abourers
alike were processing in their motley
thousands through the valley which
was dotted with scattered grey boulders
crusts o old snow and herds o grazing sheepIn this throng were represented all castes and places and kinds Lawyers
and pensioners rom Delhi and Mumbai jostled with computer programmers
and students and call-centre workers rom Kerala and Gujarat Sufi Muslims
rom the lake town o Srinagar muddy in their long grey tunics were
stoically bearing elderly Hindu pilgrims alof on crude litters made o lawn
chairs rope and bamboo
Above them deep and saturated as the sea was the luminous cobalt o
the sky and beyond them and among them their orange robes like vivid
blazes marking the distance to the ar horizon huge groups o wandering
sadhus hese Hindu holy men were dreadlocked shirtless and emaciated
backs bare to the fierce mountain sun puffing clouds o hashish in clay pipes
64 India
UPLIFTING SETTING
Sunset on the mountains at the end
of the first dayrsquos trek
INDIA
DelhiNEPAL
CHINA
Srinagar
PAKISTAN
Jammu
8142019 Moving Mountains - Action Asia Magazine
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullmoving-mountains-action-asia-magazine 34
66
mdash N983151983158983141983149983138983141983154D983141983139983141983149983138983141983154 983090983088983089983091
meagre blanket and sleep came over me like a heavy drug
Early in the rosted morning I went out to see a sadhu perorming Surya
Namaskara the sun salutation acing the coming dawn and bending like a
willow to the ground as the sun broke over the mountains to the east In the
langar tent or breakast I bolted down my morning tea and biscuits and a
group o glassy-eyed boys rom Jammu city took my hand and dragged me
outside where dozens o pilgrims were spontaneously dancing to spiritual
music mixed with some kind o house beat everyone rom bent-backed old
women to schoolchildren clapping and busting a move
It was hard to imagine a more unusual start to a day ndash this whole
itinerant city awake and ecstatic together in the reezing dawn the great
emptiness o the mountains all around us somehow illed and enlarged by
the wild passion o the human beings contained within it I packed up my
things and donned my muddy trekking clothes and began the 700-metrecl imb to the 4270-metre pass at
Mahagunas op the highest point o the
trek more than two hours o slippery
sucking mud ascending the ravaged
mountainside
At the pass the blinding sunlight
glinting o the snow a man approached
me ldquoHe lef his soul here you know Te
saint Bholay Shankar who meditated
there but it is here all around us in th
I blinked at himldquoCanrsquot you eel itrdquo he said to me
around usrdquo
As I descended through the high g
body giddy with oxygen and endorphin
in my mind Indiarsquos penchant or unre
elt nowhere more sharply than here i
Indian military occupation Yet or all
mountains or all the barbed wire an
India66
RAINBOW OF DEVOTIONOn foot or mounted the devout
snake up the hillsides their saris
shirts and scarves vivid against
the dusty track
For all the soldierhere in the mounbarbed wire and neared the holy cremained infectio
laquo
8142019 Moving Mountains - Action Asia Magazine
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullmoving-mountains-action-asia-magazine 44
68
mdash N983151983158983141983149983138983141983154D983141983139983141983149983138983141983154 983090983088983089983091
Arriving at last at the steep snowy
valley with the holy cave rising at its ar
end I dropped my pack at its mouth I
was ilthy stinking and unshaven but
ready to make the acquaintance o Lord
Shiva who Irsquod walked so long to reach
I climbed the long stone stairwayto the yawning mouth o the cave lambent in the semi-darkness with music
spilling out into the dusk here the amous stone lingam stood ndash a divine
phallic symbol o the potency o Lord Shiva covered in its mysterious coat o
summer ice I removed my shoes and bareoot walked on with my blistered
eet through the grit and filthy water moving with the mass o chanting and
prostrating pilgrims onwards into the shadowed reaches o the cave
India I was now sure was the perect place or those inclined to wander
a land ready to accept nomads and seekers rom strange tribes as easily as
it embraced the orthodox Moving beore the lingam I bowed and prayed
with those around me carrying inside me all the passion o my co-pilgrims
all the wild beauty o Indias land and its people and their struggles all the
happy wishes and good things in my heart
A minute later one o the temple minders shoved me roughly along and
on my way out an Indian Army soldier smiled and handed me an orange
scar adorned with Shiva mantras Te whole moment which Irsquod walked two
