Ferment your vegetables : a fun and flavorful guide to making your own pickles, kimchi, kraut

“Thisbookisforyouwhetheryou’reawell-seasonedpickleproorakitchennovicereadytodipatoeintothebrinywatersoffermentationathome.Withclear,conciseinformationandahealthydoseofgeekyscience,AmandaFeiferbringsnewideastoigniteyourpicklepassion.

Fermentednuts?Sauerkrauteggs?Fizzycornonthecob?Yes,please!”

—KARENSOLOMON,AUTHOROFASIANPICKLESANDJAMIT,PICKLEIT,CUREIT

“Amanda’sconstantenthusiasmandthoughtfulnesshasinspiredtheteamatHighStreetonMarkettobecomemoreconfidentandunderstandingoffermentation.Nowthatsame

enthusiasmandthoughtfulnessisavailabletoeveryoneinFermentYourVegetables.Microbeshaveneverhadabetterambassador.”

—ELIKULP,EXECUTIVECHEF,HIGHSTREETONMARKET,FORKRESTAURANT,ANDA.KITCHEN+BAR

“Fullofenticingphotosandsolidtechniques,FermentYourVegetablesremovesanyfearaboutfermentationandreplacesitwithfun!Brimmingwithpracticaladviceandcreativeflavor

combinations,Feifer’sbookisamust-readforanyonewhoenjoysfermentedfoods.”

—ALLYSONKRAMER,AUTHOROFGREATGLUTEN-FREEVEGANEATS

“WithFermentYourVegetables,AmandaFeiferdemystifiesthetrickieraspectsoffermentingathomeandgivesusallthetoolsweneedtoconfidentlygoforthwithourownfermentationexperiments.Hersmall-batchpicklingrecipesareperfectforusingupanoverlyabundant

CSAshare,andtheyshowusthatpicklingcanbeapartofoureverydaycooking.”

—EMMACHRISTENSEN,RECIPEEDITORFORTHEKITCHNANDAUTHOROFTRUEBREWSANDBREWBETTERBEER

“DevoureverypageofFermentYourVegetablesandyouwillberewardedwithideasandrecipestokeepyoufermentingforyears.Everythingyouneedtoknowiscovered,evenifyour

microbialadventureshaveonlyjustbegun.”

—BRANDENBYERS,AUTHOROFTHEEVERYDAYFERMENTATIONHANDBOOK

“FermentYourVegetablesoffersclear,conciseinstructionsformakingyourownpickles,sauerkraut,kimchi,andmore.Thebook’ssmall-batchapproachmakesthepracticeofvegetablepreservationaccessibletoeveryone,withwildlycreative,playfulrecipes!”

—LEDASCHEINTAUB,AUTHOROFCULTUREDFOODSFORYOURKITCHEN

FERMENTyour

VEGETABLES

AmandaFeifer

ContentsIntroduction

PartI :GETTINGSTARTEDWITHFERMENTATION

PartII :SMALL-BATCHLACTICACIDFERMENTATION

Chapter1:Pickles

Chapter2:Kraut

Chapter3:Kimchi

Chapter4:Sauces,Salsas,andCondiments

Chapter5:Kvass

PartIII :ALTERNATIVEAPPROACHESTOVEGETABLEFERMENTATION

Chapter6:FermentinginCrocks

Chapter7:No-Salt-AddedFerments

Chapter8:Tsukemono,SunPickles,andOtherPathstoCulturedVegetables

Resources

Appendix

Bibliography

Acknowledgments

AbouttheAuthor

IntroductionTheactofvegetablefermentationisoftenaseasyaschoppingavegetable,puttingitinajar,pouringinsomesaltbrine,andwaiting.

Yetforallitspracticalsimplicity,fermentationisalsoamazinglymeaningfulandcomplexwhenconsideredfromapolitical,social,orphilosophicalperspective.Fermentationisempowerment.Theactofdecidingtofermentone’sfoodcanbepolitical.Itsaysnotofastfoodandyestotheideathatgoodthingscometothosewhowait.Itsaysnotoraging,baselessbacteria-phobiaandyestoappreciatingthatwemaynotyetunderstandallthatthemicrobialworldhastooffer.Itacceptsthatinnovationandexplorationareimportantinaprogressivesociety,butalsothattherearelessonstobelearnedfromthepast.Itsaysnotoingredientliststhatrequireachemistrydegreetounderstandandyestofoodswithknockoutflavorsandsimpleingredients.

Justsaltandvegetables,whenfermented,giveussomuchmorethanthesumoftheirparts.Theygiveussauerkraut,pickles,kimchi,andmore.Theygiveushighervitaminoutputthantherewasinput.Theygiveusabundantprobioticsandspecializedenzymesthat,researcherscontinuetofind,doallsortsofunimaginablygoodthingsforourbodies,andevenfightspecificdiseases.Undeniably,theygiveusflavorsthattastelikenothingelse,flavorsthatcan’tbereplicatedbychemicaladditivesortheadditionofvinegarandspices.

Thisbookisintendedasaroadmaptofermentingyourownvegetablesathome.Ihopethatitcalmsanyfearsyoumighthaveaboutthesafetyofthisextraordinarilysafeprocess.Ihopeitshowsyouthat,bybeingflexibleandexploratory,youcanexperiencebothincreasedhealthandpleasurefromyourfood.Ihope,too,thatitwillinspireyoutotrynotonlytheserecipesbutalsotointroduceyourownfavoriteflavorsintofuturebatchesofkrautandkimchi.Ihopethatitexcitesyouandincitesyoutoexplorefoodthroughtheworldofferments.Mostofall,Ihopethatitshowsyouthatfermentationisfun!

GettingStartedwithFermentation

Thebuildingblocksandbasictechniquesofpracticalvegetablefermentationarecoveredinthissection,whichisintendedtobeareferencepointfortheentirebook.I’lllayoutthebasicaspectsoffermentingvegetables,showyouwhatyouneed,andaddresscommonconcerns.

Ifyou’renewtovegetablefermentation,understandingtheconceptsoutlinedinthissectionwillilluminatethestep-by-stepprocessoffermentingandgiveyouanappreciationforwhatisactuallyhappeninginthejarorcrock.Thisistheplacetoansweranynitty-grittyquestionsyouhaveaboutprocessandtofindoutexactlywhyyoushouldjointhegrowingmovementofhomefermenters.

WhatIsFermentation?Vegetablefermentationisthetransformationofarawvegetableintosomethinginfinitelyhealthierandmoredelicious.Lacticacidfermentation,theprimaryfermentationprocesscoveredinthisbook,transformsvegetablesintopickleswithoutevenadropofaddedvinegar.

Thistransformationoweseverythingtothemicrobesinthesoilandsugarsnaturallypresentinthevegetables.Thesoilisrichwithbacteria.Whenvegetablesareharvested,theycomeoutofthegroundcoveredinbacteria,includingasmallpopulationoflacticacidbacteria(LAB,frequentlyreferredtoasprobioticbacteria)ontheirskinsandpeels.Thesebacteria,giventherightconditions,willkickstartfermentationbyfeastingonavegetable’snatural

sugarsandconvertingthemintoavarietyofthings,includinglacticacid,carbondioxide(CO2),andevenaverysmallamountofalcohol.

Therightconditionsforlacto-fermentationarequitesimpletoprovide:anenvironmentwithlittleornooxygenandsufficienttimeatroomtemperature(roughlybetween64and75°F[17.8and23.9°C]usuallymakesthemhappiest,althoughbothlowerandhighertemperaturesaresometimesused).Unlikesomeoftheirdangerous,pathogenicbacterialbrethren,lacticacidbacteriadofineinthepresenceofsalt,eveninrelativelyhighconcentrations,somostvegetablefermentationalsoinvolvessaltingthevegetables.

Yourjobasafermenterissimplytogivethosegoodmicrobeswhattheyneedandthengetoutofthewaywhiletheydotheirwork.Onceyouunderstandthebasic,practicalprinciples,it’seasytoseethatfermentationisaprocessnatureintendedandonethatyoucannurtureinaveryhands-offway.

WhyFermentVegetables?Folksofallstripeschoosetofermentvegetablesforawidevarietyofreasons.Somedoitforthelonglistofuniquehealthbenefits,othersforthetaste.SomepeoplewanttoeatmorelocallyandsomejustgetsweptawaybythefeelingofpowerthatcomesfromDIYingthingsthatseemcomplicated(butareactuallyquitesimple).

FlavorOnegreatreasontofermentvegetablesisimmediatelyevidentwithyourfirstbite:thetaste!Vegetablefermentationlivesinarealmoffoodsciencethatcanseemlikemagic.PutsomecabbageandsaltinavatandvoilàOnemonthlater,unseenmicrobeshavetransformedahumbleheadofcabbageintothattangysuperstarsauerkraut.Theseflavorsaredifficult,ifnotimpossible,toreplicatewithoutfermentation.Thatisonereasonwhygreatchefsallovertheworldareinlovewiththisprocess.Thewords“tangy,”“funky,”and“perfectlysour”alldescribethesingularflavorsthatoccurwhenvegetablesarefermented.

HealthFermentedvegetablesofferasurprisingnumberofhealthbenefits;themostdiscussedistheirhighprobioticbacteriacontent.Thereisnewresearchpublishedseeminglyeverydayontheimportanceofourgutmicrobiome(ourcommunityofintestinalmicrobes).Whiletherolethatfermented,probioticfoodsplayinthemicrobiomeisnotyetfullyunderstood,thereisgoodevidence

foodsplayinthemicrobiomeisnotyetfullyunderstood,thereisgoodevidencethatprobioticfoodsplayaroleinthecreationandmaintenanceofadiverseandhealthypopulationofgutbacteriaandthatsuchdiversityisimportantforourgeneralhealthandwell-being.

Incontrast,scientificevidencecontinuestoshowusthatadepletedmicrobiome,lackingindiversity,maybelinkedtomanyofthemodernailmentsfoundprimarilyindevelopednations—obesity,foodallergies,andevendepressionhaveallbeenshowntohaveeitherlikelyorestablishedlinkstothehealthanddiversityofourgutbacteria.

Butprobioticsaren’ttheonlyhealthbenefitswegetfromeatingfermentedvegetables.Thesefoodsalsohaveahighervitamincontentthantheirraworcookedcounterparts,meaningthatwhenyoueatrawcucumbers,forinstance,you’reactuallyeatingavegetablethatislowerinvitaminsthanitsfermentedcounterpart(seeClassicCukes,page162).Thefermentationprocessactuallycreatesvitamins,andmineralsbecomemoredigestiblebecauseoffermentation.

Inaddition,fermentationhasalsobeenshowntodestroyorreducecertaincompoundsthatareharmfultous,includingpesticideresidue.

Thisbarelyscratchesthesurfaceofthepotentialhealthclaimscurrentlybeingstudiedandthespecialpropertiesthathavealreadybeenidentified.Theareaofhealth-relatedresearchonfermentedfoodsisextremelyexcitingatpresentandwilllikelycontinuetoexpandinthecomingyears.

PreservationAbunchofcarrotsleftonthecountermightgetrathermushyandmoldyafteraweek.Inthefridge,theymaylastacoupleweeks.Ifyoufermentthem,however,they’llbecomeincreasinglyzestyanddelicious;they’llturnintohealthy,probioticfoods,andthey’llkeepformonthsormore,maintainingtheircrispnessformuchofthattime.

Thepracticeofvegetablefermentationcanbetracedbackthousandsofyears.Longbeforetherewererefrigerators,freezers,airlocks,orairtightjars,peopleusedmicrobestosecuretheirfoodsupplyforthecoldermonthsortopreventspoilageinsweltering,tropicalclimes.

Thefactthatthispracticehasstoodthetestofsomuchtimeisonegoodindicationthatit’sasafeandeffectivemethodforpreservingfood.Ifitdidn’tworkproperly,thefermentersofyorewouldn’thavesurvivedtopasstheirgenesandtheirknow-howdowntous.Forthoseofuswhoenjoyeatingtheproduceoflocalfarmersormaintainingalargegarden,fermentationisagreatwaytokeepthosevegetablesediblethroughthechangingseasons.

FunandEase

FunandEaseFermentationisforeveryone.Youdon’tneedtobeasophisticatedcooktomakefermentedvegetables,althoughtheflavorsthatthisprocesscreateswillhaveyourfriendsandfamilythinkingthatyouare.Ifyoucanchopavegetable,youcanferment.Followjustafewbasicandprettyflexibleguidelines(outlinedahead),andyou’llhaveendlessfunfermentingvegetablestoyourheart—andgut’s—content.

AskaUSDAMicrobiologistDr.FredBreidt,aUnitedStatesDeptartmentofAgriculturemicrobiologistwhoseworkoftenfocusesonbacterialcompetitioninvegetablefermentation,hasspentdecadesstudyingthemicrobesthatmakethisprocesssosafeandeffective.Heisanincrediblylivelyandknowledgeablesourceofinformationonthetopic,andhisenthusiasmisallthemoreinspiringbecauseitisfirmlyrootedinresearchandhardscience.

OnWhetherVegetableFermentationIsaSafeProcess,GivenItsIncreasedPopularity“Vegetablefermentationisoneofthesafestfoodtechnologieswehave,provided,ofcourse,thatitisdoneproperly.Butitisreallynotthathardtoproperlyfermentvegetables.Theprocessisactuallyprettyfoolproof.”

OnWhyVegetableFermentationIsSuchaSafeProcessBacterialcompetitionmakesthisprocessverysafe.Lacticacidbacteriaandthelacticacidtheyproduceareextraordinarilyeffectiveatcreatingconditionsinwhichtheirpathogeniccompetitorscannotlive.Lacticacidismoreeffectivethanothertypesofacid(includingaceticacid,theacidinvinegar)atdestroyingpathogenicbacteria,includingSalmonellaandE.coli.Thewaysthatdifferentacidmoleculeskillbacteria(inadditiontothelowpHkillingeffect)arecurrentlybeinginvestigated.WhileC.botulinumsporesdousuallysurvivefermentation,theydonotproducethebotulismtoxinwhenthepHisbelow4.6.SincepHstripscanbeslightlyinaccurate,thesafestoptionistoonlyconsumefermentsthatgiveareadingof4.0orbelow.

OnWhetherVegetablesAreSafetoConsumeAfterLongFermentationLacticacidisanamazingpreservative.Evenincommercialproduction,

Lacticacidisanamazingpreservative.Evenincommercialproduction,someproductsarelefttofermentatcontrolled(andoftenuncontrolled,inoutdoortanks)roomtemperatureforayearormore.Apicklethathasgonebad(whichrarelyhappens)canbeeasilyidentifiedbyoffsmellsandappearance.

OnDecidingWhenaPickleShouldHeadtotheCompostPileIftherearearomasofextremerotteneggorSwisscheese,afermentedvegetableshouldnotbeconsumed,althoughthisprobablygoeswithoutsaying.Whenindoubt,useapHstrip.IfthepHisabover4.0,don’teatthatbatch.

OnSurfaceMoldThereareavarietyofsurfacemoldsthatmayappearonthesurfaceofafermentedvegetable.Ifyouseeathinlayerofyeast(commonlyreferredtoasKahmyeast),it’snothingtobeconcernedabout.Ifathickerlayerofcolorfulmoldhasaccrued,thereistheunlikelypossibilitythatthiscanstartaveryraresecondaryfermentationthatwillactuallyraisethepHlevels,makingitpossibleforC.botulinumtosporulateinthebottomofthecontainer.Again,apHmeterorstripcanhelpyougaugethesafety.AtapHbelow4,thebotulismtoxincannotsurvive.

TheSafetyQuestionOkay,soatthispoint,you’vereadtheword“bacteria”quiteafewtimes.Freakedout?Don’tbe.Really.Notonlyareourmouths,guts,andskinteemingwithhealthfulandharmlessstrainsofbacteria,buttheairwebreatheandthesoilbeneathourfeetarealsohavensforbacteriaofallkinds.

Thereisnoquestionthatdangerousstrainsofbacteriaexist,butonthewhole,bacteriaarenotourenemies.Themorewelearnthroughscientificstudy,themoreitbecomesapparentthatbacteriaareanessentialpartofhumanlife.Paintingallbacteriawiththesamebrushappearstohaveledusdownthewrongpath.Ifourbodiesweresterileitwouldbedifficultor,morelikely,impossibleforustosurvive—oneverygoodreasontosetasideanyremainingfearofbacteria.

Thesamethingsthathelppreservefermentedvegetablesalsomakethisprocessincrediblysafe.Inmostcases,itonlytakesafewdaysoffermentation

forthepHoflacto-fermentedvegetablestodroptoalevelwhereinitisimpossibleforthebacteriumresponsibleforbotulism,C.botulinum,tomakeitsverydangerousspores.Natureprovidestheessentialsafetymechanismshere.Youneedonlychop,submerge,waitafewdays,andacceptthatroomtemperatureisjustrightforsafe,fermentedvegetables.See“AskaUSDAMicrobiologist”forfurtherdetailsonsafety.

Thesubjectofthisbookisvegetablefermentation,sowe’remostlytalkingaboutfermentingwithlacticacidbacteria,butknowthatthereisawidefermentableworldoutthere,inwhichotherbacteria,yeasts,andfungimakemanyotherremarkablefermentedfoods.

WildFermentationvs.CulturedFermentationAlthoughalllacto-fermentedfoodscanaccuratelybereferredtoas“cultured”,theterm“culturing”usuallyreferstothepracticeofusingaseparateculture,ratherthannativeyeastsorbacteria,tostartfermentation.Thiscouldrefertofermentsthatrequireastartertowork(akombuchaSCOBY,orkefirgrains,forinstance),fermentsthatareculturedthroughcontactwithanalreadyfermentedsubstance(Misodoko,page189;orNukadoko,page191),andsometimesevenfermentsthatarekickstartedwithjustasmalldoseofliquidfromafinishedferment.

Wildfermentationreferstotheprocessoffermentingfoodswithonlythebacteriaoryeastthatarenaturallypresentintheairoronthefruitorvegetablebeingfermented.Withjustafewexceptions,thefermentsinthisbookarewildfermented.

Whileculturesarenecessaryforsometypesoffermentation,vegetablescomeequippedwitheverythingtheyneedforlacto-fermentation,andthereisscientificevidencethatusingastartercanactuallyhaveanegativeimpactonthetasteandtextureoffermentedvegetables,sogoingwildreallyisbest.

TheNeed-to-KnowBasicsReadytodiveintofermentingyourownvegetables?Ipromiseyouit’sbothsimpleandfun.Withjustabitofplanningandprep(probablylessthanyoudofordinnereachnight),you’llbewellonyourwaytomakingabatchofprobioticgoodnessthatyoucanservewithnearlyeverymeal.

goodnessthatyoucanservewithnearlyeverymeal.

TheMainComponentsNotmuchisneededtomakepickles,kimchiorkraut.Thevegetablesthemselvesprovidemostoftheessentials.Ifyou’realreadychoppingvegetablesforameal,you’vealreadymadeitmostofthewaytoasimplevegetableferment.VEGETABLES

Thebacterianecessaryforvegetablefermentationwillprimarilybeonthepeelorskin,sowiththeexceptionofonionsandgarlic,itisbesttoleavevegetablesunpeeled.Withinediblepeels,suchasthoseonsomewintersquash(WinterSquashHummus,page138),removethepeelsafterfermentationbutbeforeeatingorjustaddsomepiecesofpeelintothefermentanddiscardthemafterfermentation.

Washvegetablesforfermentationjustasyouwouldforcookingoreatingraw.Avoidwashingtheminhotwaterorcommercialvegetablewash,though,becauseeithercouldhaveanegativeimpactonthebacteriallifeonyourvegetables.

Allvegetablesaretheoreticallyfermentable.Inactuality,somedon’ttastegreatwhenfermented(althoughthatissubjective),andothersfallapartduringfermentation.Asyoukickoffyourfermentationhabit,Irecommendstartingwithvegetableswithlowerwatercontent(thinkradishesandturnipsovercucumbersandcollards),buttrythemalltoseewhatyourfavoritesare!

Perfectspecimensarenotnecessaryforfermentation.Whilenewerfermentersmayhavebetterluckstickingtothefreshestvegetables,thesomewhatshriveled,butstilledible,rootsyoufindinthebackofthecrispercanabsolutelybegivennewlifeandsavedfromthelandfillthroughfermentation.WATER

Thegoodnews:asimpleinternetsearchwillprovideinformationontapwaterinmostmunicipalities.Thelessgoodnews:somethingsthattricklethroughourpipesarenotalwayssuperfriendlytofermentation.

AchemicalcalledchloramineispresentinmuchofthemunicipalwatersupplyintheUnitedStates.Chloramine,likechorine,isadisinfectantaddedtothewatersystemtokilloffpathogenicmicrobes.Duetoitsantimicrobialproperties,itdoeshavethepotentialtoimpactthesuccessofferments.

Unlikechlorine,chloraminecan’tbeboiledoutofwater,norwillitevaporateifyouletyourwatersitoutovernight.

Briningvs.SaltingForthepurposesofthisbook,briningreferstomixingsaltandwatertocreateabrinethatisthenpouredovervegetables.Saltingreferstoapplyingsaltdirectlytocutvegetables,sothattheyreleasethewaterstoredintheircells.Inbothcases,theideaistocreateenoughliquidtocoverthevegetables.Thechoicetobrineorsaltdependsonthesizeofthevegetablepiecesandthetypeofferment.

Manyoftherecipesinthisbookweresaltedat2to2.5percent,orbrinedat4to6percent.Thereareexceptionstothis,however,assomerecipeslendthemselvestoasaltierorlesssaltybrine.Forexample,thesaltierbrineusedinwholepickledvegetableshelpspreventmoldandsurfaceyeastand,ofcourse,theno-salt-addedchapter(page177)reliesonthesaltsnaturallypresentintheingredientstodowhattheaddedsaltwouldnormallydo,aswellastheacidcreatedduringfermentationtomakethemsafetoconsume.

Tolearnhowtocalculatesaltpercentageandforvolume/weightcomparisons,checkoutthesaltchartsonpage200.

Bottledwaterisregulatedmuchlessstringentlythantapwateranditcanbenexttoimpossibletogetinformationontheoriginsofbottledwater,oritscontents,sosaveyourmoney,andtheearth,andusefilteredtapwaterinstead.

Despitethepresenceofchloramineinmylocalwatersupply,I’veneverhadafailedfermentusingevenunfilteredtapwater.Ifyouhaveconcernsaboutchloramineimpactingyourferments,Irecommendbuyingastandardcharcoalfilter(suchasBritaorPur)thatwillreduceoreliminatechloramineandotherthings(suchasheavymetals)thatyouprobablydon’twantinwhatyoudrinkorferment.SALT

SALTSaltplaysanimportantroleinvegetablefermentation.Itstrengthensthepectinsinthevegetables,resultinginacrisperpickle.Itgivesaninitialadvantagetolacticacidbacteriaovertheirsalt-fearing,bacterialcompetitors,makingfermentsevensafer.Itaidsinthepreservationoffermentedvegetables,allowingthemtobestoredforlongerperiodsoftime.Italsoprovidessomeobviousflavorenhancements.

Youcanfermentwithjustaboutanysaltunderthesun,fromcheaptablesalttotheoftencolorful,veryexpensivestuff.

Asmentionedpreviously,fermentationmakesmineralsmoreabsorbable,sousingahigherqualitysalt,whichisgenerallyricherinmineralsthantablesalt,canbeagoodchoiceforalittlemineralboost.Ifit’sinyourbudget,lookforasaltwithitemizedmineralcontent.Manysaltswithahighermineralcontentareveryaffordable,butifyoupreferplaintablesalt(whichworksbeautifully),lookforonethathasjustoneingredient:salt.

Weighingvs.MeasuringSaltWeighingsaltisundoubtedlythemostaccuratewaytoachieveconsistentsalinity,butthatdoesn’tnecessarilymeanit’sthebestchoiceforeveryone.Inyourhomepractice,Iencourageyoutofindthesaltlevelthatbestfitsyourtaste.Consistencyforyoumaymeanalwaysmeasuringwithyourfavoriteteaspoonandbrandofsalt,itmaymeanbreakingoutthekitchenscale,oritmaymeansaltingtotaste.SothatyoucanachievetheexactresultsthatIdidifyousochoose,thesaltinallrecipesinthisbookwasweighedinbothgramsandmeasuredwithmyfavoritemeasuringspoons.IfyouwanttodoitexactlyasIdid,usethegramweight,butknowthatmeasuringorsaltingtotaste,ratherthanweighing,iscompletelyfineforsmallbatches.Forcrockfermentation,Idoprefertoweigh,sincesmallvariationsfromonetablespoon(15g)scooptothenextcanadduptoabigdifferencewhenusingalargecrock.

Whilesaltlevelsdonotdecreaseduringfermentation,theincreasedacidinfinishedfermentsdoesmakethemtastelesssaltythantheytastedatthestart.Ifyoudecidetosalttotaste,youcanachieveanidealendproductbymakingitslightlysaltierthanyoulike.

Toolittlesaltwillresultinaquick-fermentingbatchthatismorelikelytoturntomush.Whiletheacidthatiscreatedduringthefermentationprocesswillmaketheproductsafetoconsume,manypeoplewillfindthemushytexturelessthanappealing.Therearewaystoworkaroundthat(seeNo-Salt-AddedFerments,pages177to185),butusinga2percentminimumfordirectsalting

and4percentminimumforbriningisthebestwaytoensureyouendupwithacrispandtoothsomefermentedvegetable.

Usingtoomuchsaltmayresultinaveryslowfermentingvegetable,abatchthatfailstostartfermenting,oranoddlydiscoloredbatch.Somestrainsoflacticacidbacteriawillfermentnormallyat8percentdirectsalt—thoughaconcentrationthathighwouldbeutterlyinediblewithoutsoakingandrinsingandisthereforenotadvisable.

Ifyou’remeasuringsalt,pleasecheckoutthesaltchart(page200)foranideaofweightandvolumedifferencesbetweensalts,butalwaysletyourpalatebeyourguide.

EquipmentVegetablefermentationdoesnotrequiremuchspecialequipment;however,somenormalkitchentoolsareessentialformakingtherecipesinthisbook.•Masonjarsmakeexcellentfermentingvessels,andwide-mouthjarsaremucheasiertopackthannarrow-mouthjars.European-stylejars(suchasFidoandLeParfaitbrandjars)withrubbergasketsandclampsarealsoverygoodoptions.Whenusingnarrow-mouthjars,theshouldersofthejarcanbeleveragedtokeepvegetablespackedandsubmergedunderthebrine.

•Weight.Youwillneedsomethingtouseasaweightinyourvessel,whetheryou’reusingagasket-sealingjaroramasonjar.Manyhouseholditemscanservethispurpose.(See“TheToolsofSubmersion”onpage26foroptions.)

•Largebowls.Havingalargerbowlonhandisessentialfordirectsaltedfermentssuchassauerkrautandkimchi.You’llwantenoughspaceinyourbowlsothatdistributingsaltevenlyiseasyandmixingandtossingsaltintoyourvegetablesdoesn’tresultinabigmessonyourcountertopsandfloors.

•Blender,foodprocessor,orhandblender.Ablenderofsomesortwillbenecessarytomakesomeoftherecipesinthe“Sauces,Salsas,andCondiments”chapter(page27)and“Kimchi”chapter(page101),whileformanyotherrecipes,it’sjustnicetohaveasawork-reducingdevice.Somepeopleenjoytheprocessofhandshreddingorgratingcabbageforsauerkraut,butusingtheslicerbladeofalarge-capacityfoodprocessorcansaveyouquiteabitofpreptime.

•Chef’sknife.Agoodknifegreatlysimplifiestheworkofchoppingvegetables.

Inadditiontotheabove,herearesomeitemsthatmaynotbenecessary,butarecertainlyhelpful:•Mandoline.Amandolineisnotnecessary,butforthosenotgiftedwithgreatknifeskills,itcanmakequickandeasyworkofcreatinguniformvegetablepieces.

•Giantbowlorhotelpan.Ifalargebowlisgood,agiantbowlisbetter.Ihaveverylargecapacitybowlsthatmakeitquiteeasytosalt,soak,andtosslargerbatchesofkimchiandsauerkrautwithoutmakingamess.ThewidediameterofthesebowlsalsomakesiteasytouseaplateasaweightwhenIwanttobrinewholeheadsofcabbageforkimchi.Hotelpans,availableatrestaurantsupplystores,workequallywell.

•Largeliquidmeasuringcup.Makeeasyworkofmixingbrinebypouringdirectlyintoa4-cup(940ml)liquidmeasure.Youcanalsousea1/2-gallon(1.9L)jarforthispurpose(measurementsaremarkedonthesides),andifyouhaveextrabrine,youcanalwaysputthelidonandstoreitforyournextbatch.

•Kitchenscale.Ifyouintendtoweighsaltforthehighestaccuracy,akitchenscale(withgramdisplay)isnecessary.

•Foodmill.Forthesmoothestsauces,afoodmillisinvaluable.•Plasticlidsformasonjars.Theselidsarepricierthanthemetaljarlidsandringsthatcomestandardwithmostmasonjars,buttheywillnotcorrodeifabitofacidickrautorkimchigetsstuckonthejarrimorinthethreads.Plasticmasonjarlidsarenotwatertight,however,sodon’tgoa-shakin’jarsthataretoppedwiththese.

•Fermentingcrock.Forthoselookingtopreserveanabundantharvest,acrockmaybeagoodinvestment.Forthosewhodon’tgrowtheirownproduce,acrock,althoughatemptingandbeautifulitem,isusuallyamorereasonableinvestmenttomakeafterafermentationhabithasbeenwellestablished.Thisisthesinglemostexpensivepieceofvegetablefermentationequipmentyouwill

belikelytobuy,andforapartmentandcitydwellers,therearespaceconsiderationstotakeintoaccount.Seechapter6formoreinformationoncrockfermentation.

•pHstripsorapHmeter.Ifyou’replanningondoingalotofsalt-freefermentationormakingtheonlyyeast-fermentedrecipeinthisbook(GarlicHoney,page194),apHmeterorpHstripsareadvisabletoensureasafepH.

1CocktailOnionRings(page66),filledto11/2inches(4cm)belowtherim

2FoolproofRadishandOnionPickles(page44)withclothsecuredascover

3SweetPotatofrynests(page65)withjarweightinside

TheKeystoSuccessfulFermentationTherearen’tmanystepstosuccessfulvegetablefermentation.MostofthetipsandtricksIprovidethroughoutthisbookarepracticaldetailsthatI’vepickedup

andtricksIprovidethroughoutthisbookarepracticaldetailsthatI’vepickedupinmyyearsoffermentation,andwhilethey’llhelpyoucreateyourbestferment,mostofthemaretotallyflexible.Thepointsthatfollow,however,arewhatyoureallyneedtoknowbeforegettingstarted.Onceyouhavetheseinternalized,you’llknowthebasicsofvegetablefermentation.

Key1:ProperSubmersionAgreatwaytoprotectvegetablesfromairexposureistoensurethatthereisathinlayerofbrinecoveringthemduringfermentation.Vegetablesubmersionpreventsdiscoloration,aswellassurfaceyeastsandmoldsfromformingonthetoplayerofvegetables,andgiveslacticacidbacteriatheirpreferred,airlessconditions.Submersionisamoreimportantstepforbrinedferments(“Pickles,”pages39to69)thanitisforpackedferments(“Kraut,”pages71to99)andforkimchi,whereyoucanusuallyskipitaltogether.

Asyoumatureinyourfermentationpractice,youmaydeveloparhythmandasenseforhowrigidlyyouneedtoapproachthepracticeofsubmerging,butifyou’rejustgettingstarted,makingsurethatyourvegetablesstaybeneaththebrineshouldbeoneofyourtopconsiderations.THERULESOFSUBMERSION

Tokeepvegetablesbeneaththebrine,youjustneedtoapplyalittlebitofweighttothevegetablesoncethey’repackedintotheirjarsorcrocks.Thereareplentyofoptionswhenitcomestopicklingweights,andifyouprefertokeepyourwalletinyourpocket,creativityiskey.Youprobablyalreadyhavesomethinginyourhomethatcouldserveasasuitableweightforyourfermentingvegetables.Hereareafewguidelinesthatwillhelpensurebestresults.

Avarietyofspecialtyandhouseholditemscanbeusedtokeepvegetablessubmergedduringfermentation.

•Ditchthemetal.Unlessit’srestaurant-gradestainlesssteel,it’snotagoodideatoputmetalinoronaferment.Acidsareproducedduringfermentationandmetalcorrodeswhenforcedtositonacidfordaysorweeksormonths.Corrodedmetalissomethingyoudefinitelydon’twantinoronyourfood.

•Cleanit.Maybethisisano-brainer,butwhateveryou’reusingasaweightshouldbethoroughlycleanedbeforesittingontopofyourfermentationbiochemistry.Soap(notantibacterialsoap)andhotwaterwilldothetrick.Arunthroughahotdishwashercyclealsoworks.

•Makesureitfits.Thismayalsoseemobvious,butwhateverobjectyouuseneedstofitcomfortablythroughthesmallestpartofyourfermentingvessel.Oncethingsgetactiveinyourferment,theCO2willpushthevegetablesupandmaymovetheweight.Iftheweightistoolarge,itcancrackyourjarorcrock,resultinginthelossofboththefermentandthevessel.

•Openwide.Usingwide-mouthjarsmakesiteasiertobothpackyourfermentsinandtofindweightsthatfit.

•Searchforsafety.Ingenuitydrivesfermentationexperimentation,soIencourageyoutoconsideranyobjectinyourhousethatmightfittheabovecriteriaandthenconsiderwhetherornotit’sfoodsafe.Glasscandleholdersmayseemideal,butifthey’recoveredinaglazethatisn’tfoodoracidsafe,that’sdefinitelynotsomethingyouwantinyourfood.Youcanusuallycheckwiththemanufacturerfordetails,butifyoucan’t,seekanotheroption.

•Coverproperly.Thespecialtyairlockfermentationsystems(discussedfurtheronthenextpage)aresetonceyouclosethem,butforallothermethodsofweightingdownyourvegetables,you’llneedtocoveryourjarinoneoftwoways.Ifthesubmersionweightyou’vechosenprotrudesabovetherimofyourfermentingjar,useakitchentowel,clothnapkinorlargecoffeefiltertocovertheentirethingandsecureitbyplacingarubberbandovertheclothtopreventdustfromgettingintoyoursetup.Ifyourweightfitsunderneaththerimofthejar,coverthejarwithitslidandring,butdonotfullytightenthering.LeavingthejarringsomewhatlooseallowsCO2toescape,whichwillpreventyourjarlidfrombecomingdeformedduringfermentation.

THETOOLSOFSUBMERSION

Anynumberofitemscanbeusedtosubmergeyourfermentsproperly.Manyofthefollowingarefreeorcheaporarehouseholditemsyoumayalreadyhave.•Asmallerjar.Thisismygo-tomethodforsubmersion.Useaveryclean,smalljar(jellyjars,quarter-pintjars,orrecycledcondimentjarsallworkwell).Fillthejarwithwater,tightlysecureitslid,andthenplaceitontopofthevegetablesinsideyourlargerfermentationjar.Youshouldseethebrinelevelriseoverthetopofthevegetables.Oncethisisdone,you’llneedtoplaceakitchentowel,largecoffeefilter,orclothnapkinoverthejarsandsecureitwitharubberbandaroundthethreadsofthelarger,bottomjar.AnadvantageofthismethodisthatitallowsCO2createdduring

fermentationtoeasilyescapewhiletheweightofthejarensuresthatthebrinelevelstaysabovethelevelofthefermentingvegetables.Thisliquidlayerpreventsexcessiveoxygenfromreachingthevegetables,keepingmoldand

yeastsfromforming.Thedisadvantageofthismethodisthatitallowsevaporation.Thisisn’tanissueforafermentofshortduration,butforfermentsofamonthorlonger,orinaverywarmclimate,youmayneedtopushdownontheweightoraddmorebrine.

•Glassorceramicpotboilerdisks.Youcanbuytheserelativelycheapglassorceramicdisksatkitchensupplystoresoronline.Theyhavegoodheftandcanbestackedtocreatemoreweightifneedbe.Justmakesurethatthediameteroftheweightfitsthroughthenarrowestpartofyourjar.

•Aboiledstone.Findaround,flatstonethatwillfitinyourjar.Boilitfor20minutesandallowittocoolbeforefirstusetoensurethatnounwantedmicrobialcompetitorssurvive.Avoidlimestoneandothersedimentaryrocksthatcontaincalcite,asubstancethatwillreactwithacidanddissolveintoyourfermentingvegetables.

•Ceramicpieweightsorglassmarbles.Theselittlespheresmakegreatballastwhentiedinabitofcheeseclothorplacedintoareusablecottonteabag.

•Vintageglasscanningjarlids.Thissuggestioncamefromablogreader(phickle.com),Diane,whosaidsheoftenfindstheseoldglasslidsatvintagestoresforasteal.

•Snack-sized,zip-topstoragebags.Putsomeofthesaltybrineintothebag(donotfillcompletely),sealthebag,andplaceitontopofthevegetables.Usingbrineinthebagensuresthatifthebagbreaksorleaks,thesaltconcentrationofthefermentwillnotbealtered.

Ifyou’dratherpurchasespecialtyequipmentmadeforfermentationandsubmersion,thereareseveraloptionsyoucanlookinto.•Pickleweights.Youcanpurchasespecialfermentationweightsthatarespecificallytofitinjars.Theycanbestackedtoprovidegreaterweightorusedindividually.Lookforweightsmadebyareputablepotterorcompany.Chooseglassceramicweights,withfood-safeglazes.

•Specialtyfermentationsystems.Asvegetablefermentationgrowsinpopularity,newspecialtyproductsforkeepingvegetablessubmergedwhileallowingCO2toescapearebecomingmorecommon.Currentsystemstendtobepricedaround$15to$30perjar,makingthemprohibitivelyexpensiveforthoseofuswhohavemanyjarsgoingatanygiventime.Ifyou’reworkingonjustoneortwojarsatatime,however,thesemightbeareasonableinvestment.Thesesystemsincludecontainersorlidsfittedwithanairlock,suchasthePickl-ItandThePerfectPickler;detachablelids,suchasthereCAP,thatcanbefittedtostandardmasonjarswithabungandairlock;andcap/compression

systemslikeKrautSource.Pleasekeepinmindthatdespitesomecompanies’claims,thesedonotmakefermentationsaferoreasier.Theycanmakeitlessodorousandneaterlooking.

