Post on 18-Dec-2015
Forces Generating Waves are Different
Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force
Capillary <0.1 sec Wind Surface tension
Forces Generating Waves are Different
Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force
Chop 1 – 10 sec Wind Gravity
Forces Generating Waves are Different
Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force
Swell 10 – 30 sec Wind Gravity
Forces Generating Waves are Different
Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force
Seiche 10 min – 10 hr Wind/Seismic Gravity(standing wave)
Forces Generating Waves are Different - Summary
Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force
Capillary <0.1 sec Wind Surface tension
Chop 1 – 10 sec Wind Gravity
Swell 10 – 30 sec Wind Gravity
Seiche 10 min – 10 hr Wind/Seismic Gravity(standing wave)
Tsunami 10 min – 2 hr Seismic Gravity
Tide 12.4 or 24.8 hr Gravity Gravity
Tsunamis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBZGH3yieLc&lr=1&feature=mhum
Types of Breaking Waves
Spilling
Result from waves of low steepness (long period swell) over gentle slopes.
Types of Breaking Waves
Surging
Surging breakers surge over steeply sloping (but not vertical) beaches or rocks. Occur where the beach slope exceeds wave steepness.