ull days to experience was over in less than five minutes
Outside the cave looking down on the steep narrow valley below the
hal-moon shone on the snow on the peaked roos o the tents and the stars
were bright as Christmas lights I elt at once supremely alone here in thisdistant place and yet equally a part o an ecstatic whole and I thought there
are many experiences here on Earth but truly none like this this nation that
both overwhelms and humbles me I turned and bowed once more and then
headed downhill into the darkness AA
India68
PRACTICALITIES
When to goThe pilgrimage to Amarnath runs for 35 days during the Hindu lunar
month of Shraavana which begins around late June or early J uly on
the Roman calendar Check the official website at wwwshriamarnath-
jishrinecom for precise dates
How to get thereThe trailheads are near the town of Pahalgam (recommended) or at
Baltal Camp on the Leh-Srinagar Highway For either you will first need
to get to Srinagar then proceed by bus or shared jeep to the trailheads
(both between two and three hours) Srinagar is served by regularflights from New Delhi or can be reached overland via a long (10-hour)
bus or jeep ride from the city of Jammu which has the nearest railway
station
What to takeItrsquos muddy and rain or snow can be expected at any time so bring
good shoes warm clothing and rain gear Simple sleeping kit and tents
are cheaply rented in camps along the way and meals are free in the
communal kitchens Bring snacks money and a first aid k it Do not
leave valuables in your tent
Further info You must register beforehand and bring your permit with you to the
trailhead on the designated date In India you can register at major
branches of JampK Bank YES Bank State Bank of India Punjab National
Bank and HDFC Bank For general information check the official websitewwwshriamarnathjishrinecomindexhtml or contact their Help Desk
Many tour operators can help with arranging permits etc The author
used wwwamarnathjicom for example
This last section of the journey wasalso its most treacherous a long slogup a precipitous slope we footboundpilgrims being crushed and jostled
by an endless line of litter-bearersand hire ponies the muddy path onwhich we trod often less than twometres wide
laquo
raquo
cave the atmosphere remained inectiously positive
At the inal security cordon at Panchtarni a soldier with an AK-47
smiled and gave me bandages or my blistered eet then waved me onwards
past the helicopter landing pad where flight afer flight roared loudly past
errying more well-heeled pilgrims to and rom the distant staging camp at
Baltal a day-long walk to the west
As I trekked the inal six kilometres to the holy cave my anticipationpeaked Tis last section o the journey was also its most treacherous a long
slog up a precipitous slope we ootbound pilgrims being crushed and jostled
by an endless line o litter-bearers and hire ponies the muddy path on which
we trod ofen less than two metres wide and slippery in the steady drizzle
THE MANY AND THE ONE
Left A sea of tents lap at the valley
walls at Sheshnag camp Above
A pilgrim proudly shows off hismantricom symbol haircut
MORE HOLY HIKES ANTherersquos a long tradition of pilgrim
or re-creating such a journey can b
spiritual highs alongside more liter
to connect with locals in a meaning
friendliness of much organised lsquocu
In India especially rivers attr
in the case of the Ganges there
of devotion that are among the
anywhere More widely across the
especially those that stand alone
that are the focus
In both the Hindu and Budd
circling these peaks making ako
the Tibetan for lsquocircumambulatio
a stupa or temple too ndash even sim
encounter on many mountain trac
around a whole mountain is obvio
respect It is worth noting at this p
is often frowned upon and in certa
While walking many pilgrims
or prostrate themselves over a
intended to be meditative the re
free the mind to encourage a mor
The classic kora that many
Kailash in western Tibet but ther
are offered on commercial trips Ad
for example offer two routes the
Kora (shown below)
ldquoThe first is arguably the more
of the twordquo says the companyrsquos fo
route is heavily populated with Kh
in the kora season (typically Sepabsolutely spectacular mountain s
devotees en routerdquo
Bottomley is currently plannin
peak Amne Machen in modern-d
hoping to combine a kora with a tr
Anyone drawn to such journ
should take note too that 2014 se
said to be an especially propitious
8142019 Moving Mountains - Action Asia Magazine
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullmoving-mountains-action-asia-magazine 34
66