Key2:ProperTemperatureTherearefewthingsthatimpactafermentmorethantemperature.Temperatureinfluencesthespeedoffermentationandsubsequently,itstexture.Thetemperatureatthestartoffermentationeveninfluenceswhichstrainorstrainsoflacticacidbacteriainitiatefermentation.

Thisdoesn’tmeanthatfermentationisafinickyprocess,however.Betweentemperaturesof64and78°F(17.8and25.6°C),fermentationwillinitiatewithoutahitch(thoughsomefermentstastebetterwhenfermentedataslightlycoolerorwarmertemperature).Ifindthatsauerkrauthasoptimalflavorandtexturewhenfermentedbelow70°F(21.1°C),ascloseto65°F(18.3°C)aspossible,while,formypalate,kimchiistheopposite.Myfavoritekimchishavebeenfermentedatslightlywarmertemperatures,between70and72°F(21.1and22.2°C).

Somesciencedisagreeswithmeonthis—atleastonestudyindicatesthat68°F(20°C)istheoptimalfermentationtemperaturefordelicious‘chi,whileothersshowabroadrange,from50to72°F(10to22.2°C),worksbest.Thisleadsusbacktoakeyprincipleofhomefermentation:aslongasyoufollowthebasic,safeprocedureslaidoutinthischapter,thereisplentyofroomforvariationandpreference.Often,wedon’thaveperfectcontrolovertemperature,andthatistotallyfine.Ifavegetabletakesaverylongtimetoferment(toocool)orendsuptoosoft(toowarm),thenexploredifferentmicroclimatesinyourhome,suchasnearanair-conditioningvent,whereit’scooler,orinsideaturned-offovenorontopofarefrigerator,whereit’swarmer.Andremember,theslightvariationsthathappenfrombatchtobatcharepartofwhatmakefermentationfun!

Key3:Cleanliness,NotSterilityIfyou’vearrivedatvegetablefermentationviacanningorhomebrewing,youmaybeaccustomedtoastrictregimenofsterility.Thisisneithernecessarynordesirableforvegetablefermentation.Microbesareourfriends,andtheparticularbacteriaresponsibleforvegetablefermentationareprettygoodattakingcareofthemselves(andus),sostepawayfromthesanitizerandvatsofboilingjarsandrelyonelbowgrease,plainsoap,andwaterinstead.Keepingacleankitchen,cleanjars,cleanutensils,andcleanhandsissufficientforsafeandsuperiorhome-fermentedvegetables.

home-fermentedvegetables.

WhattoExpectWhenYou’reFermentingOkay,soyou’rereadytoletyourfermentsdotheirthing!Howwillyouknowthatit’sworking?First,ifyou’reusingfilteredwaterandfermentingatroomtemperature,it’sextremelyunlikelythatfermentationwon’tinitiate.Hereareafewcluesthatwilltellyouthingsaregoingwell.

HowFermentsShouldLook:BubblesandColorChangesYoushouldseebubblesforminginyourjarand/orfoamonthesurfacewhenyou’refermentinginglass.Ifyou’refermentinginawater-sealedcrock,you’llheartheoccasional“bloop”thatindicatesthingsarebubblingalonginside.Notallvegetablesareveryvigorousfermenters,andlargervegetablepieceswilltakelongertogetactive,soitmaybeafewdaysbeforeyouseeanythingbubbling.Thebubblesinsomefermentswillbesoactiveitmaylooklikeboilingwater,whileinothersyouseechampagne-likebubblesalongthejarsidesorjusttheoccasionalbitoffoamonthesurface.Whenindoubt,youcanuseapHstrip.Below4.0,youcanstarteatingthemifyoulike.Above4.0,andtheyneedalittlemoretimetoferment.

Thebrineinyourfermentedpickleswillalsostarttochangefromcleartocloudyintheearlydays,andyoumaynoticeabitofwhitesedimentformingatthebottomofthejarovertime.Thosearebothgoodsignsthatfermentationisoccurring.Vegetableswithabrightlycoloredouterskin(redradishesandbeets,forinstance)mayalsoshedtheircolor,givingyouverycolorfulbrine.

Whenthey’rereadytoeat,thefermentedvegetablesthemselvesmayappearlighter(radishes)ordarker(brusselssprouts)incolor.Thetexturewillhavechanged,butinmostcases,itwillbecrispy,similartopickledvegetablesthatyoubuyatthestore.Ifyoudon’tachievequitethetextureyouwant,tryfermentingyournextbatchinacoolerspotorusingabitmoresaltinyournextbatch.

HowFermentsShouldSmell:PungentandStrongReadyforalittlebitofstraighttalk?Sometimesfermentsstink.Formostpeople,thisisamatterofgettingaccustomedtothesmellorofbeingmoreselectivewiththetypeofvegetableused(justsaynotoopencrocksoffermentingbroccoli).Ifyou’reunfamiliarwiththesmelloffermentedfoods,trybuyingacontaineroflivingsauerkrautfromtherefrigeratedsectionofthegrocerystore.

containeroflivingsauerkrautfromtherefrigeratedsectionofthegrocerystore.Leaveitatroomtemperatureforafewhoursuntilthechillisgoneandthenopenitupandtakeawhiff.Thatsmell—pungent,butnotunappealing—shouldapproximatewhatyou’vegotbrewing.

HowFermentsShouldTaste:Bright,Sour,andSaltyFermentedvegetablesshouldtastesourandpickled.Theyshouldtastegood,andmostpeoplelovetheseflavorsstraightaway(althoughsomedofindthemchallengingatfirst),evenifthearomaduringfermentationdoesn’talwaysappeal.

Afermentthat’sgonebadwillshowsigns:therewillbecolorfulmoldorthesmellwillbecheesy,musty,ormoldyratherthanbrightandfunky.Thetextureofthevegetablesinan“off”fermentwillbemushy.Theywillsmellveryunpleasant.Ifnoneofthosethingsistrue,giveitasmalltaste.Bright,salty,sournotesshouldhityourtongue.Ifyou’veevertriedadelipicklefromarealkosherdeli,youknowhowmuchmoreflavorfulandcomplexthosearethanjarred,supermarketpickles.Thoseareafewoftheflavorsyoushouldexpect,butthesefoodsarecomplex,sootherflavorsaren’tuncommon.Theunpleasantnotesdescribeabovearenotcommonoccurrences,andtheyareeasilyavoidedbyusingthesimpletechniqueslaidoutinthissection.

TroubleshootingandFAQsFollowingaresomeofthemostcommonissuesandquestionsIhavereceivedwhenteachingfermentation.Referbacktothissectionasneeded—orjusttosootheyourfearsbeforebeginning.

“Whenisitdone?”It’sdonewhenyouliketheflavorandacidity,andthat’swhenitshouldbemovedtothefridge.Whiletherecipesinthisbookallmentionspecifictimeframes,youshouldfeelfreetofermentthemlongerifyoufeelthattheyarenotyetsourenough.Thewarmerthejar,thefasteritwillferment.

Fermentedfoodsaredynamicandalive.Evenputtingthemintotherefrigeratorwon’tcompletelystopthefermentationprocessinmostcases.Expecttotastesomethingslightlydifferenteachtimeyouopenyourjar.Thelongeritferments,themoresouritwillget.

“Mybrineiscloudyandthere’swhitesedimentatthebottom.”

Whitesedimentisthenormalaccumulationofbacteriaandyeastinaferment.Somevegetables(hotpeppers,page133,andsnappeas,page49)tendtoaccumulatemoresedimentthanothers,butitisnothingtobeconcernedabout.

Cloudybrineinpicklesisalsonormal.Itisn’trelatedtothetypeofsaltyouuse—itisrelatedtothefermentationprocessitself.

“WhatdoIdowithabatchthathasgonemoldy?”Thepresenceofmoldorvisibleyeastonthesurfaceofafermentedvegetablemayindicatethattherewassomeairexposure,whichisnotinitselfworrisome.However,ifthereisanabundanceofdark-orbright-coloredmold,thatbatchshouldbetossed.Ifthereisawhitishmoldoryeastonthesurface,youhavesomeoptions.ThemostimportantthingtodoisskimthemoldimmediatelytokeepitfromformingathickerlayerandthentestthefermentwithapHstrip.IfthepHisbelow4.0,itissafetoconsume.Forsaltedferments,Igenerallyusethesnifftest:ifitsmellslikeatasty,sourferment,Ieatit.Smallamountsofbeigeorwhitemoldareharmless,butapHstripwillalwaystellyouifanundesirablesecondaryfermentationhasmadeyourfermentunsafe.Thishasneverhappenedtome,andeveninthescientificliteratureitisextremelyrare.

“Myfermentismushy.”Amushyfermentusuallyindicatestoolittlesalt,afermentingtemperaturethatwastoohigh,atoo-longfermentationperiod,ortheuseofastarter.Ifyourfermentstillsmellsgoodandsour,itisstillokaytoeat.Ifthetextureisunpleasanttoyou,considerpuréeingitintoasauce,dip,dressing,soup,orstew.

Toavoidthisproblemnexttime,trymovingyourfermenttoaslightlycoolerspotinyourhomeandraisingthesaltcontentabit.Anddefinitelyskipthestarterifyouusedone!It’snotnecessary.

“MysauerkrautispinkandIusedgreencabbage.”Greenkrautturnedpinkindicatesthatyouusedtoomuchsaltorthatthesaltwasn’tproperlydistributedatthestartoffermentation.Eatingkrautdiscoloredinthiswayisn’trecommended.

“IsthereanythingIcandotoreducethe…aroma?”Ifyoufindthesmellverybothersome,thereareafewthingsyoucando.First,beawarethatsomevegetableshaveastrongerfermentingsmellthanothers.Kimchiwithfishsauce,cauliflower,brusselssprouts,andbroccolicandefinitelycleararoom.Fermentingstinkiervegetablesinanairlocksystemorwater-sealedcrockcanreduceoreliminatetheodors.Somepeoplealsohaveacornerofthe

crockcanreduceoreliminatetheodors.Somepeoplealsohaveacornerofthepantryoraspecialclosetorcupboarddedicatedtofermentingvegetables.

Onetipforanyonesensitivetothesesmells:chillfermentsinthefridgebeforeopeningtoeat.It’sagreatwaytotameodorsandstokeappetites.

“Mybatchisalittleslimy.”Didyouuseastarter?Ifso,don’tdothatagain.

Ifnot,itislikelyacaseoftoo-sweetvegetableslikebeetsorcarrotsthatfavoredyeastfermentation(undesirableinthiscase)overlacticacidfermentation(desirable).Whileyoucancutmostvegetablesintoanysizeandshapeyou’dlike,forsweeterroots,uselargerpiecestokeepthosesugarsfrombecomingtooavailable.

“Therearebubblesinmyjar!”Bubblesareagoodthingandproofthatfermentationishappening.TheproductionofCO2isanaturalandnormalpartofvegetablefermentation.

“Therearenobubblesinmyfermentationvessel.”Areyou100percentsurethatthereareabsolutelynobubbles?Noteveryvegetablefermentssupervigorously,sowithcertainvegetablesatcoolertemperatures,sometimesyou’lljustseesomelightbubblingintheearlydays.Ifyoudefinitelyneversawanybubbling,thatmayindicatethatfermentationneverinitiated.Possibleculpritsareanoverlychillyenvironment,disinfectantsinthewatersupply,orirradiatedproduce.Smellforfermentyaromasandkeepacloselookoutforsurfacebubbles.

Giveitsomemoretimeandifthereisstillnosignoflife,considertheaboveculpritsandstartanew.

“Itstoppedbubbling!DidIkillmyferment?”Unlessyoucookedit,it’sveryunlikelythatthebacteriainyourfermentjustupanddied.Vegetablefermentsaremoreactivelybubblyduringtheearlydaysoffermentationinmostcases(therearenotableexceptionstothis,sodon’tworryifitcontinuestobubble,either).ThebacteriathatareactiveatthestartoffermentationgenerallyproducemoreCO2thanthebacteriathatareactivelaterintheprocess,soit’smorethanlikelythatthingsjustquieteddown.

“What’stheidealtemperatureforvegetablefermentation?”

Thereisanidealrangeof64to75°F(17.8to24°C),butthisisflexible.Theexactidealtemperaturevariesfromonefermenttoanother,byonebacterialstraintoanother,andbytastepreference.Inmyownpractice,Ihavefoundthatabroadrangeofroomtemperatures,someofthembeyondtheboundariesofthisrange,willendinatastyferment.

“Ikeepmyhomecooler/warmerthanthis.CanIstillferment?”Yes.Takealittlesurveyofyourhome.Youwillprobablyfindthattherearewarmerorcoolermicroclimatesinspotsnearanair-conditioningorheatingvent,inacoldclosetorbasement,ontopofarefrigerator,orinsidea(turned-off)oven.Ifyoutrulycan’tfindaspotwithinthisrange,giveitashotanyway.Ifyourtemperaturesarewarmer,addabitmoresalt,cutfermentationtimes,andcheckregularlyformushiness.Ifyourtemperaturesaretoocoolbutstillabove50°F(10°C),allowforamuchlongerfermentationperiod.

“Arethesefoodssafetoeataftersittingatroomtemperatureforsolong?”Yes.Fermentingfoodsatroomtemperaturemakesthemsafertoeatthanraworcookedvegetables.Thelacticacidcreatedduringfermentationmakesitimpossibleforbadbacteriatoblossom.Thisprocessworksbestsomewherebetween64and75°F(17.8and24°C).

“WillIgetbotulism/diefromeatingthesefoods?”No.Althoughhumanshavebeenfermentingforthousandsofyears,therearezeroreportedcasesofbotulismassociatedwitheatingfermentedvegetables.Thesamecannotbesaidforanyotherpreservationprocessorevenofrawvegetables.Thisprocessisextremelysafe.

“Arefermentedvegetablesrawfood?”Yes.Heatingvegetablesabove110°F(43.3°C)orsowillkillmanyofthebacteriaresponsibleforsuccessfulvegetablefermentation.

“Isitokaytocookwithferments?”Cookingfermentswillkilltheprobioticbacteria,buttheflavorsthatfermentedfoodscontributetofinisheddishesusuallymakeitwellworththeoccasionalbacterialsacrifice.Keepingfermentedvegetablesbelowapproximately110°F(43.3°C)isbestforkeepingtheprobioticbacteriaaliveandkicking.

“Istherereallyalcoholinthese?”

Yes,thereisasmallamountofalcoholinfermentedvegetables.IntheU.S.,anyfoodordrinkcontaininglessthan0.5percent(1percentinmanyothercountries)alcoholneednotbelabeledascontainingalcohol,sowhilethereisatinyamount,it’snotenoughtoevenwarrantalabel.Youmaybesurprisedtofindthatmanyitemsonthegrocerystoreshelfthatyoualreadyeatcontainsmallamountsofalcohol.Infermentedvegetables,we’retalkingabouttraceamountsandcertainlynothingthatisunsafetofeedtoachildorteetotaler.GarlicHoney(page194),theonlyyeastfermentinthisbook,hasthepotentialtodevelopanalcoholcontentsimilartothatofalower-alcoholmead.

“IsthereanythingIshouldconsiderwhenpurchasingproduce?”Someimportedproduceisirradiatedandwillthereforenotferment.IrradiatedproduceisrequiredtobelabeledintheU.S.andCanada,butyoumayneedtoreadthelabelverycarefullytofindtherelevanttext.Payparticularattentiontofreshgingerandhotpeppers,asthesearefrequentlyimportedandirradiated.Onemoregreatreasontobuylocalandorganic!

“HowdoIknowwhetherthesauerkraut/pickles/kimchiIbuyatthestoreis/areprobiotic?”Cannedvegetablessittingontheshelfinthestoredonotcontainliving,probioticbacteria.Lookforprobioticversionsintherefrigeratedaisle,withlabelsthatsay“containslive,activecultures”orsomethingsimilar.Theseareprobiotic.

Youcanalsolookonlineforsmall,localfermentationcompaniesinyourarea.Transportingfermentedfoodscanbetrickyandexpensiveforproducers,sothehighestqualityproductswillprobablybemadebyalocalcompany.Wonderfully,therearemorelocalproducerspoppingupallthetime!

“IsthereanyvegetableIcan’tferment?”Theoretically,no.Everythingthatgrowsintheearthhasanativepopulationoflacticacidbacteriathatwillundertaketheworkoffermentationintherightconditions.Somevegetablesaremorelikelytoresultinadeliciousandcrispyendproductduetotheirtextureandwatercontent,however.

Kaletendstogetbitterandleafygreenslikespinachandchardtendtomushquicklyandproducelessthandesirableflavors,butdon’tlimityourself!Anythingyouhaveinabundanceisworthtrying.Startsmallwithnew-to-youvegetables.

OntotheRecipes!

OntotheRecipes!Sometimes,whenyou’regettingstarted,youjustwantsomeonetotellyouexactlywhattodo.Forthatreason,detailedinstructionsarelaidoutinrecipesthroughoutthisbook.Beawarethattherearemanydifferentwaystoapproachthisprocess,andifyou’vefoundawaythatworksforyou,keeponkeepin’on!Happyfermenting!

Small-BatchLacticAcidFermentation

Nowthatyou’vegotthebasics,you’rereadytogetstarted.Inthispart,we’llcoverallsortsofrecipesforpickles,kraut,kimchi,andmore.

Mostoftheserecipescallforbatchesofonequartorless.Thisway,you’renotstuckwith3gallons(11.4L)ofpicklesyoudon’tlove,andyou’refreetoexperimentwithasmanyfermentsasyoulike.Youcanchoosewhateversubmersionmethodsuitsyourhomeandyourresources.Thissectionisallaboutfun,flexibility,andlettingtimeandmicrobesmakethingsdelicious.

Pickles

Whenmostpeoplepictureapickle,theythinkofabigjuicy,sourdillcucumberfromthekosherdeli.Thoseare,admittedly,picklesworthyoftheiriconicstatus,buttheworldofpicklesissomuchmorethancucumbers.Picklescanbeanything,fromslicedbeets(CuminBasilBeets,page46)tojicamasticks(PickleMyJicama,page49)tojuliennedrutabaga(RosemaryRutabaga,page60).

Picklesareoneoftheeasiestfermentstomake.Theyrequirefewingredientsandfermentforarelativelyshorttimebeforethey’rereadytobeenjoyed.

Althoughkimchiandkrautarealsopickledvegetablesand,technicallyspeaking,thisentirebookisabookofpickles,forthepurposesofthischapter,apicklewillbeavegetablethatisfermented,wholeorchopped,insaltwaterbrine,or,ifdirectlysalted,avegetablethatisn’tcabbage.

FoolproofRadishandOnionPickles

CuminBasilBeets

RutabagaHorseradishGingerPickles

RandomPickleGenerator

SnappyPeaPickles

PickleMyJicama

BánhMìPickles

CurriedCauliflowerPickles

CurriedCauliflowerPicnicSalad

Raw-tatouille

MintyHakureiTurnips

CarrotCarawayTurnipSlices

AsparagusPickles

PintofPickledPeppers

RosemaryRutabaga

NuttyBrusselsSproutPickles

ZucchiniBreadPickles

SweetPotatoFryNests

CocktailOnionRings

DirtyGibson

ClassicDillPickleSpears

Let’sPickleThat!Gettingstartedisveryeasy.Youonlyneedthreeingredients—vegetables,salt,andwater—andsomekindofcontainer(largejarsworkwell;seepages20to23formoreoptions).Justaboutanyvegetable,fromkohlrabitocarrots,canbefermentedintoflavorful,healthful,deliciouspickles.Somevegetableshavemoreuniversalappealandeffortlesslyfermentintocrispy,flavor-richpickles(seeFoolproofRadishandOnionPickles,page44),whileothersrequireabitmoreattention(ClassicDillPickleSpears,page68).

TheRules,IfYouCanCallThemThatTherearehonestlynotthatmanyrulestopicklefermentation.Youmostlywanttorelyonthethingsthatgiveyouaresultthattastesgoodtoyou.However,thereareafewthingsthatareusuallynecessaryforsafetyandexcellentresults.CHOPYOURVEGETABLES

Choppingvegetablesexposesmoresurfacearea,makingthevegetable’snaturalsugarsmoreavailabletothelacticacidbacteria.Bacterianeedaccesstotheir“food”toefficientlydotheworkoffermentation.SUBMERGEANDCOVER

Ifyoufearmold,orsurfaceyeast,oralessthantastybatch,propersubmersionisyourfriend.Ensurethatyourpicklesstaysubmergedunderathinlayerofbrineduringthefermentationperiod.Thereareseveralmethodsfordoingthis,asdetailedinpartone(pages23to28).GIVEITTIME

Formostvegetables,anythinglessthanthreedaysoffermentationtimeislikelytobeinsufficientforthepickletoreachapHof4.6,thelevelofacidityatwhichitisimpossibleforC.botulinumtosurvive.IfyouwanttobeextracertainthatyourpHislowenough,youcanpurchasepHstripsonline,atanyhomebrewstore,andevenatmanydrugstores,butthetruthis,that’sgenerallynotnecessary.Atthreedays,mostfermentswon’ttastenearlyacidicenoughtoeat.AtfourtofivedaysofroomtemperaturefermentationthereislittlechancethatafermentedvegetableisaboveapHof4.6.Formostpicklelovers,thatwouldbetheearliestthattheflavorwouldbedevelopedenoughtobothereatingthem.FINDTHERIGHTFIT

Submersionisessential,butdon’tfillyourjarhalfwaywithveggiesandthenfillthejarwithbrine.Jarsthataren’tmostlyfullofvegetablesaremorelikelytodevelopsurfacemoldsoryeasts.

Conversely,toolittlespaceinacrampedjarwithvegetablesthatdon’tstaysubmergedcanalsobeaninvitationtosurfacemold.AnoverlycrampedjarmightalsooverflowoncetheCO2startsbubbling,leavingyouwithmessycountersandajarthatneedstoppingoff.

Mybestruleofthumbforjarfermentationistoaddvegetablesuntilyourjarisfulltoabout2inches(5cm)belowthejarrimandtothensubmergethemundera1/4toa1/2inch(5mmto1.5cm)ofbrine,leaving11/2inches(4cm)ofspaceatthetopofthejarbeforetheweightisadded.Whenstartingout,it’sagreatpracticetoplaceyourjarsonplatesorbowls,justincasethereisanyoverflow.

Thejarontheleftlooksgood.Thejarontherightwillbemorepronetosurfaceyeasts.

LOSEYOURCOOL

Iknow.Yourmomtoldyoutotossfoodoutifitaccidentallysatonthecounterovernight.Nodisrespecttoyourmother,butunlikeotherfoods,fermentsareactuallysaferwhenleftatroomtemperature.Myidealfermentationtemperatureforpicklesisbetween68and72°F(20and22.2°C)andatemperaturebetween64and78°F(17.8and25.6°C)ismostlikelytoprovideyourbacteriawiththerightconditionstodotheworkofacidifyingyourfood.Refrigeratortemperatureswillsometimeskeepfermentationfromstartingandwillalwaysslowitdowndramatically,sodon’tputfermentsinthefridgeuntilafterthey’vebeenfermentedtoyourliking.TRYNEWTHINGS

Vegetablefermentationrequiresverylittlerulefollowing.Thatsaid,alloftherecipesinthisbookhavebeencarefullytested,andIdorecommendthatyoufollowthemexactlyifyouwantthesameresultsIhad.Inthefuture,feelfreetousethisbookasajumping-offpointinyourfermentationexperimentation.Saltlevels,vegetablecombinations,timing,andseasoningsare,withfewexceptions,

levels,vegetablecombinations,timing,andseasoningsare,withfewexceptions,adaptabletoyourpreferences.Aslongasyoufollowtheguidelinesdetailedinpartone,it’ssafetoexperimentwiththeserecipes.Seeaseasoningyoudon’tlike?Leaveitout.Haveabrainstormforanadditionyouthinkwouldwork?Goforit.Letcreativity,seasonality,andtastebeyourguides.

NotAllPicklesAreCreatedEqual:CannedPicklesvs.FermentedPicklesCanningisapreservationmethodthroughwhichvegetablesareacidifiedwithhotvinegar.Thevinegaraddsacidityand,alongwithotherseasonings,givescannedpicklestheirflavor.Cannedpicklesarethengivenalong,boilinghotwaterbathtokilloffallmicrobialactivity(mostspecificallythebacteriumresponsibleforbotulism—whichisveryheattolerant—butalsoallofthegood-for-us,probiotic,lacticacidbacteria).Thisprocessallowsforsealedjarstobestoredatroomtemperatureforlongperiodsoftime,oftenayearormore.Thepicklesyoufindongrocerystoreshelvesareproducedusingthismethod.

Cannedpicklesarenotlivingfoods.Theyareshelfstable,sotheywilltastevirtuallythesamewhenyoutakethemoutofthejarastheydidthedaytheywereputin.Likeallcookedfoods,theygenerallyhavefewervitaminsthantherawvegetablesfromwhichthey’remade,theyarenotprobiotic,andtheyhavenospecialhealthbenefits.

Fermentedpicklesaretheoppositeofcannedpickles.Ratherthansterilization,fermentationreliesonthecultivationofgoodbacteria,whichunfailinglydotheworkofkeepingthebadguysatbay.Theselacticacidbacteria,naturallypresentonallvegetables,eatthevegetablesugarsandconvertthemintolacticacidandCO2(seeallthosebubbles?),amongother

things.Thisprocessquicklyandnaturallyeliminatesthedangersposedbybadbacteriaandresultsinaprobiotic,good-bacteria-filledpickle.

Fermentedpicklesshouldusuallybestoredatcoolertemperaturesonceyou’rehappywiththeirflavor,but,becausetheyarelivingfoods,theirflavorandtexturewillcontinuetochangeovertime,evenintherefrigerator.Dependingonyourtastepreferences,thevegetableused,saltlevels,andhowyourpicklesaremadeandstored,theymaykeepforaweekorformorethanayear.

Unliketheircannedcousins,fermentedvegetablesboastmanynotablehealthbenefits,fromloadsofhealthyprobioticstoincreasedvitamincontentandimprovednutrientabsorption.

⊲FOOLPROOFRADISHANDONIONPICKLESStarthere.Inaprettyfoolproofprocess,radishpicklesremainanespeciallyeasyfirststep.Ialwayshaveajarofplainradishpicklesfermentingatmyhouse,simplybecausethey’resoeasytomakeandtastesogoodthatwetendtoeatthewholejarveryquickly.Thesemakeagreatbaseforgluten-free,low-carb,paleo,andveganappetizers,buttobehonest,IusuallyjusteatthemFrenchstyle,toppedwithabitofculturedbutterorentirelywithoutadornment.

Ingredients1/2pound(225g)largeheirloomorcherrybelleradishes,trimmedandunpeeled

1/2smallonion(2ounces,or50g),peeledandslicedintothinrounds

11/2teaspoons(9g)koshersalt

1cup(235ml)filteredwater

Cutanysoftorvisuallyunappealingpartsoutoftheradishes,butleaveasmuchaspossibleintact.Sliceinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)thickrounds.Layerradishandonionslicesintoawide-mouthpint(500ml)jar.Thereshouldbeabout11/2inches(4cm)ofspacebetweentheradishesandtherimofthejaroncethey’reallin.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthisbrineovertheradishes,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthevegetables.Youmayneedtopushtheradishesdownwithacleanfingertogaugethefullnessofthejar.

Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor6daysto2weeks.

Onceyourhappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilled.

Yield:1pint(450g)

CUMINBASILBEETSTheflavorsinthisrecipewerematchedoutofnecessity.Ihadagardenfullofbasilandaspicerackthatwasempty,saveacontainerofcuminseeds.Itwasserendipity,becauseIdon’tthinkIwouldhavediscoveredthisfavoritecomboifI’dhadotheroptions.Todate,thisremainsoneofthemostpopularpicklerecipesonmyblog,andeachyearatthestartofbeetseason,Igetatleastafewkindemailstellingmethattheyarethe“bestpicklesever.”

Ingredients4or5medium-smallbeets(1poundor450g),anyvariety,trimmedbutunpeeled

11/2teaspoons(3.5g)cuminseeds

1tablespoon(18g)koshersalt

2cups(470ml)filteredwater

1/8cup(3g)wholebasilleaves,tightlypackedorone6-inch(15cm)stembasil,forusepost-fermentation

Slicethebeetsinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)slices.

Putthecuminseedsinthebottomofaquartjar(1L)andstackthebeetslicesontop.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothejaruntilthebeetsarejustcovered.

Placethejaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1to2weeks.

Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidityofthebeets,removetheweight,packthebasilleavesintothejar,putthelidon,andsticktheminthefridge.

After2days,removethebasil.Enjoythepicklesatanytime.Storeinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

UsingHerbsandSpicesHerbs:Woodyherbslikethymeandrosemaryholdupjustfineinbrine,butleafierherbslikefreshbasil,mint,andoreganomaydobetterifaddedjustattheendoffermentationandremovedafteracoupleofdaysofinfusing.Tryitbothways.Theworstthingthatcanhappenisthattheherbswillbreakdownabitandtheflavoroftheherbsmaynotbeaspronouncedasyoumightlike.

Spices:Ipreferwholespicesandseedswheneverpossibleinabrinedferment.Powderedspicesaresometimesdifficulttokeepsubmerged,andanythingfloatingonthesurfacecaninviteunappealingsurfaceyeasts.Thisisn’ta100percentrule,butit’ssomethingtokeepinmindwhenyouhavetheoptionorifyoudoendupwithunexplainedsurfaceyeasts.

RUTABAGAHORSERADISHGINGERPICKLESIamalatecomertothepleasuresoffreshhorseradish.AsidefromacertainsaucefromacertainfastfoodrestaurantthatIadoredasakid,Iprettymuchignoredthisknobbyrootuntiljustafewyearsago.WhenIstartedbuyingthefreshrootandgratingit,Ilovedwhatsmallquantitiesadded.Inthisrecipe,itsflavorbalancesthenaturalsweetnessoftherutabaga,whilethefermentationprocessitselftamesthehorseradish.Thesepickleswouldmakeagreatadditiontoaroastbeefsandwich.

Ingredients1/2medium,unwaxedrutabaga(1/2pound,225g)

1inch(2.5cm)oftrimmed,unpeeledginger

1tablespoon(15g)grated,unpeeledhorseradishroot

Trimthetopoffoftherutabaga.Removeanddiscardanyunattractive,soft,orrootybits,butleaveitotherwiseunpeeled.

Cuttherutabagainto1/2-inch(1.5cm)thick,3-to4-inch(7.5to10cm)longbatons.Slicethegingerintothinrounds,cuttingoutanysoftpartsortough-to-cleancrevices.

Placethehorseradishandgingerinthebottomofapint(500ml)jarandstandtherutabagasticksontopofthem,tiltingthejartothesideabittomakeroomtoslidethepiecesinmoreeasily.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothejar,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthetopoftherutabaga.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor10daysto3weeks.

daysto3weeks.

Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.

Yield:1pint(450g)

RANDOMPICKLEGENERATORFermentationisflexible!Don’tbelieveme?Trythisrecipe.Allofthevegetableslistedherefermentverywell,especiallywhenfermentedinamix.Ihaven’ttestedeverypossibleiterationofthisrecipe,soIcan’tpromisethatyou’lllovethemall,butmostofthetime,thisishowIfermentforhomeuse.WhatdoIhaveintheproducedrawer?I’llusethat!Whatlooksgoodatthemarket?Oh,I’lltakethree!Ihopethisencouragesyoutousewhatyoualreadyhaveathometomakehealthfulanddeliciouspickles.

Ingredients1/4pound(115g)anycombinationofzucchini,summersquash,andbellpeppers

1/4pound(115g)anycombinationofonion,shallots,leeks,andgingerroot

1/2pound(225g)anycombinationofradishes,celery,beets,brusselssprouts,cauliflower,andcarrots

1or2clovesofgarlic(optional)

Chopthezucchini,summersquash,and/orbellpeppersinto1-to2-inch(2.5to5cm)thickstrips.Peelanddicetheonionsandshallots,slicetheleeksinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)rounds,andgratetheginger.Choptheradishes,celery,beets,brusselssprouts,cauliflower,and/orcarrotsinto1-inch(2.5cm)pieces.Peelandhalvethegarliccloves.

Placethegarlicinthebottomofaquart(1L)jarandplaceallthevegetablesontop,puttingthesmallestpiecesonthebottomandthelargestpiecesontop.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineoverthevegetables,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrinejustcoveringthevegetables.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperatureforabout2weeks.

forabout2weeks.

Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilled.

Yield:1quart(900g)

SNAPPYPEAPICKLESSnappeasarehardtoferment.Notbecausethey’reactuallydifficult,butbecauseyouhavetonoteatthemallonyourwayhomefromthemarketifyouwantthemtomakeittothejar.I’velearnedtobuydoublewhatIthinkI’llneedsothatIcanhaveafewpintsgoingthroughoutthespring.Besuretotrimtheends—itkeepsthepeascrispandreducestheoddsofunsightlysurfaceyeasts.

Zestof1lemon

Two2-inch(5cm)sprigsofgardenmint

2cups(150g)snappeas,endstrimmed

Placethelemonzestandmintinthebottomofapint(500ml)jarandthenaddthesnappeas.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthisbrineoverthepeas,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthevegetables.

Yield:1pint(450g)

Likepeppers,snappeasmayhaveabitmorewhitesedimentthanothervegetables.That’snormalandfine.

PICKLEMYJICAMALoversofMexicancuisinewillknowthefresh,juicyflavorofjicamawell.Ifrequentlypicklejicamawithwell-lovedflavorsofMexico,includinglime,garlic,radishes,andcilantro,soIwassurprisedwhen,onawhim,Isubbedthoseseasoningsoutinfavorofwholestaranise.Thewarmbakingspiceturnedouttobetheperfectcomplementtothecrisp,coolfleshofthejicama.Lookforathin-skinnedvegetablewithfewblemishesforaprimopickle.Ifyoucanonlyfindthicker-skinnedjicama,it’sfinetotrimthepeelsoffafterfermentation.

1small(3/4pound,340g)jicama

3wholestaranise

Cutanysoftpartsorblemishesfromtheoutsideofthejicama,butleaveitotherwiseunpeeled.Cutthejicamainto1/2inch(1.5cm)thicksticks.

Placethestaraniseinthebottomofapint(500ml)jar.Standthejicamaslicesonendinthejar,pressingthemtogetherasnecessarytofitthepiecesintothejar.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthisbrineintothejar,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthetopofthejicama.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1to2weeks.

Yield:1pint(450g)

⊲BÁNHMÌPICKLESAlthoughbánhmìactuallymeans“bread”inVietnamese,intheU.S.,thetermgenerallyreferstothedelightfulsandwichthatperfectlyalignsmanywonderfulflavorsandtextures.Unsurprisingly,myfavoritepartofabánhmìsandwichisthepickledmixofdaikonandcarrotthatprovidestexture,moisture,andloadsofflavor.Thisfermentedversionisnontraditional,withlesssweetnessandmoreflavorthanthetypicalblendfoundinsandwichshops.Ifyouwantthesweeterversiononyoursandwich,tossthefinishedpickleswith2teaspoons(12g)ofsugarpercup(225g)justbeforeserving.

Ingredients1daikon,about1pound(450g)

4carrots,about1pound(450g)total

4teaspoons(23g)koshersalt

1jalapeñopepper

11/2clovesofgarlic,peeled

Juliennethedaikonandcarrots.Placeinabowlandtosswiththesalt.

Slicethejalapeñolengthwiseintotwoequalhalves.Setitaside.

Thinlyslicethegarlicandtossitinwiththerootmixture.

Aftersittingwiththesaltforashortwhile,thecarrotsanddaikonwillhavereleasedsomemoisture.Takeasmallhandfulofthenowdampvegetablesandpackthemintoaquart(1L)jar.Lay1jalapeñohalfcut-sideagainstthesideofthejar,pushthepointedendintothevegetablemixtureatthebottomofthejar,andpacktherootsinaroundit.Oncethepepperisheldinplace,puttheotherjalapeñohalfagainstanothersideofthejarandpackmoredaikoncarrotmixturearoundituntilallofthevegetablesareinthejarandthejalapeñohalvesarepressedagainstthesidesofthejar.

Pressdownonthevegetablesinthejartodrawthemaximumamountofbrinetothesurface.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1weekoruntilthedesiredacidityisachieved.

Yield:1quart(900g)

VegetableA-peelAlthoughwashingvegetablesincoolwaterisgreat,peelingvegetablesforfermentationisano-no.Themajorityofthebacterianecessaryforfermentationliveontheskinsofvegetables.Apeeledvegetablemayfailtoferment,oritmayfermentextraordinarilyslowly,leadingtoissueswithtextureormold.

CURRIEDCAULIFLOWERPICKLESCauliflowerandcurryareaclassiccombinationforgoodreason.Iliketoservethesepicklesalongsideseasonedricedishesorinwintersalads(trythemwithdressedkale).Thisrecipeisanexceptiontotheno-powdered-spices-in-brinerule.Thecurrypowderwillmostlysitatthebottomofthejar,butitsflavorwillinfusethroughoutthebrineduringfermentation.

1tablespoon(6.5g)currypowder

1/2head(12ounces,or340g)cauliflower,choppedintosmallflorets

2cups(470ml)filteredwater,atroomtemperature

Placethecurrypowderinaquart(1L)jarandthenaddtheflorets.Thefloretsmayneedtobemaneuveredabittofit,butdon’tpushthemsohardthattheybreakapart.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineovertheflorets,pressingthemdownwithcleanfingerstomakesurethey’resubmerged.Thejarshouldbefulltoabout11/2inches(4cm)belowtherim.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor10daysto2weeks.Thetextureofthecauliflowerwillremainlargelyunchanged.

Yield:1quart(900g)

⊲CURRIEDCAULIFLOWERPICNICSALADThisismygo-topicnicpotluckcontribution.Withtheexceptionofthelow-fatcrowd,thisisdoableforjustaboutanydiet.Ifyou’rebringingittoagatheringwithveganfriends,subveganmayo.Ifyourfriendsareallpaleo,considerahomemadeversionmadewithyourfavoritenutoil.Whichevermayoyouuse,thisisacrowd-pleaser,anditneverlastslong.

