20th December 2013 Dr. Sanjiv Kamat 1

KITL

Innovations in Textiles for “Footprint” Reduction

20th December 2013 Dr. Sanjiv Kamat 2

KITL Kothari InfoTech Limited

Since 2001, from Surat, India to provide Solutions for Digital Printing on various substrates

Inks Division: Inks Division: Water based high density Charu™Charu™ inks and Disha™Disha™ pre-coatings for Textile substrates(Cotton ,Viscose, Linen, Silk, Wool, Nylon and Polyester)

Textile Machinery Division: Textile Machinery Division: Sales and after sales service for “Ichinose” “Ichinose” printing machines(both conventional and digital)““Rimslow” Rimslow” Loopager for Inkjet textile printing. “DTG Digital” “DTG Digital” for garment printing. “DigiEye” “DigiEye” for non contact colour measurement and QC

Software: Software: Print Pro™, Print Pro™, world class software, for Colour Separation, Colour Correction, Device calibration, Half-toning, Large image data handling, Digital Imaging, Textile coloration, Image composing and Printing. These applications are targeted towards , label printing as well as Wide/Large format digital printing for graphic arts, photography, and Textiles(fabric and garments).

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KITL Water and Energy in Textile processing

ground-water contamination

Soilcontamination

NO xCO2

UFP‘s

CH4

SO2

water

raw material

energy waste water

waste

products

emission

noise

work place

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KITL Carbon Footprint

A Carbon Footprint is a measure of the impact human activities have on the environment in terms of the amount of green house gases produced, measured in units of carbon dioxide

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KITL Global warming

Global warming refers to the increase in average

temperature of the Earths near-surface, air and

oceans in recent decades

The global average air temperature

near earths surface rose

0.74 ± 0.18°C during last 100 years.

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KITL Global Warming

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KITL Global Warming

1 Trillion = 10%Kilowatt hours used every of the total Carbon ImpactKilowatt hours used every of the total Carbon ImpactYear by the global TextileYear by the global TextileIndustryIndustry

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KITL

The water footprint of an individual, community or business is defined as the total volume of freshwater used to produce the goods and services consumed by the individual or community or produced by the business.

Water use is measured in water volume consumed (evaporated) and/or polluted per unit of time. A water footprint can be calculated for any well-defined group of consumers (e.g., an individual, family, village, city, province, state or nation) or producers (e.g., a public organization, private enterprise or economic sector).

Water Footprint

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KITL Environmental impacts of the textile Industry

Chemicals

•25% of the chemicals produced worldwide are used for textiles

» Environmental impact

Water

•Growing of cotton: 8’000 – 40’000 L / kg cotton•Finishing of textiles: up to 700 L freshwater / kg

textile•Waste water in production: up to 600 L / kg textile» Mostly drinking water quality

Energy

•High energy consumption in production, transport, retail and use

» Contribution to global warming

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KITL Definition of a Pollutant

Pollutant is a substance present in the wrong place at the wrong time and in the wrong quantity

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KITL Hazardous Chemicals

Textile wet processing• Accounts for 17-20% of Industrial water pollution

• 72 Toxic Chemicals originate solely from Dyeing

30 of which cannot be removed

9 Trillion 9 Trillion litres of litres of fresh water fresh water is used is used annually to annually to produce 60 produce 60 billion kg of billion kg of fabricfabric

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KITL Fresh water availability

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KITL Effect of Pollution

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KITL

“Invention” can be defined as the creation of a product or introduction of a process for the first time. “Innovation” on the other hand, occurs if someone improves on or makes a significant contribution to an existing product, process or service.

Definition

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KITL

1. Institutions – which are often neglected but are where the innovations happen.2. Markets – where the demand and the finance comes from and3. Technologies – which go hand in hand with innovations

“Innovation is about the smart application of knowledge to solve problems more imaginatively than we have in the past.”