mdash N983151983158983141983149983138983141983154D983141983139983141983149983138983141983154 983090983088983089983091
meagre blanket and sleep came over me like a heavy drug
Early in the rosted morning I went out to see a sadhu perorming Surya
Namaskara the sun salutation acing the coming dawn and bending like a
willow to the ground as the sun broke over the mountains to the east In the
langar tent or breakast I bolted down my morning tea and biscuits and a
group o glassy-eyed boys rom Jammu city took my hand and dragged me
outside where dozens o pilgrims were spontaneously dancing to spiritual
music mixed with some kind o house beat everyone rom bent-backed old
women to schoolchildren clapping and busting a move
It was hard to imagine a more unusual start to a day ndash this whole
itinerant city awake and ecstatic together in the reezing dawn the great
emptiness o the mountains all around us somehow illed and enlarged by
the wild passion o the human beings contained within it I packed up my
things and donned my muddy trekking clothes and began the 700-metrecl imb to the 4270-metre pass at
Mahagunas op the highest point o the
trek more than two hours o slippery
sucking mud ascending the ravaged
mountainside
At the pass the blinding sunlight
glinting o the snow a man approached
me ldquoHe lef his soul here you know Te
saint Bholay Shankar who meditated
there but it is here all around us in th
I blinked at himldquoCanrsquot you eel itrdquo he said to me
around usrdquo
As I descended through the high g
body giddy with oxygen and endorphin
in my mind Indiarsquos penchant or unre
elt nowhere more sharply than here i
Indian military occupation Yet or all
mountains or all the barbed wire an
India66
RAINBOW OF DEVOTIONOn foot or mounted the devout
snake up the hillsides their saris
shirts and scarves vivid against
the dusty track
For all the soldierhere in the mounbarbed wire and neared the holy cremained infectio
laquo
8142019 Moving Mountains - Action Asia Magazine
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullmoving-mountains-action-asia-magazine 44
68
mdash N983151983158983141983149983138983141983154D983141983139983141983149983138983141983154 983090983088983089983091
Arriving at last at the steep snowy
valley with the holy cave rising at its ar
end I dropped my pack at its mouth I
was ilthy stinking and unshaven but
ready to make the acquaintance o Lord
Shiva who Irsquod walked so long to reach
I climbed the long stone stairwayto the yawning mouth o the cave lambent in the semi-darkness with music
spilling out into the dusk here the amous stone lingam stood ndash a divine
phallic symbol o the potency o Lord Shiva covered in its mysterious coat o
summer ice I removed my shoes and bareoot walked on with my blistered
eet through the grit and filthy water moving with the mass o chanting and
prostrating pilgrims onwards into the shadowed reaches o the cave
India I was now sure was the perect place or those inclined to wander
a land ready to accept nomads and seekers rom strange tribes as easily as
it embraced the orthodox Moving beore the lingam I bowed and prayed
with those around me carrying inside me all the passion o my co-pilgrims
all the wild beauty o Indias land and its people and their struggles all the
happy wishes and good things in my heart
A minute later one o the temple minders shoved me roughly along and
on my way out an Indian Army soldier smiled and handed me an orange
scar adorned with Shiva mantras Te whole moment which Irsquod walked two
ull days to experience was over in less than five minutes
Outside the cave looking down on the steep narrow valley below the
hal-moon shone on the snow on the peaked roos o the tents and the stars
were bright as Christmas lights I elt at once supremely alone here in thisdistant place and yet equally a part o an ecstatic whole and I thought there
are many experiences here on Earth but truly none like this this nation that
both overwhelms and humbles me I turned and bowed once more and then
headed downhill into the darkness AA
India68
PRACTICALITIES
When to goThe pilgrimage to Amarnath runs for 35 days during the Hindu lunar
month of Shraavana which begins around late June or early J uly on
the Roman calendar Check the official website at wwwshriamarnath-
jishrinecom for precise dates
How to get thereThe trailheads are near the town of Pahalgam (recommended) or at
Baltal Camp on the Leh-Srinagar Highway For either you will first need
to get to Srinagar then proceed by bus or shared jeep to the trailheads
(both between two and three hours) Srinagar is served by regularflights from New Delhi or can be reached overland via a long (10-hour)