1/3cup(75g)mayonnaise

2teaspoons(10g)Dijonorsweethotmustard

1quart(900g)CurriedCauliflowerPickles,drained

2stalksofcelery,trimmedandslicedcrosswise

2scallions,trimmedandslicedintothinrounds

Combinethemayonnaiseandmustardinalargebowl.Addthecauliflowerandtosstocoat.Mixintheceleryandscallions.Enjoychilled.

Yield:4servings(1cup[225g]each)

RAW-TATOUILLEThistakeonafamoustasteofProvencemakesuseofthebestend-of-summervegetables.Unlikethecookedversion,thisrawratatouilleisloadedwithprobioticbacteriaandmakesanexcellentsummersaladoncechilledanddrained.YoucanuseyourowncombinationofMediterraneanspicesifyoulike,buttheherbesdeProvencespiceblendcalledforintherecipe(acombinationofsavory,marjoram,rosemary,thyme,oregano,andsometimeslavender)willhaveyoudreamingofwhitewashed,cliff-sidedwellingsandblueseas.

Ingredients1/2smallItalianeggplant(7ounces,or200g),cutinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)slices

1/2redbellpepper(3ounces,or75g),stem,seeds,andpithremoved

1/4largeonion(2ounces,or60g),peeled

2teaspoons(2.5g)whole-spiceherbesdeProvence

3smallzucchini(13ounces,or360g),endstrimmed,cutinto3/4-inch(2cm)cubes

2smallyellowsummersquash(81/2ounces,or240g),endstrimmed,cutinto3/4-inch(2cm)cubes

11/2tablespoons(27g)koshersalt

1/2cup(20g)freshbasilleaves,chopped,forgarnish

Quartertheeggplantslicesandchopthebellpepperandonioninto1-inch(2.5cm)squares.

PlacetheherbesdeProvenceintoa1/2-gallon(2L)jar(orsplitevenlybetween2quart[1L]jars).Placeallthevegetablesinthejar.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineoverthevegetables,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineintothejar.

Placeyourjaronaplateandallowtofermentatroomtemperatureinaspotawayfromdirectsunlightfor5to7days.Whenready,thevegetablesshouldtastequitetangy,butthezucchinishouldstillbecrisp.

tastequitetangy,butthezucchinishouldstillbecrisp.

Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Storeinthebrine,butdrainandtosswiththechoppedbasilbeforeservingasasidedish.

Yield:2quarts(1.8kg)

MINTYHAKUREITURNIPSHakureiturnipsaretheperfectlyround,diminutive,whiteturnipsthathavetakenfarmers’marketsacrossthecountrybystorminrecentyears.TheyhailfromJapanandtheirflavorismilderthantheirlargerturnipcounterparts.Theyhaveadelightful,juicycrunchthatlendsitselfperfectlytopickling.Whilemintmaybeanunexpectedpairing,itmakesforatrulyrefreshingpickle.

Ingredients1pound(450g)hakureiorothersmallturnips,greensremoved

Three3-inch(7.5cm)sprigsoffreshgardenmint,forusepost-fermentation

Trimandquartertheunpeeledturnipsandplacetheminaquart(1L)jar.Thereshouldbeaboutaninch(2.5cm)ofspacebetweenthetopofthevegetablesandtherimofthejar.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothejar,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthevegetables.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperature,awayfromdirectsunlight,for1to2weeks.

Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweightandstickthemintspringsintothejar,weightingthemdownwithpickles.Securethelidandplacethejarinthefridge.After3days,youmayremovethemintsprigs.Yourmintyturnipsarereadytoeat!

Yield:1quart(900g)

CARROTCARAWAYTURNIPSLICESIfIhadinventedthedeli,carrotturnippickleswouldprobablybethestandardpickle.Thisworkswellasbothasandwichfillingandasandwichaccompaniment.Lineasliceofbreadwithafewofthesebabiesanditprettymuchdoesn’tmatterwhatelseyouadd.

Ingredients

1turnip(1/2pound,or225g)

1smallcarrot(1/4pound,or115g)

1teaspoon(2g)carawayseeds

1teaspoon(4g)mustardseeds

1teaspoon(6g)salt

1/2cup(120ml)filteredwater

Trimthetopoffoftheturnip.Removeanddiscardanyunattractive,soft,orrootybits,butleaveitotherwiseunpeeled.

Cuttheturnipandcarrotinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)thickslices.Iftheturnipsliceshaveadiameterwiderthanthediameterofthejar,simplycuttheminhalf.

Placethecarawayandmustardseedsinapint(500ml)jarandlayertheturnipandcarrotslicesontop.

Yield:1pint(450g)

ASPARAGUSPICKLESWhenIspotlocalasparagusintheproducesection,Iknowthatthedaysofsnuggiesandstewsarecomingtoanend.Ialwaysmakeanearlyspringbatchofthesepicklestoreorientmytastebudstothecool,freshflavorsofwarmerseasons.Lookformedium-widthasparagusspearsthatareroughlyequalinsize.Servetheseasasidedishorasabeautifulbedforpoachedeggsatbrunch.

Ingredients1pound(450g)asparagus

1teaspoon(4g)mustardseeds

3clovesofgarlic,peeled

Peel(withoutpith)of1/2ofalemon

Trimthewoodyendsoffoftheasparagusspears.Takeonespearandstanditinaquart(900g)jar.Itstipshouldfall1to2inches(2.5to5cm)belowtherimofthejar.Ifthespearistootall,trimmore,testagain,andthentrimallotherpiecestomatchitslength.

Placethemustardseeds,garlic,andlemonpeelintoaquart(1L)jarandthenfittheasparagusspearsintothejar,standingthespearsonend.Tiltingthejarsidewayswillhelpyoufitmorespearsinwithoutdamagingthem.Donotcramordamagethespears.Smashedendsmayleadtounpleasantsliminess.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthisbrineovertheasparagus,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthevegetables.

for5daysto2weeks.

Yield:1quart(900g)

⊲PINTOFPICKLEDPEPPERSThefirsttimeImadepickledpeppers,Iwasprettysad.Itwasearlyinmyfermentationhabit,andIhadgrownaccustomedtoaset,2-weekfermentationtimeresultinginflawlesspicklesofallkinds.WhenIcrackedthatpepperjar,theywereverysoft.Theysmelledincredible,soItookabite(theytastedgreat),butthatwaswhenIlearnedthatnotallvegetableswerecreatedequalwherefermentationisconcernedandsomerequirelesstime.Isometimesstillfermentthemforlongerthan2weeks,thentossthemintosaladsortoppizzaswiththem,butforacrispybellpepper,5to6daysdoesthetrick.

Ingredients1smallredbellpepper,stems,pith,andseedsremoved

1smallgreenbellpepper,stems,pith,andseedsremoved

2clovesofgarlic,peeledandroasted

Zestof1lemon

1teaspoon(3g)capers

1teaspoon(1.5g)packedfreshoreganoleaves(or1/2teaspoon[0.5g]dried)

Pinchofredpepperflakes(optional)

1sprigofbasil,leftwhole

Slicethepeppersinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)strips.Placethegarlic,lemonzest,capers,oregano,andredpepperflakesinapint(500ml)jar.Gentlypackthepepperstripsin,standingthemonendtocreateastripedappearancewhenthejarisviewed.Alternatingredandgreenslicesmakesforaprettypickle.

Pressthebasilsprigintothemiddleofthepeppers.Thisisarelativelyshortfermentationperiod,soyoudon’thavetoworryaboutitbecomingmushy.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthisbrineoverthepeppers,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthetopoftheradishes.Aspaceshouldremainatthetopofthejaroncethebrinehasbeenadded.

shouldremainatthetopofthejaroncethebrinehasbeenadded.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to6days.

Yield:1pint(450g)

Pepperpicklebrinebecomesquitecloudyduringfermentation,sodon’tbeconcernedifthishappenstoyours.

⊲ROSEMARYRUTABAGAThissimplecombinationwasinspiredbyadishImadeformyveryfirstThanksgivinginCalifornia.AtmyMichiganfamily’sfeast,mashedrutabagaisderigueur.MyCalifornianin-lawsweren’tquiteasattachedtothisunderappreciatedvegetablesuperstar,soImadeitmybusinesstoconvincethem—usingcopiousamountsofgarlicandafewsprigsfromtheenormousrosemarybushthatlived,year-round,outsidemyMontereyapartment.Morethanoneofmynewrelativeswaswonoverbythehumblerootthatday,andnowImakethedishwheneverIvisitfortheholidays.

Ingredients1/2largeunwaxedrutabaga(12ounces,or340g)

2clovesofgarlic,peeledandthinlysliced

Two5-inch(13cm)sprigsoffreshrosemary

Trimthetopoffoftherutabaga.Removeanddiscardanyunattractive,soft,orrootybits,butleaveitotherwiseunpeeled.

Usingamandoline,ifpossible,cuttherutabagainto1/4inch(0.5cm)widematchsticks.Ifpreppingbyhand,cut1/4-inch(0.5cm)slicesandthencuteachsliceinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)matchsticks.

Inalargebowl,tossthegarlicandrutabagawiththesaltusingcleanhands.Continuetossingandgentlysqueezethevegetablesuntiltheyaredampandthereisasmallamountofliquidinthebottomofthebowl.

Packathirdoftherutabagamixtureintothebottomofapint(500ml)jar.Packtightly,withcleanfingers.Wraponesprigofrosemaryaroundtheinsideofthejar,aspictured.Packanotherthirdoftherutabagamixtureontopandrepeatwithfinalthirdofrutabaga.Pouranyliquidfromthebowlintothejar.

Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilledoratroomtemperature.

Yield:1pint(450g)

NUTTYBRUSSELSSPROUTPICKLESOneofmyveryfavoritewaystoeatbrusselssproutsisthebraisedandglazedsproutsfromMarkBittman’sHowtoCookEverything.Imaketherecipeexactlyasdirectedrightupuntiltheend,whenIaddabitofroastedgarlic,somechoppedhazelnuts,andaspoonfulofmustardtofinishthemoff.IlovetheflavorssomuchthatIdecidedtheywouldmakeanexcellentpickle.Theydo!There’snoneedtogettheskinsoffthehazelnuts.Thefermentationprocessneutralizesthebitternessthatyousometimesgetwhencookingorbakinghazelnutswiththeskinon.Brusselssproutsdefinitelyfallintothestinkyfermentcamp,sobepreparedforabitofextraaroma.

Ingredients1pound(450g)brusselssprouts,trimmed

20hazelnuts,chopped

2tablespoons(22g)mustardseed

Cuteachbrusselssproutinhalflengthwise.Placethegarlic,hazelnuts,andmustardseedsintoaquart(1L)jar.Topwiththebrusselssprouthalves.Youmayneedtomaneuverthebrusselssproutssothattheyfitinthejarwith1to2inches(2.5to5cm)ofspacebelowtherimofthejar.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to6weeksorlongerincoldermonths.

Yield:1quart(900g)

ZUCCHINIBREADPICKLESIhaveanenduringloveforzucchinibreadthatdoesn’tjivesowellwithmydesiretoavoidloadsofprocessedsugar.Sowhenmyhusband,Jake,suggestedItrymakingapickleversion,IonlycalledhimcrazythreetimesbeforeIgottoworkonarecipe.Thispickleisn’tsweet,butitmightjustreplaceyoursweettoothwithasourone.

Ingredients5smallzucchini,endstrimmed(1pound,or450g)

1largepinchofpowderednutmeg,preferablyfreshlyground

1tablespoon(2g)looseblacktea,or2or3teabags

2tablespoons(15g)coarselychoppedwalnuts

2cinnamonsticks

Cutthezucchinilengthwiseintoquarters.

Placethenutmeg,tea,walnuts,andcinnamonsticksintoaquart(1L)jarinthatorder.Fitthezucchinipiecesintothejar,standingthespearsonend.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothezucchini,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthezucchini.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperatureinaspotawayfromdirectsunlightfor4days.Goadayshorterifyourhomeisparticularlywarmoradaylongerifyourhomeisparticularlycool.

Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavorandacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridgeforuptoaweek(oruntiltheyarenolongercrisp).See“CucumbersandOtherTrickyPickles”onpage69forzucchinipicklingtips.

Yield:1quart(900g)

WhattoDowithaFloppyPickleJustbecauseafermenthasgonesoftinthebackofthefridgedoesn’tmeanit’sreadyforthecompostpile.Softnessmightmeanafermentispastitsprimefromatexturestandpoint,butitdefinitelydoesn’tmeanithasnomoretooffer.Fermentedpicklesandtheirbrinesareloadedwithflavorandacid,whichmakesthemgreatcandidatesforculinaryexperimentation.Addthemtosoupsorstews.Strainandpuréethemintodipsorsauces.Yourimaginationistheonlylimitonthesecondlifeofthesekitchenheroes.

⊲SWEETPOTATOFRYNESTSAFrenchchefonceexplainedtomethatalthoughhepridedhimselfonfrom-scratchcooking,henevermadefriesin-house.“It’simpossibletodothemrightinakitchenthissize,”hesaid.HewentontoexplainthattheonlywaytogetareallygreatFrenchfrywastosoakthepotatoesforatleast36hoursbeforefrying.Essentially,allgreatfries(likeallgreatfood,inmybiasedopinion)arefermentedbeforethey’refried.Thefermentationprocesseliminatestheriskofaharmfulcompoundcalledacrylamidefromformingduringcookingandgreatlyimprovesthetextureofthefinalfries.Therearetwooptionshere,bakedanddeep-fried.Unsurprisingly,thefriedversionisgreatlypreferredbymyfriendsandfamily,butthebakedversiondoescomeoutcrispyandbetterthanthevastmajorityofrestaurantshoestringfriesyou’lleverorder.AndlikeanygreatFrenchfry,thisisdefinitelynothealthfood.Enjoywithketchuporpoachedeggsandkale.

Ingredients1largesweetpotato(2pounds,or900g),spiralized,skinon

11/2cups(355ml)filteredwater

1quart(940ml)high-heatoil

Placethesweetpotatoesinaquart(1L)jar.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothejar,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthesweetpotatoes.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to7days.

Draintheliquidfromthesweetpotatoesandspreadthemoutinasinglelayeronalargekitchentowel.Patdry.

Pourtheoilintoa3-quart(2.7L),heavy-bottomedpotandheatto400°F(200°C).Whileyou’rewaitingfortheoiltoheat,continuepattingthesweetpotatoesdry.Pullthemapartandpilethemupsothateachlongstrandbecomesalittlenest.Therewillbeafewoddsandends.Thosecanbemadeintotheirownpilesofsimilarsizetothesingle-strandnests.

Lineaplatterwithpapertowels.

Oncetheoiltemperaturehits400°F(200°C),it’stimetostartfrying.Workinginbatches,useaspoontolowereachnestintotheoil.Fry3or4nestsatatimetoavoidovercrowding.Fryfor45secondsto1minute.Ifthey’vestartedbrowning,they’vegonetoolong.Useaslottedspoontoremovethemandplacethemonthepapertowels.

Allowthetemperaturetoreturnto400°F(200°C)beforefryingthenextbatch.Repeatuntilallofthepotatoeshavebeenfried.Theoilcanbereusedforotherpurposesforseveraldays.

Yield:Approximately20frynests

Variations:Addthezestof1smalllemonand2teaspoonsofdriedsageleavestothejarbeforeaddingthesweetpotatoesforfermentation.Discardtheseasoningsbeforefrying.

Forbakednests:Tossthedrainedsweetpotatoeswith1to2tablespoons(15to30ml)ofoliveormeltedcoconutoil.Separateintonestsandbake

themonparchmentpaperat400°f(200°c,orgasmark6)for15minutesoruntilcrispy.

COCKTAILONIONRINGSTheclassicpearlonionspickledforcocktailusecanbeapaininthealliumtopeel.Iavoidthatproblembymakingtheseonion“rings”instead.Theyfitnicelyinamartiniglassandrequiremuchlesseffort.Teetotalerscanenjoythesepiledhighonaburgerorsandwich.

2medium-smallonions(51/2ounces,or150geach),peeled

8juniperberries

2allspiceberries

Peelof1lemon

1tablespoon(5g)peppercorns

2bayleaves

3-inch(7.5cm)sprigoffreshthyme

Cuttheonionsinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)slices.

Placetheseasoningsintoawide-mouthpint(500ml)jarandstacktheonionslicesontopofthem,fillingthejarto11/2inches(4cm)belowtherim.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthebrineintothejar,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineovertheonions.

Yield:1pint(450g)

Theonionsforthisrecipeshouldbechosenfortheirdiameter(slicesneedtobeabletostackinsidethejar).Ifyourwidestonionsliceisalittletoowide,justremoveanouterringanduseitforanotherpurpose.

⊲DIRTYGIBSONWhenlife(oryourownhandykitchenskills)givesyoupickledonions,makegindrinks!Willdrinkingthismakeyouhealthier,wealthier,orwiser?Nope!Butitwillmakeyourtastebudssing.

1or2CocktailOnionRings

4teaspoons(20ml)brinefromCocktailOnionRings

21/2ounces(75ml)gin

3/4teaspoon(4ml)dryvermouth

Placetheonionringsinamartiniglass.Shakethebrine,gin,andvermouthwithiceinacocktailshakerandstrainintoaglass.Servechilled.

Yield:1cocktail

CLASSICDILLPICKLESPEARSItisprettyhardtobeatadelipickle.Theseflavorscanbeagatewaytoawholeworldoffermentedfun.Believeitornot,though,theclassicpickleisoneofthemostdifficulttomake.Followthetipsandtricksonthenextpage,andyou’lldojustfine.

Ingredients1pound(450g)freshlypickedKirbycucumbers

1tablespoons(11g)mustardseeds

1bulbofgarlic,peeled

2teaspoons(3.5g)peppercorns

4dillheadsor1/2abunchoffreshdill

4grapeleaves

Washthecukeswellandsoaktheminicewaterfor30minutes.Thistendstohelpthemstayfirmduringfermentation.

Removeanddiscardaverythinslicefromeachendofthecucumbers.Cutthecucumbersintolongquarters.

Placethemustardseeds,garlic,peppercorns,dillheads,andgrapeleavesintoaquart(1L)jarandaddthecucumberspears.

Mixthesaltintowateruntildissolvedandpourthisbrineoverthecucumbers,ensuringthatthereisathinlayerofbrineoverthevegetables.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3days.

Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Allowtheflavorstoinfuseforanotherweekbeforeeating.Oncethey’reready,enjoywithin2weeksforbesttexture.

within2weeksforbesttexture.

Yield:1quart(900g)

CucumbersandOtherTrickyPicklesCucumbersareeasilythemosticonicvegetabletopickle.Andyet,they’reprobablythemostdifficultvegetabletoferment!Hereareafewsimpletricksthatwillhaveyoumakingperfectcucumberpickleseverytime.Thesetipsalsohelpwithzucchini(ZucchiniBreadPickles,page63),summersquash,andothersoftvegetables.

•Keepitshort.Withmostvegetablefermentation,timingisrelative.Thelongeritferments,themoresouritwillbe,soitbecomesamatterofpreference.Withsoftvegetableslikecucumbers,however,theshortertimingrecommendationsineachrecipeshouldbemorestrictlyobserved;otherwise,youmayopenupajarofmushinsteadofagorgeous,crispypickle.

•Trytannins.Mushytextureandhollowpicklesyndromearecommonproblemsthatarisewhenpicklingcucumbers.Onewaytohelppreventtheseissuesistoaddtannins.Tannins(seepage160)helpstrengthenthepectinsinthevegetablesandkeeppicklescrispy!

•Removetheblossomend.Theblossomend,orthenon-stemend,ofacucumberisasafehavenforthekindsofenzymesthatcausefoodtorot.Removingthetiniestsliveroftheblossomendremovessomeofthoseenzymes,resultinginacrisperpickleandonelesslikelytoturntomush.

•Gosmall.Smallerisbetterwhenitcomestocucumberfermentation,anddon’tevenbothertryingtofermentslicers.SticktothesmallestKirbys(smallpicklingcucumbers)youcanfind.

•Seasonfreely.Perhapsit’sbecausethey’reoftenleftwholeduringfermentation,butcucumberpicklesrequiremoreseasoningthanotherpickledvegetables.WhereImightuseacoupleclovesofgarlicforabeetpickle,I’duseabulbforacucumberpickle.Thisistrueforherbsandspicesaswell.

•Fermenttheharvest.Thefreshnessofthecucumberisprobablythemostimportantconsiderationonthislist.Don’tbotherwithgrocerystorecucumbers;growthemyourselforbuythemfromafarmers’marketand

makesurethatyougetthemsubmergedinbrineassoonasyoucan.Evenafewdaysoffthevinecanmakeforaholloworsoftpickle.

•Eat’emup.Mostfermentedvegetableswilleasilylastformonthsinthefridge(notthatyou’llbeabletoresistthemforthatlong!).Cucumberpickleswilloccasionallykeepfortwoormoremonths(Ioncefoundaperfectjarayearafterfermentation!),butmorecommonly,you’llwanttoeatthemquickly,whiletheystillhavethebest,crispbite.

Iliveintherealworld.Iknowthat,althoughfewthingsmakemymouthwatermorethanthethoughtofcrackingintoajarofthisclassicfermentedfood,theideaoffermentedcabbagecanbechallengingfortheuninitiated.Thosewho’vejoinedtheclanofkrautmakers,though,knowthat“fermented”issynonymouswith“delicious.”

Forfermenterswholiketoexperiment,sauerkrautcanbeablankcanvasonwhichtopaintapictureassimpleorascomplexasyoulike.AjaroftheSimplestSauerkraut(page76)isanythingbutplain.Theacidsandothercompoundscreatedduringfermentationgiveitanenormousamountofdistinctiveflavor,eventhoughnoseasoningshavebeenadded.Whenyoudoaddseasonings,youcantakesauerkrautindirectionsthatmayinitiallyseemsurprising(SauerkrautSatay,page90).Thepoweroffermentationsomehowmanagestobringitalltogetherbeautifully.Itisnoexaggerationtosaythatsauerkrautcanbeenjoyedateverymeal,includingdessert(CarrotCakeKraut,page98).

SimplestSauerkraut

Ava’sHotPinkKraut

StuffingKraut

KrautytheVampireSlayer

ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut

SauerkrautSlaw

Heat-Lover’sKraut

DillyRootKraut

MediterraneanKraut

NewWorldRyeKraut

NutsforKraut

SauerkrautSatay

GingerBeetKraut

SauerkrautPickledEggs

MirepoixKraut

SuperSourCitrusKraut

PreservedLemonGingerKraut

CarrotCakeKraut

TipsandGuidelinesThegeneralprinciplesoffermentationlaidoutinpartoneapplytotherecipesinthischapter,buthereareafewsauerkraut-specifictipsandguidelines.

ChoosingtheCabbageRed,green,andsavoyareonlyafractionofyourcabbageoptions.HereinPennsylvania(otherwiseknowasAmericanKrautCountry),farmers’marketssometimesoffersuchawidevarietyofheirloomcabbagesthatitcangetoverwhelming.Ihaveyettofermentacabbagethatdidn’tmakedelectablekraut,butthevaryingwatercontentandleafdensityofdifferentvarietiescanmakeforaslightlydifferentfinalproduct.Redcabbage,forinstance,takesabitlongertofermenttothatclassickrauttexturethangreendoes.It’snothingtobeconcernedwith.Ifyouseeabeautifulcabbagethatyoureallywanttouse,doit,andgloryintheminordifferencesthatmakethatbatchunique.

CuttingtheCabbageForsomepeople,theactofchoppingcabbageforsauerkrautisamomentofZeninahecticworld—awaytounwindwithsomehands-oninteraction.Ifthat’syou,gonuts.Havesomelargebowlsandaverysharpchef’sknifeonhand.Cutoutthecore,removeanywiltedouterleaves,andshootforstripsthatarerelativelyuniformandabout1/4inch(0.5cm)wide.

Forthelazyamongus(that’sme!),therearefoodprocessorswithslicingandgratingblades,boxgraters,mandolines,andevenspecializedcabbageshredders

gratingblades,boxgraters,mandolines,andevenspecializedcabbageshreddersmadeforthisexpresspurpose.Dowhatworksbestforyou.

Withfewexceptions,thecabbageinthischapterwasshreddedusingtheslicerbladeonmyfoodprocessor,intoapproximately1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Recipesthatweregratedwillbenotedassuchintherecipe.Thesaltingprocessdrainswaterfromthecabbageandshrinksitsignificantlyasaresult.IfyouchoosetograteyourcabbagewhereI’veslicedit,knowthatsmallerpiecesfermentabitmorequickly,soyoumightwanttostarttastingforyourpreferredaciditylevelaweekorsoearlierthantherecipecallsfor.Smallerpiecesalsotakeuplessjarspaceandabsorbseasoningsmorereadily,soaddacouplemoreounces(15to30g)ofcabbageandreducetheseasoningsabitifyoudecidetoadapttherecipesthisway.

Youcanalsoopttoleavethehardcabbagecoreinthefermentifyou’dlike,butthosepiecesfermentmoreslowlythantherestofthecabbage,sobepreparedforsomedivergenttexturesandaciditylevelswithinyourkraut.Ifyouwantamoreuniformkrautbutdon’twanttocompostthecores,slicethemthinandfermentthemseparatelyinbrineascabbagecorepickles.

SavingtheLeavesWhenyou’repreppingyourheadofcabbage,besuretoremoveanyouterleavesthatareabitwiltedandlessthanlovely.Seethe“HowtoMakeaCabbageShelf”(page75)forhowtoputthemtogooduse.

MassagingtheCabbageTreatyourcabbagetoaspaday!Gentlymassagingyourcabbageaftersaltinghelpsthesaltpenetratethecellwallsandincreasesthespeedwithwhichthecabbagegivesupitsinternalwater.Whenyousaltthecabbage,tosswellforevendistributionandthenleaveitalonefor20minutesorsowhileyouprepareyourotheringredients.Whenyoucomeback,thesaltedcabbagewillbemorepliable—relaxed,highonincensefumes,andlisteningtothesweetmelodiesofthepanflutewhileitawaitsthegentlepressureofyourhandsthatwilltransformitintoajar-readysubstance.

PackingaJarorCrockPackingyourvesselisoneofthemostimportantsteps.Whenapproachedproperly,youshouldlookatthebowlofsaltedcabbageandthink,“Thereisnowayallthatcabbageisgoingtofitintothatjar.”

Workingwithsmallhandfulstostart,carefullypackthecabbageintothejarsothatitsliquidrisestothetop.Onceyouhavethejaraboutone-thirdfull,press

sothatitsliquidrisestothetop.Onceyouhavethejaraboutone-thirdfull,pressdownonthejarredcabbagewithaflatfist.Holdingyourfistthere,useyourotherhandtopourthecabbageliquidoutofthejar.Thatwillgiveyouroomtoaddmorecabbage.

AddingSeasoningsUnlikebrinedpickles,sauerkrautadorespowderedspices.You’lllikelyloseabitofseasoning,beitwholeorpowderedspices,intheextrabrinethatresultsfromsaltingandnevermakesitintoyourjar,andthat’sallright.Youcanmitigatethatbydrainingtheexcessliquidoffaftermassaging,butpriortomixingtheseasoningsin.Reservethatdrainedliquid,though.Youmayneedtopoursomeofitbackintoyourjarasaliquidbarrieronceallofthecabbageispackedinside.

Pouringliquidoutmakesroomformorecabbage.

FermentingConditionsSauerkrautgenerallybenefitsfromalongerandcoolerfermentationtime.

Sauerkrautgenerallybenefitsfromalongerandcoolerfermentationtime.Althoughitwillbesafetoeatafterjustafewdaysofroomtemperaturefermentation,itdoesn’treachpeakflavorandtextureuntilseveralweekshavepassed.Iencourageyoutotastefrequentlyduringyourfirstattempttofindoutwhatyourpreferenceis.Sauerkrautbecomesmoresourthelongeritferments.

BubblingYoursauerkrautwillbubblevigorouslyintheearlydays,butthatactivitywillslowasthepredominantbacteriapopulationshifts.Thisisnormalandgood.Justbecauseitisn’tbubblingvigorouslydoesnotmeanthatfermentationhasstopped.

HowtoMakeaCabbageShelfThoseless-than-perfectoutercabbageleavesyousetasidearegoodformorethanthecompostpile.Thatsturdyribmakesagreatshelfforyourchosenfermentationweight,andtheleafypartarounditcanbetuckeddownaroundthesidesofyourkrautorpiledupandpresseddownontopoftherib,creatingalayerthatprotectsthesurfaceofyoursauerkrautfromanysurfaceyeaststhatcouldform.

Tomakeyourshelf,simplytearawaytheouteredgesofaleafuntilyou’releftwithapiecethatisroughlytwiceaslargeasyourjaropening.Presstheribontothetopofthecabbageandtucktheleafyendsdownaroundthesidesofthekraut.Poursomeoftheremainingbrineoverthetopoftheleaf,leaving11/2to2inches(4to5cm)ofspacebetweenthesurfaceofthebrineandtherimofthejar.

Whenthekrauttastessourenough,youcandiscardtheleafandrefrigeratethekraut.

⊲SIMPLESTSAUERKRAUTInitssimplestform,sauerkrauthasjusttwoingredients:saltandcabbage.Considerthisrecipethejumping-offpointforallotherrecipesinthischapter.Useittogainanunderstandingofthesimplicityoftheprocessandthefactthateverythingelseisoptional.Tastingatwo-ingredientkrautcangiveyouaseriousappreciationfortheimmenseamountofflavorthatcomesfromthefermentationprocessalone.

Ingredients2pounds(900g)cabbage

Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage.Keeponehandy.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbageincoolwater.

Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestripsusingasharpchef’sknife,theslicerbladeofyourfoodprocessor,amandoline,orakrautshredder.

Placetheshreddedcabbageintoalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.Thesalthassuccessfullydrawnsomewaterfromthecabbage.

Younowhavetheoptionofcontinuingtogentlymassageandsqueezethecabbageorlettingthesaltandcabbagecontinueosmosiswhileyougodosomethingelsefor20minutes.Ifyouletitsitabit,theworkofkneadingthecabbagetoreleaseasmuchwateraspossiblewillbeeasierwhenyoureturn.

Workitforanotherfewminutes.Whenthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed(aspictured),youarereadytostartpackingyourjar.

Takeahandfulofcabbageinyourdominanthandandacleanquart(1L)jarintheother.Pressthecabbageintothebottomofthejarandpackitalongthebottomwiththetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,

pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomestoabout11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowthejarrim.

Ifthere’sstillcabbagethathasn’tbeenpackedintothejar,pressdownonthetopofthecabbageinthejarandtiltittopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.Thiswillgiveyoumorespaceinwhichtopacktheremainingcabbage.

Usethecabbageleafyoureservedtocreatea“cabbageshelf”(see“HowtoMakeaCabbageShelf,”page75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leaveatleast1inch(2.5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowthekrauttofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to6weeks,dependingonthewarmthofyourhome.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.Ifthebrineisseverelydepleted,youmaywanttoaddmore,ataconcentrationofabout5percent(seesaltchartsonpage200),butthereshouldn’tbeaneedtodothis.

Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

Ava’sKrautat1day(left)and2weeks(right).

⊲AVA’SHOTPINKKRAUTCookingwithkidsisagreatwaytogettheminterestedinmakinghealthierchoices.Myextendedfamilydoesnotalwayssharemyenthusiasmforfermentedvegetables,soIrecruitedmyniece,Ava,tohelpmemakeaversionthatwouldpleaseherpalateandcatertoherloveofthecolorpink.I’mnotsurehermomwassuperhappywhenIhandedhermychef’sknifetoremovethecore,butmyniecesurehadfunsqueezingthecabbage.

Ingredients

11/2pounds(675g)greencabbage

1/2pound(225g)redcabbage

1teaspoon(2g)cuminseeds

2teaspoons(7g)mustardseeds

3juniperberries

Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.

Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabit,tomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.

Addthecuminandmustardseedstothemixandcontinuetossingandmassagingthecabbage.

Placethejuniperberriesintoacleanquart(1L)jarandthenpackthemixture.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourcabbageliquidbackintothebowl.

Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave11/2to2inches(4to5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.

Redcabbagejuiceisabeautiful,vibrantpurplethatwillstainjustaboutanything,soplaceyourjaronasmallplateorinasmallplasticbagforthedurationoffermentation.Ontheoffchancethatyourjarbubblesover,stainswon’tbeaconcern.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.

Yield:1quart(900g)

STUFFINGKRAUTWhenadearfriendwasdiagnosedwithceliacdiseaseshortlybeforeourannualholidayparty,Iimmediatelywenttoworktomakesureshecouldstillhavesomeofherfavoritegluten-yflavors,whileavoidingtheserioushealthcomplications.Thisstuffingsubstitutedoesthetrick.

1smallonion(100g),diced

3stalksofcelery,trimmedanddiced

1tablespoon(4.5g)driedthyme

4teaspoons(2.3g)driedsageleaves

Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabit,tomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Addtheonion,celery,thyme,andsageandmixtodistributeevenly.

Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.Packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashionuntilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifthere’sstillcabbagethathasn’tbeenpackedintothejaryet,pressdownonthetopofthecabbageinthejarandtiltittopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.Thiswillgiveyoumorespaceinwhichtopacktheremainingcabbage.

Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2

inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.

Yield:1quart(900g)

KRAUTYTHEVAMPIRESLAYERGarliclovers,thisone’sforyou!Thisrecipeisincrediblysimple,butthekeystepofroastingthegarliciswhatmakesthiskrautspecial.Fermentationmellowsthegarlicsubstantially,soeventhegarliclikersinyourfamilywillwanttogettheirhandsonthisroasty,complex,andimperiallygarlickysauerkraut.Don’tjudgeitbyitsearlydays;afterjust2weeksoffermentation,thiskrautwilllosethegarlicpungencyandgainawonderfuldepthofflavor.Ifyouintendtofermentfor4to6weeks,add1/2abulbmoreofgarlic.Onebulbworksgreatfora2-to4-weekfermentationperiod.

Ingredients2pounds(900g)greencabbage

1bulbofgarlic,peeledandroasteduntilsoftbutnotbrowned

Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.

Gratethecabbageintoalargebowlandaddthesalt.Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabittomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.

Breaktheroastedgarlicclovesintopiecesanddropthemintothecabbagemixture.Tossandkneadthemixture,distributingthegarlicasevenlyaspossible.

Packthekrautintoacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.

Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to6weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttobringsomebrineuptothetop.

Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Enjoychilled.

Yield:1quart(900g)

CHOOSEYOUROWNADVENTUREKRAUTWhenyoumakethiskraut,thepowerisyours!Hateonions?Leavethemout.Sickofspices?Don’tbother!Havenothinginyourfridgebutacelerystalk,halfabeet,andalemonslice?Usethemup.Followyourownpathtoanexcitingandtastyblendoffermentedvegetables.

Ingredients

11/2pounds(675g)cabbage

1/2pound(225g)anycombinationbeet,carrot,radish,turnip,zucchini,cucumber,brusselssprouts,greenbeans,bellpeppers,hotpeppers,ormorecabbage

2tablespoons(20g)peeledanddicedonion,garlic,shallot,orleek

3teaspoonstotalofanyofthefollowing,combinedoralone:cuminseeds,carawayseeds,allspice,currypowder,juniperberries,rubbedsage,freshthyme,redpepperflakes,powderedginger,lemonzest,paprika,orcayenne

Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.

Cuttheothervegetablesinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)slices.Placethevegetablesintoalargebowl.Addtheonioncomponentandsalt.Tossvigorouslytoevenlydistributethesalt.Addtheherbsandspicesanddistributethemwhilemassagingandtossingthecabbagewithyourhands.

Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashionuntilitcomesto1to11/2inches(2.5to4cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.

Yield:1quart(900g)

SAUERKRAUTSLAWMyfriendSarahhasalwaysbeenavant-gardeinherfoodhabits.LongbeforeanyoneelseIknew,sheauditionedveganandmacrobioticdietsandcookedwithlocallygrownproductsovergrocerystorefare.Asacollegesophomore,shewasanexpertatexploringtheflavorsofotherculturesandmakingthemAmerican-teenagercompatible.AlthoughAsian-styleslawsarecommonnow,whenSarahfirstmadeoneforme,Iwasextraordinarilyexcitedbythenew-to-meflavorcombinations.Thiskraut-basedslawisanodetotherawcabbageversionsheusedtomakeinthekitchenofoursharedcollegehome.

Ingredients2cups(500g)KrautytheVampireSlayer(page81)

2carrots,trimmedandjulienned

1/2redoryellowbellpepper,chopped

1/4cup(40g)thinlyslicedredonion

2cups(150g)snappeas,trimmedandcutlengthwiseintothinstrips

2inches(5cm)ofpeeledfinelymincedginger

1packedtablespoon(6g)freshmint,slicedintoribbons

2packedtablespoons(2g)choppedfreshcilantro

1tablespoon(15ml)toastedsesameoil

2teaspoons(5.5g)sesameseeds(optional)

Placethekraut,carrots,bellpepper,onion,snappeas,andgingerinabowl.Tosstocombine.Addtheherbsandsesameoilandtosstocoat.Sprinklethesesameseedsontopandserve.Thisstoresverywellinthefridge,buttheflavorshavethebestbalancewhenservedfresh.

Yield:6servings

HEAT-LOVER’SKRAUTYoucanuseanyhotpeppersyouliketomakethisparticularsauerkraut.IlikeHungarianwax,serrano,andjalapeño.Thiscombinationofgreenandyellowpeppersmakesaprettykraut,butbetteryet,thefermentationprocesstamestheheatofthepeppersjustatouchsoyougetatonofthecharacterineverysmokin’bite.

Ingredients

4or5hotpeppers(1/2pound,or225g)

Removeanddiscardthecrownsfromthepeppers.Sliceitintothinrounds.Addthepepperstothecabbagebowlandtosswithyourhandstodistribute.Hotpepperscanactuallybehotonthehands,sowearsomedisposablelatexorbrand-newdishwashingglovestoavoidapainfulburningsensation.

Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.

