Concept of Design

Department of Leather Engineering, KUET, Khulna-9203.

Design

• Design is the human power to conceive, plan & realize products that serve human beings in the accomplishment of any individual or collective purpose.

• According to modern designers,

Design is three dimensional art related to production technology fulfilling human needs, wants & demands.

• Design is the duplication of art through technology.

• “Design is making things right.”

-Ralph Kaplan,

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

• “Design is the glimmer in God’s eye.”

-Anonymous,

• Overall definition,

Design is an operational art having involved in production through technology, management & marketing. Shortly, Design is a specification.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Art

• Art represents the combination of drawing and color, society and nature and finally emotion.

• Art is the representation of a commotion.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Style• Style is the basic, permanent and one of a kind.

• The item which is common in fashion is called style.

• Style is the representation of individualism.

• The particular and distinctive cut or design of article that distinguishes it from any other style.

• A style may come into fashion but that specific style always remains that style

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Fashion

• Fashion is the representation of personality of a human for a particular purpose to enhance or to maintain life style.

• Fashion continuously changing with time.

• Fashion is the style or styles most popular at given time. The term implies three components: style, change & acceptance.

• Many sociologists and anthropologist set that fashion is a circular flow of time.

• Fashion has a slower rise to popularity as a way of dressing at given time, this cycle often relates to a season, whether autumn or spring or summer.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Colour

• Colour represents the whole illusion of fashion shapes, design and materials. All colours are variations of a new basic colours. There are different reflections of colours and that is why we use Colour terms bright, pastels, soft , dark etc.

• Colour is the physiological sense of human being when a light of certain wavelength reaches to the eye.

• Colour is basically two things, an external occurrence and an internal sensation. Colour as external phenomenon is the range of visible light ware coming from a light source or reflecting surface. Colour as internal experience is the range of sensation resulting from visual perception & mental interpretation of the wave that reach the eye.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pattern/Footwear Pattern• Pattern is a flat representation of a three dimensional shape to two dimensional

shape. In case of footwear design & pattern making, a three dimensional foot shape is converted to a two dimensional shape through a masking process, and then we get required footwear pattern and on which desired design is performed.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pattern Making

• Pattern making section shows how a designers ideas are interpreted by the pattern cutter. We know that pattern is a flat representation of 3D shape to 2D shape of foot/last. Pattern making is sequence of operation.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pattern Making Process

The basic four stages of Pattern making process of footwear are as follows:

1. Forme Making

2. Standard Forme/pattern Making

3. Sectional Pattern Making

4. Grading

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Forme Cutting/Making

• The forme is a flat representation of one side of the upper surface of the last.

• It is the basis for the shoe upper pattern.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Different methods of Forme making are-

Methods of Forme making:

• Taped Forme Method• Shell Method• Slotted paper

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

The Taped Forme MethodThe most popular method is the taped forme. It's versatile and can be used with all styles of shoes. Generally masking tape is used.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Shell MethodMade of a stiff plaster of Paris impregnated cloth. A piece of such cloth is cut & soaked in water until softened. In this softened state the piece of cloth is lasted, using tacks around the bottom and up the back of the last. When the fabric has dried on the last it becomes stiff again. Then design on the sell .After cutting we get forme.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Slotted paper

• Using thick paper impression of upper surface of the last is taken.

From the above methods we get the inside & outside formes. From these two formes The Mean forme is produced. It is basically an average of the two formes.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Objectives of Forme making

• To produce ,in two dimensions, a forme of the top surface of the last (which is ,of course, three dimensional) without any undue distortion taking place.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Mean Forme making Sequence through pictures

Pic: Outside Masking Starting (Toe to Heel)

Pic: Inside Masking continues( Toe to Heel)

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: joint Girth wise masking

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: Masking completed

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: Design on Masking Tape

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: Inside & Outside Forme flattening

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: From Inside & Outside Forme , Mean Forme is Prepared

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: A complete sequence of a Mean Forme Making.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Standard Forme Making Sequence

• After Mean Forme making, next step is the Standard making.

• The Standard is the master pattern or blue print for the upper design.

• The standard design gives a master pattern that represents the shape and the basic lines of the footwear model, and they are transposed into a 2D drawing

• From Standard pattern, upper & lining patterns are prepared.

• It also shows the style and design, and gives a breakdown of the upper construction.

• It is also normally a plan of the upper viewed from one side.

• When a whole cut forme has been produced and the design applied on the round.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

A Standard is based on four major items:

The Mean Forme

A Design

Lasting allowance

Stiffener allowance

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Considering facts during Standard Making

• Movement of the upper during lasting & its effects upon the shape and positioning of seams and upper features.

• Foot anatomy: the position of prominent bones and joints.

• Economy of materials: Creating sections which will make efficient use of materials i.e. without excessive material wastage.

• Method of construction: Amounts of allowances to be added.

• Foot entry: is there sufficient opening and adjustment.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

• It is very important that the design standard should have position points,

and the basic lines should be clearly marked.

• These points and basic lines are linked with the anatomy and biomechanics

of the foot, and have to be in view during all the stages of designing and

pattern making process.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: A Standard Forme with dimensions

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: A ready Standard Forme

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: Sequential picture of Standard Making

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: It is also sequential pic of Standard Making

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Sectional Pattern Making

• From the standard pattern, sectional patterns are produced for every part of the upper.

• These are sometimes known as working patterns.

• During cutting the sectional patterns all necessary allowances must be added such as—

~ Folding allowance

~ Underlay allowance

~ Seam allowance

• Stitch marking & pattern engineering should be done on the sectional patterns.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

• It should be noted that sometimes designer may sketch the design on to the covered (e.g. by tape or plastic) last and then cut the upper sections directly from this ,after flattening each individual section separately.

• Allowances are then added as necessary.

• Once a paper pattern is translated into a lasted upper the results can never be predicted with certainty and the designer must be ready to assess and modify if necessary.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: Sectional Pattern Making Process

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: Sectional Pattern Making Process

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: Sectional Pattern Making Process

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: Sectional Patterns

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Grading

This is the process of producing a size range of patterns from the original model (sample) pattern.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Grading Process

• Each of the patterns is increased or decreased in size proportionally to the model size

• All allowances should be kept the same on all sizes. For example, it would be pointless and wasteful to have a wider underlay margin on size 11 than a size 6.

• Grading can be done by hand, machine or by computer aided design (CAD) equipment.

• The increments of the graded patterns should always be checked to ensure

that it has been done correctly.

• Factory trials will normally be carried out on some sizes(e.g.38-39-40-41-42-

43-44) after grading, together with fit and possible wear tests.

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: Sectional Grading PatternsS. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: Upper Sectional Grading Patterns

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Pic: Vamp Grading Patterns

S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

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S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).

Presented by:S. M. Murshidur Rahman

Department of Leather Engineering,Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET), Khulna-9203,

Bangladesh.Email: murshidurkhulnabd@gmail.com

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