bus or jeep ride from the city of Jammu which has the nearest railway
station
What to takeItrsquos muddy and rain or snow can be expected at any time so bring
good shoes warm clothing and rain gear Simple sleeping kit and tents
are cheaply rented in camps along the way and meals are free in the
communal kitchens Bring snacks money and a first aid k it Do not
leave valuables in your tent
Further info You must register beforehand and bring your permit with you to the
trailhead on the designated date In India you can register at major
branches of JampK Bank YES Bank State Bank of India Punjab National
Bank and HDFC Bank For general information check the official websitewwwshriamarnathjishrinecomindexhtml or contact their Help Desk
Many tour operators can help with arranging permits etc The author
used wwwamarnathjicom for example
This last section of the journey wasalso its most treacherous a long slogup a precipitous slope we footboundpilgrims being crushed and jostled
by an endless line of litter-bearersand hire ponies the muddy path onwhich we trod often less than twometres wide
laquo
raquo
cave the atmosphere remained inectiously positive
At the inal security cordon at Panchtarni a soldier with an AK-47
smiled and gave me bandages or my blistered eet then waved me onwards
past the helicopter landing pad where flight afer flight roared loudly past
errying more well-heeled pilgrims to and rom the distant staging camp at
Baltal a day-long walk to the west
As I trekked the inal six kilometres to the holy cave my anticipationpeaked Tis last section o the journey was also its most treacherous a long
slog up a precipitous slope we ootbound pilgrims being crushed and jostled
by an endless line o litter-bearers and hire ponies the muddy path on which
we trod ofen less than two metres wide and slippery in the steady drizzle
THE MANY AND THE ONE
Left A sea of tents lap at the valley
walls at Sheshnag camp Above
A pilgrim proudly shows off hismantricom symbol haircut
MORE HOLY HIKES ANTherersquos a long tradition of pilgrim
or re-creating such a journey can b
spiritual highs alongside more liter
to connect with locals in a meaning
friendliness of much organised lsquocu
In India especially rivers attr
in the case of the Ganges there
of devotion that are among the
anywhere More widely across the
especially those that stand alone
that are the focus
In both the Hindu and Budd
circling these peaks making ako
the Tibetan for lsquocircumambulatio
a stupa or temple too ndash even sim
encounter on many mountain trac
around a whole mountain is obvio
respect It is worth noting at this p
is often frowned upon and in certa
While walking many pilgrims
or prostrate themselves over a
intended to be meditative the re
free the mind to encourage a mor
The classic kora that many
Kailash in western Tibet but ther
are offered on commercial trips Ad
for example offer two routes the
Kora (shown below)
ldquoThe first is arguably the more
of the twordquo says the companyrsquos fo
route is heavily populated with Kh
in the kora season (typically Sepabsolutely spectacular mountain s
devotees en routerdquo
Bottomley is currently plannin
peak Amne Machen in modern-d
hoping to combine a kora with a tr
Anyone drawn to such journ
should take note too that 2014 se
said to be an especially propitious
8142019 Moving Mountains - Action Asia Magazine
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullmoving-mountains-action-asia-magazine 44
68
mdash N983151983158983141983149983138983141983154D983141983139983141983149983138983141983154 983090983088983089983091
Arriving at last at the steep snowy
valley with the holy cave rising at its ar
end I dropped my pack at its mouth I
was ilthy stinking and unshaven but
ready to make the acquaintance o Lord
Shiva who Irsquod walked so long to reach
I climbed the long stone stairwayto the yawning mouth o the cave lambent in the semi-darkness with music
spilling out into the dusk here the amous stone lingam stood ndash a divine
phallic symbol o the potency o Lord Shiva covered in its mysterious coat o
summer ice I removed my shoes and bareoot walked on with my blistered
eet through the grit and filthy water moving with the mass o chanting and
prostrating pilgrims onwards into the shadowed reaches o the cave
India I was now sure was the perect place or those inclined to wander
a land ready to accept nomads and seekers rom strange tribes as easily as
it embraced the orthodox Moving beore the lingam I bowed and prayed
with those around me carrying inside me all the passion o my co-pilgrims
all the wild beauty o Indias land and its people and their struggles all the
happy wishes and good things in my heart