Yield:1quart(900g)

DILLYROOTKRAUTAsanAmericanofPolishandUkrainiandescent,Iamlegallyrequiredtocravedillandrootvegetables.Eatingthiskrautislikecominghome.Ifyou’rewillingtokillthegoodbugs,addthistoborschtforaspecialtreat.

Ingredients1smallunwaxedrutabaga(7ounces,or200g),coarselychopped

1mediumbeet(7ounces,or200g),coarselychopped

1/2headredcabbage(18ounces,or500g)

1/3cup(21g)choppedfreshdill

Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placethevegetablesinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.

Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabit,tomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Addthedillandtosstodistributeevenly.

Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weighttheveggiesdownandcoveryourjar.

Redcabbagejuiceisabeautiful,vibrantpurplethatwillstainjustaboutanything,soplaceyourjaronasmallplateorinasmallplasticbagduring

anything,soplaceyourjaronasmallplateorinasmallplasticbagduringfermentation.Allowthecabbagetofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.

Yield:1quart(900g)

⊲MEDITERRANEANKRAUTMoveover,Greeksalad.Yourprobioticcousinisheretoknockyouoffyourlunchpedestal.Thiskrautishealthyandfillingandmakesafantasticmealallonitsown.Rollitupinacollardgreenforagluten-freewrapordigintoitwithoven-crispedpitachips.Thevegetablesarelesssaltedherebecauseseveraloftheingredients(theolives,capers,andcheese)alreadycontainsalt.

Ingredients

1/2redbellpepper

1/4cup(43g)pittedkalamataorotherGreekolives

1cloveofgarlic,peeled

2tablespoons(17g)capers

Four1/8-inch(3mm)slicesofeggplant,thesamediameterasthejar

2ounces(55g)ofbrinedfetacheese(Donotusepre-crumbled.)

Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbageandreserveone.Cutoutanddiscardthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placeinalargebowl.

Removethestem,seeds,andpithfromthebellpepperandsliceitinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)squares.Placeinthebowlwiththecabbage.Addthesaltandtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.

Choptheolivesandcutthegarlicintothinslices.Addtheolives,garlic,andcaperstothecabbagebowlandtosswell.Crumblethefetaintothemixandtosslightlytodistribute.

Packroughly1cup(225g)ofthecabbagemixtureintothebottomofaclean

Packroughly1cup(225g)ofthecabbagemixtureintothebottomofacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Lay1sliceofeggplantflatontopofit.Addanothercup(225g)ofcabbage,packingtightly,andanothereggplantslice.Repeatuntilthejarisfulltoabout1inch(2.5cm)fromthetop,endingwithaneggplantslice.

Pourabitoftheremainingbrinefromthebowloverthetopoftheeggplantslice,stillensuringatleast3/4-inch(2cm)ofheadspace.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weighttheveggiesdownandcoveryourjar.

Yield:1quart(900g)

Ifyoudon’twanttosliceintoaneggplantforjustfourslices,youcanabsolutelyomitit.Itdoesmakeforafun,visualaddition,however.

NEWWORLDRYEKRAUTAlocalfermentationexpertandbaker,AlexBois,makessomeastoundingbreadsforafantasticPhiladelphiarestaurantcalledHighStreetonMarket.Oneofmyfavoriteloavesisadeceptivelysimplesandwichrye.Thissauerkrautisanodetothatbread.WhenI’mfeelingextraadorationforthehumblecarawayseed,IwilltoastupasliceofBois’sNewWorldRyebread,butterit,andtopitwithaheapingpileofthiskrautforbreakfast.

2tablespoons(13g)carawayseeds

Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbageuntilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Addthecarawayseedsandtosstodistributeevenly.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,press

surethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownontheweighttoraisethebrinelevel.

Yield:1quart(900g)

NUTSFORKRAUTSomepeoplemaythinkI’mnutsforputtingnutsinkraut,butit’sanextremelyhealthfulchoice.Nutsandseedscontainphytates,whichbindtonutrientsandpreventthemfrombeingabsorbedbyourbodies.Happily,fermentationeliminatesphyticacid,transformingnutsandseedsintohealthfoods,ratherthannutrientblockers.Thenutssoftenduringfermentation,whiletheseedstendtostaycrunchy.Bothtakeonalittlesourflavor,whichishalfthefun!Feelfreetosubstitutewhatevernutsandseedsyouhave.

Ingredients1headcabbage(about2pounds,or900g)

1/4cup(34g)unsalted,rawmacadamianuts,coarselychopped

1/4cup(31g)unsalted,rawpistachios,coarselychopped

1/4cup(35g)unsalted,rawcashews,coarselychopped

1/4cup(57g)shelled,raw,unsaltedpumpkinseeds

Massageandsqueezethecabbageuntilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Pourallthenutsandthepumpkinseedsintothebowlandtosstodistributeevenly.

Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jarusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to4weeks,checkingatleastonceaweektomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.

Yield:1quart(900g)

SAUERKRAUTSATAYIgenuinelycannotstopeatingcoldsesamenoodleswhenIhavetheminthehouse,soIdevelopedthisrecipeasabetter-for-mealternative.Theflavorsinthiskrautarejustaboutaperfectmatchforcoldsesamenoodlesat5to7daysoffermentation,butitstilltastesgreatafterafullmonthoffermentation.

1teaspoon(1g)redpepperflakes

2tablespoons(30ml)soysauce

1/2cup(130g)creamypeanutbutter

1tablespoon(15ml)toastedsesameoil

1teaspoon(2g)corianderseeds

1redbellpepper,seededandchopped

Freshcilantro,forserving(optional)

Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.

Gratethecabbageusingaboxgraterorthegratingbladeonyourfoodprocessor.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.

Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbageuntilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Addtheredpepperflakes,soysauce,peanutbutter,oil,coriander,andbellpepperandtosstodistribute.

Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.Packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilitcomesto11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.

Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Thecabbageshelfisessentialinthisrecipe.Ifthepeanutbutterisexposedtoairduringfermentationitsoilscanoxidizeandturnrancid.Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1to11/2inches(2.5to4cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to10days.Ifyoufermentforlongerthanthat,besuretocheckthatthebrinelevelisabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.

Onceyou‘rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Servesprinkledwithcilantro.

Yield:1quart(900g)

GINGERBEETKRAUTSometimessimplicitymakesfortheultimatecrowd-pleaser.Inthiscase,justacoupleofingredientsmakeanunforgettablesauerkrautthatcomplementsjustaboutanythingyoucanputonaplate.Tryitinpastaortossedsaladsforaburstofflavorandcolor.

Ingredients

2-inch(5cm)pieceofginger,unpeeled

1smallbeet(1/2pound,or225g)

Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Gratethecabbageandgingerusingaboxgraterorthegratingbladeonyourfoodprocessor.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyuntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.Trimandquarterthebeetsandcutthequartersinto1/4-inch(5mm)thickslices.Addthebeetstothecabbage.

Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbageuntilthereisavisiblepuddleinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.

Packthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jar.First,packitalongthebottomusingthetopofyourfistoryourfingers.Continuepackinginthisfashion,pressingalongthesidesandbottom,untilthecabbagecomesto2inches(5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.

Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejar.Leaveatleast1inch(2.5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weighttheveggiesdownandcoveryourjar.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to4weeks,checkingonceaweektomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,

makesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.

Onceyou‘rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

ExtraCabbageLiquid?Sowhatdoyoudowiththatsaltycabbagewaterthataccruesinyourbowlduringthemassageperiod?Mostpeoplejustdiscardit,butitissaltyandvegetal,soitmakesagreatadditiontosoups,stocks,andevenbread-bakingliquid.Anotheroptionistostoreitinalabeledjarinyourfridge.Ifyourbrinelevelevaporates,youcanjustpouritoveryourcabbageshelfandknowthatit’stheperfectsalinityforyourkraut.

⊲SAUERKRAUTPICKLEDEGGSIdon’tknowifthismakesmeaweirdo,butIgoCRAZYforpickledeggs.Thistechniquecanalsobedoneinbrinedferments,kimchiliquid,andanyothervegetablefermentyouletgolongenoughforaciditytogetappropriatelylow.Thetrulyawesomethingaboutfermentedpickledeggsisn’ttheirutterlysuperiorflavor—it’sthefungamesyoucanplaywithcolor!Usearedkrauttoendupwithpurpleeggs,radishpicklebrineforpastelpink,orfinishedbeetkvassforabeetredegg.

Ingredients3cups(675g)finishedsauerkraut,suchasGingerBeetKraut(page91)

4hard-boiledeggs,cooledandpeeled

Putaboutaninch(2.5cm)ofsauerkrautthathasfermentedforaminimumof2weeksintoaquart(1L)jar.Packextraaroundthesidestocreatealittlecraterinthejar.Placeaneggintothecraterandgentlypackmoresauerkrautontopandfitanothereggin.Coverthateggwithmoresauerkrautandpackthewholething,verygently,down.Repeatwiththeremaining2eggs,endingwithatleastathinlayerofsauerkrautontop.

Placethejarinthefridgeandallowtheeggstocultureandcolorfor5daysto2weeks.Youmayeatthekrautandeggsassoonastheeggstastepickledenoughforyou.

Yield:4eggsplus3cups(675g)sauerkraut

Youcanalsoputpeeled,hard-boiledeggsintofinishedpicklebrines.Theresultingpickledeggsarerainbow-coloredanddelicious.Itisokaytoputunpeeledeggs,oreggswithintentionallycrackedshells,intothemix.Thelacticacidwilleatawayattheshellsandprovideyouwithsomeveryinterestingpatternsandcolors.Ifyoudouseunpeeledeggs,don’teatthesauerkrautasthealkalineintheshellscanresultinahigherpH.

⊲MIREPOIXKRAUTThecombinationofcelery,onions,andcarrotsissuchaclassicinFrenchcookingthatitisoftenreferredtoasthe“HolyTrinity.”Inthiskraut,theclassicflavorsofmirepoixandbouquetgarniarecombinedtomakeajarthatwouldservejustaswellasacenterpieceforafamilymealasitwouldasasidedish.ServealongsideyourfavoritechickendishesforalittleFrenchflair.

Ingredients

2carrots

1/2smallonion,peeled

11/2celerystalks

1teaspoon(1.5g)driedthymeleaves

1teaspoon(1g)driedsageleaves

4whole,unblemishedbayleaves

Letthesaltandcabbagesitwhileyoudicethecarrots,onion,andcelery.Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbageuntilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Addthedicedvegetables,thyme,andsagetothecabbagemixtureandtosstodistribute.

Tightlypackasmallamountofthecabbagemixtureintothebottomofaquart(1L)jar.Gentlyslidethestemendof1bayleafdownalongthesideofthejar,securingpartofitinthecabbagemixturesothatitispressedflatagainstthesideofthejar.Packmorecabbageintothejar,gentlysothatthebayleafispressed

againsttheglassbutnotpusheddownandbroken.Onanothersideofthejar,placeanotherbayleafandsecureagainsttheglassbypressingmorecabbagemixtureintothejar.Repeatuntilthereis1bayleafvisibleoneachsideofthejarandallofthecabbagemixtureispressedin,toabout11/2to2inches(4to5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.

Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave3/4to1inch(2to2.5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weighttheveggiesdownandcoveryourjar.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor4to6weeks,checkingatleastonceaweektomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

SUPERSOURCITRUSKRAUTCitruszestisoneofthemostusefulandversatileseasoningsinanycook’sarsenal.Itcangosweetoritcangosavory.Inthissimplekraut,thecombinationofthreecitruszestsmakesforapunchy,party-worthykraut.Whenusingcitruspeelorzestinanyferment,leavethepithouttoavoidunpleasantbitterness.

4teaspoons(22g)salt

Zestof1lemon

Zestof1lime

Zestof1/2ofanorange

Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbageuntilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.Addthezestsandtossforaminutetoevenlydistribute.

Placeyourjaronasmallplateorbowlandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethe

for3to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrinelevelisstillabovethetopofthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownonyourweighttogetthebrinetorisebackabove.Onceyou’rehappywiththeacidity,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

PRESERVEDLEMONGINGERKRAUTOneofthebestpartsaboutthiskrautisthatwhenit’sdone,youhavekrautandpreservedlemonslices.Eattheminyourkrautorchopthemup,peelandall,andthrowtheminjustaboutanythingfromsaladstograindishesforanamazingflavorboost.Imakethiskrautforfermentationeventsandit’salwaysacrowd-pleaser.

2tablespoons(36g)koshersalt

1tablespoon(11g)mustardseed

4inches(10cm)offreshginger,unpeeled

4organic,thin-skinned,unwaxedlemons

Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecoreandrinsethecabbage.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestrips.Placeinalargebowl,addthesalt,andtossthoroughlyforabout30secondsoruntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.Mixinthemustardseedandsetaside.

Gratethegingerandaddtothecabbagebowl.Removetheendsfromyourlemonsandthenslicethemverythinly.

Massagethecabbagemixturewelluntilthereisapuddleinthebottomofthebowlandthecabbagestaystogetherinaclumpwhensqueezed.

Placealargehandfulofcabbageintoaquart(1L)jarandpackitintightly.Layerslicesfrom1lemonevenlyoverthecabbageinthejar.Packmorecabbagemixtureontopofthelemonslicesandrepeattheselayersuntiltheingredientsareallinthejar,endingwithacabbagelayerpacked2inches(5cm)belowtherimofthejar.

Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourthecabbageliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leave1inch(2.5

cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthecabbagedownandcoveryourjar.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor4to8weeks,checkingweeklytomakesurethatthebrineisstillcoveringthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownontheweighttoraisethebrinelevel.

Yield:1quart(900g)

⊲CARROTCAKEKRAUTAfewyearsago,Istartedreferringtosomeofmykrautsas“dessertkrauts.”Somefindthatfunnyuntil,thatis,theydevourthekrautinquestion.Theconceptofdessertkrautmaynotbefullyintuitive,butsomehow,itworks.Abandonsugarcravings,allyewhomakethiskraut.

Ingredients

2carrots

1inch(2.5cm)pieceofginger,unpeeledandgrated

1teaspoon(2.5g)groundcinnamon

1/2teaspoon(1g)groundnutmeg

1/2cup(55g)pecans,coarselychopped

1/4cup(35g)unsweetenedraisins

Removeanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleavesfromthecabbage,reservingone.Cutoutthecore.Shredthecabbageinto1/4-inch(0.5cm)widestripsandgratethecarrots.Placebothinalargebowl,addsalt,andtossandsqueezeuntilthecabbagehasasheenofmoistureonit.

Gentlymassageandsqueezethecabbage,orletitsitforabit,tomaketheworkeasier,untilthereisavisiblepuddleofwaterinthebottomofthebowl.

Addtheginger,cinnamon,nutmeg,pecans,andraisinsandcontinuetomassage,mixingtheminasyougo,untilthecabbagepiecesstayinaclumpwhensqueezed.

Pressthemixtureintoacleanquart(1L)jarusingthetopofyourfistandyourfingerstopackitalongthesidesandbottom.Stoppackingwhenthejarisfullto2inches(5cm)belowtherim.Ifyouneedmorespace,pressdownonthecabbageinthejarandtiltthejartopourthecabbageliquidbackintothebowl.

Usethereservedcabbageleaftocreatea“cabbageshelf”(seepage75).Pourtheliquidfromthebowlintothejartocoverthecabbage.Leaveatleast1inch(2.5

cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weighttheveggiesdownandcoveryourjar.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor2to4weeks.Checkweeklytomakesurethatthebrineisstillcoveringthecabbage.Ifitisn’t,pressdownontheweighttoraisethebrinelevel.

Yield:1quart(900g)

Kimchi

Kimchiisoneoftheworld’sbest-knownfermentedfoodsandisthemostculturallyimportantfoodofKorea,evenboastingitsownmuseuminSeoul.

Thereisnolimittowhereyoucanfindkimchipoppingupintraditionalandnontraditionalkitchensalike;inKorea—and,increasingly,abroad—kimchiiscommonlyeatenateverymeal.Havekimchiwitheggsjustonemorningforbreakfastandthere’sagoodchanceyou’llbehooked.

WhileweintheWesttendtothinkofkimchiasspicy,salty,delightfullypungentnapacabbage,kimchiisactuallymanythings.Therearewellover100“official”versionsofkimchi,andthatnumberdoesn’tincludehomemadeversionsthatcatertothetastepreferencesofspecificfamilies.Inthischapter,we’llexplorebothtraditionalanddecidedlynontraditionalstyles.Iknowfrommyreadersthatfamiliesoftenhavetheirpreferredversion,madespecialbythatsecretingredientnooneelseuses.Perhapsthroughexperimentation,you’llmakeyourfamilyakimchiclassictobehandeddownthroughthegenerations.

EverydayBaechuKimchi

Kimchi-BraisedCauliflowerandApples

Thai-chi

HalfHeadKimchi

AmericanSeoulKimchi

ShisoLeafKimchi

VeryVegetableVeganKimchi

PumpkinSpiceKimchi

MacandKimcheese

CucumberKimchi

RadishKimchi

NabakKimchi

Pesto-chi

Salsa-chi

GreenBeanKimchi

KimchiConsiderationsFollowingareafewelementsofkimchiforyoutoconsiderbeforegettingyourfermentsrolling.

ChoppingThereareformsofkimchithatarenamedspecificallyforthewaythevegetablesusedinitarechopped(NabakKimchi,page121).Thesizeofthepieceswillalsoimpactfermentationtime;largerpieceswilltakelongertoreachthesameacidityassmallerones.

SaltingThedecisiontosaltorbrineisapersonalone.Salting(applyingalargeamountdirectlytoyourcabbage)takeslesstimebutusesmuchmoresalt.Thecabbageisrinsedaftersaltingtoremoveexcesssalt,sowhatgoesintoyourfinalproductdoesn’ttastealotsaltierthanabrinedbatch.Inbrining(creatingabrineofwaterandsaltandthensubmergingyourcabbage

Inbrining(creatingabrineofwaterandsaltandthensubmergingyourcabbageanddaikoninit),you’lluseamuchsmallerquantityofsalt,butyou’llneedtoletitsitforaminimumof12hoursbeforeyoustartactuallycomposingyourkimchi.Thechoiceisyours.Thefinalresultisverysimilar.

TimingHowlongyoufermentyourkimchidependsonseveralfactors:thevegetablesused,thetimeofyear,temperature,and,mostimportantly,tastepreferences.Iadoretheflavorsoflightlyfermentedandevenunfermentedkimchi,andIoftenfermentitforonly3to7days.Butafterweeksormonthsoffermentation,itwillbesomethingtotallydifferent.Somefriendswon’tevenconsidereatingituntilitissoftandfizzy,whichcantakemonthsoffermentationdependingonthetemperatureandsugarandsaltlevels.Ifyou’remakingitforlongaging,useabitmoresaltthanisfoundintheserecipes.

KimchiGlovesManyoftheingredientsthatmakekimchitastesoamazingcanirritateyourskin(hotpepperandginger)ormakeyourhandssmellabittoodelicious(fishsauce,garlic,oronion).ElegantKoreanwomenhavespecialpinkrubberglovesfortheexpresspurposeofmixingkimchi.IfyouhaveaKoreanmarketinyourarea,youwillbeabletofindthese;otherwise,feelfreetousedisposablelatexglovesorrubberdishwashinggloves,reservedforfermenting,toprotectyourhandsandkeepthemfromsmellinglikegarlicandfishsauceforaweek!

CommonKimchiIngredients•Napacabbage.Napacabbageiswhite,green,andcapsule-shapedandhasawiderandsofterribthanthosefromthehard,roundheadsofgreencabbagemorecommonlyfoundinAmericangrocerystores.Lookforaheadthatisheavyforitssize.Lighterlargeheads,especiallyoutofseason,sometimeslookniceontheoutsidebuthavebrown,wiltingleavesontheinside.

•Daikon.DaikonisactuallytheJapanesenameforthelong,white,relativelymildradishthatisfoundinsomanykindsofkimchi.TheverysimilarKoreanversion,mu,isrounderandshorterandhasagreenertop,butdaikonisusuallyeasiertofindinAmericanmarkets.

•Koreanredpepperpowder(Gochugaru).Youcanfindgochugaru(Koreanredpepperpowder)ineitheracoarseorafinegrind.Thecoarseversionwasusedintheserecipes.Inspiteofkimchi’sreputationasaveryspicyfood,gochugaruisn’tallthathot.Ifyouwanttoampuptheheat,addredpepperflakesorevenfreshhotpeppersintheblendingstage.Beawarethataddingfreshpepperswillalterthecolorofyourredkimchi,oftenresultinginanorangishhueafterafewdaysoffermentation.

•Fishsauce.Thefishsauceyouincludeinyourkimchiwillprovideanenormousamountofumamiflavorand,frankly,anenormousamountofaromaduringfermentation.Chooseafishsaucethathasonlytwoingredients:anchoviesandsalt.Vegansandvegetariansshouldfeelfreetoomitfishsauceandsaltedshrimpfromallrecipes.

•Saltedshrimp(saewoojuht).Theselittleguys,foundatjustaboutanyAsiangrocerystore,comeinrefrigeratedjars,packedinliquid.Theyshouldbedrainedbeforeusing.

•Koreanchives.Koreanchiveslooklikelarge,flatbladesofgrassandhaveamildonionflavor.Theirlargercousins,Chinesechives,areavailableatanyAsianmarketandtheymakeagreatsubstitutefortheKoreanversion.Ifyoucan’tfindeither,scallionsareasuitablereplacement.

•Riceflour.Riceflourcanbefoundatmostmarkets.Lookforfinelygroundriceflour.Ifyouhavetroublefindingit,youcanomititentirelyorsubstitutepuréedfruit,all-purposeflour,oranotherstarchyflour(nutandcoconutfloursarenotrecommended).

•Ginger.Freshgingerisanessentialelementtotheflavorofkimchi.Itisususallyblendedin,sonolaboriouspeelingofitspaperyskinisnecessary.

•Sugar.Aswithanyiconicfood,tastepreferencesforkimchivarywildly.Ifyou’rethetypewholikesasoftandfizzykimchi,add1to2teaspoons(4to8g)ofsugarperquart(1L)ofkimchibeforefermentationandanother1teaspoon(4g)tothejarjustbeforerefrigeration.Idon’tusesugarinmyhomekimchi,sotheserecipesdonotcallforaddedsugar,butknowthatitisacommonlyusedingredient.

⊲EVERYDAYBAECHUKIMCHIBaechuistheKoreanwordforoneofthemostcommonkimchiingredients,napacabbage.BaechukimchiisthekimchithatwemostoftenseeinKoreanrestaurantsintheUnitedStates.It’sred.It’sspicy.It’sseductive.ThisisthekimchiImakemostfrequently,ofteninlargebatchestoavoidtheoutragethatoccurswhenwerunout.Thereisnoendtotheusesforthiskimchi.WeuseitinMacandKimcheese(page116)andasaningredientinjustabouteveryomeletorbatchofscrambledeggsImake.IfI’mbeingtotallyhonest,though,wemostcommonlyeatthiskimchistraightfromthejar.

IngredientsOne2-pound(900g)headnapacabbage

83/4cups(2L)filteredwater,divided11/2tablespoons(15g)riceflour

1/2pound(225g)daikon

1inch(2.5cm)ofginger

1/2smallonion,peeled

1tablespoon(4g)redpepperflakes

1/2cup(60g)coarsegrindgochugaru

1tablespoon(15ml)fishsauce

1tablespoon(8g)drained,saltedshrimp

5stemsofChinesechives,8to9stemsKoreanchives,or5scallions

Soakthenapacabbageorrinsethoroughlyincoolwatertoremoveanydirtordebristrappedwithinitsleaves.Rinsethecabbageheadandpatdry.Halvethecabbageandremovethecore.Sliceeachhalfintoquarters.Youwillnowhave8longstripsofnapacabbage.Ifthestripsarewiderthan2inches(5cm),halvethemagainlengthwise.Cuthorizontallyacrosseachstriptocreate1-to2-inch(2.5to5cm)chunks.Thechunkswillseparateintoindividualpiecesasthey’rechopped.Placeallthecabbagepiecesintoalargebowl.

Pourthesaltinto8cups(1.9L)ofthewaterandstirtodissolve.Pourthe

Pourthesaltinto8cups(1.9L)ofthewaterandstirtodissolve.Pourthemixtureoverthecabbageinthebowl.Useaplateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicitemtokeepthevegetablessubmergedunderthebrine.Allowtosoakfor12to24hours.

Aftersoaking,thoroughlydrainthecabbageandpatdry.

Inyoursmallestsaucepan,bringtheremaining3/4cup(175ml)waterandthericeflourtoaboilovermedium-highheat,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about2minutes.Transferthepastetoacleanbowlandrefrigeratetochillandthickenfurther.

Whilethericepasteiscooling,removethecrownandgreensfromthedaikonandreserveforanotheruse.Cutthedaikoninto1/4-to1/2-inch(5mmto1.5cm)sticksandtossthedaikonandcabbagetogetherinalargebowl.

Coarselychoptheunpeeledginger,onion,andgarlicandplaceinthebowlofafoodprocessoralongwiththeredpepperflakes,gochugaru,fishsauce,shrimp,andcooledricepaste.Blenduntilitbecomesasmoothpaste,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlasnecessary.Chopthechivesinto2-inch(5cm)pieces.Addtothebowlwiththecabbageanddaikon.

Putonyourkimchigloves,ifdesired.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetables.Oncetheingredientsarewellmixed,removetheglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanquart(1L)jar.

Packthemixtureinthebowltightlyintothejar,leavinganinch(2.5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Wipetherimofthejarwithaclean,dampclothtoremoveanypastethatmayhaveclungthere.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthekimchidownandcoveryourjar.Youmayalsochoosenottouseaweightforthisrecipe,sincekimchiisnotpronetosurfaceissues.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to7days.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

KIMCHI-BRAISEDCAULIFLOWERANDAPPLESTothelikelydismayofmyovercrowdedrefrigerator,Ihaveaveryhardtimedumpingtheliquidsleftoverfrommyvegetableferments.Kimchiliquid,inparticular,packsatonofflavor,andIfindithardtotoss.Doesthatmakemeahoarder?Nah.Thebrinesandjuicesofmyfermentedvegetablesneverhangaroundlong.Weeatthemup!Togetliquidfromkimchi,eitherstrainthekimchithroughmeshstrainersorwaituntilyou’veeatenthevegetablesandreservewhat’sleft.

Ingredients2tablespoons(30ml)oliveoil

1onion,sliced

1smallheadofcauliflower,cutintosmallflorets

2smallapples,coredandcoarselychopped

1cup(235ml)kimchiliquid

Heattheoilinaheavy-bottomedsaucepanorDutchorFrenchovenandaddtheonion.Cookovermediumheatuntilsoftbutnotbrowned,about5minutes.

Addthecauliflowerandapplesandstirtocoatintheoil.Continuecooking,stirringoccasionally,untilbothhavesoftened,about10minutes.Addthekimchiliquidandlowertheheat.Coverandallowtosimmerfor15to20minutesoruntilallofthekimchiliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Servehot.

Yield:6cups(1.4kg)

ScalingUptheRicePasteManykimchirecipescallforricepaste.Ifyou’remakingalargerbatchthancalledforhereorifyouareplanningonmakingseveralrecipeswithinafewdays,makingalargerbatchofthepasteandstoringitinthefridgemakessense.Use2tablespoons(20g)ofriceflourpercup(235ml)ofwaterandknowthatlargerbatchestakelongertoboilandthicken.Largerbatcheswill

alsoexperiencelessevaporation,soplantouseanywherefrom1/4to1/2cup(60to120g)finishedricepasteinthesekimchirecipes.

Ifbriningyourvegetables,itmakessensetomakethericepastewhenyoustartthebrining.Juststoreitinthefridgeuntilyou’rereadytouseit.(Youcanstorethefinishedpasteinthefridgeforupto3daysbeforeitstartstobreakdown.)

THAI-CHIThisplayfulandspicykimchiincorporatessomeofmyfavoriteingredientsfromtheThaitake-outmenu.Kaffirlimeleavesmakeagreatadditiontosoupsandstocksandtheyflavorbeveragesbeautifully,buttheycanbeomittedorimperfectlyreplacedbyateaspoon(2g)offreshlimezest.

Ingredients

11/2pounds(680g)napacabbage

1mediumdaikon(8ounces,or225g)

9cups(2.1L)filteredwater,divided

2tablespoons(20g)riceflour

Two4-inch(10cm)piecesoffreshlemongrasscore

4inches(10cm)ofginger

4or5Thai(bird’s-eye)chilesorhabaneros

1/2smallonion

2tablespoons(30ml)fishsauce

5scallions

6freshorfrozenkaffirlimeleaves

Soakthenapacabbagethoroughlytoremoveanydebrisanddirt.Halveitandremovethecore.Sliceeachhalfintoquarters.Youwillnowhave8longstripsofnapacabbage.Cuthorizontallyacrosseachstriptocreate1-to2-inch(2.5to5cm)chunks.Thechunkswillseparateintopiecesasthey’rechopped.Placeallthecabbagepiecesintoaverylargebowl.

Removethecrownandgreensfromthedaikonandreserveforanotheruse.Cutitinto1/4-inch(5mm)wide,2-inch(5cm)longstripsandaddtothebowlwiththecabbage.

Pourthesaltinto8cups(1.9L)ofthewaterandstirtodissolve.Pourthemixtureoverthecabbageanddaikoninthebowl.Useaplatetokeepthevegetablessubmergedunderthebrine.Allowtosoakfor12to24hours.

Aftersoaking,bringtheremaining1cup(235ml)waterandthericeflourtoaboilinyoursmallestsaucepan,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about2minutes.Transferthepastetoacleanbowlandrefrigeratetochillandthickenfurther.

Cutthelemongrassintothinroundsandthescallionsinto2-inch(5cm)pieces.

Putthecooledflourmixture,ginger,garlic,chiles,onion,fishsauce,andredpepperflakesintoafoodprocessorandblenduntilmostlysmooth.Tossthescallions,lemongrass,limeleaves,andchile/onionmixturewithvegetablesuntiltheyarewellcoatedandthescallions,lemongrassandlimeleavesaredistributedthroughoutthemixture.Packverytightlyintoaquart(1L)jarandcoverlooselywithalid.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefrom1to3weeks.Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavor,securethejarlidandstoreinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

HALFHEADKIMCHINotonlyisthiskimchifuntomake,butit’salsotheperfectcompanykimchi.Itservesasacenterpieceuntildinnertime(seephotoonpage100),whenIceremoniouslycarveitlikeaThanksgivingturkey.Eachguestgetsa2-to3-inch(5to7.5cm)thickcross-sectiontodevour.Ifwe’renotexpectingcompany,Ioftenpeelleavesoffonebyoneandusethemasincrediblyflavorful(andmessy)wrapsforwhateverI’mhavingforlunch.

Ingredients1/2largeheadofnapacabbage(2pounds,or900g)1/2cup(145g)koshersalt

1/2pound(225g)daikon

1/2bunchofKoreanchives

3inches(7.5cm)ofginger,unpeeled

1/4smallonion

1tablespoon(15ml)fishsauce

3/4cup(90g)gochugaru

Soakthenapacabbageorrinsethoroughlyincoolwatertoremoveanydirtordebristrappedwithinitsleavesandhalveitlengthwise.Eithermaketwobatchesorusetheotherhalfofthecabbageforanotherpurpose.

Addthesaltto8cups(1.9L)ofthewaterandstirtodissolve.Placethecabbageinalargebowlandpourthesaltwateroverit.Useaplateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicitemtokeepitsubmergedunderthebrine.Allowtosoakfor24hours.

Afterbrining,thoroughlydrainandrinseallsidesofthecabbageincoolwater,beingcarefultosupporttheheadsothatitdoesnotbreakapart.

Inasmallsaucepan,bringtheflourandremaining1cup(235ml)watertoaboilovermedium-highheat,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumand

overmedium-highheat,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about4minutes.Transferthepastetoacleanbowlandrefrigeratetochillandthickenfurther.

Whilethericepasteiscooling,removethecrownandgreensfromthedaikonandreserveforanotheruse.Cutthedaikonintosmallmatchstickswithamaximumwidthof1/4inch(5mm).Themandolinecomesinhandyforthistask.Placeinabowl.

Chopthechivesinto2-inch(5cm)piecesandaddthemtothebowlwiththedaikon.

Coarselychoptheunpeeledginger,onion,andgarlicandplaceintothebowlofafoodprocessoralongwiththefishsauce,gochugaru,andcooledflourmixture.Blendintoasmoothpaste,scrapingdownthesidesasnecessary.

Putonyourkimchigloves.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetables.

Holdthehalfcabbageinyournondominanthandorplaceitonacleanplate,cut-sideup.Workingfromthesmallest,centerleavesoutward,rubhandfulsofricepastemixtureinbetweeneachleaf.Begentleandcarefulnottopulltheleavesout.Eachleafshouldbefullycoatedinsideandoutwiththemix.Onceyou’verubbedthemixturebetweeneachleaf,rubmostoftheremainingpasteoveralltheoutersurfacesofthecabbage.

Carefullyplacethecabbageintoyourfermentingcontainer.Keepasmanyvegetablesaspossibleinside.Rubanyremainingpasteovertheexposedsurfaceofthecabbage.Placealidonthecontainerandwipethesidesandlidwithaclean,wetcloth.

Placethecontaineronaplateandfermentfor7to10daysatroomtemperature.Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavor,moveittotherefrigeratoruntilanhourbeforeserving.Toserve,carefullyremovethecabbagefromthecontainer,againbeingcarefulnottolosetoomuchofthemixturepackedbetweentheleaves,andplacecut-sidedownonasmallservingplatter.

Yield:5to6servings

Youwillneedtofindatight-fittingcontainerinwhichtofermentthiskimchi.Ifindthataglassloafpanwithatight-fittinglidworkswellforaheadthissize.Tryvarioussizestoseewhatfitsbestforyou.

AMERICANSEOULKIMCHIThiskimchicreationwasmadewithingredientsthatareeasilyfoundinAmericangrocerystores.Theflavorandtexturearemilesawayfromthetraditionalbaechukimchi(page104),butitsureisanicespicyalternativeforthosewithoutaccesstospecialtyKoreaningredients.Thisisproofthatalthoughusingtheingredientsyouhaveaccesstomightnotgiveyou“therealthing,”itcanoftenresultinsomethingspecial.

Ingredients1head(2pounds,or900g)redcabbage

21/2tablespoons(25g)all-purposeflour4or5cherrybellorFrenchbreakfastradishes(4ounces,or115g),greensandrootsremoved5scallions

1redbellpepper(7ounces,or200g)

2small,freshredhotpeppers

1smallonion,peeled

11/2teaspoons(2g)redpepperflakes11/2teaspoons(3g)cayennepepper

1teaspoon(2g)groundginger

1teaspoon(5ml)soysauce

Cutthecabbageinhalf,cutoutthecore,andthencuteachhalfintoquarters.Cuteachresultingwedgecrosswiseinto4squarishpieces.Cutlonger,rectangularpiecesinhalftomakecubes.

Placethecabbageinalargebowl.Dissolvethesaltin8cups(1.9L)ofthefilteredwaterandpourthemixtureoverthecabbage.Keepthecabbagesubmergedinthebrinebyplacingaweight,suchasasmallplate,ontopandcoverthewholethingwithakitchentowelorplasticwrap.Letsoakfor12to24hours.

Placetheflourandremaining1cup(235ml)waterinasmallsaucepanandturntheheattohigh.Stirconstantlyuntilboilingandthenreducetheheattomediumandcontinuestirringuntilthepastehasthickened,about3to4minutes.Transfer

andcontinuestirringuntilthepastehasthickened,about3to4minutes.Transfertoasmallbowlandstickitinthefridgetocoolcompletelybeforeusing.Themixturewillthickenfurtherwhilecooling,anditmaybecomeatadgummy.

Whilethericepasteiscooling,strainthecabbage.Slicetheradishesinto3or4slicesandthencuteachsliceinto3or4smallstrips.Trimthescallionsandcuttheminto1-to2-inch(2.5to5cm)pieces.Quarterthebellpepperandremovethestem,seeds,andsoftinnerpith.Removethecrownsandstemsfromthehotpeppers.

Placethecooledflourpaste,bellpepper,freshhotpeppers,garlic,onion,redpepperflakes,cayenne,groundginger,andsoysauceintothebowlofyourfoodprocessor.Blenduntilarelativelysmoothpasteforms,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlasnecessary.

Placethecabbage,radishes,andscallionsinalargebowl.Putonyourkimchigloves.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetables.

Packtightlyintotwo1-quart(1L)jarsorone1/2-gallon(2L)jar.Wipetherimofthejarwithaclean,dampclothtoremoveanypastethatmayhaveclungthere.Screwthejarlidspartiallyonandplaceinaroomtemperaturespotawayfromdirectsunlighttofermentfor2to6weeks.Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavor,tightenthejarlidsandstoreinthefridge.

Yield:2quarts(1.8kg)

SHISOLEAFKIMCHITheKoreanconceptofssam(wrappingbitsoffoodinavarietyofleaves)mayjustbetheoriginallettucewrap,anditisdefinitelymyfavoritewaytoeatwithmyhands.Shisoleavesareonthesmallside,whichmakesthemperfectforpickingupjustabiteortwooffood.Itworksgreatwithricedishes,grilledmeats,andbanchan(smalldishes)ofallkinds.Ifyouwanttobereallymeta,youcaneveneatpiecesofPumpkinSpiceKimchi(page115)inShisoLeafKimchiwraps.Thebestpartofthisparticulardishisthatyou’realmostrequiredtolickyourfingerscleanonceyou’redoneeating.

Ingredients1/2cup(120ml)filteredwater

1tablespoon(10g)riceflour

20largepurpleshisoleaves,withatleast1/2inch(1.5cm)ofstem,rinsedandpatteddryPinchofsalt

1cloveofgarlic,peeled

1/2inch(1.5cm)ofginger

1/4teaspoontoastedsesameoil

1teaspoon(10ml)fishsauce

1teaspoon(3g)coarsegrindgochugaru

1teaspoon(3g)sesameseeds

Inyoursmallestsaucepan,bringthewaterandriceflourtoaboil,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about1minute.Transfertoabowlandmovetothefridgetocoolandthickenfurther.

