Haircoloring Special Effects Miladys Standard Cosmetology Cosmetology:

Haircoloring Special Effects

Milady’s Standard Cosmetology

Cosmetology:

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

“Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. The fearful are

caught as often as the bold”

Helen Keller

Objectives• Demonstrate special effects

haircoloring techniques; cap, foil and balayage

• Understand special problems encountered in haircoloring

• List safety precautions in haircoloring

Highlighting• Some strands lighter• Illusion of depth• Does not contrast• Details more visible

Reverse Highlighting• Low lighting• Some strands darker• Dark areas recede

Cap Techniques• Lightener or high-lift color• Rinsed and shampooed• Towel-blotted and conditioned• Toned if desired

Foil Techniques• Sliced or weaved • Placed on foil or plastic wrap• Apply lightener or color• Sections sealed

Foil Patterns• Face-frame• Half-head• Three-quarter head• Full-head

• Waterproof cape• Towel• Foil• Gloves• Plastic clips• Bowl/brushes

• Tail comb• Applicator brush• Lightener• Record card• Applicator bottle

Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements

• Do patch test• Do client consultation• Remove and store jewelry• Drape client• Shampoo, towel dry• Do strand test

• Slice hair at crown area

• Brush on lightener• Fold foil• Use comb to crease• Clip foil

• Clip hair up• Continue down back center• Release the clipped up foils• Divide into 2 sections• Apply lightener

• Move to other side• Move to top• Apply lightener• Continue to front• Process according to strand test

• Remove foils, shampoo, rinse• Apply glaze• Work into hair; process• Rinse, shampoo, condition• Style as desired

• Perform cleanup and sanitation• Rinse and disinfect• Record results

Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Cleanup and

Sanitation

Balayage• Lightener

applied• Subtle effects

Toning• Nonoxidative toner• Traditional semipermanent• Demipermanent

• Used when:– Slight change desired– Hair processes rapidly– Highlight natural color in single application

Highlighting Shampoo Tints

Highlighting Shampoo• Shampoo and hydrogen peroxide• Natural haircolor slightly lightened• No patch test required

Special Problems• Gray hair • Yellow discoloration

Special Problems• Formulating for gray hair

Presoftening• Mix according to manufacturer’s

directions• Apply to resistant area• Process at room temperature• Remove color• Apply desired level of color

Rules for Effective Color Correction

• Do not panic• Determine true problem• Determine cause of problem• Develop solution• One step at a time• Never guarantee exact results• Do strand test

Damaged Hair Characteristics• Rough texture• Overporous condition• Brittle and dry• Susceptible to breakage• No elasticity• Spongy and matted• Color fades

Damaged Hair Treatments• Penetrating conditioner• Finishing rinse• Postpone further chemicals• Between service conditioning• Recommend retail products

Fillers• Conditioner fillers• Color fillers

Color Filler Advantages• Deposits color to faded ends• Helps hair hold color• Prevents streaking• Prevents off-color results• More uniform, natural looking in a tint• More uniform when tinting hair back to

natural color

Selecting Correct Filler• Replace missing primary color• Apply directly to hair or mix with

haircolor

Tips for Red• Warm, coppery reds use red-orange

base• Hot, fiery reds use red-violet or true

red• Use no-lift deposit-only to refresh• If gray is present, add natural color• Refresh with soap cap

Tips for Brunettes• Avoid orange, brassy tones• Cover gray• Highlight deep or caramel color

Tips for Blonds• Brown to blond• Covering gray hair• Double process• High-lift blonds• Lowlights

Common Haircolor Solutions• Green cast• Overall haircolor too light• Overall haircolor too dark• Restoring blond to natural color

Haircolor Safety Precautions• Administer patch test• Do not apply if abrasions are present• Do not apply over metallic tint• Do not brush hair before service• Read and follow manufacturer’s

directions

Haircolor Safety Precautions• Sanitize tools and implements• Drape properly• Do strand test• Use bottle or bowl for mixing• Do not mix until ready to use;

discard left over tint

Haircolor Safety Precautions• Wear protective gloves• Don’t let color get in eyes• Do not overlap during retouch• Use mild shampoo• Wash hands

Summary and Review• What are the 3 most commonly used

methods for highlighting?• What are fillers, and for what purpose

are they used?

• List at least 10 safety precautions to follow during haircolor process

Summary and Review

Congratulations!You’ve just completed

another unit of study toward program completion

Haircoloring Special Effects Miladys Standard Cosmetology Cosmetology:

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