Shaping Innovations

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KITL

EcologyLegislationCostNew SubstrateNew ProcessSpeed for economicsFashion and advertisementProductivity constraintSustainability

Change Agents

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KITL

It is not the strongest of the species that survive, nor the most intelligent

But the most responsive to change

Charles Darwin

Theory of Evolution

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KITL

• Products and processes

• Water Consumption

• Sustainable Fibres

• Coloration without dyes

Innovations pertaining to

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KITL

Natural dyes derived from plant material do not have the problems associated with synthetic yes ,like banned amines ,PCB,PAH etc, however they cannot be used on polyesters

O

O

OH

OHCH3CH2I

KOH, DMSO

alizarin1,2-dihydroxyanthraquinone

O

O

OH

O

1-hydroxy-2-ethylanthraquinone

+ KI, H2O

Natural colours

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KITL

• Reactive dyes having a quartenary nicotinate

• Cationic Reactive Dyes

• Avitera™

• Pigments for Polyesters

• Dyestone™

Colours

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KITL

• Use of Sugars in Sulphur dyeing

•Pre-treatment of cellulose with cationic, nucleophilic polymers to enable reactive dyeing at neutral pH without electrolyte addition

•Enzymes for polyester and also for imparting hydrophilicity oligomer removal

Auxiliaries

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KITL

Fabric

E control™, Pad-Sizeox™

Garments

A blend of “color” and “softener”

Enzyme with tint

Provides ONE STEP stone-wash and tinting effect, abrasion, surface polishing, de-pilling, and body softness on Indigo denim garments.

Enzymatic single bath desizing-bleaching-dyeing process for cotton fabrics

Processes

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KITL PrimaGreen® Process from Genecor

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KITL G2 Process from Jeanologia

Air from the atmosphere is transformed into a blend of active oxygen and ozone called Plasma, which is used to age garments.The plasma is transformed back into purified air before being returned to the atmosphere

Agedgarments

Plasma

Air

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KITL Coloured Silk Cocoons

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KITL Waterless dyeing

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KITL Supercritical COO

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KITL

A fabric roll in the chamber

Control panelPressure storage vessel,

pumps and pipework

SCOO - Machines

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KITL SCOO - Process

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KITL Process

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KITL Process

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KITL Cotton Art-Transfer printing of Natural fabrics- German Dutch

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KITL Ink Jet Printing

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KITL The Digital Advantage • Advantages• No minimums• On demand manufacturing• Efficient sampling• No repeat size• No limit on colors• No color kitchen• No screen engraving• No screen warehousing• No limit on design size• Flexible design possibilities• Reduced waste• Reduced manpower• Environmentally Friendly

• Disappearing Disadvantages• Speed• Cost• Replication of screen prints

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KITL Printers

Printer Classification

Class 14-12 metres per hour

Class 218-90 metres per hour

Class 390-730 metres per hour

Class 465-75 metres per minute

Key FeaturesKey Features

Ability to transport wide variety of fabrics through printer

Able to deliver variety of textile ink chemistries through print head

Either open or closed system for ink and software

DTG-Digitex

MS

Durst

Digitex

Ichinose

Konica MinoltaKonica MinoltaKornit

La Meccanica

Mimaki

Mutoh

OsirisOsirisReggianni

Roland

D-Gen

ZimmerZimmer

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KITL Variables

Ricoh

Epson

Xaar (solvent)

Kyocera

Spectra

Konica Minolta

Fuji Diamatix

HP Scitex

Seico Printek

Kothari Info Tech- KITL

DuPont

Nazdar

Huntsman

Jaysynth

DyStar

Sawgrass

Solunaris/ Jay Chemicals

Print Pro- KITL

Ergosoft

DP innovations

Caldera

DGS

Inedit

Wasatch

Nippon KayakuNippon Kayaku

Heads InksRIPs

StorkStork

Fuji SericolFuji Sericol

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KITL How Green is the Process

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KITL Washing Processes

• 170 gms Cotton T shirt LCA• 2653 litres water ( 45% is

in the usage- 1193 litres• 90 gm fertilizer• 45 gm pesticide• 540 gm fossil fuel

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KITL

• Ozone laundry systems• Replacement of water with polymers• Self cleaning

Washing of garments

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KITL Ozone laundry systems

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KITL

Xeros

Reduction in water during usage

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KITL Problem of Microplastic in Waterways

Microplastic= Plastic debris <1mm

Shorelines at 18 sites across 6 continents contaminated

Forensic evaluation revealed that the microplastic resembled PES and acrylic fibres used in clothing, mainly those sites which receive sewage effluent

PES (67%), Acrylic(17%) and Polyamide(16%)

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KITL Microplastic- the future

A single garment when washed in a machine can shed >1900 fibres per wash

Designers of clothing and washing machines should consider the need to reduce the release and develop methods to remove microplastic from sewage.