Oncethericemixtureiscool,putitintoablenderorfoodprocessoralongwiththesalt,garlic,ginger,sesameoil,fishsauce,andgochugaruandblenduntilsmooth.Thisisasmallamountofpaste,soyoumayneedtoscrapedownthesidesafewtimestogetitallmixedin.Stirinthesesameseeds.

Usingasmallbastingbrushorglovedfingers,covertheleavesinricepaste.Onasmallplate,paintaverythinlayerovertheundersideofthelargestleaf,fromedgetoedge,andthenflipitoveranddothesameontheotherside.Placethe

edgetoedge,andthenflipitoveranddothesameontheotherside.Placethenextleafontopofthepaintedleaf,bottomsidedown,andspreadpasteoveritinthesamefashion,coveringeverythingbutthesteminathinlayer.Thericemixwillmaketheleavesholdtogether.Continuethisprocessuntiltheleavesareallstackedandcoveredinpaste.

Ifthereisasmallamountofricepastemixtureremaining,slatheritontothewholestack.Pickthestackupbythestemsandplaceflatinsideaplasticzipper-sealingbag.Pressthebagtoremoveairbubblesandseal.Letitsitfor48hoursinthefridge.

Thesedon’tkeeplong.Enjoywithin24hours.

Yield:20leaves,2or3servings

VERYVEGETABLEVEGANKIMCHIIhavemanyveganfriendswholovekimchi,soIoftenmakemyEverydayBaechuKimchi(page104)withoutfishsauceorsaltedshrimpsothateveryonecanenjoyit.Thiskimchiisaversionespeciallyforvegans,withnoanimalproductsandavegetabledoubledown.

Ingredients1/2head(1pound,or450g)napacabbage1/2smallleek

1smalldaikon(1/2pound,or225g)

1carrot

1/4cup(75g)koshersalt

83/4cups(2.1L)filteredwater,divided4teaspoons(13g)riceflour

1/4redororangebellpepper

3inches(7.5cm)ofginger,unpeeled

1/2mediumonion

Two1/4-inch(5mm)widepiecesofkombuSoakthenapacabbageorrinsethoroughlyincoolwatertoremoveanydirtordebristrappedwithinitsleaves.Setasidealargeleafforwhenit’stimetopackyourjar.Sliceeachhalfintoquarters.Youwillnowhave8longstripsofnapacabbage.Ifthestripsarewiderthan2inches(5cm),halvethemagainlengthwise.Cuthorizontallyacrosseachstriptocreate1-to2-inch(2.5to5cm)chunks.Placeallthecabbagepiecesintoalargebowl.

Trimtheleekandsliceitintothinrounds.Soakorrinsewelltoremoveanygrit.Removethecrownandgreensfromthedaikon.Removeanyrootsandcutinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)sticks.Trimandcoarselychopthecarrot.Addtheleek,daikon,andcarrottothebowlofcabbage.

Combinethesaltand8cups(1.9L)ofthewaterandstirtodissolve.Pourthemixtureoverthevegetablesinthebowl.Useaplateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicitemtokeepthevegetablessubmergedunderthebrine.Soakforatleast12andupto24hoursatroomtemperature.Aftersoaking,drainthevegetables,pattingthemdrywithacleankitchentoweltogetthemasdryas

vegetables,pattingthemdrywithacleankitchentoweltogetthemasdryaspossible.Rinseanddrythelargebriningbowlandthenreturnthevegetablestoit.

Inasmallsaucepan,combinetheremaining3/4cup(175ml)filteredwaterandriceflourandbringtoaboilovermedium-high,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about2minutes.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperatureandthickenfurther.

Whilethericepasteiscooling,chopthechivesinto2-inch(5cm)longpiecesandcoarselychopthebellpepper.Addtothebowlwiththedrainedvegetables.

Coarselychoptheunpeeledginger,onion,andgarlicandplaceintothebowlofafoodprocessoralongwiththegochugaruandcooledflourmixture.Blendintoasmoothpaste,scrapingdownthesidesasnecessary.

Putonyourkimchigloves.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetables,addthekombu,anduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetablesinpaste.Oncetheingredientsarewellmixed,removetheglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanquart(1L)jar.

Packthemixtureinthebowltightlyintothejar,leaving1to2inches(2.5to5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Wipetherimofthejarwithaclean,dampclothtoremoveanypastethatmayhaveclungthere.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthekimchidownandcoveryourjar.Youmayalsochoosenottouseaweightforthisrecipe,sincekimchiisnotpronetosurfaceissues.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to7days.Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavor,removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

Ifyoudon’thavekombu,youcanomitit,orinstead,add1/4teaspoonvegetablebouillonpasteintothericemixtureintheblendingstage.

⊲PUMPKINSPICEKIMCHIWhenevertheannualpumpkinspicelattefreak-outbegins,Igetexcited.Icouldn’tcarelessaboutthelatte,butIknowitmeansthatI’llsoonbeabletogetmyhandsonlocallygrownpumpkinsthatIcanusetomakethiskimchi.Ifyoucan’tfindsmallpumpkins,youcansubstitutejustaboutanywintersquash.Kabochaandbutternutsquashbothmakefantasticversionsofthiskimchi.

Ingredients1smallpumpkin(3pounds,or1.4kg)

53/4cups(1.4L)filteredwater,divided4teaspoons(13g)riceflour

1/2smallleek(2ounces,or60g),greentopsremoved4mediumcollardleaves

1/2teaspoonfishsauce

1/2smallonion,coarselychopped

1smallcarrot,unpeeledandcoarselychopped

1largecabbageleaf

Cutthepumpkininhalfanduseaspoontoscoopoutanddiscardtheseeds.Cutoutthestemandcarefullypeelthepumpkin.Reserveafewlargerstripsofpumpkinpeel.Slicethepeeledpumpkinhalvesintoroughly1/2-inch(1.5cm)cubes.Apointycornerorroundedsidehereorthereisfine.

Placethepumpkincubesinabowl.Stirthesaltinto5cups(1.2L)ofthewateruntildissolvedandpouroverthepumpkin.Useasmallplateorotherfood-safe,nonmetallicweighttosubmergethepumpkinpiecesinthebrine.Allowtosoakfor12to24hours.Afterbrining,drain,patdry,andplaceinalargebowl.

Inyoursmallestsaucepan,bringtheremaining3/4cup(175ml)waterandthericeflourtoaboilovermedium-highheat,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about2minutes.

Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperatureandthickenfurther.

Whilethericepasteiscooling,trimtheleekandsliceitinto1/8-inch(3mm)orthinnerrings.Placetheringsinasmallbowlandcoverwithwater.Setaside.Removethestemsfromthecollardsandlaytheleavesontopofeachother.Rollthemupandcutinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)strips.Placethestripsinthebowlwiththepumpkin.

Oncethericepasteiscool,placeitinthebowlofyourfoodprocessoralongwiththegarlic,ginger,gochugaru,redpepperflakes,fishsauce,onion,andcarrot.Processuntilthemixtureisrelativelysmooth.

Removetheleekfromthesoakingliquid,beingcarefulnottodisturbanygritatthebottomofthebowl,andplaceitinthebowlwiththepumpkinandcollardpieces.

Putonyourkimchigloves.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetables.Oncetheingredientsarewellmixed,removetheglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanquart(1L)jar.

Packthemixtureinthebowltightlyintothejar,leavinganinch(2.5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Wipetherimofthejarwithaclean,dampclothtoremoveanypastethatmayhaveclungthere.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthekimchidowntosubmergeitunderathinlayerofpasteandcoveryourjar.Youmayalsochoosenottouseaweightforthisrecipe,sincekimchiisnotpronetosurfaceissues.

Fermentatroomtemperaturefor6daysto3weeks.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

⊲MACANDKIMCHEESEMostofthefermentedvegetablesweeatinourhouseareconsumedraw,sometimesalone,sometimesassidesormixedintosalads.Thisistheoppositeofthat.It’spuredecadenceandit’sallaboutflavor.Servethisatafeastwithfriendswholiketoeatanddon’texpectleftovers.Foralargercrowd,doubletherecipeandbakeforanextra20to25minutes.

Ingredients8ounces(225)driedpennepasta

1cup(115g)shreddedGruyèrecheese

1cup(115g)shreddedCheddarcheese

2tablespoons(16g)cornstarch

Afewgrindsofblackpepper

13/4cups(410ml)wholemilk

1teaspoon(4g)mustard

2tablespoons(28g)butter

1/2cup(120ml)liquiddrainedfromEverydayBaechuorCrockKimchi(page104or170)1/4cup(75g)finelychoppedEverydayBaechu(page104)orRadishKimchi(page119),plusabitforgarnishPreheattheovento375°F(190°C,orgasmark5).

Inasaucepanovermedium-highheat,cookthepastafor5minutes,drain,andsetaside.Inaseparatebowl,mixtheshreddedcheesestogetherandsetaside.

Inalargesaucepan,whisktogetherthecornstarch,pepper,milk,andmustard.Addthebutterandplaceovermedium-highheat.Bringtoaboil,stirringconstantly,andaddthekimchiliquid.Continuetostiruntilthemixturereturnstoaboilandthenallowittoboilfor1minute.Removefromtheheatandadd11/2cups(175g)ofthecheeseandthechoppedkimchi.Stiruntilthecheeseismeltedandthenmixinthepasta.

Pourintoa2-quart(2L)bakingdishandsprinklewiththeremaining1/2cup(55g)cheese.Bake,uncovered,for25minutes.Placeunderthebroileronhighfor3minutesuntilbubblingandlightlybrowned.Allowtocoolfor10minutesbeforeeating.

Yield:4servings

•Foragluten-freeversion,substitutebrownricepasta.Cookthepastaforhalfthetimecalledforonthepackage.

•ThiscanbemadefromstarttofinishinaDutchorFrenchoven.

CUCUMBERKIMCHIThereisatraditionalstuffedcucumberkimchi(oisobagi)thatIlovetomake.Thelittlestuffedroundsareasbeautifulastheyaredelicious.Thatversionistraditionallynotfermented,andit’sservedassoonasit’smade.Thisfermentedadaptationislessbeautiful,buttheaddedflavorsoffermentationarewellworththevisualshift.

Ingredients1Englishcucumber,endstrimmed

1smallcarrot(2ounces,or60g)

1inch(2.5cm)ofginger,unpeeled

Slicethecucumberinto1-inch(2.5cm)tallrounds.Placethesaltinasmallbowlanddipeachcutsideofthecucumberpiecesintothesalt,coatingthementirelyinsalt.Rubanyresidualsaltoverthesidesofthecucumberpieces.Placethepiecesinacolanderinthesinkoroverabowlandletthemsitovernighttodrain.Whenthey’vedrainedforatleast8hours,rinsethemthoroughlyincoolwaterandplaceinabowl.

Inyoursmallestsaucepan,bringthewaterandriceflourtoaboil,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,2to3minutes.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperature.

Whilethericepasteiscooling,juliennethecarrotandcutthechivesinto1-to2-inch(2.5to5cm)pieces.Addtothebowlwiththecucumber.

Placetheginger,gochugaru,garlic,andcooledricepasteintothebowlofafoodprocessorandblenduntilsmooth.

processorandblenduntilsmooth.

Putonyourkimchigloves.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetables.Whenthepasteisspreadevenly,fitthepiecesintoaquart(1L)jar.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor3to7days.Thereisnoneedtoapplyweighttothisferment,sincethefermentationperiodissoshort.

Yield:3cups(675g)

RADISHKIMCHIThemoretraditionalversionofthiskimchiwouldbemadeonlywithmuradish,butIenjoytheaddedzingthatcomesfromusingavarietyofspicierradishestoo.Feelfreetogoeitherroute,dependingonwhatyouhaveaccesstoandyourpreferenceformilderorzingier’chi.

Ingredients1daikonor1pound(450g)mixedradishes

1/2cup(120ml)filteredwater

1tablespoon(10g)riceflour

4clovesofgarlic

1smallonion,coarselychopped

1/2bunchofKoreanchives,trimmed

Cuttheradishesinto3/4-inch(2cm)cubes.Placeinabowlandsprinklethecutsurfaceswithsalt.Letthemsitfor30minutesandthentossagain,redistributinganyresidualsaltatthebottomofthebowl.

Letthemsitforanother30minutesuntilvisiblywet.

Whiletheradishesaresalting,bringthewaterandriceflourtoaboilinyoursmallestsaucepan,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about2minutes.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperature.

Oncethericepasteiscoolandtheradishesaredamp,placetheradishesinacolanderandrinsethoroughlyundercoolwater.Tastearadish.Itshouldbequitesaltybutnotinedible.Allowtodrain.

Placethecooledricepaste,garlic,ginger,onion,fishsauce,andgochugaruintothebowlofafoodprocessorandblenduntilauniformpasteforms.

Chopthechivesinto2-inch(5cm)pieces.Pattheradishesdryandplacealltheingredientsinabowl.Putonyourkimchiglovesandtosstocombine.Oncethevegetablesarethoroughlycoatedinricepaste,packthemverytightlyintoaquart(1L)jar.Wipetherimofthejarwithaclean,dampclothtoremoveanypastethatmayhaveclungthere.Looselycoverthejarwiththelidandallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefrom7daysto2weeks.

Onceyouarehappywiththeflavor,securethelidandplacethejarinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

⊲NABAKKIMCHIThewordnabakreferstothesquareshapeofthevegetablepiecesinthiskimchi,butformethedefiningcharacteristicofthisparticularkimchiishowit’seaten—asadelightfullylight,chilledsoup.Enjoythiskimchiasanappetizerwhentheseasonschangefromcoldtowarm.

Ingredients1/2smalldaikon(1/4pound,or115g)1pound(450g)napacabbage

1/4smallonion(1ounce,or25g),chopped1smallAsianpear(7ounces,or200g),coredandcutinto8pieces

1/2inch(1.5cm)ofginger,minced

1carrot

2scallions,trimmedandcutinto2-inch(5cm)pieces

1tablespoon(7.5g)coarsegochugaruflakes

2clovesofgarlic,thinlysliced

Removethedaikongreensandcrown.Cutthedaikoninto1-inch(2.5cm)thickrounds.Togetthesquarish,nabakshape,layeachroundflatandcutintoquarters.Sliceeachdaikonquarterinto1/4-inch(5mm)thicksquares.Repeatwitheachdaikonslice,thenwiththecarrot.

Mixthedaikon,cabbage,onion,pear,ginger,carrot,scallions,gochugaru,andgarlictogetherinalargebowlandthendivideevenlybetween2quart(1L)jars.

Mixthesaltintothewateruntildisolvedandthenpourthebrineintoeachjaruntilthevegetablesarejustcovered.Dividethegochugaruflakesbetweenthejarsandstirtodistribute.

Althoughthisisabrinedferment,thefermentationtimeissoshortthatsubmersionisnotnecessary.Fermentfor4to5daysandchillbeforeserving.

Yield:2quarts(2L)

Traditionalnabakisbrothier,butIprefermysoupstobeloadedwithveg.Ifyou’dliketogothemoretraditionalroute,halvetheamountofcabbage,daikon,scallions,andpear.Thosewhodon’tlikeheatcanomitthegochugaru(redpepperflakes).

⊲PESTO-CHIIneverknowexactlyhowmanyseedswilltakeinmygarden,soIusuallyplantalotmorethanIneed,justtobesafe.Afewyearsago,everyseedtook,andIendedupwithseveraldozenbasilplants.Unexpectedbumpercropsaren’talwaysdesirablewhenyouhavealimitedcontainergardenonyourroofandtwopeopleinyourfamily.Astheseasondrewtoaclose,wehadreallyeatenenoughpesto,andtheneighborswenta-runnin’whentheysawmeapproachingwithafragrantbouquet.Iknewitwastimetofindanotheruseformyovergrowth.Thuswasbornpesto-chi,foreverendingmysearchforwaystouseanoverabundanceofbasil.

Ingredients

13/4pound(790g)headnapacabbage

1daikon(9ounces,or250g),trimmed,greensremoved

5cups(1.2L)filteredwater

13/4cups(42g)tightlypackedbasilleaves3clovesofgarlic

11/2teaspoons(7.5g)brownsugar

2tablespoons(7g)redpepperflakes

Zestof2lemons

Soakorthoroughlyrinsethecabbageinroomtemperaturewatertoremoveanydirtanddebris.Removeandreserveanyunattractiveorwiltedouterleaves.

Halvethecabbageandremovethecore.Sliceeachhalfintoquarters.Youwillnowhave8long,11/2inch(4cm)widestripsofnapacabbage.Cuthorizontallyacrosseachstriptocreateroughly11/2-inch(4cm)squares.Placethecabbagepiecesintoalargebowl.

Slicethedaikoninto1/4-to1/2-inch(5mmto1.5cm)widestripsandcutthemdownto2to3inches(5to7.5cm)inlength,ifnecessary.Addtothebowlwiththecabbage.

Addthesalttothewaterandstirtodissolve.Pourthebrineintothebowl.Useaplateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicitemtokeepthevegetablessubmerged

plateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicitemtokeepthevegetablessubmergedunderthebrine.Coverthebowlwithakitchentowelandallowthevegetablestosoakatroomtemperaturefor12to24hours.Aftersoaking,drainthevegetablesandpatdry.

Putthebasil,garlic,brownsugar,andredpepperflakesinafoodprocessorandblendtoapasteconsistency.Stirinthelemonzest.

Putonyourkimchigloves.Scoopthebasilmixtureintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandtocoatthevegetables.Oncetheingredientsarewellmixed,removetheglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanquart(1L)jar.Packthejartightlywithkimchi.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefrom5daysto2weeks.At5days,thebasilflavorwillbeveryprominent.Thelongeryouferment,themoreitmellowsintothesourflavorsoffermentation.

Onceyouarehappywiththeflavor,removetheweight,securethejarlid,andstoreinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

SALSA-CHIMyhusband,anativeCalifornian,madeithismissiontointroducemetothebestofwhatCentralCoasttaqueriashadtooffer.Histaqueriacampaigntaughtmethatnotacoiscompletewithoutasideofradishandcarrotandthefullcomplementoftastysalsas.Thoseflavorsinspiredthiskimchi.

Ingredients

1headnapacabbage(13/4pounds,or800g)8smallcherrybellradishes,trimmedandquartered

1carrot(2ounces,or50g),chopped

1/4cup(75g)koshersalt

1largetomato(7ounces,or200g)

2tablespoons(32g)tomatopaste

2largejalapeñopeppers,stemsandcrownsremoved

1/2smallonion(2ounces,or50g)

3clovesofgarlic

4scallions,chopped

1/2bunchofcilantro,chopped(stemsincluded)Zestof1lime

Soakorthoroughlyrinseyourcabbageincoolwatertoremovedirtanddebris.Removethewiltedouterleaves.Halvethecabbageandremovethecore.Sliceeachhalfintoquarters.Youwillnowhaveeight,11/2-inch(4cm)widestrips.Cuthorizontallyacrosseachstriptocreateroughly11/2-inch(4cm)squares.Placeallthecabbagepiecesintoalargebowl.Addtheradishandcarrotpieces.

Pourthesaltintothewaterandstirtodissolve.Pourthebrineoverthevegetablesinthebowl.Useaplateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicitemtokeepthevegetablessubmergedunderthebrine.Coverthebowlwithakitchentowelandallowthevegetablestosoakatroomtemperaturefor12to24hours.Aftersoaking,thoroughlydrainthevegetablesandpatdrywithacleankitchentowel.Placeinalargebowl.

Placethetomato,tomatopaste,jalapeños,onion,andgarlicintothebowlofafoodprocessorandblenduntilsmooth,scrapingdownasnecessary.Oncethemixtureissmooth,pouritoverthevegetablesinthebowl.Addthescallions,cilantro,andlimezesttothebowl.

cilantro,andlimezesttothebowl.

Putonyourkimchiglovesanduseyourhandstomixtheingredientstogetherandcoatthevegetables.Oncetheingredientsarewellmixed,removetheglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanquart(1L)jar.Packthemixtureverytightlyintothejar,coverthejar,andfermentatroomtemperaturefor3to5days.

Onceyouarehappywiththeflavor,securethejarlidandstoreinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

GREENBEANKIMCHIThisisoneofmyveryfavoritekimchicreations.Bynomeansatraditionalkimchi,thisrecipetakesitsinspirationfromoneofmyfavoriteChineserestaurantdishes—spicygreenbeans.TheadditionofChinesefive-spicepowderisthekeytoacrazyflavorfuldish.

Ingredients1/2pound(225g)greenbeans,endstrimmed5teaspoons(30g)koshersalt

41/2cups(1.1L)filteredwater,divided1tablespoon(10g)riceflour

1inch(2.5cm)ofginger,unpeeled

2clovesofgarlic

1/2small(2ounces,or50g)onion

1/2teaspoonChinese5-spicepowder

5stemsofChinesechives

Cutthegreenbeansinto1-inch(2.5cm)piecesandplaceinabowl.

Mixthesaltinto4cups(940ml)ofthewaterandstiruntildissolved.Pourthebrineintothebowlwiththegreenbeans.Useasmallplateoranotherfood-safe,nonmetallicobjecttokeepthebeanssubmerged.Allowthemtositatroomtemperatureovernightandthendrain.

Inyoursmallestsaucepan,bringtheremaining1/2cup(120ml)waterandthericeflourtoaboil,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about2minutes.Removefromtheheatandallowtocooltoroomtemperature.

Oncethericepastehascooled,putitinafoodprocessoralongwiththeginger,gochugaru,garlic,onion,fishsauce,and5-spicepowder.Blenduntilsmooth.

Putonyourkimchigloves.Scooptheblendedricepasteintothebowlwiththevegetablesanduseyourhandstomixwellandtocoatthevegetables.Removetheglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanpint

theglovefromyournondominanthandandusethathandtoholdacleanpint(500ml)jar.Packthemixtureinthebowltightlyintothejarandthenlooselyattachthelid.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1to2weeks.Onceyou’rehappywiththeflavor,tightenthelidandstoreintherefrigerator.

Yield:1pint(450kg)

Sauces,Salsas,andCondiments

Theconceptofeatingpickledvegetablesasanaccompanienttovirtuallyeverymealhasalongtraditioninmanycultures,fromtheKoreanbanchantotheIndianthali.IntheWest,we’remorepronetocoveratableinsaucesandcondimentsasmealaccompaniments.Therecipesinthischapterseektoserveasakindofcombinationofthetwo—whynotgetourprobioticswhileseasoningourfoodsthewaywealwaysdo?

Iknowalotoffamilieshavemixedvalues—halfthefamilylovesfermentswhiletheotherhalfsaysnothanks.Fermentingcommoncondiments,however,canbeagreatwaytoleadmorereluctantfermentconsumersdownthepathtofermentationbliss.

SummerCornSalsa

SimpleSalsa,TwoWays

TomatilloSalsa

HotSauce

HotPepperFlakes

FermentedTomatoSauce

EggplantPâté

ThousandIslandDressing

WinterSquashHummus

⊲SUMMERCORNSALSAAsaMichigankid,Igrewupwiththesureknowledgethatswimmingpools+corn=summer.Whileyou’llneverconvincemethatthecornfromanyotherstateisassweet,thissalsawillmakeevenlessercornshine.It’sasalsathatworksgreatstraightoutofthejarorwiththeadditionofsomefreshchoppedtomatoandcilantroaddedjustbeforeserving.Don’tworryaboutcookingthecorn;fermentationwillleaveyourcornbarelysweetandreadytodevour.

Ingredients4mediumearsofcorn,preferablyorganic,shucked1/2cup(80g)dicedsweetonion1/2cloveofgarlic,thinlysliced1jalapeñopepper,diced

11/2teaspoons(12g)coarsesalt1cupplus2tablespoons(265g)filteredwater

Placethewideendofoneearofcornonaplateorinashallowbowl.Holdingtheotherend,useasharpknifetoshavedownwardtoremovethekernelsfromthecob.Repeatwiththeremainingears.

Placethecornkernels,onion,garlic,andjalapeñointoapint(500ml)jar.Mixthesaltintothewaterandpourthebrineoverthevegetables.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergeyourveggiesandcoveryourjar.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor4to5days.Thebrineshouldbecloudyandthecornshouldstilltastealittlesweet.Itshouldalsobequitetangy.

Chill.Drainthefermentingliquidfromthesalsabeforeserving.

Yield:1pint(450g)

SIMPLESALSA,TWOWAYSSincetomatoesarehighinsugar,theycanbreakdownmorequickly,resultinginanunpleasantlymealyfeelratherthanafresh,ripebite.Forthatreason,apuréedsalsaisbetterifyouarefermentingalloftheingredients.Theotheroptionistoskipthetomatoduringfermentationandaddthefreshtomatoesandcilantrobeforeserving(picostyle).Botharetastyandquitedifferentfromoneanother.Servewithchipsortacos.

Ingredients1heapingcup(200g)coredchoppedtomato(1largeheirloomor3mediumslicers)1/2cup(75g)choppedonion1smallcloveofgarlic1/2jalapeñopepper,seeded1teaspoon(6g)salt(or1/4teaspoonforpico,plusmoretotasteinthefinished

product)1/2cup(8g)packedfreshcilantro,stemsandleavesSqueezeoflime(optional),forserving

PuréedStyle:Placethetomatoes,onion,garlic,andjalapeñoinapintjar(500ml).Addthesalt,putthelidontightly,andgiveitashaketodistributethesalt.Youshouldseethetomatoesgivingupsomeliquidwithinahalfhour.Loosenthelidabitandsettheoveratoweloraplateinaspotoutofdirectsunlight.

Vegetablesolidswillrisetothetop,soonceortwiceaday,givethejaralittleshaketokeepthetomatoescoveredinliquid.

Tasteat3days;ifyouliketheflavor,it’sdone!Ifyouthinkitcoulduseabitmoreacidity,giveitanotherday.

Onceit’sfermentedtoyourliking,strainofftheliquid(youcanreservethistouseasastarterforacondimentoraddittosouporanythingelsewhereyou’dlikeahitofacid,flavor,andsalt).Placethecontentsofthejarinafoodprocessorwithallbut1sprigofthecilantro.Pulsetogetaslightlychunkytexture.

Pourthesalsaintoabowlandsqueezethelimeoverit.Choptheremainingcilantroanduseasgarnish.

PicoStyle:Mincethegarlic.Placetheonion,garlic,andjalapeñoinapint(500ml)jar.Mixabrineof1/2cup(120ml)filteredwaterto1/4teaspoonsalt.Pourthebrineovertheveggiesandsecurethelid.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor5days.

Strainofftheliquidandplacefermentedvegetablesinabowl.Tosswithchoppedtomatoes.Chopthecilantroandtosswiththevegetables.Addsalttotaste.Addasqueezeoflimeifdesired.

Yield:1pint(450g)

TOMATILLOSALSAIliveneartheItalianMarketinPhiladelphia,dangerouslyclosetoalotoficonicfoodshops.WhenIleavemydoor,Iwalkbycountlessvegetablestands,threecheeseshops,afantastickitchensupplystore,and,perhapsmosttemptingofall,TortilleriaSanRoman.Thispocketshophashotfreshtortillascomingoffthepressalldaylongandavarietyofhouse-madesalsas.Myfavoriteistheir(unfermented)verde.Theamountofsalsawe’veboughtfromthereconvincedmetostartgrowingmyowntomatillossoIcouldmakemyownfermentedversion.Thisistheresult.

Ingredients1bunchofcilantro,divided40minior10regulartomatillos,huskremoved,rinsedtoremovestickiness1heapingteaspoon(4g)minced

whiteonion

1smallcloveofgarlic,minced

11/2teaspoons(9g)koshersalt1cup(235ml)filteredwater

Placehalfofthebunchofcilantroinapint(500ml)jar.Topwiththetomatillos,onion,andgarlic.Stirthesaltintothewaterandpourthebrineintothejar.Closethejarwithitslid,butleavetheringloosesothatCO2canescapeduringfermentation.

Allowtofermentfor7to10daysandthenstrainoffandreservetheliquid.Pulsetheremaininghalfbunchofcilantroandthecontentsofthejarinafoodprocessoruntilchunky.Ifyouwantawettersalsa,addthereservedfermentingliquidatablespoon(15ml)atatimeuntilyouhavetheconsistencyyouwant.Serveimmediatelyorstoreintherefrigerator.

Yield:1pint(450g)

⊲HOTSAUCEImayhavecomelatetothehotsauce–makinggame,butonceIstarted,Icouldn’tstop.Igrowasmanyvarietiesofhotpeppersascanfitonmyroof,Ibuythembythecasefromlocalfarmers,andyeteveryyear,myhusbandandIhavecleanedoutourvariedstockofhotpeppersaucesbyFebruary.Thisisaveryflexiblerecipe.SubstituteyourfavoritepeppersfortheFresnosandcayennesthatmakemyveryfavoritesauce.

IngredientsCloves,staranise,mustardseeds,onionpowder,etc.,totaste(optional)4packedcups(400g)hotpeppers,stemsandcapsremoved5clovesofgarlic

1tablespoon(18g)salt

Ifusingseasonings,placeinapintjar(500ml).

Slicethepepperinhalflengthwise.

Packthepeppersandgarlicintothejar,astightlyaspossible.It’sokayifthepeppersbreakabit.

Stirthesaltintothewateruntildissolved.Pourthebrineintothejaranduseaweightensurethatthepeppersstaysubmerged(seepages23to28).Youwanttouseaslittlebrineaspossiblehere,sobesurethatyourpeppersarewellpackedin.Coveryourjar.

Allowtofermentforatleast2weeks.Pepperscanfermentforquiteawhile.Overtime,theheatwilllessensomewhat,soforfermentsthatgolongerthan3months,besuretouseabitmoreheatthanyouwantinyourfinalproduct.Peppersarepronetoverycloudybrineandflakesinthebrineandonthesurfaceofthepeppers.Thatisanormalpartofthefermentationprocessandnothingtobeconcernedabout.Ifthebuildupisheavy,justquicklyrinsethepeppersincoolwaterbeforepuréeing.

Oncefermentationiscomplete,drainandreservethebrineandplacethepeppersandgarlicinafoodprocessor,strainingoutanywholespicespriortopuréeing.

andgarlicinafoodprocessor,strainingoutanywholespicespriortopuréeing.Processfor2to3minutesuntilasmoothpasteforms.

Addthebrineatablespoon(15ml)atatimeuntilitreachesthedesiredconsistency.Foraliquid,Tabasco-stylesauce,additall.Forasrirachaconsistency,addbetween1/4and1/2cup(60and120ml)ofbrine.

Runthepuréethroughafoodmillorpressthroughafine-meshstrainerusingaspatula.ReservethepastetomakeHotPepperFlakes(page134),ifdesired.

Pourintoabottleandstoreinthefridge.

Yield:1pint(500ml)

⊲HOTPEPPERFLAKESFermentedredpepperflakesareaby-productofthehotsauce–makingprocess.Ilovethatthesepreventfoodwasteinawaythatofferssomuchflavorforsolong.Youcandefinitelyaddyourownhouseblendofsuperredpepperflakestothelistoftieronesecretingredients!Ifyouhaveadehydrator,youcankeeptheseprobioticbykeepingthetemperaturesettoabout90°F(32°C).Otherwise,justbakethematthelowestsettinginyouroven.

IngredientsRemainingpastefrommaking2recipesofHotSauce(page33),madeasdryaspossiblethroughmillingPreheattheovento200°F(93°C).

Onalargebakingsheetlinedwithasiliconebakingmatorparchmentpaper,spreadthepaste/seedmixtureintoathinlayer.Useaspatulatomakethemixasuniformaspossible.Thethinnerthelayer,thefasteritwilldryintheoven.

Placethebakingsheetintheovenandbakeforabout2hoursuntilthepasteistotallydriedandcrisp.Youshouldbeabletobreakapieceoff.Setasideuntilcoolandthenbreakthechunksapartwithcleanfingers.Placethemintoashakeror1/2pint(250ml)jar.Storeinthepantryorfridge.

Yield:1cup(225g)

FERMENTEDTOMATOSAUCETomatoesareusuallyfermentedgreen(unripe)orwithastarterbecausethetextureoffermentedripetomatoesisverymushy.Inthiscase,however,youcangorightfortheripestsummertomatoes.Sinceyou’llbepuréeingthefinalproduct,softnessdoesn’tmatteronebit.Fermentingripetomatoesresultsinanincrediblypureandintensetomatoflavor.Thisconcentratedflavorworksbestwhenlightlytossedwithpastaorsautéedvegetables.

Ingredients2pounds(900g)ripetomatoes,preferablyafleshyheirloomvariety1tablespoon(20g)coarseseasalt

1cloveofgarlic,coarselychopped

1/2mediumonion(2ounces,or60g),cutintochunks1/4cup(10g)packedfreshbasilleaves1teaspoon(2g)driedoregano

Pinchofdriedrosemary(optional)

Chopthetomatoesintolargechunks,removingthecoreandanywetseedclustersthatareeasytopushout.Youshouldendupwithabout4cups(720g)choppedtomatoes.Placeinabowlandtosswiththesalt.

Placethegarlicandonionintoaquart(1L)jarandthenaddthesaltedtomatoes.Thejarshouldbefulluptothethreads.Placethelidonthejar,butleaveitalittleloosesothatCO2canescapeduringfermentation.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor4days,awayfromdirectsunlight.Thetomatoesandliquidwillseparate.Gentlystir1to2timesdailytore-submergethevegetablesandpreventsurfaceyeastsfromforming.

At4days,useafine-meshstrainertodraintheliquidfromthevegetables.Ifyouwanttoreservetheliquidtouseasbraisingliquidorsoupstock,strainoverabowlandstoreinfridge.

Placethefermentedvegetables,basil,oregano,androsemaryinablenderandprocessuntilverysmooth.Useimmediatelyorreturntothejarandstoreinthefridge.Thissaucewillkeepforatleast2weeks,butitwillbecomeincreasinglyacidicastimepasses.

acidicastimepasses.

Yield:3cups(735g)

EGGPLANTPÂTÉThisfermentedspreadmakesafantasticraw,vegan(iffishsauceisomitted),andgluten-freeamuse-bouchewhenservedoncucumberslices.Ifyouwantalittlelessfiberinyourtexture,carefullyslicethepeelsofftheeggplantafterfermentationbutbeforepuréeing.

3/4pound(340g)Italianeggplant,unpeeled2clovesofgarlic

21/4teaspoons(17g)koshersalt11/2cups(355ml)filteredwater1/4cup(60ml)oliveoil2tablespoons(30g)tahini

1teaspoon(5ml)freshlemonjuice

2teaspoons(10ml)fishsauce(optional)

Removetheendsoftheeggplantandcutinhalflengthwise.Cuteachhalfinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)slices.

Placethegarlicclovesintoaquart(1L)jarandpacktheeggplantslicesontop.

Dissolvethesaltintothewaterandpourthemixtureoverthevegetablesinthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),submergetheeggplantandcoveryourjar.

Allowtofermentfor1week.

Afterfermentation,drain,reservingtheliquidforanotheruse,ifdesired.Removethepeelsifasmootherpâtéisdesired.

Placetheeggplant,garlic,oliveoil,tahini,lemonjuice,andfishsauce,ifusing,intoablenderandblendonhighuntilsmooth.Scoopintoaservingbowlandserveimmediatelyorstoreinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto10days.Notethatthetopmostlayermaybecomediscoloredovertimeinthefridge;ifthathappens,justscrapeoffthetopandenjoywhat’sunderneath.

Yield:1heapingcup(240g)

THOUSANDISLANDDRESSINGReubensmaywellbethefermentiestsandwich.Bread?Fermented.Cheese?Fermented.Sauerkraut?Fermented.Cornedbeef?Fermented.Theonlythingonthesandwichthatisn’talwaysfermentedistheThousandIslanddressing.Here’sthesolution!MakeyourThousandIslanddressingwithhomefermentedpicklesandyoucompletethefermentedpicture.ForanextraspecialThousandIslanddressing,subCuminBasilBeets(page46)forcucumberpickles.

1/4cup(60g)mayonnaise2tablespoons(30g)ketchup

1tablespoon(10g)veryfinelymincedCocktailOnionRings(page66)2tablespoons(20g)veryfinelymincedClassicDillPickleSpears(page68)Mixalltheingredientstogetheruntilauniform,pink/peachcolorisachieved.Spoonorpourontothesandwichofyourchoice.Anyremainingdressingwillkeepinthefridgeforafewdays,butitmayneedtobestirredbeforeusing.

Yield:1/2cup(120g)

⊲WINTERSQUASHHUMMUSThefirsttimeItastedthepickledbutternutsquashatafavoritePhillyrestaurant,CheUNoodleBar,Iknewthecomplexityofflavormeantitwasfermented.Thechefthere,BenPuchowitz,isoftenaccessiblebehindthebarseatingatCHeU,andheconfirmedthatitdefinitelydoesn’tmushduringfermentationandthathemakesitlikeasimple,brinedlacto-pickle.Istartedmakingmyownthatnight,andI’vefoundittobeanextremelyversatilepicklethatgoesveryquickly.Thisdipmakesitgoevenfaster.Serveitwithcrispy,nuttycrackersorrawandroastedcarrotsfordipping.

Ingredients1smallwintersquash(1pound,or450g),suchasbutternut,acorn,delicata,orkabocha11/2teaspoons(9g)koshersalt1cup(235ml)filteredwater1/4cup(60ml)oliveoil1/4cup(60ml)pumpkinseedoil+11/2teaspoons(7.5ml)fordrizzle(Youcan

substitutewalnutorhazelnutoil.)2tablespoons(30ml)brinefromfermentationofsquash

2tablespoons(30g)tahini

1/2cup(114g)toastedpumpkinseedsPeelthesquash,reservingthelargerstripsofpeel.Removeanddiscardtheseedsandchopthesquashinto1-inch(2.5cm)chunks.Packthepiecesintoaquart(1L)jarandslidebitsofthereservedpeelinaroundthesides.Fitasmuchpeelasyoucanintothejar,butskipthesmallpiecesthatwillhavetobeweededoutafterfermentation.

Stirthesaltintothewaterandpourintothejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthesquashdownandcoveryourjar.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor6daysto2weeks.Afterfermentation,strain,butreserve2tablespoons(30ml)ofbrine.Removeanddiscardthepeel.