A minute later one o the temple minders shoved me roughly along and
on my way out an Indian Army soldier smiled and handed me an orange
scar adorned with Shiva mantras Te whole moment which Irsquod walked two
ull days to experience was over in less than five minutes
Outside the cave looking down on the steep narrow valley below the
hal-moon shone on the snow on the peaked roos o the tents and the stars
were bright as Christmas lights I elt at once supremely alone here in thisdistant place and yet equally a part o an ecstatic whole and I thought there
are many experiences here on Earth but truly none like this this nation that
both overwhelms and humbles me I turned and bowed once more and then
headed downhill into the darkness AA
India68
PRACTICALITIES
When to goThe pilgrimage to Amarnath runs for 35 days during the Hindu lunar
month of Shraavana which begins around late June or early J uly on
the Roman calendar Check the official website at wwwshriamarnath-
jishrinecom for precise dates
How to get thereThe trailheads are near the town of Pahalgam (recommended) or at
Baltal Camp on the Leh-Srinagar Highway For either you will first need
to get to Srinagar then proceed by bus or shared jeep to the trailheads
(both between two and three hours) Srinagar is served by regularflights from New Delhi or can be reached overland via a long (10-hour)
bus or jeep ride from the city of Jammu which has the nearest railway
station
What to takeItrsquos muddy and rain or snow can be expected at any time so bring
good shoes warm clothing and rain gear Simple sleeping kit and tents
are cheaply rented in camps along the way and meals are free in the
communal kitchens Bring snacks money and a first aid k it Do not
leave valuables in your tent
Further info You must register beforehand and bring your permit with you to the
trailhead on the designated date In India you can register at major
branches of JampK Bank YES Bank State Bank of India Punjab National
Bank and HDFC Bank For general information check the official websitewwwshriamarnathjishrinecomindexhtml or contact their Help Desk
Many tour operators can help with arranging permits etc The author
used wwwamarnathjicom for example
This last section of the journey wasalso its most treacherous a long slogup a precipitous slope we footboundpilgrims being crushed and jostled
by an endless line of litter-bearersand hire ponies the muddy path onwhich we trod often less than twometres wide
laquo
raquo
cave the atmosphere remained inectiously positive
At the inal security cordon at Panchtarni a soldier with an AK-47
smiled and gave me bandages or my blistered eet then waved me onwards
past the helicopter landing pad where flight afer flight roared loudly past
errying more well-heeled pilgrims to and rom the distant staging camp at
Baltal a day-long walk to the west
As I trekked the inal six kilometres to the holy cave my anticipationpeaked Tis last section o the journey was also its most treacherous a long
slog up a precipitous slope we ootbound pilgrims being crushed and jostled
by an endless line o litter-bearers and hire ponies the muddy path on which
we trod ofen less than two metres wide and slippery in the steady drizzle
THE MANY AND THE ONE
Left A sea of tents lap at the valley
walls at Sheshnag camp Above
A pilgrim proudly shows off hismantricom symbol haircut
MORE HOLY HIKES ANTherersquos a long tradition of pilgrim
or re-creating such a journey can b
spiritual highs alongside more liter
to connect with locals in a meaning
friendliness of much organised lsquocu
In India especially rivers attr
in the case of the Ganges there
of devotion that are among the
anywhere More widely across the
especially those that stand alone
that are the focus
In both the Hindu and Budd
circling these peaks making ako
the Tibetan for lsquocircumambulatio
a stupa or temple too ndash even sim
encounter on many mountain trac
around a whole mountain is obvio
respect It is worth noting at this p
is often frowned upon and in certa
While walking many pilgrims
or prostrate themselves over a
intended to be meditative the re
free the mind to encourage a mor
The classic kora that many
Kailash in western Tibet but ther
are offered on commercial trips Ad
for example offer two routes the
Kora (shown below)
ldquoThe first is arguably the more
of the twordquo says the companyrsquos fo
route is heavily populated with Kh
in the kora season (typically Sepabsolutely spectacular mountain s
devotees en routerdquo
Bottomley is currently plannin
peak Amne Machen in modern-d
hoping to combine a kora with a tr
Anyone drawn to such journ
should take note too that 2014 se
said to be an especially propitious