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KITL

MinicorCatalytic clothing

Self cleaning fabrics

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KITL Sunlight Washing, Clothes

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KITL

• Eco viscose

Modal Edelweiss™

• Soya• Bamboo

Sustainable, natural, anti bacterial, breathable and cool

Fibres

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KITL

• PLA, Ingeo®, Sorona®

• >Mooo®

Fibres

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KITL Eco Friendly Garments

• Organic Cotton farming requires 25% less water than traditional cotton.• Bamboo: No pesticides required and the fabric is soft to touch • Lycoell: Solvent is recovered/recycled. It is an alternate to Rayon.• Ingeo: This is a man-made fiber by converting corn into a polymer to

make bio- degradable material. It is breathable and has insulation properties of high-performing synthetic material. Requires 68% less energy than polyester and is biodegradable.

• Hemp: A pound of hemp fiber needs a fraction of water needed for a pound of cotton. It does not require pesticides.

• Soy: Soy fabrics use a by-product of Soy Products, namely Soy Milk, Soybean Oil to create a material with a feel and look similar to silk.

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KITL Eco Friendly ? !

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KITL How green is my T-Shirt

4 7 2 18

9 3 1 2

Raw Material

Cotton T-Shirt

Polyester Blouse

Manufacturing Transportation Use

Cotton is cheaper and takes less energy to manufacture than synthetic fibres.But over its lifetime , a cotton T- Shirt requires more than twice the energy than is necessary to manufacture and maintain a polyester blouse. The main difference: polyester garments can be washed at a lower temperature, can hang dry and need no ironing.

Energy used over the life time of the garment, in kilowatt hours.*

Use assumes 25 washes per garment. The cotton T-Shirt is washed at 140 degrees Fahrenheit, followed by tumble-drying and ironing.

The energy of one kilowatt hour will operate a 40-watt light bulb for a full day or a 19” color television for about four hours.

The polyester blouse is washed at 104 degrees Fahrenheit, hung dry and not ironed.

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KITLFermentation Fashion Microbe garments

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KITL Bio couture

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KITL Monster Silk - Spider Silk

Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, the leading developer of advanced spider silk based fibres, has this month delivered the first shipment of its Monster Silk™ recombinant spider silk fibre to Warwick Mills.

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KITL Invisibility

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KITL

3µm

Morpho rhetenor butterfly Peacock feather

Coloration without colorants

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KITL

Teijin Fiber Corporation

Multilayer Optical Interference

MORPHOTEX®

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KITL Fibres imitating Margaritaria Nobilis

Harvard University and University of Exeter,UK

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KITL

Plixel Color Printing*

* A Star Exploit Technologies

Coloration without colours

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KITL

“I think there is a world market for maybe fiveComputers” Thomas Watson, Chairman of IBM, 1943

“Computers in the future may weigh no more than 1.5 tonnes” Popular Mechanics, 1949

“There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home” Ken Olson, Present, Chairman and

Founder of Digital Equipment Corp, 1977

“640k [of RAM] ought to be enough for anybody” Bill Gates, Chairman of Microsoft,1981

Dangers of Prediction

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KITL Endangered species extinction of business

Do not merely react to change

Anticipate and initiate change

Equilibrium is extinction

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KITL

Friday, December 6, 2013 Understanding Environmental Requirements Dr. Sanjiv Kamat 62

Hidden cost of FoodHypothetical carbon footprint calculation of Red wines sold in New York

Manufactured in Cultivation Fermentation Winery Containers Transportation TOTAL

Lore Valley France 210 109 132 479 447 1371

Napa Valley California 214 109 132 633 1425 2515

Emissions are released by using energy to manage the land.Organic methods in France reduce this slightly

Carbon dioxide is a byproduct of the chemical reaction that creates alcohol, a process that begins wityh grape crushing

Energy used for lights, cooling tanks and pumps all result in carbondioxide emmissions

Glass for bottles and wood for barrels-often purchased in France-require energy to make and fuel to import

The napa wine is trucked to New York while the French wine is shipped for most of the trip and then trucked

Grammes of Carbon dioxide per bottle