Placethesquash,oils,andbrineintoafoodprocessorandmixonhighfor3to4minutes,stoppingthemachinetoscrapedownthesidesasnecessary.Themixtureshouldbequitesmoothwhenit’sdone,soprocessforlongerifnecessary.Addthetahiniandprocessforanotherminuteuntilwellcombined.

Placeinabowlanduseaspatulatosmooththesurface.Drizzlewiththeremainingpumpkinseedoilandtopwiththepumpkinseeds.

Yield:11/2cups(360g)

Sodaistoosugary,andbeerandwinearetooboozy.Coffeeandteamaykeepyoubuzzingallnightlong,andwater,whilegreatforhydratingourbodies,doesn’talwayswowourtastebuds.Sowhatarethirstyfolkstodo?Drinkkvass!Thesefermenteddrinkspusheveryhealthbutton,fromvitaminandmineralcontenttoprobioticpizazz,allwhiletastinggreat.Everyvegetablehasitsownflavorsignature.Somearefreshandacidifyquickly,whileothersareearthyandfunky.Manyofthesedrinkscanbemadefizzythroughbottling,ifyou’rethebubble-lovingtype.

Kvassistraditionallymadefrombeets,butanyvegetablethatfermentswellwillgiveyouatop-notchbeverage.Feelfreetoexplorebeyondtheoptionsyoufindhere.Whynotexperimentwithaholidayspiceturnipkvassorasummerbarbecuecornkvass?

RedBeetKvass

SunnyHerbKvass

WinterHerbKvass

WoodsyGinandTonic

Bull’s-eyeBeetKvass

LettuceKvass

CabbageKvass

CeleryKvass

CucumberFennelKvass

MoroccanCarrotKvass

TipsandGuidelinesManyofthegeneralprinciplesoffermentationlaidoutinpartoneapplyhere,butbelowareafewbeverage-specifictipsandguidelines.

WatchtheClockEachrecipehasarangeoffermentationtimes.Theearliertimeswillhavealessinfusedflavorandloweracidity.Ifyou’rehappywiththeacidityattheearliesttimeintherangebutyoufeelthatitneedsmoreflavor,moveyourjartotherefrigeratorandallowittocontinuetoinfusefor10daysormore.Thecoolertemperaturewillslowfermentation,sotheaciditywon’tincreasemuchbuttheflavorsofthevegetablesandseasoningswillcontinuetoinfuse.

Aswithallvegetablefermentation,temperatureimpactsfermentationtime,soplanontastingattheearlierpartoftherangeinwarmerhomesorseasonsandatthelaterpartoftherangeatcoolertimes.Youcanabsolutelygolonger,buttrytokeepthetemperaturelow.Overlongerperiods,youmayseetheformationofathinlayerofKahmyeast(whitishincolorandnotfuzzy)onthesurface,whichisharmless.JustacceptthatKahmispartoftheprocessandskimoffwhatyoucanwhenyouseeit.

ThinkBig(Jars)Water-sealingcrocksandlarge1/2-gallon(1.9L)jarsworkparticularlywellfortheseprobioticvegetabledrinks.Thejarsareavailablemostplacesthatcanningjarscanbefound.

LargeEuropeanjarsthatsealwithagasketandclampalsomakegoodchoices(withafewcaveats;see“ALiteralFlavorBomb,”page149)andareavailableinlargersizes,butold,store-boughtpicklejarsdothejobquitewell,too(justbesuretothoroughlycleanthembeforeuse).

GetVisualSomeofthesebeverageswillhaveboldlybeautifulcolors,whileotherswillhaveapale,cloudyappearance.Thatcloudinessisanormalpartofthefermentationprocessandnothingtobeconcernedabout,butifyouwanttoampupthehueabit,addafewchunksofbeetorafewsliced,redradishestojustaboutanykvassforaburstofcolor.

aboutanykvassforaburstofcolor.

LetItVentCO2iscreatedduringallvegetablefermentation,andwithkvass,itisespeciallyimportanttomakesurethatithasawaytoescapethefermentationvessel.Ifyouownanairlock,thisisagreatplacetouseit.Ifyoudon’t,makesurethatthejarlidisattachedloosely,sothataircan’teasilygetin,butCO2caneasilyescape.Tightenedlidscouldmeandangerous,explodingjarsormessy,sprayingkvass,neitherofwhichisdesirable.Ialwaysleaveabout2inches(5cm)ofspacebetweentheliquidandtherimofthejar,butasyoucanseein“AsktheProfessionalKvassMaker,”mineisnottheonlywaytodoit.

What’sinaName?Kvassisabitofamisnomerfortheseparticularbeveragesbecausethewordmeans“yeast”inavarietyoflanguages,andthekindoffermentationwe’redoinghereisprimarilybacterial.Thetermkvassmostaccuratelyreferstobreadkvass,abeer-likeRussianfermentthatisactuallyyeast-fermented.

Soalthoughthewidelyusedwordisn’ttechnicallycorrect,itcanbeconsideredsomewhataccuratebecausethesevegetabledrinksarepronetothatsurfacelayerofyeastwejustdiscussed(Kahmyeast).Weknowthatthatyeastlayerisharmlessandyoumayskimanystraybitsyousee,butIprefertopreventtheyeastfromforminginthefirstplacebygivingmyjaradailyswirl—notahardshake,justalittleswirltodisruptthesurfaceandpreventanythingfromformingthere.Ifayeastlayerdoessomehowform,justskimitwhenyouseeit.Theseyeastsaremorelikelytooccurduringthewarmermonths,withsweetervegetables(beetsandcarrots,forinstance),andduringlongerfermentationperiods.Evenairlocksystemswillnotkeepsurfaceyeastsfromforming,sodailyswirlsarestillrecommended.

Inadditiontotheswirl,Isometimesplaceacabbageleaforcollardgreenintotheopeningofthejar.Itcanactasasurfacebarrierandalsoputanyvegetablesorseasoningsthatrisetothesurfacebackunderneaththeliquid.ForanotherperspectiveondealingwithKahm,see“AskaProfessionalKvassMaker”onpage145.

REDBEETKVASSThisismystandardbeetkvassrecipe.Iliketohavealittleonhandallyear-round,substitutingthebasilforwhateverherbismostseasonalwhenIstartabatch.Beetkvassisalsoadailyfavoriteofmyhusband,whohasfoundthatithelpssoothehisacidreflux.WhatIlovemost,though,istheluxurious,deepredcolorofthisdrink.It’sperfectforHalloweenpartiesandtheBuffyloverinyourlife.

3largebeets(3pounds,or1.4kg)

1inch(2.5cm)ofginger,grated

1cup(24g)wholebasilstems

3quarts(3L)filteredwater

1to2teaspoons(6to12g)salt(optional)

Removethebeetgreensandwashthebeets.Trimanyunattractivebitsofrootandanysoftspotsandcuteachbeetintoeighths.

Addthebeets,ginger,andbasiltoa1-gallon(4L)jar.PourthewaterinandcoverthejareitherwithanairlockorwithalidleftlooseenoughtoallowCO2toescape.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor6to10daysandthenstraintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.

Yield:3quarts(3L)

SUNNYHERBKVASSUrbangardeningcanrequireabitofcreativity,butherbsarealwaysaneasyoption.ItrytogrowasmanydifferenttypesofherbsasIcanfit,simplybecausetheytrulymakethedishandbecausethey’resoinexpensivetogrow.Inthedepthofsummer,Imakeafewvatsofthisstufftoremindmethatsummerdoesexistonthosecold,wintryDecembernights.

1bunchofflat-leafparsley

1bunchofcilantro

1bunchofbasil

1/2teaspoon(2g)seasalt31/2quarts(3.5L)filteredwaterPickthroughtheherbbunches,removinganyyellowingorbrowningleaves.

Rinsetheherbsandplacethewholebunchesandthesaltintoa1-gallon(4L)jar.Pourinthefilteredwateruntilthejarisfullto2inches(5cm)belowtherimorfillallthewaytotherimandplaceinabowlforthedurationofthefermentation.

Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2,andallowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to6days.Straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.

Yield:31/2quarts(3.5L)

AskaProfessionalKvassMakerCarlyandDaveDoughertyaretheownersofFood&Ferments,anupstateNewYork-andPhiladelphia-basedfermentationcompany.Food&FermentsisbelovedforinnovativekombuchaandkrautflavorsandmostespeciallyforabeetkvassthathasfansallovertheEastCoast.AlthoughintheircommercialoperationtheyhavespecializedequipmentthatpreventsKahmyeastfromformingonthesurfaceofthekvasstheysell,theyarenostrangerstoKahmin

theirhomeproduction.HereareafewofCarly’stoptipsforperfectkvass.ONAVOIDINGKAHMYEASTSONBEETKVASS•Filljarsallthewaytothetop,sothattheliquidmakescontactwiththelid.Storethejaroveraplateorbowlduringfermentationbecauseitmaybubbleover,butit’sworthittoavoidtheoffflavorsthatcansometimesresultfromKahmyeast.

•Useanairlockforhomeproduction.Thisistheoneinstancewhereanairlockmaymakesenseforhomefermentation.Thelessairexposure,thelesslikelyyouaretoseeaKahmlayerpopup.Ifthekvassbubblesoutsomuchthatthelevelinthejarlowersbelowthelid,simplyaddabitmorewatertorefreshandresealthekvass’scontactwiththelid.Inthefirstfewdays,whenthebeetkvassismostactive,yourairlockmayfillwithkvassasitexpands.Don’tworry;refillyourairlockwithfreshwater(or,betteryet,vodkatopreventunwantedmicrobialactivityintheairlock)aftertheactivityhasceased,usuallywithin4daysorso.

ONCONCOCTINGKVASS•Spiceitup.Manybeetkvassrecipesusejustbeets,salt,water,andmaybealittlewhey.Forbestresults,spiceitup!Addingpungentrootsandspicypepperstobeetkvassisagoodwaytomaketheflavormoresavoryandrefreshing.Ginger,garlic,horseradish,andjalapeñoareallexcellentadditions.

•Golong.Rememberthatyourkvasswilldevelopmoreflavorandaciditythelongerit’sfermented.CarlyandDavefermenttheirkvassfor3to4weeks,whichmaybeonereasonthatit’safavoriteforsomanyoftheirpatrons.

FINALTHOUGHTSIfyoudogetKahmyeastonyourhome-brewedkvass,it’sreallynotabigdeal.Skimitoffwhenyouseeitandenjoythefinishedfermentwhenit’sready.

⊲WINTERHERBKVASSThecityofGeneva,Switzerland,mightaswellbethesetofaspaghettiwesternforthenumberoftumbleweedsthatrollthroughtownduringskiseason.WithsnowfallinginthenearbyAlps,residentsfleetothehills,snowboardsandskisinhand.I’veneverenjoyedbeingcoldorfallingonmybutt,somygo-toactivitywhenIlivedinGenevawastoaccompanyfriendsupthehill.Whiletheyskied,Ihikedthroughthesnowypinesandsoakedupthewintersun.Eachintenselyherbaceousandwoodygulpofthiskvassremindsmeofpinetreesandsunshineonthechillyslopes.

1largeradish,cutintothirds

1largebunch(2ounces,or60g)offreshthyme

1largebunch(2ounces,60g)offreshrosemary

1largebunch(2ounces,60g)offreshsage

1/4teaspoonseasalt3quarts(3L)filteredwater

Placetheradish,wholeherbbunches,andsaltintoa1-gallon(4L)jarandpourthefilteredwaterinuntilthejarisfullto2inches(5cm)belowtherimorfillallthewaytotherimandplaceinabowlfortheentiretyofthefermentation.Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2,andleavetofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to7days.Straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.Thismixturemaybefermentedforlongerthan7days,buttheflavorstartstobecomequitewoodsy.

Yield:3quarts(3L)

WOODSYGINANDTONICWhenIletmyWinterHerbKvassfermentabittoolongandthewoodsyflavorbecomesabittoointensetoenjoyasastand-alonedrink,Iknowit’stimetobreakoutthegin.I’mallaboutservingupthesecretingredientstoimpressguests,andthismixerwilldefinitelyhavethemwonderinghowyoumakeyourG&Tsbetterthaneveryoneelse’s.

1/4cup(60ml)gin2tablespoons(30ml)WinterHerbKvass

1/3cup(80ml)tonicwaterTwistoflime

PourtheginandkvassintoaCollinsglassfullofice.Addthetonicwaterandgarnishwithatwistoflime.

Yield:1cocktail

⊲BULL’S-EYEBEETKVASSIlovetomakekvasswiththeChioggiabeets.Theirinteriorbull’s-eyepatterniseyecandyduringfermentation,butbetteryet,theymakeastraight-upneonbeverage.Ilovethatit’snotjustweirdfooddyesandinsaneprocessingmethodsthatcanmakeabrightpinkdrink.Irelishtheknowledgethatsomethingcanbeorganic,healthful,andthiscolorful.Ifyoucan’tfindChioggiabeets,feelfreetousegoldenorredbeetsinstead.Theonlydifferencewillbethecolor.

Ingredients4largeChioggiabeets(4pounds,or1.8kg)2organicunwaxedlemons,quartered

8inches(20cm)ofginger,unpeeled,chopped

1tablespoon(5g)corianderseeds

4bayleaves

2allspiceberries

4juniperberries

1teaspoonsalt(optional)

Removethecrownandgreensfromthebeets.Trimanyunattractivebitsofrootandanysoftspotsandcuteachbeetintoeighths.Scrubandquarterthelemons.Puttheginger,coriander,bayleaves,allspiceberries,juniperberries,andsaltina1-gallon(4L)jar,addthebeetsandunsqueezedlemonwedges,andpourinthefilteredwatertofillto2inches(5cm)belowtherim.Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2,andleavetofermentatroomtemperaturefor7to10days.Straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.

Yield:9cups(2.1L)

Youcandoasecondbatchwiththesamevegetablesandseasonings.Theflavorwillbecompletelydifferentandthecolorwillnotbeasintense.Thesecondbatchwillonlyneedtofermentfor3days.

ALiteralFlavorBombIfrequentlyfermentkvassinEuro-styleclamp-and-gasketjars.Theyaresoldin4-and5-litersizesandtheydon’tseemtogetKahmonthesurfacequiteasfrequentlyasmasonjarbatchesdo.Havingsaidthat,anyjarthatsealsshouldbeusedwithcaution.Althoughit’sarareissuewithkvass,whichdoesn’tbubblequiteasmuchasyeast-fermentedbeveragesdo,sealedjarscanexplodewhentoomuchpressurebuildsupfromtheCO2createdduringfermentation.So,ifyoudecidetouseasealingjarforbeveragefermentation,andespeciallyifit’sglass,beawareoftheexplosionriskandtakepreventiveandprotectivemeasures.HereareafewtricksIuse:•Neverfillagasket-sealingjarallthewaytothelid.Thatisthepathtoin-homekvasssprinklers.•Burp(akaopen)thejareveryfewdays.•Fermentforashorttime(3to5days)andthenmovetothefridgefor1to2weeksoflowandslowfermentation.

•Keepthejarinacooleroradoublepaperbaginsideofaplasticbag.

LETTUCEKVASSStudentsinmyfermentationclassesfrequentlyaskwhetherthereareanyvegetablesyoucan’tferment.Inanswer,Ipointtolettucekvass(afermentIinitiallydiscoveredthroughSandorEllixKatz’sbookTheArtofFermentation)asproofthat,ifyou’rewillingtobecreative,youcanfermentalmostanyvegetable.Lettuceisn’tthemostvigorousfermenterinmyexperience,sotheadditionoflotsofherbsandotherseasoningsiswhatreallymakesthispickledsipasuccess.

1headoficeberglettuce,quartered

1shallot(15g),peeledandslicedinhalf

1largebunchofdill,stemstrimmed

4juniperberries

1teaspoon(4g)mustardseed

1teaspoon(2g)peppercorns

1/2bunch(15g)ofmint2quarts(2L)filteredwater

Makesurethatthelettuceisfreshandthatanysoft,brown,ororangishpieceshavebeenremoved.

Placealltheseasoningsintoa1-gallon(4L)jarandaddthelettucehalves.Pourinthefilteredwateruntilthejarisfilledto2inches(5cm)belowtherim.Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2.

Letitfermentatroomtemperaturefor5to8days.Ifthelettucehasbeguntobrown,time’sup!

Straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.

Yield:2quarts(2L)

CABBAGEKVASSIhighlyrecommenddrinkingthesauerkrautjuicethatisleftinthejaronceyou’veeatenabatch.Thiscabbagekvassisabitofashortcuttothattasty,probioticjuiceandonethatwasinspiredbyatriptomyfavoriteEasternEuropeangrocerystore,NetCostMarket,innortheastPhilly.NetCosthasaninspiringpicklebarthatusuallyincludesavatofpickledcabbageliquid.Thisrecipeismyhomagetothat,butifyouwanttobemoreauthentic,addthreeorfourhotpeppersforaveryspicybatch.

1/2headofredcabbage(11/4pounds,or560g)1/2smallredonion(2ounces,or50g),peeledandhalved2clovesofgarlic,peeledandhalved

2tablespoons(14g)carawayseeds

31/2quarts(3.5L)filteredwater1to2teaspoons(6to12g)salt

Cutthecabbageintoquarters.

Placetheonion,garlic,andcarawayseedsintoa1-gallon(4L)jarandplacethecabbagepiecesontop.

Pourthefilteredwaterovertheingredientsuntilthejarisfullto2inches(5cm)belowtherimorfillallthewaytotherimandplacethejarinabowlforthedurationoffermentation.

Coveryourjar,ensurethatitcanventCO2,andletitfermentatroomtemperaturefor5to10days.

Strainliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.

Yield:31/2quarts(3.5L)

CELERYKVASSMyhusbandisakvasslover,andthismightbehisfavoriteofallthevegetablekvassesImake.Itcapturesallofthefreshgreennotesofthecelerybuthasnoneofthebitterness.Pouritovericeinahighballglassandgarnishwithasprigofthymeforanonalcoholiccocktailthatwillimpress.

Ingredients1bunchofcelery(11/4pounds,or560g)Three2-inch(5cm)sprigsoffreshthyme1/2teaspoon(1g)celeryseeds2bayleaves

1yellowcoreoflemongrass,splitlengthwise

1/4teaspooncayennepepper3quarts(3L)filteredwater

Rinsethecelerystalksthoroughlytoremoveanydirt.Trimtheends,butdonotremovetheleaves.Cuteachstalkintothirds.

Placealltheseasoningsintoa1-gallon(4L)jarandaddthecelery.Pourinthefilteredwater,fillingthejarto1to2inches(2.5to5cm)fromtherimorfillallthewaytotherimandplaceoverabowlforthedurationofthefermentationperiod.

Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2,andleavetofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to9days.

Straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.

Yield:3quarts(3L)

⊲CUCUMBERFENNELKVASSAlthoughfermentedvegetabledrinksmaynotbethepreferredoptionforladieswholunch,Ibelievethisisanoptionthatcouldtempteventhemostelegantandchoosyofthespa-goingset.Thefenneldominatesandisroundedoutbythefreshcucumbernotes.ThisisoneIhavenoproblemservingatasummerteaparty.

Ingredients1largecucumber1fennelbulb,withfronds

Peelof1/2anorange,nopith3quarts(3L)filteredwater

1teaspoon(6g)salt(optional)

Cutthecucumberinto1-inch(2.5cm)thickslices.Chopthefennelbulbintolargechunksandseparateeachfrondfromthebulb.Whenpeelingtheorange,cutstripsthatareaslongaspossible;avoidpithasitwillimpartanunpleasantlybitteraftertaste.Placethecucumber,fennel,andorangepeelina1-gallon(4L)jarandpourthefilteredwaterinuntilthejarisfullto2inches(5cm)belowtherimorfillallthewaytotherimandplaceinabowlforthedurationofthefermentationperiod.Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2,andleavetofermentatroomtemperaturefor5to10days.

Onceittastessufficientlyflavorfulandacidic,straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.

Yield:3quarts(3L)

MOROCCANCARROTKVASSWhenIwasakid,IsavedupmybabysittingmoneyandlobbiedmygenerousparentstoletmespendafewsummersinsouthwesternFrance.ThefirsttimemyFrenchhostfamilytookmetoaMoroccanrestaurant,mytastebudsdanced.Icouldnotbelievehowperfectlythesweetandsavoryflavorsplayedoffofeachother.Eversince,I’velovedcookingwiththesweetandsavoryseasoningsofMoroccancuisine.Makethiswithpurple-skinnedcarrotsforacolorthatresemblesthepink-orangesunsetsofMorocco,butorangecarrotsareafinesubstituteforflavor.

Ingredients15purplecarrots(2pounds,or900g)3wholestaranise

2cinnamonsticks

3inches(7.5cm)ofginger,cutinto1/4-inch(5mm)slices1tablespoon(6g)cuminseeds

10raisins

Peelof1smalllemon,nopith

Peelof1smalllime,nopith

Peelofhalfanorange,nopith

1to2teaspoons(6to12g)salt

Trimthecarrotsandcuttheminto2-inch(5cm)cylinders.

Addthestaranise,cinnamon,ginger,cumin,peppercorns,raisins,andcitruspeelstoa1-gallon(4L)jarandplacethecarrotsontop.Pourthefilteredwaterinuntilthejarisfullto2inches(5cm)belowtherimorfillallthewaytotherimandplaceinabowlforthedurationofthefermentationperiod.

Coveryourjar,makingsureitcanventCO2,andleavetofermentatroomtemperaturefor5daysto2weeks.

Onceittastessufficientlyflavorfulandacidic,straintheliquidintoacleanjarandchillbeforedrinking.

Yield:11cups(2.6L)

AlternativeApproachestoVegetableFermentation

Rememberallthoseruleswelaidoutinpartone?Well,youmayneedtopresspauseonthosewhileyouworkthroughthissection.Manyoftheimportantdetailsappliedinpreviouschapters(saltlevels,notpeeling,submersion,smallbatches)willbesetasideinoneormoreoftherecipesandtechniquesoutlinedhere.Getreadyforaglimpseintothewideworldoffermentsthatgowaybeyondsimplesaltandvegetablesinajar!

FermentinginCrocks

Crocksaregreatforpreservingalargerharvest(orfortakingadvantageofagreatbulkdealatthefarmers’market).Thebasicprinciplesofvegetablefermentationapplyequallytojarandcrockfermentation,butsizinguptocrocksdoesofferuniqueopportunitiesandchallenges.

ClassicCukes

WholeLeafCollardGreens

CollardWraps

WholeOnions

CrockKimchi

CornontheCob

SauerkrautSteak

TipsandGuidelinesMostofthegeneralprinciplesoffermentationlaidoutinpartoneapplytothe

Mostofthegeneralprinciplesoffermentationlaidoutinpartoneapplytotherecipesinthischapter,buttherearefewadditionalpointstotakeintoaccount.

ChoosetheRightCrockforYouTherearetwoprimarytypesofceramiccrocksavailableintheWest.Eachhasadvantagesanddisadvantagestoconsiderbeforepurchase.WATER-SEALEDCROCKS

Water-sealedcrocks,sometimesreferredtounderthebrandnameHarschcrocks,makeforaveryeasyferment.Theyaregenerallymoreexpensivethantheiropencrockcounterparts,buttheycomewithalidandoftenwithweightsthatcreatetheperfectfermentationbarrier.Noairentersthecrockoncethewater“seal”ispoured,butCO2createdduringfermentationeasilybubblesout.Batchesmadeinwater-sealedcrocksrarelyaccruealayerofKahmyeastduringfermentation.Theycanbesomewhatchallengingtocleanafterfermentation,dependingontheirsize.

Idealfor:Thiscrockisidealforfermenterswithadeepandabiding(thoughlet’sbehonest:illogical)fearofsurfacemoldsoryeasts;fermenterswhowanttosetitandforgetit;fermenterswhowanttocreatelargerbatchesoffavoritejarredferments.It’sperfectforSimplestSauerkraut(page76)orClassicCukes(page162).

Specialtip:Checkthemoataroundyourcrockaboutonceaweektomakesurethere’sstillwaterinthere.Ifitseemsabitlow,topitoffwithfreshwater.Ifthemoatdriesoutcompletely,thesealwillbebrokenandairwillbeallowedtoflowintoyourcrock.Openingthecrockalsoletsairin,soit’sbettertokeepthelidonuntiltheendoffermentationwhenusingawater-sealedcrock.OPENCROCKS

Opencrocksareusuallylessexpensivethanwater-sealedcrocksandtheirwide,cylindricalshapesmakeiteasytofitinandpositionavarietyoflargerpiecesandwholevegetables.Weightsandlidsoftenneedtobepurchasedseparatelyandcandramaticallyraisethecostofanopencrock.OpencrocksthatarenotcoveredwithafittedlidandleftundisturbedarepronetodevelopingalayerofKahmyeast,theharmlessyeastthatappearswhenafermentisexposedtotheair.Dependingontheirsize,opencrocksarequiteeasytoclean,sincetheirbasesandopeningsarethesamediameter.

Idealfor:Thiscrockisidealforfarmersandthosewithalargegarden.It’sperfectforfermentingwholevegetablerecipessuchasSauerkrautSteak(page

174)andwholeheadsofCrockKimchi(page170).

Specialtip:It’sbettertostartopencrockbatches,especiallywithwholevegetablesorlargerpieces,duringcoolerperiodstoavoidsurfaceyeasts.Evenduringnormalorcooltemperatureperiods,checkingthesurfaceofthecrockeveryfewdaysandskimmingoffanyKahmyeastthatmayhaveappearedonthesurfaceisagoodbet.Kahmisn’tharmful,butifmoldformsinathicklayer,itimpartsunpleasantflavorsandcancauseissueswithacidity,whichwouldbeproblematic.Ifyoudeveloptruemold(thatisn’tcolorful),it’snotnecessarilyareasontothrowoutthecontentsofyourcrock.Skimthemold,ladlesomebrineorvegfromasdeepinthecrockaspossible,anduseapHstriptotestacidity.IfthepHis4.0orbelow(asmeasuredwithastrip),youmaysafelyeatthevegetablesinthecrockiftheytastegood!

WeighYourSaltWhenfermentingincrocks,accuratesaltmeasurementsbecomesmoreimportant.

Whensaltingvegetablesforthejar,measuringratherthanweighingisatotallyreasonablechoice.Whilemeasuringmayresultinagramorthreeofdifferenceforajar,thelargerscaleofcrockfermentationmakesthese“small”variationsthatoccurbetweenmeasuringvs.weighingandusingonesalttypevs.anothermuchmorepronounced.Furthermore,inconsistentsaltlevelsforsmallerbatcheshavelowstakes.Ifyouusealittletoomuchortoolittleandyourpintofpicklesistoosaltyortoosoft,it’snotthatbigofaloss.Ifyou’vefilledacrockwith45pounds(20kg)ofcabbage,ontheotherhand,youmightbeabitmorepeevedifthatparticularbatchdoesn’tturnout.

Ifyou’veinvestedinacrock,investingasmallamountinadigitalgramscalemaywellbeworthitfortheaccuracyitprovides.Ifyouareanexperiencedfermenter,accustomedtosaltingtotaste,youcanabsolutelycontinuethatpracticeincrockfermentation.

UseWeightsFormostthingsyou’llputinyourcrock,aheavyweightisveryuseful.Ifyou’reselectinghouseholditemsorcraftingyourown,rememberthatmaterialsthatdon’tcorrode,getmoldy,orexpandwhenwetareyourbestoptions.Avoidwoodandmetalandmakesurethatyourweightfitscomfortablythroughthenarrowestpartofyourcrock.Thingsmovearoundduringfermentationandaweightthat’stoolargecouldpotentiallydamageyourcrock.

TanninsTanninsaddedtoabatchofpicklescanmakeallthedifferencebetweencrispyandfloppy.Thereareseveralsafesourcesoftanninsthatyoucanaddtoyourpicklesforcrispandcrunch.•Grapeleaves.Grapeleavesaremygo-tosourcefortannins.Theyareeasilyfoundinmostgrocerystores,andtheydonotimpartflavororbitterness.Theydotheworkofkeepingpicklescrispyquitewell.Ifbuyingpre-saltedleaves,soaktheminroomtemperaturewaterfirsttoleechoutsomeofthesalt.

•Tea.Blackteaisthebestchoicefromacrispnessstandpoint,butitalsoimpartsthemostflavor.Sometimesthat’saplus,butconsiderwhetherit’sagoodfitfortheparticularrecipe.

•Berryleaves(raspberry,blackberry,orstrawberry).RaspberryleavesarethebestberrytanninoptionI’vefound.Theyworkwonderfullybutarechallengingtofindifyoudon’tgrowyourownraspberries.

•Redwine.Wineworkswellinsmalldoses,butitshouldnotbeusedinquantitybecausethealcoholcanhaveanegativeimpactonlacticacidbacteria.Smalldosesarefine,butI’vehadthebestluckusingamaximumof1tablespoon(15ml)perpint(500ml)ofpickles.

•Hops.Hopsimpartflavorandabitoftheircharacteristicbitterness,buttheydohelpkeepveggiesfromsoftening.

•Rosehips.ThefruitoftheroseplantisknownforitshighvitaminCcontent,butitisalsoveryhighintannins.Itimpartsquiteabitofbitterness,soitisbestusedasatanninsourceoflastresortorinapicklewhereaddedbitternesscouldbeaplus.

FromCrocktoJarOnceacrockfermentisfinishedfermenting,thefunpartbegins—eatingit!Onlymaybeyouhavejusttwoorfourpeopleinyourfamily.Andevenifallofthosepeoplelovesauerkraut/pickledonions/kimchi,you’reunlikelytobeabletoworkthroughthecontentsofacrockwithinafewdays.Ifthat’sthecase,youhaveoptions,includinganycombinationofthefollowing:•Store

itinthecellar.Sadly,mostofusdon’thaverootcellarsandmanyofusdon’thavebasements.Evenforthosewhodo,crockscanbeunwieldy,andfullcrockscanbedownrightback-breaking(orimpossible)tocarry.Thisoptionworksbestforsmallcrocks.Fermentsinopencrockscanpickupsomemustybasementaromas,sowater-sealedcrocksareabetterchoiceforbasementstorage.Onceyou’veputyourcrockintothecoolerclimes,youcanremovesmallamountstostoreinthefridge(inajar)andconsume.Ifyourbasementstaysbelow60°F(15.6°C),consideraverylong,slowfermentationperiodinalargecrockthatstartsandendsdowninthebasement.•Transfertojar.Transferringtoajarforfridgestorageisagreatoption—providedyouhavethefridgespace.Withbrinedferments,useaforkorslottedspoontotransferthevegetablestooneormorelargejars,andthenusealadletoaddasufficientamountofbrinetoeachjarsothatthevegetablesarecovered.Closethejarandplaceinthefridge.Itisverylikelytherewillbeagoodamountofbrineleftinthecrock.

•Eatitfromthecrock.Eatingfermentsrightoutofthecrockmaywellbetheeasiestwaytoenjoycrock-fermentedfoods.Havingsaidthat,itdoeshaveitspitfalls.Everytimeyouopenyourcrockorremovetheweights,you’reexposingyourfermenttotheairandincreasingthechancethatyouwillendupwithsomesortofsurfaceactivity(moldoryeast)asaresult.Additionally,whenleftatroomtemperature,yourvegetableswillcontinuetoferment,becomingmoreacidicasthedays,weeks,ormonthspass.Ifyoudecidetogothisroute,keepthecrockinacoolplaceandbesuretoonlyusecleanutensilstopullediblesfromyourcrock(andnodoubledipping)!

It’sreallyamatteroffindingabalanceandfiguringoutwhatworksforyou.There’snowronganswer,andamixofmethodscanworkwonderfully.Tryjarringasmuchasyoucanreasonablystoreinthefridgeandgivetofriendswhilecontinuingtoeatsmallamountsfromthecrock.

⊲CLASSICCUKESThisishowIprefertomakecucumberpickles.AlthoughIrecommendmovingthemtothefridgeafterfermentationforbestresults,Icannottellalie:Ioftenleavemycrockfullo’picklesatroomtemperatureandjustfishthemout(withcleanutentsils!)asneeded,untilI’mdowntotheveryendofthebatch.Kahmforms,butotherwiseitworksjustfinethatway,probablybecausethesesign-of-summerpicklesneverlastlong.Ifthisisyourfirstcrockbatch,takethefridgeroute.Butonceyou’vegotthehangofit,they’regreatascrocksnacks.

IngredientsPergallon(3.8L)ofcrockspace:4to7pounds(1.8to3.2kg)Kirbyorpicklingcucumbers,dependingonthesizeofthecucumbers4bulbsof

garlic

1largeonion,peeledandquartered

10dillheadsor3largebunchesoffreshdill

3/4cup(135g)mustardseeds1cup(70g)packedgrapeleaves(seepage160Tannins,forotheroptions)6tablespoons(110g)koshersalt

Trimthethinnestpossiblelayerfromeachendofthecucumbers,andthenplacetheminalargebowloficewater.Whilethecukesaresoaking,peelthegarlic.Thisisalotofgarlic,sodon’tworryaboutgettingeverylittlepaperypieceofpeeloff.

Placethegarlic,onion,dill,mustardseeds,andgrapeleavesinthecrock.Drainthecucumbersandpackthemintothecrock,leavingabout4inches(10cm)atthetopofthecrockfortheweights.Applytheweights.

Stirthesaltintothewateruntildissolvedandthenpourthebrineintothecrock,coveringthecukeswith1inch(2.5cm)ofbrine.Coverthecrock.

Allowtofermentfor3to7days.Iftheseasoningsdon’tseemfullyinfused,packthepicklesintojars,pourinthebrineandseasoningsfromthecrock,andmovethemtoacoolerplacelikethecellarorrefrigerator.Allowthemtoinfuse

movethemtoacoolerplacelikethecellarorrefrigerator.Allowthemtoinfuseforanadditional7to10daysbeforeenjoying.Or,tasteoneadayuntilthey’rejustrightandthenhaveapicklefeast.

Yield:1gallon(3.8L)

Youmayneedmoreorlessbrinedependingonyourcrockandvegetables.Useaconcentrationof11/2tablespoons(27g)koshersaltper2cups(470ml)filteredwaterfor6%brine.

WHOLELEAFCOLLARDGREENSThisistherare,quickcrockferment.Fermentedcollardgreenstastesoverydelicious,butiftheyfermentfortoolong,theyendupmushyandrotted.Theseleavesmakeawesome,naturallygluten-freewrapsgreatforpaleosandvegansalike.Theyaresuperflavorfulbutalsosalty,sochoosewrapingredientsthataresalt-freeorlowsalt.

IngredientsPergallon(3.8L)ofcrockspace:

2to3bunchesofcollardgreens(2to3pounds,or900to1350g),dependingonthesizeoftheleaves1/4cup(64g)koshersalt2quarts(2L)filteredwater

Cutoffthepartofthestemsthatprotrudebelowtheleaf,reservingthemforanotheruse(theypicklenicelyontheirown).Carefullywashthecollardleavesandremoveanyblemishedleavesandcutoutanywet,mushy,darkgreenspots.Reserve2leavesfortoppingthecrock.

Laytheleavesflatontopofeachotheranddividetheminto2piles.Looselyrollthepilesuplikerugsandstandthemontheirsidesinthecrock.Ifyouhavetroublerollingtheleaves,youcanshaveabitoffthebackofthestemstomaketheleavesmoreflexible.Donotoverpackthecrock.Overpackingcandamagetheleaves,makingindividualleavesdifficulttoremovefromthecrockandresultinginamushyferment.

Stirthesaltintothewateruntildissolvedandthenpourthebrineoverthecollards.Placethereservedcollardleavesontop,submergingtheminthebrineaswell.Applyalightweight,suchasasmallbowlorplate,andcoverthecrock.Standardcrockweightswillcompressthecollardstoomuch,resultinginsomemushyspots.

Allowtoferment4to5daysatroomtemperature.Enjoythecollardssoonafterfermentationorstoreintherefrigerator,coveredinbrinefromthecrock(alarger,rectangularfoodstoragecontainerwithatight-fittinglidworkswellforthis)forupto3days.Patdrybeforeusing.

Yield:Approximately25collardleaves

•Lookforunblemishedleavesthatareroughlythesamesize.

•Youmayneedmoreorlessbrinedependingonyourcrockandvegetables.Useaconcentrationof1tablespoon(16g)koshersaltper2cups(470ml)filteredwaterfora3.5%brine.

AskaProfessionalPotterIaskedJeremyOgusky,theBoston-basedpotterbehindclaycrocks.comandtheBostonFermentationFestival,afewquestionsabouthowbesttofindandcareforcrocks.Hesharesabitofhisknowledgebelow.

ONUSINGOLDERCROCKSSafetyfirst.LeadisunlikelytobeanissueinU.S.potterymadeinthelast100years;however,somepotteryfromMexicomaycontainglazesthatareunsafeforfooduse.Totesttheviabilityofglazeonacrockofunknownorigins,leavealemonsliceorsomedistilledwhitevinegarinthecrockovernight.Ifthereisachangeinthecolororthetextureoftheglaze,itisreactiveandthecrockisnotsuitableforfermentation.Youshouldalsorunyourhandalongthecrocktoseeiftheglazeissmooth.Iftheglazelooksorfeelsrough,thatcrockisn’tagreatchoice.Roughglazecouldindicatethepresenceofmicroscopicpocketswheremicrobescansetupshopandrefusetoleave,causingunwantedfunkinessinyourfinishedfermentsovertime.

ONWHATTOLOOKFORINANEWCROCKLookforathickercrock.Itwillprovidebetterinsulation,whichhelpsregulatetemperature.Clayisanonreactiveandrelativelycheapmaterialthatdoesagreatjobofinsulating—that’sonegoodreasonit’sbeenusedtomakefermentingvesselsforthousandsofyears.

ONFUNCTIONANDFORMWhetherbuyingneworused,observetheinteriorandexteriorofthecrock.Doyouseeanycracks?Whenyourunyourhandoverthecrock,doyoufeel

Doyouseeanycracks?Whenyourunyourhandoverthecrock,doyoufeelanycracksordivots?Ifso,it’snotagreatchoice.

Totestforleaks,putsomewaterinit;itmustbewatertight.Watercouldleakifthestonewarehasacrack.Earthenwarecrocks,forinstance,aren’tsuitableforvegetablefermentationbecausetheyarenotwatertight.

ONTERMINOLOGYOncommerciallyproducedcrocks,you’llseethewords“High-Firedat×degreestovitrification.”Vitrificationmeanstheclayitselfhasgonethroughachemicaltransformationsothatitisnolongerporous.Aporouscrockcouldslowlyloseliquidovertimeandmightharborbacteriaevenafterthoroughcleaning.

Aglazeisanexteriorsurfacethatisbondedtoclayduringfiring.Glazeservesthedualpurposeofbeautifyingandprotectingtheclay.

ONCLEANINGCROCKSCrocksareeasytoclean.Somecrocksaredishwashersafe(checkyourmanualfirst),butahandwashwithsoapandwaterisusuallybest.Noscouringisrequired.

Iftherewasmoldinyourcrock,itmaybeworthdoingawipedownoftheinteriorofthecrockwitha50percentbleachsolutionandthenrinsingthoroughlybeforethenextuse.

FINALTHOUGHTSAlthoughcrocksaregreatforfermenting,youdon’tneedtobuyanyspecializedequipmenttofermentvegetables.Youdon’tevenneedacrocktogetstarted.Startfermentingwithwhateveryouhaveaccesstoandupgradetoacrockwhenitmakessenseforyou.

⊲COLLARDWRAPSThissimple,gluten-free,paleo-friendlywrapiswhatIeatforlunchmostdays.It’sloadedwithproteinandgoodfatsanddefinitelygivesmetonsofenergy.Iusedtohavethat2p.m.slump,butthisveggie-poweredlunchpushesmerightthroughtheafternoonyawns.Veganscansubstituteunsalted,cookedtempehand/orhummusforegg,asIoftendo.

Ingredients1avocado2hard-boiledeggs

1/2bellpepper

2WholeLeafCollardGreens(page164)

3handfulsarugulaorotherspicysaladmix

2tablespoons(30ml)ThousandIslandDressing(page137,optional)Peeltheavocadoandeggs.Inasmallbowl,mashtheavocadowithafork.Cuttheeggintothinroundsandthebellpepperintothinstrips.Laythecollardsflatonaplate.Scoophalfofthemashedavocadointothemiddleofeachcollardleaf.

Dividethearugulaevenlybetweenthecollards.Pressitintotheavocadoabitandtopwiththepepperslices.Layerontheeggslicesanddrizzlewiththedressing,ifusing.

Foldtheouteredgesofeachsideoftheleafintothecenterandthendothesamewiththetopandbottomedges.Eatwithyourhands.

Yield:2wraps

⊲WHOLEONIONSWholepickledonionsaregoodeatin’:theycanbestuffed,slicedthintotopsalads,or,ifyouwanttofreaksomeoneout,eatenwholelikeanapple.Atonemonthoffermentation,smallonionswillhaveakillerflavor—atruebalancebetweensweetandsour.Thelongertheyferment,themoresourtheybecome.Ifyou’relookingtocookthem,slicethinandsautéforeffortlesslycrispyrings.

IngredientsPer2.6gallons(10L)ofcrockspace:12pounds(5.4kg)smallishonions(4to6ounces,or115to170geach)

1/2cup(88g)mustardseeds1/4cup(20g)corianderseeds3cinnamonsticks

7bayleaves

5allspiceberries

5juniperberries

3cinnamonsticks

3wholestaranise

3tablespoons(15g)peppercorns

2tablespoon(4g)dillseeds

2clovesofgarlic

1cupplus11/2teaspoons(330g)koshersalt53/4quarts(5.8L)filteredwaterPeeltheonions.Placeallthespicesandthegarlicintothecrock.

Fittheonionsintothecrock,startingwiththelargestonionsandendingwiththesmallest.Whenalltheonionsareinthecrock,placetheweightsontop.Thereshouldbesufficientspaceforyourweightstofitontopwith2inches(5cm)ofheadspace.Youmayneedtomaneuvertheonionssothateverythingfits.

Stirthesaltintothewateruntildissolved.Pourthebrineintothecrock.Inawater-sealedcrock,thereshouldbeabrinelayerofa1/2to1inch(1.5to2.5cm)abovetheonions.Ifyou’reworkinginanopencrock,youwillwanta2-inch(5cm)brinelayerifpossiblebecauseevaporationwillreducebrineduringfermentation.Ifthecrockistoofulltoallowfora2-inch(5cm)brinelayer,checkeveryweekandtopoffthebrineifnecessary.

Allowtofermentatroomtemperaturefor1to3months.

Oncetheonionsareassourasyou’dlike,youcanmovethemalltojarsandputthemincoldstorage(cellarorfridge).

Yield:2gallons(7.6L)

Theamountofbrinewillvarybasedonthesizeofyouronions;1to11/2gallons(3.8to5.7L)isaverage.Useaconcentrationof2teaspoons(14g)koshersaltper1cup(235ml)filteredwaterfora6%brine.

CROCKKIMCHIILOVEcrockkimchi.Ihavenoscience-basedexplanation,buttome,italwaystastesbetterfromthecrockthanfromthejar.Plus,wholeheadsofkimchimakeknockoutfoodgiftsforthepepperheadinyourcircle.Justputitinaprettycontainerandtieitupwithabow.Sincekimchiisnotusuallypronetosurfaceyeastissues,Itendtopulloneheadatatimefromthecrock,asneeded,andstoretheremainingheadsatroomtemperature,inthecrock.Irevelintheflavorandtexturedifferencesthathappenovertime.

IngredientsPer3gallons(11.4L)ofcrockspace:6to8smallheadsnapacabbage(12pounds,or5.5kg)

3/4cup(225g)koshersalt4quartsand3cups(4.5L)filteredwater,divided

2largedaikon(4pounds,or1.8kg),greensremoved

2largebunchesofKoreanchives(1pound,or450g),trimmed

1wholegingerrhizome,thoroughlywashedandtrimmed(leftunpeeled)

2bulbsofgarlic,peeled

2smallonions,peeled

1/2cup(120ml)fishsauce1/4cup(32g)drainedsaltedshrimp(saewoojuht)41/2cups(540g)gochugaruSoakthenapacabbageorrinsethoroughlyincoolwatertoremoveanydirtordebristrappedwithinitsleaves.Packthecabbagesintoverylargebowlsorhotelpans.Mixthesaltinto4quarts(3.8L)ofthewaterandstiruntilthesaltisdissolved.Pourthebrineoverthecabbagesandtopthemwithaplatetokeepthemunderthebrine.Allowtosoakfor48hoursuntiltheheadsarelimpandheavy.

Aftersoaking,thoroughlydrainthecabbage,beingcarefultosupporttheheadssothattheydonotbreakapart.Patthemdry.Wetheadsofnapacabbagewillresultinaverywet,brinedkimchi.

Inasaucepan,heat2cups(470ml)ofthewaterovermedium-highheat.Whiskthericeflourintotheremaining1cup(235ml)wateruntilrelativelysmooth.Whenthewaterinthepanreachesaboil,pourthericeslurryin,whiskingconstantly.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixturethickens,about1minute.Removefromtheheatandmovetotherefrigeratortocooltoroomtemperatureandthickenfurther.

Juliennethedaikonandplaceinabowl.Chopthechivesinto2-inch(5cm)long

Juliennethedaikonandplaceinabowl.Chopthechivesinto2-inch(5cm)longpiecesandaddthemtothebowlwiththedaikon.Coarselychoptheunpeeledgingerandthepeeledgarlicandonionsandplaceintothebowlofafoodprocessoralongwiththefishsauce,shrimp,andgochugaruandthecooledricemixture.Youmayneedtoworkinbatches,dependingonthesizeofyourfoodprocessor.Blendintoasmoothpaste,scrapingdownthesidesasnecessary.

Putonyourkimchigloves.Thoroughlymixallbut1cup(225g)ofthespicepasteinwiththedaikonandchives.

Holdthebaseofaheadofcabbageinyournondominanthandandallowtheleavestofallopentothesideslikeaflower.Gentlypushapartthecenterofthecoreandrubthedaikonmixallovertheinsideandoutsidesoftheleaves.Continuedoingthiswitheachlayerofcabbageleaves,closingthembackuponcethereisabitofmixinthere.Thiswilladdsomebulktoyoursoftenedheadofcabbage.Repeatwitheachhead.Beforeplacingeachheadintothecrock,useyourhandtoslatherabitofthereserved1cup(225g)ofspicepasteovertheexteriorcabbageleaves.

Carefullyplaceeachcabbageheadflatintothecrock.Workcarefullytofittheheadstogetheruntiltheyaremostlyflatpacked,keepingasmuchofthevegetablemixpackedinsideaspossible.Scrapetheremainingspicepasteanddaikonmixoutofthebowlandspreaditoverthetopofthelayeredcabbages.Applytheweightandcoverthecrock.Moreliquidwillreleasefromthecabbagesandtheywillsubmerge.

Fermentfor1to2weeksatroomtemperature.Thisisoneyoucandefinitelyeatfromthecrock.Alwaysremovekimchiwithcleanhandsandutensils.

Yield:6to8headsofkimchi

Theamountofbrineneededwillvarybasedonthesizeofthecabbagesandthesizeofthevesselyouchooseforbrining.Useaconcentrationof2teaspoons(14g)koshersaltper1cup(235ml)filteredwaterfora6%brine.

⊲CORNONTHECOBSomecallthesesweetandsourcorncobsbecausesomeofthecornsweetnessremainsafterfermentation,butthedistinctivesourflavorsoffermentationarealsoprominent.Thebestthingaboutthesecobsisthatyoucaneatthemstraightfromthecrock,uncooked,onahotsummernight.

IngredientsPergallon(3.8L)ofcrockspace:10thincobsofcorn,shuckedandrinsed

Rinsethecobs,removinganyremainingsilk.Standwholecobsonendinthecrock.Theyshouldfitcloselytogether,with3to4inches(7.5to10cm)ofspaceatthetopofthecrock.Stirthesaltintothewateruntildissolvedandthenpourthebrineoverthecobsuntiltheyarejustcovered.Placeweightsoncornandcovercrock.Allowtofermentfor1to2weeks.Thecornwillbemoresourandlesssweetat2weeks.

Thecobswillkeepinthefridgeforaweekormore.

Yield:10cobsofcorn

Theamountofbrinemayvarybasedonthesizeofyourcorncobs.Useaconcentrationof1tablespoon(18g)koshersaltper2cups(470ml)filteredwaterfora4%brine.

⊲SAUERKRAUTSTEAKInaPolishandUkrainian-rootedAmericanfamily,it’sprettylikelythatyouhavesomeseriouscabbagetraditions.Inmyfamily,it’sgwumpki(alsocalledstuffedcabbage).Ifmydaddidn’tkeeptohispre–ChristmasEvetraditionofboilingcabbageandrollinggwumpkiuntil2or3a.m.,Idon’tthinkmyfamilywouldrecognizethenextnightasChristmasEve.Inmypickle-relatedeffortstoreconnecttomyheritage,I’vecomeacrosssomanywaysofpicklingcabbage.I’veprobablytastedhundredsofversionsbeforemakingthisonemynewcabbagetradition.Ilovetoimaginemyownancestorspoppingacrockofthisopenduringthecold,gray,Ukrainianwintertodiscoverthebrightestburstofcolorandflavor.

IngredientsPer3gallons(11.4L)ofcrockspace:5headsredcabbage(about13pounds,or6kg)

1bulbofgarlic,peeled

1/4cup(27g)carawayseeds1bunchofdill

1redonion,thicklysliced

8small,driedThaichilepeppers(optional)

5bayleaves

5juniperberries

11/3cups(245g)koshersalt11/2gallons(5.7L)filteredwaterRinsethecabbagesandremoveandsetasideanyundesirableouterleaves.Cutthecabbagesinhalf.

Placethegarlic,caraway,dill,onion,chiles,bayleaves,andjuniperberriesintothecrockandbegintheprocessoffittinginthecabbagehalves.Don’tbeafraidtomaneuver.Leave4inches(10cm)atthetopofthecrock.Ifyoucan’tgetthehalvestofit,orifthey’rejustabittoohighinthecrock,remove1or2halvesandcuttheminhalf.Cabbagequarterscanbefitinabitmoreeasilythanhalves.Applythecrockweights.

Stirthesaltintothewateruntildissolvedandthenpourthebrineintothecrockuntilthereisa1-inch(2.5cm)brinelayerabovethecabbage.

Fermentfor2to5months.Serveasthickslices.

Yield:5headsofcabbage

Thisrecipeisintendedfora3-gallon(11.4-liter)crock,soyoumayneedmoreorlessbrinedependingonthesizeofyourcabbageandtheshapeofyourcrock.Useaconcentrationof2teaspoons(11g)koshersaltper1cup(235ml)filteredwaterfora4.5%brine.

No~Salt~AddedFerments

Throughoutthisbook,you’vereadabouttheimportantrolesaltplaysinvegetablefermentation.Butsaltisn’tactuallynecessaryforsafeandsuccessfulvegetablefermentation.Therearecommonferments,bothcontemporaryandtraditional,thatdonotinvolvetheuseofanyaddedsalt.

Therearegoodreasonstousesaltforvegetablefermentation,however.Saltisapowerfulpreservative,sosaltedvegetablefermentswilllastlonger.Saltprovidestheessentialelementsforacrispypickle,too.Somedangerousbacteriaarehalophobic(salt-fearing),whilelacticacidbacteriadojustfinewithevenaheartydoseofsaltandusingevenasmallamountofsaltgivesthegoodguysanadvantageoverthebadduringfermentation.ButsinceitisultimatelythecreationoflacticacidandtheresultinglowpHthatmakesfermentssafetoconsume,youcanabsolutelyfermentsafelywithoutsalt.

CeleriacBeetKraut

WhiteBeanSauerkrautDip

HealingBurdockTurmericPickles

SpicedGreenBeans

EarlGreyFennelBeets

TanninTea

SenchaDaikonPickles

BalancedBroth

Broth-PickledKohlrabi

TipsandGuidelinesThetechniquesdetailedhererelyonfoodsandliquidsthatarenaturallyhighintanninstokeepvegetablescrisp,aswellasvegetablesthatareabithigherinnaturalsalt(butstillsignificantlyhigherinKCl[potassium]thanNaCl[sodium]).Tea,forinstance,ishighintannins,whilecoconutwaterandBalancedBroth(page184)arenaturallyrichinsalts.Thetechniquesinthischaptermaybeappliedtoothervegetablesorotherrecipesinthisbook,buthardervegetables(radishes,beets,turnips,carrots,etc.)willbemuchbetterchoicesforno-salt-addedfermentationthansofterones(cucumbers,bellpeppers,orcollardgreens).

UsingTeaTeaisrichintannins,aningredientthatisoftenusedtomakesoftervegetablesstaycrispyduringfermentation.Sincethebiggesttasteissuewithsaltlesspicklesisthelackofcrispness,teadefinitelymakesagreatchoice.Feelfreetouseyourfavoritevarietyoftea,butforbestresults,chooseateathatisfreeofpreservativesandmaltodextrin.Theteaworksasbothaflavoringagentandasourceoftanninstopickupsomeoftheslackthatoccurswhensaltisabsent,sohavefuntryingdifferentteastomatch.TheEarlGreyFennelBeets(page181)inthischapterareafavoriteofbothsalt-freeandsalt-lovingfermenterswho’velearnedfromme.

UsingBrothThisspecialhomemadebroth(BalancedBroth,page184)ismadewithvegetablesthathaveanaturallyhighsaltcontent.Itisanaturalwaytomakevegetablesextratastyandabitlesssoftthantheywouldbeifjustfermentedinwater.Thevegetablesusedarehighsodiumbutmuchhigherinpotassium,whichhasabalancingeffectonsodiumforthoseconcernedaboutbloodpressure.

UsingCoconutWaterCoconutwaterhasbeenascribedmanymiracle,healingpowers.Ican’tspeaktothose,butIcantellyouthatitmakesagreatfermentingliquid.Fermentsmadewithcoconutwaterbubblealotandhaveawonderful,distinctiveflavor.

withcoconutwaterbubblealotandhaveawonderful,distinctiveflavor.

CELERIACBEETKRAUTIspentmanyamonthattemptingsalt-freesauerkrautwithverylittlesuccess.Astraight-uppileofmushwastheresultofalmosteverytrial.BeetsandceleriacdothebestjobofalltheelementsI’vefoundatkeepingkrautcrisp,butdon’texpectthetextureofasaltedkraut.

1/2pound(225g)cabbage,cutinto1/4-inch(5mm)shreds

1/4cup(60g)peeled,gratedceleryroot

1/4cup(56g)thinlysliced,quarteredbeets

Filteredwater,fortoppingoff

Combinethecabbage,celeryroot,andbeetsinalargebowl.Squeezeandsqueezeuntilyouseesomejuiceappear.Youwillnotseepuddlesofliquidasyoudowithsaltedsauerkraut,andthetextureofthecabbagewillnotchangedramatically.

Packthevegetablesintoapint(500ml)jar,pressingthemdownasbestyoucan.Topwithfilteredwater.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthevegetablesdownandcoveryourjar.

Fermentfor1weekorlongerifthey’restillcrispatthatpoint.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Thisdoesn’tstaycrispverylong,soplantoeatitwithinacoupleofweeks.Ifitgetstoosoft,puréeandenjoyasaspreadordip.

Yield:1pint(450g)

WHITEBEANSAUERKRAUTDIPOneofthedownsidestosalt-freekrautisthetexture.Itjustdoesn’tgetthatcrisp.I’vealwaysbeenoneforlookingonthebrightside,somytrickforsoftkrautistofindadishwheresoftisdesirable.Enterthisdip.Betweentheacidfromthekrautandthegeneroususeofherbs,youwon’tmissthesaltonebit.

3/4cup(180g)CeleriacBeetKrautoryourfavoritesalt-freesauerkraut

1/2cup(90g)freshcookedor(131g)canned,salt-freecannellinibeans

11/2teaspoons(1g)driedsageleaves

1/2teaspoon(0.5g)driedthyme

Drainthesauerkrautwellandrinseanddrainthebeans.Putalltheingredientsinthefoodprocessorandprocessuntilsmooth,about3minutes.

Yield:1cup(300g)

•Ifyoueatsalt,feelfreetotrythiswithasaltysauerkraut!

•Servewithpitachipsorcrudités.

HEALINGBURDOCKTURMERICPICKLESIhavesufferedfromeczemasincethedayIwasborn.ThedoctoractuallytoldmymominthedeliveryroomthatIwouldneverhaveacnebecauseofit,whichjustgoestoshowhowpoorlyautoimmuneissueswereunderstoodatthetime!Istilldogetoccasionalflare-ups,andwhenIdo,Iliketohaveabitofthisanti-inflammatorypickleonhandtohelpmeout.Burdockisbelievedtohelpspecificallywitheczema,andturmericisanall-purposegoodguyforyouranti-inflammatoryneeds.Combined,theytastegreatandgiveaid.

Ingredients14ounces(390g)burdockroot

2ounces(55g)turmericroot

2cups(470ml)coconutwater

Cuttheburdockandturmericrootsinto1/4-inch(5mm)thickcoins.Placebothinaquart(1L)jarandpourthecoconutwateroveruntiltheyarejustcovered.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthevegetablesdownandcoveryourjar.Coconutwaterfermentstendtobubblevigorously,soleaveatleastaninch(2.5cm)ofspacebetweenthesurfaceoftheliquidandtherimofthejarandkeepyourjarstoredonaplateoranoldkitchentowelduringfermentation.

Fermentfor5daysto2weeks.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.

Yield:1quart(900g)

Turmericstainsarevirtuallyimpossibletogetout(justaskmywoodcountertops),sobesuretoputturmericstraightinthejarandavoidtouchinganythingelseuntilyou’vewashedyourhands.

SPICEDGREENBEANSCoconutwaterfermentsareloadsoffun.Theybubblealot,andtheyhaveadistinctiveflavorthatcandefinitelybehabit-forming.Liketheothersalt-freemethodsfoundinthischapter,usingcoconutwatertofermentdoesn’tfeellikeacompromise,butlikeanew,fermentyadventure.Coconutwaterfermentswilldefinitelyendupabitmoresourthanbrineferments.

1inch(2.5cm)ofginger,unpeeledandsliced

1cinnamonstick

1allspiceberry

1/2teaspoon(0.5g)redpepperflakes

1/2pound(225g)greenbeans,endstrimmed

1cup(235ml)coconutwater

Placeallthespicesinapint(500ml)jar.Gentlyfillthejarwithgreenbeans.Don’tpackthemtootightly,asbruisedbeansmakeforsoftpickles.Thebeansshouldreachabout1inch(2.5cm)belowtherimofthejar.Pourthecoconutwateroverthebeansuntiltheyarejustcovered.

Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthevegetablesdownandcoveryourjar.Coconutwaterfermentstendtobubblevigorously,sokeepyourjaronaplateoranoldkitchentowelduringfermentation.

Fermentatroomtemperaturefor5to10days.By10days,thegreenbeanswillbesofteningabit.

Yield:1pint(450g)

EARLGREYFENNELBEETSWhenitcomestotea,Iusedtobeveryboring.IlovedthecitrusytangofEarlGrey,andIwoulddrinkalmostnothingelse.ThenIbecamefriendswithteaexpertAlexisSiemons,whoopenedmyeyestothemanyshadesofteathatI’dbeenmissing.IstillloveEarlGrey,though,soItookinspirationfromAlexisandstartedcookingwithit.

1beet(1/2pound,or225g),trimmed,greensremoved

1ounce(28g)thinlyslicedfennelbulb

3/4cup(180ml)cold-brewedEarlGreytea(page182)

Slicetheunpeeledbeetsinto1/2-inch(1.5cm)slicesandplaceinapint(500ml)jar(cuttheslicesinhalf,ifnecessary,tofitthemin).Slidethepiecesoffennelbulbinaroundthesides.Pourtheteaoverthebeetsuntiltheyarejustcovered,leaving1inch(2.5cm)ofspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthevegetablesdownandcoveryourjar.

Fermentfor1weekorlongerifthey’restillcrispatthatpoint.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.Thesedon’tlastaslongassaltedpickles,soplantoeatwithinacoupleofweeks.

Yield:1pint(450g)

TANNINTEAAfewyearsback,Ifinallyrealizedthatcoldbrewingteawasthewaytoaperfectsummercup.Neverheatingthetealeavesmeansnevertakingabittersip.Theflavorsoftheteadominatethebitternotes,andthishasmademealifelongconvert.Brewingcoldisasimpleprocessthatrequiresabitmoreteathanbrewinghot.

1quart(940ml)filteredwater,atroomtemperature

5teabagsor4teaspoons(8g)loosegreenorblacktea,anyvariety

Pourthewaterintoaquart(1L)jarandaddthetea.Closethejarandallowtosoakatroomtemperatureorinthefridgefor8to12hoursandupto24hours.

Removetheteabagsorstrainouttheloosetea.

Storetheteainthefridgeandbringbacktoroomtemperaturebeforeusingforfermentation.Usewithinaweek.

Yield:1quart(1L)

⊲SENCHADAIKONPICKLESAlovelyJapanesegreenteapairedwithalovelyJapaneseradishisallittakestomakethissimple,crispy,anddelicatelyflavoredpickle.Theflavoroftheteahereisquitesubtle,andthecold-brewingprocessensuresthatthereisnobitterness.Thesepicklesareverysour,butalsoveryfreshandcleantasting.Servealongsideabowlofwarmingmisosoup.

1smalldaikon(1/2pound,or225g)

3/4cup(175ml)cold-brewedsenchagreentea

Trimthedaikonandcutintostripsthatare1/2inch(1.5cm)wideand3to4inches(7.5to10cm)long.Standthemonendinapint(500ml)jarandpourtheteaoverthetopuntilthedaikoniscoveredandthereisabout1inch(2.5cm)ofspacebetweenthebrineandtherimofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthevegetablesdownandcoveryourjar.

Fermentatroomtemperaturefor5to7days.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.

Yield:1pint(450g)

BALANCEDBROTHMyfriendBethhasneverlovedtocook,butshedidintroducemetotheconceptofdrinkingbroth.It’sasimplerecipe,andit’ssavory,warming,andhealthfultohaveonhandinthecoldermonths.TheversionofthebrothImakehasagreat,naturalbalanceofpotassiumandsodium,whichmakesitidealforsalt-freefermenting.

6carrots

3beets,trimmed

1smallceleryroot,peeled

1smallleek,choppedandsoakedtoremovegrit

1bunchofcelery,leaveson

Washandchopallthevegetablesintolargechunksandplacethemina6-quart(6L)pot.Pourthewaterintothepotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Cover,reducetheheat,andallowtosimmerfor1hour.Transfertothefridgetocoolbeforeusingforfermentation.Youcanmakethisupto5daysinadvance.

Yield:3quarts(3L)

⊲BROTH-PICKLEDKOHLRABIKohlrabilookslikeacreaturefromafarawayplanet,butitsflavorandtexturearesofamiliar.Itsbrassicacousinsincludeotherwonderfulfermenterslikecabbageandcauliflower.Alongwithradishes,turnips,rutabaga,andbeets,itmakesagreatoptionforbrothpicklesbecauseithasatexturethatstayscrispy,evenwithoutanoverabundanceofsalt.

1kohlrabiroot,trimmedandwashed

1cup(235ml)BalancedBroth

Chopthekohlrabiinto1/4-to1/2-inch(5mmto1.5cm)sticks.Packthepiecesintoapint(500ml)jarandaddthebrothuntilthekohlrabiisjustcovered.Thereshouldbeabout1inch(2.5cm)ofheadspaceatthetopofthejar.Usingyourpreferredmethod(seepages23to28),weightthevegetablesdownandcoveryourjar.

Fermentfor7to10daysorlongerifthey’restillcrispatthatpoint.Removetheweight,securethelid,andplacethejarinthefridge.

Yield:1pint(450g)

SafelySalt-FreeThetrickstoexcellentsalt-freefermentsaretopaycloseattentiontosmellandappearanceandtofindareliablewaytotestpH.Problemsthatveryseldomoccurinsaltedvegetablefermentsdooccurmorefrequentlyinsalt-freefermentation.Offsmells,reminiscentofcheese(especiallySwisscheese)androtteneggsshouldbetakenveryseriously.Theycouldindicateanunwantedsecondaryfermentation,andbatcheswiththosesmellsshouldbediscardedandnottasted.Salt-freebatchesaremorepronetocolorfulmolds,andthosebatchesshouldalsobediscarded.Thesafestbetinsalt-freefermentationistouseapHmetertotesttheacidityofthefinishedproductbeforeyoueatit.IfthepHreadsbelow4.0onapHmeterorteststrip,thefermentissafetoeat.

Formanypeople,itseemsthattheactualissuewithsaltisthelargeamounthiddeninhighlyprocessedfoods,andthatabitofsaltaddedto

amounthiddeninhighlyprocessedfoods,andthatabitofsaltaddedtohomemadefoods,likepicklesorkraut,isn’treallyaproblem.Butifyouhavedecidedtoeliminatedietarysaltforwhateverreason,theserecipesareforyou.Evenifyoudon’tavoidsalt,themethodsoutlinedinthissectionmakegreat-tastingpicklesthateveryonecanenjoy.

Tsukemono,SunPickles,andOtherPathstoCulturedVegetables

Therecipesinthischapterofferentirelydifferentwaystofermentandculturevegetables.Fewofthemethodsusedforinparttwowillberelevantwhenyou’rebuildingculturingbeds,likethemisodokoornukadoko.Likewise,yeastfermentation/GarlicHoney(page194)hastotallydifferentrulesthanbacterialfermentation.Andtheall-importantsubmersion?It’snotrequiredwhenmakingHariMirchAchaar(page197).

Eachtypeoffermentationtoucheduponhererightlyboastsabevyofbooksandarticlesdevotedtoitalone.Thisgoalofthischapteristoofferyouawaytolookthroughthetelescopeanddiscoverafewlittlecornersofthefermentationuniversethatmayleadyoutodeeperexploration.

BuildingaMisodoko

MisoRhubarb

MisoSunchokes

BuildingaNukadoko

NukaCukesandRadishes

GarlicHoney

HariMirchAchaar(IndianHotPepperPickle)

CarrotCardamomSunPickle

CulturingandMaking“Quick”JapanesePicklesTheJapanesepicklingtradition,whichhasarichhistoryandinvolvesmanydifferentstyles(manyofwhichdonotinvolvefermentation),isascloseaswe,thefermenters,getto“quickpickles.”Letmebeclear—thepicklingitselfisquickbutthemethodswe’recoveringhereinvolvemakingabedforyourpicklestoliein.Thebuildingofthebedisthekey(especiallyforNukadoko,page191),andthatsometimesrequirescarethatgoeswellbeyondwhatneedstobedoneforthesimplepicklesinearlierchapters,buttheresultsarewonderfullyunique.

⊲BUILDINGAMISODOKOMakingmiso-culturedpickles(misozuke)isextremelyeasyandtheprocessisquickbyanyone’sstandards(notjustafermenter’s).Anyflavorsyouaddtothepicklingbedwillbeabsorbedintothepickles,sokeepthatinmindifculturingonions,garlic,orhotpeppers.Thesepickles,likemanytsukemono,areextremelysalty,soIlikethembestpairedwithlightlyseasoneddishesorgrains.

Ingredients1cup(250g)miso

1/4cup(60ml)mirin

3clovesofgarlic,finelyminced

1inch(2.5cm)ofginger,peeledandfinelyminced

Afewfinegrindsofpepper

Inasmallbowl,combinealltheingredients.Packintoa2-to3-cup(475to710ml),food-safe,glasscontainerwithatight-fittinglidandthenaddthevegetables(seeRecipeNotesfordetails).

Forbestresults,storeintherefrigeratorwhennotinuseorwhenculturingforlongerperiods.

Yield:2to3cups(450to680g)

•Vegetableoptionsarebasicallyunlimited.Ifyouusevegetableswithahigherwatercontent,youwill“age”yourbedmorequickly,meaningthatitwon’tbearoundforasmanybatches,butamisodokoiseasytomake,andcucumber,bellpeppers,andleavesofallsortsarefunmisozuke,sotrythemall!

•Whitemisoisfermentedfortheshortesttimeofthecommonmisos,soitwillbetheleastsaltyandthesweetest.Redmisowillbethemostflavorfulandsaltiestoption.Experimenttofindyourfavoritecombination.

favoritecombination.

•Thiscanbeaverylongorshortprocess.I’veagedsomevegetables(MisoSunchokes,page190)forlongerthan6monthsanddoneothersforaslittleasanhourortwo.Shorterperiodsyieldslightlysaltyandlightlyflavoredvegetables,whilelongerperiodsresultinvegetablesthataredramaticallyalteredincolorandtexture.There’snoreasonnottotasteapieceortwoeverydaytoseewhereyourpreferenceslie.

•It’sokaytopeelyourvegetables!Themicrobesthatwillbeculturingyourvegetablescomefromthemiso,notfromthevegetables,whichmeansyou’refreetoremovethepeelofanyvegetableyouputintothebed.

•Rinsingafterremovingthevegetablesfromthebedistraditionalbutnotrequired.Itwillremoveanyextramisobitsandmakethepicklesslightlylesssalty.

•Overtimeandseveralbatches,thebedwillgetwateryfromallthevegetablesyou’reputtingin.Onceitistrulywet,muchoftheflavorwillbegone,soitmaybetimetoamakeanewbedandtoaddthatmisodokotoagiantbatchofsoup.

•Onceyou’veremovedyourvegetables,eitherreuseyourmisobedimmediatelywithfreshvegetablesorcoverandputitintherefrigeratoruntilyou’rereadytouseitagain.

MISORHUBARBIespeciallyenjoyhighacidvegetablespickledinmiso.Thesaltinessofthemisoisbalancedbytheacidityoftherhubarb,andtherhubarbitselfistransformedandbarelyrecognizableafterevenafewdaysinthemisodoko.Vegetablesshrinksignificantlyduringtheirculturingperiodduetothehighsaltcontentofmiso,soitcanbetrickytofishthemalloutoftheircomfypicklingplace.InherexcellentbookAsianPickles,KarenSolomonrecommendsusingcheeseclothtoavoidlosinganysavorybites.Idon’tminddiggingtofindtheoccasional,extra-agedsurprise,butSolomon’smethoddoesreducetheamountofmisobedlostduringtheremovalofthevegetables.

1misodoko(page189)

2stalksofrhubarb,choppedinto1-inch(2.5cm)pieces

Placehalfofyourmisomixtureintothecontainerandtopwithalayerofcheesecloth.Placetherhubarbonthecheeseclothandthenplaceanotherlayerofcheeseclothonthevegetables.Packtheremainingmisomixtureontopofthetopcheesecloth,allowingtheendsoftheclothtoprotrudefromthecontainerforeasylifting.Packthemisodownwithawoodenspoonandputthelidonthecontainer.Movetotherefrigeratororleaveatroomtemperature.

Allowtoculturefor1week.Pullupthesidesofthecheeseclothtorevealtheculturedrhubarbbeneath.Diceanduseasasalty,tangyseasoning.

Yield:3/4cup(170g)

MISOSUNCHOKESSunchokesareoneofmyfavoritevegetablestoputintothemisobedforseveralreasons.First,Icanbealittlelazywithmybed,andsometimesImissavegetableortwowhenI’mdiggingthroughwithmyfork.Withsunchokes,itdoesn’tmatteratall.I’vehadastrayslicesitinthebedinthebackofthefridgeformonthsandmonthsandwhenIfinallydugitout,itwasperfectlycrispy,salty,andreadytobeeaten.Thereisalsosomethingsounexpectedlylovelyaboutthecomplexumamiofthemisobedandthelightartichokeflavorofthesunchoke.

1/2cup(75g)slicedsunchoke1misodoko(page189)

Burythesunchokeslicesinthemisobed.Pressdownabittopackthebed.(OruseKarenSoloman’smisomethodoutlinedintheMisoRhubarbrecipe).Coverthecontainerandmovetothefridge.Allowtofermentfor1to6months.Thesunchokeshouldbecrispbutalmosttranslucent,likeawaterchestnut.Rinseandenjoy.

Yield:1/2cup(115g)

BUILDINGANUKADOKOEverynukadokoseemstohaveitsownsignatureflavors.Somearemoresourthanothers,andsomearesmokyormeaty.Eveninmyownhome,I’veneverbuilttwothatproducethesameflavors.Evenifyourlifestylewon’tallowforthenecessarylong-termmaintenance,trymakingoneandmaintainingitaslongasyoucan.Thesepicklesareworththework.Feedingthebedvegetablescrapsinoculatesitwithlacticacidbacteriaandhintsofflavor.

Ingredients1pound(450g)ricebran

4piecesofkombu,cutintosmallstrips

2clovesofgarlic,minced

1inch(2.5cm)ofginger,minced

1tablespoon(9g)mustardpowder

1teaspoon(1g)redpepperflakes

11/4cups(300ml)filteredwater1/2cup(120ml)beer

1/2cup(150g)finesalt

1cup(150g)vegetablesscrapsperweek

Inyourlargestskilletandworkinginbatches,toastthericebranovermediumheat,makingsurethebranlayerisnomorethan3/4inch(2cm)deep.Stirconstantlyuntilitdarkensslightlyandbecomesveryfragrant,likefreshlybakedcookies,about2minutes.Ifitstartstosmelllikepopcorn,removefromheat,stirvigorously,andturntheheatdownabit.Letitcool.

Ina1/2-gallon(2L)orslightlylargercontainer,stirtogetherthecooledricebran,kombu,garlic,ginger,mustardpowder,andredpepperflakes,distributingtheseasoningsthroughoutthebran.

Combinethewater,beer,andsaltandstiruntilsaltisdissolved.Pourtheliquidintothericebran.Stiruntilathickpasteforms.Ifthebedistoodrytostirwithreasonableease,addmorewater,1tablespoon(15ml)atatime,untilthemixtureisjustflexibleenoughtoallowyoutoeasilyburyandfindvegetablepieces.

pieces.

Addvegetablescrapsintothebedandstirtodistribute.Stiryourbeddaily.Onceaweek,removeasmanyvegetablescrapsaspossibleanddiscardthem,returningbackasmuchricebranmixturefromthescrapsasyoucan.Duetothehighsaltcontentofthebed,thevegetablescrapswillshrinksignificantlyduringthisprimingperiod.Onceyou’veremovedthem,addafreshbatchofvegetablescraps.Repeatfor4to6weeksuntilthesmellofthebedispleasantlysour.SeeNuka-CukesandRadishes(page192)forproceedingwithmakingpickles.

Althoughyou’llbereturningasmuchbranmixtureaspossibletoyourvessel,eachtimeyouremovepickles,you’llbelosingalittlebitofvolume,aswellassaltandflavorthatare,asintended,suckedintothevegetables.Withdailyuse,youmayneedtoreplenishthebedbyaddingsalt,toastedbran,water,andseasoningsasfrequentlyasonceamonth.

Yield:1/2gallon(1.9L)Goodcandidatesforvegetablescrapsincludeturnipandradishpeelsandthehardouterleavesandcoresofcauliflower,broccoli,andcabbage.Avoidmembersoftheonionfamily,sincelargeramountswillimparttoomuchflavor,andbeawarethatcarrotsandbeetscanleachcolorintothebed.

⊲NUKACUKESANDRADISHESOnceyou’veestablishedyournuka-bed,thehardpartisover.Theprocessofactuallymakingnukazuke(nukapickles)issimpleandveryflexible.Justaboutanyvegetablewillwork,butnukacukesareparticularfavorites.Foraquickpickle,Islicethemonthebiasinto1-inchchunksandletthemcultureforanhourtoaday.WhenI’mfeelingmorepatient,Ipushtheminwhole,addabunchofradishes,andwaitaweek,asoutlinedbelow.

Ingredients1Englishcucumber

1bunchofradishes,greensremoved

1nukadoko(page191)

Withverycleanhands,pushthecucumberandradishesintothenukadokountiltheyarefullysubmergedandlightlypressdownonthetopofthericebrantomakesurethevegetablesareallpackedin.

After5to7days,removethe(nowwilted)vegetablesandscrapeanyremainingricebranmixturebackintothebed.Usethepickleswithinafewhours.

Stirtheemptybedandaddfreshvegetablesforpickling.Ifyoudon’twanttostartthepicklingprocessagainimmediately,besuretostirtheemptybedatleastonceadayuntilyouaddfreshvegetables.

Yield:1to2cups(225to450g)

GarlicHoneyat4days(left)and3months(right).

⊲GARLICHONEYWhenIwasakid,mymomskippedthecoughsyrupinfavorofahomemaderemedyofhoney,adroportwoofwhiskey,andlemon.I’msurethismixturewouldbefrownedupontoday,butitwastastyanditdidcalmmynighttimecoughs.Thisrecipe,adaptedfromIkukoHisamatsu’sbookQuick&EasyTsukemono,ismyanswertomymom’soldremedy.Thisisalongfermentandtheonlyyeastfermentinthisbook.

Ingredients5bulbsofgarlic,peeledandseparatedintocloves

10ounces(280g)rawhoney

Placethegarlicclovesinapint(500ml)jar,fillingto11/2inches(4cm)belowtherim,andaddthehoney.Somerawhoneyismoresolidthanliquid,soyoumayneedtoaddsmallamountsandallowittimetoseepintothejarbeforeaddingmore.Stirandcoverwithlid.Stirdailyforafewweekstosubmergegarlicandstirinanyhoneydepositsatthebottomofthejarbeforeaddingmore.Asfermentationprogresses,thehoneywillbubbleandthegarlicwillreleaseitswater,makingthehoneymoreliquidandtheclovesshrunkenandbrown.Oncethecontentsareinthisstate,reducestirringtoevery3to4days.

After3monthsoffermentation,youmaystarttotake1tablespoon(15g)ofhoneyoracloveofgarlic,asneeded,asacurative.Storeintherefrigerator.

Yield:1pint(500ml)

Thisrecipeisessentiallyakindofgarlicmead,whichmeansitisnotmadeforitsprobiotics.GettingthepHlowenoughandthealcoholhighenoughforoptimalsafetywilltakequiteabitlongerthanitdoesinlacticacidfermentation.ThisrecipeshouldideallybepHtestedbeforeconsuming.OncethepHhasreachedsafelevels(4.0orbelow),movetothefridgeforstorage.

IndianSunPicklesUnderstandingwhythesepicklesworkrequiresunderstandingafewspecificsofvegetablefermentation.Lacticacidbacteriaarefacultativeanaerobes,whichmeansthattheygenerallydotheirconvertingworkinanoxygen-freeenvironment,buttheycanswitchgearsandkeepontruckin’ifoxygenispresent.

Becauseoftheunorthodoxmethodologyusedtomakethesepickles,youshouldnotvarysaltorlemonjuicelevelsasyouwouldinotherrecipes.RestassuredthatthereisalongtraditionofthiskindofpickleinIndia,inthehotsun,andyoucanalwaysmeasurepHtobesafe.

Notethatthesearen’ttheeasiestpicklestomake.Theyrequireseveralstepsandabitofattention,buttheykeepinthefridgeforagoodlongwhile(ayearormore)andtheirflavorsmakethemwellworththeextrabitofeffort.Iftheflavorsgettoohotorintense,tryblendingasmallamountandusingitasaspreadforidli,dosai,oranyotherfermentedIndianbread.

⊲HARIMIRCHACHAAR(INDIANHOTPEPPERPICKLE)Ifyoucan’tfindtheslender,greenHariMirchpeppers,cayenneoranyotherslimandspicypepperwilldothetrick.Thesepicklesaretraditionallymadeinthesummerwhenbrightsunshinewillheatthingsupfast,butIsometimescheatanddotheminmykitchen,completelyindoors.

Ingredients1/2cup(88g)mustardseeds

1/2teaspoon(1g)nigellaseedsorblackcumin(shahjeera)seeds5wholeblackpeppercorns

1/2teaspoon(1g)fennelseeds1teaspoon(3g)fenugreekseeds

11/2tablespoons(27g)koshersalt1tablespoon(7g)turmericpowder

1pound(450g)chilipeppers(about50),washed,capsremoved,andchoppedinto1-inch(2.5cm)pieces5tablespoons(75ml)freshlemonjuice

1cup(235ml)mustardoil

Grindthewholeseedspicesintopowderinaspicegrinderandcombinewiththesaltandturmericpowder.

Placethepepperpiecesintoaquart(1L)jarandaddthespicepowder.Mixthoroughlyorputalidonitandshaketodistributethespicepowder.Pressthepeppersbackdownsotheyaremostlycoveredinthespicepowder.

Placethelidonthejar,butleaveitjustlooseenoughtoletCO2escape.Placeyourjaroutsideinasunnyspot.Bringitinatnightandputitbackoutthenextmorning.Repeatforatotalof3days,stirringthoroughlyeachnightwhenyoubringitin.

Thenightofthethirdday,addthelemonjuice.Stirorshakeverywell.

Putitbackoutsidefor2moredays,bringitin,andshake/stirwelleachnight.

Attheendofthelastnight,bringyoursunpickleinsideforgood.Heatthe

Attheendofthelastnight,bringyoursunpickleinsideforgood.Heatthemustardoilinasaucepanoverhighheatfor5minutes,untilsmoking.Removefromtheheat,letitcooltoroomtemperature,andthenpouroveryourveggie/spicemix.Stirwell.Useaspatulaorspoontoscrapeexcessspicemixturefromthesidesdownintothejar.

Letitsitovernight,insideatroomtemperature,andstarttasting3dayslater.Theoilshouldn’tsmell“oily”whenthesearereadytoeat;itshouldbeinfusedwiththeflavorsofthespicesandpeppers.Itmayuptoaweekfortheflavorstofullyinfuse.

Oncethey’reinfused,storeintherefrigerator.

Yield:1quart(900g)

Heatingthemustardoilcancausecoughing.Openwindows,turnontheventfan,andbepreparedtoleavethekitchenifyoufeelyourthroattickleoryoureyeswater.

CARROTCARDAMOMSUNPICKLEThisisforthecardamomlovers.UnlikewiththesimplelactopicklesinearlierchaptersthatIeatbythehandful,Ireservethesepicklesexclusivelyforseasoning.Thespicesareintenseandtheykeepforalongtimeinthefridge,soIlovepuréeingsmallamountsofthispickleandthrowingitinthepantocookwithonionsorcauliflower.

Ingredients1tablespoon(6g)cardamomseeds

2tablespoons(12g)cuminseeds

1tablespoon(5g)blackpeppercorns

1tablespoon(11g)mustardseeds

11/2tablespoons(27g)koshersalt2cups(244g)1-inch(2.5cm)carrotpieces(4to5carrots)

3tablespoons(45ml)freshlemonjuice

1tablespoon(8g)turmericpowder

1cup(235ml)mustardoil

Grindthewholespicesintoapowderinacoffeeorspicegrinderandmixthoroughlywiththesalt.

Placethecarrotsintoaquart(1L)jarandaddthepowderedspices.Placealidonthejarandshakewell.Pushthecarrotsdownsothattheyarecoveredinspices.

Replacethelid,butleaveitlooseenoughtoletCO2escape,andplaceyourjaroutsideinasunnyspot.Bringitinsideatnightandputitbackoutthenextmorning.Repeatforatotalof3days,stirringthoroughlyeachnightwhenyoubringitin.

Thenightofthethirdday,addthefreshlemonjuiceandturmericpowder.Stirorshakeverywell.

Putitbackoutsidefor2moredays,bringitin,andshake/stirwelleachnight.

Attheendofthesecondnight,bringyoursunpickleinsideforgood.Heatthe

Attheendofthesecondnight,bringyoursunpickleinsideforgood.Heatthemustardoilinasaucepanoverhighheatforapproximately5minutes.Removefromtheheat,letitcooltoroomtemperature,andpouroveryourveggie/spicemix.Stirwell.

Letitsitovernight,inside,atroomtemperatureandstarttasting1daylater.Theoilshouldn’tsmell“oily”whenthesearereadytoeat;itshouldbeinfusedwiththeflavorsofthespices.Itmaytakeupto3daysonthecountertofullyinfuse.

Oncethey’reready,useaspatulaorspoontoscrapeexcessspicemixturefromthesidesdownintothejarandstiragain.Storeintherefrigerator.

Yield:1quart(900g)

Resources

IngredientsAmazonwww.amazon.comRicebran(donotbuy“stabilized”),spices,specialtyingredientsH-Martwww.hmart.comGochugaru,otherkimchiingredientsKalustyan’swww.kalustyans.comSpices,mustardoil

MountainRoseHerbswww.mountainroseherbs.comSpices

PureFormulaswww.pureformulas.comRicebran(donotbuy“stabilized”)WorldSpiceMerchantswww.worldspice.comSpicesandspiceblends

VesselsandEquipmentFante’swww.fantes.comFidoandLeParfait,European-style,gasket-sealingjarsinavarietyofsizesFillmoreContainerwww.fillmorecontainer.comJarsofallsortsandreCAPlids

MidwestSupplieswww.midwestsupplies.comPHstrips,airlocksandbungs,food-gradeplasticbucketsMikiPalchickwww.mikipalchick.comHandmadewater-sealingcrocks

Handmadewater-sealingcrocks

OguskyCeramicswww.claycrocks.comHandcrafted,opencrocks

OhioStonewarewww.ohiocaststone.comOpencrocksinawidevarietyofsizesPotterybySandyDerwww.etsy.com/shop/PotteryBySandyDerPicklingweights

SarahKerstensarahkersten.com/fermentationjarHandmade,water-sealing,11/2-gallon(5.7L)crocksStoneCreekTradingwww.stonecreektrading.comEuropeanwater-sealingcrocksinavarietyofsizes,krautshreddersandpoundersTamarackStonewarewww.etsy.com/shop/TamarackStonewarePicklingweights

FermentationInformation(see“Bibliography”forfurtherreading)

CulturesforHealthBlogandNewsletterblog.culturesforhealth.com

NordicFoodLabwww.nordicfoodlab.org

Phickle(mywebsite)www.phickle.com

PickleBibliographyfbns.ncsu.edu/USDAARS/html/Fflbiblio1.htm

WildFermentationwww.wildfermentation.com

Appendix

SaltChartHowyousaltyourfermentsisamatteroftaste.Weighingismoreaccurate,butofcourse,yoursaltpreferencesmaychangefromonevegetabletothenext,andallsaltsarenotequallysalty.

Arangesomewherebetween2and5percentsaltbyweightisgenerallyusedfordirectlysaltingvegetables,andarangeof4to6percentiscommonforsaltbrines.Inpractice,therangefordirectsaltingcanvarywidely,fromnosaltatallto8percent(inedible,bymoststandards)forcaseswherepreservationisamatterofsurvivalovertaste.APPROXIMATEWEIGHTS/VOLUMEEQUIVALENTSOFDIFFERENTSALTTYPES

Measurement 1teaspoon 1tablespoon

Fine(Table)(g) 5to6 16to17

Fine(HigherMineral)(g) 7to8 21to23

Coarse(g) 6to7 17to20

Kosher(g) 6to7 17to19

Rock(g) 7to8 21to23

Flake(g) 3to4 12to13

APPROXIMATEDIRECTSALTPERCENTAGEBYVOLUMEANDWEIGHT

WeightofVegetable 1pound 1kilogram

2percent 1to2teaspoons(9g) 20g

2.5percent 11/2to2teaspoons(11g) 25g

2teaspoons(13.5g) 30g

3percent 2teaspoons(13.5g) 30g

4percent 1tablespoon(18g) 40g

5percent4teaspoons(22g)

Multiplythegramweightofyourvegetablebythepercentageyouwant.So450g(1pound)ofcabbageat2percentwouldbe450×0.02=9gsalt.APPROXIMATEBRINESALTPERCENTAGEBYVOLUMEANDWEIGHT

Water 1cup(235ml) 1liter

4percent 1to2teaspoons(9g) 20g

5percent 11/2to2teaspoons(12g) 25g

6percent 2teaspoons(14g) 30g

7percent 1tablespoon(16g) 40g

Multiplymillilitersofwaterbythebrinepercentageyouwant.So235ml(1cup)ofwaterat4percentwouldbe235×0.04=9gsalt.

BibliographyAndoh,Elizabeth,andLeighBeisch.Kansha:CelebratingJapan’sVegan&VegetarianTraditions.Berkeley,CA:TenSpeedPress,2010.

Breidt,F.,R.F.McFeeters,I.M.Pérez-Díaz,andC.Lee.“FermentedVegetables.”InFoodMicrobiology:FundamentalsandFrontiers,4thed.,editedbyM.P.DoyleandR.L.Buchanan,841–55.Washington,DC:ASMPress,2013.

Breidt,F.,E.Medina-Pradas,D.Wafa,etal.“CharacterizationofCucumberFermentationSpoilageBacteriabyEnrichmentCultureand16SrDNACloning.”JournalofFoodScience78,no.3(2013):M470–76.

Byers,Branden.TheEverydayFermentationHandbook:AReal-LifeGuidetoFermentingFood—WithoutLosingYourMindorYourMicrobes.Cincinnati,OH:F+WMedia,2014.

Chun,Lauryn,andOlgaMassov.TheKimchiCookbook:60TraditionalandModernWaystoMakeandEatKimchi.Berkeley,CA:TenSpeedPress,2012.

Etchells,J.L.“IncidenceofYeastsinCucumberFermentations.”FoodResearch6,no.1(1941):95–104.

Hisamatsu,Ikuko.Quick&EasyTsukemono:JapanesePicklingRecipes.Tokyo:JapanPublicationsTradingCo.,Inc,2005.

Johanningsmeier,S.D.,andR.F.McFeeters.“MetabolismofLacticAcidinFermentedCucumbersbyLactobacillusbuchneriandRelatedSpecies:PotentialSpoilageOrganismsinReducedSaltFermentations.”FoodMicrobiology35,no.2(2013):129–35.

Katz,SandorEllix.TheArtofFermentation:AnIn-DepthExplorationofEssentialConceptsandProcessesfromaroundtheWorld.WhiteRiverJunction,VT:ChelseaGreenPublishing,2012.

Katz,SandorEllix.WildFermentation:TheFlavor,Nutrition,andCraftofLive-CultureFoods.WhiteRiverJunction,VT:ChelseaGreenPublishing,2003.

Lewin,Alex.RealFoodFermentation:PreservingWholeFreshFoodwithLiveCulturesinYourHomeKitchen.Beverly,MA:QuarryBooks,2012.

Moyer,MelindaWenner.“It’sTimetoEndtheWaronSalt.”ScientificAmerican.July8,2011.www.scientificamerican.com/article/its-time-to-end-the-war-on-salt

Rao,M.S.,J.Pintado,W.F.Stevens,andJ.P.Guyot.“KineticGrowthParametersofDifferentAmylolyticandNon-amylolyticLactobacillusStrainsUnderVariousSaltandpHConditions.”BioresourceTechnology94,no.3(2004):331–7.

Solomon,Karen.AsianPickles:Sweet,Sour,Salty,Cured,andFermentedPreservesfromJapan,Korea,China,India,andBeyond.Berkeley,CA:TenSpeedPress,2014.

VegRecipesofIndia.Blog.www.vegrecipesofindia.com/green-chilli-pickle-recipe-hari-mirch-ka-achaar

Veldhuis,M.K.,J.L.Etchells,I.D.Jones,andO.Veerhoff.“NotesonCucumberSalting.”TheFruitProductsJournal20,no.11(1941):341–2.

Vongerichten,Marja.TheKimchiChronicles:KoreanCookingforanAmericanKitchen.NewYork:RodaleBooks,2011.

AcknowledgmentsItisn’tatallmelodramatictosaythatthisbookwouldnothavebeenpossiblewithoutthehelp,love,andsupportofsomany.Ihavenodoubtthatthisthankyoulistisincomplete.Toallwhohelped,whotestedrecipes,wholearnedthebasicsoffermentationjustforme,youhavemyeternalgratitude.Thankyouforstinkingupyourhomes!

Tomyagent,ClarePellino,Iwouldnothavewrittenthisbookwithoutyourencouragement.ThankyoufortheproddingandsupportIneededtoundertakethisprojectandforyourmadnegotiationskills.

Tomyeditor,AmandaWaddell,thankyousomuchfortheopportunitytowritethisbook!IamsogratefulthatIhadthechancetoworkwithyouandforallthethought,care,andeffortyouputintothisbook.Youradvocacytookthisbooktothenextlevel.

RenaeHaines,theprojectmasteroftheuniverse,thankyouforwranglingallthedetails,patientlyansweringmynoobquestions,andpullingthingstogetherwithspeedandpanache.

HeatherGodin,thankyouforyourartdirection,flexibility,andthetirelessworkthatyoudidtomakethisbookintoavisuallycohesiveandlovelydocumentofthesefoods.

KarenLevy,thanksfordoingthedetailedworkofcopy-editing.NomatterhowmanytimesIreadthismanuscript,Iwouldneverhavecaughtthemanytypos,omissions,andwonkybitsthatyoudid.

CourtneyApple,Iadorethephotosyoutook,andIwillalwaysbeimpressedthatyouwereabletomakemyfermentedfoodslookbothexactlyastheydidandluminouslybeautiful.Yourphotosmakethisbookspecial.

BarbaraBotting,youhaveanamazingtalent.Iamsogratefulforthewonderfulworkyoudidstylingthesephotos.Veryfewpeoplecanmakethingslookeffortlesslygorgeousthewayyoudo.

Dr.FredBreidt,thankyouforyourpatienceandforbeingsuchawillingandablepublicservant.Yourdecadesoftirelessresearchareappreciatedbymeandbysomanyotherfermentersaroundtheglobe.Foranyerrorsofinterpretation,Iamsorry.Foralltheknowledgeyouimparted,thankyou.

ToCarlyDoughertyofFood&Ferments,thankyouforbeingmyPhillyfermentationcompatriotandforgivingofyourlimitedentrepreneur’stimeso

freely.I’msogratefultoyouandDaveformakingagreatproductthatIcanproudlytellotherstobuy.

ToJeremyOgusky,thankyouforthetimeyouspentinterviewingwithmeand,ofcourse,forthelovelycrock.Itwillsitinaproudplaceonmytable,andIpromisetokeepitfilledwithbubblingthingswheneverpossible.Nextstop:FermentationNation!

ToSandorKatz,forbeingaperpetualsourceofinspirationthroughyourteachingandwriting.

ToWillStallwood,ofCipherPrime,foryourextremelyhelpfulfeedback.Youreyeisunparalleledandyourdesignguidanceultimatelyhelpedtomakethisbookbeautiful.

TothegentlemenofFlyclops:Jake,Parker,Dave,Jay,andJosh,yourextremeflexibilityallowedmethetimeandenergytocompletethisbook,andIwillbeforevergrateful.Thankyouforyourinterestandinvolvementandforyourvaluablefeedbackthroughouttheprocess.

TomyPhillyfoodladies(AlexisSiemons,AllysonKramer,JoleneHart,JoyManning,MarisaMcClellan,RobinShreeves,andTenayaDarlington),thankyousomuchforyourendlesssupport,encouragement,advice,andforcalmingmyfearswhenthatchamomileteajustwasn’tcuttingit!Youareallbrilliant,thoughtful,kind,andgiving,andIamsogratefulforourlittlecommunity.

ToCoreyandTashaFloydforhelpingmemakethefermentsforthephotoshoot.Idon’tknowhowIthoughtIcouldgetthatworkdonewithoutyou.Icouldnothave,anditwouldhavebeendisastrous.

Tomyparents,NancyandWaltFeifer,thankyouforraisingmetobeindependentandtopursuemyownpath,evenifithassometimesmeantthatIstressedyououtbyabandoninglucrative,corporategigsinfavoroftheunknown.

ToJakeO’Brien,mybeloved,yoursupport,kindness,hand-holding,love,understanding,anddishwashingabilitiesareunparalleled.TherearesomanythingsinmylifeIcouldnotandcannotdowithoutyou.Thiswasjustoneofthose.Thankyouforbeingbymysideinallthings.

Andfinally,tothePhicklereaders,withoutyou,Iwouldneverhavecontinuedpursuingthispassion,teachingclasses,andwritingaboutfermentation.Thesethingsmakemehappyandfulfilled,andI’meternallygratefultoyouforreadingandfermentingalongwithme.

AbouttheAuthorAmandaFeiferwritesaboutfoodfermentationofallkindsonherblog,phickle.com.Whenshe’snotconcoctingcrazyvatsofbubblythingsinthekitchenorrantingagainsttheuseofanti-bacterialsoaps,she’sdoingwhatshelovesmost:teachingpeopletomaketheirownfermentedfoods,whetherit’skimchi,koji,kefir,orkombucha.ShelivesinSouthPhillywithherhusband,Jake,andtheirrambunctiouspitbullpup,Laika.

Indexairlocks,28,145alcoholcontent,35AmericanSeoulKimchi,110apples.SeeKimchi-BraisedCauliflowerandApples,106ArtofFermentation,The(SandorElixKatz),150arugula.SeeCollardWraps,167Asianpears.SeeNabakKimchi,121AsianPickles(KarenSolomon),190AsparagusPickles,57Ava’sHotPinkKraut,78avocados.SeeCollardWraps,167

bacteriabotulism,13,14,34,42bubblingand,33cannedvegetablesand,35,42choppingand,40cleanlinessand,29cookingand,34harvestand,10healthand,11peelsand,15probiotics,11safetyof,12,14–15,34saltand,18,20sedimentand,31submersionand,24temperatureand,28,33,34,41washingand,15wildfermentationand,14

BalancedBrothBroth-PickledKohlrabi,184recipe,184

BánhMìPickles,51beetsBalancedBroth,184Bull’s-EyeBeetKvass,148CeleriacBeetKraut,179ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82CuminBasilBeets,46DillyRootKraut,85EarlGreyFennelBeets,181GingerBeetKraut,91Kahmyeastand,145RandomPickleGenerator,48RedBeetKvass,144

bellpeppersAmericanSeoulKimchi,110ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82CollardWraps,167MediterraneanKraut,87PintofPickledPeppers,59RandomPickleGenerator,48Raw-Tatouille,54SauerkrautSatay,90SauerkrautSlaw,83VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113

Bittman,Mark,62Bois,Alex,88botulism,13,14,34,42Breidt,Fred,13brinecloudinessof,29,31herbsfor,46saltingcomparedto,17sedimentin,29,31spicesfor,46storage,21

broccoli.SeeNukadoko,191

brothBalancedBroth,184Broth-PickledKohlrabi,184

brusselssproutsChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82NuttyBrusselsSproutPickles,62RandomPickleGenerator,48

bubbles,29,33,74Bull’s-EyeBeetKvass,148

cabbageAmericanSeoulKimchi,110Ava’sHotPinkKraut,78CabbageKvass,150CarrotCakeKraut,98CeleriacBeetKraut,179ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82CrockKimchi,170–171cutting,72–73DillyRootKraut,85EverydayBaechuKimchi,104–105GingerBeetKraut,91HalfHeadKimchi,108–109Heat-Lover’sKraut,84KrautytheVampireSlayer,81less-than-perfectleaves,73,75massaging,73,91MediterraneanKraut,87MirepoixKraut,95NabakKimchi,121NewWorldRyeKraut,88Nukadoko,191NutsforKraut,89Pesto-Chi,122PreservedLemonGingerKraut,97PumpkinSpiceKimchi,115

Salsa-Chi,124SauerkrautSatay,90SauerkrautSteak,174selectingforkraut,72shelves,75SimplestSauerkraut,76–77StuffingKraut,80SuperSourCitrusKraut,96Thai-Chi,107VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113

cannellinibeans.SeeWhiteBeanSauerkrautDip,179canning,42CarrotCakeKraut,98CarrotCarawayTurnipSlices,56carrotsBalancedBroth,184BánhMìPickles,51CarrotCakeKraut,98CarrotCarawayTurnipSlices,56CarrotCardamomSunPickle,198ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82CucumberKimchi,118MirepoixKraut,95MoroccanCarrotKvass,154NabakKimchi,121PumpkinSpiceKimchi,115RandomPickleGenerator,48Salsa-Chi,124SauerkrautSlaw,83VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113

cashews.SeeNutsforKraut,89cauliflowerCurriedCauliflowerPickles,52CurriedCauliflowerPicnicSalad,52Kimchi-BraisedCauliflowerandApples,106Nukadoko,191

RandomPickleGenerator,48CeleriacBeetKrautrecipe,179WhiteBeanSauerkrautDip,179

celeryCeleryKvass,151CurriedCauliflowerPicnicSalad,52MirepoixKraut,95RandomPickleGenerator,48StuffingKraut,80

celeryrootBalancedBroth,104CeleriacBeetKraut,179

Cheddarcheese.SeeMacandKimcheese,116CheUNoodleBarrestaurant,138Chioggiabeets.SeeBull’s-EyeBeetKvass,148chloramine,17ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82chopping,40,72,102ClassicCukes,162ClassicDillPickleSpearsrecipe,68ThousandIslandDressing,137

CocktailOnionRingsDirtyGibson,66recipe,66ThousandIslandDressing,137

collardleavesCollardWraps,167PumpkinSpiceKimchi,115WholeLeafCollardGreens,164

condimentsEggplantPâté,137HotPepperFlakes,134HotSauce,133ThousandIslandDressing,137

WinterSquashHummus,138cornCornontheCob,173SummerCornSalsa,128

CrockKimchi,170–171crocksagesof,165CeleriacBeetKraut,179ClassicCukes,162ClayCrockswebsite,165cleaning,165CollardWraps,167CornontheCob,173CrockKimchi,170–171eatingfrom,161glaze,165krautand,73opencrocks,158–159saltfor,158SauerkrautSteak,174selecting,158,165storing,161terminology,165transferringtojars,161vitrification,165water-sealedcrocks,158weightsfor,160WholeLeafCollardGreens,164WholeOnions,168

cucumbersblossomends,69ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82ClassicCukes,162ClassicDillPickleSpears,68CucumberFennelKvass,153CucumberKimchi,118

NukaCukesandRadishes,192tipsandtricksfor,69

culturedfermentation,14CuminBasilBeetsrecipe,46ThousandIslandDressing,137

CurriedCauliflowerPicklesCurriedCauliflowerPicnicSalad,52recipe,52

daikonBánhMìPickles,51CrockKimchi,170–171EverydayBaechuKimchi,104–105HalfHeadKimchi,108–109introductionto,103NabakKimchi,121Pesto-Chi,122RadishKimchi,119SenchaDaikonPickles,182Thai-Chi,107VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113

DillyRootKraut,85DirtyGibson,66Dougherty,Carly,145Dougherty,Dave,145

EarlGreyFennelBeets,181eggplantEggplantPâté,137MediterraneanKraut,87Raw-Tatouille,54

eggsCollardWraps,167SauerkrautPickledEggs,92

Englishcucumber

CucumberKimchi,118NukaCukesandRadishes,192

equipment,20–21,23,26–27EverydayBaechuKimchiMacandKimcheese,116recipe,104–105

FAQs,31–36FermentedTomatoSauce,136fetacheese.SeeMediterraneanKraut,87Food&Fermentscompany,145FoolproofRadishandOnionPickles,44

GarlicHoney,194GingerBeetKrautrecipe,91SauerkrautPickledEggs,92

gingerroot.SeeRandomPickleGenerator,48gochugaruCrockKimchi,170–171CucumberKimchi,118EverydayBaechuKimchi,104–105GreenBeanKimchi,125HalfHeadKimchi,108–109introductionto,103NabakKimchi,121PumpkinSpiceKimchi,115RadishKimchi,119ShisoLeafKimchi,111VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113

greenbeansChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82GreenBeanKimchi,125SpicedGreenBeans,181

greencabbageAva’sHotPinkKraut,78

discolorationand,32KrautytheVampireSlayer,81

Gruyèrecheese.SeeMacandKimcheese,116

habaneropeppers.SeeThai-Chi,107hakureiturnips.SeeMintyHakureiTurnips,55HalfHeadKimchi,108–109HariMirchAchaar(IndianHotPepperPickle),197HealingBurdockTurmericPickles,180health,11–12Heat-Lover’sKraut,84herbs,46HighStreetonMarketrestaurant,88Hisamatsu,Ikuko,194honey.SeeGarlicHoney,194hotpeppersAmericanSeoulKimchi,110BánhMìPickles,51CabbageKvass,150ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82HariMirchAchaar(IndianHotPepperPickle),197Heat-Lover’sKraut,84HotPepperFlakes,134HotSauce,133Salsa-Chi,124SauerkrautSteak,174SimpleSalsa,TwoWays,130SummerCornSalsa,128Thai-Chi,107

HotSauceHotPepperFlakes,134recipe,133

HowtoCookEverything(MarkBittman),62

IndianHotPepperPickle,197IndianSunPickles

CarrotCardamomSunPickle,198HariMirchAchaar(IndianHotPepperPickle),197introductionto,196

jalapeñopeppersBánhMìPickles,51Heat-Lover’sKraut,84Salsa-Chi,124SimpleSalsa,TwoWays,130SummerCornSalsa,128

jarscovering,26explosions,149fillcapacity,41,73krautand,73kvassand,142,149lidsfor,23,27selecting,20specialtyfermentationsystemsand,27–28submersionand,26–27weightsand,27venting,143

jicama.SeePickleMyJicama,49

Kahmyeast,145Katz,SandorEllixKatz,150kimchiAmericanSeoulKimchi,110choppingvegetablesfor,102commoningredients,103CrockKimchi,170–171CucumberKimchi,118EverydayBaechuKimchi,104–105glovesfor,102GreenBeanKimchi,125HalfHeadKimchi,108–109

Kimchi-BraisedCauliflowerandApples,106MacandKimcheese,116NabakKimchi,121Pesto-Chi,122PumpkinSpiceKimchi,115RadishKimchi,119ricepaste,106Salsa-Chi,124salting,102ShisoLeafKimchi,111Thai-Chi,107timing,102VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113

kombuNukadoko,191VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113

krautAva’sHotPinkKraut,78bubbling,74cabbageselection,72cabbageshelves,75CarrotCakeKraut,98CeleriacBeetKraut,179ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82cuttingcabbagefor,72–73DillyRootKraut,85fermentationconditions,74GingerBeetKraut,91Heat-Lover’sKraut,84KrautytheVampireSlayer,81MediterraneanKraut,87MirepoixKraut,95NewWorldRyeKraut,88NutsforKraut,89packingcabbagefor,73PreservedLemonGingerKraut,97

SauerkrautPickledEggs,92SauerkrautSatay,90SauerkrautSlaw,83seasoning,73SimplestSauerkraut,76–77StuffingKraut,80SuperSourCitrusKraut,96

KrautytheVampireSlayerrecipe,81SauerkrautSlaw,83

kvassairlocksfor,145Bull’s-EyeBeetKvass,148CabbageKvass,150CeleryKvass,151cloudiness,142CucumberFennelKvass,153jarsfor,142,149Kahmyeast,145LettuceKvass,150MoroccanCarrotKvass,154nameorigin,143RedBeetKvass,144spices,145SunnyHerbKvass,144timing,142,145venting,143,145WinterHerbKvass,147WoodsyGinandTonic,147

lemonsBull’s-EyeBeetKvass,148PreservedLemonGingerKraut,97

lemonjuiceCarrotCardamomSunPickle,198EggplantPâté,137

HariMirchAchaar(IndianHotPepperPickle),197lemonpeelsAsparagusPickles,57CocktailOnionRings,66MoroccanCarrotKvass,154

lemonzestChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82Pesto-Chi,122PintofPickledPeppers,59SnappyPeaPickles,49SuperSourCitrusKraut,96

LettuceKvass,150limeleaves.SeeThai-Chi,107limepeel.SeeMoroccanCarrotKvass,154limezestSalsa-Chi,124SuperSourCitrusKraut,96

macadamianuts.SeeNutsforKraut,89MacandKimcheese,116MediterraneanKraut,87MintyHakureiTurnips,55MirepoixKraut,95Misodokobuilding,189MisoRhubarb,190MisoSunchokes,190

molds,30,31–32MoroccanCarrotKvass,154

NabakKimchi,121napacabbageCrockKimchi,170–171EverydayBaechuKimchi,104–105HalfHeadKimchi,108–109introductionto,103

NabakKimchi,121Pesto-Chi,122Salsa-Chi,124Thai-Chi,107VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113

NetCostMarket,150NewWorldRyeKraut,88no-salt-addedfermentsBalancedBroth,184broth,178Broth-PickledKohlrabi,184CeleriacBeetKraut,179coconutwater,178EarlGreyFennelBeets,181HealingBurdockTurmericPickles,180pHlevels,185safety,185SenchaDaikonPickles,182smellof,185SpicedGreenBeans,181TanninTea,182tea,178WhiteBeanSauerkrautDip,179

NukaCukesandRadishes,192Nukadokobuilding,191NukaCukesandRadishes,192

NutsforKraut,89NuttyBrusselsSproutPickles,62

odor,30,32,185Ogusky,Jeremy,165olives.SeeMediterraneanKraut,87orangepeelCucumberFennelKvass,153MoroccanCarrotKvass,154

orangezest.SeeSuperSourCitrusKraut,96

peanutbutter.SeeSauerkrautSatay,90pecans.SeeCarrotCakeKraut,98peels,51Pesto-Chi,122pHlevelsbotulismand,13crocksand,159eggshellsand,92GarlicHoney,194IndianSunPickles,196moldand,31–32no-salt-addedfermentsand,185readinessand,29,40,159safetyand,13,23,31–32,196testingsupplies,23

picklesAsparagusPickles,57BánhMìPickles,51cannedpickles,42CarrotCardamomSunPickle,198CarrotCarawayTurnipSlices,56ClassicCukes,162ClassicDillPickleSpears,68CocktailOnionRings,66CuminBasilBeets,46CurriedCauliflowerPickles,52CurriedCauliflowerPicnicSalad,52DirtyGibson,66FoolproofRadishandOnionPickles,44HariMirchAchaar(IndianHotPepperPickle),197HealingBurdockTurmericPickles,180IndianSunPickles,196jarvolume,41MintyHakureiTurnips,55

NuttyBrusselsSproutPickles,62PickleMyJicama,49PintofPickledPeppers,59RandomPickleGenerator,48Raw-Tatouille,54RosemaryRutabaga,60RutabagaHorseradishGingerPickles,47SauerkrautPickledEggs,92SenchaDaikonPickles,182SnappyPeaPickles,49softness,63storing,42submersionof,40SweetPotatoFryNests,64–65tanninsfor,160temperaturesand,41–42timing,40WholeOnions,168ZucchiniBreadPickles,63

pistachios.SeeNutsforKraut,89PreservedLemonGingerKraut,97probiotics,shoppingfor,35Puchowitz,Ben,138pumpkin.SeePumpkinSpiceKimchi,115pumpkinseedsNutsforKraut,89WinterSquashHummus,138

Quick&EasyTsukemono(IkukoHisamatsu),194

radishesAmericanSeoulKimchi,110ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82FoolproofRadishandOnionPickles,44NukaCukesandRadishes,192Nukadoko,191

RadishKimchi,119RandomPickleGenerator,48Salsa-Chi,124WinterHerbKvass,147

RadishKimchirecipe,119MacandKimcheese,116

raisinsCarrotCakeKraut,98MoroccanCarrotKvass,154

RandomPickleGenerator,48Raw-Tatouille,54RedBeetKvass,144redcabbageAmericanSeoulKimchi,110Ava’sHotPinkKraut,78CabbageKvass,150DillyRootKraut,85SauerkrautSteak,174

rhubarb.SeeMisoRhubarb,190RosemaryRutabaga,60rutabagaDillyRootKraut,85RosemaryRutabaga,60RutabagaHorseradishGingerPickles,47

safetybotulism,13,14,34,42jarexplosions,149molds,30,31–32no-salt-addedferments,185odor,30,32,185pHlevels,13,23,31–32,196submersiontools,26

salsaSalsa-Chi,124

SimpleSalsa,TwoWays,130SummerCornSalsa,128TomatilloSalsa,131

saltbriningvs.salting,17fermentationand,18kimchiand,102measuring,18,20,158weighing,18,20,158

saltedshrimpCrockKimchi,170–171EverydayBaechuKimchi,104–105introductionto,103

saucesFermentedTomatoSauce,136HotSauce,133

SauerkrautPickledEggs,92SauerkrautSatay,90SauerkrautSlaw,83SauerkrautSteak,174SenchaDaikonPickles,182ShisoLeafKimchi,111SimpleSalsa,TwoWays,130SimplestSauerkraut,76–77snappeasSauerkrautSlaw,83SnappyPeaPickles,49

Solomon,Karen,190SpicedGreenBeans,181spices,46squashRandomPickleGenerator,48Raw-Tatouille,54tipsandtricksfor,69WinterSquashHummus,138

sterility,29

StuffingKraut,80submersionimportanceof,23–24jarsand,26–27rulesof,24,26toolsfor,26–28weightsfor,160

SummerCornSalsa,128summersquashRandomPickleGenerator,48Raw-Tatouille,54tipsandtricksfor,69

sunchokes.SeeMisoSunchokes,190SunnyHerbKvass,144SuperSourCitrusKraut,96SweetPotatoFryNests,64–65

tannins,69,160,178TanninTea,182temperaturebacteriaand,28,33,34,41fermentationand,28,33,34,41–42

ThaichilepeppersSauerkrautSteak,174Thai-Chi,107

ThousandIslandDressingCollardWraps,167recipe,137

TomatilloSalsa,131tomatoesFermentedTomatoSauce,136Salsa-Chi,124SimpleSalsa,TwoWays,130

tomatopaste.SeeSalsa-Chi,124troubleshooting,31–36turnips

CarrotCarawayTurnipSlices,56ChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82MintyHakureiTurnips,55Nukadoko,191

venting,143VeryVegetableVeganKimchi,112–113

WhiteBeanSauerkrautDip,179WholeLeafCollardGreensCollardWraps,167recipe,164

WholeOnions,168wildfermentation,14WinterHerbKvassrecipe,147WoodsyGinandTonic,147

WinterSquashHummus,138WoodsyGinandTonic,147

zucchiniChooseYourOwnAdventureKraut,82RandomPickleGenerator,48Raw-Tatouille,54tipsandtricksfor,69ZucchiniBreadPickles,63

ToJake,ingratitudeforhisfermentyandreallifeloveandsupport.AndforAva,mayshegrowupinaworldfullofbubbly,

probioticacceptance.

Ferment your vegetables : a fun and flavorful guide to making your own pickles, kimchi, kraut

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